From the Sector

The Cellulose Fibres Conference 2025 (CFC 2025), held on 12-13 March in Cologne, Germany, brought together industry leaders, innovators and researchers to explore the latest innovations and new technologies for fibres – in textiles, hygiene products and packaging. The conference has established itself as the leading international platform for the emerging cellulose fibre industry. Two days with high quality program and outstanding speakers highlighted the growing importance of addressing environmental concerns within the textile industry.

The main source for the production of staple fibres or filaments such as viscose, lyocell, modal or other types of new cellulose fibres is wood-based chemical pulp. At the same time, new sources such as agricultural wastes and fibres, paper grade pulp and recycled textiles are emerging on a global scale, with a variety of new sources and companies contributing new technologies, processing methods and ideas.

Biosynthetics, featured for the first time at the conference, drew significant attention. Experts discussed the challenges and opportunities of cellulose fibres and biosynthetics, with particular focus on scalability, biodegradability, and performance comparisons to conventional synthetic fibres from fossil origin.

Dynamic Engagement and Scientific Discourse
The CFC 2025 fostered discussions among attendees, with a strong emphasis on scientific advancements and sustainable practices. Participants actively engaged in sessions covering topics such as circular economy strategies fibre-to-fibre recycling from textile, marine biodegradability versus fibre microplastic formation, alternative feedstocks, and innovative technologies for pulp, fibres, biosynthetics, and yarns.

In order to support the development, innovation and market entry of cellulosic fibres, Dieter Eichinger, CIRFS (BE), presented a proposal for a new standard that includes all types of cellulosic fibres such as Viscose, Lyocell, Tencel, Modal, Cupra and new innovative fibres under the generic term "cellulose fibres". The proposal was widely supported by the participants. Anna Palmberg, IKEA (SE), also expressed a concrete interest in using more cellulose fibres in the future.

The event witnessed heightened activity on social media platforms, with delegates sharing insights, experiences, and key takeaways using the hashtag #CFC2025. This digital engagement extended the conference's reach, allowing a broader audience to participate in the discourse on sustainable textiles.

Innovation Award winner announced
The announcement of the "Cellulose Fibre Innovation of the Year 2025" award winners was undoubtedly one of the highlights of the conference. Sponsored by GIG Karasek, the award recognises groundbreaking developments in the field. Every year, the award recognises the three most promising innovations in the field of cellulose fibres, highlighting groundbreaking advancements and their potential impact. This year, for the first time, the award also offered the opportunity to recognise innovations in the field of biosynthetics. The top three outstanding technologies were honoured this year for their remarkable advancements. These three pioneers will certainly pave ways in the future of the sustainable fibres industry:

1. .SA-Dynamics (Germany): Cellulose Aerogel Textiles
   SA-Dynamics introduced revolutionary insulation materials made from 100% biodegradable cellulose aerogel fibres. These materials combine the flexibility of traditional fabrics with the superior thermal insulation properties of aerogels, offering a sustainable alternative to fossil-based and animal-derived insulation materials in textiles as well as in construction.  
2. Releaf Paper France (France): Releaf Fiber
   Releaf Paper France transforms urban fallen leaves into sustainable cellulose fibres, providing an eco-friendly alternative to traditional hardwood pulp. Their proprietary low-temperature extraction process yields high-quality fibres ideal for packaging materials, aligning with circular economy principles by repurposing urban leaf waste.
3. Uluu (Australia): Seaweed-Derived Biosynthetic Materials
   Uluu is set to replace plastics in textiles with natural PHA polymers, derived from farmed seaweed. In partnership with Deakin University, Uluu is developing textile fibres that perform like synthetic polyester but are biodegradable in various environments, eliminating persistent microplastic pollution in fashion. 

Jens Reinig, currently Senior Vice President (SVP) Finance & Controlling at Freudenberg Performance Materials, has been appointed Chief Financial Officer (CFO) at Freudenberg Performance Materials effective April 1, 2025. He succeeds Marco Altherr, who is leaving the Freudenberg Group at his own request with effect from March 31, 2025, to take on new challenges outside the company.

