From the Sector

Fibre pollution is a growing threat to ecosystems. Yet, key knowledge gaps on the causes of fibre shedding and uncertainties around testing fibre loss have made it challenging for brands and manufacturers to take informed action.

To help close these gaps and advance the industry’s understanding about fibre fragmentation, Fashion for Good and The Microfibre Consortium launched “Behind the Break: Exploring Fibre Fragmentation” alongside key partners.  

Alongside the comprehensive report published in March, the project delivered a landmark study which tested three fabric archetypes (Cotton Knit, Polyester Knit, and Cotton Woven - Denim) across multiple laboratories and test methods using a controlled design of experiments. Key findings revealed:

• The differences and best use cases of existing methods used to measure fibre loss 
• Consistent fibre shedding trends across laboratories, with minimal sample contamination 
• Directional insights on key variables influencing fibre loss across each fabric archetype

For a detailed breakdown of the project approach, results, and next steps, access the full closing study.

Global Fashion Agenda (GFA) announced the launch of the Circular Fashion Partnership: Türkiye, a new initiative that aims to support the development of a circular textile system in the country by capturing and recycling post-industrial textile waste. Announced during Sustainability Talks Istanbul, the partnership is led by GFA in collaboration with national lead Rematters, supported by implementation partners Reverse Resources, Closed Loop Fashion, and Circle Economy Foundation and funded by H&M Foundation.

Set to commence in early 2026, the Circular Fashion Partnership: Türkiye aims to establish textile waste management systems within factories, enhance traceability through digital tools, and connect manufacturers with recyclers to ensure higher-value recovery of post-industrial textile waste. The programme will also provide supplier support on compliance with evolving policy frameworks and foster national collaboration to drive systemic change. GFA is now calling on brands producing in Türkiye to participate in the programme.

As one of the world’s leading apparel manufacturing hubs, Türkiye is uniquely positioned to scale textile-to-textile recycling due to its vertically integrated industry, proximity to the EU, and increasing regulatory pressure to reduce waste and emissions. The Circular Fashion Partnership: Türkiye will build on these strengths by developing scalable models for improved waste segregation, fibre-to-fibre recycling, and domestic recovery routes that reduce dependency on virgin materials and landfill.

The programme is part of the Global Circular Fashion Forum (GCFF), a wider initiative led by Global Fashion Agenda to advance post-industrial textile recycling through local partnerships in manufacturing regions. Building on successful implementation in Bangladesh, Cambodia, and Indonesia, the Circular Fashion Partnership: Türkiye becomes the fourth national programme to deploy this model — which has already digitally traced over 21,000 tonnes of textile waste and connected more than 100 factories and 20 global brands to recycling partners across its programmes. The locally owned and led partnership in Türkiye will be customised to the regional context, while drawing on best practices from other countries. Throughout 2026, the Circular Fashion Partnership: Türkiye will engage stakeholders across the value chain via targeted activities including on-site waste management assessments, training and capacity building through a Train-the-Trainer model, recycling pitch sessions and matchmaking events, as well as roundtables and policy dialogues with key national actors. In doing so, the partnership aims to support Turkey in futureproofing its textile ecosystem, unlock economic value from waste, and contribute to a just, circular transition in one of the industry’s most influential sourcing regions.

ITA Master's student Janne Warnecke investigated tension differences over the fabric width in the weaving process and thereby contributed to quality assurance; ITA Bachelor's student Jasmin Roos found a basis for the development of recyclable yarns and textiles. For these developments, they were awarded the Walter Reiners Foundation's Promotion and Sustainability Prizes on 27 November. Peter D. Dornier, Chairman of the Walter Reiners Foundation, presented the awards at the Aachen-Dresden-Denkendorf International Textile Conference (ADD-ITC) in Aachen, Germany.

