From the Sector

Archroma, a global leader in specialty chemicals towards sustainable solutions, has taken sustainable and cost-effective cellulosic dyeing to the next level with the introduction of AVITERA® RASPBERRY SE.

Extending the AVITERA® SE GEN NEXT platform color of deep shades, the IP-protected brilliant trichromatic red empowers mills to achieve rich, dark and extra-dark shades while meeting the stringent fastness and sustainability requirements of leading brands and retailers. The newest element also offers significantly lower processing costs, with focus on reducing the recipe cost together with reliable right-first-time performance as well, “AVITERA® SE revolutionized the dyeing of cellulosic fibers and blends when it was introduced 15 years ago – setting a new benchmark with state-of-the-art application and fastness performance and advanced sustainability,” Dhirendra Gautam, VP Marketing, Archroma said.

“Our goal was always to offer a full range of attractive colors without limits. With AVITERA® SE RASPBERRY SE as our new trichromatic red, we are now enabling fashion and textile companies to produce differentiated end articles in consistent and long-lasting dark and extra-dark shades with the same cost-competitiveness as in pale and medium shades. This is another major step forward on our PLANET CONSCIOUS+ journey to economic and environmental sustainability for our industry,” he continued.

Substantial Savings on Challenging Dark Shades
Dyeing darker shades – such as black, navy and especially red – has traditionally been more challenging and costly than dyeing lighter colors. Achieving a deep, uniform color requires higher dye concentrations and more water and energy, and often also demands additional steps or re-dyeing. Dark shades, particularly red, also tend to fade more quickly than light colors, especially when exposed to sunlight and repeated home laundering.

With high-speed low-temperature wash-off, high process reliability and excellent reproducibility on dark and ultra-dark shades, the AVITERA® SE GENERATION NEXT dyestuffs allow mills to achieve water and energy savings of up to 50% compared to best available technology, and to slash CO2 emissions and effluent discharge by up to 50% as well. They can also increase mill output by up to 25% or more.

Archroma, a global leader in specialty chemicals towards sustainable solutions, is introducing its enhanced High IQ® Lasting Color assurance program at the upcoming PERFORMANCE DAYS in Munich. With elevated performance standards, the program meets consumers’ growing demand for longer-lasting garments. Additionally, it will also be showcasing end-to-end solutions that empower brands to satisfy diverse sportswear, sports fashion, athleisure and workwear consumers while delivering both sustainability and performance.

Garments that stay looking new, wash after wash
Archroma is evolving its High IQ® performance assurance program to include its most innovative and sustainable intelligent textile effects. The updated program, which features refreshed hangtags and labels, shall help mills and brands deliver performance, protection and comfort while meeting rigorous industry standards.

As the first High IQ® program to be reintroduced, High IQ® Lasting Color incorporates Archroma’s color-retention technologies to ensure that garments stay looking new for longer—with bright shades that retain their intensity and dark shades that stay dark. Powered by specially selected AVITERA® SE and NOVACRON® dyes, High IQ® Lasting Color also supports mills and brands reduce their environmental footprint by using up to 50% less water and energy in processing.

Over the past 30 years, Monforts and its long-standing partner, Bengal Technology and Engineering, have realised over 100 fully integrated line installations in Bangladesh.

At the forthcoming Dhaka International Textile & Garment Machinery Exhibition (DTG), specialists will be on hand to provide expert advice on the wide range of services that are being provided by Monforts to the region’s dyeing and finishing sector.

The DTG takes place at the International Convention City Bashundhara (ICCB) in Dhaka from February 20-23 and will showcase the technologies of over 1,000 textile machinery brands and suppliers from 31 countries across its nine halls.

The successful 30-year partnership between Monforts and Bengal Technology and Engineering in Bangladesh has grown in parallel to the rapid rise of the nation’s textiles and apparel sector – from just a handful of manufacturers to over 6,000 factories today – and in particular, its growth into the world’s second largest exporter of readymade garments (RMGs).

Hoping to build on this success, the Bangladesh government has now initiated plans to achieve exports of RMGs worth $50 billion by as early as this year – and approaching $100 billion by 2030.

To realise this, however, the reinforcement of a textile manufacturing backbone will become increasingly crucial, and Monforts contributes to ensuring the Bangladesh industry continues to grow sustainably.

The Lenzing Group, a leading supplier of regenerated cellulose fibers for the textile and nonwovens industries, announces a significant milestone in its partnership with C.P.L. Prodotti Chimici srl, a renowned supplier of chemical products for the textile industry. LENZING™ Acetic Acid Biobased, a by-product of pulp production, is at the center of this collaboration. Oniverse, which also owns the renowned fashion brand Calzedonia, will use LENZING™ Acetic Acid Biobased for dyeing textiles in the future.

