From the Sector

The Zebun Nessa Mosque, recently completed in Ashulia, Dhaka, is a shining example of the progressive initiatives being undertaken by the Bangladeshi garment industry. Fashion Forum Ltd., a company of IDS Group, spearheaded this project, demonstrating a strong commitment to enhancing the welfare and environment for its workers.

Bangladesh, renowned as the second-largest exporter of ready-made garments globally, is setting new benchmarks in workplace safety, worker welfare, and environmental sustainability. Mr. Idris Shakur, managing director of IDS Group, epitomizes the industry’s progressive outlook. He has dedicated the mosque to the workers of Fashion Forum Limited, naming it in honour of his late mother. The gesture is designed to foster compassion and unity within the industrial community.

The mosque, designed by Studio Morphogenesis and completed in 2023, reflects a forward-thinking architectural philosophy. Sustainability was a core consideration, with the design incorporating recycled red bricks from demolished houses for the exterior walls. Pink concrete, weatherproofed with lime plaster mixed with red brick powder, blends tradition with modernity, creating a spiritual and communal haven for the workers.

A key feature of the mosque is its majestic arched opening facing the qibla, offering worshippers a serene view of the adjacent waterbody and enhancing their connection with nature. The structure's double-layered walls provide thermal comfort and facilitate natural light and ventilation, transforming the mosque into a "breathing pavilion." Enclosed gardens, reminiscent of light courts, provide a peaceful retreat from the bustling industrial environment.

Inside, an intricate perforated metal stairway leads to a crescent-shaped upper floor, dedicated exclusively to the female workers. This space serves as a serene meeting area and prayer room, empowering women and reinforcing their importance within the workforce.

The Zebun Nessa Mosque also showcases advanced construction technology, designed to withstand extreme weather conditions, further underscoring the innovative and resilient spirit of Bangladeshi garment manufacturers.

This mosque stands as a testament to the progressive and compassionate ethos driving Bangladesh’s garment industry. It highlights how manufacturers are not only focusing on economic growth but also prioritising the well-being and empowerment of workers, setting new standards for the industry worldwide.

Archroma is bringing its new SUPER SYSTEMS+ concept and key denim innovations to Denim Première Vision Milan on June 5 and 6 and Denimsandjeans Vietnam on June 26 and 27.

From classic blue jeans to fashion-forward designs with fresh cuts, colors and finishes, denim remains one of the most popular fabrics worldwide. At the same time, the industry is beginning to question traditional production methods that use considerable water and energy and also have limitations in terms of the selection of chemicals and dyes that are clean and safe.

Archroma will demonstrate its solutions at Denim Première Vision Milan and Denimsandjeans Vietnam, including SUPER SYSTEMS+ for Denim. SUPER SYSTEMS+ are end-to-end systems developed by Archroma to allow brands and mills to make an impact by saving resources, delivering more durable apparel or adopting cleaner chemistries, or by choosing enhanced outcomes in all three areas at once. The suite encompasses wet processing solutions from sizing to finishing; durable colors and functional effects that add value; and cleaner chemistries that go beyond compliance to anticipate future restrictions.

Trade show visitors will also be able to explore Archroma’s new DENIM HALO, a laser-friendly and easy washable denim, as well as a range of other product innovations, such as DIRESUL® EVOLUTION BLACK, DENISOL® PURE INDIGO 30 and EarthColors®.

DIRESUL® EVOLUTION BLACK is Archroma’s cleanest sulfur black dyestuff. Manufactured using fewer resources, it has an overall impact reduction to 57% during dye synthesis compared to standard Sulfur Black 1 liquid.* Importantly, it also offers mills the opportunity to deliver unique shade and wash-down effects that stand out in the market.

DENISOL® PURE INDIGO 30 LIQ is an aniline-free** pre-reduced indigo that creates authentic denim look with the same performance and efficiency as conventional indigo dye, but in a way that can reduce the risk of pollution. Furthermore, it is produced in an aniline-free** process to help enable cleaner denim production.

EarthColors® is a patented Archroma technology that creates high-performance biowaste-based dyes from non-edible food and agricultural waste, leaving the edible part available for consumption. EarthColors® dyes are fully traceable and help reduce the industry’s overall impact on the water footprint. Since they upcycle waste from other industries, they also help contribute to a circular economy.

