Aus der Branche

• Major Monforts denim customers continue to pioneer new initiatives that are pushing the boundaries of sustainable production.

Recycling their cotton waste has become one way these companies can do more with less, and at the recent Kingpins24 Flash online event, Sedef Uncu Aki, director of Orta, headquartered in Istanbul, Turkey, announced a new partnership with leading recycling operation Gama Recycle.

Traceable
“Through this local partnership we will supply the waste from our spinning mills and return around 3,000 tons of premium quality cotton back to them,” she said. “We have established a truly controlled and traceable system and partnering with a domestic recycling centre is important because a lot the carbon emissions associated with recycling usually come from transportation.”

Orta’s ZeroMax range meanwhile uses no cotton at all, being based on Lenzing’s Tencel cellulosic fibre, while the company’s involvement in denim production for a recent launch by Levi Strauss, of jeans made with organic cotton and Circulose – a breakthrough material developed by re:newcell of Sweden and partners – was hailed as a further step forward.

To make Circulose, re:newcell repurposes discarded cotton textiles, such as worn-out denim jeans, through a process akin to recycling paper. The incoming waste fabrics are broken down using water. The colour is then stripped from these materials using an eco-friendly bleach and after any synthetic fibres are removed from the mix, the slurry-like mixture is dried and the excess water is extracted, leaving behind a sheet of Circulose. This sheet is then made into viscose fibre which is combined with cotton and woven into new fabrics.

Circular Park
Omer Ahmed, CEO of Artistic Milliners also announced plans for his company’s new 70,000 square-foot Circular Park in Karachi, Pakistan, at Kingpins24 Flash.

Once complete, this will add three million square metres of additional denim capacity a month to the company’s production and take its total recycled output to a monthly five million metres.
Ahmed observed that there is currently a lack of sustainable fibres that are readily available to use for denim production at scale.

“Organic cotton is too expensive, and in my opinion always will be,” he said. “Cottonised hemp is also not cheap and it’s hard to mix with cotton, while the new regenerated cellulose fibres that are now emerging are promising, but currently in short supply. Recycled polyester is meanwhile still based on petroleum resources which we want to move away from. As a consequence, there are only a few other options for us as a manufacturer and this new project will help us minimise our own waste while significantly lowering our carbon footprint.”

Other Monforts denim customers to introduce cotton fibre recycling operations at their plants recently include AGI Denim, Bossa and Soorty.

Vertical savings
Refresh is the name of the latest collection from AGI Denim – reflecting the company’s significant reduction in water consumption.

The company has just opened new fibre spinning and denim mills at its complex in Karachi, Pakistan.

“Over the years we’ve gone through a series of backward integration steps to become fully vertical,” said AGI Denim executive director Ahmed Javed, at Kingpins24 Flash. “In our latest expansion, we revisited every step of the production processes in order to make resource savings.”

Innovations have included the installation of proprietary robotics for garment finishing, but the most attention has been paid to water savings.

“Pakistan is one of the largest cotton-producing companies in the world and we’re fortunate that the type of cotton that is grown here is well suited to denim production and also helps us lower our carbon footprint, with everything done in close proximity,” Javed said. “In the lifecycle of a pair of denim jeans, however, cotton fibre production contributes 68% of water consumption. While we cannot control how much water cotton needs for it to grow, we can rethink the way we use it in our factory.”

Refresh-branded denims are washed from 100% recycled water as a result of the company’s new wastewater treatment plant, which puts production wastewater through a series of steps beginning with equalisation, followed by aeration and concluding with sedimentation. The water travels through filtration and ultrafiltration systems before being subjected to an activated carbon system and finally a reverse osmosis system to reduce any dissolved salts.

AGI now recycles 4.4 million gallons of water each month – enough to wash a million pairs of jeans.

Sustainable
Monforts has a leading position in the field of denim finishing with its well proven Thermex continuous dyeing systems, Montex stenter dryers and other lines for resource-efficient and economical processing.