Lenzing has always developed solutions together with partners to meet the industry's requirements for a circular economy. The strategic partnerships with C.P.L., the first licensing partner for LENZING™ Acetic Acid Biobased, and Oniverse underline the trust of customers in Lenzing's biorefinery products. In addition, Lenzing enables improved visibility of its own products for partners and customers through co-branding, whether in the textile and nonwovens sector or in the biorefinery product portfolio.

The biorefinery process at Lenzing makes optimal use of the renewable raw material wood, the starting material for pulp and fiber production, and converts it into valuable products such as bio-based acetic acid. LENZING™ Acetic Acid Biobased, which has a carbon footprint that is more than 85 percent lower than fossil-based acetic acid, is used in the food, pharmaceutical, cosmetics, chemical and textile industries and in processes in the textile sector, such as washing, dyeing and finishing.

Substituting dry curing for traditional water-based techniques, these new textile production solutions greatly reduce water-borne pollution: Green Theme Technologies (GTT), creators of the waterless and PFAS-free EMPEL® textile finishing platform, has teamed up with Golden Long John to promote the next generation of cleaner and more efficient fabric dye and finishing processes.

The textile manufacturing industry generates trillions of gallons of wastewater each year. Traditional textile dyeing and finishing rinses chemical dyes and water repellency onto fabrics. Post-production toxic water is then dumped into rivers and oceans.

Last year, Golden Long John, a major textile supplier of the global footwear industry, introduced GTT’s EMPEL® finishing platform in their Vietnam factories. Their partnership has led to the combination of their two industry leading technologies, the EMPEL® high performance water repellent finish and Golden Long John’s direct dye process.

“We believe, Cleaner IS Better and this is a big step forward for the fashion and textile industries,” said Martin Flora, President of GTT Business Development. “Similar to GTT’s EMPEL® application, Golden Long John applies dye chemistry directly onto fabrics. Better performance with much less pollution is our vision for the future.”

A collaboration that unites Monforts’ dyeing and finishing equipment, BW Converting’s Baldwin TexCoat G4™ digital spray technology and Archroma’s chemistries towards sustainable solutions is charting the course for the future of sustainable textile finishing.

Together, the three companies will support dyeing and finishing manufacturers, a critical part of the textile supply chain, in their development projects, boosting the quality and performance of their finished products, while at the same time maximizing the productivity and resource utilization of the finishing application process.  

Kicking off the partnership in the second half of this year, Monforts will install BW Converting’s full-width Baldwin TexCoat digital spray unit on a stenter frame at its Advanced Technology Center (ATC) at its headquarters in Mönchengladbach, Germany.

“Our ATC already houses two full Montex stenter finishing lines engineered to accommodate an extremely diverse range of processes, in addition to a Thermex range for the continuous dyeing of denim and other woven fabrics, a full color kitchen and a number of lab-scale systems for smaller batch trials,” explained Monforts Junior Technologist Saskia Kuhlen. “It enables our customers to test their own textiles and technical fabrics under fully confidential, real production conditions and using the results from these trials we are also able to make recommendations for improving many fabric finishes. The new TexCoat installation will make an important contribution to what we can achieve.”
 
TexCoat G4 revolutionizes the traditional water- and energy-intensive pad-dry-cure finishing process by precisely applying chemistry including softeners, antimicrobials, durable water repellents, flame retardants, resins and most other water-based chemicals across the textile surface only where it is required, on one or both sides of the fabric. The system can therefore reduce water, chemistry and energy consumption by up to 50% compared to traditional pad application processes.

The TexCoat G4 installation brings together the surface functions, fabric transport and thermal processing technology of Monforts stenter frames with Archroma’s specialty chemicals, applied with TexCoat’s contactless precision, to achieve optimum absorption and maximum efficacy, exceeding the performance of traditional pad applications.

“Archroma’s commitment to advancing sustainability solutions for technical textiles has led to a pivotal partnership with Baldwin, where the benefits of contactless precision spray combined with our innovative solutions have helped textile manufacturers achieve greater energy and water savings,” said Michael Schuhmann, Global Marketing Segment Manager for Technical Textiles, Archroma Textile Effects. “We are thrilled to take the partnership to the next level with the integration of a renowned equipment expert. Together, we will bring the best of our expertise in sustainable technologies to our customers around the world.”

