From the Sector

After navigating the challenges of 2023, Vietnam's textile and garment exports have been gradually recovering. Additionally, foreign direct investment (FDI) into Vietnam during the first five months of this year reached USD 11 billion, a 2% year-on-year increase, according to the Foreign Investment Agency under the Ministry of Planning and Investment (MPI). To cater to Vietnam’s renewed business opportunities, the Vietnam International Trade Fair for Apparel, Textiles and Textile Technologies (VIATT) will return from 26 – 28 February 2025 at the Saigon Exhibition and Convention Center (SECC).

The fair’s inaugural edition attracted 409 exhibitors and 17,262 visits from 17 and 55 countries and regions respectively. Building on this solid foundation, VIATT 2025 will continue to showcase the latest industry trends, and expand its focus on various pertinent areas. This will include the fair’s new Econogy Hub, a dedicated zone to advance the topic of sustainability in the textile industry, and to relate it closely to the demands of economic and social change. Together with the evolving environmental landscape, the fair will also help industry players adapt to the rapid adoption of new technology in the business world with the debut of the Innovation & Digital Solutions Zone. This zone will allow exhibitors to unveil the latest technology and solutions such as AI design, digital manufacturing, big data analytics, and more.

Concurrently, VIATT 2025 will continue to present a diverse range of exhibitors across the apparel, home textile and technical textile sectors, with positive feedback received from many quarters at the fair’s inaugural edition.

Apparel Fabrics & Fashion
In the first four months of 2024, textile and garment exports grew 6.3% year-on-year to over USD 10 billion. The US remains Vietnam’s top export market, followed by the EU, South Korea, China, and Japan. To meet this demand, Vietnam's textile industry continues to import a significant amount of raw materials. At VIATT 2024, yarns, fibres and fabrics for casualwear, sportswear and uniforms, as well as garment accessories, were in high demand.

Home & Contract Textiles
Vietnam’s home textile market is projected to undergo a steady CAGR of 2.4% from 2024 – 2032, driven by the rising need for modern and stylish home textiles, e-commerce expansion, and favourable government initiatives. At the fair’s previous edition, product groups included bedding, loungewear and bathroom textiles, curtains and curtain fabrics, upholstery and sofa fabrics, and home textile accessories.

At VIATT 2025, exhibitors can additionally present their latest offerings in the Home Textiles Display Zone or at dedicated product presentations, to maximise their visibility to potential buyers.

Technical Textiles & Technologies
Across the textile industry, investors are now focusing on optimising production capacity, streamlining supply chains, and enhancing product quality to maintain competitiveness in both domestic and international markets. With the new Innovation & Digital Solutions Zone to supplement the textile technology category, VIATT 2025 is set to play host to providers of textile and nonwoven machinery, CAD/CAM, CMT, and technology for embroidery, knitting, sewing, printing, and more. Exhibitors can draw more attention to their latest solutions by participating in the fair's new innovation showcase area.

The Vietnam International Trade Fair for Apparel, Textiles and Textile Technologies (VIATT) is organised by Messe Frankfurt (HK) Ltd and the Vietnam Trade Promotion Agency (VIETRADE), covering the entire textile industry value chain. The second edition will be held from 26 – 28 February 2025.

INDA, the Association of the Nonwoven Fabrics Industry, announced that absorbent hygiene professionals can register, sponsor, or reserve a tabletop exhibit for Hygienix™, November 18-21, Nashville, Tennessee. Industry leaders from around the world will gather for four days of networking, presentations, and business opportunities.

The theme for this year’s Hygienix is “Driving Absorbent Hygiene Product Innovation: Consumer Desires, Market Dynamics & Sustainability Solutions.” The event’s focus is on price tiering, shipping and trade impacts, FemTech, period poverty, pet care, adult care innovations, the UN Plastic Treaty and PFAS regulations.

Nominations are being accepted through Sep. 16th for the Hygienix Innovation Award™. Three finalists will be selected to present their absorbent hygiene technologies on Tues., Nov. 19th. The winner of the Award will be announced at the end of the event, Thurs., Nov. 21st.

CEMATEX, the European Committee of Textile Machinery Manufacturers, announced the appointment of Alex Zucchi as its new president. Mr Zucchi was elected at the General Assembly held on 14 June 2024.

Mr Zucchi has been active in CEMATEX, having been involved in the ACIMIT delegation since 2015. He is the immediate past president of ACIMIT, and continues to be a staunch advocate of the sustainability cause, including promotion of the ACIMIT green label and the recycling of textile machinery. Currently, he is the managing director and partner of Ferraro, a manufacturer specialising in finishing machinery.

