From the Sector

The German Institutes of Textile and Fiber Research Denkendorf (DITF) are coordinating the research project, which is funded as part of the European Union's Horizon Europe research and innovation program. The aim of BioFibreLoop is to develop recyclable outdoor and work clothing made from renewable bio-based materials. The kick-off event took place in Denkendorf on June 26 and 27, 2024.

The textile industry is facing two challenges: on the one hand, production must become more sustainable and environmentally friendly and, on the other, consumers are expecting more and more smart functions from clothing.

In addition, the production of functional textiles often involves the use of chemicals that are harmful to the environment and health and make subsequent recycling more difficult.

Intelligent innovations must therefore ensure that harmful chemicals are replaced, water is saved and more durable, recyclable bio-based materials are used, thereby reducing the usually considerable carbon footprint of textile products. Digitalized processes are intended to ensure greater efficiency and a closed cycle.

For example, the BioFibreLoop project uses laser technology to imitate natural structures in order to produce garments with water and oil-repellent, self-cleaning and antibacterial properties. At the end result of the research work will be affordable, resource and environmentally friendly, yet high-performance and durable fibers and textiles made from renewable sources such as lignin, cellulose and polylactic acid will be available. All processes are aimed at a circular economy with comprehensive recycling and virtually waste-free functionalization based on nature's example. In this way, greenhouse gas emissions could be reduced by 20 percent by 2035.

The technology for the functionalization and recycling of bio-based materials is being developed in three industrial demonstration projects in Austria, the Czech Republic and Germany. At the end of the project, a patented circular, sustainable and reliable process for the production of recyclable functional textiles will be established.

The BioFibreLoop project has a duration of 42 months and a total budget of almost 7 million euros, with 1.5 million going to the coordinator DITF.

The consortium consists of 13 partners from nine countries who contribute expertise and resources from science and industry:

• German Institutes of Textile and Fiber Research Denkendorf (DITF), Coordinator, Germany
• Next Technology Tecnotessile Società nazionale di ricerca R. L., Italy
• Centre Technologique ALPhANOV, France
• G. Knopf’s Sohn GmbH & Co. KG, Germany
• FreyZein Urban Outdoor GmbH, Austria
• BEES - BE Engineers for Society, Italy
• BAT Graphics Vernitech, France
• Interuniversitair Micro-Electronica Centrum, Belgium
• Idener Research & Development Agrupacion de Interes Economico, Spain
• Teknologian tutkimuskeskus VTT Oy, Finland
• Det Nationale Forskningscenter for Arbejdsmiljø, Denmark
• Steinbeis Innovation gGmbH, Germany
• NIL Textile SRO, Czech Republic

The Supervisory Board of Lenzing Group has appointed Rohit Aggarwal as a new member of the Management Board of Lenzing Group. He will assume responsibility for the fiber division during the third quarter. After the departure of Stephan Sielaff, Aggarwal will take over the position of CEO of Lenzing Group.

Rohit Aggarwal has a sound understanding of the strategic development of international markets and the establishment of efficient management teams through global management positions in Europe, the USA and Asia. Thanks to his experience in the global textile and fiber market, he is well versed with Lenzing's core business in all its facets, both in terms of content and geography.

Stephan Sielaff, CEO of Lenzing Group, will leave the company at the latest when his contract expires at the end of March 2025 and devote himself to new tasks.

Archroma has won awards in two categories at the Just Style 2024 Excellence Awards. It took home two coveted Innovation Excellence awards for its SUPER SYSTEMS+ solutions and AVICUERO® leather tanning process, as well as a Social Excellence award for its longstanding and holistic commitment to community engagement in Baroda, India.

The awards recognize how Archroma is driving change with innovations that advance sustainability and through initiatives that contribute to the socio-economic progress of communities near to its Baroda manufacturing plant.

Innovation Awards
Archroma was recognized for advancing sustainable manufacturing in two Just Style Excellence Awards for Innovation.

SUPER SYSTEMS+ is a comprehensive suite of solutions that addresses the textile industry's key challenges, including water consumption, greenhouse gas emissions, circularity, chemical management and compliance.

By providing end-to-end, fiber-specific solutions that enhance process efficiency and offer intelligent effects, SUPER SYSTEMS+ enables mills and brands to meet their sustainability targets as well as consumer demand for durable products with enhanced functionality and sustainability. With end-to-end solutions from pre-treatment to finishing, SUPER SYSTEMS+ can be deployed without additional investment. With future compliance in mind, the solutions also go beyond current regulations and industry standards to anticipate upcoming restrictions.

