From the Sector

• AFRY engineering partner when Renewcell expands operations to lead the fashion industry into a sustainable and circular future

Renewcell has awarded AFRY an engineering assignment for their recycled textile materials production expansion at SCA's Ortviken paper mill in Sundsvall, Sweden. The assignment includes project and construction management services, process, mechanical and piping engineering, electrical, automation and instrumentation engineering, fire and HVAC design, as well as civil design. The project is a continuation of AFRY's previous feasibility studies.

The trend in textiles and design requires sustainable fashion. Customers require fashion companies to reduce their environmental impact through new technologies and innovations for the circular economy. One important element is recycling of textile fibers that is a path towards a more sustainable fashion.

Renewcell is a multi-award-winning textile recycling company based in Sweden. The company’s vision is to inspire an Industrial Evolution towards a sustainable world by producing high quality materials from recycled textiles. “There is a way to put fashion first without putting the environment in second place” – Renewcell describes their business concept. With their technology, the company has succeeded in recycling and regenerating textile fiber from old clothes to turn into new clothes. For example, H&M, a partner of Renewcell, has launched a garment that is half made with Renewcell’s fabric.

Today, Renewcell has a demo plant in Kristinehamn, Sweden, with the possibility to recycle over 4,500 tons of textiles each year. The company has now signed a major agreement with one of the world's largest producers of viscose fiber. With that as a basis, together with a well-proven process and technology, they are now building a full-scale production plant in Sundsvall, Sweden. When the new plant is ready for production, it will have the capacity to recycle 60,000 tons of textile waste annually, which is just over half of Sweden's annual textile consumption. The new plant is expected to be commissioned in 2022.

“We are pleased to continue the partnership with AFRY, which began with the feasibility study they delivered in 2020. With AFRY, we feel secure in having a partner with both world-leading expertise and the ability to deliver projects on time and within budget. Together, we lead the fashion industry into a sustainable and circular future,” says Christer Johansson, Project Director at Renewcell.

“We are extremely proud to be part of Renewcell’s investment. We are excited to contribute in this transition towards more sustainable solutions for the future and look forward to continue this journey together with Renewcell,” says Ulf Strenger, Business Unit Manager at AFRY.

• Next Jec World Will Take Place From March 8 To 10, 2022

The continued impact of the Covid-19 pandemic unfolding throughout 2021 has forced the JEC World team to reexamine the possibility of holding the next edition of JEC World this year. Thus, after thorough consultation of clients and partners, the JEC World team has decided to postpone the next edition of JEC World to March 8 to 10, 2022.

Amidst growing concern among our exhibitors and partners surrounding the critical situation of the Covid 19 restrictive measures and other limitations in place in many countries, the JEC World team has decided to work on a new timeline to hold the next edition of the event in the best conditions in 2022. Thus, JEC World exhibitors were asked to respond to a survey offering two new dates to determine which one would suit them the most. It appeared that 89% of respondents favored holding the next JEC World session from March 8 to 10, 2022.

“The coronavirus pandemic situation has taken the central stage, so in light of the current situation, it would not be possible for us to satisfy our customers’ requirements for such an international trade fair as JEC World in June. We truly regret having to make this difficult decision once again. However, we are all committed, starting today, to deliver the best JEC World experience to our clients in 2022.” says Eric Pierrejean, CEO of JEC Group. “While waiting for welcoming the international composites community back to Paris in March 2022, JEC Group team is preparing various online Rendez-Vous in June enabling the entire composites community to discover trends and innovations, and to connect″, he added.

The leading composites event will take place from March 8 to 10, 2022, at Paris Nord Villepinte (same venue) and online for a new augmented experience.

As the leading trade show of the composites industry, JEC World will bring together the whole composites materials value chain and professionals from application sectors, experts from the scientific and academic world, associations, and media from more than 112 countries, introducing in 2022 its audience its new digital platform, JEC World Augmented.

“JEC World 2022 and the augmented platform  will bring the international composites community and specialists together to resume business, network, hold business meetings. They will also have the chance to participate in conferences, workshops, and discover the latest composites innovations,” says Adeline Larroque, Show director and EMEA events.