Thermoplastic elastomers as a recyclable alternative to elastane
The increasing importance of a circular economy for conserving resources and minimising negative environmental impacts requires innovative recycling concepts for textiles. The increasing use of elastane poses a particular challenge in textile recycling. Even small amounts of elastane cause difficulties in established recycling technologies such as thermomechanical recycling, for example by clogging filter media or decomposing into potentially toxic degradation products.

Jasmin Roos won the Sustainability Award for her bachelor's thesis on the topic: ‘Potential of thermoplastic elastomers for thermomechanical textile recycling as an alternative to elastane: Experimental evaluation of PET/TPC blends’ with prize money of €3,000.

In her thesis, Jasmin Roos, supervised by ITA scientist Ricarda Wissel, took an in-depth look at the development of sustainable solutions for recycling elastic textiles. The innovative approach aims to replace conventional, non-recyclable elastane with melt-spun yarns made from thermoplastic copolyester elastomers (TPC). This can not only improve recyclability, but also contribute to reducing environmental impact, as harmful solvents can be dispensed with in yarn production.

The main objective of her work was to evaluate the suitability of blends of TPC and polyethylene terephthalate (PET) for joint thermomechanical recycling. Blend and melt spinning tests were carried out on a laboratory and pilot scale at the ITA facilities. Jasmin Roos succeeded in producing blends of different proportions of PET and TPC, based on typical elastane proportions in textiles, and successfully processing them into yarns on a melt spinning line – a crucial aspect for closed-loop recycling. The results of her bachelor's thesis thus form a promising basis for the development of recyclable elastic yarns and textiles.

In line with the commitment signed on November 6, 2025, CARBIOS and Wankai New Materials, a listed subsidiary of Zhink Group, the 3rd largest PET producer in China and 4th worldwide, announce the signing of the definitive agreement establishing a strategic partnership for the large-scale deployment of CARBIOS’s PET biorecycling technology in Asia, with the first step being the construction of a PET biorecycling plant in China.
 
The two companies have signed on 2 December 2025 the shareholders’ agreement for their joint venture, dedicated to the construction and operation of a first PET biorecycling plant in China, with a processing capacity of 50,000 tons of PET waste.
 
Wankai will be the majority shareholder of this company with a 70% stake, while CARBIOS will hold the remaining 30%. The financing of the plant’s construction, estimated at €115 million, will be covered 30% by equity and 70% by debt, with all debt guaranteed by Wankai.
 
The plant will be located in Haining (Zhejiang province) on site provided by Wankai, which is already equipped with infrastructure (equipment, waste treatment, etc.), thus reducing the investment cost. Construction is expected to begin during the first quarter of 2026, with commissioning targeted by the first quarter of 2027.
 
CARBIOS and Wankai have also approved on 2 December 2025 the license agreement, which will be granted by CARBIOS to the joint venture upon its incorporation.
 
CARBIOS and Wankai have committed to a long-term partnership with the ambition to build and operate several PET biorecycling plants in Asia. CARBIOS agrees to exclusively license its PET depolymerization technology in Asia to Wankai for a period of three years, subject to signing licenses with the latter for at least 100 kt per year of additional capacity. This term will be extended in five-year increments if additional licenses for at least 200 kt per year of extra capacity are signed.
 
To strengthen the strategic partnership between the two companies, Wankai has committed to subscribe, before 2 June 2026, to a dedicated capital increase of €5 million in the share capital of CARBIOS S.A., paid on the basis of an issue price per share of €8.0947, corresponding to the volume-weighted average of the last five trading days preceding the 1st of December 2025, reduced by a 10% discount. 

The European Chemicals Agency’s (ECHA) Biocidal Products Committee (BPC) concluded its discussions on November, 26 on the approval of ethanol as an active substance in disinfectants without adopting an opinion. The Committee will resume its work in February 2026 and aims to adopt the opinion later that year.

The BPC discussed the approval of ethanol for use in hand and general disinfectants but was unable to adopt an opinion on its potential hazards and alternatives.

Due to the lack of consensus, the Committee further postponed the opinion making. The final opinion is not expected before May 2026, after which the European Commission will take the decision.

