Textination Newsline

Destination Mauritius - rebuiding former relationsships

Island of dreams in the middle of the Indian ocean for some travellers neighbouring the last European outpost, French overseas department La Réunion, a destination for reliable production of textiles and apparel for the European, notably German fashion market, this is the spectrum
of associations that Mauritius evokes in the heads of people. Mauritius looks back on a long time experience in producing textiles and apparel since its independence from Britain in 1968. Republic since 1992 the group of islands is one of the very few stable democracies in Africa.

Arvind Radhakrishna, CEO of Enterprise Mauritius, the organiser of the Mauritius day, April 5, 2017 at Düsseldorf Fashion House II, gives it a strong regret that the relation between Mauritius and Germany, mainly based on knitwear, dating back in the early 70ies nearly came to an end. The amount of textile exports into Germany in 2015 was just about 30 million Euros and counting. Anyhow this does not represent the strength of the Mauritian apparel industry which is a hub in the region with own inland production completed by production plants on the neighbour island Madagascar, in South Africa and some even in Bangladesh to serve a lower price level, which cannot be achieved with Mauritian production itself. In 2015, domestic exports to Europe accounted for 40 %, USA: 24% and South Africa: 21%. Charming is the fact that the delivery of Mauritian goods is duty free.

Strong support by the government

Interested buyers are heartily invited to come and see with their own eyes what the Mauritian textile and apparel industry can offer. This industry is one of the strong pillars of the gross domestic output. Others are tourism and - up and coming - the lapidary and jewellery industry. Traditional fields of production are spices, sugarcane products including rum or cosmetics.

To foster textiles and apparel exports the government sponsors airfreight costs by 40%, part of a holistic program in the speed to market scheme. To compare the benefits of Mauritius as a sourcing destination compared for example with China, besides the shorter distance, is that the minimum order quantities per style are much smaller than in China, the quality standard is high, the social compliance is given. Mauritian companies must spend 1% of their gains for Corporate Social Responsibility – CSR projects. Certificates such as BSCI, SA8000 or WRAP are common. Free entry to the EU market is guaranteed by the EU partnership agreement. And - a point that should not be neglected - most of the companies offer creative services executed by their inhouse design departments or people. This makes it clearer why the textile and apparel industry had been a strong engine for economic growth in Mauritius.

Main products are: T-Shirts, Polo Shirts, Shirts, Trousers & Denim, Pullovers & Cardigans, Formal Suits, Beachwear & Underwear, and Childrenswear etc. Main material used: cotton and its blends. There is a strong focus on knitted fabrics and jerseys of all kind paired with woven denims. The price segment of Mauritian clothing mainly ranges in the lower middle range. There is a high awareness for sustainability. The exporting companies aim to use eco-friendly substances in resources saving production processes. Laser technology for effects on denim is widely in use.

A look to the companies presenting

• FINE TEXTILES LTD
  Contact: Mamade Nohur 
  Tel.: +230 2661092/57321079
  E-mail: finetextileltd@gmail.com
  Type: Final Product
  Products: Polo shirts/T-shirts/Sweat shirts
  Minimum order: 600 pcs. per colour
  Fine Textiles mostly produce menswear. They distribute their garments under own label M*RIYANO and private label for their customers. The own label is calculated to compete with the Chinese market. Time from sample to delivery takes about 5 to 6 weeks.

• FIREMOUNT TEXTILES LTD / FM DENIM LTD
  Contact: Sangeeta Gobin
  Tel.: +230 2075836
  Email: sangeeta@firemount.mu
  Website: www.firemount.mu
  Type: Final Product
  Products: Denim fabrics & Denim and Twill Jeans pants/Jackets/shirts/Shorts/Dresses
  Minimum order: 6000-7000 yd. fabric or 2500-3000 pcs. of jeans per order
  Certifications: WRAP
  The company is fully vertical and the biggest supplier of apparel in Mauritius, still growing, looking for direct relations to retailers. Due to the latest technologies available, the company aims to fulfil the needs for sustainable production. Stretch, even power stretch is used in nearly every jeans style.

• TEX KNITS LTD
  Contact: Suresh Radha
  Tel.: +230 2865577
  Email: info@texinternational.com
  Type: Final Product
  Products: Denim trousers, jackets, shirts etc. /Knitted garments for ladies, men and children
  Minimum order: 800 pcs. per style/colour
  Certifications: Sedex Members Ethical Trade Audit (SMETA)
  The knits company is part of a group offering garments in a broad range. To serve the UK market they run an office in London. The company puts a strong focus on design input for the international clients. Production plants in Madagascar and Bangladesh serves different price ranges.

• PALMAR LTEE
  Contacts: Yannick Capiron (Knits), Genevieve Marie Figaro (Denim)
  Tel.: +230 401 7000
  Email: y.capiron@palmar.intnet.mu; gfigaro@palmar.intnet.mu
  Type: CMT & Final Product
  Products: Jeans, Chinos, Shorts, Dresses, Skirts for kids, Women & Men
  Minimum order: 600 pcs. for jerseys; 800 pcs. for jeans
  Over two thirds of the production is for menswear. The company is a family business which takes special interest in sustainable and resources saving production. The knitting department is fully
  vertically integrated. A fair trade line is being offered, pure organic is in development.Contact: Ranil Gunasekara
  Tel.: +230 4130034
  Email: camdenimltd@gmail.com
  Type: Final Product
  Products: Denim jeans for men, women, children and toddlers
  Minimum order: 1200 per style
  The company solely works for private labels. The main market until now is South Africa. The production is going to be shifted to a higher percentage of eco-friendly production, representing 17% for the time being. Prices range in the upper middle segment.

