From the Sector

For Schoeller Summer 2020 everything flows smoothly. The fabrics move with a fluid lightness in a closed ecological cycle. Upcycled products with ECONYL® yarn and the PFC-free ecorepel® Bio technology based on renewable raw materials are two ecological highlights of the 2020 Summer Collection, which is being developed and produced in the heart of the Swiss mountains. Color effects turn the functional textiles into exciting multicolors with contrasting reverses and fresh, modern plain colors that can easily be combined.

REGENERATED ECONYL® YARN
The textiles manufactured by Schoeller using ECONYL® yarn made from regenerated material are genuine upcycled products. The ECONYL® Reclaiming Program of Aquafil S.P.A. reduces global waste by collecting recyclable materials from landfill sites and the world’s oceans and returning them into the production cycle. The resulting yarn is no different from conventional textiles in terms of quality and appearance. The Schoeller fabric family with ECONYL® yarn encompasses a complete package with diverse exciting qualities such as ultra-light, bi-elastic schoeller®-dynamic (e.g. for windbreaker blousons), very soft, fine schoeller®-dryskin (e.g. for high-tech shorts) and lightweight schoeller®-WB-400.

ECO-CREATED
New, supersoft soft-shells with ECONYL® yarn are available with different backings and weights depending on the situation. The lightest schoeller®-WB-400 radiates a sense of summer in fresh tones such as melon, oxygen blue or khaki with a smooth jersey reverse in contrasting colors, also made from ECONYL® yarn. A slightly heavier quality surprises in classic black with an elegant, navy blue reverse, while the Bordeaux nuance of the soft-shell with its brushed reverse in stone grey feels warm, soft and cozy. The fluorocarbon-free ecorepel® bio-technology, based on renewable raw materials, offers sustainable water repellence.

WHITE MATTER
The dominant features of summer 2020, alongside sustainable textiles and technologies made from natural materials, are inspired multicolors. The comfortable, multicolored schoeller®-WB-400 qualities produce completely new color effects and create a cheerful look – both for outdoor activities and in urban sportswear. The combination of melon, ocean green and stone grey with white changes the mood of the original colors and lends the textiles an unexpectedly chalky, summery look. Another striking feature is the lightweight, white jersey backing, which is only revealed at second glance.

AUGMENTED ORIGINALS
The presentation of the authentic schoeller®-dynamic qualities is no less lively, ranging from mossy green tones and blue nuances through to the brown variations of tree bark. The multicolors combine perfectly with plain fabrics and are impressively functional thanks to the PFC-free ecorepel® bio-technology, which also provides reliable water repellence. The basic qualities of the lightweight schoeller®-dryskin trousers and jackets are given a touch of elegance in the form of a discreet sheen and fashionable colors. In soft blues and greens, these supple all-rounders are highly wear resistant and offer ideal moisture management through the microfibers on the inside. They also feature ecorepel® bio-technology for water repellence.

• “Fashion Goes Digital” takes the Lead in Fashion Technology
• Customers get Industry 4.0-ready as Lectra unveiled latest product offerings and shared insights at annual fashion VIP event

Lectra, the technological partner for companies using fabrics and leather, put theory into practice at its recent fashion event by unveiling their latest 4.0 Cutting Room to more than 100 privileged industry professionals.

“Fashion Goes Digital” drew industry stakeholders and market experts from 20 countries, who gathered at Lectra’s International Advanced Technology Center (IATC) in Bordeaux-Cestas, France, to examine the real-life application of digitalization in fashion.

While the topic of digitalization served as a backdrop for the event, there was a recurring theme at the forefront: fashion companies need Industry 4.0 technology and support in order to be more precise in meeting the evolving needs of their digitally savvy consumers.
Nick Chiarelli, Client Partner of Foresight Factory, shed light on new business opportunities for fashion, Nora Kühner, founder of Nora Kühner Fashion Design Consulting, used her designer perspective to decode the digital future of product development, and Fabrizio Fantini, founder of Evo Pricing, showed participants how machine learning could help fashion companies predict consumer demand and avoid waste.

“While speaking about the future challenges and trends in fashion and luxury, the trend now is to use analytics to drive the entire production process,” highlighted Stephen Taylor, Principal Director of Kurt Salmon.