“Our denim partners are constantly setting themselves new goals in respect of sustainable production – and more importantly, achieving them,” says Hans Wroblowski, Monforts Head of Denim. “We work closely with them with the aim of constantly optimising processing parameters and achieving further savings in energy, water and raw materials throughout the dyeing and finishing stages of production.”

The latest Monforts innovation for denim is the CYD yarn dyeing system. This technology is based on the effective and established dyeing process for denim fabrics that is now being applied for yarn dyeing. The CYD system integrates new functions and processes into the weaving preparation processes to increase quality, flexibility, economic viability and productivity. A full CYD line is now available for trials at the company’s Advanced Technology Centre in Mönchengladbach, Germany.”

ISKO™, a leading denim ingredient brand, has applied its Responsible Innovation™ approach to create a collection with environmental and social responsibility at its heart. Incorporating clever technologies, a myriad of finishes and colors and state-of-the-art production techniques – ISKO works beyond compliance to ensure the highest standards have been met for its latest collection. Style, comfort and new advancements will inspire everyone from passionate denimheads to those on a quest for a comfortable look and feel – from the most laidback setting to the most extravagant occasions.

The collection uses ISKO R-TWO™ fabrics, made of a blend of reused and/or recycled resources. Certified to Textile Exchange environmental credentials, R-TWO ensures full traceability of reused and recycled content, maximizing impact at scale.

Collection 2022 Vol.1 includes four lifestyles, featuring comfort, style, color options and surprising new editions. These are meant to provide inspiration, highlighting and enhancing the properties and benefits of ISKO’s innovations according to specific moods and vibes.

Inspiriert von dem Leitkonzept „TAILOR MADE – CASUAL INSPIRED“ präsentiert EDUARD DRESSLER eine Herbst/Winter Kollektion 2021, die auf die neue Casualisierung des Alltages eingeht und ganz bewusst Akzente für einen souveränen Umgang mit ihr setzt: Bekleidung soll nicht mehr nur für einen Anlass funktionieren und Komfort steht mehr denn je im Fokus. Ungezwungene und sportive Elemente verschmelzen mehr und mehr mit dem formellen Bereich.

Der Stil geht zunehmend weg vom Slim fit, hin zu entspannten Silhouetten. Zugleich verschwinden körperbetonte Schnittführungen aber nicht vollständig, sondern sie werden in neue, zeitgemäße Kombinationen integriert. Auch die klassischen Anzughosen werden neu interpretiert und passen sich moderneren, verspielteren Formen an.

Der Key Look der Saison ist „Smart Casual” – von legeren Sakkos in Kombination mit Jeans oder Chinos über neue casualisierte All-in-One-Qualitäten, die man sowohl als Zweiteiler oder einzeln kombinieren kann, bis hin zu Jacken und Mänteln. Strick und hybride Themen nehmen eine wichtige Rolle ein und lassen den formellen Bereich nochmals deutlich entspannter und ungezwungener erscheinen.

Diese Leitlinien setzt EDUARD DRESSLER mit innovativen Materialien, ansprechenden Silhouetten und anspruchsvollen Fokusthemen ganzheitlich um. Zu den Highlights zählen die Themen FleX-ED, Calming Nature und CL Collection sowie die Cashmere Denim ED 1929.*

*Weitere Informationen finden Sie im Anhang.

The textile industry, one of the major industrial sectors worldwide, is going through a significant revolution, with changes taking place in various sections of textile processing. Biotechnology and biomimicry, for example, are continuously playing an important role in redefining the influence of the textile industry on society, and so is progress made in auxiliary chemistry, with advances investigated and then applied in almost every section of textile processing.  The outcome is amazingly promising.

Modern, real science is inextricably intertwined with environmental consciousness and they are definitely not mutually exclusive.

At RUDOLF GROUP modern, real science means pushing R&D so to constantly explore new technology and innovations that help transform the textile and fashion industries. We work to reduce the overall dependency on traditional and virgin resources.  Getting textile manufacturers as well as brand and retailers on board is key to achieve real change. By 2030 we aim for a significant fraction of our products to be either sourced through paths alternative to the traditional petrochemicals, or by upcycling waste and/or byproducts from other industries.