• TARA KNITWEAR LTD
  Contact: Fabiola Law
  Tel.: +230 2123715/52553621
  Email: fabiolalaw@taragroup.intnet.mu
  Type: Final Product
  Products: T-shirt, polo shirt, sweat shirt, hoody, short, pant, skirt, dress, baby grow, baby/kid swear accessories (beanie, bootie, blanket, sleeping bag, headband), sleepwear, loungewear
  Minimum order: Basic styles: 4000 units. Fancy styles: 1000-2000 units
  Certifications: BSCI
  Tara is very design oriented with a big in house design department open for design services to customers too. The company's organisation is vertically integrated. Modern equipment such as the
  Eton Mover system enables the company to react fast and operate Fast Track orders too.

• BEACHWEAR EXPORTS
  Contact: Mr. G.M Toolsee
  Tel.: +230 4545600
  Email: girdhar@beachwear.intnet.mu/beachwear@intnet.mu
  Type: Final Product
  Products: Swimwear and related products
  Minimum order: 300-500 units per style
  Certification: BSCI, SMETA, SEDEX
  All production is for private label. The company features as the leading supplier of swim and beach wear in Mauritius. Well known international brands are customers from US to Europe, mainly in Italy, France and UK as well as South Africa and Zimbabwe.

With over 113,000 visitors and 2,368 exhibitors the largest EuroShop in its 50-year history

• Great international attendance confirms its special global position
• In focus: digitalisation, omnichannel and emotionalisation of the shopping experience 
• Accompanying forums very highly attended

After five days, on 9 March 2017 saw the world’s largest trade fair for retail investment requirements, EuroShop 2017, draw to a close in Düsseldorf with the best result in its 50-year history: the 2,368 exhibitors from 61 nations report unanimously on very good to excellent contacts and business deals. Furthermore, very lively post-fair business is anticipated. Over 113,000 visitors (round about 4% over the last event) came to the Rhine to gather information on the range of products, trends and concepts for retailers and their partners on display here in the 18 exhibition halls extending over 127,000 m² of net exhibition space.

Hans Werner Reinhard, Managing Director at Messe Düsseldorf, is delighted: “EuroShop 2017 has further exceeded all the top scores achieved at EuroShop 2014. At its anniversary event it was able to once again show how young and creative the sector and its trade fair are.”

The exhibitors across all exhibition areas spent months preparing for EuroShop 2017 so as to be able to meet the competition with convincing innovations. And they encountered an outstanding response: trade visitors were delighted with product variety and the level of innovation at the stands as well as with the excellent quality and great creativity of the stand presentations.

A total of 138 countries were represented on the visitor side. Commenting on this Reinhard said: “We could not be happier with the trade visitor breakdown. We are recording a constantly high level of demand from Germany and a significant rise in interest from abroad. Throughout the world it is known that EuroShop in Düsseldorf is the global No.1 trade show in the sector demonstrating what the future of retail looks like.”

Held every three years, EuroShop 2017 kicked off with a completely new concept. Its refined profile with seven clearly defined dimensions (POP Marketing, Expo & Event Marketing, Retail Technology, Lighting, Visual Merchandising, Shop Fitting & Store Design and Food Tech & Energy Management) went down well with exhibitors and visitors alike – because this meant exhibitors could be positioned in their optimum segment while visitors conveniently found the suppliers they needed according to area of interest.

The dominant themes at EuroShop 2017 were the continuing digitalisation in retail, tailor-made omnichannel solutions and emotionalisation of the shopping experience in the store.

Online retail is currently fuelling investment in physical stores in the sector. This is because competition from suppliers online means retailers have to make their stores ever more attractive. At the same time, the dovetailing of physical and online stores is generating new retail and interior design concepts. Modern information technology is becoming ever more important here.

“Customers expect both – on the one hand the shopping experience on site in the store and, on the other, delivery to their own front door. Conventional physical retail is now increasingly developing it online activities and large online retailers are looking more and more to opening their own stores. EuroShop has managed to bring both worlds together,” explained Michael Gerling, Managing Director of the EHI Retail Institute, adding: “Physical stores and online retail are growing ever closer together, which is why at EuroShop the exhibition segments of shop fitting and technology are increasingly merging.”

EuroShop 2017 also highlighted that the top priority for stores themselves was unadulterated emotionalisation! Storytelling was at the forefront of many concepts, solutions and products at EuroShop 2017. Whether it was architecture, design, lighting or the embedding of state-of-the-art media in the shop fitting, everything has to follow a joint dramaturgy to give customers that certain kick. So it comes as no surprise that visual merchandising is continuing to gain great significance in the custom design of retail spaces. Here retailers’ willingness to invest in Germany has virtually doubled, according to an EHI study presented at EuroShop.

However, retail is also investing heavily in LED technology and refrigeration technology. This was not just another result from the EHI study, it was also visible in the halls of the exhibition centre. Here energy saving and sustainability are top priorities for retailers – which is why EuroShop Special Ecopark with its accompanying forum met with such a great response.

Overall, the accompanying lecture forums on the different EuroShop dimensions were avidly attended and many EuroShop visitors took valuable ideas home with them from the international line-up of practicefocused lectures, be this from the Architecture & Design Forum, the EuroCIS Forum, the Omnichannel Forum, the POPAI Forum or the Expo & Event Forum.

The next EuroShop will be held in Düsseldorf from 16 to 20 February 2020 and the next EuroCIS, as an annual event focusing on retail technology themes, will already run from 27 February to 1 March 2018.

