From the Sector

At the end of last year, KARL MAYER launched the TM 4 EL – a new, highly flexible machine for the mid-range segment in the four-bar tricot machine sector. The machine produces fabrics for upholstery, automotive interiors and outerwear, as well as sportswear items and home textiles.

Featuring KARL MAYER’s proven CFRP technology, the TM 4 EL is up to 30% faster than the previous four-bar tricot machine designed for the commodity sector.

The new TM 4 EL is offered in gauges E 28 and E 32. The available working widths are 210” and 280”, with a working width extension also available. Further width varieties are also planned. Equipment highlights include an integrated Laser Stop to detect yarn breakages early, and functional LED lighting, which illuminates the warp knitting area for easy handling and signals unplanned machine stops using the corresponding colour. The machine can be networked with KM.ON’s secure cloud via the k.ey device to utilise the KARL MAYER GROUP’s digital solutions. This includes, for example, the web-based lapping editor CORE LITE.

ITMF (International Textile Manufacturer Federation) has published its International Textile Industry Statistics (ITIS) on productive capacity and raw materials consumption in the short-staple organized (spinning mill-) sector in virtually all textile-producing countries in the world.

The global number of installed short-staple spindles has grown from 225 million units in 2021 to 227 million units in 2022. The number of installed open-end rotors increased from 8.3 million in 2021 to 9.5 million in 2022. This constitutes the strongest growth ever recorded in this market with investment disproportionally targeting Asia. The number of installed air-jet spindles continued to increase in all regions in 2022.

The substitution between shuttle and shuttle-less looms continued in 2022. The number of installed shuttle-less looms increased from 1.72 million in 2021 to 1.85 in 2022 while installed shuttle looms reached 952 thousand. Total raw material consumption in the short-staple organized sector slightly decreased from 45,6 million tons in 2021 to 44,26 million tons in 2022. Consumption of raw cotton and synthetic short-staple fibers decreased by -2.5% and -0.7%, respectively. Consumption of cellulosic short-staple fibers increased by 2.5%.

This year’s edition of ITMA ASIA + CITME proved to be a success for the exhibiting VDMA member companies. Measured by booked square metres, Germany had the largest contingent, among the foreign exhibitors. More than 40 VDMA member companies were exhibiting their innovative products in Shanghai.

Dr. Janpeter Horn, chairman of the VDMA Textile Machinery Association noted: “Although facing a difficult market situation, this year’s edition of ITMA ASIA + CITME has exceeded the expectations, both in terms of the number of visitors and the quality of the talks. The significant number of foreign visitors to the fair was particularly pleasing.”

Solutions were demonstrated for more sustainable textile productions by most of the exhibitors, and here the VDMA members presented their technologies for saving water, energy and raw materials under the heading “Smart technologies for green textile production.”  

Dr. Uwe Rondé, CEO, Saurer Intelligent Technology AG explained: “Saurer is satisfied with both the number of visitors and the quality of the discussions. Our booth was full from morning to evening with customers focused on latest technologies within the three mega trends: recycling, automation and digitalisation. Although machine utilisation in the spinning mills is still well below average, people are already gathering information and thinking about what to invest in once the market recovers.”

Benjamin Reiners, owner of Reiners + Fürst stated: „This year’s ITMA ASIA + CITME has exceeded our expectations by far. Especially the first day - a Sunday - has brought many high-quality customers and exclusively decision makers to our booth. We estimate about 20% international customers mainly from Bangladesh, Egypt, India, Iran, Pakistan, Uzbekistan and Vietnam. All customers agreed that the market situation at the moment is difficult, capacity usage is between 50-75% in the ring spinning sector and improvement is expected not before the 2nd half of 2024. Nevertheless the general spirit is very positive.“

“This ITMA ASIA was a great success for Trützschler. We welcomed a large number of Chinese visitors to our booth, as well as a significant number of interested international visitors”, said Dr. Bettina Temath, Head of Global Marketing Trützschler Group SE.

