From the Sector

• GOTS Version 7.0 released
• GOTS certified entities grow by 8% and expand to 89 countries
• GOTS releases Due Diligence Handbook for certified entities
• Farm-Gin Registry implemented in India, creating a direct link and better evaluation of incoming data
• GOTS collaborates with European Space Agency and Marple for AI organic cotton project
• #Behindtheseams campaign reaches 21 million+ unique individuals

The Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS), managed by non-profit Global Standard, recognises 2023 as a year of significant milestones. From expansion of GOTS-certified facilities to the release of a new standard version, GOTS remained a beacon for businesses navigating changing legislation, social and environmental demands.

Coming out of one of the strongest years for GOTS, 2023 culminated with 25 GOTS-approved certification bodies reporting a noteworthy 14,676 certified facilities (an 8% growth from 2022) in 89 countries.

Ushering in GOTS Version 7.0
As of 1 March, facilities that become GOTS-certified will operate under the new GOTS Version 7.0, released in March 2023 with a one-year transition period. GOTS Version 7.0 and its accompanying Implementation Manual provides a comprehensive solution for companies who want to produce organic textiles and be supported to ensure compliance with environmental and human rights due diligence along the entire value chain, from field to finished product.

GOTS Version 7.0 also introduced a six-step due diligence process and handbook that equips GOTS-certified operations to proactively identify, assess and mitigate adverse impacts throughout their value chains.

Looking to the future
GOTS initiated in 2023 two major projects in India, the globe’s largest producer of organic cotton. The Farm-Gin Registry was introduced for the 2022-2023 harvest season, which acts as a link between farm and gin and is a tool to strengthen integrity by collecting organic raw seed cotton data producing farm or farm group.

GOTS, the European Space Agency (ESA) and software company Marple launched a new project that aims to show the potential for remote satellite monitoring of organic cotton cultivation systems. The project trained artificial intelligence (AI) to use ESA satellite data to detect cotton fields across India and automatically classify them according to their cultivation standard. By integrating standardised yield metrics, this innovative approach will enable GOTS to generate realistic estimates of organic cotton yields in specific areas. In addition, the project is expected to empower GOTS to recognise cotton fields that have not yet obtained organic certification but possess the potential for a transition to organic cultivation. The first results of the project will be announced in June.

Educating the consumer
GOTS, in its ongoing commitment to stakeholder education, orchestrated in November an immersive 360-degree awareness and educational campaign. Successfully engaging both consumers and industry professionals, the initiative shined a spotlight on GOTS-certified companies and their products, which empowered consumers to make more conscientious choices while shopping. With an impressive turnout of over 250 certified entities, the campaign made a significant global impact, reaching more than 21 million unique individuals worldwide.

Global apparel retailer UNIQLO announces that it has signed a partnership agreement with the Singapore National Paralympic Council (SNPC) where UNIQLO becomes the Official Clothing Partner for the Singapore Paralympics team. Under the partnership, UNIQLO will provide LifeWear apparel to Singapore's delegations and officials at the coming major summer sports tournament in France. This comprises apparel to be worn for the opening and closing ceremonies, athlete village, and travel during the Games.

This is the first time that UNIQLO is providing apparel for a national team in Southeast Asia. The Singapore team clothing for the 2024 Summer games will largely comprise LifeWear items available at UNIQLO stores.

UNIQLO worked closely with SNPC to thoughtfully curate a selection of LifeWear apparel that emphasises function and comfort, while featuring modern looks that represent Singapore and blend seamlessly with the cityscape of Paris.

A red accent is applied to the accessories and lining as a tribute to the Singapore national colours. Touches of Singapore icons such as the orchid and the Singapore Lion Head symbol are reflected in the women's scarf and men's tie alongside a colour application of red, white and blue to represent Singapore and France.

UNIQLO'S commitment to diversity and inclusion
As part of the partnership, UNIQLO will also undertake community contribution activities with the council and athletes.

UNIQLO will be taking part in the inaugural Singapore Paralympic Fiesta to support Singapore's Para Athletes. Held at Our Tampines Hub from 4 - 7 May 2024, a UNIQLO Singapore team of over 100 staff and family will be participating in the Walkathon.

