From the Sector

As the role of lingerie in fashion and athleisure continues to augment, the desire for garments that will meet a new set of values for contemporary consumer lifestyles will flourish.   
ROICA™ takes this year’s Interfilière visitors on an inspirational journey, aimed at encouraging weavers, designers and brands to “engineer” their portfolio of products in new and exciting ways. The company sets a whole new standard in how creativity and responsibility can come together for a new generation of wardrobe solutions dedicated to the contemporary consumer, carving out a new kind of fashion future.
 
For Interfilière 2019, ROICA™ tells the story of its five unique yarn families brought to life through a precious partnership system and exploring three key themes: heritage, innovation and lifestyle.

ROICA™ marks its first presence at Denim Première Vision in Milan focusing on its premium sustainable stretch offer and key partnership with Candiani.

The City of Milan, the cool atmosphere of Superstudio Più, and Denim Première Vision are the perfect show-window for ROICA ™ to introduce its key eco - high tech premium stretch stories and partnerships in the market able to offer real advanced denim experiences to visitors.Let’s start from the ROICA™ and Candiani partnership: shared vision, aligned mindset and DNA that reveal a common deep commitment to reach a new level of innovation that embodies responsibility with amazing look and touch! These were the premises that lead to the partnership between ROICA™ and Candiani which generated a very special ROICA™ yarn realized only for Candiani. A premium stretch yarn that is boasting a GRS  (Global  Recycled  Standard)  version  4  certification,  thanks  to  its  high  percentage  of  recycled  content  and appropriated process of transformation.  This ad hoc ROICA™ sustainable stretch solution perfectly fit the  new  amazing  Candiani ReLast line,  the  range  of  market  fresh  responsible  denim  products  whose  objective is to introduce a 100% transformed innovative solution.

For the cooperation with Lidl within the project “Biodegradable textiles with prints” the CHT Group developed innovative recyclable textile print products.

These Lidl textiles are produced with CHT print pastes and pigments and were certificated by the internationally active consulting institute EPEA GmbH - Part of Drees & Sommer according to the Cradle to Cradle Certified™ Gold Standard. With this pilot project the companies demonstrate their sense of responsibility for people and the environment as well as their commitment in the field of circular economy.

According to the Cradle to Cradle approach, shortly C2C, products shall merge into a biological or technical cycle after the end of their life cycle. This re-use helps prevent waste and save raw materials. The impact on the environment and health of all of the ingredients of C2C textiles is already tested in the design stage and during manufacturing. C2C experts additionally ensure a gapless control of the manufacturing processes. They check the chemicals in use, make sure that the water is kept clean and that renewable energies are used. Since this control affects the complete textile supply chain, it guarantees absolute transparency.

The CHT Group can now offer high quality and sustainable substitutes for common textile print pastes with its first biodegradable print pastes and pigments.

Textile innovator Devan Chemicals will launch two new technologies at the upcoming Techtextil show in Frankfurt (May 14-17). Bio-flam, a bio-based flame retardant product and Odour Breakdown, a wash durable, non-biocidal odour control solution.
As tradition goes, every two years Devan participates in Techtextil, the leading international trade fair for technical textiles and nonwovens. In the quest for sustainability and transparency every company faces these days, the new Devan technologies offer answers to product developers and portfolio designers.

Bio-flam
Some facts & figures: There are at least 5000 fire incidents each day in the EU. Yearly, about 70 000 people are hospitalised with fire-related injuries. Fires cause pollution. So sustainable fire performance of products is an economic, environmental and human necessity. Take the example of mattresses: tests indicate that when on fire, non-FR treated products give less than 5 minutes escape time. Unfortunately, that is not enough time for the fire brigade to arrive. Needless to say that to increase escape time, to reduce the risk and to save lives, products need to be flame retardant. The challenge is to obtain flame retardant properties in the most natural way, to find the right balance between safety for the people and for the planet.

Companies can do this by replacing raw materials from a non-renewable source, by bio-based FR treatments, which are made from renewable sources and do not contain halogens or heavy metals, as described in the norm EN 16785 1:2015. Bio-based FR treatments, like Bio-flam, are made from renewable, vegetable sources and enable the FR treated products to be biodegradable. The active components are 100% halogen- and heavy metal-free. A welcome innovation for the bedding industry, as the European Commission requires mattresses to be recyclable by 2030 in order to reduce landfill.