Jens Reinig joined the Freudenberg Group in 2008 as team leader in Corporate Controlling at Freudenberg Nonwovens, the predecessor organization of Freudenberg Performance Materials. He subsequently held various positions in the company’s Finance & Controlling department. He became SVP Finance & Controlling at Freudenberg Performance Materials in 2020, holding this role until his recent appointment to the management board. Jens Reinig graduated from the University of Mannheim with a degree in business administration.

Effective April 1, 2025, the management board of Freudenberg Performance Materials comprises three members: Dr. Andreas Raps (CEO), Jens Reinig (CFO) and John McNabb (CTO).

Aquafil launched, in Slovenia, the first demonstration plant for the chemical separation of elastic fiber from nylon, an innovative technology to open new perspectives in the textile fiber sector.

“After more than a decade of research and development, Aquafil marks a turning point in the world of textile fibers with the launch of a revolutionary technology: the first demonstration plant for the chemical separation of elastic fiber from nylon. The journey began in 2013, with a joint research project together with Georgia Tech University and the filing of an initial patent. Although industrialization had not materialized, the work of Aquafil researchers never stopped. The perseverance and dedication of the R&D team led, in 2022, to the publication of a new patent, the result of improved technology that was finally ready to be tested on a semi-industrial scale.

Today, thanks to this demo plant, the results of laboratory experiments are confirmed: for the first time, it is possible to effectively separate elastic fiber from nylon in blended fabrics – one of the most difficult challenges in recycling composite materials, particularly those from sportswear and swimwear, among the most problematic wastes in the textile sector. Indeed, the coexistence of different fibers within the same fabric has long been a tremendous obstacle to recycling, condemning tons of potentially recoverable materials to becoming waste”, stated Giulio Bonazzi, Chief Executive Officer.

The goal now is to optimize the process at every stage to define the set-up of a future large-scale industrial plant. Aquafil has activated a network of strategic stakeholders to ensure a steady flow of waste materials and build a solid and efficient supply chain that can feed an increasingly virtuous recycling model.

The nylon recovered through this technology will be entirely destined for the ECONYL® regeneration plant, where it will be processed into new regenerated nylon, ready for new textile applications. This is another step toward reducing dependence on virgin resources and making a concrete contribution to reducing the industry’s environmental impact.
 
The nylon waste is collected in locations all over the world and includes industrial waste but also products – such as fishing nets and rugs – that have reached the end of their useful life. Such waste is processed to obtain a raw material – caprolactam – with the same chemical and performance characteristics as those from fossil sources. The polymers produced from ECONYL® caprolactam are distributed to the Group’s production plants, where they are transformed into yarn for rugs carpet flooring and for clothing.

The statement in full:

EDANA, the leading global association representing the nonwovens and related industries, acknowledges the European Commission’s potential decision to implement countermeasures in response to the recently imposed US tariffs on EU steel, aluminium, and certain derived products. As the voice of over 250 companies in the nonwovens supply chain, we are closely monitoring the implications of these measures and their potential impact on our members.

Nonwovens are innovative, high-tech, engineered fabrics made from fibres. They are used in a wide range of consumer and industrial products either in combination with other materials or alone. They provide essential materials for hygiene products, medical applications, filtration, construction, and automotive industries. They are critical in ensuring public health, safety, and industrial efficiency, with applications ranging from surgical masks and wound dressings to baby diapers, disinfectant wipes, and high-performance insulation.

While we welcome the intention to safeguard the interests of EU industries affected by the US tariffs, EDANA joins those already raising significant concerns about the potential unintended consequences of these countermeasures on our sector.

The EU’s relationship with the US is of critical importance, and we believe the primary focus should be on negotiations to reach a mutually beneficial resolution. It is essential to avoid escalating trade tensions that could result in long-term harm to industries on both sides of the Atlantic.

