From the Sector

John Lewis has announced a trial where customers can bring their garments, accessories and a selection of homeware back to life through an in-store repair service. To launch the trial, John Lewis and Johnsons (part of Timpson Group) are joining forces to bring their expertise for this new offering to customers.

From reviving your wedding dress, to restoring the zip on a luxury clutch or adjusting a pair of curtains, the service will offer repair and alterations, laundry, dry cleaning and more.

Launching in selected stores from 22 July, the service will accept any brand allowing customers to drop off items to be fixed, altered, cleaned or restored, and come back to collect them after they have been given a fresh lease of life for years to come.

Extending a garment’s life by just nine months can reduce its carbon, waste and water footprints by up to 30%*. Prolonging the life of clothing is a key pillar of the circular economy, and with more consumers embracing the culture of mending and repair, recent research found that more than a third of UK adults plan to increase household repairs, rather than buying new**. This is also the case with our customers, with nearly half seeing a lifespan guarantee to repair or replace any item as the most appealing added service.

The trial will launch in five John Lewis branches: Oxford, Liverpool, Cheadle, Milton Keynes and Welwyn.

John Lewis will learn what customers want during the 16 week trial - such as the type of services customers look for, type of garments most repaired and the demographics of customers seeking the repair service - in a test and learn approach.

* WRAP, Valuing Our Clothes: the cost of UK fashion
** Aviva, Ramping up: repairs, renovations and recycling

Am 3. und 4. September 2024 findet die 54. Edition der MUNICH FABRIC START mit BLUEZONE, THE SOURCE und dem KEYHOUSE statt. Unter dem Leitthema „INTUITION“ lädt die führende deutsche Plattform für die internationale Mode- und Textilindustrie die Fashionbranche dazu ein, sich vermehrt auf ihre innere Stimme zu besinnen. Die Internationale Fabric Trade Show bietet einen Überblick über die neuesten Trends für die Saison Autumn.Winter 25/26 und lädt ein, die innovativsten Materialien und relevantesten Zukunftstechnologien für die neue Saison zu erkunden.

Das Programm der MUNICH FABRIC START und BLUEZONE umfasst zahlreiche Vorträge, Diskussionsrunden und Workshops. Am Dienstag, den 3. September 2024 eröffnet Monsieur-T. von 10:00 bis 10:30 Uhr mit seiner Trendpräsentation der BLUEZONE DENIMINED Trends das Programm des ersten Messetages und gleichzeitig die neue Trend Lectures Stage des KEYHOUSE in Halle 7, das aufgrund von Umbaumaßnahmen einmalig in die Zenith Halle integriert wird. Um 10:30 Uhr folgt eine Key Conversation und ein Deep Dive über zukunftsorientierte, nachhaltige Materialentwicklungen. Simon Angel, Kurator der SUSTAINABLE INNOVATIONS und weitere Materialexperten sprechen über innovative Materiallösungen, die zu einer nachhaltigen und zirkulären Industrie beitragen können (Trend Lectures | Keyhouse – Hall 7). Um 11:00 Uhr schließt auf der gleichen Bühne eine „In Conversation With...“-Session mit Drishti Masand, Senior Manager Sustainability Direction bei adidas an. Drishti wird im Gespräch mit Muchaneta ten Napel, Founder und CEO von Shape Innovate, erläutern, wie adidas durch Innovations- und Forschungsprojekte wie das T-REX zur Förderung der Kreislaufwirtschaft beiträgt.

