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Focusing on short-term profit isn’t sustainable. So what can we do to move in the right direction: favour resilience over efficiency in all industries.

We buy cheap products knowing we’ll need to replace them soon. We throw out used items rather than repairing or re-using them. Our employers plan in terms of financial quarters despite hoping to remain relevant and resilient longer-term. Even countries prioritise short-term economic output, focusing on gross domestic product (GDP) above any other indicator.

But does this way of living, working and weighing decisions make sense in the 21st century?

Our global obsession with economic short-term efficiency – and how to transform it – is a conundrum that Professor of Sustainability Management Minna Halme has been thinking about for most of her career. Even as a business school student, she felt flummoxed by how focused her classes were on short-term goals.

'It was about selling more, about maximising shareholder profits, about economic growth – but not really asking, Why? What's the purpose of all this?'

Halme says. 'Even 20-year-old me somehow just felt that this was strange.

'What are we trying to do here? Are we trying to create a better economy for all, or most, people? Whose lives are we trying to improve when we are selling more differently-packaged types of yoghurt or clothes that quickly become obsolete?'

Halme has devoted her career to studying these questions. Today, she is a thought leader in innovative business practices, with recognitions including serving on Finland's National Expert Panel for Sustainable Development and on the United Nation's Panel on Global Sustainability.

Her ultimate goal? Pioneering, researching and advocating for alternative ways of thinking that prioritise values like long-term economic sustainability and resilience – alternatives that she and other experts believe would provide more lasting, widespread benefit to all.

How traditional indicators have failed
One way in which our preference for economic efficiency shapes how we measure a country's overall well-being or status is GDP. This isn't the fault of the originator of the modern concept of GDP, who specifically warned against using it in this way in the 1930s.

'GDP was never meant to tell us about the wellbeing of the citizens of a country,' Halme says. Seventy-five years ago, however, it was easy to conflate the two. Many countries were more committed to redistributing their wealth among their citizens, and population surveys show that until the 1970s, GDP often correlated with general wellbeing.

But with the rise of increasingly heedless free-market capitalism, this became less the case – and GDP's shortcomings became all the more apparent. 'We are in a situation where the wealth distribution is more and more trickling up to those who already have capital. Those who don't have it are in declining economic positions,' Halme says. In fact, the richest 1% of the global population now own nearly half of the world's wealth.

Some governments, such as Finland's, do take indicators of environmental and social progress into account. 'But none is considered as important for decision-making as GDP,' Halme says – and GDP is also considered the arbiter of a government's success. It is that attitude that, through her work advising the Finnish government on sustainability practises as well as in her own research, Halme is trying to shift.

Where industries have failed
Our often-exclusive focus on the economy – and, in particular, on making profits as quickly and efficiently as possible – doesn’t provide a clear picture of how everyone in a society is faring. Worse yet, it has encouraged industries to act with a short-term view that makes for longer-term problems.

Fast fashion is one example. At the moment, supply chains for clothing – as for most other goods – are linear. Raw materials come from one place and are transformed step by step, usually at different factories around the world, using materials, energy and transport that are “cheap” because their high environmental costs aren’t included. They are ultimately purchased by a consumer, who wears the product temporarily before discarding it. To expand profit margins, the industry pushes fast-changing trends. A shocking amount of this clothing ends up in landfill – some of it before it's even been worn.

As the COVID lockdowns showed, this kind of linear supply system isn't resilient. Nor is it sustainable.

Currently, fashion is estimated to be the world's second most polluting industry, accounting for up to 10% of all greenhouse gas emissions. Aalto University researchers have reported that the industry produces more than 92 million tonnes of landfill waste per year. By 2030, that is expected to rise to 134 million tonnes.

Cutting fashion's carbon footprint isn't just good for the environment; it will help the longer-term prospects of the industry itself. 'With this kind of wrong thinking about efficiency, you're eroding the basis of our long-term resilience both for ecology and for society,' Halme says.

Getting out of this trap, she and other researchers say, requires a complete paradigm shift. 'It's really difficult to just tweak around the edges,' she says.