Waruna Tennakoon, General Manager of Group Cutting, Brandix, and Ajith Perera General Manager of Mathliya Plant, MAS Kreeda, also shared their Lectra customer experience. Based in Sri Lanka, both companies have established themselves as the country’s largest apparel exporters, with Brandix specializing in producing intimate and activewear, and MAS Kreeda in sportswear.

“Thanks to the digital revolution, consumers are now more specific in their demands. This will cause a shift in mass manufacturing where there will be smaller-volume orders coming in at a faster rate. As a result, manufacturing models have to be more agile in the immediate future,” explained Ajith Perera, “I am happy to see that Lectra is already spearheading this change by providing us with the necessary technology to help us meet market demand.”

There was no better time to put digitalization into context than during “Fashion Goes Digital”.
VIP guests got a sneak preview of the brand new, fully automated cutting room solution for fashion and apparel. Lectra’s Cutting Room 4.0 is an embodiment of Lectra’s commitment to empowering its customers with the best solutions to thrive in this new digital era. This avant-garde technology leverages industry 4.0 principles to provide greater agility, throughput, cost efficiency and in particular scalability in order to respond seamlessly to small batches orders and shorter lead times.

Jean-Yves Collet, CEO of Treize Roches Couture, a high-end French womenswear manufacturer, provided a testimonial on why his company chose to be one of the first to adopt this new solution. He explained how Lectra’s latest technology would help Treize Roches speed up their artisanal production process to bring products faster to market.

“When we discussed the possibility of a made-to-order production project, we could really foresee the benefits both in terms of quality and productivity. Industry 4.0 solutions do not yet exist in garment manufacturing. This is why we have decided to develop an Industry 4.0 cutting room. This will allow us, in the preparatory stages to automate the processes as much as possible and improve quality, productivity and training time.”

“We have unveiled our strategy last year where we have identified Industry 4.0 and digitalization as our key drivers. Our goal for this event is to show that we are, indeed, living and breathing Industry 4.0 and we do have what it takes to help our customers succeed in this era. Our latest cutting room 4.0 shows that we are not just talking about the future of fashion anymore, we are living in it right now as we speak,” concluded Céline Choussy Bedouet, Chief Marketing and Communications Officer, Lectra.

• Yarn Expo Spring’s status as Asia’s leading industry event attracts 15% more buyers
• National Exhibition and Convention Center (Shanghai)
• Shanghai, China, 14 – 16 March

Yarn Expo continued its evolution into the industry’s most comprehensive and effective business platform with its Spring Edition which concluded last week with a large increase in the buyer figure, as well as another year of growth in the exhibitor number. Strong demand was evident for recent growth areas of the fair such as synthetic, fancy and specialty yarns as well as chemical fibres, while exhibitors in the more traditional cotton product group also fared well. In total, 435 exhibitors from 10 countries & regions took part (2017: 393, 12 countries & regions), attracting 25,966 trade buyers from 88 countries & regions (2017: 22,579, 94 countries & regions).

“Once again, Yarn Expo proved itself as the ideal trade fair for the industry to benefit from changing demands and product trends, especially in the Chinese and wider Asian markets,” Ms Wendy Wen, Senior General Manager of Messe Frankfurt (HK) Ltd explained. “The fair has evolved in recent editions to have a much bigger focus on synthetic, fancy & specialty yarns and chemical fibres, and based on the exhibitor feedback during the fair, there was an increase in buyers sourcing these products this year. What’s more, local buyers were showing strong interest in the offerings from Southeast Asian countries such as Indonesia and Thailand, while Vietnamese cotton exhibitors reported increased orders from China due to the favourable trade policies between these countries.”

As one of the industry’s leading players, Birla Jingwei Fibres naturally plays a big role at Yarn Expo, with their Birla Planet pavilion proving highly successful for the company. Senior Vice President Mr Sachin Malik, explained: “Yarn Expo is a very important platform for Birla, to be visible to our value chain, to connect with our customers, and our own clients’ customers. We value Yarn Expo as a long-term partner for showcasing our products and connecting with the value chain. Each edition we connect with more and more buyers, and more customers in the industry recognise the importance of this fair. It has developed into a premium event in the global textile industry calendar. Usually this edition is quieter than the autumn fair, but the results this year saw the spring edition reach the same level. Our booth was always packed with buyers, and we also received more high-quality and international buyers. Our pavilion members are also very satisfied with the buyers and their results this time.”