Von 12:00 bis 13:00 Uhr folgt mit der Peclers Paris Trendpräsentation „Women’s Fashion Trends FW 25-26: Reduktion, Strenge versus Emotion, Kreativität“ mit Karin Schmitz ein absolutes Highlight des ersten Messetags (K1 | MOC). Gleichzeitig wird die Podiumsdiskussion „Denim Deal Germany – Unveiling First Signatories“ stattfinden, bei der Angela Velasquez, Executive Editor Rivet, und Max Gilgenmann, Geschäftsführer und Co-Gründer studio MM04, mit ihren Gästen die zukünftigen Pläne und Herausforderungen des Denim Deals in Deutschland diskutierten werden (Trend Lectures | Keyhouse – Hall 7). Von 13:00 bis 13:30 Uhr spricht Anna Franziska Michel von Yoona.ai über den Einsatz von KI in der Modebranche (Trend Lectures | Keyhouse – Hall 7). Um 14:00 Uhr folgt ein weiteres Highlight des Rahmenprogramms: amfori, Holy Fashion Group und Novateks diskutieren die Bewältigung der Herausforderungen der Corporate Sustainability Due Diligence Directive (CSDDD) anhand von Best Case Szenarien, moderiert von Muchaneta ten Napel.

Catherine Hansmann, Sustainability & Responsibility Manager des Fashion Council Germany beleuchtet mit ihren Panelists von u.a. eBay und Peek & Cloppenburg von 15:00 bis 16:00 Uhr nachhaltige Innovationen und Lösungen für die Modebranche (Trend Lectures | Keyhouse – Hall 7), gefolgt von einer Panel Diskussion mit Bornemann Etiketten und dm-drogerie markt über einheitliches Branding für internationale Marken um 16:00 Uhr auf der gleichen Stage. Von 17:00 – 18:00 Uhr präsentiert das interdisziplinäre Projekt DEVALIA Methoden zur Förderung von Nachhaltigkeit und Kreislaufwirtschaft in der Industrie. Moderiert von Maria Cristina Pavarini, The Spin Off, bietet die Diskussion Einblicke von Laura Pianazza, International Sales and Marketing, Re-Point, Andrea Venier, Managing Director, Officina +39 und Natasha Calandrino Van Kleef, Architekt sowie Expertin der Umweltkommission und der Kulturkommission von Municipio 1 in Mailand und weiteren Speakern (Trend Lectures | Keyhouse – Hall 7). Ebenfalls ab 17:00 bis 18:30 Uhr bietet die Hessnatur Stiftung einen kostenfreien Workshop dazu an, wie eine erfolgreiche Nachhaltigkeitsstrategie die Wettbewerbsfähigkeit erhöht (K1 | MOC). Der Tag endet mit einer DQS Bildungs-Session von Constanze Illner, Nachhaltigkeitskommunikation DQS, zum Thema „Navigating the Complexities of the Sustainability Jungle“ (Trend Lectures | Keyhouse – Hall 7). Diese Session bietet einen Überblick über wichtige rechtliche Entwicklungen im Bereich der Unternehmensnachhaltigkeit und zeigt auf, wie man sich nicht nur an die Anforderungen anpassen, sondern sich auch von der Konkurrenz abheben kann.

Das Vortragsprogramm des zweiten Messetags, Mittwoch, 4. September 2024, beginnt um 10:00 Uhr auf der Trend Lectures Bühne | Keyhouse in Hall 7 mit einem Trend Pitch der AMD – Akademie für Mode und Design Düsseldorf. Um 10:30 Uhr folgt an gleicher Stelle eine Session der Hessnatur Stiftung zur Automatisierung und Digitalisierung von Nachhaltigkeitsstrategien. Li Edelkoorts Fashion & Textile Forecast für Herbst/Winter 2025-26 um 11:00 Uhr wird im Raum K1 | MOC stattfinden – die limitierten Tickets für dieses absolute MUNICH FABRIC START Highlight können über die Homepage der Veranstaltung erworben werden.