Towards resilience
For several years, Halme researched and studied ecological efficiency, looking at ways that businesses could make more products with a smaller environmental impact. But gradually she realised this wasn't the answer. Although businesses could innovate to have more efficient products and technologies, their absolute use of natural resource use kept growing.

'I began to think, "If not efficiency, then what?"' Halme says. She realised the answer was resilience: fostering ways for systems, including the environment, to continue and even regenerate in the future, rather than continuing to degrade them in the present.

The solution isn’t more of anything, even ‘sustainable’ materials. It’s less.

'The only way to fix fast fashion is to end it,' Halme and her co-authors write. This means designing clothes to last, business models that make reuse and repair more accessible, and prioritising upcycling. Recycling systems also need to be overhauled for when an item really is at the end of its life – particularly regarding blended synthetic fibres, which are difficult to separate and break down.

This would upend the current focus on short-term revenue above all else. And, says Halme, it is one more example of how we need better ways to measure the success of these industries, taking into account factors like resilience and sustainability – rather than just short-term profits.

And while individuals can make an impact, these changes ultimately have to be industry-led.

'Textiles are a good example, because if they break quickly, and if you don't have repair services nearby, or if the fabrics are of such lousy quality that it doesn't make any sense to repair them, then it's too much trouble for most people,' Halme says. 'So most solutions should come from the business side. And the attempt should be to make it both fashionable and easy for consumers to make ecologically and socially sustainable choices.'

What will it take?
The ultimate challenge, says Lauri Saarinen, Assistant Professor at the Aalto University Department of Industrial Engineering and Management, is how to shift towards a more sustainable model while keeping companies competitive. But he believes there are ways.

One option is to keep production local. 'If we compete with low-cost, offshore manufacturing by doing things more locally, and in a closed loop, then we get the double benefit of actually providing some local work and moving towards a more sustainable supply chain,' Saarinen says. For example, if clothing were produced closer to consumers, it would be easier to send garments back for repair or for brands to take back used items and resell them.

Local production is yet another example of the need to rethink how we measure societal success. After all, outsourcing and offshoring in favour of cheaper production may appear to cut costs in short term, but this is done at the expense of what Halme and other experts argue really matters – longer-term economic viability, resilience and sustainability.

Shifting towards this kind of thinking isn't easy. Still, Saarinen and Halme have seen promising signs.

In Finland, for example, Halme points to the start-up Menddie, which makes it easy and convenient to send items away for repairs or alterations. She also highlights the clothing and lifestyle brand Marimekko, which re-sells its used items in an online secondhand shop, and the Anna Ruohonen label, a made-to-measurecollection and customer on-demand concept which creates no excess garments.

It's these kinds of projects that Halme finds interesting – and that, through her work, she hopes to both advocate for and pioneer.

At the moment, she says, these changes haven't yet added up to a true transformation. On a global scale, we remain far from a genuine shift towards longer-term resilience. But as she points out, that can change quickly. After all, it has in the past. Just look at what got us here.

'The pursuit of economic growth became such a dominant focus in a relatively short time – only about seven decades,' she says. 'The shift toward longer-term resilience is certainly possible. Scientists and decision-makers just need to change their main goal to long-term resilience. The key question is, are our most powerful economic players wise enough to do so?'

As part of her research, Halme has led projects pioneering the kinds of changes that the fashion industry could adapt. For example, along with her Aalto colleague Linda Turunen, she recently developed a measurement that the fashion industry could use to classify how sustainable a product really is – measuring things like its durability, how easily it can be recycled, and whether its production uses hazardous chemicals – which could help consumers to decide whether to buy. Her colleagues curated a recent exhibition that showcased what we might be wearing in a sustainable future, such as a leather alternative made from discarded flower cuttings, or modular designs to get multiple uses from the same garment – turning a skirt into a shirt, for example.
 
