From the Sector

KARL MAYER Technische Textilien launches the new MAX GLASS ECO, a composite machine with a focus on standard non-crimp fabrics made of glass fibers.

The MAX GLASS ECO incorporates proven solutions from the KARL MAYER GROUP's range of multiaxial machines, including features from its predecessor, the MAXTRONIC®, and combines these with sophisticated new technical developments. The result is a production machine for the economical manufacture of standard glass fiber articles, especially non-crimp fabrics for the wind power industry.

The multiaxial warp knitting machine is extremely efficient, affordable and, unlike the previous MAXTRONIC®, sufficiently flexible thanks to various optional functions. At a rotational speed of up to 1,800 min^-1, a maximum output of 410 m/h is achieved.

The MAX GLASS ECO is available with a working width of 101″ and is suitable for laying angles of +/-45°. A complementary layering system ensures a uniform take-up speed and therefore gentle processing of the fiber material. This sophisticated weft tension compensation device is one of a whole series of tried and tested features of KARL MAYER multiaxial technology that have been integrated into the new machine. Other adopted solutions include the Fiber Chopping Unit, which allows glass fiber chips to be introduced into the laying process and thus cover more fields of application, and a single pin transport chain for a processing method with less waste.

Newly developed innovations also ensure even better performance, including the fixed layer system, which ensures high placement precision at all laying angles. Other equipment details with added value for the customer include a conveyor belt across the full working width, the walking needle system, which prevents the formation of lanes even with long stitch lengths, and the fitting of single compound needles, which can be changed efficiently.

International technology group ANDRITZ has received an order from the Turkish insulation felt manufacturer Şiteks to supply a complete needlepunch line for its production plant in Tekirdag.

With this investment, Şiteks will expand its production capacity to meet the international demand for needlepunched nonwoven insulation products in the automotive and construction sectors. The line is scheduled to start up in the first quarter of 2025. This is the second line that Şiteks has purchased from ANDRITZ.

The ANDRITZ needlepunch eXcelle line for Şiteks can process different types of fibers, including natural fibers, and is specifically designed to meet the customer’s requirements in terms of productivity, quality, and sustainability.

Şiteks Şişmanlar Tekstil San. ve Tic. A.Ş, a member of the Hassan Group, is one of Europe’s largest manufacturers of thermal and acoustic insulation felts. Its products are used in a wide range of applications in the automotive, white goods, construction, and mattress and furniture industries.

The Lectra Group company announced a new collaboration between TextileGenesis, the textile traceability platform and the Forest Stewardship Council (FSC®). It will enable the implementation, via the TextileGenesis platform, of new solutions to ensure the traceability of cellulose fibers from responsibly managed forests.

In fashion, many textiles such as viscose, lyocell and modal use man-made cellulose fibers. These fibers are themselves made from wood pulp, the production of which can contribute to deforestation.

Founded in 1994, the Forest Stewardship Council (FSC®) is an international NGO whose mission is to promote responsible forest management worldwide. In particular, the organization offers certification for products and raw materials which have been obtained from wood grown in responsibly managed forests, and comes from supply chains where social rights of workers, communities and indigenous peoples have been safeguarded.

Amit Gautam, founder and CEO of TextileGenesis, explains: "We've already been working with Man Made Cellulosic Fiber Producers for several years to facilitate, thanks to our blockchain-inspired technology, the traceability of fibers manufactured by the most virtuous producers, and we've integrated their analysis criteria into our platform. By also becoming an FSC® partner today, we're taking things a step further. This new collaboration will support companies in the traceability of FSC certified fibers and support the administration and data management of FSC Chain of Custody certification. All players in the value chain will benefit from increased transparency and much more reliable upstream data. Fashion brands will be able to demonstrate much more easily that their garments use textiles made from responsibly sourced man-made cellulose fibers."

Fabian Farkas, FSC International Chief Commercial Director, adds: “We are seeing a rapid increase in interest in FSC certification from the textile industry, marking a very positive trend. Through this collaboration with TextileGenesis, we aim to simplify the administrative part of FSC certification for companies within the textile supply chain by automating many required data processes. Our goal is to empower brands to identify opportunities for seamless progress in meeting their FSC procurement policies.”