Ab 11:30 Uhr präsentiert Nienke Steen, Global Lead Apparel, Textiles and Footwear des Cradle to Cradle Products Innovation Institute, wie die Kreislaufwirtschaft in der Modebranche umgesetzt werden kann (Trend Lectures | Keyhouse – Hall 7). Anschließend findet auf der Trend Lectures | Keyhouse Bühne in Hall 7 von 12:00 bis 13:00 Uhr werden auf dem von Maria Christina Pavarini und Panos Sofianos moderierten Panel „Great Green Techknowledge“ Expert:innen von Archroma & Kipas, Tonello & Officina +39, LYCRA FitSense® Denim Technology & Calik Denim sowie HILO innovative Technologien und Prozesse diskutieren (Trend Lectures | Keyhouse – Hall 7). Um 14:00 Uhr findet ein hochkarätig besetztes Panel zur transparenten Rückverfolgbarkeit von Textilien statt – mit Vertretern von Haelixa, Tex.Tracer, Trace Momentum, ISKO und Gant, gefolgt von einer Educational Session mit Dr. Marco Schmitt, Projektleiter des TransitionLab in BIOTEXFUTURE bei RWTH Aachen University, Lehrstuhl für Technik- und Organisationssoziologie, um 16:00 Uhr.

Den Abschluss des umfangreichen Rahmenprogramms bildet von 17:00 bis 18:00 Uhr eine Diskussion über die Bedeutung der Rückverfolgbarkeit und Datenpräzision im Zusammenhang mit digitalen Produktpässen und Transparenz in der Lieferkette mit Experten von Made2Flow und TrusTrace, moderiert von Muchaneta ten Napel von Shape Innovate (Trend Lectures | Keyhouse – Hall 7). Damit bieten die Vorträge, Panels und Diskussionssessions von MUNICH FABRIC START und BLUEZONE eine dichte Bandbreite an zahlreichen, inspirierenden Gelegenheiten, sich über die neuesten Entwicklungen und Herausforderungen in der Mode- und Textilindustrie zu informieren und auszutauschen.

Everyday clothing may soon be able to capture and record body movements, according to new research published by the Universities of Bath and Bristol.

Harmless low voltages are passed through conductive threads which are stitched into garment seams to create electrical circuits. Their resistance changes with the movement of the wearer's body.
This work opens up new possibilities to make digital clothing which senses and captures movements much more accurately than is possible using current phones and smart watches.

The paper describing the new clothing concept, presented this week at the Designing Interactive Systems (DIS) conference in Copenhagen, lays the foundations for e-textile designers and clothing manufacturers to create cutting-edge garments that could enhance exercise, physiotherapy and rehabilitation.

Paper co-author Dr Adwait Sharma from the Department of Computer Science at the University of Bath said: "Our research focuses on integrating technology into everyday clothing to track the effectiveness of physiotherapy exercises done at home. Doing these exercises correctly to recover from injuries is crucial, but it's difficult to know if you're doing them properly alone.
“SeamSleeve helps address this challenge by enabling physiotherapists to monitor your progress remotely. This technology could be particularly beneficial for conditions like Multiple Sclerosis, where monitoring movement is essential.”

According to Dr Sharma, current fitness trackers often don’t provide enough detail for physiotherapy. SeamSleeve is unique in that it covers the entire arm, allowing it to capture important movement data.

“We’ve successfully developed a working system based on machine learning to track 12 different arm exercises using SeamSleeve,” said Dr Sharma. “This paves the way for exciting future remote physiotherapy and exercise monitoring applications."

Professor Mike Fraser from the University of Bristol’s School of Computer Science added: "We're excited by the opportunity for clothing manufacturers to implement our designs in sleeves and other garment seams.
“We've shown that common overlocked seams in standard garment constructions can do a good job of sensing movement. The design avoids the need for a separate power source by pairing the seam with a charging coil, drawing the energy wirelessly from a mobile phone placed in the pocket.

“This means advanced motion sensing garments could be made without altering existing manufacturing processes.

"We have also shown that smartphone apps using advanced Artificial Intelligence (AI) techniques can use this movement data to match body movement to specific postures or gestures such as physiotherapeutic exercises."

The summer edition of Texworld Apparel Sourcing Paris welcomed nearly 1,200 exhibitors from 26 countries. This season event was characterised by a number of new features and the dynamics remained satisfactory. Next event: February 10, 2025, in a partially renovated Paris-Le-Bourget exhibition centre for a session rich in initiatives.