Exhibitor comments

Indonesia

“Yarn Expo is an ideal platform to meet not only Chinese but also global buyers. The fair attracts so many good-quality buyers, and compared to other fairs attracts more of our target buyers. The results this edition have been good. After four years of doing business in China, we’ve found many Chinese customers who are willing to pay for quality. The demand in the China market for high-quality products is growing, in particular because of the shortage of spinning capacity which is made up for by imports. We’ve seen more serious and meaningful buyers that have strong desire for further cooperation this time, and I think the potential of this market will continue to grow.” Mr Anupam Agrawal, Director Spun Yarn Business, PT. Indo-Rama Synthetics Tbk

Korea

“Our booth was so crowded throughout the fair. We had more than 300 buyers visit us, and I guess approximately 30% of them will turn into business after the fair. Our target buyers are fabric and garment manufacturers, and we found a lot of good quality ones here. A wide range of worldwide buyers from different market sectors sourced at our booth, especially big-brand sportswear manufacturers and sourcing offices. We’ve had visitors from China, Europe and many other countries. We are very satisfied with our first Yarn Expo experience, and we expect a very good outcome after the show.” Mr Joo Son, International Sales Team, HJLite

Pakistan

“Yarn Expo is the global meeting platform for all yarn industry players. You have buyers from all over the world here, so it is the best trade platform in Asia to connect with worldwide buyers. We’ve met people from Argentina, Columbia, Korea, Indonesia, the UK and the US. Around 40% of them are new to us. We’ve noticed that everyone is looking for new products nowadays, so we always bring new items. Fancy yarn is getting more common in China, and demand is growing steadily. China is definitely a huge market for us to develop.” Mr Mohammad Saad, Director of Abtex Intl Ltd

India

“Yarn Expo is really helpful in that it has a diverse buyer profile and attracts buyers from around the world. We managed to talk to customers from Pakistan, India and Colombia, as well as potential Chinese buyers who are very interested in our products. The buyers have been genuine with specific sourcing needs, and some of them have already placed orders.” Mr N. Sarawgi, Representative of Madhusudan Rayons Pvt. Ltd

Thailand

“This edition we brought our new Kapok material to the fair for the first time. It has been the most popular product at our booth. In recent editions, we’ve also met more and more garment factories asking for customised fancy yarn to make their products competitive and unique, while eco-friendly and natural yarns are also more popular. Yarn Expo is the platform we announce our new products and technologies, and the feedback from buyers from around the world can help us improve them and learn the latest market trends. The fair is of great value for our market strategy.” Mr Warakorn Bunkanokwong, Export Sales Manager, Kongkiat Textile Co Ltd

Singapore

“We are here to explore the China market, but are also glad more customers from Europe and America visited our booth. Many of the buyers here are at the decision-making level, so can give us clear requirements and advice about our products. This is a highly effective fair to meet Chinese buyers to learn first-hand what the market needs.” Mr Rahul Gupta, Marketing Manager, Texvista Intl Pte Ltd

Vietnam

“Yarn Expo is a great chance to meet our existing partners and find new buyers. Compared to China cotton yarn, we still have an advantage in price and quality which attracts a lot of buyers to our booth. Yarn Expo provides us with a quick way to tap into the Chinese and Asian markets.” Mr Du Xuan Cuu, Trade Director, Hanam Textile Co

Uzbekistan

“The Chinese market is important to us, so we chose to exhibit in Yarn Expo. We have met many buyers here, and each year we can find new customers through Yarn Expo. The international nature of this fair is also beneficial for our business.” Mr Dilshod, Export Manager, Exoeast Trade LLP

