From the Sector

Electrically conductive prints on textiles are the basis for functional textiles with electronic functions, so-called smart textiles. Conductive inks and binders must be well matched to ensure permanent conductivity even under external mechanical influences such as stretching, pressure and bending. The DITF are working on new ink formulations that meet these requirements.

Sports, fashion and the automotive industry - textiles with integrated electronics are used in many areas of everyday life. Textile-integrated electronics help monitor human vital parameter and performance data, and enable the fashion industry to integrate interactive elements into clothing. It is used in a variety of ways in the automotive industry, where it enhances passenger comfort and safety.

The most common conductive components used in textiles to date are wrapped yarns and tension-relieved conductive yarns arranged in loops. They ensure a reliable flow of electricity even in textiles subject to high mechanical stress. Their production is complex. As a result, they are expensive and only partially suitable for the mass market. Printing conductive structures on textile surfaces using screen printing or chromojet technology, a digital spray printing technique, is much more cost-effective.

However, there are several challenges in producing printed conductive textiles. One of the biggest difficulties is ensuring the conductivity of the printed materials while maintaining the flexibility and softness of the textile. In addition, the durability of the prints can deteriorate, especially with frequent washing or mechanical stress. Stretching or movement can cause the prints to break or tear. Electrical conductivity is often impaired even under low mechanical stress, when the stretching of the conductive layer is not reversible. The adhesion between the print application and the textile can weaken with repeated stretching. This results in poor long-term stability. The integration of electronic elements into textiles is also often hampered by the fact that the connection between the conductive elements and the electronic components is prone to failure.

The DITF are working on new solutions to address these challenges. The Color- and Functional-Printing Working Group is working on new ink and paste formulations based on conductive particles and elastic binders. The aim is to improve the elongation behavior of prints while maintaining good electrical conductivity. The elastic properties of the binder are largely determined by the auxiliaries and additives used. The DITF determine the interactions between these components and derive knowledge for the formulation of new elastic and highly conductive inks.

The hysteresis properties of new ink formulations are of central importance. Hysteresis refers to the ability of a material to maintain its properties under repeated strain or stress. Well-matched hysteresis supports the conductivity of printed structures even under continuous mechanical stress. Suitable materials can adapt to the movement of the textile without compromising the conductive properties.

The goal of the research team at the DITF is to expand the knowledge of the interactions between conductive particles and binders, between additives and textile auxiliaries, in order to produce highly conductive inks and pastes. This will make it possible to produce the best possible and most resistant print coatings for different textile substrates and different applications, enabling reliable conductivity.

Under these conditions, the costs for mass production of textile electronics can be reduced.

The UK’s leading contemporary fashion and lifestyle show, Scoop announces an exciting move to Olympia National Kensington, London for their upcoming S/S ’26 show taking place 13-15 July 2025.

A beautifully renovated heritage building with a serious design pedigree, having housed iconic fashion events over its 100-year history, Olympia National Kensington will provide the perfect backdrop for Scoop to expand their repertoire of emerging and exclusive designers in a more elevated and spacious venue.  Scoop’s Founder and Managing Director Karen Radley says, “We’re always seeking the new, and our new home will soon unveil its most beautiful incarnation yet. We can’t wait to welcome you to this exciting new chapter!”

This landmark season, ‘For Fashionable People’ will see Scoop walking on sunshine with an electric mix of fashion, lifestyle and iconic art and culture that captures the energy and joie de vivre at the heart of the show. While the details are kept a closely guarded secret Scoop S/S ’26 will embrace joy and optimism, celebrating the feel good in their new home at Olympia National Kensington.

Radley has always stood proudly at the forefront of unveiling emerging designers from around the globe and perfectly curating a show that reflects the retail environment giving Scoop its distinct character. Radley comments, “This season at Scoop will be a true breath of fresh air. Buyers will walk into our sunshine filled! new home at Olympia National Kensington, to a showcase that celebrates emerging designers poised to have significant impact on the UK market.”

Recognised as a must-see on the international trade show circuit, Scoop will open its doors at Olympia National Kensington, this July with an edited line up of premium women’s fashion as well as luxury home, beauty, lifestyle and men’s collections.

Large-area filtration faces the stigma of high costs, maintenance efforts, and time-consuming changeover and cleaning activities. However, good filtration is unavoidable with increasing rPET proportions. So, BB Engineering has addressed these issues with its decades of experience in extrusion and filtration. The new COBRA filter combines continuous and automated large-area filtration with integrated intermediate filter cleaning – setting a new standard in efficiency, ease of use and resource saving, and finally meeting the demanding requirements of recycling processes.