“Baldwin has enjoyed a great relationship with Monforts and Archroma over the last few years,” added Rick Stanford, Baldwin’s Vice-President of Business Development for Textiles “Individually, we are working hard to assist our customers to achieve their sustainability and environmental targets but this is the first time the three companies have committed to working together with a focus on bringing transformative change to the dyeing and finishing space. It will result in significantly lower energy, chemical and water consumption with increased productivity and higher quality.  We strongly believe that this partnership will be greater than the sum of its parts.”

Beyond textile finishing, Monforts, Baldwin and Archroma will work together to develop a versatile offering that will include coloration concepts and in the not-too-distant future the partners additionally plan to expand their collaboration to continuous spray dye applications developed by Baldwin.

Finishing machinery specialist Monforts will exhibit at the upcoming Febratex textile machinery exhibition taking place in Blumenau, Brazil, from August 20-23, along with Uniferro, its new regional partner.

This new alliance follows the retirement of Herbert Erdmann of the service agency Euro Texteis, who has worked with Monforts over more than 30 years to secure a leading position in the region for Montex stenter dryers, Thermex dyeing ranges and associated finishing technology.

With offices in Sao Paulo and Ceara and sub-agents across Brazil, Uniferro has been active in the textile industry for over 50 years.

coaTTex
At Febratex, Monforts will introduce its latest coaTTex coating unit exclusively dedicated to air knife and knife-over-roller coating. For single-sided application with paste or foam, the versatile coater is suitable for both incorporation into existing finishing ranges as well as installation with new Monforts Montex stenter systems.

A wide range of coatings can be applied to fabrics for providing functions such as waterproofing, liquid and gas protection and breathability, in addition to foam lamination and black-out coating.

Denim hub
Brazil remains a buoyant hub for textile manufacturing with a particular stength in the denim dyeing and finishing sector and many Monforts Thermex hotflue dyeing systems are already operational in the region, reaping the benefits of the Econtrol® process.

Econtrol® is a continuous process for the dyeing of woven cotton and cellulosic fabrics, especially denim, in which reactive dyestuffs are fixed into the fabric in a one-step dyeing and drying process with a controlled combination of steam and air. The entire pad-dry process takes just two-to-three minutes.

“Differentiation is the key in the highly-competitive denim fabrics industry, whether through the successful incorporation of new fibres, accommodating new fabric constructions or exploring the many options for how to treat them at the finishing stage, to gain a market advantage,” says says Monforts Regional Sales Manager Achim Gesser. “Our lines allow users to be extremely versatile and respond quickly to market demand, while also allowing very short production runs.”

Because finishing is a particularly energy-intensive part of the textile production chain, it is exactly where convincing results can be achieved, he adds, and Monforts has developed a wide range of energy-saving. These included a range of heat recovery systems, such as the Universal Energy Tower and the ECO Booster. Both can also be retrofitted to existing ranges to make production more resource-efficient and economical, yet without having to invest in a new machine.

“Energy costs tend to be high in Brazil and can account for up to 70% of production costs for our customers, so there is great demand for ways of saving money,” says Gesser. “Cutting energy usage also helps in terms of global warming and reducing carbon footprint, of course, so these latest technologies are a win-win for fabric finishers. As we look forward to a promising partnership with Uniferro in Brazil, we would like to extend our thanks and best wishes for the future to Herbert Erdmann for his hard work over the years.”

North Carolina State University’s Wilson College of Textiles has been making inroads challenging the conventional pad finishing process and significantly reducing its environmental footprint in collaboration with Baldwin Technology Inc. Front and center in its finishing lab is Baldwin’s TexCoat G4™ digital finishing system.
 
For nearly 125 years, the Wilson College of Textiles has been a hub of innovation and learning, transforming students into experts in the world of textiles. As the textile industry grapples with sustainability challenges, the college has embraced new technologies and innovations to address the issue head-on.
 
At the forefront of this transformation is the Zeis Textiles Extension for Economic Development, an arm of Wilson College which serves the textile industry’s prototyping and pilot production needs in its five laboratories – spun yarn, knitting, weaving, dyeing and finishing, and physical testing. Collaborations with various textile companies have allowed the university to foster industry partnerships that bring forth groundbreaking ideas.
 
The partnership with Baldwin Technology marks a major milestone for the Raleigh, North Carolina-based college’s efforts to contribute to a more sustainable tomorrow.
 
To tackle the longstanding challenges of unsustainable fashion, NC State has taken the lead in demonstrating to students and industry the transition from the traditional pad finishing process to Baldwin’s TexCoat™ G4 system. It offers an innovative “non-contact” precision spray that significantly reduces water consumption, energy usage and chemical waste.
 