The latest edition of Texworld Apparel Sourcing Paris, offered in its full version with the Avantex and Leatherworld sectors, ended on July 3 with attendance levels down on the July 2023 session. Over and above a possible "Olympic Games effect" and its consequences on transport and accommodation costs in the capital, the current economic situation is prompting the show's organizers to explore all alternatives to adapt the offer to market demand. However, these results do not seem to have had any impact on the flow of business between visitors and exhibitors, who reported a fairly positive overall climate.

The dynamic on the booths remained steady and the exchanges satisfactory, as shown by several manufacturers particularly well established on the European market. Indian shirt manufacturer Sheraton Apparel, for example, made around thirty solid contacts over 3 days, and reported several serious approaches to African distributors. The same goes for SMIT, a Turkish company specialising in Made in Turkey sourcing, which was able to see its main European customers and open up new contacts with Canadian and Brazilian buyers.

An expanded offering
At the Near Sourcing Hub, the phygital sourcing space connected by QR Code to the B2B digital platform of Messe Frankfurt France partner FourSource, inquiries to exhibiting companies remained much the same as in 2023. The visitor profile, on the other hand, focused on buyers from networks of small multi-specialist boutiques looking for an original mid-to-top-range offering. It was in response to this market demand for differentiation that the show organizers decided to extend Apparel Sourcing's range to include new categories in the fashion accessories sector, such as jewelry and bags.

High-profile initiatives
Other innovations were also on show this summer. The yarn pavilion - a first conceived in collaboration with Yarn Expo, originally a Shanghai show run by Messe Frankfurt - showcased the expertise of Chinese, Indian, Pakistani and Taiwanese companies, while at the same time highlighting upstream products and services. At Avantex, where some twenty suppliers of solutions for more sustainable fashion were grouped together, the new Designer Hub enabled designers and buyers to discover some original initiatives, such as that of stylist Jean-Luc François' association, supported by Messe Frankfurt's Texpertise network, which trains people who are far from employment, or the 3D design studio Scotomalab.

Materra wins 2024 Avantex Fashion Pitch award
The Avantex Fashion Pitch jury has awarded the 2024 prize to Materra. This British start-up, founded in 2019, designs solutions to support the cotton cultivation adapted to climate change. At the other end of the chain, it offers brands a service designed on a Cotton-As-A-Service model that encourages them to source from the producers it supports. Materra will benefit from a €2,800 stand at Avantex Paris 2025 donated by Messe Frankfurt France, plus €2,000 from Texpertise Network, the textile sector network of the Messe Frankfurt Group, and 1 year's incubation at Foundry donated by IFA Paris, official partner of the competition.

A trendy area at Leatherworld
New for 2024, the Leatherworld sector inaugurated its Leather Trend area, developed in collaboration with publisher Edizioni AF and the Arsutoria School design centre. Designed around the expertise of Italian companies specialising in the manufacture of leather shoes and bags, this inspirational space presented the autumn-winter 25-26 trends through 4 creative axis built around the expression of simplicity, nature, dynamism (sportswear collections) and finally romanticism. Leather Trend was also an opportunity to discover the new leather tanning technology developed by Ecotan, which avoids the use of metals (Chrome) and chemicals in the leather preparation stages thanks to the use of vegetable tannins.

ISKO is taking part in the Kingpins Show in New York City. At the event taking place on 17 and 18 July at Pier 36, Basketball City, ISKO presents a selection from its diverse collections.

Attendees have the opportunity to explore a selection from ISKO’s main collection, alongside some of the company’s most innovative technologies and products. Each piece exemplifies ISKO’s commitment to blending sophisticated designs with sustainable practices.

The Main Collection is organized into five main macro groups:

• Inflexible: a range of rigid fabrics for contemporary needs, true to denim’s original heritage.
• Motion: combining comfort and an authentic look for good old rigid denim with freedom of movement.
• Extended: traditional denim aesthetic and its ultimate stretch expression. Elegance, treatments, and 4-way-stretch technologies.
• Elite: fabrics families where softness, shine, and silky feel reach their full potential.
• Momentum: unique finishes, intricate constructions, colored coatings, and special denim features.

