From the Sector

Die KARL MAYER GROUP begrüßte Anfang September an ihrem Hauptsitz in Obertshausen eine Delegation aus Regierungsvertretern der Stadt Dezhou in der Provinz Shandong und Unternehmern. Die Zusammenarbeit zwischen der Provinz und Europa zu vertiefen, war das Ziel der Reisenden, darunter Weiding Tian, Sekretär der Stadtverwaltung von Dezhou, Dashan Wang, Parteifunktionär aus dem Tianqu New District, und Guiting Jiang, Präsident der Jingjin Equipment Co., Ltd.. Das Unternehmen ist einer der führenden Hersteller von Lösungen für Industriefilter in China. Es nutzt seit fast einem Jahrzehnt Kettvorbereitungsanlagen von KARL MAYER, um hochwertige Textilien für seine Produkte zu fertigen. Kürzlich wurden größere Investitionen in neue Maschinen getätigt.

Die Gäste wurden von CFO Dr. Helmut Preßl, vom Leiter Sales & Marketing der KARL MAYER-Kettvorbereitung Dieter Gager und von Kevin Socha, u.a. Managing Director von KARL MAYER (H.K.), begrüßt und durch das Unternehmen geführt. Gezeigt wurden die neusten Kettenwirkmaschinen at work und zukunftsweisende Einsatzfelder der hierauf gefertigten Textilien, Kettvorbereitungstechnologie der neusten Generation und die umfassenden Schulungsmöglichkeiten der firmeneigenen Academy.

Als Zeichen des gegenseitigen Vertrauens wurde eine Vereinbarung über die technische Zusammenarbeit zwischen der Jingjin Equipment Co., Ltd. und der KARL MAYER GROUP unterschrieben. Der Textilmaschinenhersteller will künftig seinem chinesischen Kunden technische Kettvorbereitungsneuheiten für dessen speziellen Anwendungsbereich bereits in einer sehr frühen Phase der Markteinführung zur Verfügung stellen. Die Jingjin Equipment Co, Ltd. dagegen beabsichtigt, bei Modernisierungs- und Expansionsprojekten vorrangig Maschinen von KARL MAYER zu berücksichtigen. Die Vertragsunterzeichnung fand in München auf dem „Dezhou Multinational Kooperation Exchange Symposium“ statt.

About 25 VDMA members will participate at CAITME, taking place from 11 to 14 September in Tashkent, Uzbekistan. Among the VDMA companies present at the trade fair with their own booth or through agents, 13 companies will be exhibiting in the area of the official German Pavilion, organised by the German Federal Ministry for Economic Affairs and Climate Action and initiated by VDMA: Brückner Textile Technologies, Erbatech, Georg Sahm, Groz-Beckert, Heusch, KARL MAYER STOLL Textilmaschinenfabrik, KURIS Spezialmaschinen, Lindauer DORNIER, Oerlikon Textile, Stäubli Bayreuth, STC Spinnzwirn, THIES, Xetma Vollenweider.

With exports of textile machinery and accessories worth 85 million euros in 2023, Germany was once again the second biggest supplier to the Uzbek textile sector, surpassed only by China. Uzbekistan is one of the largest producers and exporters of cotton. In the cotton sector, Uzbekistan already has a fully integrated production chain. Almost the entire cotton fibre is spun in the country. The Uzbek government has pushed ahead with extensive economic reforms in recent years. The textile industry is one of the top investment sectors in the manufacturing industry. Besides cotton spinning, the textile sector is enlarging its capacities in the downstream production steps of the textile chain, such as fabric making, finishing and dyeing.

With the MAX GLASS ECO, the KARL MAYER Technical Textiles Business Unit offers a production machine for the economical manufacture of standard reinforcement textiles made from glass fibers, in particular non-crimp fabrics for the wind power industry. The newcomer can be adapted to the requirements of different application areas thanks to various optional functions and combines short amortization times. At a maximum speed of 1,800 min-1, it produces up to 410 m/h at a working width of 101". This performance is very well received on the composite market. Since the launch of the MAX GLASS ECO at JEC World in March this year, several purchase agreements have already been signed.