• One in two trade visitors came from outside Germany
• The top 30 global retail chains were in Cologne
• Cologne expands its position as the global capital for interior design

imm cologne and LivingKitchen have achieved a record number of visitors this year. "We met our target and have broken the 150,000-visitor mark," said Gerald Böse, President and Chief Executive Officer of Koelnmesse GmbH, who is delighted with the results. Roughly every second trade visitor came from outside Germany, with foreign trade visitors accounting for nearly 50 per cent. "That shows we are right on track with our drive to internationalise the events," Böse continued. Dirk-Uwe Klaas, Managing Director of the Federal Association of the German Furniture Industry, was similarly pleased with the figures. "The Cologne furniture show was a wonderful summit for interior decor. The German furniture industry is completely satisfied with imm cologne. It was the ideal start to 2017, which will no doubt be an excellent year for the industry," said Klaas.

On behalf of retailers, the President of the German Federal Association of Furniture, Kitchens & Furnishing Retailers (BVDM), Hans Strothoff, gave the following verdict: "The trade fair met retailers' expectations. The quality of the exhibitors was high; a large number of new launches were on show, and visitors had a chance to experience attractive product presentations. This makes a visit to the trade fair well worth its while. And it's why retailers also see the trade fair as a fantastic way to launch the 2017 furniture year."

Of the 104,000 trade visitors, around 56,000 came from Germany and approximately 48,000 from abroad (an increase of 4 per cent). Within Europe, increases in visitor figures were recorded in particular from Spain (up 25 per cent), Russia (up 26 per cent), Italy (up 19 per cent) and the UK (up 13 per cent). Visitor numbers from the Netherlands and Poland also increased. Numbers of overseas trade visitors rose, in particular visitors from China (up 5 per cent), South Korea (up 12 per cent) and India (up 5 per cent). A rise was also recorded in visitor numbers from the Middle East  (up 19 per cent), with particularly strong growth from the United Arab Emirates. With these excellent numbers of foreign visitors, the two trade fairs will boost exhibitors' exports.

Koelnmesse Chief Operating Officer Katharina C. Hamma emphasised the quality of the trade visitors: "No other event brings supply and demand together as effectively in this quality as imm cologne and LivingKitchen." Initial evaluations of the results showed that the trade visitors included large numbers of the global top 30 retail chains, such as John Lewis, Home Retail Group, Harveys Furniture -all from the UK - as well as Conforama from France and Nitori from Japan. The major industry players in online retail - including Amazon and the Otto Group - also used the event intensively for their businesses. With these results, the trade fair duo has confirmed its importance for the interior design industry's global commercial operations on a national and an international level.

LivingKitchen closes with good results

In parallel with the world's most important furnishing fair, imm cologne, the international kitchen event LivingKitchen took place this year. For the seven days of the event, 200 exhibitors from 21 countries - including around 50 first-time and returning exhibitors - showed how much innovation the industry has to offer and how high its standards of design and quality are. This year's LivingKitchen not only followed on seamlessly from its success in 2015, but significantly improved on the key figures in many areas. "For us, LivingKitchen 2017 was a complete success. The world's best-performing kitchen industry needs a leading international trade fair in Germany. Our industry presented an outstanding showcase, and we are convinced that the trade fair will significantly boost demand for kitchens, nationally and internationally," said Kirk Mangels, Chief Executive of the Modern Kitchen Working Group e.V. (AMK). A great number of positive comments were received on the event's concept, which is aimed at both business and the general public. When asked about the event's added value, many exhibitors mentioned the fact that Cologne is the only trade fair where they can present their products in the context of a globally oriented interiors show. "LivingKitchen in Cologne is on an excellent course. We will analyse the results right after the trade fair to see how we can work together to continue to develop the event," said Mangels. But it was not just the exhibitors' innovative products that attracted a highly diverse audience interested in the latest kitchens and good food - the cooking events and large cooking shows also drew visitors to the trade fair on the public days.

The next imm cologne will take place from 15 to 21 January 2018 in Cologne, co-located with LivingInteriors.

Koelnmesse - Global competence in furniture, interiors and design
Further Information: http://www.global-competence.net/interiors/

• German fashion demanded
• Shoe chain CCC is expanding

Warsaw (GTAI) - The demand for textiles, clothing and footwear is developing particularly dynamic in Poland in 2016. These items are also popular Christmas gifts. Despite strong competition, Germany remains the third-largest foreign supplier of clothing and continues to grow. The German online retailer Zalando is building its first huge logistics center in Poland. The Discounter KiK is opening further branches. The domestic shoe chain CCC is expanding.

Retail sales of textiles, clothing and footwear are the fastest growing of all product groups in Poland. According to the Statistical Office (GUS) (http://stat.gov.pl), the real growth rate reached 15.8% in the first three quarters of 2016 compared to January to September 2015. The total retail sales rose by 5.3% in the same time. The forthcoming Christmas business is expected to further stimulate the demand for fashion items. The in the current year introduced children's allowance also will heat the purchase power of the Poles.

¹⁾ Estimation, ²⁾ Forecast
Source: Market research company PMR

First and foremost, growing is the demand for common items in the lower, middle and upper segment. Clothing manufacturers however in the luxury category do not benefit from the rising demand. According to the consulting firm KPMG, the poles spent in 2015 about 14.3 billion Zloty (Zl, about EUR 3.4 billion, 1 EUR = 4.1841, average price 2015) for luxury goods, including Zl 2,065 billion for clothing and accessories. These, however, form an important product group and rank second behind passenger cars (ZI 6.974 billion).