Large-area fine filtration made for recycling
Recyclers are currently dealing with a dilemma when it comes to filtration. Increasing recycling quotas coupled with insufficient availability mean that lower input qualities are also being considered for recycling, resulting in more challenging contaminants. At the same time, higher-quality applications are being targeted, which further intensifies the requirement for fine filtration. There are systems for large quantities of contaminants, but they do not filter as finely as a candle filter. There are also candle filters that provide excellent filtration but cannot cope with high levels of contamination.

The new COBRA filter can do both. It was specially developed for demanding filtration tasks with high levels of contamination, particularly in PET recycling. Multitasking is the keyword. COBRA unites large-area fine filtration with simultaneous, fast and effortless cleaning, and is therefore able to handle higher contamination rates, which common candle filters would fail on. However, this allrounder can also be used for other applications, e.g. in synthetic fiber spinning.

Continuity and process stability thanks to automation
As a continuous filter, the COBRA filter has two filter inserts, one of which is always active in production mode and the other either in stand-by mode or in intermediate cleaning. The automated switchover ensures a smooth changeover between the inserts. The status of the filter inserts is constantly checked by the system and, if necessary, the COBRA filter automatically initiates the cleaning and changeover process. All the operator has to do is confirm this on the user interface – no further manual intervention is required. The process thus continues to run stably and safely without interruption. Operator-related deviations in the switching process, operating errors or delays, all of which could affect the process, cannot occur.

Effortless inline cleaning – effective and safe
The highlight of the COBRA filter is the integration of BBE’s White Filter Cleaning technology (WFC). This process enables absolutely chemical-free and environmentally friendly intermediate cleaning of the filter inserts using hot steam alone and extends the filter’s service life many times over. BBE has already had WFC in its product portfolio as a stand-alone solution for several years. Now, for the first time, the cleaning system is integrated directly into a filter, bringing additional advantages, like cleaning speed and wear-reduction. Production and cleaning becomes an alternating interaction. Only after multiple operating/cleaning cycles (the exact number depends on product and degree of soiling) is it necessary to completely remove the filter insert for a service check and full cleaning. The WFC cleaning process only takes around 10 hours, whereas conventional cleaning takes several days. Filtration and cleaning form a self-contained, automated system that guarantees process and operating safety in equal measure: The operator does not have to handle melt or chemicals.

Development goals: Simplified handling, economic efficiency
BBE focused on simplifying filter changes and cleaning processes through automation as well as significant savings in operating costs. And that has been successful. Comparing the COBRA filter with other fine filters with a throughput of 2000 kg/h reveals a saving of 40% in pure operating costs. This saving results from various aspects. One significant part of the savings comes from the reduction of melt loss through backflush-cycles. Another key point is the continuous operation with significantly longer service life thanks to the integrated cleaning with steam. This is linked to reduced use of spare parts and consumables due to the gentle treatment, conversion costs and a lower energy requirement, as no heating and cooling phases and generally lower cleaning temperatures are required. Costs of chemicals are completely eliminated. Automation reduces personnel costs due to the low operating effort and training requirements. In terms of operation, the COBRA filter is also very safe - the closed system of filtration and cleaning without chemicals eliminates many of the risks associated with conventional filters and cleaning methods, such as the risk of injury and fire.

The cost savings are even more far-reaching if you extend the consideration to the downstream processes. The outstanding cleaning performance of COBRA saves a great deal of effort, interruptions and further processing.

The new COBRA filter will be presented to the public for the first time at the PRSE in Amsterdam at the beginning of April.

The Cellulose Fibres Conference 2025 (CFC 2025), held on 12-13 March in Cologne, Germany, brought together industry leaders, innovators and researchers to explore the latest innovations and new technologies for fibres – in textiles, hygiene products and packaging. The conference has established itself as the leading international platform for the emerging cellulose fibre industry. Two days with high quality program and outstanding speakers highlighted the growing importance of addressing environmental concerns within the textile industry.

The main source for the production of staple fibres or filaments such as viscose, lyocell, modal or other types of new cellulose fibres is wood-based chemical pulp. At the same time, new sources such as agricultural wastes and fibres, paper grade pulp and recycled textiles are emerging on a global scale, with a variety of new sources and companies contributing new technologies, processing methods and ideas.