Following the signature in October 2023 of a memorandum of understanding with the International Cotton Association (ICA) and the launch last January of two consortiums with footwear and leather players, and more recently the announcement of its partnership with the Aid by Trade Foundation (AbTF), the initiator of The Good Cashmere Standard® (GCS), TextileGenesis confirms, with this new collaboration with the FSC®, its central place in the ecosystem of players mobilizing for more sustainable and responsible fashion.

• Revenue up 5.7 percent year-on-year to EUR 658.4 million
• EBITDA more than doubles year-on-year to EUR 71.4 million
• Free cash flow of EUR 87.3 million (compared with minus EUR 132.3 million in the first quarter of 2023) and thereby positive for the third consecutive quarter
• Performance program shows positive effect on revenue, EDITDA, and free cash flow
• Lenzing confirms EBITDA guidance for 2024

The Lenzing Group, a leading supplier of regenerated cellulose for the textile and nonwovens industries, recorded a further improvement in fiber sales volumes in the first quarter of 2024. An expected recovery in markets relevant for Lenzing has to date failed to materialize. Fiber prices remained at a low level. Although the costs of raw materials and energy continued to decrease, they remained higher than in the pre-crisis 2019 year.

Outlook
Even though the IMF has upgraded its growth forecast for 2024 from 3.1 percent to 3.2 percent, a number of risks remain for the global economy: potential geopolitical shocks, persistently higher inflation and key interest rates, as well as market risks emanating from the Chinese real estate market are currently considered to be the most relevant.

General inflation and falling incomes in real terms are continuing to exert a negative impact on consumer sentiment. A recovery in the consumer clothing market, which is important for Lenzing, will also depend on a further normalization of stock levels.

The currency environment is expected to remain volatile in regions relevant to Lenzing.

In the trend-setting market for cotton, a stable price trend is expected for the 2023/2024 harvest season.

Earnings visibility remains limited overall.

Revenue and earnings in the first quarter exceeded Lenzing’s expectations, despite the persistently difficult market. Lenzing is ahead of schedule with the implementation of its performance program. By appointing a separate Managing Board member, the projects identified to date are to be implemented even more rapidly, and new potentials are to be leveraged. Lenzing expects that these measures will increasingly contribute to further earnings improvement over the coming quarters compared to the first quarter of 2024.

Taking the aforementioned factors into consideration, the Lenzing Group confirms its guidance for the 2024 financial year of year-on-year higher EBITDA.

In structural terms, Lenzing continues to anticipate growth in demand for environmentally responsible fibers for the textile and clothing industry as well as the hygiene and medical sectors. As a consequence, Lenzing is well positioned with its “Better Growth” strategy and plans to continue driving growth with specialty fibers as well as its sustainability goals, including the transformation from a linear to a circular economy model.

• Continued growth in the semiconductor business
• Weak demand for carbon fibers further impacts Group sales and profitability
• Group sales down slightly at €272.6 million (-3.9%), adjusted EBITDA up 5.0% to €42.1 million
• Adjusted EBITDA margin at 15.4% after 14.1% in the same quarter of the previous year
• Outlook for 2024 confirmed

SGL Carbon had a solid start to the first quarter of 2024. Despite the slight decline in sales of 3.9% to €272.6 million (Q1 2023: €283.7 million), adjusted EBITDA improved by 5.0% to € 42.1 million (Q1 2023: € 40.1 million). Weak demand in the Carbon Fibers business unit in particular have a negative impact on the Group's sales and earnings performance. By contrast, slightly higher sales and, especially, the increase in adjusted EBITDA in the Graphite Solutions and Process Technology business units had a positive effect on the Group's performance.

Outlook
In line with the course of business in the first three months of 2024, the company confirms its sales and earnings outlook for the 2024 financial year. Consolidated sales for the 2024 financial year are expected to be at the previous year's level and adjusted EBITDA between €160 million and €170 million.

The Italian chemical company presents its solution for indigo garment dyeing EASYNDIGO in Amsterdam. The promise is to make indigo easy to obtain in just a few simple steps. The technology, based on the Pull&Push Mechanism, uses specific agents to enhance the two-phase dyeing process of raw garments with indigo.