The largest domestic clothing company LPP  also felt the fact that the demand potential in the precious segment is limited. The company is known for its brands for everyone, especially "Reserved", which generates almost half (47%) of its revenues. At the beginning of 2016 LPP launched its new premium brand "Tallinder". After the sales however remained below the expectations, LPP announced the gradual abandonment of this project in September 2016.    

Tallinder was supposed to compete with the established gents brands and suppliers of other high-quality clothing names like Vistula, Bytom and Prochnik. The market leader in men's clothing Vistula, which also includes the jewelry chain "W.Kruk" and the brand of women's wear Deni Cler, expects in 2016 (2015) an increase of ZI 590 (518)  million and of its net profit to ZI 37.0 (28.3) million. Bytom follows far behind with projected revenues of ZI 154 (131) million and a net profit of EUR 14.1 (12.4) million.
 
CCC is aiming abroad

Due to the growing demand, the number of specialist stores for clothing is growing, according to GUS us to around 37,100 until the end of 2015 (2014: 35,900) . At the same time the number of stores for shoes and leather goods, which amounted to 8,200 (8,300) in 2015, fell slightly. One reason for this is the proliferation of relevant trade chains, such as the shoe chain CCC, which contributes to a consolidation, and the increasing online trade.

In 2016 alone CCC opens around 40 new stores in Poland and increases its sales area by 20 to 30% annually. In 2016 this will increase by 105,000 sqm and 2017 by 120,000 sqm (net). The trade chain is looking for additional franchisees in other European countries, now also in Asia and the USA. In the Russian Federation CCC wants to open large salons with about 1,000 square meters. According to the chain founder Dariusz Milek in an announcement of the daily paper Rzeczpospolita the presence in Ukraine, Belarus, Kazakhstan and Central European neighbors should be increased too.

The branch networks in Germany and Austria should not be increased further in the near future; In Austria there are already almost all of the targeted total 70 CCC stores.  Due to the lack of profit in these two countries, their share of the group’s total income, which is expected to reach some ZI 3.2 billion in 2016, should not exceed 10%. CCC also relies on e-commerce. After the trade chain had already acquired the online shop for shoes eobuwie.pl, it wants to start in spring 2017 with its own e-shop.

Polish imports of clothing exceed exports. The two main suppliers of textiles, China and Bangladesh, were able to further increase their deliveries to Poland in 2015. Germany also achieved growth and finished third. Slovakia has multiplied its exports. Among the customer countries Germany was by far the most important player with a further significant increase in its demand. The other ranks were followed by the Netherlands, Czech Republic, Austria, Sweden and other mostly European countries.

Source: Central Statistical Office CIS

Germany is not only characterized by high-quality clothing and well-known brands in Poland. The in Europe leading chain KIK is spreading further in the neighboring country. By the end of 2017 the number of stores should increase to 200. Its first store in Poland KIK opened in March 2012.

E-commerce is likely to give further impetus to the German supply of clothing. The large online retailer Zalando is setting up its first logistics center in Poland in Gryfino in the area of the special economic zone Kostrzyn-Slubice (Küstrin-Frankfurt / O.) for an amount of EUR 150 million. According to the property developer Goodman, it will be the largest logistics area occupied by a single company in Poland. At the same time, it is one of the most extensive BTS (built-to-suit) projects in the country, in which an object is fully built according to the requirements of the future user. Its opening is scheduled for the second half of 2017. Zalando wants to supply from there Poland, the Nordic countries and a part of Germany.

Source: Central Statistical Office CIS

• Visual marketing increases in importance for offline retail in view of e-Commerce competitors
• Display mannequins are in focus for this
• Emotionalising is decisive
• Individuality and flexibility are also demanded
• There is a shift towards semi-abstract mannequins with regional and genre differences
• Proportion of customised mannequins is rising
• Sustainability remains an issue

EuroShop is one of those trade fairs always teeming with visual highlights. Guaranteed to present a special treat here is, of course, the Visual Merchandising Hall, the exhibition place of display mannequins and store window decorations. March 2017 will see Hall 11 of Düsseldorf Exhibition Centre (instead of Hall 4 previously), become a POS experience guaranteed to attract plenty of attention. After all, in view of the e-Commerce competition, visual marketing and the resulting emotional, personalised appearance will become more and more important for bricks-and-mortar retailers. “Consumers’ emotional needs will become the overriding theme for EuroShop,” says Andreas Gesswein, CEO of Genesis Display from Auetal, with conviction.

Display mannequins hold special emotionalising potential. It is not by chance that Düsseldorf visual artist Domagoj Mrsic once presented them as “super heroes” in one of his stagings - as Superman and Wonder Woman, Batman and Catwoman, Spiderman and Spiderwoman. Provided the displays are done well mannequins are in a way real heroes. With their appearance, their posture, gestures and mimics they can really breathe life into shop windows and in-store decorations, serve as sales-promoting tools or arouse empathy, interest and curiosity. And if they are not just headless and very abstract they even give retail stores and brands a profile and signature style. With the power of their poses they send out a clear signal as to which target group is addressed, which degree of fashion and price range is served. Moreover, when arranged in groups, they can serve as story-tellers for passers-by. Unforgettable was the “Ugly’s” line of mannequins by supplier Hans Boodt, which mimicked “real-life” men rather than V-shaped boys with six packs. It included both a long, tall one and a short, fat one dressed in passion-killing underwear. “The new generation of mannequins will say more about the brand. They will participate in communicating more about each brand’s essential values and set them apart from the competition”, says Jean-Marc Mesguich, CEO of Window France headquartered in Carros.

