From the Sector

With a clear focus on sustainability, Barmag, a subsidiary of the Swiss Oerlikon Group, is presenting comprehensive solutions from its product brands Oerlikon Barmag and Oerlikon Neumag for DTY and carpet yarn production at the Morocco Stitch & Tex Expo in Casablanca. From May 13 to 15, trade visitors can talk to experts from Barmag and the joint venture BB Engineering (BBE) at the Unionmatex booth (booth B4) to get an idea of the portfolio of the chemical fiber machine manufacturer.

Sustainable and efficient – the production of DTY yarns
Oerlikon Barmag offers a wide range of DTY machine configurations for the efficient and sustainable production of high-quality textured yarns made of various polymers – from polyester and polyamide to polypropylene, PLA and PTT. The modular machines – whether manual or automatic – produce yarns for excellent downstream processing at optimal OPEX costs.

Fancy yarns increasingly in demand
The demand for textiles with special characteristics is continuously increasing. For the production of these effect yarns, such as cotton-like DTY, linen-like DTY or wool-like DTY, Oerlikon Barmag offers a variety of processes and additional components. With its high-quality and flexible technology as well as its detailed knowledge of the yarn path and the required parameter settings, Oerlikon Barmag is the ideal partner for the successful and flexible production as well as the continuous further development of these specialty yarns.

Extended product range for carpet yarns
Thanks to its comprehensive knowledge of all relevant technologies in manmade fiber spinning, Oerlikon Barmag is the only manufacturer worldwide that can expand its range for the production of carpet yarns. The system concept, based on a POY and texturing process, is designed for the carpet and home textile sector and produces particularly soft and bulky polyester threads with BCF-like properties. The aim is to produce yarns with a titer of up to 1300dtex and over 1000 filaments, such as 1300dtex f1152, 660dtex f1152 and 990dtex f768. The machine concept includes the well-known WINGS HD POY winder and the eAFK Big-V texturing machine.

Innovative bicomponent BCF yarn for the carpet market
Quality, efficiency and performance – with its latest development in the field of bicomponent yarns for carpet production, Barmag's product brand Oerlikon Neumag is meeting the carpet market's demand for innovative BCF yarns. The new BICO-BCF yarn is characterized by a richer and higher volume and simultaneously significantly reduces the raw material consumption during carpet manufacturing.

VarioFil® – versatile compact spinning system for diverse applications and specialties
The VarioFil® system from BBE is ideal for a broad range of products, whether it be carpets, upholstery fabrics, fashion, sports, seat belts or airbags. This compact turnkey spinning line is particularly suitable for producers of small batches or specialized products. It flexibly processes various polymers such as PET, PP, PA 6, PA 6.6 and PBT. In combination with Oerlikon Barmag texturing machines, a wide range of textile standard yarns as well as textured yarns with BCF-like properties can be produced.

The VarioFil® R+ enables the direct recycling and processing of PET bottle flakes and PET waste from the start-up process into POY. This sustainable machine concept offers a high degree of product flexibility, including the production of spun-dyed yarn.

JeTex® air texturing offers a versatile product portfolio
BB Engineering also offers flexible solutions for the subsequent texturing of yarns. The JeTex® air texturing system perfectly complements the Oerlikon Barmag DTY systems and expands the product portfolio to include high-quality ATY based on POY and FDY for various textile applications. The centerpiece of the system is the texturing box developed by BB Engineering, which ensures gentle yarn treatment with reliable texturing effects and production efficiency.

“From waste to value” with VacuFil and Visco
BBE's VacuFil PET recycling system transforms textile waste into high-quality rPET melt. The technology is based on decades of experience in extrusion, filtration and spinning and combines gentle large-area filtration with targeted IV control. VacuFil processes various input materials, from bottle flakes to production waste and post-consumer waste. The patented Visco+ component removes volatile contaminants and automatically regulates the IV. The recycled melt can be added to the main melt stream, pelletized into chips or fed directly back into the spinning mill. The VacuFil system is modular and flexibly adaptable to customer needs.

Sports company PUMA and RE&UP Recycling Technologies have signed a Letter of Intent (LoI) to scale a fully circular textile solution, transforming textile waste into RE&UP’s Next-Gen Recycled Cotton Fibers and Recycled Polyester Chips.

Circularity is one of the focus areas of PUMA’s Vision 2030 sustainability goals and the company has already scaled up its RE:FIBRE textile-to-textile recycling program, producing millions of football jerseys made out of an increasing share of recycled textiles. RE&UP has become a key Next-Gen raw material partner in the RE:FIBRE program supporting PUMA’s ambition to reduce reliance on bottle-recycled polyester, enhancing true circularity while minimizing textile waste. Due to its previous success, this collaboration has now evolved into a broader global commitment to fully enabling circularity.

