From the Sector

On Tuesday 15 April, EURATEX (the European Apparel and Textile Confederation) and FTTH (Fédération Tunisienne du Textile et de l’Habillement) formalised a new chapter in Euro-Mediterranean collaboration by signing a Memorandum of Understanding (MoU) in Monastir, Tunisia. The agreement reinforces the commitment of both parties to closer industrial cooperation, with a strong focus on sustainability, investment, and trade integration under the revised Pan-Euro-Mediterranean Convention.

The signature ceremony took place at the Monastir Technopole in the presence of senior representatives, including the Governor of Monastir, the Tunisian Minister of Industry, the EU Ambassador to Tunisia, and business leaders from both regions. It marked a significant step towards establishing a structured dialogue and actionable cooperation between two key textile industries, in the context of global supply chain shifts and increasing demand for sustainable production.

“Europe and Tunisia share a long-standing partnership. While our systems may differ, our industries are deeply complementary. In a time of regulatory transformation and increasing environmental ambitions, working together is essential,” said EURATEX President Mario Jorge Machado. “This MoU offers a practical framework to improve competitiveness, drive innovation, and reinforce the resilience of our shared textile ecosystem.”

The agreement also reflects a broader vision to revitalise and reinforce industrial partnerships across the Mediterranean. In an evolving geopolitical and economic context, Tunisia stands out as a trusted and strategically located partner. Deepening regional value chains, reducing dependency on distant sourcing, and fostering nearshoring solutions are not only economic imperatives, but also critical components of building a more sustainable and resilient European textile industry. The MoU with FTTH embodies this ambition by promoting a Mediterranean model of cooperation rooted in proximity, trust, and shared economic interests.

The Tunisian textile and apparel sector is a cornerstone of the national economy, accounting for over 160,000 jobs and more than 1,600 active companies. In 2024, Tunisia exported €2.5 billion in textiles and clothing to the EU, confirming its strategic position as a nearshoring partner. The MoU supports Tunisia’s ambition to become a modern, circular and competitive textile hub, while encouraging investment and industrial synergies with European partners.

As the European textile sector undergoes profound transformation, reinforced cooperation with neighbouring countries like Tunisia is essential to shape a more sustainable and strategic regional supply chain.

EDANA, the global association and voice representing the nonwovens and related industries, and INDA, the Association of the Nonwoven Fabrics Industry, jointly express their concerns regarding escalating trade tensions.

Both associations recognize the potential for countermeasures and reciprocal tariffs to negatively impact the nonwovens industry globally. The nonwovens industry is a global sector, with many companies having significant operations worldwide, including in Europe and the United States. It is crucial to avoid a harmful cycle of retaliatory tariffs that could have a net negative effect on economies worldwide.

Both EDANA and INDA urge policymakers to prioritize negotiations and seek mutually beneficial resolutions. “While we understand the need to address unfair trade practices, we urge regions to prioritize negotiations and seek mutually beneficial resolutions,” stated Murat Dogru, General Manager at EDANA. “Escalating tariffs create uncertainty and can disrupt supply chains, ultimately harming industries and consumers.”  

Tony Fragnito, INDA’s President & CEO added, “The nonwovens industry supports fair trade and a level playing field. We encourage policymakers to consider the broader impact of trade measures and to pursue policies that foster collaboration and free trade.”  

EDANA and INDA highlight the significant role of the nonwovens industry in providing essential materials for various sectors, including hygiene, healthcare, and manufacturing in many regions, including Europe and the United States. The associations urge the US and EU to recognize the interconnectedness of the industry and the importance of maintaining open trade between the regions. At a time when manufacturers are facing cost pressures from many angles, it is imperative that American and European manufacturers remain competitive globally and have long-term clarity on import costs.  

EDANA and INDA remain dedicated to promoting trade policies that support a strong and adaptable nonwovens industry worldwide. Choosing collaboration over conflict, and commitment to open markets and productive engagement, will pave the way for a future where trade acts as a catalyst for shared prosperity and innovation, to the advantage of industries and consumers alike.

Electrically conductive prints on textiles are the basis for functional textiles with electronic functions, so-called smart textiles. Conductive inks and binders must be well matched to ensure permanent conductivity even under external mechanical influences such as stretching, pressure and bending. The DITF are working on new ink formulations that meet these requirements.

Sports, fashion and the automotive industry - textiles with integrated electronics are used in many areas of everyday life. Textile-integrated electronics help monitor human vital parameter and performance data, and enable the fashion industry to integrate interactive elements into clothing. It is used in a variety of ways in the automotive industry, where it enhances passenger comfort and safety.

The most common conductive components used in textiles to date are wrapped yarns and tension-relieved conductive yarns arranged in loops. They ensure a reliable flow of electricity even in textiles subject to high mechanical stress. Their production is complex. As a result, they are expensive and only partially suitable for the mass market. Printing conductive structures on textile surfaces using screen printing or chromojet technology, a digital spray printing technique, is much more cost-effective.

However, there are several challenges in producing printed conductive textiles. One of the biggest difficulties is ensuring the conductivity of the printed materials while maintaining the flexibility and softness of the textile. In addition, the durability of the prints can deteriorate, especially with frequent washing or mechanical stress. Stretching or movement can cause the prints to break or tear. Electrical conductivity is often impaired even under low mechanical stress, when the stretching of the conductive layer is not reversible. The adhesion between the print application and the textile can weaken with repeated stretching. This results in poor long-term stability. The integration of electronic elements into textiles is also often hampered by the fact that the connection between the conductive elements and the electronic components is prone to failure.

The DITF are working on new solutions to address these challenges. The Color- and Functional-Printing Working Group is working on new ink and paste formulations based on conductive particles and elastic binders. The aim is to improve the elongation behavior of prints while maintaining good electrical conductivity. The elastic properties of the binder are largely determined by the auxiliaries and additives used. The DITF determine the interactions between these components and derive knowledge for the formulation of new elastic and highly conductive inks.

The hysteresis properties of new ink formulations are of central importance. Hysteresis refers to the ability of a material to maintain its properties under repeated strain or stress. Well-matched hysteresis supports the conductivity of printed structures even under continuous mechanical stress. Suitable materials can adapt to the movement of the textile without compromising the conductive properties.

The goal of the research team at the DITF is to expand the knowledge of the interactions between conductive particles and binders, between additives and textile auxiliaries, in order to produce highly conductive inks and pastes. This will make it possible to produce the best possible and most resistant print coatings for different textile substrates and different applications, enabling reliable conductivity.

Under these conditions, the costs for mass production of textile electronics can be reduced.