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08.02.2023

6 out of 10 consumers pay attention to sustainability criteria when shopping

ESG aspects are most important to consumers when it comes to food and clothing. Young people in particular demand information and transparency: sustainability labels, certifications and reports ensure trust. For retailers and manufacturers, sustainability is becoming a must.

Under what conditions are the cows kept whose milk I drink? Does the manufacturer of my new T-shirt tolerate child labor? Does the retailer I trust deal fairly with employees and business partners? The majority of Germans ask themselves questions like these before making a purchasing decision. When shopping, 59 percent of consumers always or at least frequently pay attention to the ecological, economic or social sustainability of retailers and manufacturers. Among those under 35, the figure is even hugher with two-thirds, and among those over 55, one in two. These are the findings of a representative survey of 1,000 people in Germany commissioned by the auditing and consulting firm PwC Germany.

ESG aspects are most important to consumers when it comes to food and clothing. Young people in particular demand information and transparency: sustainability labels, certifications and reports ensure trust. For retailers and manufacturers, sustainability is becoming a must.

Under what conditions are the cows kept whose milk I drink? Does the manufacturer of my new T-shirt tolerate child labor? Does the retailer I trust deal fairly with employees and business partners? The majority of Germans ask themselves questions like these before making a purchasing decision. When shopping, 59 percent of consumers always or at least frequently pay attention to the ecological, economic or social sustainability of retailers and manufacturers. Among those under 35, the figure is even hugher with two-thirds, and among those over 55, one in two. These are the findings of a representative survey of 1,000 people in Germany commissioned by the auditing and consulting firm PwC Germany.

Sustainability is no longer a question of "if", but "how".
"Sustainability has become mainstream in recent years. For companies, paying attention to sustainability in their supply chains has already become a must," comments Dr. Christian Wulff. The Head of Retail and Consumer Goods at PwC Germany is convinced that companies will already have to give good reasons in the near future if they do not pay attention to the environment, social aspects and good corporate governance when producing a product. "The issue of sustainability is therefore no longer a question of whether, but of how," the retail expert continues.

Sustainability includes various aspects in the three areas of environment, social and sustainable governance (ESG). In the case of environmental sustainability, the focus is on issues relating to animal welfare - such as the conditions in which animals are kept or animal testing - and the use of recyclable materials. 40 percent of Germans would like to be informed about this before making a purchase. In the social sphere, the majority of respondents would like to know whether retailers and manufacturers comply with human rights (58 percent) - for example, whether they tolerate forced or child labor in their value chains. In terms of governance, one in two respondents would like to know about supply chains and be able to trace products before making a purchase.

Sustainability is particularly important for food
How closely consumers look at sustainability also depends on the product: For example, sustainability is particularly important to them when it comes to food. 81 percent of Germans pay attention to at least one of the three ESG criteria when buying food, i.e. environment, social issues or good corporate governance. But these criteria are also relevant when buying textiles: As many as 63 percent say they look at how sustainably the item was produced when buying clothing or shoes. While environmental aspects play the biggest role for food (62 percent), consumers are paying more attention to social aspects for clothing, shoes and accessories (52 percent).

Almost every second person has recently switched to sustainable products
The growing importance of ESG aspects in the purchasing behavior of German consumers is also evidenced by the shifts toward buying sustainable products. The trend toward sustainable products is clearest in the case of food: 45 percent of respondents state that they have consciously switched to more sustainable products within the past two years. By contrast, only 17 percent admit to switching (back) to less sustainable products, with one in three stating a lack of financial resources as the reason.

For just under half of those surveyed, a possible switch to more sustainable products would be supported by better availability in stationary retail. Legal regulations are also seen as helpful, both in terms of product labeling (38 percent) and for the production process (37 percent). More eye-catching product placement in stores would also help (37 percent).

Young people in particular demand transparency and education
Consumers' need for transparency in ESG matters is significant: According to the survey, almost three quarters of Germans obtain information about environmental sustainability issues at least occasionally. Two-thirds research aspects of social sustainability. A good half regularly find out about sustainable corporate governance.

Age has a major influence on how intensively people deal with the issue: While 80 percent of 16- to 24-year-olds find out about the environmental aspects of a product before buying it, only 59 percent of those over 65 do. "Younger people in particular are actively informing themselves and demanding transparency around ESG criteria," sums up Christian Wulff.

Consumers want information on packaging and online
To meet this need for information, the PwC expert advises manufacturers and retailers to provide detailed information about ESG aspects of products, especially online. "Keeping the associated, significantly increasing flood of data up to date at all times is increasingly becoming a challenge for companies that can only be solved by significant investments in new technologies."