Following Mr Zucchi's election, the General Assembly expressed its gratitude to the outgoing president, Ernesto Maurer, who led the association with enthusiasm and professional competence for four years. Mr Maurer will continue to be involved in CEMATEX as its vice president.

The Western Development Commission (WDC) announces the successful funding of the THREAD project. Supported by the Interreg Northern Periphery and Arctic Programme, THREADs (Textile and Habiliment Reuse for the Environment and NPA Area Development) is set to launch a transformative three-year initiative starting in September 2024, focusing on innovative textile waste management.

THREADs aims to significantly reduce textile waste in the Northern Periphery and Arctic region. With a total budget of €1.5 million, the project will implement a range of innovative approaches across the textile lifecycle—from design to disposal. This initiative includes trialling smart waste collection methods, enhancing circular practices, and integrating social inclusion initiatives in circularity efforts. Additionally, the project will explore new business models to support sustainable practices.

The project unites a diverse group of partners from across Europe, reflecting a collaborative effort to tackle an urgent environmental issue. The lead partner, Kajaani University of Applied Sciences from Finland, is joined by other key stakeholders including the Municipality of Kittilä, Kiertokaari Ltd, Remiks Husholdning AS from Norway, Technological University of the Shannon – Forge Design Factory from Ireland, University of Boras and Lulea Miljoresurs AB from Sweden, and the Icelandic Textile Center.

The funding announcement marks a crucial step towards implementing effective solutions that address both the environmental impact of textile waste and the challenges posed by fast fashion in sparsely populated areas. By focusing on sustainability and efficient resource use, THREADs is poised to create meaningful change in the way textile management is approached in the NPA region.

A new type of pure synthetic leather meets the requirements of the European Ecodesign Regulation. Made from a bio-based plastic, it is biodegradable and meets the requirements for a closed recycling process.

Many synthetic leathers consist of a textile substrate to which a polymer layer is applied. The polymer layer usually consists of an adhesive layer and a top layer, which is usually embossed. The textile backing and the top coat are usually completely different materials. Woven, knitted, or nonwoven fabrics made of PET, PET/cotton, or polyamide are often used as textile substrates. PVC and various polyurethanes are commonly used for coatings. The use of these established composite materials does not meet today's sustainability criteria. Recycling them by type is very costly or even impossible. They are not biodegradable. The search for alternative materials for the production of artificial leather is therefore urgent. In 2022, the EU adopted the Sustainable Products Initiative (SPI) ("Green Deal"). It includes an eco-design regulation that considers a product's life cycle in the conservation of resources. For textile and product design, this means incorporating closing the loop or end-of-life into product development.

In an AiF project carried out in close cooperation between the DITF and the Freiberg Institute gGmbH (FILK), it has now been possible to develop a synthetic leather in which both the fiber material and the coating polymer are identical. The varietal purity is a prerequisite for an industrial recycling concept.

The aliphatic polyester polybutylene succinate (PBS) was recommended as the base material because of its properties. PBS can be produced from biogenic sources and is now available on the market in several grades and in large quantities. Its biodegradability has been demonstrated in tests. The material can be processed thermoplastically. This applies to both the fiber material and the coating. Subsequent product recycling is facilitated by the thermoplastic properties.

In order to realize a successful primary spinning process and to obtain PBS filaments with good textile mechanical properties, process adjustments had to be made in the cooling shaft at the DITF. In the end, it was possible to spin POY yarns at relatively high speeds of up to 3,000 m/min, which had a tenacity of just under 30 cN/tex when stretched. The yarns could be easily processed into pure PBS fabrics. These in turn were used at FILK as a textile base substrate for the subsequent extrusion coating, where PBS was also used as a thermoplastic.

With optimized production steps, PBS composite materials with the typical structure of artificial leather could be produced. Purity and biodegradability fulfill the requirements for a closed recycling process.

The EU TCLF Social Partners, CEC, Cotance, Euratex and industriAll Europe call for future EU policy makers to increase their ambition to safeguard the European TCLF sectors and keep good industrial jobs in Europe. The TCLF Social Partners are all signatories to the Antwerp Declaration for a European Industrial Deal and express their full support for a European Industrial Deal to complement the Green Deal and keep quality jobs in Europe.