Background
Under the Biocidal Products Regulation, all active substances used in biocidal products must be approved before those products can be authorised. The BPC provides science-based opinions on these substances to evaluate their safety and effectiveness.

Deren and Dibella are joining forces and have agreed to a partnership for the French market. Through this strategic collaboration, both companies combine their strengths: Dibella’s expertise in high-quality, durable, and sustainably produced textiles, and Deren’s market knowledge and trusted customer relationships across France. 

Together, Deren and Dibella will offer French customers a comprehensive portfolio of long-lasting, responsibly manufactured textiles alongside excellent service. The alliance cooperation represents an important step in Dibella’s international growth strategy, and reinforces the shared commitment both companies have to providing professionals with sustainable textile solutions that stand for quality, reliability, and responsible business practices. 

Deren and Dibella look forward to a successful collaboration and to jointly shaping a more sustainable future for the French market.

CARBIOS announced the signing of two new multi-year commercial agreements with major players in beverage industry, for the supply of recycled PET (r-PET).

The signing of these two new commercial agreements marks CARBIOS’s entry into a new strategic sector: beverages. Thgey are part of the pre-commercialization process for CARBIOS’s future industrial site, bringing the current level of pre-sales to approximately 50% of the site’s maximum production capacity.

Negotiations are ongoing with other partners to reach a pre-commercialization level of 70% of the Longlaville site’s maximum capacity, a threshold constituting one of the conditions for obtaining additional non-dilutive funding necessary to resume construction of the Longlaville plant.

A regional grant of €12.5 million has also been signed, bringing the total amount of public funding already secured to €42.5 million.

The European Chemicals Agency (ECHA), to protect health and the environment, recommends that the European Commission adds four substances, including melamine, to the REACH Authorisation List. Once added to the list, companies must apply for authorisation if they wish to continue using the substances.

The recommendation includes the following substances:

• Barium diboron tetraoxide;
• S-(tricyclo[5.2.1.0 2,6]deca-3-en-8(or 9)-yl) O-(isopropyl or isobutyl or 2-ethylhexyl) O-(isopropyl or isobutyl or 2-ethylhexyl) phosphorodithioate;
• Diphenyl(2,4,6-trimethylbenzoyl)phosphine oxide; and
• Melamine.

ECHA has selected these substances from the Candidate List of substances of very high concern (SVHC) for this recommendation because, following the agreed approach, they are of the highest priority. 

The inclusion of melamine in the draft recommendation was comprehensively commented on by sectors using the substance during the 2024 consultation period but the decision to include it was made after careful consideration of all the issues.

Ofelia Bercaru, Director for Prioritisation and Integration, said: 
“When assessing the consequences of including a substance in the Authorisation List, it is important to consider the scope of the legal requirement. In most of its applications, melamine appears to be used as an intermediate, which does not require authorisation under REACH.
“However, applications for authorisation for the remaining uses may potentially create a significant workload for companies and authorities. ECHA is aware of the challenges and considered that balancing the risks posed by melamine with its continued use, requires a policy decision by the Commission and EU Member States.”

Background
ECHA has the legal obligation to regularly recommend substances from the Candidate List for the Commission to include in the Authorisation List. Before sending its recommendation to the Commission , ECHA considers comments received during a three-month consultation and the opinion of the Member State Committee.

The Commission will decide which substances are included in the Authorisation List and what conditions apply to each substance. If a substance is included in the Authorisation List, it can only be placed on the EEA market or used after a given date, if an authorisation is granted for a specific use.

The authorisation process aims to enhance the substitution of substances of very high concern when technically and economically viable alternatives are available. Until this is achieved, the goal is to ensure proper control of risks for human health and the environment.