1^st step: The pull mechanism
The Pull mechanism works on raw garments to pull indigo onto the fibers, using a special wetting and leveling agent called DETERWET EASYNDIGO, which acts as a solubilizer, ensures reproducibility and low-foaming, reducing dye migration during drying. It also involves the dispersing agent DISPERSOLO EASYNDIGO, effective for its diffusion-accelerating properties, which allows for a reduction in time and temperature of the dyeing process without compromising lightfastness.

2^nd step: The push mechanism
The Push mechanism works on dye bath to push the indigo into the fibers using an innovative compound named BASE EASYNDIGO and pre-reduced indigo DenimBlu30 by BluConnection. This method achieves a bright and deep indigo color, improves wash and rubbing fastness, enhances levelness, and is formaldehyde-free.

3^rd step
This extra phase is completely dedicated to creativity: with EASYNDIGO is easy to unleash it and get an authentic indigo garment, while reducing the consumption of water, energy and resources. Around these core concepts Officina39 continues to develop innovative solutions that make denim production increasingly responsible.

This innovative chemical package reaches its deepest effectiveness and gets power in combination with Tonello’s DyeMate technology: two Italian companies have combined their efforts to develop an innovative chemical and technological dyeing process.

Trützschler expanded their portfolio to become the first full-liner in the preparation of textile waste – from mechanical recycling to the spinning preparation of torn secondary fibers.

The TRUECYCLED solution is the result of their cooperation with the company Balkan Textile Machinery INC.CO. in Turkey, which they announced at the ITMA 2023 trade event in Milan. Since then, Trützschler has received many inquiries for recycling systems.

Success with a systems approach
Recycling systems face significant technological challenges. On average, torn fibers are much shorter than virgin fibers. The percentage share of short fibers in the fiber mass is much higher. Unopened yarn and fabric particles are also difficult to process. Not surprisingly, much academic and practical research is currently conducted to find solutions for these problems. Dr. Georg Stegschuster, a researcher specializing in textile recycling, believes a systems approach is needed. He is working at the Recycling atelier, a model factory for mechanical recycling in Augsburg, Germany, which is committed to delivering the latest technological insights for textile recycling. “A perfect fine-tuning between tearing and spinning preparation is key for obtaining the best possible quality results and avoiding unnecessary fiber shortening,” he says. “This can be achieved if you are in control of both processes – and have the necessary expertise for both processes too.”

Gentle but effective
In some cases, for example, it may be advantageous to have less aggressive settings in the tearing line. This can help avoid unnecessary fiber shortening. The remaining higher share of unopened fabric must then be handled in a high-performance spinning preparation line. This starts with the right blow room configuration for perfect opening, cleaning and blending. A card that is specially designed for recycling materials, such as the new TC 30Ri, can also enable gentle but effective treatment of fibers.

A shortened drafting process is also a must. The integrated draw frame IDF 3 can make this possible. The draft is high enough to provide excellent levelling of the numerous short fibers, but low enough to prevent floating fibers.

Full-liner in mechanical recycling and preparation of textile waste
Trützschler now offers a complete system covering the whole process, from cutting and tearing textile waste through to carding and drawing secondary fibers. Thanks to this holistic approach and Trützschler’s expertise for the whole process, manufacturers can avoid unnecessary fiber shortening.

The Lenzing Group has created an innovative concept that contributes to the sustainable protection of our glaciers while inspiring collective action for sustainable practices and a circular economy in the nonwovens and textile value chain. The concept, which was artistically staged by the Italian artist Michelangelo Pistoletto, was presented on March 21, 2024, as part of the International Day of Forests celebrations at the Palais des Nations, the headquarters of the United Nations Office at Geneva (UNOG).

The melting of glaciers is being severely impacted by global warming. Geotextiles are used to protect ice and snow. However, the nonwovens used for this are made of fossil-based fibers, which allow microplastics1 to enter the valley via streams and may enter the food chain through small organisms and animals. Nonwovens made from cellulosic LENZING™ fibers, which are biodegradable at the end of their life cycle and can be completely recycled, are the sustainable solution to this problem.