The European TCLF sectors provide over 1.5 million jobs in the EU (Textiles and Clothing: 1,300,000, Tanning and leather: 34,531 and Footwear: 222,000) and have a combined turnover of over €200 bn (T&C: €170 bn, T&L: €7.3 bn and Footwear: €23.2 bn). However, the industries continue to face a range of challenges, including fierce global competition, high energy prices, an ageing workforce, and a huge increase in new legislation. These challenges are especially tough due to over 99% of companies in the TCLF sectors being SMEs. As such, the European Social Partners call for increased focus and commitment in the next EU mandate to ensure that the TCLF sectors can become green and digital while remaining competitive on the global market and that no region, company or worker is left behind.

In relation to the Antwerp Dialogue, CEC, Cotance, Euratex and industriAll Europe have also signed up to a specific joint statement focused on the social dimension of an EU Industrial Deal which is vital to ensure its success and social acceptance. The following demands from the TCLF Social Partners are essential to guaranteeing quality TCLF jobs in Europe:

1. Ensure a Just Transition for our industries and workforce
2. Develop a re-skilling and up-skilling agenda
3. Promote social dialogue and social partners' involvement
4. Ensure a sensible, stable and coherent regulatory environment for our industries
5. Access to energy and raw materials
6. Free and fair trade to ensure a level playing field
7. Sustainability and increased demand for products made in Europe 

Teijin Carbon Europe has been awarded ISCC PLUS certification (Certificate Number: ISCC-PLUS-Cert-DE100-15897124). This ISCC PLUS certification covers Tenax™ Carbon Fiber produced at the Heinsberg-Oberbruch plant in Germany. This accreditation enables the Teijin Group to offer its customers sustainable products that contribute to circular economy. Teijin has selected the ISCC certification route as the International Sustainability and Carbon Certification (ISCC) is an independent organisation and the leading certification system in this field.

The ISCC PLUS certification is a voluntary system which administers the circular economy of chemicals, plastics, packaging, textiles and renewable raw materials. Raw materials which are made from sustainable source materials (e.g. via recycling or bio-based sources) are labelled with a sustainability declaration (country of origin of the raw material, quantity and type of sustainable raw material, user ID, etc.). This document then follows the product during further processing – even over several stages – until it is used by the end customer. If all partners in the chain are ISCC PLUS certified, the documents can be passed on clearly and reliably.

The Teijin Group is globally establishing a carbon fiber production and supply system based on ISCC PLUS certification. The attractiveness of ISCC PLUS certification for the Teijin Group is exemplified by the future production of sustainable carbon fibers. Teijin uses various chemical building blocks for the internal production of polyacrylonitrile. Conventional and sustainable raw materials can now be purchased and processed on the global market. In future, Teijin also intends to purchase materials that are obtained via recycling or directly based on a bio-based source.

These raw materials will then be processed into a sustainable polyacrylonitrile precursor. As the production processes are identical to those used in the conventional production of carbon fibers, the mechanical and chemical properties are identical. Based on the sustainability declaration, a clear mass balance is used to differentiate between sustainable and conventional products.

The Teijin Group obtained ISCC PLUS certification for carbon fiber and the polyacrylonitrile (PAN) precursor fiber produced at Teijin's Mishima Plant in Shizuoka Prefecture, Japan in June 2023, and began mass production of carbon fiber based on the certification in December of the same year. The Teijin Group benefits from this approach as customers are offered products that contribute to the circular economy or continue to use conventional raw materials.

The Fashion for Good Museum publishes its legacy document. The report was prompted by the museum’s closure on June 5th, 2024. It represents the museum’s mission, summarising invaluable insights gathered over six years and key results such as reaching 115.000 visitors and creating a dedicated community of more than 250.000 followers online. Committed to transparency and collaboration, Fashion for Good shares its reflections, tools, and transferable learnings, as well as the future of its collections and next steps, continuing to inspire positive change within the fashion ecosystem. All information can be accessed on the Fashion for Good website for continued use and benefit of educators, the cultural sector, and the wider public.

Looking back on its journey, the Fashion for Good Museum celebrates achievements such as hosting 115.000 visitors, including 8.000 students from 200 schools, curating 13 exhibitions, offering over 75 events, launching 4 educational programmes, reaching both current and future generations, and inspiring many to drive change in the fashion industry. With an earned media value of over 46 million Euros through press coverage since 2017, Fashion for Good's influence has been significant, evident in its 250.000 social media followers and 15.000 newsletter subscribers.

The report fulfils the promise Fashion for Good made in 2017 – to share their journey, learnings, and most impactful activities with the world. Within these pages, readers will discover reflections on their messaging, insights about creative partnerships with entities such as Lowlands Festival, Dutch Design Week, and Museumnacht to case studies of pioneering exhibitions. Their programming was created around themes and topics, such as the untold stories around cotton, circularity, and the future of biomaterials to educate and inspire visitors, ultimately empowering them to take action themselves.