In line with UNIQLO's Next Generation Development Program, an initiative to inspire children and youth to discover a love of sport, UNIQLO will also join SNPC on their schools outreach efforts to raise awareness on Diversity and Inclusion and disability inclusion with programmes such as UNIQLO Access.

Zum Welttag für Sicherheit und Gesundheit am Arbeitsplatz am 28. April 2024 betonen die internationale Leitmesse A+A und die Bundesarbeitsgemeinschaft für Arbeitsschutz und Arbeitsmedizin (Basi) ihr Engagement im Hinblick auf die Weiterentwicklung des globalen Arbeits- und Gesundheitsschutzes. Mit dem Hashtag #WelttagfürSicherheitundGesundheit rufen die Messe und ihr Partner dazu auf, sich zur Zukunft des Arbeitsschutzes auf den sozialen Netzwerken auszutauschen. Es geht darum, Lösungen für die umfassenden Aufgaben in einer Arbeitswelt zu finden, die sich rasant wandelt.

Innovative Ansätze in einer sich wandelnden Arbeitswelt
Die fortschreitende Digitalisierung, der Klimawandel und die Entwicklungen der Arbeit 4.0 konfrontieren Unternehmen und ihre Beschäftigen mit neuen und komplexen Herausforderungen – darunter psychische Belastungen, beispielsweise durch Überforderung, verstärkte Flexibilität und Disruption (neue oder stark veränderte Geschäftsmodelle). Neben bekannten Gefahrstoffen wie Asbest entstehen als Folge neuer Produkte Gefahrstoffe, von denen häufig noch nicht bekannt ist, ob und wie sehr sie die Gesundheit der Beschäftigten beeinträchtigen können.

„Wir haben aktuelle Themen, Entwicklungen und Trends im Arbeitsschutz im Blick beim A+A Kongress, der zentralen deutschen Gemeinschaftsveranstaltung für Sicherheit und Gesundheit bei der Arbeit mit internationaler Ausstrahlung. Darüber hinaus laden wir regelmäßig zu Diskussionen über ausgewählte Themen ein. Anlässlich des Welttages 2024 befasst sich die erfolgreiche Online-Veranstaltung ,Die Basi im Dialog‘ am 25. April ab 15.30 Uhr mit den Vorteilen, die sich aus Normungsverfahren für den Arbeitsschutz ergeben“, erklärt Dr. Christian Felten, Geschäftsführer der Basi.

„Die A+A dient als zentrale Plattform für den Austausch und die Entwicklung von Maßnahmen, die Arbeitsplätze sicherer und gesünder gestalten", erklärt Lars Wismer, Direktor der A+A. „Am Welttag für Arbeitsschutz und Arbeitssicherheit arbeiten die A+A und die Basi gemeinsam daran, durch gezielte Kommunikation- und Aufklärungsaktionen das globale Bewusstsein für die Umsetzung von Sicherheitsstandards zu stärken.“

Stärkung des Arbeitsschutzes durch globalen Vernetzung
Globale Vernetzung stärkt den Arbeitsschutz, indem sie den Austausch zu bewährten Praktiken und innovativen Lösungsansätzen über Ländergrenzen hinweg ermöglicht. Die Messe Düsseldorf unterstützt diesen Ansatz mit ihrem internationalen Messeportfolio Occupational Safety & Health, zu dem die CIOSH in Shanghai, die OSHA in Singapur und die TOS+H Expo 2024 in der Türkei gehören. Die Basi kooperiert im Sinne der Sache mit der Europäischen Agentur für Sicherheit und Gesundheitsschutz am Arbeitsplatz (EU-OSHA), der Internationalen Vereinigung für Soziale Sicherheit (IVSS) und der ORP Foundation (Occupational Risk Prevention, Vorbeugung von Risiken am Arbeitsplatz).

Gemeinsam mit dem Spitzenkoch und Visionär Heiko Antoniewicz hat Weitblick eine Kollektion hochwertiger Kochkleidung entwickelt. Zusammen mit dem Küchenprofi wurden Kleidungsstücke für die Branche kreiert, die höchste Haltbarkeit, langlebige Qualität und beste Waschbarkeit aufweisen.