* Ecotarrae lifecycle analysis
** Below limits of detection according to industry standard test methods

Multiple global regulations set to take effect in the coming years have made traceability an imperative for retailers and brands. These include the Digital Product Passport, the Corporate Sustainability Due Diligence Directive, and the New York Fashion Sustainability and Social Accountability Act, to name a few.

While companies are aware of the importance of traceability, research indicates that they are not prepared to comply with upcoming legislation. A recent KPMG survey highlighted that 43% of executives at major enterprises had no visibility or were “largely unclear” about the performance of their Tier 1 suppliers. At the same time, only 28% of companies had clear visibility into Tier 2 suppliers.

TradeBeyond’s recently published Supply Chain Traceability Guide, the latest installment of its Retail Sourcing Report series, highlights the myriad challenges that companies face in implementing effective traceability programs. This report is relevant for all industries, and is especially topical for the apparel and footwear sectors, which are under increasing scrutiny to enhance traceability to ensure sustainability.

The report highlights retail’s slow progress in achieving transparency, as evidenced by the Fashion Transparency Index, which found that the average transparency score across 250 of the world’s largest brands and retailers was just 23%. That suggests that progress on transparent disclosure of social and environmental data is still lagging.
 
The report shows that brands fall short on most key measures of sustainability and traceability, including publishing a responsible code of conduct and providing visibility into their Scope 3 carbon footprint. The United Nations Economics Commission found that only a third of the top one hundred global clothing companies track their own supply chains. One of the obstacles is complexity. More than two-thirds (69%) of fashion companies report that complexity of their global business networks is an obstacle to visibility.

In addition to a lack of visibility, false sustainability claims are also rampant. Greenpeace found that in the apparel and footwear sector, 39% of sustainability claims are false or deceptive. Lack of third-party verification of ESG measures is also rampant.

The highest scoring brands in the 2023 Fashion Transparency Index included luxury brands such as Gucci and retailers such Target Australia, Kmart Australia, OVS, and Benetton. These companies back up their commitment with solid action on multiple measures of traceability.

Along with legislative requirements, consumers are a key driving force pushing companies to improve their traceability initiatives. McKinsey research found that 66% of consumers consider transparency to be a key factor when making a purchase decision and 73% of consumers would pay more for products with transparency into production and sourcing.

The report also highlights key challenges to overcome in the journey to traceability, including effective communication between stakeholders, compliance with new regulations, technology barriers, and data complexity.

On the positive side, the industry is responding with sophisticated technology, including software systems that incorporate artificial intelligence and blockchain-enabled traceability, which provide the required visibility and compliance.

Traceable fiber technology, which allows for traceability from the material origin of a product until its end-life, provides the option of a “fiber-forward” rather than a “product backward” approach to achieving traceability.

Aside from the regulatory and consumer drivers, there is a strong business case for implementing traceability, which includes cost savings, operational efficiency, brand protection and reducing supply chain risk. As such, TradeBeyond expects a rapid evolution in traceability programs across industries, especially in those that lag in best-practices.

While there has been considerable progress in recent years toward accurately tracing the complete origins of products, much more needs to be done. Brands and retailers must intensify their efforts to stay compliant with escalating regulations and align with evolving consumer preferences.

Teijin Frontier Co., Ltd., the Teijin Group’s fibers and products converting company, announced the development of a new, multifunctional and comfortable polyester material that combines high breathability and UV protection. This new product reproduces the structure of a traditional Japanese "Sudare" blind (bamboo blind), which allows breezes to pass through while blocking out sunlight.

As extremely high summer temperatures become increasingly common, Teijin Frontier developed this new polyester to meet market demands for materials with enhanced heat protection functions. Heat protection encompasses breathability, UV resistance and anti-stickiness. However, until now, breathability – achieved by gaps between fibers – and UV protection were thought to be mutually exclusive.

To solve this dilemma, the company created a structure with slit-shaped, highly breathable areas in either the warp or weft direction of the fabric. These three-dimensional gaps, similar to those in a bamboo blind, allow the material to deliver both excellent breathability and high UV blocking performance of 85 percent or more. The structure allows air permeability of 50㎤/㎠・s or more.

