From the Sector

• Harmful PFAS chemicals, used in thousands of consumer products, are shaping up to be the big environmental and health threat of our time. The EU is now the first in the world to propose a broad ban on these chemicals.
• Consumer brands worth more than €130 billion support the ban on PFAS.  
• Investors with assets in PFAS-producing companies are calling for an end to production.

Many companies are taking a stand against PFAS chemicals as the EU invites the public to give its opinions on the proposed ban on these harmful chemicals.

108 companies dedicated to phasing out PFAS chemicals from products and processes have joined the PFAS Movement, an advocacy campaign initiated by environmental NGO ChemSec that calls for comprehensive regulation of PFAS in the EU. The members comprise many well-known brands, such as Inditex, Urbanears and the Cookware Company, representing various industries— fashion, home goods, food, and personal care. The members are worth more than €130 billion in total revenue.

“A European ban on PFAS chemicals will have huge repercussions for all manufacturing industries and require much work for companies in the global supply chain. However, some parts of the industry oppose this ban, claiming that the change is too big to be justified. That’s why the support for a ban from such influential consumer brands as those in the PFAS Movement is so important. It’s a strong sign that businesses want to eliminate PFAS chemicals in products and processes”, says Anne-Sofie Bäckar, Executive Director at ChemSec.

A Hollywood Helping Hand
ChemSec’s PFAS Movement is not only supported by the brands but also by Hollywood actor Mark Ruffalo who became a PFAS activist after his involvement in the film Dark Waters. The film depicts the real-life events following the massive uncovering of PFAS contamination in the USA. As a result, several PFAS producers in the USA are now involved in multimillion-dollar lawsuits.

The health and environmental threats of PFAS, along with all the lawsuits, have also created attention among another influential group: institutional investors. Last year, 47 institutional investors with US$8 trillion in assets sent a letter to 54 chemical companies named by ChemSec, calling for them to halt the production of persistent “forever chemicals”.

The EU ban on PFAS
The proposed EU ban on PFAS is extensive and the first of its kind worldwide. The idea was initially initiated by Sweden, Denmark, the Netherlands, Germany and Norway, who have spent almost three years mapping the implications of a ban on PFAS chemicals in a dossier that expands over nearly 2000 pages. The proposal shows, among other things, that the emissions of PFAS were 75 000 tonnes in 2020. If this continues, the emissions are expected to sit at 4.4 million tonnes in 30 years. The emissions originate from the production and use of the many products that contain PFAS; furniture, cosmetics, electronics and many more.

UK advanced materials and technology firm Hypetex, a manufacturer of coloured carbon fibre, has appointed Michael Dowse as a Non-Executive Director and Board Member.

Dowse brings experiences across sport and retail, following leadership roles at some of the biggest sports organisations and companies in the world. He was a Global Director for Nike before becoming President and General Manager Outdoor Americas for Amer Sports, managing brands such as Salomon, Arc’Teryx and Suunto.

As President of Wilson Sporting Goods (2013-2019), Dowse led 1,500+ colleagues in delivering the company’s global strategy, corporate operations, and manufacturing across more than 160 countries. He then took up the position of Chief Executive Officer and Executive Director of the United States Tennis Association (2020-2022).

Dowse will join a group of advisors at Hypetex, which includes Board Chairman Neil MacDougall and former Diageo Chief Financial Officer Nick Rose. They will support CEO Marc Cohen and Chief Technology Officer Nigel Dunlea as they continue to expand the company’s presence in sport and other sectors worldwide.

Carbios announces its membership of the Ellen MacArthur Foundation’s Network. Carbios shares the Foundation’s commitment to accelerate the transition to a circular economy, especially in the areas of plastics and fashion. By joining the Ellen MacArthur Foundation’s Network, Carbios will connect with other leaders within the Foundation’s leading circular economy network of businesses, policymakers, academia, innovators, and thought leaders worldwide.