China

“Yarn Expo is the largest platform in Asia. Compared to other fairs, the buyers here are of higher quality; genuine buyers make up a large portion and most of them come with sourcing intentions. Currently, fancy yarn is in great demand in the market. The number of customers looking for such products is significantly higher this year, and Yarn Expo can effectively help us capture this demand.”
Ms Stella Gan, Sales Manager, Jin Dun Textile

Buyer comments

“We can find all ranges of cotton yarn, fancy yarn and chemical fibres at Yarn Expo. Most of the famous brands are here, and they bring the latest technologies and products, including debut products. Yarn Expo always catches the latest trends in the industry and presents them at the fair. This year the quantity and quality of fancy yarn exhibitors has increased, so I’ve found some products to source already.” Mr Wang Gaofeng, Deputy General Manager, Jiaxing Jinqie Fashion Co Ltd, China

“We mainly came to source fancy yarn this time, and we found many new options. This international show greatly expands our sourcing options. Many of our existing suppliers, including from Indonesia, exhibit at this fair so that’s why we source here. We’re satisfied with the exhibitor quality, and intend to place orders afterwards. There have been a number of new technologies presented here that left a deep impression on us.” Ms Linggar Jati Halim, Director, PT. Kartika Sinar Mulia, Indonesia

“I like this fair as it gathers exhibitors from the entire industry supply chain. As the demand for functional fabrics continues to increase, we can also see this trend in Yarn Expo. Therefore, the fair helps us to learn about the industry’s developments.” Mr Jiang Chang, Marketing Manager, Hangzhou Gaoxi Technology Co Ltd, China

The next Yarn Expo fair, the Autumn Edition, will be held at the earlier date of 27 – 29 September 2018, once again at the National Exhibition and Convention Center. 

For buyers that prioritise having the widest range of sourcing options in one place, their best bet is March’s Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Fabrics. Boasting pavilions from Japan, Korea, Pakistan and Taiwan, individual exhibitors from Hong Kong, India, Indonesia and Vietnam, not to mention 2,800-plus Chinese exhibitors, the fair is the largest gathering of Asian suppliers under one roof for the spring / summer sourcing season. To ensure convenience for buyers, international exhibitors are grouped by country or region, while Chinese exhibitors are located in product halls including fabrics for casualwear, functional wear / sportswear, ladieswear, lingerie & swimwear, shirting and suiting, as well as for accessories and denim.

In total, around 3,300 exhibitors will showcase their apparel fabrics and accessories at the fair, with the SalonEurope zone hosting premium suppliers from Europe – including pavilions and zones from France, Germany, Italy and Turkey – while the International Hall also houses other overseas exhibitors from the likes of Argentina, Australia, Peru the US and elsewhere.

Japan Pavilion keeps ‘Banshu-Ori’ tradition alive
Organised by the Japan Fashion Week Organization (JFW), the Japan Pavilion will house 22 exhibitors and also feature a Japan Trend Corner. After the immense popularity of this pavilion with buyers in previous editions, the organisers are in a good position to comment on the trends in the local market. “The now mature Chinese market tends to seek out very different types of products and purchase in smaller batches, which is a world away from the mass-production focus of the past,” JFW commented.

Included in this edition’s Japan Pavilion are three companies from the Nishiwaki region, which is famous for its ‘Banshu-Ori’, or Banshu weave. Banshu-Ori is a yarn-dyed fabric, woven into various patterns, such as checks and stripes, with yarns that are dyed before being woven by weaving machines. This tradition dates back to 1792, and will be showcased by Bon Co Ltd, Ueyama Orimono Corp and Kuwamura Co Ltd at the fair. Bon will showcase a range of new products using this traditional technique, including organic cotton fabrics, paper yarn fabrics and indigo items. Ueyama Orimono, which boasts Japan’s largest dyeing factory in Nishiwaki, designs its own fabrics in Tokyo, and will present cotton, cotton / linen and medium-thin yarn-dyed fabrics at the fair. Kuwamura will showcase fabrics based on 100% yarn-dyed cotton, as well as cotton and cotton-blend materials.