The portfolio offered by the display mannequin industry is wide and varied: in addition to top-model lookalikes it features plus-size beauties, Europeans, Africans and Asians, the afore-mentioned super heroes and funny common people. Kissing couples feature alongside sumo wrestlers. In line with the motto "don't take yourself too seriously", vendors have long also included dogs and cats; and even chameleons since many mannequins prove to be true artists of disguise. “Cameleon”, for example, is a patented concept of Window France: Hundreds of eyes and lips are available to chose from, eye-lashes can be glued on, wigs attached/detached, different make-ups applied or the whole face can be replaced with the help of magnets – in brief, all it takes to ensure a constantly refreshed POS appearance. Add to this what is by now a huge range of colours and materials: surfaces from velvet and rubber are just as common these days as are metallic varnishes or concrete and copper coatings.     

In view of what has been presented over the past few years you may wonder what might come next. Although the majority of fashion retailers and brands have not nearly exploited the full potential already available today. In the past few years abstract mannequins were in highest demand. “They are fit for many applications and easy to handle, since no wigs or make-up have to be styled,” says Andreas Gesswein (Genesis Display) accounting for reasons and adds: “But they are also easier to copy and therefore available in every price segment.” In practice, efficiency sometimes clearly “overrides” emotion. “But when stores do not stand out with the image they project they do not prompt shoppers to enter either,” says Jean-Marc Mesguich (Window France). And for EuroShop 2017 Window France will definitely have far more in store than “exciting variations of the abstract theme”.

Faces are back again

The fact is: just like the fashion they are wearing, display mannequins follow trends. Triggered by a desire to cut a sharper profile and stronger expression, industry insiders have seen a trend towards semi-abstract mannequins. “A face is at least alluded to. Mannequins are less neutral and it becomes visible: Retailers want to make a statement again showing their true colours. There is a trend towards addressing target groups with a more high-profile message,” explains Cornel Klugmann, Country Manager for the D-A-CH region at Hans Boodt from the Dutch city of Zwijndrecht. Monica Ceruti, in charge of PR & Communication at Almax from Mariano Comense/Italy, agrees: “It is true that demand for abstract mannequins continues to be high but there is a clear trend towards more realistic facial characteristics. This includes such details as the application of eyelashes or wigs. And dynamic postures are also getting more popular again.”

Andreas Gesswein (Genesis Display) remarks: “Especially in the luxury segment we are registering stronger demand for more realistic mannequins with faces and emotional facial expressions that brands are looking for to stand out from the rest.” A trend that Jean-Marc Mesguich (Window France) confirms: “The Haute Couture brands have already abandoned the egghead in exchange for something that will have more impact and - more importantly - get people talking about their brand.” He adds: “The growing trend of viewing fashion and fashion windows online is pushing brands to make more attractive windows and to change their displays on a more regular basis.”

The days of faceless “eggheads” seem to be over. And above and beyond this? “The look and feel is becoming more and more high-end. White and grey are replacing darker shades, glossy replaces matt and aspirational looks with more charisma are more in demand,” says Cornel Klugmann (Hans Boodt). Monica Ceruti (Almax) sees great potential in “handcrafted looks”. This means torsos with and without arms with different materials for the individual components – pedestal, torso and head – and wood as well as metallic surfaces all set the tone here. Sabrina Ciofi from Design Office La Rosa from Palazzolo Milanese/Italy summarises the “principal themes of tomorrow” as follows: “Customers demand high product quality, the right price, maximum after-sales service and high product flexibility and/or diversity.” This statement should be valid across national borders. Otherwise she says despite all the globalisation: “There are as many trends as there are markets.” Monica Ceruti (Almax) concretized: “In Europe and the USA the differences are not fundamental. In the Middle East, however, mannequins without realistic traits continue to be in demand for religious and cultural reasons. This applies especially to female display mannequins.”

Customised becomes cheaper

Producers report that the percentage of customised mannequins is generally rising. These display mannequins are individually and exclusively manufactured to customers’ specifications. In this way retail companies and brands can stand out from their competitors and consistently leverage their CI. At Hans Boodt, for example, the proportion of customised mannequins is now said to be as high as 75%. And thanks to cost-cutting process optimisation it is expected to rise even further. Like Window France these Dutch vendors have now discovered 3D printing which can serve their purposes and their buyers. While in the past prototypes used to be elaborately modelled by sculptors in clay, these can now be “printed” in a time and cost-saving manner. “On top of this, the process is even more true to life and detailed,” delights Cornel Klugmann (Hans Boodt). Graphic designers create the desired mannequins with CAD systems where all the details can be freely configured. Then the files are uploaded to the printer that puts them into practice 1:1. “We can respond to trends so much faster and at the end of the day also design more new collections each year”, Klugmann explains further benefits. Jean-Marc Mesguich (Window France) adds: “Thanks to 3D we can create mannequins that really correspond to each and every brand and every brand’s precise image, to be perfectly in-sync with their public. This is an important evolution in the role that mannequins play.”