Archroma’s AVICUERO® is a system for sustainable leather tanning and dyeing. Developed in collaboration with UK-based leather technology expert Dr Leather, it is both chrome- and metal-free and yet maintains the quality and performance of traditional tanning methods. Tanners enjoy shorter processing times, eliminate the pickling process and reduce salt usage, leading to lower pollution effluent discharge loads. In addition, AVICUERO® can offer energy savings of up to 25% and CO₂ emissions reductions of up to 23% compared to traditional chrome tanning.

Social Award for Community Engagement
Archroma has also been recognized for the positive impact it is having on communities in the vicinity of Baroda through multifaceted initiatives that span early childhood development, student scholarships, agricultural education and the empowerment of women.

Archroma recently set up an Anganwadi Centre to provide a range of services in the community, including nutrition and health education and pre-school learning. It also runs a scholarship program for students in vocational training, helping to create a skilled talent pool for the region. Archroma is also collaborating with a local NGO to empower farmers with modern agricultural methods and insights.

The building of a Household Biogas Plant in Umraya village is another example of Archroma's sustainable initiatives. The conversion of manure into clean renewable energy by the plant tackles several issues, such as reducing greenhouse gas emissions and enhancing soil health. It also liberates rural women from the burden of sourcing conventional fuel sources and the health risks associated with burning dung cakes for fuel.

KARL MAYER Technische Textilien launches the new MAX GLASS ECO, a composite machine with a focus on standard non-crimp fabrics made of glass fibers.

The MAX GLASS ECO incorporates proven solutions from the KARL MAYER GROUP's range of multiaxial machines, including features from its predecessor, the MAXTRONIC®, and combines these with sophisticated new technical developments. The result is a production machine for the economical manufacture of standard glass fiber articles, especially non-crimp fabrics for the wind power industry.

The multiaxial warp knitting machine is extremely efficient, affordable and, unlike the previous MAXTRONIC®, sufficiently flexible thanks to various optional functions. At a rotational speed of up to 1,800 min^-1, a maximum output of 410 m/h is achieved.

The MAX GLASS ECO is available with a working width of 101″ and is suitable for laying angles of +/-45°. A complementary layering system ensures a uniform take-up speed and therefore gentle processing of the fiber material. This sophisticated weft tension compensation device is one of a whole series of tried and tested features of KARL MAYER multiaxial technology that have been integrated into the new machine. Other adopted solutions include the Fiber Chopping Unit, which allows glass fiber chips to be introduced into the laying process and thus cover more fields of application, and a single pin transport chain for a processing method with less waste.

Newly developed innovations also ensure even better performance, including the fixed layer system, which ensures high placement precision at all laying angles. Other equipment details with added value for the customer include a conveyor belt across the full working width, the walking needle system, which prevents the formation of lanes even with long stitch lengths, and the fitting of single compound needles, which can be changed efficiently.

Mayer & Cie. presented an overview of its current portfolio in the circular knitting sector at the ITM in Istanbul. Two machine types – the SF4 3.2 III and the Relanit 3.2 HS II – and various smart solutions that make circular knitting more efficient were on display. knithawk, a tool for the optical detection of knitting defects, met with interest among the visitors. The same was true for knitlink, Mayer & Cie's hub for digital solutions. Spare parts packages and conversion kits are also in demand for the long-term value retention of Mayer & Cie. machines.

Relanit 3.2 HS II
The Relanit 3.2 HS mechanical single jersey machine offers high productivity, especially in the context of elastic plating. It processes a wide range of yarns and qualities reliably. It is suitable for processing recycled yarns. Their energy consumption is up to a third lower than that of a circular knitting machine with conventional technology.

In Istanbul, Mayer & Cie. presented an updated version of its flagship, the Relanit 3.2 HS II. The new open-width take down is the single component that attracted the most interest. It ensures a uniform pull-off tension of the knitted fabric over its entire circumference. The knitted hose is only opened below the take-down rollers. Furthermore, the take-dwon is equipped with two drives: one for tensioning, one for rewinding. Both can be controlled separately.

Another innovation of the Relanit 3.2 HS is aimed at reducing downtimes: The needle with predetermined breaking point, which was developed together with Groz-Beckert, prevents it from breaking uncontrollably and, in the worst case, breaking needle butt. The new spring sinker is also a joint development with Groz-Beckert. This makes the Relanit 3.2 HS II run more smoothly, produce less noise as well as with less wear and tear.

SF4-3.2 III for lightweight three-tread fleece knitted fabrics
With its SF4-3.2 III, Mayer & Cie. is addressing a trend in the clothing industry that is reflected beyond Turkey: lightweight, elastic three-thread knitted fabrics in both pure cotton and blends.

