From the Sector

RE&UP announced a new partnership with Marchi & Fildi to co-develop a new generation of premium recycled cotton yarns. The collaboration – currently at pre-industrial stage – combines RE&UP’s cutting-edge textile-to-textile recycling technology with Marchi & Fildi’s deep expertise in sustainable yarn development and manufacturing.

With the goal of reaching all levels of the textile value chain, the project represents a key milestone in the evolution of circular innovation. The recycled cotton fibers used in the initiative come from RE&UP’s fully integrated process, which transforms post-consumer waste into high-quality raw materials ready for industrial application.

RE&UP and Marchi & Fildi bring together a powerful blend of innovation and excellence. This collaboration is driven by a shared belief: that circularity must go hand in hand with uncompromising quality. By combining RE&UP’s breakthrough recycling technology with Marchi & Fildi’s expertise in premium yarn development, the two companies are laying the groundwork for scalable, high-performance solutions that can elevate the entire textile value chain.

Ina Brandes, Minister for Culture and Science of the state of North Rhine-Westphalia, visited Institute Director Professor Dr Thomas Gries in person on 7 March to gain an impression of research at Institut für Textiltechnik of RWTH Aachen University. Their tour took them through the central steps of the textile process chain - from primary spinning and fibre spinning processes to modern composites such as fibre composites and textile concrete. The ITA focuses on sustainability, circular economy and bioeconomy and offers comprehensive training programmes, from industrial training to doctorates. As a technology driver in textile technology, the ITA emphases on digitalisation and automation and the use of artificial intelligence (AI), especially neural networks, which have been under development at ITA for more than 30 years.

ITA researches and develops technical textiles for the needs of today and tomorrow. This includes, for example, the BIOTURF project. It is part of the BIOTEXFUTURE innovation area for bio-based textile research funded by the Federal Ministry of Education and Research. The aim here is to convert the textile value chain from petroleum-based to bio-based. Another major project is WIRKsam Competence Centre. By designing AI-supported work, WIRKsam aims to improve the competitiveness of companies and to make work healthier and more attractive. Other project examples include sustainable pipeline systems for the future, textile recycling and reducing the CO² footprint. ITA is researching, for example, how recyclable insulation textiles can contribute to thermal insulation or how textiles can be used to automatically and sustainably remove oil spills from water. To this end, ITA is active worldwide and internationally, including in cooperation with South Korea on industrial digitalisation and renewable energies, to name just a few examples.

With more than 100 doctoral students and a total of around 400 employees, ITA is one of the five largest institutes at RWTH Aachen University.

Science Minister Ina Brandes: “Prof. Thomas Gries and his team are demonstrating outstanding work at Institut für Textiltechnik (ITA) of RWTH Aachen University. For over 90 years, ITA has been researching, developing, and designing advanced textiles – for example sustainable fibres that reduce the use of petroleum-based materials. The different possible uses of the materials are impressive: from artificial soccer turf to sportswear, medical materials such as heart valves, and textile-reinforced concrete for building construction. New technologies and strong networks between science and industry empower ITA to significant textile progress.“

International technology group ANDRITZ has supplied and commissioned a reXline tearing system for Buitex, Semin Group, located in Cours, France. The new production line enables the company to expand textile waste recycling for sustainable insulation production.

Founded in 1895, Buitex is a French manufacturer of high-performance recycled products. As a pioneer in circular economy practices, Buitex transforms textile waste into high-performance insulation and comfort products. Since joining the Semin Group in 2023, the company has operated a 20,000 m² production site equipped with six production lines and has become one of Europe’s major players in the circular economy.

This second ANDRITZ tearing line at Buitex increases the company’s recycling capacity while maintaining high fiber purity, thanks to an advanced hard-point removal system. The latest-generation cyclone technology further improves disruptor sorting, enhancing overall efficiency. The system can process up to an additional 2.5 tons of fiber per hour, enabling the production of recycled fibers for applications such as bedding, construction, and automotive insulation.

"It is crucial for us to make the building insulation industry more sustainable by giving new life to post-consumer clothes that would otherwise be incinerated or end up in landfills. The European market has abundant raw materials and a strong demand for sustainable insulation products. With this new line, ANDRITZ enables us to significantly enhance our recycling capabilities,” says Adam Adamowicz, CEO of Buitex.

March, 5 marks the official launch of the T2T Alliance - Powering Policy for a Textile-to-Textile Future, spearheaded by recyclers Circ, Circulose, RE&UP, Syre to advocate for their sector within the EU policy framework and beyond. With the textile industry at a critical juncture, the T2T Alliance unites key stakeholders to secure their place at the heart of Europe’s circular economy policies. By bringing recyclers’ expertise to the forefront, the T2T Alliance is driving policy change that supports a thriving, resilient and truly sustainable textile industry.