This new product also offers sustainability benefits through the incorporation of recycled polyester in part. Its structure and elastic fibers provide stretch performance, while an uneven surface caused by differences in thread shrinkage and its structure avoid stickiness. Moreover, to achieve the combination of functions, Teijin Frontier also adopt special high-shrinkage technology and dying finishing technology. This material offers potential for use in both fashion and casual clothing.

Teijin Frontier will begin promoting this product for the 2025 spring and summer fashion and casual clothing collections in Japan, aiming for sales of 250,000 meters in fiscal 2024 and 750,000 meters in fiscal 2027.

SHIMA SEIKI MFG., LTD. of Wakayama, Japan will participate in the ITM 2024 International Textile Machinery Exhibition in Istanbul, Türkiye from 4th to 8th June 2024 with a full product lineup.

WHOLEGARMENT® knitting has recently gained heavy interest from the apparel industry due to the shrinking workforce of skilled sewing and linking personnel, as well as for its sustainable benefits by requiring the minimum amount of material to produce one item at a time. SHIMA SEIKI intends to gain even more interest with its new SWG-XR® flagship machine. SWG-XR® features the company's original SlideNeedle™on 4 needle beds for high quality production of WHOLEGARMENT® products using all needles, in addition to a re-designed sinker system and a compact, light-weight carriage featuring 4 systems as well as auto yarn carriers. All contribute to increased productivity as well as increased product range using a wider variety of yarn for supporting knits for all seasons, and higher quality for knitting beautiful fabrics and silhouettes; even items that were impossible to knit before, including punch-lace patterns, variable stitch knitting and intarsia knitting. Setting new standards for the next generation of waste-free, sustainable WHOLEGARMENT® knitting, SWG-XR® at ITM will be shown in 15L. The MACH2®XS WHOLEGARMENT® knitting machine, also with original SlideNeedle™ on four needle beds, will be shown in 8L. Other WHOLEGARMENT® knitting machines include the MACH2®VS V-bed machine for producing WHOLEGARMENT® items using every other needle, shown in 8 and 18 gauges, as well as the compact SWG®091N2 for producing smaller WHOLEGARMENT® items and accessories, to be shown in 10 gauge. An economical proposal in V-bed WHOLEGARMENT® knitting will also be introduced in the form of the N.SVR®183 machine in 24 gauge.

SHIMA SEIKI’s technology in computerized shaped knitting is represented by its N.SVR®122 computerized flat knitting machine in 14 gauge, and features such innovations as the R2CARRIAGE®, WideGauge® knitting, spring-type moveable sinkers, DSCS® Digital Stitch Control System, stitch presser, yarn gripper and cutter, and takedown comb. Also on display will be the SCG®122SN coarse gauge machine in 3 gauge. Automatic seamless glove knitting machines will also be present, including the SFG®20 21-gauge machine, and SFG®-I in 10 gauge.

On the software side, demonstrations will be performed on SHIMA SEIKI’s SDS®-ONE APEX4 design system and APEXFiz® subscription-based design software. Each provides comprehensive support throughout the production supply chain, integrating production into one smooth and efficient workflow from yarn development, product planning and design, to production and even sales promotion. Especially effective is the way the design evaluation process is improved with ultra-realistic simulation capability, whereby virtual samples replace physical sampling, consequently reducing time, cost and material that otherwise go to waste. Digital prototyping using virtual samples on SDS®-ONE APEX4 and APEXFiz® help to digitally transform the fashion supply chain for realizing sustainable manufacturing. SHIMA KnitManager™ knit production management software will also be shown to demonstrate solutions for maximizing productivity through monitoring of machine status and production progress.

The countdown has started for HIGHTEX 2024 International Technical Textiles and Nonwovens Exhibition, Turkey's first and only exhibition in this field. HIGHTEX 2024, which will be held between 4-8 June 2024 at Tüyap Fair and Congress Center (Istanbul), will host nonwoven products, raw materials used in production and the latest technologies in the field of technical textiles.

