From the Sector

The upcoming conference on 12-13 March 2025 in Cologne, Germany, will pave pathways to a sustainable textile industry.

Over the past few weeks, the Conference Advisory Board, and the experts from the nova-Institute, have thoroughly reviewed and evaluated over 40 submitted abstracts. The selected external experts bring new insights and perspectives from the pulp, fibre and further developing industries, promising to spark and deepen discussions at the event. Their expertise across the entire fibre value chain will enrich the topics covered and ensure a dynamic and insightful exchange of ideas. The presentations will provide a platform for the discussion at the conference after each session, and the Advisory Board members will foster a lively debate to drive innovation industry-wide.

Biosynthetics on the rise
Besides cellulose fibres, bio-based polymer fibres ("biosynthetics") are an excellent option to reduce fossil fibres in textiles. Biosynthetics offer a powerful alternative to traditional synthetic fibres, bringing both performance and technical properties that make them drop-in replacements. Derived wholly or partially from natural, renewable sources like lactic acids, sugar beet, sugarcane or wood, biosynthetics represent a bio-based option compared to fossil-based counterparts. In a special session “Biosynthetics - Replacing Traditional Synthetic Fibres”, experts will explore the latest advances, challenges and opportunities in the field. Discussing innovative approaches like biosynthetics is essential to drive sustainable transformation within the fashion and textile industries.

Fibre-to-Fibre Recycling: A Path to a Sustainable Textile Industry
The textile industry is at a crucial crossroad. The need for sustainable solutions to meet the EU's ambitious climate change targets is becoming increasingly urgent. Fibre-to-fibre recycling, which transforms discarded textiles into new, virgin fibres, holds great promise for reducing waste and resource consumption and helps to close the loop in textile production. While Europe has made progress in this area, challenges remain – in particular the management of mixed fibre textiles and the scaling up of recycling technologies. As new approaches are needed to tackle climate change, one session of the conference will focus on fibre-to-fibre recycling from textiles, exploring the latest innovations and technological advances, as well as the opportunities and barriers that need to be addressed to move the industry towards a circular, sustainable future.

Fibre Microplastic Formation versus Marine Biodegradability
The environmental impact of textiles extends far beyond landfill, with microplastics from synthetic fibres becoming a growing concern in marine ecosystems. A session at the conference will focus on the complex relationship between microplastic formation and marine biodegradability. While synthetic fibres shed microplastics during washing, these tiny particles, known as microfibres accumulate in the oceans and pose a serious threat to marine life. This session will explore the factors that influence fibre degradation in the marine environment and examine the potential of biodegradable fibres to reduce long-term pollution. Leading research institutes will discuss the challenges of balancing the prevention of microplastics with the development of fibres that can degrade naturally in marine ecosystems, and provide insights into innovative solutions that could help mitigate this pressing environmental issue.

Innovation Award “Cellulose Fibre Innovation of the Year 2025”
The nova-Institute, together with GIG Karasek, is looking for the best fibre innovations of the year. Applicants from the area of cellulose fibres as well as biosynthetics are welcome to submit their innovations. Technologie providers, research institutes or producers can apply until 30 November 2024. The innovation award “Cellulose Fibre Innovation of the Year 2025” is sponsored by GIG Karasek.

Apply for the “Cellulose Fibre Innovation of the Year 2025” award: cellulose-fibres.eu/award-application

Call for Posters
The poster exhibition is a highly anticipated scientific event at the conference, especially for early career scientists. Poster submission is open until 31 January 2025.

Ontex Group NV, a leading international developer and producer of personal care products, announces the launch of a share buy-back program to acquire a maximum of 1.5 million shares, representing 1.8% of its issued shares. The shares acquired through the program will contribute to meeting Ontex’s obligations under its current and future long-term incentive plans. The share purchases will be spread over a seven-month period, starting on December 1, 2024 and ending on June 30, 2025.

The program will be conducted under the terms and conditions of the authorization granted by the extraordinary shareholders’ meeting held on May 5, 2023, and will be executed by an independent intermediary, who will make its decisions independently pursuant to a discretionary mandate. The timing of the transactions will depend on a variety of factors, including market conditions. The share buy-back program may be suspended or discontinued at any time.