Because all of this requires longer-term thinking, innovation and investment, industry is reticent to make these shifts, Halme says. One way to encourage industries to change more quickly is with regulation. In the European Union, for example, an updated set of directives now requires companies with more than 500 employees to report on a number of corporate responsibility factors, ranging from environmental impact to the treatment of employees. These rules won't just help inform consumers, investors and other stakeholders about a company's role in global challenges. They’ll also help assess investment risks – weighing whether a company is taking the actions necessary to be financially resilient in the long-term.

What comes to mind when you think about “wearable technology?” In 2023, likely a lot, at a time when smartwatches and rings measure heart rates, track exercise and even receive text messages. Your mind might even drift to that “ugly” light-up sweater or costume you saw last Halloween or holiday season.

At the Wilson College of Textiles, though, researchers are hard at work optimizing a truly new-age form of wearable technology that can be proven useful in a wide range of settings, from fashion and sports to augmented reality, the military and medicine.

Currently in its final stages, this grant-funded project could help protect users in critical situations, such as soldiers on the battlefield and patients in hospitals, while simultaneously pushing the boundaries of what textiles research can accomplish.

“The goals set for this research are quite novel to any other literature that exists on wearable connectors” says Shourya Dhatri Lingampally, Wilson College of Textiles graduate student and research assistant involved in the project alongside Wilson College Associate Professor Minyoung Suh.

Ongoing since the fall of 2021, Suh and Lingampally’s work focuses on textile-integrated wearable connectors, a unique, high-tech sort of “bridge” between flexible textiles and external electronic devices. At its essence, the project aims to improve these connectors’ Technology Readiness Level — a key rating used by NASA and the Department of Defense used to assess a particular technology’s maturity.

To do this, Lingampally and her colleagues’ research examines problems that have, in the past, affected the performance of wearable devices.

Sure, these advances may benefit fashion, leading to eccentric shirts, jackets, or accessories — “to light up or change its color based on the wearer’s biometric data,” Lingampally offers — the research has roots in a much deeper mission.

Potential benefits to military, medicine and beyond
The project is funded through more than $200,000 in grant money from Advanced Functional Fabrics of America (AFFOA), a United States Manufacturing Innovation Institute (MII) located in Cambridge, Massachusetts. The mission of AFFOA is to support domestic manufacturing capability to support new technical textile products, such as textile-based wearable technologies.

A key purpose of the research centers around improving the functionality of wearable monitoring devices with which soldiers are sometimes outfitted to monitor the health and safety of their troops remotely.

Similar devices allow doctors and other medical personnel to remotely monitor the health of patients even while away from the bedside.

Though such technology has existed for years, it’s too often required running wires and an overall logistically-unfriendly design. That could soon change.

“We have consolidated the electronic components into a small snap or buckle, making the circuits less obtrusive to the wearer,” Lingampally says, explaining the team’s innovations, which include 3D printing the connector prototypes using stereolithography technology.

“We are trying to optimize the design parameters in order to enhance the electrical and mechanical performance of these connectors,” she adds.

To accomplish their goals, the group collaborated with NC State Department of Electrical and Computer Engineering Assistant Research Professor James Dieffenderfer. The team routed a variety of electrical connections and interconnects like conductive thread, epoxy and solder through textile materials equipped with rigid electronic devices.

They also tested the components for compatibility with standard digital device connections like USB 2.0 and I2C.

Ultimately, Lingampally hopes their work will make wearable technology not only easier and more comfortable to use, but available at a lower price, too.

“I would like to see them scaled, to be mass manufactured, so they can be cost efficient for any industry to use,” she explains.

In a bigger-picture sense, though, her team’s work is reinforcing the far-reaching boundaries of what smart textile research can accomplish; a purpose that stretches far beyond fashion or comfort.

Pushing the boundaries of textiles research
Suh and Lingampally’s work is just the latest breakthrough research originating from the Wilson College of Textiles that’s aimed at solving critical problems in the textile industry and beyond.

“The constant advancements in technology and materials present immense potential for the textile industry to drive positive change across a range of fields from fashion to healthcare and beyond,” Lingampally, a graduate student in the M.S. Textiles program, says, noting the encouragement she feels in her program to pursue innovation and creativity in selecting and advancing her research.