Die Kollektion ist angelegt auf acht Teile, darunter drei Kochhemden und drei Kochblusen, erhältlich in den arbnuancen Nachtblau, Schilfgrün und Weiß. Zusätzlich gibt es eine Komforthose mit moderner Schnittführung und angenehmen Tragegefühl, erhältlich in Nachtblau und Schilfgrün. Alle Artikel sind kombinierbar, universell einsetzbar und in einem breiten Größenspektrum erhältlich.

Die Kleidungsstücke haben eine Materialzusammensetzung aus 47% PES, 47% CO und 6% EOL. Diese wird nicht nur partiell bei Gewebe-Einsätzen verwendet, sondern kommt Allover zum Einsatz. Das macht die Kollektion elastisch und komfortabel beim Tragen Durch die Mischung aus Baumwolle und Polyester können die Vorteile beider Materialien genutzt werden: Baumwolle hat eine fantastische Haptik und zieht die Feuchtigkeit ein. Polyester transportiert die Feuchtigkeit ab.

Unter den Armen eingearbeitete Bewegungskeile verhindern das Rutschen der Kochhemden- und blusen über den Bauch, werden die Arme gehoben. Eine eingearbeitete Nackenschlaufe kann eine Latzschürze halten. Eine verdeckte Knopfleiste und eine Leistentasche am linken Ärmel sind ebenfalls eingearbeitet.

Archroma has introduced a new bio-based durable water repellent (DWR) finish that helps mills and brands produce apparel that is soft to the touch and yet offers robust rain and stain protection and an improved sustainability profile.

PHOBOTEX® NTR-50 LIQ is designed to provide great water repellence on all kinds of fibers while achieving a soft handle and avoiding undesired effects like yellowing and chalk marking. It performs especially well on synthetic fibers and their blends, making it ideal for apparel, outdoor wear and home textiles.

The new DWR is based on 50% renewable carbon content based on ASTM D6866 and is free of per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances (PFAS) and formaldehyde. It is also crosslinker-free, which makes it more flexible in use. While offering good wash durability on its own, PHOBOTEX® NTR-50 LIQ can be combined with a crosslinker like ARKOPHOB® NTR-40, which has a biocarbon content of 40%, to further boost wash and/or dry-cleaning resistance.

Sportswear, fashion and home textiles treated with the PHOBOTEX® NTR-50 LIQ durable water repellent qualify for the High IQ® Repel assurance program. The High IQ® program assures consumers that these products deliver performance, protection and comfort and meet strict environmental standards.

Smart textiles have the potential to revolutionise healthcare. In his doctoral thesis in textile technology at the University of Borås, Emanuel Gunnarsson presents unique solutions to the bottleneck that has long inhibited the market.

With an ageing population, increasing demands are being placed on healthcare and smart textiles can offer a solution where only imagination sets limits. “The long-term goal of most smart textiles is for them to be so easy to use that the user doesn't think of them as anything more than regular garments. No special procedure should be needed to use them. If we succeed in that, we won't burden healthcare by having healthcare personnel administer vital parameter monitoring such as blood pressure and pulse, as the user can handle it themselves,” said Emanuel Gunnarsson.

In his work, he has investigated how a t-shirt for measuring heart rhythm and movement patterns, and garments for electrostimulation, can be produced in a single step. This involves the connection between the contact surfaces (electrodes), the insulated conductive paths between the electrode and the contact point, and the electrical measuring equipment required.

“This, as far as we know, has never been described before. We are completely convinced that this is the solution to a significant bottleneck when it comes to getting the smart textile market going in earnest,” said Emanuel Gunnarsson.

His work has resulted in two different simple ways to produce smart textiles. He demonstrates that sensors can be integrated using standard textile manufacturing methods. The research also includes criticism of some of the methods used to measure the functionality of smart textiles, and advice on how to do it better instead.

“The next natural step will be to see how these garments cope with one of the toughest challenges a garment faces, namely washing. Especially as these garments must be worn closest to the skin, they will need to be washed relatively often,” said Emanuel Gunnarsson.

Studies from other universities indicate that the yarns used to measure signals from the body do not withstand many washes, but after a small pilot study, Emanuel Gunnarsson is hopeful of the opposite.

Eastman, a specialty materials company and producer of Naia™ cellulosic fibers, has formed a collaboration with Debrand, a logistics company specializing in finding sustainable solutions to apparel waste.