In accordance with applicable laws and regulations, Ontex will publish weekly updates on the progress of its share purchases. During the term of the share buy-back program, Ontex’s liquidity contract will be suspended. As Ontex currently already holds 1.2 million shares in treasury, it will hold 2.7 million treasury shares upon completion of the program, representing 3.2% of its issued shares.

Last week, the White House announced that President Joe Biden would not implement a tariff rate quota on imports of fine-denier polyester staple fiber (PSF) in response to a section 201 safeguard case filed by U.S.-based fiber producers.

The President announced an import quota only on imports of fine-denier PSF under the temporary importation under bond (TIB) program, which is predominately used in woven textiles and apparel and is not expected to impact nonwovens.

President Biden opted not to implement a tariff rate quote or other measures that were recommended by the U.S. International Trade Commission citing that other industries, including nonwoven manufacturers, would be negatively impacted by such actions, President Biden’s proclamation stated that:

“While the USITC Commissioners recommended that I impose a tariff-rate quota on fine denier PSF imports, I have determined not to do so…[t]herefore, I have decided to tailor this safeguard remedy to TIB entries of fine denier PSF. Furthermore, I have determined not to impose a tariff-rate quota on imports of fine denier PSF in the interest of balancing the competing interests of domestic fine denier PSF manufacturers and the impact of the safeguard remedy on downstream United States producers, including manufacturers of textiles, defense products, and consumer products, that rely on fine denier PSF.”

This decision comes after several U.S.-based nonwovens producers commented to the White House Trade Policy Staff Committee and the USITC that the nonwovens industry would be harmed by actions that would raise the costs of fine-denier PSF. INDA submitted comments outlining the concerns of many nonwovens producers. Government affairs director Wes Fisher testified before the Trade Policy Staff Committee at the Office of the U.S. Trade Representative hearing on September 30th.

The Dornbirn GFC invites researchers, experts, manufacturers, and practitioners to submit papers for the 64th congress in September 2025, providing a platform for presenting innovations shaping the fiber and textile industries' future.

Submissions on the following topics are welcome:

Work- & Protective Wear & Defense

• Smart textiles providing real-time data for first responders
  (e.g., firefighters, soldiers, police, industrial workers)
• Flame-resistant fabrics for multi-risk environments, combining protection with flexibility and comfort
• Sustainability in production, eco-friendly materials, and recycling innovations for workwear and protective apparel

Carbon Stewardship: Harnessing Biomass & Recycling & Capture for a Sustainable Future

• Use of sustainable biomass in textile production
• Innovations in post-consumer textile recycling and chemical recycling methods
• Carbon capture technologies integrated across the value chain

Fiber Innovations: From Production to Application

• Biopolymer & Natural Fibers
• Textile Processing & Application
• Nonwoven Processing & Application

Cross-Industry Session

• Energy Transition
• Pulp & Paper & Packaging Innovation

Ibrahim Fibres operates nearly 200 Trützschler cards, which is more than any other business in Pakistan. The leading yarn and Polyester Staple Fiber (PS) manufacturer has partnered with Trützschler for over two decades - and recently wanted to start processing long polyester and viscose fibers. It's an unusual request that brings unique challenges.

Pakistan is the eighth largest exporter of textiles in Asia and has the third largest spinning capacity in the continent. Ibrahim Fibres, located in Faisalabad, is a big contributor to that economic strength. The pioneering company produces a wide range of yarns for woven, and knitted fabrics. This includes various blends of cotton, viscose and polyester in different proportions and combinations with yarn counts ranging from Ne 8 to Ne 50. Ibrahim Fibres uses its own polyester via 240,000 spindles at four factories, mainly to produce poly-viscose and poly-cotton combed yarn. In total, the company manufactures 1,200 tons of PSF per day and consumes around 100 tons of its own materials per day. The remaining material is sold to other textile manufacturers.

An unusual challenge
Teams from Ibrahim Fibres often approach Trützschler with fresh ideas and new expectations. They recently set the challenge of producing top-quality yarns from unusually long polyester and viscose fibers. These fibers are used for luxury textiles, high-performance fabrics, fine bedding and advanced nonwoven materials. The end products benefit from the fibers outstanding strength and durability. Often, people in the textile industry talk about the problems with processing short fibers. But long fibers also present difficulties because they have a tendency to wrap or clog carding elements. Their length also makes them more tightly bound, which means they are more difficult to open.