Flexibility, product uniformity and automation are the keys to success for coating businesses in today’s rapidly-changing technical textiles industry, explained Jürgen Hanel, Monforts Head of Technical Textiles, at the recent 1st World Congress on Textile Coating.

Introducing the latest Montex®Coat magnetic roller coating option to virtual delegates from around the world at the conference organised by International Newsletters, Hanel explained why this technology makes perfect sense now

“The magnetic roller system allows a wide range of coatings and finishes to be carried out, while being easy to handle for operators and much easier to clean at the end of the process,” he said. “It provides textile finishers with an expanded range of options due to the fully-adjustable positioning of the magnet within the roller and with four different magnet positions possible, can be set to operate both as a direct coating system and as an indirect coater.”

With traditional dip coating systems, he added, as well as with many standard knife coating technologies, there is always a difference in the tension between the centre and the edges of the wide width fabrics being treated – and hence the amount of pressure with which the coating is applied. With the use of a magnetic roller, equal pressure is applied across the full width of the fabric, with consistent results even at wide widths of over 2.4 metres. In addition, adjusting the roller surface, rather than changing the coating formulation to match the required add-on and viscosity for each coating effect required, leads to much higher output from the line.

Cleaner and less wasteful
The contribution of such flexible and resource-saving new technologies to a cleaner and less wasteful textile industry was a key theme at the congress – held virtually across the four afternoons of February 11th, 12th, 18th and 19th – as was digitalization and the many advantages it is providing.

“A typical integrated Monforts coating line is automated from the inlet feed to the winder,” Hanel told delegates. “Adjustments can also be made simply and easily from the touchscreen and with the new hand-held remote controller which has recently been introduced for the Montex®Coat unit.”

Manual adjustment, he added, is time consuming and needs the attention of an experienced operator or the reproducibility will not be accurate between coating operations. The adjustment by motors allows each coating to be stored and downloaded again for 100% reproducibility.

The motors can be fully controlled from the touchscreen and all necessary adjustments carried out remotely, making switching from one process to another extremely quick and easy.
The accuracy that is now being demanded by today’s most exacting customers is met with an optional carbon fibre roller – especially in dealing with the winding tension required in the processing of materials such as prepregs for composites and other heavyweight fabrics. Typical applications for the Montex®Coat include the finishing of tents and awnings, black-out roller blinds and sail cloth, automotive interior fabrics and medical disposables. Full PVC coatings, pigment dyeing or minimal application surface and low penetration treatments can all be accommodated.

“The World Congress on Textile Coating was characterised by some very stimulating presentations and forums between the speakers and a global audience of textile specialists,” Jürgen Hanel concluded. “It truly reflected the high level of positive changes now taking place in not just textile coating, but the entire textile industry. I look forward to the next edition, which hopefully will be a face-to-face event for even deeper level discussions and debate.”

Tonello and RUDOLF HUB1922 join forces and unveil laser effects. The results: A much simplified, flexible and efficient process - based on latest technological advancements and highly conscious chemistry - that is finally able to replace questionable practices such as potassium permanganate spray.

THE Laser, the absolute Laser
The range that is the new benchmark for the entire sector. New software and a totally reinvented process that return higher precision, speed, flexibility and repeatability. Four models for a specific crafting and avant-garde functions like 360° marking technology, BOP for automatic drawing positioning and the new software CREA make THE Laser suitable and unique for advanced applications.

Laser Smoother (RUCO-SPECIAL LSM)
All-in-one formulation - very easy to pre-apply to garments before laser burning - that translates into a very natural image that is similar to what is created by hand. RUCO SPECIAL LSM amplifies the laser action, completely removes the grey/brow patina produced by the burning of cotton and last but not least, creates a micro-unevenness that simulates manual scraping and celebrates the fabric construction.

The combination of THE Laser and RUCO-SPECIAL LSM (ideally applied through CORE system) is a process that nothing adds to the usual way of working. It is a radical paradigm shift that takes the product directly to a dimension of real, highly sustainable craftsmanship:

• Remarkable enhancement of the fabric’s characteristics;
• Overall effect much more natural and similar to manual scraping;
• A better and more efficient way of working.