Teaming up with Debrand for collection of the waste, Eastman is using its molecular recycling technology to recycle 5,000 pounds of pre- and post-consumer apparel waste. The process breaks down apparel waste to its molecular building blocks and uses the certified recycled material to create Naia™ Renew fibers — circular fibers made from 60% sustainably sourced wood pulp and 40% recycled waste material via Global Recycled Standard-certified mass balance.

Eastman and Debrand are showcasing the transformative potential of molecular recycling technology to address the textile waste crisis. By providing more circular solutions for apparel waste, this partnership sets a new standard for sustainable practices in the fashion industry. Prior to its collaboration with Eastman, Debrand secured a strategic investment from Waste Management, a provider of comprehensive waste management in North America, to deliver circular solutions across the U.S. and Canada.

Eastman continues to partner with strategic brands and organizations to drive innovation and enhance the infrastructure for a circular economy in the textiles industry. Recently, Eastman teamed up with Patagonia to recycle 8,000 pounds of its unusable apparel.

adidas unveils the team kits that will be worn at the upcoming Paris 2024 Olympic and Paralympic Games. With one central design story, all adidas teams and athletes are united under a design DNA that celebrates the unique identities of each nation.

All athletes share a passion for their sport, but this internal fire burns brightest around major international tournaments. In Paris, adidas will capture the flame that burns within every athlete through impactful fonts and detailed graphics – that feature across all apparel created for its 15 officially sponsored teams. To express the fire within athletes, the kits’ graphics, typeface, and all over print use a repeated line pattern which is brought to life through pops of color

Beyond team kits, adidas’ offering extends to the 2024 athlete pack – a 49-strong footwear collection which equips athletes across 41 different disciplines – more than 20 of which may be seen during the field of play this summer.

Devan Chemicals launched its latest textile finishing technology “Devan Stain Release”, that ensures that both water and oil based stains can easily be washed off.

Devan ‘s new release finish prevents water and oil based stains such as ketchup, mud, grass, tea, vegetable and corn oils from adhering deeply to the fibres and allows stains to be washed off easily from the surface. The technology combines both stain release and wicking properties, fitting for applications where this dual benefit is required. This technology is PFC-free and has 40% of bio-based content. Unlike many PFC-based solutions that require mixing of multiple products, Devan Stain Release is an easy to apply and ready-to-use product that doesn’t necessitate mixing of different products. The finish doesn’t require reactivation after washing at home with high temperature. Soft handle is maintained.

Devan Stain Release is applicable across a wide range of textile applications, including school uniforms, garments, workwear, apparel, home textiles, bedding accessories and mattress ticking. The technology enhances the longevity of fabrics by reducing the need for frequent washing, ultimately contributing to a more sustainable consumption cycle.

For the second chapter of their Spring/Summer 2024 collection, adidas and Yohji Yamamoto continue to explore the concept of Contra-Natural. The collection highlights the tensions at the heart of Y-3: sport and boundary pushing design, organic and synthetic, linear perfection and natural imperfection.

For Chapter 2, Y-3 introduces a selection of dynamic apparel looks with a focus on refined cotton twill workwear inspired garments and reimagined sporting classics. Subtle yet bold overshirts, cargo pants, and tops are constructed with utility pockets and adjustable hems, while updated takes on the iconic adidas Superstar Tracksuit are elevated with topographical map piping. A selection of garments inspired adidas’ Teamgeist soccer jerseys rounds out the apparel collection, with each piece bearing a digital rust print inspired by the natural process of oxidation. Accompanying the apparel offering is a suite of accessories including nylon backpacks, totes, and holdalls.

From apparel to footwear, the second seasonal chapter plays host to an expressive selection of silhouettes as adidas performance Running technology is recontextualized through the lens of Y-3. Moving boldly into tomorrow, Yohji Yamamoto’s take on adidas’ pinnacle running silhouette takes the form of the Y-3 PRIME X 2 STRUNG, while the Y-3 ADIOS PRO 3.0 arrives in three colorways.

From the past, reborn, to the future, the Y-3 Spring/Summer 2024 Chapter 2 collection is then punctuated by the Y-3 WATER SLIDE, the Y-3 SANDAL, and an update to the instantly recognizable Y-3 ITOGO which sees the silhouette’s straps swapped out for an engineered print.