Additionally, in the fiber and polymer science doctoral program, which Suh does research with, candidates focus their research on a seemingly endless array of STEM topics, ranging from forensics to medical textiles, nanotechnology and, indeed, smart wearable technology (just to name a few).

In this case, Suh says, the research lent itself to “unexpected challenges” that required intriguing adaptations “at every corner.” But, ultimately, it led to breakthroughs not previously seen in the wearable technology industry, attracting interest from other researchers outside the university, and private companies, too.

“This project was quite exploratory by nature as there hasn’t been any prior research aiming to the same objectives,” Suh says.

Meanwhile, the team has completed durability and reliability testing on its textile-integrated wearable connectors. Eventually, the group would like to increase the sample size for testing to strengthen and validate the findings. The team also hopes to evaluate new, innovative interconnective techniques, as well as other 3D printing techniques and materials as they work to further advance wearable technologies.

During pregnancy, regular medical check-ups provide information about the health and development of the pregnant person and the child. However, these examinations only provide snapshots of their state, which can be dangerous, especially in high-risk cases. To enable convenient and continuous monitoring during this sensitive phase, an international research consortium is planning to further develop the technology of smart textiles. A patch equipped with highly sensitive electronics is meant to collect and evaluate vital data. In addition, the sensors will be integrated into baby clothing in order to improve the future of medical monitoring for newborns with the highest level of data security.

The beginning of a pregnancy is accompanied by a period of intensive health monitoring of the baby and the pregnant person. Conventional prenatal examinations with ultrasound devices, however, only capture snapshots of the respective condition and require frequent visits to doctors, especially in high-risk pregnancies. With the help of novel wearables and smart textiles, researchers in the EU-funded project Newlife aim to enable continuous obstetric monitoring in everyday life.

One goal of the consortium, consisting of 25 partners, is the development of a biocompatible, stretchable, and flexible patch to monitor the progress of the pregnancy and the embryo. Similar to a band-aid, the patch will be applied to the pregnant person’s skin, continuously recording vital data using miniaturized sensors (e.g., ultrasound) and transmitting it via Bluetooth.

For some time now, modern medical technology has been relying on smart textiles and intelligent wearables to offer patients convenient, continuous monitoring at home instead of stationary surveillance. At the Fraunhofer Institute for Reliability and Microelectronics IZM, a team led by Christine Kallmayer is bringing this technology to application-oriented implementation, benefitting from the Fraunhofer IZM’s years of experience with integrating technologies into flexible materials. For the integrated patch, the researchers are using thermoplastic polyurethane as base materials, in which electronics and sensors are embedded. This ensures that the wearing experience is similar to that of a regular band-aid instead of a rigid film.

To ensure that the obstetric monitoring is imperceptible and comfortable for both pregnant individuals and the unborn child, the project consortium plans to integrate innovative MEMS-based ultrasound sensors directly into the PU material. The miniaturized sensors are meant to record data through direct skin contact. Stretchable conductors made of TPU material tracks will then transmit the information to the electronic evaluation unit and finally to a wireless interface, allowing doctors and midwives to view all relevant data in an app. In addition to ultrasound, the researchers are planning to integrate additional sensors such as microphones, temperature sensors, and electrodes.

Even after birth, the new integration technology can be of great benefit to medical technology: With further demonstrators, the Newlife team plans to enable the monitoring of newborns. Sensors for continuous ECG, respiration monitoring, and infrared spectroscopy to observe brain activity will be integrated into the soft textile of a baby bodysuit and a cap. "Especially for premature infants and newborns with health risks, remote monitoring is a useful alternative to hospitalization and wired monitoring. For this purpose, we must guarantee an unprecedented level of comfort provided by the ultra-thin smart textiles: no electronics should be noticeable. Additionally, the entire module has to be extremely reliable, as the smart textiles should easily withstand washing cycles," explains Christine Kallmayer, project manager at Fraunhofer IZM.