Set to become the defining textile policy of 2025, the Ecodesign for Sustainable Products Regulation (ESPR) will introduce market-entry ecodesign requirements that mandate a significant increase in recycled textile fibers by 2028. Alongside ongoing work in the EcoDesign Forum, the Commission’s technical body is preparing ecodesign requirements and invited stakeholder feedback on its latest report. The T2T Alliance seized the opportunity to provide expert input on the development of ecodesign requirements for textile apparel through:

• Promoting T2T recycled content and recyclability as core requirements in the ESPR ecodesign requirements for textiles
• Supporting a closed-loop textile recycling approach which includes post-industrial, pre-consumer waste and post-consumer waste
• Clarifying misconceptions about the textile recycling industry in the report (for example, by debunking the assumption that allowing post-industrial waste to fulfil recycled content targets would incentivise its overproduction)
• Advocating for a wide range of verification methods for tracing recycled material.

The T2T recycling industry requires urgent strategic intervention to ensure its long-term viability. Closing the loop in the textile industry, textile-to-textile recycling is an innovative process that involves converting used or waste textiles into new textile products. While the developments on the ESPR represent a momentous milestone, the direction that policy discussions are currently taking will have detrimental effects on the growth of T2T recyclers.

Even though the perspective of T2T recyclers is essential for effective policymaking, it seemed to be underrepresented in policy discussions so far. The T2T Alliance is a force to provide policymakers with an understanding of the real-world impact of sustainability policies, holds them accountable and ensures textile circularity is a non-negotiable in EU policy. The group is facilitated by 2B Policy, a consultancy that supports businesses to navigate a regulated future by offering strategic guidance, compliance support and facilitating industry collaboration and association building. The T2T Alliance will act as a hub for advocacy, collaboration and joint action and ensure T2T recyclers’ interests are not just heard but embedded in future textile policies, in the EU and beyond.

The Alliance is committed to:

• Advocating for textile-to-textile recyclers’ perspective in EU legislation and policies.
• Supporting the development of new legal requirements mandating textile-to-textile recycled content and recyclability in new textile products in the context of the Ecodesign for Sustainable Products Regulation (ESPR).
• Removing barriers that hinder the growth and scalability of the T2T industry.

The formation of the T2T Alliance marks a significant milestone in the development toward a truly circular textile economy. By uniting key stakeholders, the Alliance will advocate for textile-to-textile recyclers to receive the necessary recognition in the policy ecosystem and support policymakers in understanding the full impact on T2T recyclers and incorporating these insights into policies.

When PERFORMANCE DAYS opens its doors on March 5-6, 2025, at halls C4 and C5 at Messe München, visitors will once again discover fabric innovations for Spring/Summer 2027 across the Performancewear, Bodywear, and Accessories segments. For the first time, a dedicated Wool Forum will be introduced alongside the existing Trend, Footwear, and Bodywear Forums. A jury of renowned industry experts carefully reviewed the submissions for the upcoming season and awarded a total of four prizes.

At the heart of the event, the Trend Forum will showcase the award-winning fabrics for the first time, including the winners of the PERFORMANCE AWARD and the ECO PERFORMANCE AWARD. As the dedicated Footwear Area will now only appear at the fall fair, this year’s Footwear Forum will also be integrated into the Trend Forum in Hall C4. Additionally, visitors can explore the first-ever Wool Forum, located in the Wool Area, which mirrors the setup of the Bodywear Forum in the Bodywear Collective.

The jury, led by Marco Weichert, CEO of PERFORMANCE DAYS, along with Clarissa Stadelmann (Product Manager), Jury Head Alexa Dehmel, Regina Goller (Head of Innovation & Future Trends), and guest juror Laura Howe, Fabric Technologist at Mountain Equipment, expressed their enthusiasm for the outstanding submissions.

Sustainability and innovation in focus: Wool makes a grand comeback
The materials were divided into 13 categories, including 3-layer membranes, baselayers, workwear, bags, waterproof 2-layer fabrics, wool, and others. A particular emphasis was placed on this season’s Focus Topic: “Certifications – Which Ones Matter?”. The top 28 fabrics from each category, along with insights from the Focus Topic compiled by CSR specialist Anna Schuster, will be presented in the Trend Forum.

Previous focus topics have significantly elevated the quality of submissions. The Fall 2024 topic, “Colorization: Chemistry is Everywhere,” spurred a rise in the use of bio-synthetic dyes. Meanwhile, the Spring 2024 theme, “The Future of Polyester: Beyond the Bottle,” showcased advancements in textile-to-textile recycling materials.

