From the Sector

The Cellulose Fibres Conference 2025 (CFC 2025), held on 12-13 March in Cologne, Germany, brought together industry leaders, innovators and researchers to explore the latest innovations and new technologies for fibres – in textiles, hygiene products and packaging. The conference has established itself as the leading international platform for the emerging cellulose fibre industry. Two days with high quality program and outstanding speakers highlighted the growing importance of addressing environmental concerns within the textile industry.

The main source for the production of staple fibres or filaments such as viscose, lyocell, modal or other types of new cellulose fibres is wood-based chemical pulp. At the same time, new sources such as agricultural wastes and fibres, paper grade pulp and recycled textiles are emerging on a global scale, with a variety of new sources and companies contributing new technologies, processing methods and ideas.

Biosynthetics, featured for the first time at the conference, drew significant attention. Experts discussed the challenges and opportunities of cellulose fibres and biosynthetics, with particular focus on scalability, biodegradability, and performance comparisons to conventional synthetic fibres from fossil origin.

Dynamic Engagement and Scientific Discourse
The CFC 2025 fostered discussions among attendees, with a strong emphasis on scientific advancements and sustainable practices. Participants actively engaged in sessions covering topics such as circular economy strategies fibre-to-fibre recycling from textile, marine biodegradability versus fibre microplastic formation, alternative feedstocks, and innovative technologies for pulp, fibres, biosynthetics, and yarns.

In order to support the development, innovation and market entry of cellulosic fibres, Dieter Eichinger, CIRFS (BE), presented a proposal for a new standard that includes all types of cellulosic fibres such as Viscose, Lyocell, Tencel, Modal, Cupra and new innovative fibres under the generic term "cellulose fibres". The proposal was widely supported by the participants. Anna Palmberg, IKEA (SE), also expressed a concrete interest in using more cellulose fibres in the future.

The event witnessed heightened activity on social media platforms, with delegates sharing insights, experiences, and key takeaways using the hashtag #CFC2025. This digital engagement extended the conference's reach, allowing a broader audience to participate in the discourse on sustainable textiles.

Innovation Award winner announced
The announcement of the "Cellulose Fibre Innovation of the Year 2025" award winners was undoubtedly one of the highlights of the conference. Sponsored by GIG Karasek, the award recognises groundbreaking developments in the field. Every year, the award recognises the three most promising innovations in the field of cellulose fibres, highlighting groundbreaking advancements and their potential impact. This year, for the first time, the award also offered the opportunity to recognise innovations in the field of biosynthetics. The top three outstanding technologies were honoured this year for their remarkable advancements. These three pioneers will certainly pave ways in the future of the sustainable fibres industry:

1. .SA-Dynamics (Germany): Cellulose Aerogel Textiles
   SA-Dynamics introduced revolutionary insulation materials made from 100% biodegradable cellulose aerogel fibres. These materials combine the flexibility of traditional fabrics with the superior thermal insulation properties of aerogels, offering a sustainable alternative to fossil-based and animal-derived insulation materials in textiles as well as in construction.  
2. Releaf Paper France (France): Releaf Fiber
   Releaf Paper France transforms urban fallen leaves into sustainable cellulose fibres, providing an eco-friendly alternative to traditional hardwood pulp. Their proprietary low-temperature extraction process yields high-quality fibres ideal for packaging materials, aligning with circular economy principles by repurposing urban leaf waste.
3. Uluu (Australia): Seaweed-Derived Biosynthetic Materials
   Uluu is set to replace plastics in textiles with natural PHA polymers, derived from farmed seaweed. In partnership with Deakin University, Uluu is developing textile fibres that perform like synthetic polyester but are biodegradable in various environments, eliminating persistent microplastic pollution in fashion. 

Die Industrievereinigung Chemiefaser e.V., satzungsgemäß zuständig für die DACH-Staaten, für die Bereiche Technik, Umwelt, REACH sowie Forschung und Entwicklung das Sprachrohr aller Mitglieder des europäischen Chemiefaserverbandes CIRFS, hat dem Druck auf den Industriestandort Deutschland Rechnung getragen.