For external monitoring of the baby's well-being, the project is also researching ways to use camera data and sensor technology in the baby's bed. Once the hardware basis of the patch, the textile electronics, and the sensor bed is built and tested, the project partners will take another step forward. Through cloud-based solutions, AI and machine learning will be used to simplify the implementation for medical staff and ensure the highest level of data security.

The Newlife project is coordinated by Philips Electronics Nederland B.V. and will run until the end of 2025. It is funded by the European Union under the Horizon Europe program as part of Key Digital Technologies Joint Undertaking under grant number 101095792 with a total of 18.7 million euros.

Electronically conductive fibres are already in use in smart textiles, but in a recently published research article, ionically conductive fibres have proven to be of increasing interest. The so-called ionofibres achieve higher flexibility and durability and match the type of conduction our body uses. In the future, they may be used for such items as textile batteries, textile displays, and textile muscles.

The research project is being carried out by doctoral student Claude Huniade at the University of Borås and is a track within a larger project, Weafing, the goal of which is to develop novel, unprecedented garments for haptic stimulation comprising flexible and wearable textile actuators and sensors, including control electronics, as a new type of textile-based large area electronics.

WEAFING stands for Wearable Electroactive Fabrics Integrated in Garments. It started 1 January 2019 and ended 30 June 2023.

These wearables are based on a new kind of textile muscles which yarns are coated with electromechanically active polymers and contract when a low voltage is applied. Textile muscles offer a completely novel and very different quality of haptic sensation, accessing also receptors of our tactile sensory system that do not react on vibration, but on soft pressure or stroke.

Furthermore, being textile materials, they offer a new way of designing and fabricating wearable haptics and can be seamlessly integrated into fabrics and garments. For these novel form of textile muscles, a huge range of possible applications in haptics is foreseen: for ergonomics, movement coaching in sports, or wellness, for enhancement of virtual or augmented reality applications in gaming or for training purposes, for inclusion of visually handicapped people by providing them information about their environment, for stress reduction or social communication, adaptive furniture, automotive industry and many more.

In Claude Huniade’s project, the goal is to produce conductive yarns without conductive metals.

"My research is about producing electrically conductive textile fibres, and ultimately yarns, by coating non-metals sustainably on commercial yarns. The biggest challenge is in the balance between keeping the textile properties and adding the conductive feature," said Claude Huniade.

Currenty, the uniqueness of his research leans towards the strategies employed when coating. These strategies expand to the processes and the materials used.

Uses ionic liquid
One of the tracks he investigates is about a new kind of material as textile coating, ionic liquids in combination with commercial textile fibres. Just like salt water, they conduct electricity but without water. Ionic liquid is a more stable electrolyte than salt water as nothing evaporates.

"The processable aspect is an important requirement since textile manufacturing can be harsh on textile fibres, especially when upscaling their use. The fibres can also be manufactured into woven or knitted without damaging them mechanically while retaining their conductivity. Surprisingly, they were even smoother to process into fabrics than the commercial yarns they are made from," explained Claude Huniade.

Ionofibres could be used as sensors since ionic liquids are sensitive to their environment. For example, humidity change can be sensed by the ionofibers, but also any stretch or pressure they are subjected to.

"Ionofibres could truly shine when they are combined with other materials or devices that require electrolytes. Ionofibres enable certain phenomena currently limited to happen in liquids to be feasible in air in a lightweight fashion. The applications are multiple and unique, for example for textile batteries, textile displays or textile muscles," said Claude Huniade.

Needs further research
Yet more research is needed to combine the ionofibres with other functional fibres and to produce the unique textile devices.

How do they stand out compared to common electronically conductive fibres?

"In comparison to electronically conductive fibres, ionofibers are different in how they conduct electricity. They are less conductive, but they bring other properties that electronically conductive fibers often lack. Ionofibres achieve higher flexibility and durability and match the type of conduction that our body uses. They actually match better than electronically conductive fibres with how electricity is present in nature," he concluded.