Taiwan Pavilion the place to find innovation
The Taiwan Pavilion, with over 40 participating companies, is a guaranteed source of innovation at the fair, with a number of exhibitors also offering eco-friendly options. Some of the highlights include:

• Keen Ching Industrial: they will have a number of their patented KCC-branded zippers at the fair including a durable double-coil zipper, an invisible zipper with a movable retainer box, a track type water-repellent zipper, a curved metal zipper and more.
• Handseltex Industrial: will showcase a wide range of products including lace, jacquard and mesh, made with the likes of organic cotton and recycled polyester with an eco-friendly production process.
• Paltex: the company’s ‘From Waste to Yarn’ regeneration system involves turning waste fishing nets and plastic bottles from the ocean into polyester and nylon fabrics, membranes and trimmings.
• Superwill: their unique gradient fabric combines specialty yarns and a special knitting process, and features a thickness that decreases from top to bottom. This design allows the fabric to be tailored to different garments.
• Tri Ocean Textile: will feature its own DreamFel® high-performance filament polypropylene yarn which is lightweight, durable and environmentally friendly, and used in sports & outdoor apparel and outdoor furniture.

The Taiwan Pavilion will be full of innovative textile solutions again this edition
The Korea and Pakistan Pavilions round out the Asian offerings. Nearly 60 Korean exhibitors will showcase predominantly manmade, fancy, knitted, acetate woven, tricot, jacquard, faux leather and printed fabrics, as well as lace and embroidery, for ladieswear, while other members will feature fabrics for sportswear and outdoor wear. Those from Pakistan, meanwhile, will feature in the Beyond Denim hall and offer a wide range of denim products.  

In addition to Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Fabrics, four other textile fairs also take place at the National Exhibition and Convention Center: Yarn Expo Spring, Intertextile Shanghai Home Textiles – Spring Edition, fashion garment fair CHIC and knitting fair PH Value.

• Unique ROICA™ Premium Stretch Innovations for the Active Wardrobe Debuts @ ISPO Brandnew Village
• Hall B4, Booth No. B4.430 BN 02 Munich 28th-31th January 2018

Come and enjoy a real dedication to Responsible Innovation and Wellbeing in our new ROICA™  booth experience for Fabric Innovation inspiring the ROICA™ Active Wardrobe and the international ROICA™ Closet. Together, they will guide you to new hi-tech performance solutions in our partners unique stretch ideas, designed to meet both contemporary business and astute consumer desires. These latest ROICA™ innovations will be presented within the special ISPO BrandNew arena, a new high visibility concept of creativity revealed inside ISPO that truly matches the core DNA and values of the ROICA™ premium stretch brand.

ROICA™ will present The Modern Wardrobe concept in 3 distinct dimensions.

Together they bring to life our new stretch solutions that fit the supply chain for our target consumer confirming a clear brand identity that redefines performance creativity.

1 ROICA™ ACTIVE WARDROBE: Come and see leading commercial fashion ranges ready for the Summer 2018, that include the ROICA™ Eco Smart family and the ROICA™ Feel Good family of unique premium stretch yarn solutions.

2 ROICA™ INNOVATION: Here you can find the latest textile performance innovations from our partner mills to inspire even more brand creativity.

The ROICA™ Fabric Gallery is a rich and varied fabric offer that focuses on:
•    The revolutionary ROICA™ Eco Smart family of sustainably designed stretch yarns. These yarns are either GRS certified, or have the Cradle-to-Cradle Innovation Institute GOLD LEVEL certificate for material health, plus the Hohenstein Environment Certificate, where at its end-of-life, it smartly breaks down releasing less harmful materials. These unique commercialized solutions suites for intimates, athleisure, sportswear, and more.
•    The unique ROICA™ Feel Good family promises a new level of performance with ‘feel-good comfort’ and freshness. The ROICA™ CF yarn delivers an odor-neutralizing durable function in wash and wear because its active ingredient is locked inside the yarn and only requires a modest % to perform in most fabric structures.
•    A new ROICA™ Stretch Energy™ is a truly verified heat-generating system that combines a customised ROICA™ polymer with special fabric structures where a stretch and recovery action produces real warmth, maintaining support during exercise.

3 ROICA™ CLOSET: In this zone you can explore new ROICA™ garment designs from our experimental laboratory, using innovative Japanese fabric creativity.