Alongside process optimisation sustainability remains important for the sector. “The fashion sector is now highly aware of this topic and attaches importance to its suppliers also complying with the relevant criteria,” explains Monica Ceruti (Almax).   The other market players polled also share this view. For La Rosa, whose mannequins are exclusively designed and manufactured in Italy, sustainability is an integral part of quality. By their own accounts, the Italians have analysed the whole life cycle of their mannequins with a view to minimising their ecological footprint. Almost half of the polystyrene used, they say, is recycled which saves substantial amounts of crude oil and carbon dioxide emissions. On top of this, La Rosa takes back its products after use and re-introduces them into the material cycle. Production operations work with a carbon-capture system, the cooling towers use process water, energy is generated by the company’s own PV park. Andreas Gesswein (Genesis Display) also underscores the importance of this topic: “Our customers focus on trust, honesty and partnership-based cooperation. And this includes providing evidence of sustainability rather than copying other peoples’ marketing straplines. In cooperation with Dupont Tate and Lyle BioProducts we have increased the percentage of biomass in our mannequins even further over the past few years, just the same way we constantly check and optimise our materials, packaging and transport routes for sustainability.” Hans Boodt is also opting for an interesting avenue. The company currently studies whether ocean plastics could be used as a raw material for production.

EuroShop as an opportunity of the future

The display mannequin market is and will be in motion – both on the supply and demand sides. “There are customers who buy their mannequins cheaply online and others who are interested in top quality, professional consulting and holistic visual-merchandising concepts,” explain Andreas Gesswein (Genesis Display) and Cornel Klugmann (Hans Boodt). There should be no doubt about who they expect to be more successful. Andreas Gesswein: “The challenges are enormous. 2016 has been especially challenging for fashion retailers, also in Asia and the USA. Companies are faced with changed market and shopper behaviours. EuroShop 2017 will therefore probably be one of the most important ones since the fair's inception.” Jean-Marc Mesguich emphasizes: “I think that it is essential to be present at EuroShop. For both suppliers and clients. It is a sure way of exchanging views and helps pave the way forward for both parties. This year we are at a turning point in the market, so it will be even more useful for everyone.” Cornel Klugmann also recommends retail representatives to visit the trade fair: “Our innovative power is the opportunity for the future.”
 
EuroShop 2017 will be open to visitors daily from Sunday 5 March 2017 to Thursday 9 March 2015, 10:00 am to 6:00 pm. A day ticket is EUR 70 (EUR 50 for an e-ticket, purchased online in advance), 2-day ticket EUR 90 (e-ticket: EUR 70) and a 4-day ticket EUR 150 (e-ticket: EUR 130). Entrance tickets include free trips to and from EuroShop on all trains, buses and trams within the networks of the VRR transport authority (Verkehrsverbund-Rhein-Ruhr).

• CADEAUX Leipzig: fabrics capture the room

New cloths the country needs: home textiles revive the modern interior design and are the focus of the professional forum for home textiles COMFORTEX at the CADEAUX Leipzig. From September 3rd - 5th  2016 interior designers, property experts, interior designers and craftsmen learn about the "new materiality" in its whole diversity and receive a comprehensive insight into the color and design trends in fabrics and curtains. In addition, the 49th CADEAUX supplies pulses for attractive decorations and innovative glass art and a variety of inspirations around the current lifestyle and culinary enjoyment.

"In September Leipzig presents the theme living for retailers in a great variety," project director Andreas Zachlod says. "A total of 350 exhibitors and brands show on the CADEAUX and on the integrated expert forum for home textiles COMFORTEX their attractive collections and current editions of a modern lifestyle."

Modern materials for room and window

Prestigious brands dominate the exhibition program in the field of cloth and curtain. Among others, the following companies show their innovations: Brändl Textile, Dr. W. Hufnagl, Edi Michel, Florentina embroidery company, Heinz Weckbrodt, Hossner Heimtex, Jürgen Schleiß Confection, Klippan Yllefabrik, Lutex Fabrication, MB Textilmanufaktur, Otto Dotzauer, Raebel, Rovitex, Stickperle, StiVoTex, Verdi Collection, Vogtländische Home Textiles, Voigtmann & Kruschwitz, W. Reuter & Sohn and Wölfel & Co. and also the EuroCom GmbH with quality pressing irons.

About the most important interior trends in terms of cloth the trend forum "New materiality in the room and at the window" will give detailed information. A café with a lecture area invites to stay in an inspiring lounge atmosphere. Bernhard Zimmermann from the sector agency BZ- BBI (Leipzig) and his creative team provide a comprehensive trend update and draw the essential material milieus in four scenarios. In that the products of all exhibitors of home textiles are positioned in the center. Twice a day professional input about the revived enthusiasm of fabrics and of ideas for modern marketing methods will be given in lectures.

Curtains on a triumphal march

"We want to give the visitors the pleasure of selling home textiles, and illuminate advantages and potentials” Bernhard Zimmermann explains. "The creative power of cloths is just rediscovered." Pioneer was the contract business: Here innovative, easy-care fabrics would be appreciated as an excellent light and sun protection and the aesthetic, acoustic and energetic functions of the textile materials would be used. "But also in the living area we are now on the threshold of a trend reversal. The living styles are changing, curtains and drapes are coming back!"

The new "Generation Cloth"

Through cloth livable, pleasant rooms in the work environment, in healthcare, hotels and in private life would arise, so Zimmermann. "They reflect what the modern human being yearn: a cozy retreat that provides livability a new way and in modern colors and raises family warmth."

Suggestions for today's "Generation Cloth" were provided inter alia by the interpretation of advanced architecture, furniture design and creative textile drape of the 50s and 60s. "The market offers the colorations and patterns for every taste - whether comfortably-natural, progressive-young, factually-geometric or classically elegant," Zimmermann says. Not least products such as pillows, blankets or curtains offer an ideal opportunity for seasonal or mood changes in the room.