Ecole Polytechnique Fédérale de Lausanne (EPFL) researchers have developed fiber-like pumps that allow high-pressure fluidic circuits to be woven into textiles without an external pump. Soft supportive exoskeletons, thermoregulatory clothing, and immersive haptics can therefore be powered from pumps sewn into the fabric of the devices themselves.

Many fluid-based wearable assistive technologies today require a large and noisy pump that is impractical – if not impossible – to integrate into clothing. This leads to a contradiction: wearable devices are routinely tethered to unearable pumps. Now, researchers at the Soft Transducers Laboratory (LMTS) in the School of Engineering have developed an elegantly simple solution to this dilemma.

“We present the world’s first pump in the form of a fiber; in essence, tubing that generates its own pressure and flow rate,” says LMTS head Herbert Shea. “Now, we can sew our fiber pumps directly into textiles and clothing, leaving conventional pumps behind.” The research has been published in the journal Science.

Lightweight, powerful…and washable
Shea’s lab has a history of forward-thinking fluidics. In 2019, they produced the world’s first stretchable pump.

“This work builds on our previous generation of soft pump,” says Michael Smith, an LMTS post-doctoral researcher and lead author of the study. “The fiber format allows us to make lighter, more powerful pumps that are inherently more compat-ible with wearable technology.”

The LMTS fiber pumps use a principle called charge injection electrohydrodynamics (EHD) to generate a fluid flow without any moving parts. Two helical electrodes embedded in the pump wall ionize and accelerate molecules of a special non-conductive liquid. The ion movement and electrode shape generate a net forward fluid flow, resulting in silent, vibration-free operation, and requiring just a palm-sized power supply and battery.

To achieve the pump’s unique structure, the researchers developed a novel fabrication technique that involves twisting copper wires and polyurethane threads together around a steel rod, and then fusing them with heat. After the rod is removed, the 2 mm fibers can be integrated into textiles using standard weaving and sewing techniques.

The pump’s simple design has a number of advantages. The materials required are cheap and readily available, and the manufacturing process can be easily scaled up. Because the amount of pressure generated by the pump is directly linked to its length, the tubes can be cut to match the application, optimizing performance while minimizing weight. The robust design can also be washed with conventional detergents.

From exoskeletons to virtual reality
The authors have already demonstrated how these fiber pumps can be used in new and exciting wearable technologies. For example, they can circulate hot and cold fluid through garments for those working in extreme temperature environments or in a therapeutic setting to help manage inflammation; and even for those looking to optimize athletic performance.

“These applications require long lengths of tubing anyway, and in our case, the tubing is the pump. This means we can make very simple and lightweight fluidic circuits that are convenient and comfortable to wear,” Smith says.

The study also describes artificial muscles made from fabric and embedded fiber pumps, which could be used to power soft exoskeletons to help patients move and walk.

The pump could even bring a new dimension to the world of virtual reality by simulating the sensation of temperature. In this case, users wear a glove with pumps filled with hot or cold liquid, allowing them to feel temperature changes in response to contact with a virtual object.

Pumped up for the future
The researchers are already looking to improve the performance of their device. “The pumps already perform well, and we’re confident that with more work, we can continue to make improvements in areas like efficiency and lifetime,” says Smith. Work has already started on scaling up the production of the fiber pumps, and the LMTS also has plans to embed them into more complex wearable devices.

“We believe that this innovation is a game-changer for wearable technology,” Shea says.

• With fast fashion, the quantity of clothes produced and thrown away has boomed.

Fast fashion is the constant provision of new styles at very low prices. To tackle the impact on the environment, the EU wants to reduce textile waste and increase the life cycle and recycling of textiles. This is part of the plan to achieve a circular economy by 2050.

Overconsumption of natural resources
It takes a lot of water to produce textile, plus land to grow cotton and other fibres. It is estimated that the global textile and clothing industry used 79 billion cubic metres of water in 2015, while the needs of the EU's whole economy amounted to 266 billion cubic metres in 2017.

To make a single cotton t-shirt, 2,700 litres of fresh water are required according to estimates, enough to meet one person’s drinking needs for 2.5 years.