Since 2014, Iluna Group Srl stands out for braiding together the values of beauty, innovation and responsibility.
The company achieved this with Iluna Lab, a cutting-edge research and development centre where laces are conceived and engineered to become sustainable ingredients for the contemporary wardrobe.
The smart values are attested by the STeP - Sustainable Textile Production by Oeko – Tex® certification for its ethic approach. “We are also the first lace producer to have gained the GRS - Global Recycled Standard for transformed products, and whose products are all certified OEKO-TEX® Standard 100.” Comments Walter Colombo, Technical Director at Iluna Group Srl.
 Moreover, in recognition of the great value of responsible innovation, Iluna Group is now officially a partner of C.L.A.S.S., the international ecohub founded in 2007 by Giusy Bettoni, a reference point in the fashion and textile sector for all those who want to make fashion smarter.

Now the company announces two important collaborations with Néné Paris and NOO, “two booming French brands which have intercepted and share our values and vision for sustainability where beauty and innovation are key”.

Néné focuses on preserving natural resources using only upcycled fabrics or fabrics made with recycled fibers. Each and every step of the production is entirely made in Europe.

French independent designer brand NOO creates exquisite lingerie, timeless ready-to-wear garments and bold cut swimwear and bodysuit for women. The brand pays extreme care to aesthetics and details at every step of the production process, from sourcing materials to waste reduction, choosing factories and using recyclable packagings.

International technology Group ANDRITZ has received an order from Lotus Teknik A.Ş., Turkey, to supply a neXline wetlace CP (carded pulp) line for the production of biodegradable, plastic-free wet wipes. Lotus Teknik A.Ş. is a leading nonwoven roll good producer and a member of the Sapro group. Sapro is based in Istanbul, Turkey, and is one of the top three producers of wet wipes globally.  

The neXline wetlace CP line is equipped with state-of-the-art stock preparation equipment, including approach flow and fan pump, opening and blending, TT card, wetlaid forming unit for pulp application, a hydroentanglement system, filtration unit, dewatering, and through-air drying. All components are perfectly designed to produce a first-class biodegradable wipe. The line is scheduled for start-up by the end of 2021.

ANDRITZ developed the new neXline wetlace CP line in order to serve the new market trend of sustainable wipes. Lotus Teknik supported the development from a roll goods producer and converter perspective. The partnership follows the successful installation of an ANDRITZ high-capacity spunlace line some years ago. The Wetlace CP new generation of production technology for biodegradable wipes has resulted from ANDRITZ’s extensive knowledge and considerable history of providing technologies for wood-based industries, spunlace and wetlaid roll goods, and the strong collaboration with Lotus Teknik.

Hexcel is pleased to announce Type Approval Certification of its HexPly® M9 prepreg materials by DNV GL. The addition of the HexPly M9 prepreg range to Hexcel’s already comprehensive DNV GL certified portfolio provides ship and boat builders with optimal prepreg processing options.

HexPly M9 prepregs enable short cure cycles at 100˚C and above and provide a balance between ease of processing and mechanical performance. Available in high tack and medium tack variants, HexPly M9 prepregs are available with a wide range of unidirectional, woven, and multiaxial reinforcements. Partnered with Hexcel’s own HexTow® IMC2 and HexTow® HM54 / HM63 fibers, designers and engineers can optimize highly loaded composite structures such as masts, wing sails, and foils with increased glass transition temperatures (Tg) and excellent long-term fatigue performance.
 
Hexcel has completed the DNV GL certification for HexPly M9 in response to the rapidly increasing demand for type-approved high-performance prepreg materials for large composite structures in the commercial marine craft.  

Hexcel’s collaboration with Chantiers de l’Atlantique on its new Silenseas cruise ship concept – a concept that uses composite Solid Sail® propulsion as well as dual-fuel engines to reduce emissions and operating costs – is one such application. In this case, DNV GL type approval provides third-party assurance of the product’s quality, performance and consistency, and also helps to streamline the approval of composite parts that replace traditionally metallic structures.