Consumers agree on what companies can do to lend more credibility to their sustainability activities: A solid two-thirds consider recognized sustainability labels, certifications or independently audited sustainability reports to be suitable for credibly communicating activities in terms of ESG. "The results of our survey show that labels and independent certifications are very important in gaining the trust of customers. It is therefore worthwhile to have ESG measures confirmed by external organizations," says Christian Wulff.

Retailers and manufacturers should focus on transparency
"Manufacturers and retailers are faced with the task of ensuring a high level of transparency with regard to the sustainability of their products. This calls for honesty, but also creativity: In the case of fashion, for example, it is conceivable to trace the individual stages of the supply chain in detail and to show the costs incurred in the process. In this way, consumers can understand exactly how a price comes about," concludes Christian Wulff.

Source:

PwC / Textination

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02.03.2021

Study on Purchasing Behavior during the Corona Crisis in Germany, Austria, Switzerland and Sweden

Rogator / exeo investigate for the second time the purchasing behavior during the Corona crisis in Germany, Austria, Switzerland and Sweden ("OpinionTRAIN") and presented the results:

Rogator / exeo investigate for the second time the purchasing behavior during the Corona crisis in Germany, Austria, Switzerland and Sweden ("OpinionTRAIN") and presented the results:

  • Declining frequency of visits to discounters and more visits to hypermarkets
  • Significant shift in consumer behavior: More spending on groceries
  • Dynamic pricing is rejected by consumers
  • Online retail: The crisis winner (especially among younger consumers)

Supermarkets and hypermarkets have benefited from the Corona crisis in multiple ways. Firstly, the spending on groceries by German households has risen significantly (more home office, less traveling, more time spent with family and on cooking). Secondly, in 2020, the sales market share of discounters fell by around 1 percentage point to 42.1%, while full-range retailers gained 1.5 percentage points (to 34.8% market share).

“With the continuously growing competition and the existing distribution struggles, it is not surprising if the news on the grocery trade increasingly contain the tenor price war again in the new year. The increase in VAT at the beginning of the year has speeded up the price competition”, says Johannes Hercher, CEO of Rogator AG and co-author of the OpinionTRAIN study

An overview of the results:

Declining frequency of visits to discounters and more visits to hypermarkets
While shopping in all four countries surveyed most frequently took place in supermarkets in the past 2 months (Visits in the past 2 months: Germany 81%, Austria 86%, Switzerland 79%, and Sweden 79%), Germany has the highest percentage of respondents (71%), compared to other countries, who purchased groceries at discounters. Against all expectations, the leading discounters such as Aldi and Lidl have performed relatively worse than the full-range retailers during the Corona crisis. Compared to the first data collection (Apr./May2020), the share of consumers with purchases in discounters in Germany decreased from 74% to currently 71%, the share of shoppers in supermarkets remained unchanged (81%), and the consumer rate for hypermarkets (e.g. Real, Kaufland) increased significantly (from 34% to 44%). While especially older consumers are staying more loyal to the discounter, the consumer rate in the <30 age group is particularly low at 53%. Instead, online grocery shopping shows a high relevance among younger consumers. Almost one in three respondents said, that they had ordered groceries online in the past 2 months.

Significant shift in consumer behavior: More spending on groceries
The crisis situation is leading to massive changes in purchasing behavior. In almost all types of grocery shops, the frequency of visits has decreased, except for online shopping and organic food stores. The reaction patterns of the consumers are becoming increasingly entrenched. As already observed in Apr./May 2020, consumers are going less frequently to grocery stores, but are purchasing more items per visit. In many cases, the discounters do not meet the consumers' need for complete purchases. This is bitter in many respects. In Germany, for example, around a quarter of respondents say, that their spending on food increased during the Corona crisis (5 % are assuming a decrease), while this is the exact opposite (8% increase and 21% decrease in expenses) for clothing (textile, without sports). These figures reflect a massive shift in consumption. This is an indicator that Corona has also changed the statistical market basket. For 2020, the inflation rate for groceries is reported at 2.4%. In this case, most of the change in spending habits can be explained by a quantity effect.

Dynamic pricing is rejected by consumers
Since price flexibility is being discussed in retail as the new "silver bullet to increase margins," the OpinionTRAIN study took a closer look at consumers' views on dynamic pricing ("when demand goes up, the price goes up; when demand goes down, the price goes down"). Results: The consumers' enthusiasm for dynamic pricing in retailing is rather limited. This is not a German phenomenon. In all four countries, the rejection of dynamic pricing is greater than the approval. For retail companies, the "total rejection" segment presents a major threat in particular. This group includes about one-third of consumers and rejects flexible pricing in all 20 product categories presented. Many consumers clearly long for continuity, especially in times of significant changes in terms of retail prices. Although consumers who have already had experience of dynamic pricing (prices can change every hour) in online retailing are more relaxed about the issue, the implementation of dynamic pricing nevertheless involves a significant risk of damage to the customer relationship and a lasting loss of trust.