Technical textiles and nonwovens will be integrated into more industries and living spaces in the future. HIGHTEX 2024 Exhibition wants to be an important platform for those who are going to accelerate this integration process and shape the future of the industry. A wide range of products will be exhibited - from medical textiles produced with advanced technology to high-performance materials used in the aviation and automotive industry, from hygiene products to innovative solutions developed for the agriculture and food industry. Especially the products to be presented in innovative areas such as smart textiles and geotextiles will be among the most remarkable elements. Thanks to the B2B meetings organised at the exhibition, companies can establish new and permanent commercial connections.

INDA, the Association of the Nonwoven Fabrics Industry, announced the three finalists for the World of Wipes Innovation Award®. The Award will be presented at the annual World of Wipes® (WOW) International Conference, June 17-20, at the Hyatt Regency Minneapolis in Minneapolis, Minnesota.

The three products vying for this Award are multi-purpose cleaning wipes from Kimberly-Clark Professional, a bio-binder technology from OrganoClick, and facial care wipes from Rockline Industries. The winner will be announced on Thursday morning, June 20th.

The three companies competing for the Award are:

• Scott® Xtreme Multi-Purpose Cleaning Wipes by Kimberly-Clark Professional:
  Scott® Xtreme Multi-Purpose Cleaning Wipes are great for tackling extreme cleaning tasks, like removing oil, grease, grime, paint, adhesives, caulk, and more, yet are gentle enough to clean hands.  Featuring a patented citrus cleaning solution, the dual-action cleaning fabric incorporates a textured side to increase scrubbing action for cleaning tough soils and a smooth side for wiping surfaces clean.  Scott® Xtreme Multi-Purpose Cleaning Wipes are truly a must-have for any DIY job and cleaning on-the-go.
• OC-Biobinder® Lily1450 by OrganoClick:
  OC-Biobinder® represents a series of bio-based and biodegradable binders intended for the nonwoven and paper industry. They are produced from renewable raw materials and residual streams from the food industry and replace traditional fossil-based plastic binders. OC-Biobinder® is available with many different properties adapted to the production of home compostable nonwoven materials such as premium napkins, table cloths and wet wipes.
• Facial Care Wipe with Glycine Amino Acid Complex by Rockline Industries:
  Rockline’s development of a facial wipe product containing a unique multifunctional complex of two glycines, a phospholipid compound and a blend of glycols allows for a multitude of skincare benefits as well as providing a self-preserving system for cellulosic nonwovens. Believed to be the first application of glycines in a wet wipe formulation, the product offers improved skin smoothness, elasticity, and hydration alongside an anti-aging claim.

INDA’s Technical Advisory Board selected the finalists based on the creativity, uniqueness, and technical sophistication employed in finding novel ways to expand the utilization of nonwovens. Categories considered for the award were wipes-related raw materials, roll goods, converting, packaging, active ingredients, binders, additives, and end-use products.

The 2023 World of Wipes Innovation Award winner was Indorama Ventures and Polymateria for their Nonwoven Wipe Using Biotransformation Technology. This innovative spunlace wipe utilized advanced biotransformation technology developed jointly by Indorama Ventures and Polymateria. Meeting the BSI PAS 9017 specification, this wipe in the event it becomes fugitive, and exposed to heat, sunlight, air and moisture will transform into a harmless, bioavailable wax at its end-of-life, eliminating microplastic pollution. Compatible with mechanical recycling and combatting 'fugitive' waste, this wipe represents a significant leap towards eco-friendly, sustainable nonwoven hygiene products.

Vision and technology are the key ingredients of a ground-breaking school blazer that is showing how businesses can move to a circular textiles economy.  
 
While many brands are grappling with the complexities of inevitable legislation and engrained business models, leading school uniform producer, David Luke, has launched a fully recyclable ‘circular’ school blazer that is designed to be recycled through Project Re:claim, the world’s first commercial-scale polyester recycling plant.
 
Project Re:claim is a joint venture between the UK’s largest charity textile collector, The Salvation Army, and leading circularity specialists Project Plan B. The plant opened in the UK in January 2024, and presents huge opportunities for brands to transition to textile-to-textile manufacturing models.
 