Hexcel has supplied advanced composite materials to the marine industry for more than 40 years and manufactures a comprehensive range of DNV GL certified products including woven reinforcements, multiaxial fabrics, prepregs, and adhesive films. Hexcel is committed to developing new composite technologies for the marine sector, helping builders evolve their designs to produce lighter, more fuel-efficient, and a sustainable craft for the future.

“Our latest Type Approval Certification is an important part of our strategy to provide the most complete package of DNV GL certified composite materials for the marine sector,” said Andreas Sageder, Product Manager at Hexcel. “With the addition of our M9 prepreg resin systems, mast, ship, and boat builders have an expanded range of processing and cure options available for parts requiring higher Tg and improved fatigue performance.”

Kornit Digital, a worldwide market leader in digital textile printing technology, announced Westerbroek, Groningen-based Reclameland has invested nearly €20 million in a second production hall and state-of-the-art machines, including the Kornit Atlas system for industrial direct-to-garment (DTG) production on demand, in the past year to further accelerate growth. The fastest-growing online printer in the Netherlands, Reclameland achieved a turnover of almost €23 million in 2019 and a profit of more than €1 million.

Now the second-largest business of its type in the Netherlands, Reclameland’s workforce grew by 20% in the past year, enabling them to handle most production operations internally. They attributed increased demand for printed pieces to a strong growth in online buying, for both consumers and businesses.

“2019 marked the definitive breakthrough of online printing, and we have established ourselves as a total print solutions provider for signage, banners, posters, flags, and other digitally printed textiles,” says Wouter Haan, CEO of Reclameland.  "By continuously innovating, we can serve every type of customer. Our investment in Kornit technology has empowered us to imprint more than a thousand garments per day with a single operator, meeting the retail quality, wash and light fastness, and sustainability standards of the world’s largest apparel brands.”

“Reclameland demonstrates the vast opportunities on-demand producers have when they diversify their product offerings and align their operations for a marketplace that increasingly relies on e-commerce,” says Chris Govier, KDEU Managing Director. “Kornit technology offers the perfect foundation for making that business model a success, eliminating slow and costly steps between buyers seeing a brilliantly-designed piece virtually and having it in their hands. We are proud to support Reclameland as they grow to fulfill the promise of digital commerce.”

From 25 – 27 August, 2021, Intertextile Shanghai Home Textiles – Autumn Edition will join forces with Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Fabrics – Autumn Edition, Yarn Expo Autumn, PH Value and CHIC to showcase the latest products and services within the entire textile sector. Collectively, the fairs are set to offer valuable synergistic effects for the home décor, apparel, yarn and fibre industries.

Despite the disruption caused by the pandemic, the Autumn Edition of Intertextile Shanghai Home Textiles 2020 was able to go ahead as scheduled to support the industry’s recovery. The three-day show welcomed a total of 26,673 trade buyers from 43 countries & regions, as well as 643 exhibitors from 11 countries & regions. What’s more, the show’s virtual events drew 558,179 attendees from across the world.

“We are delighted that Intertextile 2020 was able to run as planned and received positive feedback from participants. It is a confirmation of our leading position in the Asian industry, and our unwavering commitment to providing the best trade platform for our exhibitors and visitors that reflects market demands,” said Ms Wendy Wen, Senior General Manager of Messe Frankfurt (HK) Ltd. “As we continue to navigate through these challenging times, we look forward to developing more creative and flexible solutions to adapt to the ever-changing business environment. The 2021 edition will continue with the hybrid format that combines both physical and virtual events, in order to facilitate contacts between suppliers and buyers worldwide, and open up new opportunities in the post-pandemic era.”
 
“Additionally, we decided to hold Intertextile Shanghai Home Textiles concurrently with Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Fabrics and Yarn Expo next year. Holding these three events at the same time and place will generate exciting synergistic effects, as well as provide a comprehensive sourcing platform for participants. And, of course, the show will present a series of high-quality fringe events for fairgoers to gain the latest market trends and insights,” Ms Wen added.