Biosynthetics, featured for the first time at the conference, drew significant attention. Experts discussed the challenges and opportunities of cellulose fibres and biosynthetics, with particular focus on scalability, biodegradability, and performance comparisons to conventional synthetic fibres from fossil origin.

Dynamic Engagement and Scientific Discourse
The CFC 2025 fostered discussions among attendees, with a strong emphasis on scientific advancements and sustainable practices. Participants actively engaged in sessions covering topics such as circular economy strategies fibre-to-fibre recycling from textile, marine biodegradability versus fibre microplastic formation, alternative feedstocks, and innovative technologies for pulp, fibres, biosynthetics, and yarns.

In order to support the development, innovation and market entry of cellulosic fibres, Dieter Eichinger, CIRFS (BE), presented a proposal for a new standard that includes all types of cellulosic fibres such as Viscose, Lyocell, Tencel, Modal, Cupra and new innovative fibres under the generic term "cellulose fibres". The proposal was widely supported by the participants. Anna Palmberg, IKEA (SE), also expressed a concrete interest in using more cellulose fibres in the future.

The event witnessed heightened activity on social media platforms, with delegates sharing insights, experiences, and key takeaways using the hashtag #CFC2025. This digital engagement extended the conference's reach, allowing a broader audience to participate in the discourse on sustainable textiles.

Innovation Award winner announced
The announcement of the "Cellulose Fibre Innovation of the Year 2025" award winners was undoubtedly one of the highlights of the conference. Sponsored by GIG Karasek, the award recognises groundbreaking developments in the field. Every year, the award recognises the three most promising innovations in the field of cellulose fibres, highlighting groundbreaking advancements and their potential impact. This year, for the first time, the award also offered the opportunity to recognise innovations in the field of biosynthetics. The top three outstanding technologies were honoured this year for their remarkable advancements. These three pioneers will certainly pave ways in the future of the sustainable fibres industry:

1. .SA-Dynamics (Germany): Cellulose Aerogel Textiles
   SA-Dynamics introduced revolutionary insulation materials made from 100% biodegradable cellulose aerogel fibres. These materials combine the flexibility of traditional fabrics with the superior thermal insulation properties of aerogels, offering a sustainable alternative to fossil-based and animal-derived insulation materials in textiles as well as in construction.  
2. Releaf Paper France (France): Releaf Fiber
   Releaf Paper France transforms urban fallen leaves into sustainable cellulose fibres, providing an eco-friendly alternative to traditional hardwood pulp. Their proprietary low-temperature extraction process yields high-quality fibres ideal for packaging materials, aligning with circular economy principles by repurposing urban leaf waste.
3. Uluu (Australia): Seaweed-Derived Biosynthetic Materials
   Uluu is set to replace plastics in textiles with natural PHA polymers, derived from farmed seaweed. In partnership with Deakin University, Uluu is developing textile fibres that perform like synthetic polyester but are biodegradable in various environments, eliminating persistent microplastic pollution in fashion. 

The GoodTextiles Foundation (GTF), in collaboration with its local partner Chetna, announces a new project at the Ashram Residential High School for Girls in Rasimetta Village, in the state of Telangana, India. The aim of the project is to empower over 545 female students by providing them with school supplies and digital access to education.

As part of this project, all pupils were provided with new school backpacks and reusable stainless steel water bottles. An additional 5% reserve was set aside for future enrolments. Another important part of the project was the complete refurbishment of the computer room. The existing 21 machines were extensively refurbished and returned to service. An uninterruptible power supply system (UPS) was installed to counteract the frequent power cuts in the region and to ensure smooth classroom operations.

In addition, an experienced computer teacher was hired for a two-year period. This teacher will provide the students with basic digital skills to improve their chances of further education and employment in the long term. These measures not only give students easy access to education but also provide them with the tools they need to succeed in an increasingly digital world.

The Ashram High School is located in a remote part of the state of Telangana. The GoodTextiles Foundation has been involved there for many years. In the past, 37 toilets have been renovated, access to clean drinking water has been provided and sports and recreation areas have been improved by levelling the ground.

With the current project, the GoodTextiles Foundation is sending out another strong signal of its commitment: sustainable support through education - with a long-term impact on the community. The GoodTextiles Foundation is supporting the project with around €14,840.00.

At the SaigonTex 2025 textile machinery exhibition which is taking place from April 9-12 in Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam, Monforts will highlight the benefits of its advanced finishing technologies for denim.