Bio-flam P307 is the first introduction in the new Devan BIO-FR family, and is biodegradable and is developed to be used on 100% cotton or cotton/viscose mixtures, in order to create an ecological concept, safe for people and planet, whatever might happen. Bio-flam P 307 is developed for mattress ticking to pass EN 597 1&2. The Devan researchers are developing other bio-based products for other market segments and for other fire standards.

The innovative technology addresses the growing need for on-demand textile design and production

Kornit Digital, a global market leader in digital textile printing innovation, has announced the introduction of the new Kornit Presto, the only industrial single-step solution for direct-to-fabric printing. The Kornit Presto solution eliminates the need for pre and post treatment of fabric and allows for high-quality printing on a broad variety of fabric types and applications. The Kornit Presto does not consume water in the printing process, making it a environmentally friendly solution.

The new Kornit Presto comes with the NeoPigment Robusto, a Pigment-based ink. Implemented into the Kornit NeoPigmentTM process, the Robusto provides above industry standard wash and rub results and exceptional color fastness across a wide fabric and application range. The Robusto enjoys faster physical and chemical bonding characteristics, enabling a significantly shorter curing time, while providing quality and a wide color gamut.

The Kornit Presto solution suits a wide range of business and application needs in a variety of industry segments, including fast growing segments within the on-demand fashion and home décor markets. It is a highly productive solution, available in multiple configurations and able to print 450 square meters per hour.

Gart Davis, CEO at Spoonflower, the world’s first web-based service for custom, on-demand fabric and design creation and a long-time Kornit customer, commented, “We were thrilled to be able to test the new system and found the Presto to be in a class by itself; it prints beautifully on all kinds of fabrics, in a single-step, with an environmentally friendly dry process, and now at a multiple of productivity.  Our partnership with Kornit continues to be fundamental to our mission to make custom fabric accessible to designers, creative individuals and small businesses all over the world. We can’t wait to get going.”

• Challenging market environment due to low prices for standard viscose, less favorable exchange rates and higher raw material and energy prices
• Very positive development of specialty fiber business with revenue share exceeding 45 percent
• Dividend proposal of EUR 3.00/share plus a special dividend of EUR 2.00/share
• Results for 2019 expected at about the level of 2018 despite a significantly more demanding market environment

The Lenzing Group’s business developed well in the 2018 financial year. A significantly more challenging market environment led to a decline in revenue as well as earnings compared with the record results of the previous year. This was primarily caused by lower selling prices for standard viscose, exchange rate effects as well as higher raw material and energy costs.

Group revenue declined by 3.7 percent compared with the previous year to EUR 2.18 bn. The predicted challenging market environment for standard viscose, plus less favorable exchange rates and a slight decline in sales volume were the key contributing factors. EBITDA (earnings before interest, tax, depreciation and amortization) was down by 24 percent to EUR 382 million due to price increases for key raw materials and higher energy and personnel costs. The EBITDA margin dropped from 22.2 percent in the 2017 financial year to 17.6 percent in the reporting year. EBIT (earnings before interest and tax) fell by 36 percent to EUR 237.6 mn, leading to a lower EBIT margin of 10.9 percent (2017: 16.4 percent). Net profit for the year after one-off effects dropped by 47.4 percent from EUR 281.7 mn in the previous year to EUR 148.2 mn. Earnings per share equaled EUR 5.61 (2017: EUR 10.47).

The Management Board and the Supervisory Board will propose a stable dividend of EUR 3.00 per share plus a special dividend of EUR 2.00 per share at the upcoming Annual General Meeting. In total, the paid dividend will amount to EUR 5.00 per share, corresponding to a dividend payment to shareholders of roughly EUR 133 mn.

• HPR is the highest status a plant can achieve for fire risk prevention and protection
• The site Beaulieu Fibres International is the fourth in the Beaulieu International Group to reach HPR status
• Underlines Group’s commitment to risk prevention at B.I.G. sites & to reinforcing our strong business contingency plan

Beaulieu Fibres International, one of the leading polyolefin staple fibre producers, is pleased to announce the achievement of Highly Protected Risk (HPR) status for its production site in Wielsbeke, a designation that means a facility meets the highest industry standards for property protection.