What was the answer to this unusual challenge? Collaboration! Experts from Trützschler worked closely with partners at Ibrahim Fibres to explore potential solutions. "Our technical teams regularly collaborate with Trützschler’s R&D department to enhance production using Industry 4.0 principles, Al, and the latest technology," says Zafar Iqbal. "We’ve now developed a method for handling longer fibers that improves yarn consistency, end-product performance, and cost efficiency, while reducing waste. Our ongoing partnership with Trützschler continues to drive innovation and efficiency in our operations."

TC 30Si is here to help...
Ibrahim Fibres wanted to process 51mm polyester with 51 mm viscose fibers. In line with these requirements, Trützschler engineers optimized the TC 30Si carding machine for processing long polyester and viscose fibers. This machine is specifically customized for man-made fibers and can process these fibers more effectively due to its larger drum diameter, which results in a 14 % extended carding length. The machine also has 35 % more active flats. It has one licker-in and its cylinder, doffer wire, flat tops and stationary flats are all designed for processing man-made fibers.

"We chose TC 30Si for its advanced features, such as its 1400 mm cylinder diameter, extended carding lengths, and the automatic T-GO gap optimizer," says Zafar Iqbal. "These attributes support our Industry 4.0 goals by enhancing technology integration, data use, and operational efficiency, making it ideal for modernizing production and staying competitive in the textile industry."

And Ibrahim Fibres has even more reasons for choosing the TC 30Si: "It has user-friendly software and an intuitive Human Machine Interface (HMI), making it easy to maintain with minimal adjustments. This card boosts productivity and reduces energy consumption, while also improving consistency and reducing defects."

EDANA, the global association for the nonwovens and related industries, concluded its annual Sustainability Forum at the KBR Royal Library of Belgium in Brussels. This year's forum, themed “Building a Sustainable Future Together,” featured a series of keynote addresses, panel discussions, and collaborative sessions focused on environmental responsibility, corporate social responsibility, and circular economy innovations within the nonwovens sector. With an agenda that bridged policy and practice, the Forum highlighted the latest advancements and strategies aimed at tackling climate change, reducing waste, and enhancing sustainability practices.

Keynote Highlights
The forum featured two keynote speakers: Ana Rovzar, Founder of Polygon AR, opened the Forum with a keynote on the accelerating transition to clean energy. In her speech, she discussed the shift from conventional energy investments to renewables, noting a 50% growth in renewables in 2023 alone. “It is accelerating much faster than people think” she remarked, emphasizing that “real progress requires a united front from governments, businesses, and communities to remove regulatory and technological barriers”.

In another keynote, sustainability expert Mike Barry, formerly of Marks & Spencer, stressed the importance of aligning corporate strategy with sustainability. “Citizens see climate change as a top priority, and companies must act boldly to reduce emissions, especially Scope 3”, he said. “Sustainability is now a vital part of brand identity, and consumers expect more transparency and commitment than ever”.

Innovative Industry Perspectives and EU Policy Impacts
Brieuc Lits, Public Affairs Director at EDANA, examined the potential effects of the EU Green Deal on the nonwovens industry. “The EU’s shift towards balancing sustainability with competitiveness will shape not only policy but the very framework within which we operate”, he noted, emphasizing that the sector must adapt to stay competitive and aligned with regulatory expectations.

Lastly, Paolo Haeusermann, Senior Brand Director and Europe Sustainability Leader at Procter & Gamble, shared insights on advancing sustainability in absorbent hygiene products and emphasized the importance of these items. “We are talking about essential products in people’s lives”, he remarked.

Corporate and Product Sustainability: A Deep Dive
Several industry leaders shared insights on integrating sustainability at every level of business. Carsten Ruff from Nitto Advanced Film Solutions discussed the challenges and strategies of embedding sustainability in corporate culture, particularly in a multinational setting. “Sustainability is not a contradiction to industrial applications; it’s a powerful driver of innovation”, he observed.

Martijn Gipmans from Sphera Solutions highlighted the business value of transparency and life-cycle assessments (LCA). “LCA and transparent ESG reporting can catalyse both business growth and environmental progress”, he explained, stressing the importance of integrated sustainability assessments to reduce the carbon footprint of entire product portfolios.