Carbios fully adheres to Ellen MacArthur Foundation’s vision for a circular economy for plastic. Its biorecycling and biodegradation technologies already match the actions defined by the Foundation:

• Eliminate all problematic and unnecessary plastic items
• Innovate to ensure that the plastics we do need are reusable, recyclable, or compostable
• Circulate all the plastic items we use to keep them in the economy and out of the environment

Through ambitious collaborative projects, plastics and fashion are two topic areas for the Foundation and are also at the heart of Carbios’ activities. Providing actionable solutions to support brands’ ambitious commitments for sustainable packaging and textile industries, Carbios has founded two consortiums: one in the packaging industry established with L’Oréal in 2019, which has since been joined by Nestlé Waters, PepsiCo and Suntory Beverage & Food Europe; another created in 2022 in the textile industry with apparel and fashion brands On, Patagonia, PUMA, PVH Corp. and Salomon. Together, the consortium members develop solutions promoting the recyclability and circularity of their products.

Joining the Ellen MacArthur Foundation’s Network takes Carbios’ circular economy actions one step further. Carbios recently underscored its commitment to circularity and environmental responsibilities by publishing its first Sustainability Report at the end of 2022^[1]. In 2019, Carbios’ biorecycling and biodegradable solutions were among the first innovations to be labelled “Efficient Solution” by the Solar Impulse Foundation^[2].

^[1] Cf. press release dated 15 December 2022
^[2] The Solar Impulse Foundation has identified over a thousand clean and profitable solutions that are economically viable and can be implemented on a large scale.

• At end 2022, Carbios has 336 titles worldwide divided into 53 patent families for its innovation in enzymatic recycling of PET plastics and fibers, and its PLA biodegradation technology
• Carbios’ team of Intellectual Property experts is dedicated to protecting its innovations

 
Carbios has doubled its number of issued patents since the last review published at the end of 2020. Carbios (and its subsidiary Carbiolice) currently holds 336 titles worldwide divided into 53 patent families.  In 2022, several titles protecting the proprietary PET-degrading enzymes were granted in countries of interest such as the United States and also in Asian countries including Indonesia, South Korea, China, Japan and India.  Carbios has also obtained grants within its patent families protecting the biodegradable plastics production process, notably the masterbatch containing the enzyme or its production process.
 
Carbios is expanding its intellectual property portfolio in regions and countries where there is strong demand for its disruptive technologies, notably :

• in Europe: 40 European titles, which could be granted in the 39 member states of the European Patent Organization
• in North America: 41 titles in the United States and 23 in Canada
• in Asia: 152 titles, including 37 in China, 27 in Japan and 24 in India

Carbios also has 14 patent applications that may be extended to other countries or regions of the world in the coming years.

“Over the past two years, we have mainly focused on strengthening the protection of our PET biorecycling process and its proprietary enzymes,” commented Lise LUCCHESI, Director of Intellectual Property at Carbios. “For the coming years, we will continue to consolidate the protection of this process, and that of our PLA biodegradation process, by filing new patent applications. We will also actively follow up on our filed patent applications in order to obtain granted patents.”
 
“Since the beginning of Carbios, the R&D and Intellectual Property departments have worked hand in hand to ensure maximum protection of our enzymes and processes,” commented Alain Marty, Chief Scientific Officer at Carbios.  “These continued efforts to obtain extensive international protection are crucial to safeguard our innovations and ensure the industrial deployment of our technologies.”

The Organic Cotton & Textiles Conference, taking place in Indore, India over three days, from February 27-March 1^st is set to bring together a diverse group of key players from every part of the textile supply chain. Farmers, farm groups, industry representatives, non-profits, academics, suppliers, brands, certifiers, government representatives and policymakers will join nearly 200 guests at the multi-day event. The aim is to foster collaboration, explore innovative ideas, listen to those on the ground and focus discussions to develop a shared vision to boost the organic textile supply chain worldwide.

Co-hosted by  OCA, GOTS, and IFOAM - Organics International, the conference will address a range of subjects including social conditions, transparency through innovation, scaling up organic through investment, as well as sessions tackling certification, decent work and environmental impacts. The event also gives voice to farmers, who join as panellists, in a dedicated Q&A session with seven organic cotton farmers from the region. On the third day, organised by OCA, the organic farmers will welcome attendees to their communities during field trips west to Petlawad to witness organic practices at ground level.