Reflecting on the output of the museum during its short existence, as well as its footprint and wide reach, while acknowledging the challenges encountered during its establishment and development, Fashion for Good distilled six key lessons from Fashion for Good's sustainable museum practices:

• Recognition of Broader Shift: There is a wider movement towards sustainability in the museum sector, exemplified by Fashion for Good and the new ICOM definition.
• Storytelling for Societal Change: Cultural institutions are crucial in driving societal change in fashion consumption through storytelling.
• Innovation through Limitations: Embracing organisational limitations can stimulate innovation in museum collection management and education.
• Audience Engagement: Understanding and expanding the core audience is essential for effective engagement in sustainability initiatives.
• Measuring Impact: It's challenging to measure impact for organisations with social missions, requiring clear success criteria.
• Establishing a Sustainability Framework: Defining sustainability within context is fundamental for organisational sustainability efforts.

The LYCRA Company, a global leader in developing innovative and sustainable fiber and technology solutions for the apparel and personal care industries, is a 2024 thought leadership partner of the United Nations Fashion and Lifestyle Network and will be participating in the third annual meeting on June 3 at the United Nations (UN) Headquarters in New York City.

Jean Hegedus, The LYCRA Company’s sustainability director, will be joining the panel discussion on “Elevating Fashion: Sustainable Practices and Strategic Insights in the Apparel Industry.” She will highlight The LYCRA Company’s collaboration with Qore® to use its QIRA® product to potentially help reduce the carbon footprint of LYCRA® fiber by up to 44 percent.*

Available in early 2025, patented bio-derived LYCRA® fiber made with QIRA® will consist of 70 percent renewable content derived from dent corn. This renewable spandex will be the first available on a large scale and it will deliver equivalent performance to traditional LYCRA® fiber without requiring re-engineering of processes, garment patterns or fabrics.

This annual meeting brings together media, industry stakeholders, governments, and UN entities to advance knowledge, promote collaboration and enable action to meet Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs) in the fashion and lifestyle sectors.

The United Nations Fashion and Lifestyle Network is led by the United Nations Office for Partnerships and the Fashion Impact Fund. The Network stands as a catalyst for sustainable development within the fashion and lifestyle sectors.

*Estimate from Cradle-to-Gate Screening LCA for a representative LYCRA® fiber manufacturing facility, June 2022, prepared by Ramboll Americas Engineering Solutions, Inc.

The Zebun Nessa Mosque, recently completed in Ashulia, Dhaka, is a shining example of the progressive initiatives being undertaken by the Bangladeshi garment industry. Fashion Forum Ltd., a company of IDS Group, spearheaded this project, demonstrating a strong commitment to enhancing the welfare and environment for its workers.

Bangladesh, renowned as the second-largest exporter of ready-made garments globally, is setting new benchmarks in workplace safety, worker welfare, and environmental sustainability. Mr. Idris Shakur, managing director of IDS Group, epitomizes the industry’s progressive outlook. He has dedicated the mosque to the workers of Fashion Forum Limited, naming it in honour of his late mother. The gesture is designed to foster compassion and unity within the industrial community.

The mosque, designed by Studio Morphogenesis and completed in 2023, reflects a forward-thinking architectural philosophy. Sustainability was a core consideration, with the design incorporating recycled red bricks from demolished houses for the exterior walls. Pink concrete, weatherproofed with lime plaster mixed with red brick powder, blends tradition with modernity, creating a spiritual and communal haven for the workers.

A key feature of the mosque is its majestic arched opening facing the qibla, offering worshippers a serene view of the adjacent waterbody and enhancing their connection with nature. The structure's double-layered walls provide thermal comfort and facilitate natural light and ventilation, transforming the mosque into a "breathing pavilion." Enclosed gardens, reminiscent of light courts, provide a peaceful retreat from the bustling industrial environment.

Inside, an intricate perforated metal stairway leads to a crescent-shaped upper floor, dedicated exclusively to the female workers. This space serves as a serene meeting area and prayer room, empowering women and reinforcing their importance within the workforce.

The Zebun Nessa Mosque also showcases advanced construction technology, designed to withstand extreme weather conditions, further underscoring the innovative and resilient spirit of Bangladeshi garment manufacturers.

This mosque stands as a testament to the progressive and compassionate ethos driving Bangladesh’s garment industry. It highlights how manufacturers are not only focusing on economic growth but also prioritising the well-being and empowerment of workers, setting new standards for the industry worldwide.