Some machines are going to India, and a larger number has been ordered by Chinese customers. Even the demonstration models in the KARL MAYER GROUP customer centers in Changzhou and Chemnitz have already been sold. However, the MAX GLASS ECO at KARL MAYER Technische Textilien in Saxony can still be used for processing trials and performance tests until September.

There is also great interest in Eastern Europe. At Techtextil 2024 in Frankfurt, for example, the new composite machine was a topic of numerous meetings with Ralf Schramm, Sales Manager at KARL MAYER Technische Textilien for this region. "I held many orientation discussions about the machine's performance. But there were also customers with specific purchase requests, including the Polish manufacturer of high-quality, professional solutions for the composites industry, Rymatex," says the sales professional.

STOLL was also represented with a stand at this year's Pitti Filati. The flat knitting machine specialist of the KARL MAYER GROUP introduced its new trend collection NOCTURNO and developments from STOLL ITALIA, which were created in collaboration with the yarn manufacturer IAFIL Industria Ambrosiana Filati S.p.A. The digital software products of the CREATE family were demonstrated on request.

In addition to its participation as an exhibitor, STOLL, together with three other companies, led the "Training Days" project at Pitti Filati designed for the professional development of the entire community of operators.

STOLL's trade fair presentation at this year's Pitti Filati was organised by its subsidiary STOLL ITALIA and was a complete success.

The 2nd Textiles Innovation Conference held by KARL MAYER North America proved to be a complete success. The trade event took place from June 25 to 27, 2024 at the headquarters of the KARL MAYER GROUP subsidiary in Greensboro, North Carolina. The conference boasted a turnout with over 200 attendees, exhibitors, and keynote speakers. While the majority hailed from many states across the USA, the event also attracted a global audience, including participants from Italy, Canada, Mexico, and other countries. The central theme: the importance of textiles made in the USA, their value and influence on global markets.

The conference brought together leading industry brands and academic institutions to delve into the future of product development and sustainability in textiles. KM.ON, Black Swan, Meta, and Supreme shared a convergence of ideas, challenges, and groundbreaking advancements shaping the textile landscape. NC State and Kent State universities highlighted their efforts in developing local talent and enhancing research capabilities to meet industry demand for regional supply chains. Manufacturing Solutions Center, Southern Textile Association, and AFFOA (Advanced Functional Fabrics of America) explored research capabilities and technology testing to foster funding opportunities and generate ideas for the future.

The recipe for success also included a lecture program. The conference kicked off with a keynote speech from New Balance, a brand that empowers people through sport and craftsmanship. New Balance MADE U.S., their premium collection manufactured domestically, reflects their commitment to quality and community impact. On day two Kenny Wilsey, Sourcing Director at Dillard’s, shared his expertise to ensure adherence to quality standards and social compliance requirements for private label brands. To complete the speaker series, Allison Hicks, Lead Knit Engineer at Under Armour, inspired attendees with her innovative approach to performance footwear, apparel, and accessories.

Important topics at the conference were sustainability and digitalization: Unifi showcased high-performance fibers made from recyclable materials and pre- or post-consumer waste management initiatives. KM.ON, the digital solution company of the KARL MAYER GROUP, displayed artificial intelligence applications for quality control, supply chain optimization, and predictive maintenance for warp knitting and knitwear production.

The Textile Innovation Conference program was rounded out by an exhibition of selected textile supply chain partners. These business partners supplemented the information about innovation presented in the lectures and performance demonstrations of the latest STOLL flat knitting and KARL MAYER warp knitting machines.

The KARL MAYER GROUP founds a production company in Romania and hires Patrick Mack as an additional General Manager.

In October 2023, the KARL MAYER GROUP founded a production company in Romania to make itself more resilient and strengthen its competitiveness. KARL MAYER ROMANIA S.R.L. will initially start production in Baia Mare, which were rented in February 2024. A move to a new factory building in the neighbourhood is planned in the future.