Georg Stausberg, CEO of the polymer processing solutions division and chief sustainability officer of the Oerlikon Group stated: „We can look back on a successful show where we were able to meet many of our customers not only from China, but also from Pakistan, India and Indonesia, for example.”

“A very well-attended trade fair, with interesting discussions, great innovative topics, in line with the modern and rapidly developing China" noted Wolfgang Schöffl, head of product line weaving machines and member of the extended management, Lindauer Dornier.

The VDMA Textile Machinery Association and VDMA China were present at the fair, to support the members e.g. with regard to IPR. With the help of a VDMA expert and a contracted law firm, the member company Sahm submitted a complaint application for patent infringement disputes during the exhibition to the onsite IPR office. Both parties, Sahm, and the Chinese company, that used patented design without permission reached an agreement: The Chinese company had to stop displaying functions and designs involving patent infringement on site which meant the removal of some structural parts and the covering of key components protected by patent protection.

Dr. Harald Weber, managing director of VDMA Textile Machinery concluded: “Asia, and China in particular, represent the primary foreign markets for the VDMA member companies in the sector. The Chinese market is the main destination for their exports. Other major export destinations in Asia include India, Pakistan, Bangladesh and Uzbekistan. ITMA ASIA + CITME provides a unique platform to showcase technologies for customers directly in Asia. The VDMA member companies are looking forward to the coming edition of the fair from 14 to 18 October 2024 in Shanghai.”

The latest survey of VDMA members' subsidiaries in China gives reason to hope that the economic situation in the Chinese textile industry could also improve significantly in the second half of the year. In addition, European textile machinery manufacturers are urged to be present on the most important market and at the trade fair and to offer Asian customers most advanced technology for their demanding challenges.

Lectra will now directly manage the production of its cutting equipment manufactured in China, primarily dedicated to its Asian customers. The Suzhou site, located to the west of Shanghai, will thus benefit from the standards of operational excellence already implemented by Lectra at its two other plants in Bordeaux-Cestas, France, and Tolland, USA.

Lectra's teams have over 35 years’ experience in the Asia-Pacific region, which in 2022 generated 25% of the Group's revenues.

Since the acquisition of its competitor, Gerber Technology, in 2021, Lectra had been relying on a plant belonging to Dutch group VDL Groep (VDL), to manufacture Gerber-brand multi-ply cutters and spreaders.

For its industrial activities, Lectra aimed to adopt the same standards of operational excellence in China as those currently in effect at its Bordeaux-Cestas and Tolland sites. The Group therefore created a new subsidiary, Suzhou Lectra Equipment Manufacturing Co. Ltd., to take over from subcontractor VDL as of December 1, 2023.

Following the takeover of in-house production at the Tolland site in October 2022, the creation of the Suzhou Lectra Equipment Manufacturing Co. Ltd. subsidiary marks a new milestone in the deployment of Lectra's industrial excellence strategy on a global scale. The Group intends to give priority to regional industrial production, which is beneficial to the local economy.

Santoni Shanghai Knitting Machinery Co., Ltd. announces that it has received regulatory approval from Chinese authorities for its proposed acquisition of Terrot GmbH, a manufacturer of circular knitting machines in Germany.

The acquisition represents a pivotal step in Santoni's strategy to advance the circular knitting machine industry. The integration of Terrot into the Santoni ecosystem is projected to increase Santoni's production capacity and boost its market share, and in conjunction with other strategic objectives, firmly solidify Santoni's position as the leading manufacturer in the industry, with unrivaled scale, depth of innovation and expertise.

Seeking to meet rising demand for high-end circular knitting products, Santoni has pursued an Ecosystem Strategy in recent years, aiming to unify a highly fragmented industry and enhance innovation, sustainability and digitalization to more effectively meet market needs. The deployment of both parties' latest innovation practices, textile automation offerings, integrated enterprise services, C2M solutions, and a platform for designers "Materialliance", will allow Santoni Shanghai and Terrot to connect and bridge demand and offer of circular knitted products.