“By addressing these important issues and fostering a dialogue between participants, the conference aims to develop innovative solutions that can drive progress and growth in the sector", says Bart Vollaard, Executive Director of OCA. "We are thrilled to be joining forces with GOTS and IFOAM to create positive change in the organic textile sector."

“Together with IFOAM - Organics International and OCA, GOTS wants to increase visibility of organic and at the same time enhance integrity of organic fibres and textiles. This conference shall serve to strengthen the sector by addressing obstacles and work on effective solutions, in consultation with all relevant and committed stakeholders”, notes Claudia Kersten, Managing Director of GOTS.

Sarah Compson of the IFOAM - Organics International World Board adds “Organic agriculture directly addresses some of the most pressing challenges of our time. IFOAM - Organics International is delighted to collaborate with OCA and GOTS to bring together people from across the whole textile sector and address the barriers and opportunities for scaling organic cotton production worldwide.”

With a strong line-up of notable speakers and guests in a supportive and engaging atmosphere, and a unique approach that connects participants from every step of the supply chain, the Organic Cotton & Textiles Conference is set to be a valuable and transformative event for key stakeholders involved in the organic textile industry.

Global Fashion Summit, a leading international forum for sustainability in fashion, will convene core stakeholders across the fashion ecosystem and parallel industries to drive tangible action on social and environmental sustainability. The Summit is presented by Global Fashion Agenda (GFA). GFA is a non-profit organisation that is accelerating the transition to a net positive fashion industry, under the patronage of HRH The Crown Princess of Denmark. Global Fashion Summit: Copenhagen Edition 2023 will take place on 27-28 June in Copenhagen, Denmark.

The theme of Global Fashion Summit: Copenhagen Edition 2023 is ‘Ambition to Action’. Under this premise, the Summit will present content experiences focused on tangible impact.

The theme will underly all elements of the Summit and Main Stage speakers will showcase inspiring thought leadership for accelerated change by exploring a matrix of interconnected topics. The 2023 Copenhagen Edition will build on more than a decade’s worth of Summit guidance and outcomes by dedicating even more focus towards action-oriented workshops and case studies. Through these formats, the forum will demonstrate tangible learnings and concrete recommendations that can help drive implementation.
 
The forum will also host strategic roundtable meetings with the aim to mobilise industry leaders to build alliances with solution providers, policy makers, investors and other industry stakeholders and implement immediate solutions. Such alliances can set in motion progress towards a net positive industry. With upcoming policy expected to influence the fashion industry even further this year, the Summit will shed light on the ongoing pieces of legislation currently under discussion both within the EU and worldwide.

This year’s Global Fashion Summit: Copenhagen Edition is supported by Principal Sponsor, Maersk. A globally renowned leader in logistics that aims to deliver a more connected, agile and sustainable future for global logistics. Maersk will support the Summit's agenda to accelerate industry transformation by highlighting how logistics can help the fashion and lifestyle industry in reaching their sustainability goals.

Additionally, the Innovation Forum will present a curated exhibition of other leading sustainable solutions. Summit attendees can meet with exhibitors covering the entire value chain – from innovative materials to end-of-use solutions. Innovation Forum Matchmaking will enable small and large fashion businesses to advance their sustainability journey, by providing the unique opportunity to be matched with relevant solution providers. 

Automotive supplier, Yanfeng has been awarded a second consecutive A−rating by Carbon Disclosure Project (CDP) for the group's global leadership in transparency and action on climate change in 2022. Nearly 15,000 companies were rated based on data which they submitted to the organization. Yanfeng also received an Environmental Leadership Award by CDP China

CDP is a non-profit organization which operates a global disclosure system to enable investors, companies, cities, states, and regions to manage their environmental impacts. Every year, several thousand companies worldwide are analyzed about their strategic approach to the challenges of climate change and their climate management activities are rated on the basis of a comprehensive list of criteria. CDP’s annual environmental disclosure and rating process is widely recognized as the gold standard for corporate environmental transparency.