Negative effect on key raw materials
A particular area of concern is the potential effect of these countermeasures on critical raw materials, such as fluff pulp. Fluff pulp, or pulp-based fibres, are a natural raw material used in the absorbent core of absorbent hygiene products, this is due to their high absorbency rate. Baby nappies, menstrual products, and incontinence products all rely on fluff pulp to absorb and retain human fluids. In 2024, the US provided more than 80% of the fluff pulp imported into the European Union.

This is just one example of the broader impact these countermeasures could have on the industry. These measures could lead to increased production costs, higher finished product prices, supply chain disruptions, and a competitive disadvantage for European nonwoven manufacturers in global markets.

Conclusion
It is important to highlight that these proposed measures risk being unfair, as they will disproportionately impact the more vulnerable members of our society, including the elderly, hospitalised individuals, young families with children, and women. Any regulatory changes should carefully consider their social implications to avoid exacerbating inequalities.

Considering these concerns, EDANA urges the European Commission to carefully assess the economic impact on downstream industries, ensuring that countermeasures do not disproportionately impact sectors dependent on essential imported raw materials. We welcome the opportunity to contribute to the ongoing consultation process and strongly advocate for a balanced approach that safeguards European industry while maintaining fair and open trade relations with the US.

The European Commission has the opportunity to prevent a harmful cycle of retaliatory tariffs that could have a net negative effect on both economies.

Increasingly weaker demand from key sales markets over the course of 2024 is slowing SGL Carbon's sales and earnings growth. Group sales in 2024 amounted to €1,026.4 million, down slightly by 5.8% on the prior-year level (2023: €1,089.1 million). The group's adjusted EBITDA decreased by 3.3% to €162.9 million (2023: €168.4 million).

Despite the slight decline in sales, the adjusted EBITDA margin improved from 15.5 % in the previous year to 15.9 % in 2024. This is mainly due to positive price and product mix effects.

Declining demand from the key semiconductor and automotive markets, coupled with persistently unsatisfactory demand from the wind industry, led to a decrease in volume and sales in three of four business units. Only Process Technology was able to improve its sales and adjusted EBITDA.

Earnings performance in the past fiscal year was strongly affected by non-recurring items of minus €118.5 million (2006: minus €52.9 million). These mainly included the impairment of assets of the Carbon Fibers business unit totaling €91.2 million (previous year: €44.7 million) and expenses from restructuring measures in the Carbon Fibers and Battery Solutions business lines totaling €19.0 million. After deducting one-off effects and non-recurring items as well as depreciation and amortization of €58.7 million (2023: €58.9 million), EBIT amounted to minus €14.3 million in 2024 (2023: €56.6 million).

Taking into account the financial result of minus €32.6 million (2023: minus €34.2 million) and tax expenses of €32.5 million (2023: €19.3 million), SGL Carbon recorded a net loss of €80.3 million (2023: net profit of €41.0 million) despite the solid overall business performance.

In 2024, the Carbon Fibers (CF) business unit's sales continued to decline, decreasing by 6.7% to €209.8 million (2023: €224.9 million). The decline was due in particularly to the continued low demand from the wind industry and the increasing competitive headwind resulting from global overcapacity for textile and carbon fibers.

Adjusted EBITDA in the Carbon Fibers business unit decreased by €18.2 million year-on-year to minus €11.0 million (2023: €7.2 million). The lack of fixed cost absorption led to high idle capacity costs and combined with declining margins for our fiber products, had a negative impact on adjusted EBITDA. It should be noted that the Carbon Fibers business unit included the result of the equity accounted activities (mainly the joint venture Brembo SGL Carbon Ceramic Brakes, BSCCB) in the amount of €15.8 million (2023: €18.3 million). Excluding the contribution from the equity-accounted BSCCB, the adjusted EBITDA of Carbon Fibers would amount to minus €27.0 million (2023: minus €10.9 million).

In February 2025, as part of the review of all strategic options for the Carbon Fibers, a decision was made to extensively restructure the Carbon Fibers business unit, which also includes the closure of unprofitable business activities. A complete sale of the Carbon Fibers activities was reviewed and is currently not considered feasible.