HPR status was awarded by FM Global, Beaulieu International Group’s (B.I.G.) industrial property and business interruption insurer for the past three years. The company offers B.I.G a unique concept that supports the Group in reducing its exposure to loss and increasing its business resilience. A dedicated worldwide team of engineers focuses on providing assistance and protection of its assets, helping the Group to achieve a higher level of risk protection.

The Beaulieu Fibres International site produces high performance fibres for a large variety of applications and market segments. It scored exceptionally well in its FM Global assessment which focused on aspects including fire protection, protection against natural hazards, mechanical breakdown of machinery, cyber risks and consequent business interruption.

Its overall risk mark of 83 ranks it within the top 25% of its industry for fire risk prevention and protection.

Commenting on the Award, Maria Teresa Tomaselli, Global Sales Director Fibres, said: “This HPR fibre production site reinforces strongly our supply chain security and demonstrates our engagement towards our customers and partners. Our contingency planning and risk management are essential, well-considered elements within our long-term business strategy to demanding sectors such as Automotive, Geotextiles, Flooring industries.”

Michelman, a global developer and manufacturer of environmentally friendly advanced materials, including sizing for glass and carbon fiber, has invested in the FIMATEST adhesion measurement system to ensure their sizing solutions continue to contribute to enhanced performance of composite parts.

“As we continue our vision to be the interface expert, it is critical to have analytical equipment that can efficiently fine-tune our sizing to optimize adhesion properties. This is one of the key performance attributes we provide our customers, and the fact that the Textechno FIMATEST system works according to the fiber pull-out principle makes it extremely valuable”, explains Steve Bassetti, Michelman’s Global Marketing Director for Industrial Manufacturing. “We have utilized this equipment in our development lab for almost two years, and it is suited for any fiber-matrix combination we have developed. It has been helpful that Textechno developed these instruments because they are, and will continue to be, a great benefit to the entire Composites industry. We look forward to supporting Textechno in establishing more standardization for the Industry regarding fiber-matrix-adhesion and processing properties.“

Dr. Ulrich Mörschel, CEO of Textechno, added: “We are proud that Michelman, the industry’s leading interface expert, invested in our testing system.” Bassetti further elaborated on the system’s benefits: “For Michelman’s customers, this equipment has allowed for great collaboration, increased screening of sizing concepts, and a more robust and efficient product development process.”

Driven by its natural inclination for the implementation of smart and innovative solutions fully in line with the latest global fashion trends, Iluna Group with ROICA™ by Asahi Kasei join the latest edition of the Italian tradeshow Milano Unica, conceived, organized and driven by entrepreneurs, to offer international visibility to the world of textiles in a highly qualified context, in line with the quality of its products.

Experts in the production of stretch lace since 1985, ILUNA today represents the largest European laces’producer. Thanks to the effectiveness of their approach and to their solid and continued commitment, Iluna Group has been the very first lace producer to receive the GRS (Global Recycled Standard) certification for their transformed products, together with the company certification STeP (Sustainable Textile Production by Oeko –Tex®).

A relevant achievement for the firm that, thanks to the Green Label collection (a peculiar range that features a 360-degree responsible approach) made responsible innovation a key value for its production that focuses on smart ingredients as ROICA Eco-Smart™ family, TENCEL™ Lyocell and Q-Nova® by Fulgar.

The international home textiles industry has enjoyed a promising start at Heimtextil in Frankfurt am Main, which finished Friday, 11 January. The challenging economic situation and uncertainty in the retail sector were countered by a positive and confident mood at the world’s leading trade fair.

3025 exhibitors from 65 countries* took the international trade fair for home and contract textiles to a 15-year high: ‘Exhibitors and visitors accepted the new trade fair concept with great enthusiasm and confirmed the trade fair’s position as the world’s most important meeting place for the industry. The quality of the decision-makers impressed the exhibitors, as did the number of new business contacts from 156 countries, especially international ones – thus enabling Heimtextil to set a new benchmark’, says Detlef Braun, Member of the Board of Management of Messe Frankfurt. ‘Around 67,500 visitors* ensured that there was a busy atmosphere in the halls, despite a slight decline due to various reasons, such as difficult travel conditions on account of the storms in the alpine region and airport strikes in Germany’. [*For comparison, 2018: 2,975 exhibitors from 64 countries; 68,584 visitors from 135 countries, FKM-tested)]

3025 exhibitors from 65 countries* took the international trade fair for home and contract textiles to a 15-year high: ‘Exhibitors and visitors accepted the new trade fair concept with great enthusiasm and confirmed the trade fair’s position as the world’s most important meeting place for the industry. The quality of the decision-makers impressed the exhibitors, as did the number of new business contacts from 156 countries, especially international ones – thus enabling Heimtextil to set a new benchmark’, says Detlef Braun, Member of the Board of Management of Messe Frankfurt. ‘Around 67,500 visitors* ensured that there was a busy atmosphere in the halls, despite a slight decline due to various reasons, such as difficult travel conditions on account of the storms in the alpine region and airport strikes in Germany’.