As part of the expansion, PUMA will introduce RE:FIBRE to the Americas, leveraging RE&UP’s recycled raw materials within its local supply chain. Both companies have a long-term commitment to scaling sustainable solutions in the textile industry. By 2030, PUMA aims to use 30% fiber-to-fiber recycled polyester fabric for its apparel products.

RE&UP’s revolutionary recycling technology is a key enabler of the circular transition of the industry, especially due to its unique capability to process diverse textile feedstocks, including post-consumer and post-industrial waste, as well as complex blended textiles like polycotton and polyester-elastane—materials, traditionally difficult to recycle. Powered with 100% renewable energy and leveraging advanced technologies such as decolorization processes, RE&UP sets a new benchmark for sustainable, low-impact recycled textile fibers.

Reju™, a textile-to-textile regeneration company, and Cibutex, a cooperative of companies dedicated to establishing a more sustainable textile supply chain, announced a partnership. Through this collaboration, Reju and Cibutex will work to establish an ecosystem among Cibutex member companies.

This partnership will deliver feedstock supply of secondary raw materials derived from post-consumer textile waste to Reju for the recycling and the production of regenerated Reju Polyester™. This provides circular regeneration opportunities using Reju’s innovative textile-to-textile recycling technology.

Reju is pioneering a global infrastructure for large-scale textile waste regeneration, starting with polyester. Reju Polyester™, will have a 50% lower carbon footprint compared to virgin polyester and can be regenerated infinitely. This partnership with Cibutex will see materials from the cooperative’s member companies processed at Reju’s Regeneration Hub Zero in Frankfurt, Germany, which will be fully operational in 2025 and at future Reju Regeneration Hubs.

Cibutex brings together companies from the textile service sector to collect and process post-use business textiles, creating a pathway for these materials to be reintroduced into the production cycle. It aims to close the loop on business textile production, ensuring that B2B post-use textiles are collected and transformed into valuable raw materials. By integrating Reju’s proprietary regeneration technology, this union ensures traceability and scalability, key components of a truly sustainable and circular textile supply chain.

The joint efforts of Reju and Cibutex highlight the strength of combined ingenuity and innovation in tackling the growing challenge of textile waste. With the European Union’s mandate for textile waste collection taking effect this year, along with pending regulations in the U.S., this initiative comes at a pivotal moment, ensuring scalable solutions to meet regulatory demands and achieve a more sustainable future.

AIMPLAS will focus in this phase on the dissolution of PVC in textile waste and the chemical recycling of polyurethane foams. tExtended solutions are to be soon tested on a Europe-wide level and replication potential is to be studied regionally. Activities will also involve local community actors in the development and improvement of its blueprint.

The focus on finding solutions to the growing issue of textile waste is growing at both European and global levels. The EU-funded project tExtended is spearheading innovation in this area with the development of a blueprint, a knowledge-based masterplan to develop and demonstrate effective textile recovery, reuse, waste valorisation, and recycling processes.

After two years of extensive research, tExtended is now entering the second phase of work. The project continues developing its Conceptual Framework, a knowledge-based solution that targets quality retention. tExtended is also preparing to test it in an Industrial-Urban symbiosis collaborative real-scale demonstrator, to show its potential to reduce textile waste by 80%.

AIMPLAS, the Plastics Technology Centre, will play a key role in several areas of this phase. Regarding the identification and classification of materials, the centre is working with advanced technologies such as optical sensors (NIR, RGB and hyperspectral cameras) in collaboration with VTT. The aim is to assess the composition of textiles to meet recycling requirements. In addition, they will develop methods to separate non-textile parts, such as electrostatic and triboelectric separation, and classify garments by type through air separation. For this, the technology centre will use equipment adapted to process textile parts on a pilot scale. In addition, they are investigating the dissolution of PVC in textile waste to facilitate the separation of other materials and improve their recycling once separated. AIMPLAS is also working on a chemical recycling process for polyurethane foams to recover polyols that can be reintegrated into polyurethane foam formulations.

These project activities will take place in different formats in all the countries of the tExtended consortium, including Finland, Sweden, Belgium, France, Ireland, Latvia, Slovakia, Spain, Portugal, and Switzerland. The real scale demonstrator will be carried out in wide collaboration on European level, but tExtended will also realize localized regional studies for the evaluation of the replication potential.