This year, developments in the categories of Membranes, Safety & Durability (including aramid fibers), and Wool particularly stood out. Wool demonstrated exceptional versatility, being used in applications ranging from windbreakers to shirts. There was also notable growth in materials such as hemp-lyocell blends, recycled polyamide, and multi-component yarns. Two standout fabrics included a “Hulk fabric” featuring color-shifting effects under tension and a luxuriously soft modal-cashmere knit.

The award-winning innovations and highlighted materials will be on display during PERFORMANCE DAYS on March 5-6, 2025, in halls C4 and C5 at Messe München.

The joint venture between the Salvation Army Trading Company (SATCoL) and Project:
Plan B, known as Project Re:Claim, uses an ISEC evo system from PURE LOOP to process used garments and textiles. The project, supported by the EREMA Group, represents Europe’s first commercial scale polyester textile recycling system. Project Re:Claim is the first recycling system for textile polyester in Europe, specialising in post-consumer and post-industrial textiles.

On 22 November, the prestigious Plastics Industry Awards ceremony was held in London, UK. Project Re:Claim was recognised in the “Recycler of the Year” category. The partner companies accepted the award together with great enthusiasm.

Manfred Dobersberger, Managing Director of PURE LOOP, said: “We are incredibly proud of this recognition, which once again proves that going the extra mile truly pays off. The PURE LOOP team believed in taking new paths, and now we are being rewarded with this award. It’s a well- deserved acknowledgment of the hard work and determination our team has shown. Project Re:Claim is a true example of how successful collaboration between companies can drive forward textile recycling. I’m eager to see where this journey will take us.”

James Holmes, Production Director at Plan B, said: “We are thrilled to receive this prestigious award, which underscores the dedication and innovation that Project Plan B brings to the table. The success of Project Re:Claim is a testament to the power of collaboration and the relentless pursuit of sustainability. Our team at Plan B, in partnership with SATCoL and PURE LOOP, has worked tirelessly to create a groundbreaking recycling system that addresses the pressing issue of textile waste. This recognition motivates us to continue pushing the boundaries of what is possible in textile recycling. We are excited about the future and the positive impact we can make on the environment.”

International technology group ANDRITZ has received an engineering order from US textile recycling innovator Circ in anticipation of its first large-scale textile recycling plant. The plant will be the first to recover cotton and polyester from blended textile waste.

Circ® is a pioneering company focused on sustainable solutions for the fashion industry. By converting fashion waste into reusable raw materials for fabrics, Circ reduces the need for petroleum and natural resources. The company’s mission is to build a truly circular economy to protect the planet from the cost of clothing.

ANDRITZ has been successfully conducting trials for Circ at the ANDRITZ Fiber R&D Center in Springfield, Ohio, USA, for several years. The successful partnership and recent developments have led to the decision to expand this cooperation.

The majority of fashion waste consists of polyester-cotton blends, which poses a significant challenge to achieving greater circularity. In particular, the separation of cellulosic and synthetic fibers from textile waste has been a major obstacle. Circ’s innovative recycling process can break down polycotton textile waste into its original components – polyester and cotton. The forthcoming plant will process 200 tons of textile waste per day, allowing cotton to be recycled for lyocell production and polyester to be reused for polyester production. This will reduce the need for virgin raw materials.

Conor Hartman, Chief Operating Officer at Circ, says: “We remain excited about this continued collaboration with ANDRITZ. Together, we will commercialize Circ’s innovative recycling process and take another step towards a truly circular fashion industry. With its expertise in engineering and building large-scale process equipment, ANDRITZ is the right partner to help us transform textile waste into recycled fibers on an industrial level.

Michael Waupotitsch, Vice President Textile Recycling at ANDRITZ, comments: “We are eager to support Circ in their vision of circularity because the technology they have developed is uniquely suited to solve one of the biggest challenges in fashion waste and recycling. With our holistic knowledge in resizing, mechanical separation, hydrothermal processing, recovery of cellulosic pulp as well as pulp cleaning and pulp drying, we have the right expertise to help them achieve their goals. Our experience in process development and machinery will help bring their innovative recycling technology to life.”

The Dornbirn GFC invites researchers, experts, manufacturers, and practitioners to submit papers for the 64th congress in September 2025, providing a platform for presenting innovations shaping the fiber and textile industries' future.