Yanfeng improved its scores in value chain engagement and climate-related requirements for suppliers, as well as targets for increasing low-carbon energy consumption or production.
“As our company-wide target for carbon neutrality, we aim to achieve 100% of our total energy consumption from renewable energy sources by 2030,” said Gunnar Büchter, Vice President of Global Sustainability at Yanfeng. All European plants converted to renewable energy by the beginning of 2022, and other regions also increased their utilization of renewable energy sources. Significant progress has been made in China. By end of 2021 a total of 30% of energy came from renewable sources.

Majocchi, an Italian textile manufacturer, reports that it has achieved functional and visual appeal with its key fabrics since installing Baldwin Technology Co. Inc.’s corona surface treatment technology.  

Based in Tavernerio (Como), Majocchi has a history of being a technological innovator in the textile industry. Within a decade of its conception in 1941, Majocchi became a global supplier of waterproof cotton for rainwear manufacturers. In the 1960s, the company began producing nylon and technical fabrics, which paved the way for it to become a leading provider of textiles for urban fashion, technical workwear and the military today.

Majocchi has partnered with U.S -based Baldwin Technology Co. to utilize its unrivaled corona surface-treatment technology to produce superior wettability and adhesion.  

Corona treatment is a technique that temporarily modifies a substrate’s surface tension  properties. The corona oxidation process improves the penetration and absorption of liquids on cellulosic and synthetic fabrics. Utilizing corona treatment before resin application on fabrics such as lycra and nylon facilitates superior adhesion and resin distribution. As a result, corona-treated fabrics provide exceptional color and tonal quality.  

Majocchi uses Baldwin’s Corona Pure Model to apply polyurethane and acrylic-based coatings to its fabrics. The system allows Majocchi to administer a controllable, uniform coating to achieve the desired functionality and aesthetics.

The system is 2,000 millimeters wide with a discharging station and four ceramic electrodes designed for textile applications with the flexibility of customizing plasma dosage for a given fabric structure, width and process speed. The Corona Pure model allows for fabric treatment up to 300 gr/m² in thickness. The system is customizable, with single-sided and dual-sided treatment capabilities. The “Easy Change” feature allows for a seamless replacing of electrodes and rapid cleaning and removal of fiber and dust residue, maintaining optimal exhaust air flow. The treatment system is built with a swiveling housing mechanism, which provides clearance for changes in textile thickness and protects the ceramic electrodes.

The viscose fibre manufacturer Kelheim Fibres - exclusively using FSC® or PEFCTM certified pulps exclusively from sustainably managed sources - welcomes the preliminary political agreement reached between the European Parliament and the Council on an EU regulation on deforestation-free supply chains. The new rules, adopted at the end of 2022, are intended to prevent goods that cause forest degradation or deforestation from being placed on the EU market.

As one of the largest economies worldwide, the EU is a major consumer of wood-based raw materials. Therefore, the new law can significantly contribute to reducing global deforestation and forest degradation as well as protecting threatened forest areas.

“Wood is an incredibly versatile and valuable renewable resource and the basis for countless products. Our viscose fibres are just one example – they offer an environmentally friendly alternative to synthetic materials in various applications and are thus a promising material for the future. Of course, this only applies if the production of our raw materials does not take place at the expense of our earth's natural forest resources. These forests are a bastion of biodiversity and climate protection for our entire planet and must be protected at all costs. No one can escape this responsibility," says Craig Barker, CEO at Kelheim Fibres.

Avgol® has announced a significant investment in a new high-speed, high-capacity flexible multiple beam production line at its facility in Mocksville, USA.

Avgol, an Indorama Ventures Limited company, is a leader in the hygiene market with a comprehensive range of ultra-lightweight spun-melt nonwoven fabrics. This new, sixth line at the company’s facility in Mocksville will see Avgol investing in new Reicofil 5 (RF5) technology and underlines the company’s commitment to the region as a domestic supplier. The investment will deliver biocomponent and corresponding high-loft capabilities, with the line producing materials for applications that meet the needs of upper tier products for Hygiene customers.

As part of the investment, Avgol is also introducing extra capacity for meltblown production, ensuring a continuous supply of this critical material for both the region and customers worldwide.

Another aspect of the investment includes the addition of cutting-edge lamination capabilities, which enables Avgol to offer enhanced performance products into the existing markets the company serves, as well as to explore new opportunities in other markets.