The four-year project, funded by the European Commission’s Horizon Europe research and innovation programme, also focuses now on the social aspect of the textile sector by involving local community actors in the project activities. Through citizens’ participation in different actions on pre-sorting and returning used textiles, tExtended will raise their awareness about the sustainability and circularity of textiles.

The road towards the development of the tExtended masterplan for a sustainable textile ecosystem has already brought the project to reach relevant successes. Especially, the results obtained about improving upcycling processes and in designing a future data-driven circular ecosystem will influence the upcoming work towards the tExtended goals.

This project has received funding from the European Union’s Horizon Europe research and innovation programme under Grant Agreement No.101091575.

The joint venture between the Salvation Army Trading Company (SATCoL) and Project:
Plan B, known as Project Re:Claim, uses an ISEC evo system from PURE LOOP to process used garments and textiles. The project, supported by the EREMA Group, represents Europe’s first commercial scale polyester textile recycling system. Project Re:Claim is the first recycling system for textile polyester in Europe, specialising in post-consumer and post-industrial textiles.

On 22 November, the prestigious Plastics Industry Awards ceremony was held in London, UK. Project Re:Claim was recognised in the “Recycler of the Year” category. The partner companies accepted the award together with great enthusiasm.

Manfred Dobersberger, Managing Director of PURE LOOP, said: “We are incredibly proud of this recognition, which once again proves that going the extra mile truly pays off. The PURE LOOP team believed in taking new paths, and now we are being rewarded with this award. It’s a well- deserved acknowledgment of the hard work and determination our team has shown. Project Re:Claim is a true example of how successful collaboration between companies can drive forward textile recycling. I’m eager to see where this journey will take us.”

James Holmes, Production Director at Plan B, said: “We are thrilled to receive this prestigious award, which underscores the dedication and innovation that Project Plan B brings to the table. The success of Project Re:Claim is a testament to the power of collaboration and the relentless pursuit of sustainability. Our team at Plan B, in partnership with SATCoL and PURE LOOP, has worked tirelessly to create a groundbreaking recycling system that addresses the pressing issue of textile waste. This recognition motivates us to continue pushing the boundaries of what is possible in textile recycling. We are excited about the future and the positive impact we can make on the environment.”

International technology group ANDRITZ has received an engineering order from US textile recycling innovator Circ in anticipation of its first large-scale textile recycling plant. The plant will be the first to recover cotton and polyester from blended textile waste.

Circ® is a pioneering company focused on sustainable solutions for the fashion industry. By converting fashion waste into reusable raw materials for fabrics, Circ reduces the need for petroleum and natural resources. The company’s mission is to build a truly circular economy to protect the planet from the cost of clothing.

ANDRITZ has been successfully conducting trials for Circ at the ANDRITZ Fiber R&D Center in Springfield, Ohio, USA, for several years. The successful partnership and recent developments have led to the decision to expand this cooperation.

The majority of fashion waste consists of polyester-cotton blends, which poses a significant challenge to achieving greater circularity. In particular, the separation of cellulosic and synthetic fibers from textile waste has been a major obstacle. Circ’s innovative recycling process can break down polycotton textile waste into its original components – polyester and cotton. The forthcoming plant will process 200 tons of textile waste per day, allowing cotton to be recycled for lyocell production and polyester to be reused for polyester production. This will reduce the need for virgin raw materials.

Conor Hartman, Chief Operating Officer at Circ, says: “We remain excited about this continued collaboration with ANDRITZ. Together, we will commercialize Circ’s innovative recycling process and take another step towards a truly circular fashion industry. With its expertise in engineering and building large-scale process equipment, ANDRITZ is the right partner to help us transform textile waste into recycled fibers on an industrial level.

Michael Waupotitsch, Vice President Textile Recycling at ANDRITZ, comments: “We are eager to support Circ in their vision of circularity because the technology they have developed is uniquely suited to solve one of the biggest challenges in fashion waste and recycling. With our holistic knowledge in resizing, mechanical separation, hydrothermal processing, recovery of cellulosic pulp as well as pulp cleaning and pulp drying, we have the right expertise to help them achieve their goals. Our experience in process development and machinery will help bring their innovative recycling technology to life.”

The textile industry faces increased scrutiny on its substantial amounts of waste generated each year. This presents a challenge for the industry, but also a massive opportunity for circularity and transparency; with efforts underway to track, reduce, and utilise waste towards better end-of-life practices.

Waste reflects a burden on resources, inefficient processes, and unmanaged emissions, highlighting the need for action. Rising regulations are also inciting action from the industry, such as recyclers using textile waste as feedstock to displace virgin fibre production. However, information on textile waste is currently fragmented, with data scattered across a multitude of organisations and platforms. This lack of centralised knowledge and standardised data hampers the industry’s ability to address and capitalise on textile waste.