Inspirational - the lifestyle trends for fall and winter

Living, furnishing and enjoying: Many inspirations and promotional information about modern lifestyle can be experienced in other exhibition areas. Ralf Meuser demonstrates in the forum "Enjoy Meat" premium kitchen accessories in action. With matching accessories from sharp knives and sharp cutting boards, selected roasters and pans to spice mills the chef prepares high quality meat dishes. With practical tips Meuser gives the retailers important sales arguments at hand and points to the potential which lays in the theme "Enjoy Meat".

A traditional material in a stylish garb is staged in the special show GLASklar with emphasis on enjoyment, home accessories and Christmas. On display are glass products from renowned exhibitors - under the label of "Enjoyment" for example, drinking glasses, carafes, dessert bowls, bottles or étagères. Under the heading "Home Accessories" for example lamps, mirrors, pictures and decoration products will be presented. Christmas tree ornaments and figures determine the theme "Christmas". Furthermore, the forum provides a fascinating insight into the art of glass processing and refinement.

Service: opening times and admission prices

CADEAUX with the special forum for home textiles COMFORTEX is opened on Saturday / Sunday (September 3rd and 4th 2016) from 9:30 AM to 06.00 PM and on Monday (September 5th 2016) from 9:30 AM to 05.00 PM. Trade visitors who register online will receive free admission. At the box office the ticket price is EUR 17.00, for regular visitors EUR 8.00. A legitimation as trade visitor is required. The ticket includes also the admission to the open dowry-area of the parallel occurring watch and jewelry fair MIDORA Leipzig.

From 26 to 28 July 2016 trade visitors from the shoe sector will be able to learn about the current trends and innovations revolving around shoes and accessories at GDS – Global Destination for Shoes & Accessories in Düsseldorf. Since the awareness of sustainability in the European footwear sector is increasing and seen as a long-lasting trend in business strategies, the European Confederation of the Footwear Industry (CEC) together with the other European partners of the “Step To Sustainability” project call upon footwear companies to participate in the International Footwear Workshop on Sustainability. The workshop entitled “Green Shoes for a Sustainable life” will be organised at the GDS shoe fair on 28 July 2016. During the workshop, companies will learn how they can increase their business value and sales whilst having a positive influence on social and environmental conditions by adopting sustainable strategies.

The workshop is being organised by the EU funded project “Step To Sustainability”, the aim of which is to create and pilot a new occupation and qualification profile and corresponding training course in the area of sustainable manufacturing in footwear. The project addresses the needs of companies wishing to engage in sustainable manufacturing by elaborating a new qualification profile, which will equip students with the necessary skills and competences to deal with sustainability issues and contribute to increasing the competitiveness of footwear manufacturers.

Applying sustainability to industry is also an important step to take. Environmental sustainability is certainly increasing in the European footwear sector. The footwear industry contributes to and is affected by the environmental degradation and social challenges that society is now facing. What initially was considered as an external environmental regulation to comply with, meaning an obligation, is now becoming part of the DNA of some companies. By introducing positive changes in production choices, companies can increase the popularity of their products and brand among consumers and business partners alike.

Carmen Arias Castellano, General Secretary of the CEC - European Confederation of the Footwear Industry stated: “Not only the environment benefits from a sustainable strategy. It also enhances social responsibility and will allow businesses to enjoy numerous advantages such as increasing revenue and cutting costs, increasing employee attraction and retention rates, creating a healthy workplace leading to greater productivity, and enhancing relationships with stakeholders and communities.”

At the workshop, there will be a presentation on the results of the Step To Sustainability project by a Portuguese SME, which participated in the pilot, as well as two panels of relevant industry representatives, who will explain best practices in the footwear sector. The first panel will focus on the manufacturing phase with presentations from El Naturalista and BATA Brands as well as the organisation LeatherNaturally; while the second will present the retailers’ approach to ensuring sustainability with contributions from Deichmann, Zumnorde, and Avocado Store GmbH.: www.cec-footwearindustry.eu

• From Wilhelm II to the traceable Supply Chain of ethical sourced Down and Feathers

• Weak Ruble makes domestic Production profitable
• Government encourages Investments

Moscow (GTAI) - Sales of textiles and clothing will continue to decline. Production in Russia however will rise. Due to the strong Ruble devaluation in the last two years, the conditions for the textile and clothing industry have completely changed. On the one hand falling real incomes lead to declining demand. On the other hand labor costs have fallen under Asian benchmarks.

Source: Rosstat 2016

Source: Rosstat 2016

Contact addresses
Russian Union of Entrepreneurs of  the Textile and Light Industry
107023 Moskau, uliza Malaja Semenowskaja 3
Tel.: 007 495/280 15 48, Fax: -280 10 85
E-Mail: info@souzlegprom.ru, Internet: http://www.souzlegprom.ru

Ministry of Industry and Trade
Department of Light Industry
Denis Klimentewitsch Pak, Director of the Department
109074 Moskau, Kitajgorodskij proesd 7
Tel.: 007 495/632 8004 (Sekretariat), Fax: -632 88 65
E-Mail: dgrvt@minprom.gov.ru, Internet: http://minpromtorg.gov.ru

Light industry department:
Director: Irina Ivanova Alekseewna,
Tel.: -632 87 31, -346 04 73; E-Mail: ivanovaia@minprom.gov.ru
Internet: http://minpromtorg.gov.ru/ministry/dep/#!9&click_tab_vp_ind=1

"Strategie für die Entwicklung der Leichtindustrie bis zum Jahr 2025"
http://www.kptf.ru/images/company/Presentation.pdf (Präsentation zur Strategie)
http://minpromtorg.gov.ru/docs/#!strategiya_razvitiya_legkoy_promyshlennosti_rossii_na_period_do_2025_goda (text of the strategy and action plan)

Observers doubt the Success of the planned Measures / Ambitions in the Automotive Industry

Nairobi (gtai) - The countries of the East African Community will prohibit the import of used clothing and used shoes in three years. Long since defunct textile and clothing industries so revived. It is also planned to impede the import of used cars, in order to promote a local car assemblers. In particular, the Ugandan President Yoweri Museveni dreams of building its own car industry.