Also at our ROICA™ booth, you will be able to explore sister brand Cupro innovations, designed responsibly for a new, luxe view of athleisure sportswear.

Today, the ROICA™ premium stretch brand sets the highest quality standards that are uniquely specialized and certificated perfectly focused on responsible performance for the active sportswear, swimwear and athliesure wear categories, making it the ‘smart-fit’ for the ISPO BrandNew Village presentation.

• Der neue Freeride-Handschuh Ergo Grip Incline von Hestra

München – Der Wintergott Ullr und Frau Holle scheinen in diesem Frühwinter gemeinsame Sache zu machen und versorgen Freunde des gepflegten Tiefschneepflügens mit massenhaft Powder. Kälte, Schnee und Stürme verlangen allerdings auch nach Top-Equipment. Hier kommt der neue Freeride-Handschuh Ergo Grip Incline von Hestra ins Spiel. Der Handschuh aus Bergziegen und Rindsleder kommt mit dem patentierten Ergo Grip-Design, das mit leicht vorgeformten Fingern eine optimale Passform verspricht.

Der neue Freeride Handschuh Ergo Grip Incline von Hestra vereint edle Materialien mit optimaler Passform und Robustheit. Die Handinnenfläche wird aus einem speziellen Bergziegenleder geformt. Das wird auf Grund seiner enormen Haltbarkeit auch für die Handschuhe des schwedischen Militärs benutzt und daher Army Leather genannt. Der Handrücken besteht aus imprägniertem und ebenfalls sehr robustem Rindsleder. Seine exzellente Passform verdankt der Handschuh dem patentierten Ergo Grip-Design. Bei dieser Konstruktion werden verschiedene Ebenen überlappend vernäht und verleihen dem Handschuh so eine der natürlichen Handhaltung angepasste, vorgeformte Passform. Am Handgelenk schließt der Handschuh mit einer Kombination aus Neoprenbündchen und Klettverschluss ab.

TINTEX presents a new and fresh campaign with contemporary images that signal the launch of the Autumn Winter 2019 Jersey collections presented by CEO Mario Jorge, who describes the new ‘Naturally Advanced’ position as moving on from making beautiful organics and natural materials to the next level with advanced hybrid nature/hi-tech smarts, with added value creativity, thanks to focused investments that will serve and secure our customer demands both now and in the seasons to come.

THE COLLECTION. Come and see the autumn range of more than 80 new qualities and style and discuss your own tailor made needs designed to fit the Fashion, Sportswear, Athleisure and Underwear sectors. The TINTEX Collection uses at least 60% of more sustainable materials, such as Tencel, Organic cotton, Naturally organic linen, recycled and recovered smart materials including polyesters, nylons and now a new recycled stretch elastane too. Out of preference, and in keeping with its ethos of creating low impact fabrics, the major part of the collection eschews the use of animal based fibers, with the limited exception of some organic wool, silk and cashmere blend qualities.

An exciting new development, resulting from a Swiss collaboration between textile manufacturer Schoeller and auxiliaries and dyes specialists at Textilcolor. ecodye is a new auxiliary concept used, in particular, in polyester dyeing processes. The technology accelerates the dyeing process and contributes to cutting costs, while at the same time helping to preserve the environment with a low level of demand on resources.
Less time, less water, less energy – the new ecodye auxiliary concept allows eco-friendly and cost-saving dyeing processes for polyester yarns and piece goods. It shortens the heating phase, thus accelerating process time by more than 30 percent. At the same time, it reduces energy consumption by 20 percent and the water requirement by 25 percent, as the goods can be cleaned in the cooling dye bath.
In addition, ecodye improves the dyeing levelness in polyester textiles. Spots and dye agglomeration are almost completely avoided, and the precipitation on the goods that arises as a result of polyester oligomers are no longer evident. ecodye provides good shade stability and avoids reproduction problems from batch to batch, thus reducing the rate of double staining and increasing the capacity utilization and productivity of the dyeing mill on a long-term basis.

Following a successful launch phase, ecodye has already been able to provide numerous positive test results. The technology is being used by polyester-processing customers in categories including outdoor, sportswear and technical knitted fabrics, primarily in Europe, South and Middle America, Turkey, Bangladesh and China.