By incorporating Terrot's offerings, particularly in the double jersey and jacquard sector, Santoni stands to gain a competitive edge in offering machines known for their performance, low maintenance, and cost-effectiveness. Highlighting this shift is Terrot's UCC 572-T, a transfer jacquard machine for sports and leisurewear.

Following the acquisition, Terrot will continue to operate under the leadership of managing directors Robert W. Czajkowski and Dirk Lange. Santoni plans to maintain Terrot’s headquarters in Chemnitz, Germany, along with its facilities, brands, and practices.

Heberlein, founded in 1835, successfully completed the sale of its business on 31^st of October 2023. The new joint ownership comprises the company’s management, alongside industry expert Daniel Lippuner
and the Renaissance investment foundation. From November 1, 2023, the company will operate under the name "Heberlein Technology AG".

The owners are committed to investing in the long-term success of a business that already combines traditional values with innovative power. The brand is known for its high level of expertise, as well as its tailor-made solutions for the textile business. As the world's leading supplier of jets for synthetic yarns, Heberlein develops, produces, and distributes key components for the man-made fibre industry. Around 80 employees and an efficient infrastructure in Wattwil, Switzerland, ensure that international customers can continue to rely on quality and reliability.

The Renaissance investment foundation was established by pension funds, for pension funds, and has been investing in unlisted Swiss SMEs for over 20 years.

Under the new ownership, the Heberlein business will continue unchanged at the current location in Wattwil with the current management and all current employees. The board of directors and management of Heberlein AG welcome this solution and are convinced that the existence of the company and its traditions will now be secured in the long term and that it will continue to develop successfully – positive news also for the business location of Toggenburg and the canton of St. Gallen.

Martin Zuercher, CEO of Heberlein, says of the transaction: "With this sale, we are opening a new, positive chapter in the company's long history. With the Renaissance investment foundation, we found an owner who is focused on long-term success. Together with the energetic management team, I look forward to continuing to make a significant contribution to Heberlein's success in the future."

A total of 59 Italian machinery manufacturers will be exhibiting at the upcoming ITMA ASIA+CITME, to be held from November 19 to 23 in Shanghai, as the event had been postponed for a year in the wake of the Covid-19 pandemic. Of these 59 manufacturers, 26 will be presenting technological innovations as part of the National Sector Groups, organized by ACIMIT and ITA – Italian Trade Agency. Occupying a surface area of around 2,000 square meters, Italy is among the major foreign exhibiting Countries at the event.

Asia is a major destination for Italy’s textile machinery manufacturers, with fully 38% of all Italian textile machinery exports during the first half of 2023 (amounting to roughly 338 million euros) directed towards Asian markets. China, in particular, is an absolutely important market for Italian companies: the first in Asia and the second worldwide behind Turkey in 2022. In the first six months of this year, Italian machinery sold in China reached a value of 81 million Euro.

“The general outlook for the Chinese market remains positive, although the demand for foreign machinery from local textile manufacturers has slowed somewhat for this first half of the year,” comments ACIMIT president Marco Salvadè. “Investments in the textile industry have never stopped, so there is no shortage of opportunities in China. I believe ITMA ASIA + CITME will confirm our expectations for a recovery in demand.”

SHIMA SEIKI MFG., LTD. of Wakayama, Japan will participate in the A+A 2023—Safety, Security and Health at Work International Trade Fair in Düsseldorf, Germany (24th-27th October 2023). On display will be the company's latest safety-related technology through its new SPG®-R pile glove knitting machine and the prototype SFG®-R next-generation glove knitting machine. Each of these machines drew attention at SHIMA SEIKI's booth at the International Textile Machinery (ITMA 2023) Exhibition in Milan.

SHIMA SEIKI's original SPG®, developed in 1979 as the world’s first automatic glove knitting machine to produce seamless pile-knitted gloves, is now reborn as a next-generation model. Pile gloves feature special traits that include cushioning, shock-reduction and thermal insulation and cold protection, making them popular especially in the field of industrial safety. Now, SPG® is redesigned from the ground up and re-introduced as the SPG®-R. The new SPG®-R features a new moveable sinker system with selectable loop presser function. Combined with a new belt-driven carriage it allows SPG® to provide efficient and reliable production of fashionable, high-quality pile gloves. Shown in 7 gauge at A+A, SPG®-R surpasses the previous generation with pioneering technology, improved capability and reliable productivity.