The textile sector was the third largest source of water degradation and land use in 2020. In that year, it took on average nine cubic metres of water, 400 square metres of land and 391 kilogrammes (kg) of raw materials to provide clothes and shoes for each EU citizen.

Water pollution
Textile production is estimated to be responsible for about 20% of global clean water pollution from dyeing and finishing products.

Laundering synthetic clothes accounts for 35% of primary microplastics released into the environment. A single laundry load of polyester clothes can discharge 700,000 microplastic fibres that can end up in the food chain.

The majority of microplastics from textiles are released during the first few washes. Fast fashion is based on mass production, low prices and high sales volumes that promotes many first washes.

Washing synthetic products has caused more than 14 million tonnes of microplastics to accumulate on the bottom of the oceans. In addition to this global problem, the pollution generated by garment production has a devastating impact on the health of local people, animals and ecosystems where the factories are located.

Greenhouse gas emissions
The fashion industry is estimated to be responsible for 10% of global carbon emissions – more than international flights and maritime shipping combined.

According to the European Environment Agency, textile purchases in the EU in 2020 generated about 270 kg of CO2 emissions per person. That means textile products consumed in the EU generated greenhouse gas emissions of 121 million tonnes.

Textile waste in landfills and low recycling rates
The way people get rid of unwanted clothes has also changed, with items being thrown away rather than donated. Less than half of used clothes are collected for reuse or recycling, and only 1% of used clothes are recycled into new clothes, since technologies that would enable clothes to be recycled into virgin fibres are only now starting to emerge.

Between 2000 and 2015, clothing production doubled, while the average use of an item of clothing has decreased.

Europeans use nearly 26 kilos of textiles and discard about 11 kilos of them every year. Used clothes can be exported outside the EU, but are mostly (87%) incinerated or landfilled.

The rise of fast fashion has been crucial in the increase in consumption, driven partly by social media and the industry bringing fashion trends to more consumers at a faster pace than in the past.

The new strategies to tackle this issue include developing new business models for clothing rental, designing products in a way that would make re-use and recycling easier (circular fashion), convincing consumers to buy fewer clothes of better quality (slow fashion) and generally steering consumer behaviour towards more sustainable options.

Work in progress: the EU strategy for sustainable and circular textiles
As part of the circular economy action plan, the European Commission presented in March 2022 a new strategy to make textiles more durable, repairable, reusable and recyclable, tackle fast fashion and stimulate innovation within the sector.

The new strategy includes new ecodesign requirements for textiles, clearer information, a Digital Product Passport and calls companies to take responsibility and act to minimise their carbon and environmental footprints

On 1 June 2023, MEPs set out proposals for tougher EU measures to halt the excessive production and consumption of textiles. Parliament’s report calls for textiles to be produced respecting human, social and labour rights, as well as the environment and animal welfare.

Existing EU measures to tackle textile waste
Under the waste directive approved by the Parliament in 2018, EU countries are obliged to collect textiles separately by 2025. The new Commission strategy also includes measures to, tackle the presence of hazardous chemicals, calls producers have to take responsibility for their products along the value chain, including when they become wasteand help consumers to choose sustainable textiles.

The EU has an EU Ecolabel that producers respecting ecological criteria can apply to items, ensuring a limited use of harmful substances and reduced water and air pollution.

The EU has also introduced some measures to mitigate the impact of textile waste on the environment. Horizon 2020 funds Resyntex, a project using chemical recycling, which could provide a circular economy business model for the textile industry.

A more sustainable model of textile production also has the potential to boost the economy. "Europe finds itself in an unprecedented health and economic crisis, revealing the fragility of our global supply chains," said lead MEP Huitema. "Stimulating new innovative business models will in turn create new economic growth and the job opportunities Europe will need to recover."

The technology developed by The Hong Kong Research Institute of Textiles and Apparel (HKRITA) with the support of H&M Foundation, can separate microplastics from wastewater using soundwaves. Acousweep is a plug-and-play application. The technology can be easily transported and connected to any wastewater facility. If the technology is implemented at an industrial scale, it will have a significant impact on the fashion industry’s sustainable footprint.
 