In the reporting period, sales in the Composite Solutions (CS) business unit amounted to €124.6 million, down 19.0% (2023: €153.9 million). The decline was due in particular to the premature expiration of a significant project-related supply contract with an automotive customer.

As a result of lower volumes and product mix effects, CS's adjusted EBITDA decreased by €4.0 million or 18.0% year on year to €18.2 million (2023: €22.2 million). It should be noted that the adjusted EBITDA includes a compensation payment of €3.0 million for a prematurely terminated customer contract. The adjusted EBITDA margin remained almost constant at 14.6% compared to the previous year (2023: 14.4%).

Forecast
For the year 2025, SGL Carbon expects different but overall challenging developments in their key sales markets. For the semiconductor industry and in particular for silicon carbide-based semiconductors, the demand is expected to remain moderate. The main reasons are lower than originally forecast growth rates for electric vehicles and continued high inventories at our customers site. At the earliest, demand could pick up in the second half of 2025. The company also expects a high degree of uncertainty combined with lower momentum for the automotive market segment.

The forecast for the current fiscal year 2025 takes into account all four operating business units, as they are still in the early stages of restructuring our Carbon Fibers business. Based on their assumptions regarding the development of the key sales markets, the managers expect consolidated sales for fiscal year 2025, including all business units, to be slightly below the previous year (2024: €1,026.4 million).

Taking into account all four operating business units, an adjusted EBITDA in 2025 is expected to range between €130 million and €150 million. Furthermore, the assumption is that the free cash flow at the end of the 2025 financial year - excluding payments for the planned restructuring of the CF - will be below the previous year's level but still positive (2024: €38.7 million).

Restructuring Carbon Fibers
On February 18, 2025, the Board of Management of SGL Carbon announced a restructuring of the loss-making CF business unit. This includes a significant reduction of CF's business activities and a focus on a profitable core. SGL Carbon's group sales guidance for 2025 excluding the expected sales contribution from CF would be approximately €200 million lower. On the other hand, the adjusted EBITDA for the remaining businesses excluding the operating adjusted EBITDA of CF would be between 155 – 175 million €.

“In the coming months, our work will focus on restructuring the carbon Fibers business unit and safeguarding our profitability. This includes focusing on new sales opportunities to further utilize our production capacities and strict cost management. The major trends such as digitization, climate-friendly transportation and renewable energy sources remain intact and are the drivers for our key sales markets. SGL Carbon will benefit from these trends and the associated growth opportunities in the medium and long term,” explains Andreas Klein, CEO of SGL Carbon SE.

The HIGHTEX 2026 International Technical Textiles and Nonwoven Exhibition is the first and only exhibition in Turkey on this subject. It will open its doors at the Tüyap Fair and Congress Center between June 9-13, 2026. The exhibition aims to bring together leading technical textile and nonwoven technology manufacturers from all over the world and will host impressing innovations, especially in the fields of nonwoven fabrics and smart textiles, shaping the future of the industry.

Artificial Intelligence and Automation Supported Nonwoven Production Technologies
HIGHTEX 2026 will focus on the latest technologies used in nonwoven fabric production. Next-generation nonwoven production techniques, designed with sustainability-focused innovations to minimize environmental impact, smart production systems integrated with Industry 4.0 that enable faster and more efficient production of nonwoven fabrics, and AI-supported quality control and automation solutions will take center stage at HIGHTEX 2026.

Trends in Smart Textiles
The integration of technology into the textile industry takes on a new dimension with the rise of smart textiles. Among the innovative production technologies for smart textiles are nanotechnology, embedded sensors, heat- and pressure-sensitive fibers, and wireless-connected fabrics. HIGHTEX 2026 will be a discovery space not only for designers and manufacturers but also for technology enthusiasts. The exhibition will feature cutting-edge materials developed for the geotextile, medical textile, aerospace, and automotive industries, as well as special textile solutions for hygiene products and the agriculture and food sectors, providing professionals the opportunity to closely explore the latest technologies.