“Instead of needing to take the fabric, dip it into a bath to saturate it, squeeze the excess, dry and cure it, you can now precisely add the exact amount of finish you need on the fabric,” explained Rick Stanford, Baldwin's VP Global Business Development of Textiles. “The TexCoat™ G4 system will reduce the amount of pick-up that’s required to carry the chemical onto the fabric. This will also take a lot less energy to dry the fabric, increasing production speeds.”
 
The adoption of the TexCoat™ G4 system signals a new era for the college, allowing students to actively participate in shaping a sustainable future for the textiles industry. In the global effort to protect the planet and its resources, NC State's Wilson College of Textiles is at the forefront, preparing the next generation of professionals to be the leaders of the sustainable textile movement.

Archroma has made its AVITERA® SE technology accessible to more brands and mills with the launch of AVITERA® SE GENERATION NEXT for more cost-effective sustainable dyeing of cellulosic fibers and blends.

With an improved cost-to-performance ratio for new dark and extra-dark shades, the AVITERA® SE GENERATION NEXT range helps mills produce differentiated end articles that comply with the environmental requirements of leading brands and retailers while increasing yield, improving productivity and reducing processing costs.

With high-speed low-temperature wash-off, high process reliability and great reproducibility, AVITERA® SE Generation Next allows mills to achieve water and energy savings of up to 50% and to slash CO₂ emissions and effluent discharge by up to 50% as well. It can also increase mill output by up to 25% or more. The dyes are free from arylamines, including PCA^[1], and offer fastness properties, retaining their colors through repeated home laundering and exposure to light, perspiration and chlorine.

Three new dark colors have been added to the AVITERA® SE range:

• AVITERA® BLACK PEARL SE: A greenish-cast black dye with high color consistency that can be used to correct metamerism.
• AVITERA® BLUE HORIZON SE: A deep blue element with good light fastness in medium to deep shades, as well as high oxidative fastness and high resistance to nitrogen oxides (NOx) in the atmosphere.
• AVITERA® NIGHT STORM SE: A new navy shade with a greenish cast and strong build up. It is recommended for dyeing the deepest navy and combination shades.

^[1] Non-detectable on the garment

Members of TMAS – the Swedish Textile Machinery Association – will be taking part in the forthcoming ITMA Asia + CITME exhibition, taking place from November 19-23 2023 at the National Exhibition and Convention Centre in Shanghai, China.

Weaving
In the area of weaving, 93% of the 114,000 new looms delivered in 2022 went to Asia, according to the latest figures from the International Textile Manufacturers Federation (ITMF), with China the top destination, followed by India.
As a result, TMAS members like Vandewiele Sweden AB and Eltex have a huge market to address that has been established over many decades.

Vandewiele Sweden AB benefits from all of the synergies and accumulated know-how of the market-leading Vandewiele Group, supplying weft yarn feeding and tension control units for weaving looms to the majority of weaving machine manufacturers. It also retrofits its latest technologies to working mills to enable instant benefits in terms of productivity and control.

Yarn and sewing thread monitoring
With nearly 70 years of expertise in yarn sensor technology, Eltex of Sweden AB has been at the forefront of new product development. Its EYE and EyETM systems are capable of accurately and efficiently monitoring the movement and tension of more than 1,000 yarns simultaneously. These systems are suitable for various applications and fibre types, including warping, winding, multiaxial weaving and new material applications.

Eltex sewing tension monitors, such as the ETM422, have been well-received by customers. This device can monitor the tension of sewing threads in real time, effectively improving the quality and safety of sewn products. Particularly in China's rapidly growing automotive manufacturing sector, the ETM422 has seen widespread use to meet the industry’s escalating demands for product safety and quality.

Dyeing and finishing
“Digitalisation, automation and AI have become the key enablers for sustainable gains across the entire textile industry and so much has been achieved in the past few years, especially in terms of automation,” says TMAS secretary general Therese Premler-Andersson. “One area in which TMAS members are really making a difference right now, is in replacing water and energy-intensive technologies for the dyeing and finishing processes with new digital technologies.”

The TexCoat G4 non-contact spray technology for textile finishing and remoistening, for example, will be showcased in Shanghai by Baldwin. It not only reduces water, chemicals and energy consumption, but also provides the flexibility to adapt to a customer’s requirements in terms of single and double-sided finishing applications. The TexCoat G4 can reduce water consumption by as much as 50% compared to traditional padding application processes.