“This is the kind of genuine, tangible, environmental consciousness that truly defines us and that entails that RUDOLF GROUP has a responsibility for the needs of society as a whole.” Said Alberto De Conti, Head of Rudolf Fashion Division “We have a maniacal attention to the environmental impact of our operations and products. We have truly embedded in ourselves the notion that “sustainability” is a key issue and critical to the long-term survival of our company and of society at large. “

The combination of modern, real science and environmental consciousness leads to what RUDOLF GROUP call aspirational chemistry something unique and something that positions us as shining example and guiding light throughout the industry. That is, in fact, BETTER CHEMISTRY.

Two are the innovations rooted in aspirational chemistry that RUDOLF HUB1922 presents. The first one is our WASHLESS technology and the second one is a brand new launch: LASER SMOOTHER, which supports laser technology and helps creating much better denim looks.

WASHLESS

HUB1922 WASHLESS, which can be applied to both denim and non-denim, is the simultaneous application of
-    proprietary fluorine-free DWR (Durable Water Resistance) based on biomimicry to repel dirt
-    anti-microbial, anti-bacteria and anti-viral, non-migrating chemistry to stop body odour.
The combination of the 2 translates into garments that don’t require to be washed as much.

Life cycle assessment studies on clothes, detergents and washing machines show that home laundering is always the most energy‐demanding period during these products' life cycle, even higher than production or transportation phases.

“WASHLESS aims at changing consumer habits in clothing maintenance to a more environmentally friendly direction and represents a change that is the most feasible and efficient. Making washing machines obsolete is impossible, but even though the technologies in clothes cleaning have improved greatly, the washing frequency has not been reduced. We own more and more clothing and wash it more frequently. This increased amount of washing counteracts the technological improvements in home laundry. “ said De Conti.

It is only by understanding the climate change impact associated with home laundering that product innovations and consumer education can be explored. Studies consistently show that a carbon dioxide reduction of 105 MT and electricity savings of 142 thousand GWh can be obtained by reducing home laundering, on average, by 1/3. This is roughly equivalent to removing 12% of the 140 M passenger cars in the US, or taking 23 coal power plants off the grid. In addition, more than 60% of water consumed while laundering (2,000 billion liters) can be reduced through these strategies.

LASER SMOOTHER

Laser denim is the current dominant technology available to the denim industry to create locally abraded areas, vintage effects, whiskers, patterns, patches, and even intentional holes and tears in a garment. Laser technology uses less water, harmful chemicals (such as potassium permanganate) and energy to create a wide variety of denim looks.

However, laser is not always able to produce the desired look, on the desired fabric, in the desired time. Therefore, chemical companies have been developing laser boosters that can be pre-applied to the garments in order to intensify the effect of the laser to mimic heavier bleaching applications. Unfortunately, laser boosters can create blurred images where the definition is lower and the overall image less natural.

The brand new RUDOLF HUB1922 LASER SMOOTHER is an all-in-one formulation, very easy to pre-apply to garments before laser burning and that return a very natural image which is very similar to the highly desirable hand scraping. Laser smoother can be applied by traditional exhaust or through nebulization and it dries at normal temperature in normal tumble driers.  Advantages of LASER PRIMER are:

•    Remarkable enhancement of the fabric’s characteristics (heightening of material)
•    Overall effect much more natural and similar to manual scraping (craftsmanship dimension)
•    Reduced required laser power to achieve the wanted effect (conspicuous energy saving)
•    A faster laser burning process (significant time saving, depending on the final effect)
•    Any other chemical spray is not required (environmental friendliness)
•    Reduced cost compared to other solution (financial viability)

• The fruit of the collaboration between Ian Bery and Tonello lands in San Francisco

The Secret Garden was the subject of first project between Ian Berry and Tonello in 2017 exhibited in New York at the Children's Museum of the Art’s and now the installation also arrives at the Flower Mart in San Francisco, another fantastic location that will host the work in denim permanently.