New Control 5.0 machine control system
Both ITM machine exhibits were on display with the new Control 5.0 machine control system. Control 5.0 is a prerequisite for using knitlink, the hub for Mayer & Cie's digital applications. In this function, the machine control system attracted interest from various large customers.

In the standard SmartControl version, as shown in Istanbul, a so-called Smart Knob is attached to each machine foot. From there, all the functions that the machine operator needs for his work are available. More in-depth settings, such as those made by the knitting manager, are only possible from a mobile device. Any number of Mayer & Cie. machines can be operated from this at the same time.

knithawk
knithawk, a tool for optical defect detection, inspects the knitted fabric as it is produced. It sits in the single jersey machine directly at the knitting point. If knithawk detects a serious or recurring error, the machine is stopped. The tool also creates an error log.

Machine-specific upgrade and conversion kits
With its upgrade kits, Mayer & Cie. brings technological innovations to existing machines. These range from machine-specific upgrades, such as the Performance Kit for existing Relanit 3.2 models to the Senso Blue RS lubrication system.

In addition to the upgrade kits, Mayer & Cie. offers conversion kits for popular machine types. Two are currently available: for the MV4 3.2 II/MBF 3.2 and the S4-3.2 II/ SF4-3.2 III.

Guangxi Baisheng Textile Co., Ltd. signed an agreement with Rieter to implement the world’s first complete spinning process using Rieter’s latest air-jet spinning technology J 70.

This move will enable the vertically integrated textile company based in Guangxi, China, to further ensure a steady yarn supply for its knitting operations. Rieter’s air-jet spinning machine J 70 features 200 individually automated spinning units that independently manage quality cuts and natural ends down quickly and efficiently. The J 70 also boasts delivery speeds of up to 600 meters per minute and supports up to four lots simultaneously. In addition, Rieter’s latest generation yarn clearer identifies weak yarn during production.

Fashion industry leaders, organizations, and government representatives came together for the 2nd Bangladesh Circular Economy Summit in Dhaka to exchange insights and expertise aimed at advancing circularity within the apparel and textiles sector in Bangladesh.

The Summit, organized by the Bangladesh Apparel Exchange (BAE) in collaboration with German development cooperation agency GIZ and in association with the Embassy of the Kingdom of the Netherlands in Bangladesh at Radisson Blu Water Garden, Dhaka on June 11, spotlighted the importance and ways of transitioning from a linear economic model to one that prioritizes resource efficiency and waste reduction.

The discussions and engagement at the summit aimed at propelling the transition from a linear to a circular model in Bangladesh’s apparel and textile industries.

The summit began with an inaugural ceremony, followed by four insightful plenary sessions, three engaging panel discussions, and an innovative breakout session. Through these platforms, participants explored strategies to accelerate the adoption of circular practices within Bangladesh’s apparel and textile industries.

Speakers at the Opening ceremony

• H.E. Jahangir Kabir Nanak, Honorable Minister for Textiles & Jute, Government of the People’s Republic of Bangladesh,
• Mr. Siddiqur Rahman, former President of BGMEA
• Mr. Thijs Woudstra, Deputy Head of Mission, Embassy of the Kingdom of the Netherlands in Bangladesh
• Mr. Jan Janowski, Deputy Head of Mission, Embassy of Germany in Bangladesh
• Mr. Mostafiz Uddin, Founder & CEO, Bangladesh Apparel Exchange

The Western Development Commission (WDC) announces the successful funding of the THREAD project. Supported by the Interreg Northern Periphery and Arctic Programme, THREADs (Textile and Habiliment Reuse for the Environment and NPA Area Development) is set to launch a transformative three-year initiative starting in September 2024, focusing on innovative textile waste management.

THREADs aims to significantly reduce textile waste in the Northern Periphery and Arctic region. With a total budget of €1.5 million, the project will implement a range of innovative approaches across the textile lifecycle—from design to disposal. This initiative includes trialling smart waste collection methods, enhancing circular practices, and integrating social inclusion initiatives in circularity efforts. Additionally, the project will explore new business models to support sustainable practices.

The project unites a diverse group of partners from across Europe, reflecting a collaborative effort to tackle an urgent environmental issue. The lead partner, Kajaani University of Applied Sciences from Finland, is joined by other key stakeholders including the Municipality of Kittilä, Kiertokaari Ltd, Remiks Husholdning AS from Norway, Technological University of the Shannon – Forge Design Factory from Ireland, University of Boras and Lulea Miljoresurs AB from Sweden, and the Icelandic Textile Center.

The funding announcement marks a crucial step towards implementing effective solutions that address both the environmental impact of textile waste and the challenges posed by fast fashion in sparsely populated areas. By focusing on sustainability and efficient resource use, THREADs is poised to create meaningful change in the way textile management is approached in the NPA region.