The prize in the ‘Building and Civil Engineering’ category was awarded for the development of Carbon Fibre Stone (CFS). Environmentally friendly CFS can save up to 40 % CO₂ in the construction of house walls. CFS is an innovative material that combines stone and bio-based fibres. It serves as an environmentally friendly replacement for CO₂-intensive concrete in house walls. Each square metre of a CFS wall binds 59 kg of CO₂, while conventional cement walls release 98 kg of CO₂.

The ITA won the second JEC award in the “Sports, Leisure & Recreation” category.

The Honey Roots technology is a sustainable surfboard construction realised through a 3D laminate that improves the mechanics and eliminates the need for consumables for the infusion process. The choice of materials is consistently bio-based or recycled to minimise the carbon footprint.

Project partners were Techno Carbon Technologies GbR and Kanoa Surfboards.

PhD student and project leader Lars Wollert summarises: "These awards are a recognition of our research activities and show what the ITA stands for the development of innovative products and processes together with a great network of industrial partners, openness for versatile application areas in which fibres of all kinds bring advantages and research in the context of sustainability."

The Lenzing Group, a provider of regenerated cellulose fibers for the textile and nonwoven industries, continued to improve its business performance in 2024 despite the expected slow market recovery. While Lenzing was able to significantly increase its sales volumes, the price level remained below that of the previous year. Logistics costs have risen significantly, and raw material and energy costs also remained high.

Revenue grew by 5.7 percent year-on-year to EUR 2.66 bn in 2024, mainly reflecting a higher level of revenue generated from fibers (+10 percent). The positive effects of the holistic performance program were the main factor driving the operating earnings trend. Earnings before interest, tax, depreciation and amortization (EBITDA) rose by 30.4 percent year-on-year to EUR 395.4 mn in 2024. The EBITDA margin increased from 12.0 percent to 14.8 percent. The operating result (EBIT) amounted to EUR 88.5 mn (compared with minus EUR 476.4 mn in 2023) and the EBIT margin stood at 3.3 percent (compared with minus 18.9 percent in 2023). The result before tax (EBT) amounted to minus EUR 42.0 mn (compared with minus EUR 585.6 mn in 2023).

Outlook
The IMF recently slightly upgraded its growth forecast for 2025 to 3.3 percent, but emphasizes the continued high extent of variation between regions as well as the high level of uncertainty. The latter is mainly due to geopolitical tensions, increasing protectionist tendencies, and a potential return of inflation.

In times of uncertainty, consumers are remaining cautious and thrifty, which is exerting a negative impact on consumer sentiment and on their propensity to spend.

The currency environment is expected to remain volatile in the regions relevant to Lenzing.

In the trend-setting market for cotton, analysts anticipate a slight increase of stock levels to around 18.7 mn tonnes in the current 2024/2025 harvest season, following a reduction of 0.9 mn tonnes in the previous season, according to preliminary estimates.
Earnings visibility remains limited overall.

Lenzing is still ahead of schedule with the implementation of the performance program. The company expects that the measures will also contribute to further earnings improvement in the coming quarters.

Taking the aforementioned factors into consideration, the Lenzing Group expects EBITDA to be higher in 2025 than in the previous year.
In structural terms, Lenzing continues to expect growth in demand for environmentally responsible fibers for the textile and apparel industry, as well as for the hygiene and medical sectors. As a consequence, Lenzing is very well positioned with its strategy and is driving ahead with not only profitable growth in specialty fibers but also the further expansion of its market leadership in the sustainability area.

Circ, the US-based pioneer in textile-to-textile recycling, has closed its latest investment round led by Taranis through its Carbon Ventures fund, with continued support from existing strategic investors, including Inditex, one of the world’s largest fashion retailers, and Avery Dennison, a global materials science and digital identification solutions company. This latest funding builds on Circ’s major technical and commercial progress over the past 18 months and helps fuel the company’s push to scale its revolutionary recycling technology, advancing its mission to transform the fashion industry’s waste problem into a circular solution.

Circ is uniquely positioned to transform the industry as the only company with the demonstrated ability to recycle polycotton blends and recover both fractions for textiles, having successful public collaborations with Zara, Mara Hoffman, United Arrows, Chrisitan Siriano, and more.