A hanging trellis with flowers, leaves, vines, wisteria and chrysanthemums welcomes visitors, but it is no ordinary flora but a dense structure that blooms in blue, indigo blue. Each piece cut from jeans and denim.
Cascading high across the wide-paned windows as a floral curtain, this piece is a solemn and bold reminder of the industrial history of the United States. The denim from this piece was sourced from the last denim mill in the United States, Cone Denim’s, White Oak in Greensboro, North Carolina.

“Denim has been a medium for me over 15 years and one thing I love the most about it, is the history though time and its symbolism but also its origins. Representing the Flower Mart in the material famed in the city dating back to the 1870s and the official fabric of California will show that the great new building respects and embraces the city’s heritage.” Said Ian Berry

Ian Berry is currently exhibiting in the birth home of Levi in Bavaria starting a tour of his work that takes in many cities across the world.

“The democratic nature of this famed material is also a mark of this project’s preservation of blue-collared jobs and a bridge between the old and the new in this innovation. And of course, denim transcends all boundaries all over the world and ever since the 1800’s the Flower Mart has been ethnically diverse, and this history should be celebrated.” Conclude Ian Berry.

A trademark for Ian Berry as well as an exciting result of a sincere collaboration for Tonello, who has been working side by side with the artist for several years.

Today Tonello is the international benchmark for the garment-processing industry developing innovative equipment for the apparel industry. Not only, also known as the inspiring company, it boasts numerous projects and collaborations with international artists including Ian Berry, an artist that shows around the world in galleries, museums, and art.

Tonello has created the Secret Denim Garden using only innovative and totally responsible technologies.

We are talking about Laser Blaze and The All-In-One System, pillars of Tonello Laundry (R)Evolution, the sophisticated fruit of a radically new conception in garment finishing processes.
A 100% sustainable effect on leaves and flowers, thanks also to the ECOfree2 technology - part of The All-In-One System - that through the use of ozone in water and ozone in air, reproduces an extremely natural bleach effect on denim, all in a completely responsible way.

With the installation for the new San Francisco Flower Mart, Tonello helped was (with ozone) dozens upon dozens of yards of the Cone denim and laser cut the vines to make the Trellis. Ian travelled to Italy to work with the specialist team in the region also famed for its denim industry

Alice Tonello, head of Tonello marketing and R&D said: "Having the opportunity to work with Ian Berry is always amazing. We are using denim in a different and inspiring way, and it's something that in the industry usually doesn't happen. When he asked us about this new project, we were so happy and so proud to be part of it. The installation in the San Francisco Flower Mart is an example of how collaborations and friendships can lead to unexpected and surprising results as well as portraying a message in a beautiful way."

Ian Berry permanent installation in San Francisco Flower Mart https://www.newsfflowermart.com

• Italian creativity merges with Chinese technological innovation to create a new capsule collection
   

A new era is born in the world of denim, Paolo Gnutti and Advance Denim will combine their skills to create capsule collections for both the US and Asian markets.

These collections will combine Paolo Gnutti’s artistry and Advance denim’s technological innovation to create “magical” inspiration that is with the reach of all brands.

Advance Denim has the distinction of being the oldest denim manufacturer in China and has dedicated its efforts since day one around the core beliefs of innovation , service , quality and people. These core beliefs are the foundation of their day to day focus of becoming a world leader in denim. They are also  committed to making the most sustainable denim possible and they are constantly investing in the infrastructure and systems that will help them to reach aggressive sustainability goals . Sustainability is important but Advance Denim has always been true to denim and strive to produce innovative high-quality products that exceed the needs of the market

“We are looking forward to Paolo bringing his Italian artistic aesthetics to our denim.” Said Ms. Amy Wang, General Manager of ADVANCE DENIM. “ We believe it is the combination of eastern and western design and culture that have never been offered to our customers before and will take Advance Denim to a whole new level. It is our goal to also offer these high quality designs at a competitive price from our Vietnam facility.” conclude Ms. Wang.

Paolo Gnutti, a life time dedicated to denim innovation and creativity, bases the creation of his collections following  precise themes and  stylistic contaminations. He uses indigo bases which are completely transformed thanks to the use of flocks, 3D prints, colored foils and metallic effects.