KARL MAYER GROUP has developed a sophisticated system for considerable energy savings when operating the cylinder dryers in its PROSIZE® sizing machines and BLUEDYE dyeing plant.

Saving costs with inline energy recycling
The innovation is called CASCADE and focuses on steam as a heating medium in cylinder dryers. And for good reason: according to the IPCC report by ITMF Zurich, one tonne of steam cost between USD 20 and just under USD 27 internationally in 2021. The new solution relies on reuse to reduce the amount of process energy required.
"CASCADE recirculates parts of the process steam in cylinder dryers, enabling genuine, efficient energy recycling within the machine," explains Karl-Heinz Vaassen, Head of Textile Drying at KARL MAYER.
The customer benefits from significantly lower energy costs and CO2 emissions. With a view to the Asian market, a dryer with 14 cylinders and a running time of 7,000 working hours can achieve cost savings of up to USD 17,000 per year.

Precise, real savings values are available when looking at the machine dashboard. A sensor provides real-time data on the amount of steam circulating in the circuit, from which the corresponding reduction in CO2 equivalents can be calculated.

Utilizing the pressure drop
CASCADE reuses part of the invested process energy and uses the flash-steam in conjunction with the pressure ratios, which - nomen est omen - decrease in cascades in the different zones of the cylinder dryer.
The highest working pressure prevails in the first cylinder section. The heat transfer medium steam emits large amounts of energy for yarn drying and condenses without temperature loss.

The resulting hot condensate is not immediately discharged from the machine, but is instead fed into a flash tank, where vapor exhaust is formed as a result of the pressure reduction. In conventional systems, the carrier medium for gases is only created in the return line towards the boiler house and is eliminated as undesirable. Instead of being utilised in the process, it escapes into the environment. With the CASCADE system, this "freshly recycled steam" is used for the heat supply in the second cylinder section, but not without prior treatment.

In the system patented by KARL MAYER, the recycled steam is intelligently mixed with live steam and thus raised to the level of the required process conditions for use in the cylinder section at the end of the dryer. Here, the fabric moisture is reduced to the desired residual value at medium pressure and temperature conditions.

Market launch is underway
CASCADE was filed for patent by the KARL MAYER GROUP. It was published in September 2023.
The innovative solution at no extra charge was presented at ITM 2024 in Istanbul and was a visitor highlight at the KARL MAYER GROUP stand.

From January 2024, CASCADE will be part of the PROSIZE® as standard. The first sizing machine with the upgrade for greater energy efficiency will be delivered in the second quarter of this year. It will go to a manufacturer in Europe. In the next step, CASCADE will be integrated into other dryer types and will also be available for the BLUEDYE.

Archroma introduces COLOR MANAGEMENT+, an enhanced color design and development solution that helps textile and fashion brands and mills work together for improved economic and environmental sustainability.

Archroma COLOR MANAGEMENT+ incorporates the industry’s largest off-the-shelf color atlas selection, design tools and customized services for fast color selection and creation. It combines these with engineered color standards created with Archroma’s SUPER SYSTEMS+ for reduced environmental impact and consistent and accurate color reproduction.

With these end-to-end capabilities, brands and designers can focus on their color inspiration and on the required functionality and sustainability for their end article, with the assurance that their inspiration can be precisely communicated and efficiently executed at the mill.

Within COLOR MANAGEMENT+, the Color Atlas by Archroma® offers access to a collection of more than 5,700 unique colors for cotton, polyester and blends, both as a physical library and searchable online library. Designers also have the option to create custom colors.

Ahievability criteria are available for each color standard, whether in the Color Atlas or provided as an Engineered Color, at the selection phase. This includes information about the technical and economic feasibility of the selected color, along with a commitment to sustainability build on the foundation of the Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals (ZDHC) Manufacturing Restricted Substances List (MRSL) Level 3.

The COLOR MANAGEMENT+ color standards provide clear color communication to mill colorists, textile technologists and quality control specialists, helping them deliver the right color faster and achieving reproducible colors across countries and mills. Clear communications can also eliminate excessive lab dipping, shorten approval times and improve first-time-approval rates.

The color standards in COLOR MANAGEMENT+ are created with Archroma’s SUPER SYSTEMS+ solutions for bulk production in mind. Offering end article-specific processing solutions, durable colors and intelligent effects, the SUPER SYSTEMS+ suite allows brands to achieve measurable environmental impact, eliminate harmful or regulated chemicals, and add value and longevity to the end product.

The solution is further supported Archroma’s ONE WAY+ Impact Calculator and Sustainability Improvement Program (SIP), and SAFE EDGE+ compliance-data platform. Global technical support is provided to help the supply chain deliver the right colors with consistency and reduced environmental impact.