Christophe Morel-Fourrier, Sustainability Leader for Hygiene, Packaging, and Converting Adhesives at Bostik, introduced the Archimedes tool as a strategic asset for Portfolio Sustainability Assessment. “Archimedes allows us to make transparent, informed decisions that align with our long-term sustainability goals”, he explained. He highlighted that this tool helps companies evaluate the sustainability of their product portfolios, empowering them to make impactful choices that support environmental goals.

The Path Forward: Advancing Circularity and Green Innovation
One of the most discussed topics was the industry's transition toward a circular economy. Albert Hammerschmied from Freudenberg Performance Materials highlighted the importance of post-industrial waste in achieving circularity, particularly in the automotive sector. “The potential for nonwovens in the automotive circular economy is vast, but requires industry-wide collaboration”, he commented.

In a session addressing the future of sustainable practices in building insulation, Alexandre Butté of ANDRITZ Laroche emphasized the importance of sustainable materials and collaboration among stakeholders. “The building industry faces unique sustainability challenges, but with innovation and eco-friendly materials, we can bridge the gap between goals and achievable practices”, he said.

Building a Sustainable Health Sector
Danielle van Horzen, Global Marketing Manager for Hygiene and Healthcare at SABIC, discussed advanced recycling solutions in the healthcare sector. Addressing the challenges of medical waste recycling, she stated, “A significant amount of medical waste is not contaminated, offering us opportunities to create circularity in healthcare.” She pointed to the potential for advanced chemical recycling to enable circular models, helping to tackle the pressing issue of sustainable medical waste management.

The day concluded with a session on the circular potential within healthcare. Kristien Depraetere, Sustainability Coordinator at UZ Leuven, outlined sustainable practices in hospitals, from waste reduction to advanced recycling in medical waste. “Healthcare can lead by example in the transition to circularity, yet we need practical and legislative support to address unique industry challenges”.

Visit to the European Commission
The third day of EDANA’s Sustainability Forum 2024 concluded with an insightful visit to the European Commission, offering attendees a unique opportunity to engage directly with policymakers and gain firsthand insights into the EU's sustainability agenda. Hosted at the Charlemagne Building, discussions centered on pivotal elements of the EU Green Deal, including the establishment of Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR), the scope and implementation of the Single-Use Plastics Directive (SUPD), and the Ecodesign for Sustainable Products Regulation.

Featuring presentations from prominent EU officials like Vicenzo Gente and Werner Bosmans, attendees delved into how these regulations are shaping sustainability strategies across industries. Bridging policy and practice emerged as essential, reinforcing the forum’s dedication to aligning industry actions with current EU regulatory frameworks. The session offered a strong conclusion to the event, reinforcing a shared commitment to a sustainable future in collaboration with EU leaders and regulatory bodies.

A new generation of space materials left Earth November. 5 as they head to the International Space Station (ISS) to undergo testing in the brutal conditions of low Earth orbit.

Developed at the University of Bristol, these high-performance materials could be used to build future space stations, spacecraft for interplanetary travel or a new ISS.

They will be placed on the Bartolomeo platform, located on the front of the ISS, where they will orbit Earth up to 9,000 times over the next 12 to 18 months at speeds of 17,000 mph.

The carbon fibre reinforced composites will need to survive temperatures between -150ºC and +120ºC, space debris travelling seven times faster than a bullet, severe electromagnetic radiation, high vacuum and atomic oxygen, which erodes even the toughest materials.

Prof Ian Hamerton, Professor of Polymers and Sustainable Composites in the University of Bristol’s world-leading Bristol Composites Institute, said:  

“Space is the most challenging environment for which to design new materials. You’re pitting your materials expertise, skills and ingenuity against extremes of temperature, mechanical stress, radiation, high speed impacts and more.

“Any one of those might be difficult, and, unfortunately, gaining access to repair them is not an easy option, so the materials we build must survive without maintenance.  

“The opportunity to test our materials in the proving ground of space is priceless and will help our University of Bristol scientists on the ground improve fibre-reinforced materials for next-generation space missions.”

There are four laboratory-made polymers heading to the ISS, each of which has been reinforced with carbon fibres and two contain nanoparticles. All four are the result of University of Bristol research and one is patented.