David Luke’s circular blazer has been introduced to the brand’s successful Eco-uniform range which has sold over 1.7 million Eco-blazers in the last decade. Up until 2023, David Luke’s Eco-blazer, like many recycled garments, has been made from recycled plastic bottles. But the company has been working with Tim Cross, CEO of Project Plan B and the Circular Textiles Foundation, to bring the 100% recyclable blazer to market.
 
Tim Cross said: “David Luke has grasped the opportunity to embed 100% recyclable and 100% recycled garments into their range, starting with the school blazer. We now have the technology to enable their blazers to be recycled without any separation of the garment, making it an efficient recycling process. The team at David Luke has worked tirelessly with their manufacturers to create a blazer that does not compromise on design or quality, and yet is much kinder to the environment.”
 
Every detail from the lining, buttons and zips to the inter-linings and adhesives, has been re-thought and re-designed to meet the demands of an everyday school blazer and to recycle the garment once it reaches its end-of-life. Up until now, when the blazers have eventually been handed down to siblings, or given to the local charity shop, there had been no end-of-life solution for polyester garments apart from incineration. Now, Project Re:claim can recycle the blazer to produce polyester pellets, which are then spun into yarn to be used for future David Luke circular blazers.
 
Cross continues: “David Luke has the vision to create a fully circular range, and we have the potential to supply recycled content. The possibilities are infinite in terms of the future of garment design and manufacturing.”
 
Kathryn Shuttleworth, Chief Executive of David Luke, said: “It is a natural next step for us to transition to a textile-to-textile model. We have been producing garments using recycled plastic bottles for 15 years, but we have always had an eye on developments in textile recycling and solutions for end-of-life garments.”
 
In 2020, David Luke was awarded the Queen’s award for Enterprise for Sustainable Development and in January 2023 the David Luke circular blazer achieved Circular Foundation Textile certification.
 
Shuttleworth added: “Our focus will always be on those essential ingredients for parents and children - style, durability and affordability. But we have a responsibility to change our business model to better protect children’s future and the environment. It has become our obsession to make uniforms that meet our customers’ demands. We are really excited about the future as we continue to develop our range.”
 
Majonne Frost, Head of Environment and Sustainability for Salvation Army Trading Company, said: “Our vision is to enable companies to produce uniforms, corporate wear, fashion garments and textile ranges using recycled polyester.  We have the infrastructure to collect donations at scale and we now need companies to step up. This is an opportunity for companies to make a commitment to significantly reduce their environmental impact, and David Luke are showing us how that is possible.”

Flat knitting technologist SHIMA SEIKI MFG., LTD. of Wakayama, Japan, together with its Argentinian representative TEMCO ARGENTINA S.A., will participate in the SIMATEX exhibition in Buenos Aires, Argentina (21st - 23rd May 2024).

SHIMA SEIKI will exhibit a wide range of products, including proposals in seam-free WHOLEGARMENT® knitting technology as an alternative to labor-intensive manufacturing in the South American market. Three MACH2®VS machines, capable of knitting WHOLEGARMENT® knitwear using every other needle, will be shown in 12, 16 and 18 gauge. N.SVR®122, shown in 5 gauge, is the industry benchmark for shaped knitting, featuring such innovations as the R2CARRIAGE®, WideGauge® knitting, spring-type moveable sinkers, DSCS® Digital Stitch Control System, stitch presser, yarn gripper and cutter, and takedown comb.

Demonstrations will be performed on SHIMA SEIKI's SDS®-ONE APEX4 design system. SDS®-ONE APEX4 provides support throughout the supply chain, integrating production into one smooth and efficient workflow from yarn development, product planning and design, to machine programming, production and even sales promotion. Especially effective is the way SDS®-ONE APEX4 improves on the product planning and design evaluation process by replacing physical samples with digital prototypes based on photo-realistic simulations. These virtual samples realize significant savings in time, cost and material, contributing to sustainable manufacturing.

Juki America and Coloreel revealed a partnership that will extend Coloreel’s thread dyeing technology to the sewing industry. With Coloreel, Juki sewing machines can now access millions of precise colors in real time.

Juki’s distributors will get exclusive rights to market and sell Coloreel for sewing machines within North and South America. The first official installation of Coloreel paired with a Juki sewing machine will be at FABRIC Incubator in Arizona, USA, a fashion incubator and garment manufacturer that supports up-and-coming designers.