Other highlights are:

• Casual Line: the premium experience showcasing a versatile and innovative woven fabric collection made with FSC® certified viscose and certified postconsumer recycled polyester.
• ISKO™ Luxury by PG: curated by Paolo Gnutti, this collection merges classic tastes with contemporary visions.

Finally, as ISKO’s FW 25-26 collection features RE&UP fibers, visitors can learn more about the circulartech company that recycles cotton, polyester and polycotton textile waste and transforms it into high-quality Next-Gen fibers, becoming the go-to alternative to virgin options.

Freudenberg Performance Materials Apparel launches the complete RCY 99xx series recycled polyester (rPET) shirt interlinings. This product line serves as a sustainable counterpart to Freudenberg's renowned 95xx series, which has been a staple in the industry for over twenty years.

The 95xx series, celebrated for its unique bi-elastic properties, has earned its place as one of Freudenberg Apparel's most sought-after shirt interlining ranges.

Now, taking a leap towards sustainability, Freudenberg Apparel introduces the complete RCY 99xx series. Crafted from rPET, these bi-elastic interlinings are designed to complement an array of contemporary fabrics, including pure cotton, T/C, flannel, oxford, cotton & linen blends, seersucker, jersey, and all types of stretch knits. The RCY 99xx series not only preserves the natural hand-feel, texture, and shape of these fabrics but also infuses a fresh creative dimension into shirt design.

The RCY 99xx series boasts an weight range of 30-150 g/m2, offering versatility for a diverse spectrum of shirt styles, from men’s casual shirts and women's blouses to polo shirts, sports shirts, and denim shirts. This adaptability ensures that designers and manufacturers have the flexibility to meet the evolving demands of the market while upholding sustainability principles.

The German Institutes of Textile and Fiber Research Denkendorf (DITF) are coordinating the research project, which is funded as part of the European Union's Horizon Europe research and innovation program. The aim of BioFibreLoop is to develop recyclable outdoor and work clothing made from renewable bio-based materials. The kick-off event took place in Denkendorf on June 26 and 27, 2024.

The textile industry is facing two challenges: on the one hand, production must become more sustainable and environmentally friendly and, on the other, consumers are expecting more and more smart functions from clothing.

In addition, the production of functional textiles often involves the use of chemicals that are harmful to the environment and health and make subsequent recycling more difficult.

Intelligent innovations must therefore ensure that harmful chemicals are replaced, water is saved and more durable, recyclable bio-based materials are used, thereby reducing the usually considerable carbon footprint of textile products. Digitalized processes are intended to ensure greater efficiency and a closed cycle.

For example, the BioFibreLoop project uses laser technology to imitate natural structures in order to produce garments with water and oil-repellent, self-cleaning and antibacterial properties. At the end result of the research work will be affordable, resource and environmentally friendly, yet high-performance and durable fibers and textiles made from renewable sources such as lignin, cellulose and polylactic acid will be available. All processes are aimed at a circular economy with comprehensive recycling and virtually waste-free functionalization based on nature's example. In this way, greenhouse gas emissions could be reduced by 20 percent by 2035.

The technology for the functionalization and recycling of bio-based materials is being developed in three industrial demonstration projects in Austria, the Czech Republic and Germany. At the end of the project, a patented circular, sustainable and reliable process for the production of recyclable functional textiles will be established.

The BioFibreLoop project has a duration of 42 months and a total budget of almost 7 million euros, with 1.5 million going to the coordinator DITF.