Paolo Gnutti has the ability to conceive ground breaking fashion, thanks to his incredible creativity and visionary irreverent combination that ushers in a new concept of  fashionability to the denim world.

“ My passion and my professional exploration lead me to acquire the skill needed to develop unforgettable and unique textile concepts” said Paolo Gnutti “ I’m trilled to begin this collaboration with Advance Denim. I feel that we need a new challenge in our denim world, a new era of true globalization; we will create a capsule collection that will reach all customers, from premium to the mass market.”

A new era begins, based on the evolution of the  market and the search for innovation and inspiration that is both technically performance driven and accessible to all brands.

• ISKO and Bluesign announce their partnership for the creation of a cleaner, safer, and transparent world of denim. ISKO just released its landmark
• Sustainability Report, setting the target of achieving bluesign® APPROVED accreditation by the end of 2020.

Denim is a timeless staple in wardrobes around the world. ISKO, the leading denim ingredient brand, and Bluesign, the architects of a sustainable and responsible textile supply chain, are joining forces in a partnership. Alliances like this are the source of effective improvements.

ISKO has a long-standing commitment to ensure the integrity of its ingredients and the traceability of the fibers and materials used in its denim apparel. By releasing the Sustainability Report, ISKO again demonstrates its commitment to creating and designing denim apparel that has a positive connection with the planet. In this report, a primary target of ISKO is to achieve bluesign® APPROVED accreditation for its denim textiles, attaining the strictest industry standard for consumers and environment alike.

With the goal of completing this process by the end of 2020, the company has already performed bluesign® COMPANY ASSESSMENT at an above-average level. This shows how ISKO anticipates changes rather than simply reacting to legal or stakeholder requirements, pursuing an approach that has a huge potential and includes several actions for further improvements. Through this partnership, ISKO and Bluesign continue the movement of the textile and fashion industry into a future that pays more attention to people and the environment, because only when both are considered can the industry truly make a positive long-lasting impact.

“ISKO, as the soul of jeans, has a vision for denim that is creative in design and innovative in the use of technologies. These distinct qualities in combination with a determined commitment to a sustainable supply chain makes ISKO a true leader in the textile industry. We look forward to the next impactful steps we will take together.” Jill Dumain, CEO, bluesign technologies. “As the leader of this industry, we feel it is our responsibility to be and act as a force for good. We have always prioritized transparency and accountability, highly valuing every improvement that can be achieved by sharing values and goals through partnerships. This one makes us particularly proud, as it raises the bar of our efforts and challenges us to maintain our improvement efforts.” Ebru Ozkucuk Guler, Senior Sustainability & CSR Executive.

Die Märzveranstaltung der CHIC Shanghai wird im Juli in Shenzhen stattfinden. Aufgrund der globalen Corona Epidemie konnte die Mode- und Lifestyle Messe CHIC Shanghai nicht wie geplant vom 11. bis 13. März 2020 in Shanghai veranstaltet werden.

Die weiter anhaltende weltweite epidemische Situation lässt nicht zu, dass Chinas Kontroll- und Präventionsmaßnahmen gelockert werden. Es ist aus logistischen Gründen nicht möglich, den Nachholtermin der Frühjahrsveranstaltung der CHIC März noch vor der Herbstveranstaltung der CHIC Shanghai im September in Shanghai stattfinden zu lassen.

Die ursprünglich geplante Veranstaltungsfläche für die Premiere der CHIC Shenzhen vom 15. bis 17. Juli 2020 wird um 10.000 Quadratmeter auf 40.000 Quadratmeter erweitert.Das Konzept, ein Ort - ein Datum - vier Shows, das sich in Shanghai seit Jahren bewährt hat, wird hier fortgesetzt.

Die "Greater Bay Textile & Apparel Expo" des China National Textile and Apparel Council wird insgesamt vier Trade Shows kombinieren:
China International Fashion Fair 2020 in Shenzhen (CHIC SHENZHEN), Intertextile SHENZHEN Apparel Fabrics, PH Value (Shenzhen) und Greater Bay Area International Trade Fair for Fibres and Yarns.