To tackle this issue, Fashion for Good, with catalytic funding from Laudes Foundation and IDH, has partnered with Reverse Resources, Global Fashion Agenda, Circle Economy, and Accelerating Circularity – who actively address many facets of textile waste and leverage each other's diverse skill sets and wealth of information to create a tool consolidating the outcomes of individual research. This tool provides an overview of data points on waste quantities, types, compositions, and other insights, as well as links to the original studies. With information on waste attributes, data collection methodologies, organisations involved, and a lens on upcoming studies for a region, the tool empowers users of textile waste, as well as stakeholders looking to further the industry’s knowledge base.

With a lens on global hotspots of textile waste, as well as links to established resources for each region, strategies aimed at valorising waste become more attainable. For instance, recyclers can strategise their feedstock sourcing by gaining insights into waste streams and their specific characteristics. Governments can utilise this data to develop informed policies and regulations that encourage sustainable waste management practices. Fostering connections between stakeholders, both local and international, can help address operational challenges towards the advancement of circularity.

This initiative marks a significant step towards building a more transparent, collaborative, and circular fashion industry. By uniting key players from across the ecosystem, it is not only addressing the pressing issue of textile waste but also unlocking its potential as a resource. As the platform continues to grow, incorporating more data and insights from other organisations working on assessing waste in newer regions and different waste categories, the aim is to provide deeper clarity and drive meaningful change. Together, the way can be paved for a fashion industry that values sustainability, reduces waste, and contributes to a healthier planet for future generations.

Project Re:Claim, a joint venture between the Salvation Army Trading Company and Project Plan B, has been nominated for the Plastics Industry Awards 2024 in the "Recycler of the Year" category. Using an ISEC evo system from PURE LOOP to process used garments and other textiles, the project is Europe’s first polyester textile recycling system. The award ceremony will take place on 22 November in London.

The UK produces more than half a million tonnes of polyester textile waste every year. Project Re:Claim aims to recycle post-industrial and post-consumer clothing and textiles. The focus is on the recycling of post-industrial polyester from contract textiles for hospitals or hotels (e.g. bed and table linen), workwear and school uniforms, as well as promotional banners (e.g. printed sports banners). The fabrics and textiles come from controlled material streams (closed-loop systems), ensuring minimal impurities. The recycling technology used is an ISEC evo 302 E from PURE LOOP. This innovative technology, developed by the EREMA Group’s member, enables efficient production of high-quality rPET from textile waste.

Europe’s first polyester textile recycling system
The plant, installed at a Salvation Army Trading Company (SATCoL) processing centre in Kettering in early 2024, represents Europe’s first commercial scale polyester textile recycling system specialising in post-consumer polyester. SATCoL is the trading arm of The Salvation Army and UK’s largest charity owned textile collector.

Together with Project Plan B, a specialist in garment design with a focus on design for recycling, PURE LOOP optimised its integrated shredder-extruder combination ISEC evo for the specific requirements. "Plan B has a vision, and we are convinced something great can come out of it," emphasises Manfred Dobersberger, Managing Director at PURE LOOP. Thanks to the configuration of shredder and extruder on one drive shaft and the patented double feed ram system, the ISEC evo 302 E gently processes discarded polyester into rPET, which can be reused for new yarns and other products. "Up until now, polyester that had no useful life left would have been disposed of," explains Tim Cross, CEO of Project Plan B. "With the ISEC evo, we can now return textile waste as a valuable material back to the supply chains. It’s a carbon saving solution, and it plays a significant role in helping our collective journey to Net Zero."

Textile recycling: an industry with growth potential
The plant aims to recycle 2,500 tonnes of polyester in its first year, doubling this amount in the second year. In addition to the environmental benefits such as diverting unwearable textiles away from landfill, initial estimates indicate that the production of pellets from Project Re:Claim uses only one-tenth of the energy compared with pellets produced from virgin polyester. One prerequisite for this is an energy-efficient recycling machine such as the ISEC evo.

Europe’s textile sorting and recycling industry is currently experiencing an unprecedented crisis, even more significant than during the COVID-19 pandemic. The sector is under immense pressure due to several global disruptions, including the war in Ukraine, logistical challenges in Africa, and the rise of ultra-fast fashion.