One topic that occupied both exhibitors and visitors was the current and future economic situation. A further challenge is the increasingly evident changes that are happening in trade. Increasing revenues and revenue shares in online retailing stand in the way of the efforts made by the stationary retail trade to maintain their inner-city businesses. ‘The small business specialist trade, but also department stores and multibrand stores, and thus the heart of our visitor target groups, are under pressure from the constantly increasing levels of e-commerce. With Heimtextil and our consumer goods fairs in general, we offer these retailers in particular clear perspectives and diverse inspiration in an ambiguous world’, continues Braun.

Heimtextil made it easier for its visitors to access valuable inspiration and business momentum thanks to an optimised trade fair concept and the associated new hall structure. ‘The new concept brought more visitors to the stand’, was the feedback from Andreas Klenk, Managing Director of Saum & Viebahn from Kulmbach in Franconia about hall 8.0 which offered textiles editeurs and manufacturers of curtain and sun protection systems a common platform for the first time. ‘It was the right decision to merge the different segments. We had high quality discussions with respect to both export and domestic business, and are satisfied with the trade fair’.

As part of the new concept, Heimtextil expanded its unique product range across the entire exhibition site and also included the new hall 12, which has been an additional architectural highlight on the Frankfurt exhibition grounds since September.

Top international companies from the Bed & Bath Fashion segment presented their wares here. For the company Curt Bauer from Aue in Saxony, the première of the new hall was a successful one. ‘We're very enthusiastic about the new hall 12. The product range there was very well received. We are very satisfied with the quality of visitors to our stand. In addition to a good frequency of German visitors, we are particularly pleased about growth from China and Russia’, says Managing Director Michael Bauer.

Natural materials, PET and ocean plastics 
Heimtextil set a standard in terms of sustainability: after the first global climate protection agreement for the textile industry was signed by 40 leading fashion companies, organisations and associations at the World Climate Conference in Katowice last December, the focus in Frankfurt was also on environmental progress in the textile industry. Numerous exhibitors presented progressive solutions, for example in the recycling of PET bottles and ocean plastic as well as in the use of certified natural materials. ‘Sustainability was the theme for us at this year’s Heimtextil. Major media players visited us and the 'Green Tour’ guided tour stopped by. We presented many things, including our first vegan duvet and fair silk products, all 100 per cent produced in Austria’, says Denise Hartmann, Marketing Manager at Hefel Textil. The topics of water consumption in the textile industry and microplastics also increasingly came to the fore. The exhibitor directory ‘Green Directory’ alone contained around 150 progressive companies listing sustainably produced textiles. The offer was supplemented by its own lecture series as well as theme-specific tours, which provided valuable impetus and
underpinned the pioneering green position of the trade fair.

Sleep becomes new lifestyle theme
Heimtextil also focused on sleep as one of the upcoming lifestyle trends. While a balanced diet and sufficient exercise are now a natural part of a healthy lifestyle, restorative sleep is still neglected* although it is one of the most important building blocks for long-term physical and mental well-being. At Heimtextil, a number of new products and aspects came to the fore that help people become sensitised to and analyse their sleep behaviour and promote healthy sleep. Around the redesigned hall 11.0 and in the adjoining lecture area ‘Sleep! The Future Forum’, representatives from the national and international bed industry enjoyed attractive product presentations and superb speeches on the topics of sustainability, hospitality, sport and digital.

In addition to the renowned trend show, the trade fair also focused on contract business, particularly in the hotel and hospitality sector, as well as decorative and upholstery fabrics, digital printing solutions and wallpapers.

The next Heimtextil in Frankfurt am Main – its 50th edition – will take place from 7 to 10 January 2020.

*According to a forsa investigation commissioned by the Techniker Krankenkasse