Source Fashion, a leading European fashion sourcing show, returns from 13th–15th January 2026 to Olympia London with a forward-thinking content programme designed to equip the industry for a smarter, more sustainable future. Bringing together global brands, visionaries, and change-makers, the three-day agenda will explore the intersection of innovation, ethics, and commercial viability, challenging the sector to rethink how fashion is designed, made, and brought to market in the year ahead. From AI-powered production and circular business models to human rights accountability and the rise of resale, Source Fashion continues to lead the conversation on building a fashion industry that is not only fit for the future but poised to thrive in it.

Key voices and headline sessions shaping the future of fashion
Kicking off the content programme on Tuesday 13th January is a powerful panel exploring ‘Addressing the S in ESG - Human Rights, Living Wages and Supply Chain Accountability.’ Moderated by Jasmine Chua, Sourcing & Labour Editor at Sourcing Journal, the session brings together senior leaders from fashion brands and industry NGOs to unpack meaningful social responsibility in fashion beyond the buzzwords.

Next, the spotlight turns to ‘Ambition Without Action – Can Doing Good Really Drive Profitability?’ This provocative debate invites the audience to actively discuss the persistent gap between purpose and profit, exploring why, despite growing consumer pressure and boardroom rhetoric, impact-driven business models haven’t become business-as-usual. Chaired by Mark Sumner, Textile Programme Lead at WRAP, it will challenge attendees to consider, and debate, what’s really holding the industry back and invites the audience to discuss the persistent gap between purpose and profit.

One of the week’s most anticipated fireside chats follows, featuring sustainability pioneer Kresse Wesling CBE, Founder of Elvis & Kresse. In ‘Finding the Beauty in Waste’, Wesling will share her journey transforming discarded materials into luxury products, and why radical transparency, circular systems, and creative reinvention are not only possible, but profitable.

On Wednesday, Marguerite LeRolland, Senior Global Insight Manager at Euromonitor International, delivers a data-rich keynote on ‘Outlook to 2030 – what commodity shifts mean for the future of fashion.’ As fluctuating materials prices continue to impact margins and sustainability strategies, this session provides buyers with essential insights to navigate risk and seize opportunity in 2026’s complex sourcing landscape.

With demand for locally made, traceable and lower-impact products gaining momentum, the revival of British manufacturing is back in the spotlight. In the timely debate, ‘How Do We Build Back British Manufacturing?’ Suzanne Ellingham, Event Director at Source Fashion, joins Jenny Holloway, Chair of the Association of Textiles, Manufacturing and Fashion (ATMF) and CEO of Fashion-Enter Ltd, will unpack what it will take to restore the UK’s production footprint. From skills and investment to political will and scalable infrastructure, the discussion will explore whether British fashion manufacturing can move from niche comeback to commercial reality.

The circular economy has long been heralded as the future of fashion, but for many retailers, it remains more vision than viable business model. The panel discussion, ‘From Concept to Commerciality - Making Circularity Work’, moderated by Jasmin Malik Chua, Climate and Labour Editor at Sourcing Journal, brings together leading voices from the Ellen MacArthur Foundation, VYN Shoes, N Brown, and VivoBarefoot to explore how circularity can finally move from pilot projects to scale. Together, they’ll unpack the partnerships, tools, and business models needed to turn sustainability into commercial success.

On Thursday 15th January, Source Fashion continues with a future-focused programme that explores where retail, design, and sustainability are heading next. Kicking off the day, Jack Stratten, Head of Trends at Insider Trends, delivers a compelling presentation on how second-hand has shifted firmly into the mainstream in ‘Resale Gets Relevant: How Second-Hand Moved into the Mainstream’. From consumer behaviour to new commercial models, this session uncovers why resale is now a serious strategic consideration for the world’s biggest retailers. Finally, the day concludes with an inspiring fireside chat, ‘From Catwalk to Collection - CEO of Redress on Waste-Free Design’, where Christina Dean shares how brands can collaborate with designers to turn waste into a resource and embed circular creativity from concept to collection.

From AI-enabled production and sustainable design to circularity and retail reinvention, the full Source Fashion agenda has been carefully curated to give future-focused professionals the insight, inspiration, and practical tools needed to lead with purpose.