CHIC ist eng mit den Mode- und Textilindustrieclustern der Pearl River Delta-Region verbunden und bietet insbesondere Marktmöglichkeiten für die Regionen Guangdong - Hongkong - Macao - Greater Bay.

In den Hallen 9 und 11 des Shenzhen World Exhibition & Convention Centers sind alle Produktbereiche der CHIC geplant: CHIC Tailoring, Urban View (Menswear), New Look (Womenswear), Impulses (Designerbereich), CHIC Kidz, CHIC-Young Blood, CHIC Worldwide (internationale Beteiligungen) in Halle 9 und Denim World, Secret Stars (Accessoires), Bags & Shoes, Heritage (Leder, Pelz und Daunen), ODM in Halle 11.
CHIC SHOWS und CHIC TALK werden ebenfalls in Shenzhen präsentiert. Parallel bietet CHIC die Möglichkeit zur Teilnahme an der CHIC Online vom 22. bis 24. April 2020 an. Hierfür werden alle Ressourcen und Netzwerke der CHIC für ein Business-Matching der Teilnehmer genutzt.

Der Termin der Herbstveranstaltung der CHIC in Shanghai ist für den 23. bis 25. September 2020 geplant. Veranstalter sind die China National Garment Association, Sub-Council of Textile Industry CCPIT und China World Trade Center Co. Ltd.

• Bangladeshi supplier offers production capacity to produce face masks and PPE on non-profit basis
•  Reaching out to global agencies to build partnerships to help tackle COVID-19 crisis

A Bangladeshi garment manufacturer is offering the manufacturing capacity for the production of protective face masks and Personal Protective Equipment (PPE) on a non-profit basis to help tackle the COVID-19 global pandemic.
Many hospitals in Europe and USA are already running short of masks and PPE as they creak under the strain of the pandemic.
At present, COVID-19 is most prevalent in Europe, where demand for surgical masks and other protective garments has increased this past two months. However, other countries – including Bangladesh – are several weeks behind Europe but are expected to follow the same pattern in terms of cases and deaths.

Denim Expert Limited Managing Director, Mostafiz Uddin, has reached out to the global community including brands & retailers, governments, embassies, donors, development agencies, global apparel associations and bodies in these unprecedented times.

Archroma, a global leader in color and specialty chemicals towards sustainable solutions, today announced that it has joined ‘The Denim Window’ as its showcase company for color and effect technologies.

The Denim Window is a showroom located in Amsterdam, Netherlands, and dedicated to providing apparel brands with inspiration, sustainability and innovation for their denim collections. Created and curated by Silvia Rancani, a passionate denim consultant with a unique flair for fashion and technology, The Denim Window connects carefully selected companies with brands through exclusive events and showcases at The Denim Window location.

The Denim Window allows its visitors to find in one single place fabric mills, garment makers, chemical suppliers, fiber and trim producers, where designers, product developers, fashion students, denim lovers & emerging talents are invited to review and learn more about the products, aiming to stimulate creativity and innovation through collaborations.

The Denim Window and Archroma will regularly organize workshops to support brands and retailers with systems and inspiration to create denim colors and effects in “The Archroma Way: safe, efficient and enhanced. Because it’s our nature!”.

The company, which made the headlines with innovations such as its aniline-free* Denisol® Pure Indigo or its EarthColors® range of dyes based on non-edible biomass waste from the herbal and agricultural industries, participated to the recent exhibition organized at The Denim Window in Amsterdam on 23 January to celebrate Chinese New Year with the new Denim Window 2020 member companies.

“Amsterdam has developed as one of the world’s denim cities with global meet-ups and events, and now the conferences, workshops and permanent showroom of The Denim Window”, explains Umberto Devita, Business Development Manager for Denim & Casual Wear at Archroma. “The Denim Window, Archroma and the other member companies share the same passion for creativity, innovation and denim with a soul, and that makes us a match made in heaven. We are very excited to have been given this opportunity to collaborate the Denim Window dream team!”