In May of this year, Patrick Mack took up his position as General Manager at the Romanian subsidiary of KARL MAYER. He will be supported in his tasks by Manfred Reinhold, also at the head of KARL MAYER ROMANIA. Patrick Mack will manage the business locally.

The German-American has already set up a factory for a foreign company in Romania and has a clear idea of his new role: "KARL MAYER ROMANIA is of extreme strategic importance. That is why I want to build a site that fits seamlessly into the manufacturing footprint of the KARL MAYER GROUP. The new production facility should fulfil all KARL MAYER standards, contribute to the improvement of the company as a whole and represent it accordingly," explains Patrick Mack.

KARL MAYER GROUP has developed a sophisticated system for considerable energy savings when operating the cylinder dryers in its PROSIZE® sizing machines and BLUEDYE dyeing plant.

Saving costs with inline energy recycling
The innovation is called CASCADE and focuses on steam as a heating medium in cylinder dryers. And for good reason: according to the IPCC report by ITMF Zurich, one tonne of steam cost between USD 20 and just under USD 27 internationally in 2021. The new solution relies on reuse to reduce the amount of process energy required.
"CASCADE recirculates parts of the process steam in cylinder dryers, enabling genuine, efficient energy recycling within the machine," explains Karl-Heinz Vaassen, Head of Textile Drying at KARL MAYER.
The customer benefits from significantly lower energy costs and CO2 emissions. With a view to the Asian market, a dryer with 14 cylinders and a running time of 7,000 working hours can achieve cost savings of up to USD 17,000 per year.

Precise, real savings values are available when looking at the machine dashboard. A sensor provides real-time data on the amount of steam circulating in the circuit, from which the corresponding reduction in CO2 equivalents can be calculated.

Utilizing the pressure drop
CASCADE reuses part of the invested process energy and uses the flash-steam in conjunction with the pressure ratios, which - nomen est omen - decrease in cascades in the different zones of the cylinder dryer.
The highest working pressure prevails in the first cylinder section. The heat transfer medium steam emits large amounts of energy for yarn drying and condenses without temperature loss.

The resulting hot condensate is not immediately discharged from the machine, but is instead fed into a flash tank, where vapor exhaust is formed as a result of the pressure reduction. In conventional systems, the carrier medium for gases is only created in the return line towards the boiler house and is eliminated as undesirable. Instead of being utilised in the process, it escapes into the environment. With the CASCADE system, this "freshly recycled steam" is used for the heat supply in the second cylinder section, but not without prior treatment.

In the system patented by KARL MAYER, the recycled steam is intelligently mixed with live steam and thus raised to the level of the required process conditions for use in the cylinder section at the end of the dryer. Here, the fabric moisture is reduced to the desired residual value at medium pressure and temperature conditions.

Market launch is underway
CASCADE was filed for patent by the KARL MAYER GROUP. It was published in September 2023.
The innovative solution at no extra charge was presented at ITM 2024 in Istanbul and was a visitor highlight at the KARL MAYER GROUP stand.

From January 2024, CASCADE will be part of the PROSIZE® as standard. The first sizing machine with the upgrade for greater energy efficiency will be delivered in the second quarter of this year. It will go to a manufacturer in Europe. In the next step, CASCADE will be integrated into other dryer types and will also be available for the BLUEDYE.

KM.ON launches its new Quality Monitoring System (QMS) for the retrofit market at ITM from June 4 to 8 in Istanbul, presenting a solution for quality management on warp knitting machines.
For its performance in defect detection, the QMS uses the advances of our time: a camera system that captures images of the production process, and a specialized artificial intelligence (AI) to analyze the images. Particularly in terms of handling, reliability and precision of defect detection, the QMS from KM.ON offers advantages over conventional systems that do not rely on AI analysis.

The QMS is designed for easy setup and can be operated without prior expertise. If a defect causes the machine to come to a standstill, the operator is informed immediately via a user-friendly interface. The immediate warning enables rapid intervention and therefore less downtime and more productivity.