Submissions on the following topics are welcome:

Work- & Protective Wear & Defense

• Smart textiles providing real-time data for first responders
  (e.g., firefighters, soldiers, police, industrial workers)
• Flame-resistant fabrics for multi-risk environments, combining protection with flexibility and comfort
• Sustainability in production, eco-friendly materials, and recycling innovations for workwear and protective apparel

Carbon Stewardship: Harnessing Biomass & Recycling & Capture for a Sustainable Future

• Use of sustainable biomass in textile production
• Innovations in post-consumer textile recycling and chemical recycling methods
• Carbon capture technologies integrated across the value chain

Fiber Innovations: From Production to Application

• Biopolymer & Natural Fibers
• Textile Processing & Application
• Nonwoven Processing & Application

Cross-Industry Session

• Energy Transition
• Pulp & Paper & Packaging Innovation

Project Re:Claim, a joint venture between the Salvation Army Trading Company and Project Plan B, has been nominated for the Plastics Industry Awards 2024 in the "Recycler of the Year" category. Using an ISEC evo system from PURE LOOP to process used garments and other textiles, the project is Europe’s first polyester textile recycling system. The award ceremony will take place on 22 November in London.

The UK produces more than half a million tonnes of polyester textile waste every year. Project Re:Claim aims to recycle post-industrial and post-consumer clothing and textiles. The focus is on the recycling of post-industrial polyester from contract textiles for hospitals or hotels (e.g. bed and table linen), workwear and school uniforms, as well as promotional banners (e.g. printed sports banners). The fabrics and textiles come from controlled material streams (closed-loop systems), ensuring minimal impurities. The recycling technology used is an ISEC evo 302 E from PURE LOOP. This innovative technology, developed by the EREMA Group’s member, enables efficient production of high-quality rPET from textile waste.

Europe’s first polyester textile recycling system
The plant, installed at a Salvation Army Trading Company (SATCoL) processing centre in Kettering in early 2024, represents Europe’s first commercial scale polyester textile recycling system specialising in post-consumer polyester. SATCoL is the trading arm of The Salvation Army and UK’s largest charity owned textile collector.

Together with Project Plan B, a specialist in garment design with a focus on design for recycling, PURE LOOP optimised its integrated shredder-extruder combination ISEC evo for the specific requirements. "Plan B has a vision, and we are convinced something great can come out of it," emphasises Manfred Dobersberger, Managing Director at PURE LOOP. Thanks to the configuration of shredder and extruder on one drive shaft and the patented double feed ram system, the ISEC evo 302 E gently processes discarded polyester into rPET, which can be reused for new yarns and other products. "Up until now, polyester that had no useful life left would have been disposed of," explains Tim Cross, CEO of Project Plan B. "With the ISEC evo, we can now return textile waste as a valuable material back to the supply chains. It’s a carbon saving solution, and it plays a significant role in helping our collective journey to Net Zero."

Textile recycling: an industry with growth potential
The plant aims to recycle 2,500 tonnes of polyester in its first year, doubling this amount in the second year. In addition to the environmental benefits such as diverting unwearable textiles away from landfill, initial estimates indicate that the production of pellets from Project Re:Claim uses only one-tenth of the energy compared with pellets produced from virgin polyester. One prerequisite for this is an energy-efficient recycling machine such as the ISEC evo.

Maintaining a focus on innovation despite the uncertainties that characterize the current international scenario was emphasized during the General Assembly of ACIMIT, the Italian Textile Machinery Manufacturers Association, held in Milan on July 9. ACIMIT president, Marco Salvadè, showcased the data of the Italian textile machinery industry. In 2023, production decreased by 16%, settling at a value of 2.3 billion euros, as did exports, which also fell by 16% (2 billion euros).

China, Turkey, India, and the United States remain the main destinations for Italian textile machinery manufacturers. In 2023, demand for machinery in these markets was weak, but some positive signals emerged in the first quarter of the current year, especially from the Chinese market and again from Egypt, Pakistan, Brazil, and Japan. “2024 will still be a year characterized by many uncertainties,” commented Salvadè, “mainly due to the uncertainty of the geopolitical situation and fluctuations in final demand”.

In an especially difficult international scenario and with a still sluggish market, the Italian textile machinery sector remains a leader alongside a few other Countries, such as China, Germany and Japan. Accelerating innovation remains crucial, particularly to meet the challenges that await Italian manufacturers in supporting textile companies on their sustainable transition journey.

To highlight the opportunities that the European green transition opens up for technology suppliers, the public section of the ACIMIT General Assembly addressed a very current issue: textile recycling. The EU’s legislative guidelines aim to accelerate the green and circular transition of the textile sector with various actions: from ecodesign to EPR, from waste export regulation to green claims. Meanwhile, there is a growing demand for recycled textile fibers driven by the sustainable policies of brands that should not be underestimated.