Discover a new season of inspiration at Intertextile
At the upcoming fair, exhibitors will fill four halls at the National Exhibition and Convention Center (Shanghai), occupying an area of 100,000 sqm. To offer a more efficient and convenient sourcing experience for buyers, the fair will once again feature an array of product zones and country & region pavilions including:

• Country & region pavilions: presented by Belgium, India, Pakistan, Taiwan and Turkey.
• Carpet zone: featuring renowned domestic and international providers of carpets and floor coverings.
• Editor zone: offering high-quality upholstery fabrics from prominent European manufacturers.
• Finished product zone: international suppliers will showcase their latest finished goods for a variety of applications.
• Textile design zone: leading design studios will exhibit their creative ideas and products for all areas of the interior markets.
• Textile technology zone: presenting cutting-edge textile technologies which can achieve flexibility, efficiency and sustainability.
• Contract business: leading suppliers will offer a vast portfolio of functional fabrics catering to different interior settings such as hotels, restaurants and public spaces.

Hologenix, creators of Celliant®, infrared responsive technology, and Kelheim Fibres, a world-leading manufacturer of viscose specialty fibers, have partnered to launch Celliant Viscose at ISPO Munich 2021. Celliant Viscose is a finalist in Best Products by ISPO and will be showcased in the Fibers & Insulations Category for ISPO Textrends, where realistic views and 3-D simulations will be available for each material.

The introduction of nature-based Celliant Viscose will be the first in-fiber infrared sustainable solution on the market and meets a consumer demand for more environmentally friendly textiles. An alternative to synthetic fibers and extremely versatile, Celliant Viscose blends beautifully with cotton, micromodal, lyocell, wool varieties including cashmere. It also has many applications across industries as it is ideal for performance wear, luxury loungewear, casual wear and bedding.

Celliant Viscose features natural, ethically sourced minerals embedded into plant-based fibers to create infrared products that capture and convert body heat into infrared, increasing local circulation and improved cellular oxygenation. This results in stronger performance, faster recovery and better sleep.

Celliant Viscose provides all the benefits of being a viscose fiber — lightweight, soft, highly breathable, excellent moisture management — as well as fiber enhancements from Celliant infrared technology. Celliant’s proprietary blend of natural minerals allows textiles to capture and convert body heat into full-spectrum infrared energy, resulting in stronger performance, faster recovery and better sleep. In addition, Celliant is durable and will not wash out, lasting the useful life of the product it powers.

An Affordable, Long-lasting Solution with Diverse Applications
As opposed to other IR viscose products which are coatings based, Celliant Viscose’s in-fiber solution increases wearability and longevity with a soft feel, durability from washing and longer life. The combination of Kelheim’s distinctive technology and the Celliant additives creates this unique fiber that provides full functionality without the need for any additional processing step — a new standard in the field of sustainable IR viscose fibers. This single processing also makes Celliant Viscose more cost-effective and time-efficient than coatings.

In addition, Kelheim’s flexible technology allows targeted interventions in the viscose fiber process. By modifying the fiber’s dimensions or cross sections or by incorporating additives into the fiber matrix, Kelheim can precisely define the fiber’s properties according to the specific needs of the end product.

Highly Sustainable
Celliant Viscose is a plant and mineral-based solution for brands seeking an alternative to synthetic fibers. It contains natural raw materials that are from the earth and can return safely to the earth.

Nature-based Celliant Viscose is certified by FSC® or PEFC™, which guarantees the origin in sustainably managed plantations, and is part of the CanopyStyle initiative to protect ancient and endangered forests. The production of Celliant Viscose takes place exclusively at the Kelheim facilities in Germany, complying with the country’s strict environmental laws and guaranteeing an overall eco-friendly product.

Backed by Science
Celliant is rigorously tested by a Science Advisory Board composed of experts in the fields of physics, biology, chemistry and medicine. The Science Advisory Board has overseen 10 clinical, technical and physical trials, and seven published studies that demonstrate Celliant’s effectiveness and the benefits of infrared energy.

For more information, visit www.celliant.com/celliant-viscose/