Thanks to its conceptual design, the QMS only stops production when actual defects are detected. Unnecessary interruptions caused by external disruptive factors, such as changing light conditions, are avoided. This precision prevents productivity losses and helps to ensure continuous operation. Costs due to unnecessary machine downtime are avoided.

Unlike conventional camera systems, the QMS detects even the most complex defects and triggers an immediate machine stop. This minimizes material waste. During operation, the AI-controlled system learns from the data to enhance its detection accuracy, thereby reducing the reject rate and costs. The QMS also adapts to evolving production environments to ensure consistently high efficiency.

STOLL launcht die neue Flachstrickmaschine CMS 503 ki L, 50″, für den Volumenmarkt. Erst Mitte März 2024 hat STOLL die CMS 503 ki L gelauncht und damit die bewährte CMS 503 ki um eine Maschine mit größerer Arbeitsbreite ergänzt. Das L im Namen steht für XXL-Musterungspotenziale: Mit einer 50″-Arbeitsbreite können Designs mit ausgedehnten Motiv-Formaten, aber auch Artikel mit einer erweiterten Größenrange umgesetzt werden.

Die CMS 503 ki L ist mit einem Feinheitsspektrum von E5 - E18 / E2,5.2 - 8.2 und einer Arbeitsbreite von 50″ / 127 cm im Angebot. Zur technischen Ausstattung zählen u. a. der Multiflex®-Abzug von STOLL und die standardmäßig in allen STOLL-Maschinen verwendeten Federzungennadeln. Der patente Abzug sorgt für eine optimale Breitenfixierung der Strickware und dadurch für weniger Ausschuss und Kosten. Die Federzungennadeln tragen ebenfalls zu einer Senkung der Kosten und Fehlerquote bei, führen aber auch zu einem gleichmäßigen Maschenbild und Warenflächen mit klaren Texturen. Die Grundlage hierfür ist eine durchdachte Konstruktion: Eine Zungenfeder unter der Nadelzunge gewährleistet höchste Sicherheit bei den Umhängeprozessen und beim Schließen der Zungen, auch bei der Verarbeitung vieler Fäden oder bauschiger Garne. Zudem werden die Nadeln durch den Einsatz von Nadelbürsten sicher geöffnet – ein Vorteil speziell bei leeren Nadeln – und ein kleinerer Zungenvorsprung macht ein festeres Stricken möglich.

Als Vertreterin der Knitelligence®-Maschinengeneration ist die CMS 503 ki L auf die Anforderungen der modernen digitalen Ära vorbereitet. Sie bietet vielfältige Vorteile, darunter die Möglichkeit zur Prozessautomatisierung, Transparenz, kurze Reaktionszeiten und Produktionszyklen, Vernetzung und die Erschließung neuer Geschäftsmodelle.

The exhibition “Acquired! Shaping the National Design Collection” at Cooper Hewitt, Smithsonian Design Museum, which opened on 16 March, features a STOLL work that has been part of the museum’s permanent collection since 2017.

Visitors can expect more than 150 works that have been compiled from the museum’s collection and new acquisitions since 2017. The selection, which includes works by design pioneers of the recent past, also includes a highly functional balaclava from STOLL.

Blend of design and functionality.
The flat knitted balaclava from STOLL is part of an exhibition area that visualises the defining themes of our time. Alongside a hijab, it stands for considering inclusivity in design. The balaclava offers protection from extreme cold, is stylish and is the result of a combination of creativity and technology.

The balaclava integrates an NFC chip for near-field communication, a heater to warm breathable air, a positive and negative power connector and reflective strips for passive visibility, all knitted directly into the fabric. STOLL’s state-of-the-art flat knitting technology is the basis for straightforward integration. Circuits and conductive yarns can also be incorporated in a fully automated process exactly where they are needed.

Other performance features do not require additional components. A knitted-to-shape 3D design – made possible by the goring technique – offers a perfect fit by following anatomy and eliminating the need for complex tailoring.