The East African Community (EAC), who is also Kenya, Tanzania, Rwanda and Burundi belong alongside Uganda, other countries serve as role models. So to have led to building lively textile industries in Ghana, Egypt, Ethiopia, India and Vietnam, such a ban.

Used clothing is very popular East Africa. With luck, you can get hold of well-preserved Western European branded goods or shoe sizes, as they are locally not available for little money. Many teenagers from expensive villas suburbs of capitals makes a kick out, used T-shirts to buy exotic printing at prices equivalent to 0.45 euros. Thanks to the second-hand imports contribute even male slum dwellers naturally a western suit and girls or young women from a wide array chic western clothes.

1) Primarily apparently used clothing, blankets and kitchen linen of textile materials and shoes that are loose presented in bulk or bales. 2) provisionally
Source: Destatis

Politicians promise hundreds of thousands of new jobs
While East African politicians boast of being able to create in this way hundreds of thousands of jobs, incite economists from: "The reasons why people in East Africa are happy to buy used clothes easily enumerated," said Scolastica Odhiambo, an economics professor at the Kenyan Maseno University: "It is less expensive, of good quality and provides diversity." The regional textile industry have meanwhile not have the capacity to meet the demand. In addition, they do not produce quality  in the eyes of the local population. The only local manufacturer of shoes, meanwhile, the company Bata that however mainly produces shoes for students and a local SME. In the upper price segment Bata, however, is dependent on imports.

In a period of three years, it is the opinion of observers simply impossible to expand the local textile industry so that it can meet the demand both quantitatively and qualitatively. This time is also too short to find alternative employment for hundreds of thousands of second-hand clothes dealer who live with their families from the Mitumba business (Mitumba = bales).

Industrial decline since the 1980s
If the East African states really want to try willing to build a powerful textile industry, they would almost from scratch start. The East African cotton production was mid- 1980 even at the height. Tanzania had  then 700,000 bales (à 185 kg) produces cotton, reports the weekly "The East African", Uganda and Kenya 400,000 100,000. Then it was just gone downhill. Kenya had last only 25,000 bales (2014), Uganda 150,000 bales (2015) and Tanzania produced 30,000 bales (2014).

East African textile factories and Entkörnungswerke for cotton (ginneries) have shut down or run down for the most part. The main reasons included industry experts, a lack of organization of the agricultural sector, high production costs, the inadequate use of quality inputs and over-reliance on a rain irrigation. Then in 1991 came yet added the liberalization of the sector: Cheap Used clothes conquered henceforth
the market.

Uniforms instead of fashion chic?
How difficult is the situation, be seen using the example of single Rwandan textile factory L'Usine Textile du Rwanda (UTEXRWA). 1984 began its operation,the 75-million-US $ - Investment. But for an average Rwandans were and are the products simply too expensive. Finally, the utilization was only at 20%, sales fell to an estimated $ 2 million to 3 million US. Almost all substances are already imported: cotton
fabrics from the East African neighbors, polyester materials from South Africa, Taiwan, Korea and Indonesia (Rep.).

To prevent the utter collapse of the company, the Rwandan government will soon raise the import tariffs on clothing gradually from 35% to 100%. Rwandan clothing retailers see the highly critical: UTEXRWA could neither quantity nor quality and certainly not fashionable Chic deliver, not now and not in ten years. Over military and school uniforms are not there, they say.

Prohibitions instead of better frame conditions
Foreign observers speak of a typical East African policy Quick shot: Because the governments want to defuse the ticking time bomb of rapidly rising unemployment, they sat on activism without the  consequences to sufficiently discuss. If East Africa wants to strengthen its industry, it must improve the framework. Bureaucracy, corruption, nepotism and monopolies are the ones that prevent the development of competitive industries for decades.

The winner of the new policy is expected to - be the PRC, which is expected to fill along with other low-cost producers, the expected supply vacuum - again. Clothing stores in the Ethiopian capital Addis Ababa to show where we are headed: The cheapest Chinese commodity, wherever you look. The new Ethiopian textile and footwear industry is meanwhile mainly from Chinese companies which produce exclusively for export. to copy this model to other East African countries, however, is likely to fail, say industry insiders. Kenya and Tanzania are far too expensive, not to mention the landlocked countries of Uganda, Burundi and Rwanda throughout.

*) provisional; Quelle: Destatis

Protectionism to promote motor vehicle industry
Even more questionable than the East African textile policy is rekindled desire to raise its own automotive industry launched. Hopefuls nationalist politicians in Kenya is the "Mobius", an all-terrain vehicle primitive, which is equipped with a small engine from the Nissan NP200 pick-up truck. Students of Uganda Makerere University have meanwhile introduced with the help of the US Massachusetts Institute of
Technology two concept studies, the "Kiira EV Smak Car" and "Kayoola Solar Bus". While the Kenyan "development" is reminiscent of the technical status of the 2nd World War, set the Ugandan vehicles
conscious on renewable energy.

Although these backyard experiments also not likely to have the lowest commercial opportunities, they nevertheless serve currently as an excuse for protectionist import barriers, which resulted in imports are likely to be more difficult in favor of a local assembly of CKD kits.