Die Interessenvertretung und Lobbyarbeit der Chemiefaserbranche werden sich künftig auf die Europäische Kommission in Brüssel fokussieren. Die Industrievereinigung Chemiefaser e. V. (IVC) wird dabei zwar weiterhin einen wichtigen Faktor darstellen, aber sehr viel enger mit CIRFS in Brüssel verbunden und personell deutlich reduziert sein. Eine IVC-eigene Geschäftsführung gibt es nicht mehr, deren Aufgaben hat der IVC-Vorstand direkt übernommen.

Der Vertrag des langjährigen Geschäftsführers, Dr. Wilhelm Rauch, endete nach rund 22 Jahren am 31. Januar 2024. Der REACH-Experte wird künftig der Branche als Berater zur Verfügung stehen.

HeiQ announces the appointment of Robert van de Kerkhof as Non-Executive Director, with effect from 1 January 2024 to the board of HeiQ plc and as Chairman of the Environmental, Occupation, Health & Safety and Sustainability Committee. Robert will also be appointed to the board of HeiQ AeoniQ Holding AG (in Switzerland), a subsidiary of HeiQ plc.

Robert van de Kerkhof has over 30 years of experience in general management and sustainability leadership and extensive knowledge of the textiles industry, including cellulosic fiber technology. He founded PEPPER-i2, an advisory company specializing in sustainability and circularity. Robert also serves as the Chief Sustainability Officer and as a Board Member of Lenzing AG, a position he has held since 2014. Robert will be leaving Lenzing and its Board on the 31st. December 2023.

Robert joins HEIQ AeoniQ™ with the firm belief that the novel HEIQ AeoniQ™ man-made cellulosic fibers (MMCF) are one of the most promising solutions to transform the textile industry, now the second-most polluting in the world, into one of the most sustainable, by rendering fossil fuel-based fibers like polyester obsolete.

Robert has also held senior positions as President of the Austrian Fiber Institute, President and Board Member of CIRFS – the European Man-made Fibres Association, and Chairman of the ReHubs Business Council for Euratex, which is the voice of the European Apparel and Textile Industry.

A sector alliance that was formed to tackle issues relating to microplastics has completed the next phase of its project to develop a harmonised industry standard for the supply chain. The Cross Industry Agreement (CIA) has revealed the results of a fibre fragmentation trial that has been carried out in advance of establishing a CEN Standard (from the European Committee for Standardization). Once confirmed, the standard will also become an ISO standard under the Vienna Agreement, providing apparel manufacturers and policy makers with a vital tool as part of wider work to reduce microfibre shedding into the environment.

In 2018, five industry organisations agreed to join forces to proactively tackle the issue of microplastics, and signed the Cross Industry Agreement. The initial signatories were European industry associations that represent the European and global value chains of garments and their associated maintenance – the International Association for Soaps, Detergents and Maintenance Products (A.I.S.E.), European Man-Made Fibres Association (CIRFS), European Outdoor Group (EOG), EURATEX the European apparel and textile industry confederation, and the Federation of the European Sporting goods Industry (FESI). Together, the five organisations understood that the very first step to enable global action around the topic, was to agree a harmonised test method which would allow the collection and comparison of globally generated data, to aid the identification of solutions.

The microfibre shedding test method was developed thanks to the joint efforts and cooperation of experts from 28 European, American and Asian organisations; the result was handed over to CEN in 2020. Since then, representatives from the CIA have been working with CEN to fine tune details in order to meet the requirements for a CEN Standard. To verify the reproducibility of the method, the partners have carried out a round robin trial (RRT) to determine if the method could be replicated in different laboratories and produce similar results. 10 organisations participated in the RRT, which was co-ordinated by the CIA, sending fabric samples to all of the laboratories involved and then collecting and analysing the data.

The results from the RRT show statistically significant consistency, both within and between participating laboratories, which demonstrates that the method is both repeatable in the same setting and reproducible in other laboratories.

The CIA has submitted the results of the RRT to CEN, with the intention that the CEN Standard is confirmed in the near future. Once that has happened, it will be promoted throughout the apparel industry and will become a key tool for researchers, businesses and governments as they accelerate efforts to reduce microfibre shedding associated with garment production.