Online retail: The crisis winner (especially among younger consumers)
The reinforcement of online sales observed in recent years is receiving a new boost due to Corona. The shift in purchasing in favor of online retailing is evident in all four countries, with the strongest showing in Sweden. Here, 40% of consumers say that they ordered more online during the Corona crisis (8% less). Similar results, slightly more moderate, are also seen in Germany (29% more, 9% less ordered online). The demand shift in favor of online purchasing is particularly strong among younger consumers under the age of 30, while it is relatively weak among the age group of 60+.

“It is becoming increasingly apparent, that Corona will also have a medium-term impact on demand behavior. For instance, consumer preferences also seem to diverge more along age segments: On the one hand, the younger consumers are directing towards omnichannel shopping, where even fluctuating prices are not a major problem. And on the other hand, the older consumers prefer in-store shopping and have a strong desire for stable and reliable prices”, summarizes Prof. Dr. Andreas Krämer, CEO of exeo Strategic Consulting AG and professor at the University of Applied Sciences in Iserlohn as co-author of the OpinionTRAIN study.

Source:

Rogator AG

CRISIS HITS RUSSIAN FASHION MARKET HARD © derProjektor / pixelio.de
24.05.2016

CRISIS HITS RUSSIAN FASHION MARKET HARD

  • Sales decreases
  • Middle Price Segments affected most
  • Online Sale of Clothing growing

Moscow (GTAI) - Sales of apparel and home furnishings will continue to decline in 2016. Lower real income leads to falling demand. Russian customers buy fewer clothes and are increasingly watching the price. Most sales shrink in the medium price segment. Fashion chains react on the declining market volume by closing stores and focus on profitable locations. In contrast, the online trade is growing. In comparison to the year before Russia's clothing market shrank in 2015 year by 9% to a volume of Rubles 1.4 billion. Converted into USD the decline was even 43%. The discrepancy between the value in Rubles and in USD is due to the drastically fallen value of the Russian currency.

  • Sales decreases
  • Middle Price Segments affected most
  • Online Sale of Clothing growing

Moscow (GTAI) - Sales of apparel and home furnishings will continue to decline in 2016. Lower real income leads to falling demand. Russian customers buy fewer clothes and are increasingly watching the price. Most sales shrink in the medium price segment. Fashion chains react on the declining market volume by closing stores and focus on profitable locations. In contrast, the online trade is growing. In comparison to the year before Russia's clothing market shrank in 2015 year by 9% to a volume of Rubles 1.4 billion. Converted into USD the decline was even 43%. The discrepancy between the value in Rubles and in USD is due to the drastically fallen value of the Russian currency. For the textile and clothing industry, the Ruble devaluation means a fundamental change in the general framework: more expensive imports, lower personnel costs in Russia and rising export opportunities.
 
Customers change from the middle to the lower price segment
In addition, the real income of the Russian population declines and thus the purchasing power. Russian customers buy less clothing and watch more and more the price. Sales shrink at the most in the medium price segment. Many customers orientate themselves on low-price segments (mass market), which will increase in 2016 by 5 to10% to a share of 65 to 70%, the Fashion Consulting Group predicts. The proportion of the premium and luxury segment remains unchanged.
An average Russian household has cut its spending on clothing and home textiles by 30 to 50%, experts estimate. Especially the suppliers of imported textiles and clothing got to feel this, their prices had to be increased most, what damaged the business of foreign brand suppliers. In 2015 the Russian imports of textiles and clothing fell by 25%. This tendency continues in 2016.
    
Distribution networks in the stationary trade become thinned 
Because of the price pressure manufacturers and retailers in the fashion market shorten their staff, negotiate discounts for the shop rental, reduce the collections, simplify cuts and save on quality. While many Russian brands used to buy their materials in the EU and in Turkey, designers and producers now can only afford cheap synthetic fabrics from China. The advertising budgets were slashed in 2015 by 40 to 45%. Moreover clothing suppliers react by closing stores and concentrate on most profitable locations. Since 2014 more than eleven international brands have left the Russian market. These include Gerry Weber from the middle price segment, Laura Ashley, Chevignon and Seppälä; from the mass market segment Esprit, New Look, OVS, River Iceland and Wendys.  
 
Marks & Spencer closed 3% of its stores, Mango 7%, Gloria Jeans 12%. The largest drop in the number of stores are reported from the brands Vis-a-Vis (-65%), Motivi (-40%), Savage (-29%) and Incity (-17%). Maratex closed its franchise stores for clothing brands like Esprit, New Look, OVS and River Iceland 2015 in Russia. The Finnish Stockmann sold its seven department stores in Russia for EUR 5 million to Reviva Holdings Ltd. (owner of the franchise store chain Debenhams) and gave up the business of its brands Lindex and Seppälä.
 