SHIMA SEIKI's original product on which the company was founded was the fully automated seamless glove knitting machine. While the original model evolved to become the current SFG® series, SFG®-R exhibited at A+A is its spiritual successor. With a new sinker system, a belt-driven 2-cam carriage and auto yarn carriers SFG®-R is a completely new machine for knitting gloves that conform better to the shape of the hand for improved fit. Furthermore its greater design potential offers users the opportunity to break out of the work glove market and into the fashion market. SFG®-R is shown as a prototype next-generation model in 12 gauge at A+A.

Also demonstrated will be SHIMA SEIKI's APEXFiz® design software. The importance of design software is made even more significant by the new patterning capabilities of SPG®-R and SFG®-R. Both machines now feature increased design potential that allow each of their products—pile gloves and work gloves, respectively—to expand their market into fashion. APEXFiz® is available for developing these designs. Furthermore virtual sampling on APEXFiz® is especially effective in streamlining the production process. Ultra-realistic simulation capability allows the use of virtual samples for evaluating design variations without producing actual samples for each variation, thereby minimizing the time, cost and resources normally required with sample-making, supporting smart, speedy and sustainable production.

ITM Exhibitions will open its doors to host "ITM 2024 International Textile Machinery Exhibition" from June 4-8, 2024. Preparations are in full swing for the organization, where textile technology leaders will bring the latest products together with their visitors for the first time.

The ITM team focused on advertising and promotional activities in order to host thousands of visitors and sector investors from all over the world at the ITM 2024 Exhibition, which halls were almost full due to intense participation demands. In this context; 'ITM 2024 Video', which tells the story of the increasing success of ITM exhibitions over the years and which is eagerly awaited by the whole sector, has recently been published. The video, which was published in Turkish and English on social media accounts such as YouTube, LinkedIn, Instagram, Twitter and Facebook, was viewed by more than 30 thousand people in total and received great appreciation from the viewers.

“Discover the Future!” in the video prepared with the main theme “Discover innovations, technologies, the future...” and including clues about the ITM 2024 Exhibition, was revealed as follows:
The textile sector is among the souls of the economy with its production capacity, export volume, and contribution to employment. Many R&D centers around the world and in Turkey are breaking new ground by taking their work and innovations one step further every day. Textile technology leaders are developing technologies that consume less water and energy, are easy to use, are software and automation supported, keep up with trends and respect the environment while doing so. Industry stakeholders, especially textile manufacturers, are now curious about the answer to this question: 'What will be the future of the textile industry, which is digitalizing, complying with sustainability principles, and signing groundbreaking innovations? This question will be answered at ITM 2024, which will host the latest innovations, technologies, artificial intelligence-supported machines, software and design excellence devices in textile machinery.

A delegation of Italian textile machinery companies will attend the 2023 edition of TITAS TAIPEI, which will be held in Taipei, Taiwan, from October 17 to 19, 2023. Taiwan is judged as a very promising market for the Italian textile machinery industry, especially in the innovative sectors of technical textiles and nonwovens.

In 2022, Italian exports to the Asian country exceeded the value of 17 million euros, and in the period January-June 2023, the value has already reached 7 million euros. The attention for the Taiwanese market has led ACIMIT, the Association of Italian Textile Machinery Manufacturers, and Italian Trade Agency to set up a pavilion at the upcoming edition of TITAS TAIPEI.

Six Italian textile machinery manufacturers, all ACIMIT member companies, will exhibit in the pavilion: Ferraro, Danitech, Lgl, Ms Italy, Reggiani, Unitech.

At the upcoming TITAS TAIPEI, therefore, visitors will be introduced to Italian technology, once again a key player in the textile production process.