The covering of a small area with the new material made from LENZING™ fibers was tested for the first time during a field test on the Stubai Glacier. Four meters of ice were saved from melting. This was confirmed in a study conducted by the University of Innsbruck and the Austrian glacier lift operators on the Stubai Glacier in Tyrol (Austria). In 2023, the pilot project was successfully extended to all Austrian glaciers used by tourists.

Last year, the project was also awarded first place in the prestigious Swiss BIO TOP Awards for wood and material innovations.

Lenzing takes this innovation project as an opportunity to inspire collaborative action towards sustainable practices and circularity in the textile value chain. Together with a network of innovative partners, Lenzing is working on processing geotextiles into new textile fibers giving them a second life as a garment. The use of geotextiles is usually limited to two years, after which the nonwovens would be disposed of. In the first phase of the pilot project, the recycling of nonwovens made for geotextiles use has been successfully tested and a fashionable “Glacier Jacket” has been produced, showcasing that the recycling of geotextiles is viable. Next to Lenzing, the network includes Marchi & Fildi Spa, a specialist in the field of mechanical recycling, the denim fabric manufacturer Candiani Denim and the fashion studio Blue of a Kind.

Since inventing the first fleece crafted from recycled plastic water bottles more than three decades ago, Polartec®, a Milliken & Company brand, and the creator of innovative and more sustainable textile solutions, has upheld its pledge to protect the environment.

With its new Beyond Begins Today initiative, Polartec aims to raise awareness around the important global themes of sustainability, diversity and positive change.

Polartec is engaged to make the goal of zero waste a reality – from using 100% recycled and plant-based materials, to delivering certified waste reductions and innovative technologies that reduce the impact of its activities.

Beyond Begins Today is a multifaceted campaign featuring static and multimedia content, including short films released throughout the year via multiple touchpoints and channels – the first of which will be released on Earth Day 2024 to underscore the underlying premise that the future is what we make it. Polartec’s commitment to sustainable solutions go beyond the integration of increasingly advanced manufacturing methods or the ongoing exploration of novel fibers, and continued investments in sustainable materials development.

Polartec’s promises that every product launches in 2024 will either reduce the impact on the planet, endure the test of time, or contribute to circularity processes. Beyond Begins Today looks at how Polartec fabrics are made to last, and made to be used and enjoyed from one generation to the next and beyond. It explores the innovative monomaterials, repurposed plastic and plant-based nylon membranes and fabrics that Polartec uses to set new standards for high performance materials and the ambitious climate-related objectives across the entire value chain that exceed existing mandates. This holistic strategy shall allow Polartec to stay at the forefront of its industry by producing top-notch textiles that champion environmental stewardship and pave the way for a more sustainable tomorrow.

Freudenberg Performance Materials (Freudenberg) is unveiling a new 100 percent synthetic wetlaid nonwoven product line made in Germany. The new materials can be manufactured from various types of polymer-based fibers, including ultra-fine micro-fibers, and are designed for use in filtration applications as well as other industrial applications.

Customers in the filtration business can use Freudenberg’s new fully synthetic wetlaid nonwovens in both liquid and air filtration. Applications include reverse osmosis membrane support, support for nanofibers or PTFE membranes as well as oil filtration media. The new materials are suited to use in the building & construction industry or the composites industry.
For filtration applications, the new fully synthetic wetlaid nonwovens are marketed under the Filtura® brand.

Versatile and flexible manufacturing
Freudenberg’s fully synthetic wetlaid nonwovens can be made of polyester, polyolefin, polyamide and polyvinyl alcohol (PVA), using staple fibers of up to 12mm fiber length and microfibers as fine as 0.04dtex. In terms of weight, the product range spans weights of between 8g/m² and 250g/m². Freudenberg’s flexible wetlaid manufacturing line has the capability to combine various thermal and chemical bonding technologies. The materials have high precision in weight and thickness as well as a defined pore size and high porosity.

Wetlaid capabilities for various applications
In addition to its fully synthetic range, Freudenberg can also incorporate glass fibers, viscose and cellulose. General industry applications for Freudenberg wetlaid nonwovens are surfacing veils for glass-fiber reinforced plastics, compostable desiccant bags, battery separators, acoustics, heatshields, and apparel applications such as embroidery substrates.