Eton Systems – a member of TMAS, the Swedish Textile Machinery Association – is taking part in the current Microfactories System Innovation project which is working on the development of a fully automated workflow for second hand garments.

Eton is contributing its well-proven transport system for material handling to the project, which also involves specialists at the Swedish School of Textiles in Borås, the Automation Region innovation cluster at Mälardalen University and the national collaboration platform iHubs Sweden.

High volumes
According to ThredUp’s 2025 Resale Report, the value of the global second-hand apparel market is already worth an annual $256 billion this year and growing at 10% annually to reach a value of $367 billion by 2029.

Additionally, the online resale segment alone is forecast to double over the next five years to around $40, billion reflecting higher growth of 17%.

“The volumes are now so large that handling must be automated for it to work,” says Jan Molin, CEO of Eton Systems. “The new EU regulations requiring separate collection of textiles are having an impact, but we are also seeing an increasingly positive attitude towards reuse and greater awareness of the textile industry’s environmental impact.”

AI categorisation
As part of the project, a test facility is being established at Science Park Borås involving garments being placed on custom product carriers within an Eton Systems conveyor system and transported through a series of stations. 

The garments are inspected using a vision system, after which AI is employed to categorise them based on parameters such as manufacturer, model and size. Any damage is analysed and the system also provides recommendations for possible repairs.

“The collected information is fed into a calculation model that, based on market data, makes suggestions for a sales price,” Molin explains. “Finally, the garment is photographed for marketing and then transported to a warehouse awaiting sale.”

Historic automation 
Eton’s material handling system was developed as early as the 1960s for the company’s own shirt production in Gånghester outside Borås. At the time, material handling was estimated to account for up to 80% of the manufacturing time. 

The company’s Unit Production System (UPS) was developed as an automated ceiling-mounted conveyor system that moved the shirts one by one through the various work steps, the company was able to move from mass production to one-off production.

“It provided many benefits, including shorter lead times, greatly reduced material handling time and better ergonomics for operators,” says Molin. “Quality defect costs were also reduced because defects could be detected on individual products instead of at the batch level.”

The UPS concept was very successful and in 1967 was spun off into the stand-alone automation company Eton Systems, which now runs its operations in a modern production facility in Nordskogen in Borås. Its customers are global with an emphasis on clothing production, home textiles and furniture manufacturing, but the system is also used in, for example, the transport and handling of plastic parts for the automotive industry.

Opportunities for Swedish industry
The textile industry has a major environmental impact, not least through extensive overproduction. Clothing companies often order large volumes from the manufacturers and what does not sell is sold out or destroyed. 

The Microfactories System Innovation project builds on previous projects that have mainly focused on developing small-scale, local and needs-based production. Now the focus is on the growing market for reuse.

“We see enormous potential in second hand,” says Molin. “It is an area that is growing rapidly and where there is room for innovation and new business models. There is also the opportunity to move technology from other industries.”

Work on the project started in 2024 and will continue for four years. For Eton Systems, participation means both a chance to test new applications for its technology and to strengthen the company’s ability to innovate.

“Collaboration with universities and innovation environments helps us to be at the forefront,” says Molin. “We can participate in freer and more visionary development, without having to take on all the work ourselves. But above all, it is about contributing to a more circular industry, where materials can be used for longer and in a smarter way.”

Accelerating circular systems
“It’s very encouraging to note this growing willingness by many consumers to embrace the second-hand market as an important component of the drive towards accelerating circular systems,” adds TMAS General Secretary Therese Premler-Andersson. “Automation and digitalization as developed by Swedish companies like Eton are increasingly innovating ways in which this market – and more generally textile manufacturing and retailing – can be sustained and made ever more efficient in the general fight against textile waste.”

The Microfactories System Innovation project is funded by the European Regional Development Fund, the Swedish Agency for Economic and Regional Growth, Region Västra Götaland and Region Västmanland.