 If the materials cope in the harsh environment, they could be used to create longer-lasting space components, allowing spacecraft to travel further, and spend more time in space.

Future communities on new planets will need protection against galactic cosmic radiation. Dr Ali Kandemir, Senior Research Associate at the University of Bristol, is one of several Bristol researchers, supported by the UK Space Agency (UKSA), examining the effects of simulated galactic cosmic radiation on the materials, in a European Space Agency (ESA) project.

Dr Kandemir said: “We want materials that are resilient in the space environment and, importantly, materials that can shield humans from that radiation.

“We also want to make these materials sustainable, so that when they reach the end of their life they can be recycled and used again for the same purpose.”

The launch of the Space X Dragon CRS-2 spacecraft this morning is the culmination of five years of work for Prof Hamerton and his team.

It has included the efforts of early career researchers, postgraduates and several Aerospace Engineering undergraduates at the University of Bristol, whose final year research projects have been linked to the space materials project.

The practical support of the University of Bristol-hosted National Composites Centre (NCC) was crucial to the scale up of the composite materials.

Prof Kate Robson Brown, Vice-President for Research, Innovation and Impact at University College Dublin, and a collaborator on the project, said:

“After nearly five years of research to develop novel composite materials for space applications it is very exciting to see our experiment launch to the International Space Station.

“I am proud to be part of this mission, and to be working with the multidisciplinary and multisector research team to deliver integrated real world and digital testing for innovative materials which will help to drive growth in the new space economy.

“This mission also demonstrates how space research funding creates career changing opportunities for early career researchers and PhD students in a sector of huge value to both Ireland and the UK.”

Funding to support the project was supplied by the ESA, the UKSA, Oxford Space Systems and others.

For the first time, a piece of clothing is made entirely from textile waste – no bottles, no packaging, no virgin plastic. 100% biorecycled fibers. By developing and industrializing CARBIOS’ enzymatic depolymerization technology to achieve 100% “fiber-to-fiber” recycling, the consortium collectively advances the textile industry's shift towards a circular economy.

CARBIOS, a pioneer in the development and industrialization of biological technologies to reinvent the life cycle of plastic and textiles, and its “fiber-to-fiber” consortium partners On, Patagonia, PUMA, Salomon, and PVH Corp., parent company of Calvin Klein, unveil the world’s first enzymatically recycled polyester garment made from 100% textile waste using CARBIOS’ pioneering biorecycling technology.

This technological feat contributes to advancing textile circularity when, today, the majority of recycled polyester is made from PET bottles, and only 1% of fibers are recycled into new fibers.  The collective achievement marks an important milestone for the consortium’s ultimate aim of demonstrating fiber-to-fiber closed loop using CARBIOS’ biorecycling process at an industrial scale, and marks an important step forward for the textile industry’s shift towards a circular economy.

A plain, white T-shirt was a deliberate choice to showcase the technological achievement that made its production possible from mixed and colored textile waste.  By using CARBIOS’ biorecycling technology, polyester is broken down using enzymes into its fundamental building blocks which are reformed to produce biorecycled polyester whose quality is on par with oil-based virgin polyester.  Petroleum can now be replaced by textile waste as a raw material to produce polyester textiles, that will in turn become raw materials again, thus fueling a circular economy, with the added benefit of a lower carbon footprint and avoidance of landfill or incineration.

The t-shirt’s production began with all consortium members (On, Patagonia, PUMA, PVH Corp. and Salomon) supplying rolls and production cutting scraps to CARBIOS in Clermont-Ferrand, France.  This textile waste consisted of some mixed blends with cotton or elastane, as well as various treatments (such as durable water repellent) and dyes which render them complex to recycle using conventional methods. The collected waste was deconstructed into its original monomers, PTA and MEG, using CARBIOS’ biorecycling technology at its pilot facility. The resulting monomers were then repolymerized, spun into yarn and woven into new fabric by external partners, demonstrating the seamless integration into existing manufacturing processes.  The resulting sports t-shirt made from 100% textile waste meets the quality standards and sustainability objectives of the apparel brands present in the “fiber-to-fiber” consortium.