As Circ moves toward launching its first industrial-scale blended textile recycling plant, this partnership brings more than capital—Taranis, owned by the Perenco Group, will contribute deep expertise in developing and operating large industrial projects. Taranis’s experience engineering complex, high-volume processes will be invaluable in commercializing Circ’s technology globally.

Taranis, an investment and asset management company dedicated to sustainable industrial solutions, sees Circ’s model as a key step in reducing the environmental impact of global supply chains. Beyond financial investment, Taranis is providing direct technical validation of Circ’s processes to accelerate the transition from demonstration-scale to industrial-scale production.

“Circ has developed and demonstrated a breakthrough solution for circularity in fashion, and we believe our industrial expertise can help take it to the next level,” said Emmanuel Colombel, CEO of Taranis. “Our goal is to support scalable, pragmatic technologies that reduce waste and emissions. Circ’s vision aligns perfectly with that mission, and we’re excited to support Circ in its journey toward a more circular and responsible fashion industry.”

Ahead of the Annual Geneal Meeting of listed company Lenzing AG to be held on April 17, 2025, the Nomination Committee has revised the future composition of the Supervisory Board. Cord Prinzhorn, the current Supervisory Board Chairman is stepping down from the Supervisory Board with the end of his mandate, to focus on his existing and new engagements within B&C Group going forward.

Patrick Lackenbucher, Managing Director of B&C Group, has been nominated for election as a new member of the Supervisory Board, and is designated to take over the role of Chairman of the Supervisory Board on an interim basis. Mr. Lackenbucher has supported the company throughout various key strategic and financial projects over the past 15 years.

Designated Supervisory Board Chairman Patrick Lackenbucher sees the company well positioned for the future: “Both long-term core shareholders, B&C and Suzano, have a strong commitment to the enhancement of Lenzing’s competitiveness as a global market leader in sustainable cellulosic fibers. The company is addressing the continued competitive market environment with a holistic set of measures, that are already yielding positive results and will be pursued further consequently. Profitability is vital for Lenzing to sustain in the face of global competition over the long-term and to further invest in new products and markets. I am looking forward to working together collaboratively with the entire Lenzing Managing Board and Supervisory Board.”

Rohit Aggarwal, CEO of Lenzing AG comments: “Cord Prinzhorn has accompanied Lenzing with great confidence through the difficult environment over the past years and has played a key role in initiating revenue and cost initiatives, which have shown first positive effects in recent quarters leading to revenue, margin and cash flow enhancement for the company. On behalf of the entire Managing Board, I would like to thank him for the excellent collaboration, and I look forward to our future collaboration with the designated Chairman Patrick Lackenbucher, who brings many years of experience and extensive knowledge with Lenzing to the table.”

Besides Patrick Lackenbucher, Leonardo Grimaldi is proposed to be newly elected to the Supervisory Board. Mr. Grimaldi is Executive Vice President and Management Board member of Lenzing’s core shareholder Suzano S/A and will assume the Supervisory Bord mandate from Marcelo Bacci, who has left Suzano. He is an expert in the global pulp market and, among others, also acts as Supervisory Board Chairman at Brazilian port operator Portocel as well as a Supervisory Board member at Veracel Celulose S/A.

Cord Prinzhorn comments: “After four years on the Supervisory Board of Lenzing AG, my current mandate is coming to an end, and I will now concentrate on other existing and new engagements going forward. During my time as Supervisory Board Chairman we have managed to successfully complete important strategic investment projects in Brazil, Thailand and China, to reduce costs as well as financial debt, and at the same time to expand Lenzing’s position in this challenging market environment. I would like to thank not only the members of the Supervisory Board and the Managing Board but also, and above all, the employees of Lenzing, who have made a significant contribution to the success of these strategic projects.”

Cord Prinzhorn will remain Supervisory Board Chairman until the conclusion of the 81st Annual General Meeting on April 17, 2025. The election of Patrick Lackenbucher as Supervisory Board Chairman is planned for the constituting Supervisory Board meeting on the same day directly after the Annual General Meeting.