As a result, there is an oversupply of used textiles and a sharp decline in demand from traditional export markets. The trade in used textiles between the EU and non-EU decreased from 464,993 tonnes in 2022 to 430,185 tonnes in 2023. Looking at Germany alone, the exports of used textiles to Ghana (one of Europe’s key export markets) have decreased from 7911.2 tonnes in 2020 to 4532.9 tonnes in 2023. Additionally, demand for recycled materials remains low: recycled cotton had an estimated production volume of 319 000 tonnes in 2023 (compared to 24.4 million tonnes of virgin cotton) globally.

Consequently, prices for second-hand textiles have plummeted, while the costs of collection, sorting, and recycling have skyrocketed. Since spring 2024, the prices for sorted second-hand garments no longer cover processing costs, leading to major cash flow problems for sorting operators. Warehouses are becoming overwhelmed, increasing the risk of textile waste being incinerated.

In a joint statement EuRIC Textiles and Municipal Waste Europe expressed their concerns about the development of Europe’s textiles sorting and recycling sector. They have clearly specified what support they expect from Brussel:

“We call on the EU to encourage Member States to lower VAT on textile repair, reuse, and recycling activities, within the existing VAT Directive framework, and explore the possibility of introducing a tax on new, petroleum-based materials. Such measures, if adopted at national levels, would incentivise the use of recycled materials and reduce the environmental impact of virgin textile production.

This situation is likely to raise processing costs for municipalities, potentially resulting in higher waste disposal fees for residents, with the fear that the textiles will be thrown in the residual waste instead. Downstream players in the recycling chain, such as tearing and spinning mills, are also feeling the strain, leading to significant staff cuts.

To avert widespread bankruptcies, immediate financial and legislative support is essential. Short-term financial incentives for EU companies that contribute significantly to a sustainable circular textile chain are needed to safeguard the industry from collapsing. Investment in recycling technologies and infrastructure, alongside targeted support for municipalities dealing with textile waste stagnation, is crucial. We urge the EU to facilitate public-private partnerships to foster innovation in textile recycling and to scale up recycling technologies. This will help increase Europe’s capacity to process textile waste sustainably and efficiently. A swift revision of the Waste Framework Directive (WFD) and rapid implementation of Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) schemes are also imperative.

In the mid-term, efforts should focus on making the textiles reuse and recycling sector competitive, in line with Commission President Ursula Von der Leyen’s ambition for a competitive and strong circular economy (through a future Clean Industrial Deal and Circular Economy Act). To reach this ambition, the EU needs to increase demand for recycled textiles, expand recycling capacity, and promote the use of sustainable materials through upcoming ecodesign requirements. We call for the mandatory inclusion of a percentage of recycled textile content (most preferably from post-consumer textiles) in all new textile products placed on the EU market, with a clear trajectory for increasing this percentage over the coming years. Without urgent action, Europe risks undermining its climate goals and jeopardising the future of its textile sorting and recycling industry.”

Global Fashion Agenda (GFA), supported by its Insight Partner, Maersk, has released a new report, Reverse Logistics for Circular Fashion Systems. The report expands on how fashion brands, retailers, value chain partners, and logistics providers can leverage reverse logistics to cultivate an effective and holistic circular fashion system.

The publication is the culmination of extensive research, including consultations with and input from eight experts from eight brands and organisations - Maersk, Nike, H&M Group, Target, PUMA Group, Ellen MacArthur Foundation, VF Corporation, and Circle Economy Foundation. It highlights the critical role of logistics in supporting fashion companies to adopt more circular systems by managing the reverse flow of materials and products from end-users, and returning them back into the system for resale, remaking or recycling, extending their lifecycle, maximising value, and minimising waste.

Over 520 global regulations are currently in place, urging companies to rethink their sourcing and design strategies, emphasising regionalisation and circularity. Moreover 45% of brands surveyed by Global Fashion Agenda and the United Nations Environment Programme earlier this year reported that they have set targets to derive at least 10% of their revenue from circular business models by 2040. However, despite the potential, the fashion industry lacks a comprehensive system for circularity, with current fragmented approaches failing to achieve commercial viability. Deeper collaboration with logistics partners can support more streamlined operations, while aiding compliance with tightening regulatory requirements and in demonstrating positive environmental impacts.

To guide stakeholders, the publication outlines essential elements for implementing effective reverse logistics, including:

• Network design: Expanding reverse logistics beyond consumer returns to capture and valorise post-industrial textile waste flows and unsold goods.
• Financial ownership: Establishing clear financial models to define roles, responsibilities, and profit-sharing, enhancing collaboration and investment.
• Boosting collection volumes: Developing infrastructure for efficient collection and processing of textile waste, essential for scaling solutions and reducing recycled fibre costs.