The consortium consists of 13 partners from nine countries who contribute expertise and resources from science and industry:

• German Institutes of Textile and Fiber Research Denkendorf (DITF), Coordinator, Germany
• Next Technology Tecnotessile Società nazionale di ricerca R. L., Italy
• Centre Technologique ALPhANOV, France
• G. Knopf’s Sohn GmbH & Co. KG, Germany
• FreyZein Urban Outdoor GmbH, Austria
• BEES - BE Engineers for Society, Italy
• BAT Graphics Vernitech, France
• Interuniversitair Micro-Electronica Centrum, Belgium
• Idener Research & Development Agrupacion de Interes Economico, Spain
• Teknologian tutkimuskeskus VTT Oy, Finland
• Det Nationale Forskningscenter for Arbejdsmiljø, Denmark
• Steinbeis Innovation gGmbH, Germany
• NIL Textile SRO, Czech Republic

adidas and New Zealand Rugby reveal their latest jersey designs due to be worn for the 2024 international season. Going back through the archive to the roots of the partnership, adidas designers revisited design elements synonymous with New Zealand Rugby, to craft a shirt 25 years in the making for both the All Blacks and Black Ferns.

Bold in its simplicity, the jersey offers a traditional block-black base adorned with unique silver detailing - selected for its traditional use to mark a 25th anniversary - on an enlarged fern emblem, the adidas logo, and the iconic three stripes which run down both shoulders for the first time. The jersey is punctuated by the return of an all-white collar design; a popular feature seen on some of the most loved New Zealand Rugby jerseys, including the design that saw All Blacks win the 2011 Rugby World CupTM.

Developed based on specific player feedback, the All Blacks version features a double-knit fold over design, while the Black Ferns jersey incorporates a round neck design. For the first time, the Black Ferns and All Blacks are united under a single design, creating a special link between two of the sport’s best teams.

The on-pitch jersey is made with a high-performance yarn which contains at least 89% recycled polyester, while the replica jersey is made using 100% recycled polyester. 

The Here|After event in Los Angeles, conceived by Denim Dudes' Amy Leverton and writer/prdoucer Erin Barajes, was a sucess. Powered by ISKO, this gathering took place at the Neuehouse Hollywood.

The event featured presentations and a dynamic panel discussion, spotlighting innovations in raw materials. Denim Dudes captivated the audience with their F/W 2025 forecast.

Moderated by Kate Nishimura of Sourcing Journal, the “The New Raw Materials For A Reimagined Supply Chain” panel included industry experts: Keith O’Brien, Senior PR Manager, ISKO, Nava Esmailizadeh, Head of Brand, Ambercycle, Mark Little, Product Creation/Environmental Responsibility, Patagonia and Jane Palmer, CEO of Nature Coatings.

They explored advancements in material science and circular systems, reimagining the future of the supply chain.

Commenting on ISKO’s use of textile-to-textile fibers from RE&UP, Keith says, “The integration of Next-Gen fibers is just one part of it. Turning those materials into beautiful and fashionable products that last is something else, and that’s what ISKO is great at.”

Lifestyle brand Napapijri has released a range of sustainable summer essentials for men, women and kids, using Good Earth Cotton®.

The partnership between Napapijri and Good Earth Cotton® highlights the brand’s aim to source 100% of its materials from regenerative, responsibly sourced, renewable or recycled sources by 2030. The range includes premium knitwear including T-shirts, polos and more.

Good Earth Cotton is a production system verified as having a positive Net Zero position. The Australian-grown program focuses on regenerative farming that improves soil health, enhances biodiversity and sequesters carbon ensuring that it not only has a neutral impact on the environment but net positive one.

One of the most innovative aspects of Good Earth Cotton® is the use of FibreTrace® technology, a real time verification for fibre integrity. Unlike other traceability technologies, FibreTrace® embeds luminescent pigments into the raw cotton, creating a unique signature to verify the fibre and track across the global supply chain. Luminescent pigments are pigments that create physical traceability locked to a scanning device. FibreTrace® also validates the data of the raw cotton fibre and sustainability improvements through the supply chain.

Each product in Napapijri’s Good Earth Cotton® range comes with a QR code on the label which can be scanned to display the products supply chain journey from fibre to store.