Over 900 Monforts THERMEX hotflue dyeing systems are now operational in the main textile producing countries, with many of them devoted to denim production, and a significant number already reaping the benefits of the Econtrol® and Econtrol®T-CA processes*.

Econtrol® is a continuous process for the dyeing of woven cotton and cellulosic fabrics in which reactive dyestuffs are fixed into the fabric in a one-step dyeing and drying operation with a controlled combination of steam and air. The entire pad-dry process takes just two-to-three minutes at a temperature of between 120-130°C and a relative humidity volume of 25-30%.

Monforts denim range concepts which are successfully running worldwide enable the processing of high-qualtiy and reproducible fabrics which are stretched and skewed far more gently than with conventional range combinations. The ‘double rubber’ version of a THERMEX range comprises two compressive shrinkage units and two felt calenders in line, for super elastic and bi-elastic materials. Additionally, the combined drying, stretching and skewing functions for denim fabric are possible with the ThermoStretch unit, which can also include an EcoApplicator system for the minimum application of necessary finishing chemicals.

In 2024, Vietnam surpassed Bangladesh to become the world’s second-largest textiles and apparel exporter, trailing only China, with total export revenues reaching $44 billion. This is in part due to tariffs that are currently 10-20% lower than China’s and significantly cheaper labour costs – less than half of China’s.

Vietnam’s textile and apparel industry is poised for further expansion in 2025, leveraging cost advantages and rapid production turnaround while proactively managing rising logistics costs and adapting to shifting trade dynamics.

* Econtrol® is a registered trademark of DyStar Colours Distribution GmbH, Germany.

Aquafil launched, in Slovenia, the first demonstration plant for the chemical separation of elastic fiber from nylon, an innovative technology to open new perspectives in the textile fiber sector.

“After more than a decade of research and development, Aquafil marks a turning point in the world of textile fibers with the launch of a revolutionary technology: the first demonstration plant for the chemical separation of elastic fiber from nylon. The journey began in 2013, with a joint research project together with Georgia Tech University and the filing of an initial patent. Although industrialization had not materialized, the work of Aquafil researchers never stopped. The perseverance and dedication of the R&D team led, in 2022, to the publication of a new patent, the result of improved technology that was finally ready to be tested on a semi-industrial scale.

Today, thanks to this demo plant, the results of laboratory experiments are confirmed: for the first time, it is possible to effectively separate elastic fiber from nylon in blended fabrics – one of the most difficult challenges in recycling composite materials, particularly those from sportswear and swimwear, among the most problematic wastes in the textile sector. Indeed, the coexistence of different fibers within the same fabric has long been a tremendous obstacle to recycling, condemning tons of potentially recoverable materials to becoming waste”, stated Giulio Bonazzi, Chief Executive Officer.

The goal now is to optimize the process at every stage to define the set-up of a future large-scale industrial plant. Aquafil has activated a network of strategic stakeholders to ensure a steady flow of waste materials and build a solid and efficient supply chain that can feed an increasingly virtuous recycling model.

The nylon recovered through this technology will be entirely destined for the ECONYL® regeneration plant, where it will be processed into new regenerated nylon, ready for new textile applications. This is another step toward reducing dependence on virgin resources and making a concrete contribution to reducing the industry’s environmental impact.
 
The nylon waste is collected in locations all over the world and includes industrial waste but also products – such as fishing nets and rugs – that have reached the end of their useful life. Such waste is processed to obtain a raw material – caprolactam – with the same chemical and performance characteristics as those from fossil sources. The polymers produced from ECONYL® caprolactam are distributed to the Group’s production plants, where they are transformed into yarn for rugs carpet flooring and for clothing.

INDA, the Association of the Nonwoven Fabrics Industry issued the following statement on executive orders imposing significant tariffs on products from Canada and Mexico:

Last month, President Trump instituted significant tariffs on products from Canada and Mexico. While products that fall under the United States-Mexico-Canada Agreement (USMCA) have been excluded from these new tariffs to date, it has been reported that these exclusions may end in early April.

The nonwovens industry contributes to nearly $100 billion in economic output through sales to end users in North America. According to the National Association of Manufacturers, thanks to the USMCA: “one-third of critical U.S. manufacturing inputs now come from Canada or Mexico, rather than from competitors that often engage in unfair trade practices.”

At a time when manufacturers are facing cost pressures from many angles, it is imperative that American manufacturers remain competitive globally and have long-term clarity on import costs. As such, we urge President Trump to make the tariff exemption for USMCA products permanent and are ready and willing to work with the White House to promote a balanced trade policy.”