CARBIOS’ demonstration plant in Clermont-Ferrand, France, has been up and running since 2021, and its first commercial plant, the world’s first industrial-scale enzymatic PET recycling plant, is currently under construction in Longlaville, France.  In addition, CARBIOS recently announced several letters of intent with PET producers in Asia and Europe, confirming global interest in its biorecycling technology and advancing the international roll-out of its licensing model.

In September, Ontex reached a binding agreement to sell its Brazilian business activities to Softys SA for an enterprise value of approximately €110 million, enabling improved focus on retail brands and healthcare in Europe and North America. Net proceeds of approximately €82 million are due at closing, which is expected during the first half of 2025, subject to customary conditions.

In October, the social negotiations regarding the transformation of the operating footprint in Belgium were successfully concluded. This transformation fits in Ontex’s footprint optimization, allowing to further strengthen Ontex’s competitive position. The total one-time cost is estimated at €(66) million, of which €(37) million was already recorded in the second quarter.

Q3 2024 results

• Revenue was €468 million, up 1.7% like for like. Volumes, including mix effects, were up 4.4%, driven by contract gains and supportive demand in adult care, and by growth in baby care with new retail customers in North America. Sales prices were 2.6% lower, as expected, reflecting raw material index decreases and investments in increased competitiveness. Forex fluctuations were supportive, adding 0.7%, bringing total growth at 2.4%.
• Adjusted EBITDA was €56 million, up 29% year on year, thanks to volume and mix growth and the cost transformation program delivery, contributing €8 million and €14 million respectively. The operational efficiency improved further by 3.7%, driving stronger profitability and competitiveness. Index-driven lower raw material costs more than compensated for lower sales prices, leading to a €4 million positive net impact. The increase of other operating and SG&A costs had a €(12) million effect, mostly due to continued inflation. Forex fluctuations had an adverse effect of €(2) million. The adjusted EBITDA margin thereby rose to 12.0%, up 2.4pp year on year.
• Operating profit was €8 million, compared to €29 million in 2023. The decrease relates to the transformation of the Belgian operating footprint and reflects the additional one-time provisions taken following the recent successful conclusion of the social plan negotiations.
• Discontinued operations generated a €14 million operating profit, compared to €12 million in 2023. While revenue was 3.0% lower like for like and the adjusted EBITDA margin dropped to 7.6%, reflecting more challenging market conditions, this was compensated by a net gain on disposal, that was triggered by the agreement to divest the Brazilian business.
• Net financial debt for the Total Group dropped €9 million to €579 million over the quarter. Combined with the adjusted EBITDA improvement, the leverage ratio thereby fell from 2.5x at the end of June to 2.4x at the end of September.

2024 outlook

Ontex’s management confirms its guidance for adjusted EBITDA margin, free cash flow and leverage for the full year. While new customers are on-boarded in North America, the ramp-up is phased more gradually over the third quarter and the coming months, leading management to review its revenue growth guidance, now expecting:

• Revenue [1] to grow between 2% and 3% like for like;
• Adjusted EBITDA margin [1] of 12%;
• Free cash flow higher than €20 million;
• Leverage ratio below 2.5x at year end.

INDA, the Association of the Nonwoven Fabrics Industry, in collaboration with Nonwovens Industry Magazine, is now accepting nominations for the 2025 IDEA® Achievement Awards. Industry professionals in the nonwoven and engineered materials sectors are invited to submit their innovative products—or those of their clients—for consideration.

The IDEA Achievement Awards honor innovations introduced since IDEA22, recognizing excellence in six categories. Winners will be announced during IDEA25, which will be held at the Miami Beach Convention Center, Miami Beach, Florida, from April 29 to May 1, 2025.

Award Categories:

• Raw Materials – Best new raw materials introduction
• Nonwoven Product – Best new nonwoven fabric introduction
• Short-Life – Best new short-life product introduction
• Long-Life – Best new durable product introduction
• Equipment – Best new equipment introduction
• Sustainability Advancement – Recognizing sustainability and/or circularity advancements in raw materials, nonwoven fabrics, processes and equipment, and end-use products.

Entries must be submitted by December 16, 2024 for consideration. Finalists in each category will be selected by INDA’s Technical Advisory Board, with the top three in each category moving forward. Voting will take place on the Nonwovens Industry website, allowing industry professionals to determine the winners. Additionally, the recipient of the Entrepreneur Award will be chosen exclusively by Nonwovens Industry Magazine.