Adidas has closed 2015 167 of its 1,100 shops in Russia, planned are 200. The German sportswear manufacturer acquired 2015 the central warehouse Chekhov-2 with an area of 120,000 square meters in the Moscow region. The purchase price is supposed at a total between USD 70 and 100 million. The Finnish Kesko informed in February 2016 that it wants to sell the Russian Intersport chain because of poor financial results.

The retail chain Modny continent (brands: Incity, Deseo) reduced the number of its stores by 35. At the end of the first quarter of 2016 they still owned 301 stores. The Melon Fashion Group disposed in 2015 27 unprofitable stores, for this they opened 37 new ones. Melon owned December 31st 604 stores throughout Russia (befree 234, Zarina 203, Love Republic 167), of which 134 are franchise stores (befree 56, Zarina 44, Love Republic 34). A new concept of the stores - larger retail space and more modern design – should help against the crisis.
The Spanish designer brand Desigual closed its Russian stores end of September 2015, but they remain on the market in multibrand stores. A similar course is followed by other brands. 

Eleven fashion brands enter the Russian market in the first half year of  2016
A small gleam of hope: Eleven fashion brands announced to enter the Russian market in the first half year of 2016. This happened already at the end of 2015 with budget brands like Cortefiel, Superdry and Violetta by Mango. H & M, Monki, Uniqlo and Forever 21 want to continue to expand in Russia.
Already in 2015 the number of H & M stores grew in Russia by 35% to 96 stores. On April 28th 2016 the menswear house Henderson opened a new salon in the shopping center "Zelenopark" in Zelenograd near Moscow. With this Henderson (brands: Henderson, Hayas) is now represented in 164 major shopping centers in 56 Russian cities. Hugo Boss inaugurated on April 8th 2016 a new shop in the Outlet Village Pulkovo.

The vertically integrated chain Gloria Jeans has changed it’s headquarter at the beginning of 2016 from Rostov-on-Don to Moscow and rented there 3,500 square meters in the Arma plant. Until the end of 2016 Gloria Jeans plans to extend on 5,000 square meters and further to 10,000 square meters until 2017. The capital should serve as a gateway to the world market: Gloria Jeans plans to open an office in Hong Kong. The company has eight regional offices and two large logistics complexes in Novosibirsk and Novoshakhtinsk.

International brands, planning to enter the Russian market in first half of 2016
Nr. Brand Country Profile Shopping mall Price segment
1 Demurya     France/Russia Clothing Smolenskij Passash Premium
2 John Varvatos USA Clothing Crocus City Mall Premium
3 Il Gufo Italy Clothing for children ZUM Premium
4 Barbour United Kingdom Clothing GUM upper middle
5 Armani Exchange Italy Clothing Mega, Aviapark middle
6 Veta Estland Clothing Streetretail, Kamenoostrowskij middle
7 Love Stories Netherlands Underwear Einkaufszentrum "Modny Seson" middle
8 Victorias Secret Pink USA Underwear, clothing Evropejskij middle
9 Hunkemöller Germany Underwear Mega middle
10 Undiz France Underwear Mega lower
11 Aigle France Clothing, shoes Street retail, Olimpijskij pr-t middle

Source: Retail.ru

Online sale with clothing is growing – Chinese suppliers are expanding
In contrast to the declining sales in the stationary apparel trade, the demand in outlets and on the Internet is rising. The number of visits and the average amount of receipts at the Fashion House Outlet Centre Moscow has risen by two times since July 2013, director Brendon O'Reily reports. The Fashion House Group offers online shopping since 2016.

The association of Internet trading companies (http://www.akit.ru) estimates that sales on the Internet in 2015 were Rubles 760 billion (+ 7%). The share of clothing and footwear was 35 %. Already in 2014 the online trade had grown by a third. Online stores are operated by KupiVIP, Lamoda and Finn Flare. Alone at KupiVIP the number of orders increased by 45% to a volume of Rubles 16.5 billion in 2015.

Manufacturers and distributors therefor boost the online trade. The government wants to promote the export of Russian goods and is planning a large Internet trading platform. Models are Alibaba (China) and JD.com. However Russian customers are buying increasingly from Asian webshops. Only in 2014 the popularity of online orders in China increased threefold.

Contac addresses
Fashion Consulting Group
(Consulting, Marketing, PR)
125009 Moskau, Maly Gnezdnikowskij pereulok 4
Tel.: 007 495/629 74 25, -629 76 23
E-Mail: info@fashionconsulting.ru, Internet: http://www.fashionconsulting.ru

Russian Buyers Union
119034 Moskau, ul. Prechistenka 40/2, Gebäude 3, Büro 110
Tel.: 007 499/350 51 40
E-Mail: info@buyersunion.ru, relations@buyersunion.ru
Internet: http://www.buyersunion.ru