Microplastic pollution is a globally established problem and a threat to ecosystems, animals, and people. Microplastics come from a variety of sources, including from larger plastic debris that degrades into smaller and smaller pieces, or microbeads in exfoliating health and beauty products, or cleansers such as toothpaste. According to the European Environment Agency the major source of oceanic microplastic pollution, about 16%-35% globally, comes from synthetic textiles. Professor Christine Loh, Chief Development Strategist at the Institute for the Environment, The Hong Kong University of Science and Technology, agrees that this technology has great potential.

Microplastics typically refers to tiny plastic pieces or particles smaller than 5mm in diameter according to the definition of United Nations Environment Programme (UNEP) and the European Union (EU). The new technology can separate microplastic fibre longer than 20 μm, which is 250 times smaller than the typical size. Unlike existing filtration processes, the system enables continuous water treatment and easy collection of microplastic fibres by virtue of its acoustic manipulation technique.

Acousweep utilises sweeping acoustic waves in a specially shaped chamber to physically trap and separate microplastic fibres from wastewater effectively. The whole process is merely a physical collection and separation. No chemical, solvent or biological additives are needed. The separated microplastics drip into a collection tank for further treatment, such as recycling. Acousweep, with a developing lab-scale treatment system of the capacity of 100L of water per hour, can be upscaled in industrial plants. The system can be installed in a container with a processing capacity up to 5-10T per hour. The containerised system can be easily transported and connected to the existing sewage outlets of the wastewater treatment system.
 
Process of Microplastic Fibre Separation:

1. At one end of the chamber is a transducer that generates a sweeping acoustic wave at ultrasound frequencies. At the other end, there is a reflector, inside which sweeping acoustic waves are reflected and forms standing waves.
2. When standing waves are applied to the particles in a fluid, an acoustic radiation force traps the particles.
3. The standing waves then transfer the trapped particles to the reflector side; after that, particles concentrate at the apex of the reflector.
4. At the apex is a needle valve which is controlled by a sensory system that monitors the concentration of microplastic fibres there. When the concentration is sufficiently high, the sensory system opens the needle valve to let the microplastic fibres drip into a collection tank.
5. A high temperature can be applied to the collection tank to remove the water, leaving the fibres to agglomerate and form a large mass that can be easily dealt with in future treatment.

Green tech has just taken a leap forward in Hong Kong. Acousweep will help the garment and other industries to stop a highly damaging form of pollution. HKRITA used a new technique to remove the microplastics by using soundwave-based system, preventing them from getting into the sea and being ingested by sea life that can even be ingested by humans along the food chain. Acousweep has the capacity to revolutionize industry, says Professor Christine Loh, Chief Development Strategist at the Institute for the Environment, The Hong Kong University of Science and Technology.

 

Scientists at the Fraunhofer Institute for Biomedical Engineering IBMT have been working with international partners to develop a technology platform to help relieve the symptoms of muscle tremors. Tiny biocompatible electrodes in the muscles, combined with external electrodes and controllers, form an intelligent network of sensors and actuators to detect muscle signals and provide electrical stimuli as needed. Together with exoskeletons, the technology could also help people with spinal cord injuries.

A compact controller on a belt or under a jacket, a couple of discreet textile electrodes on the arms and legs, and electrodes three centimeters long and barely a millimeter thin in the muscle are all it will take to help people with tremor disorders in the future. Whenever muscle tremors start, the system sends electrical stimuli to the muscles; these stimuli are registered by the nervous system. The nervous system then stops sending interfering signals to the muscles, which settle down again. That is the basic idea behind the technology that scientists from Fraunhofer IBMT have been working on together with project partners by developing, manufacturing, integrating and experimentally testing a set of intramuscular and external electrodes and associated controllers.

The scientists have already made some concrete achievements. “We have managed to reduce muscle tremors significantly in trials with patients,” explains Andreas Schneider-Ickert, project manager for active implants and innovation manager.

The system is part of the EU-funded joint project “EXTEND.” A total of nine project partners from five different countries are working together to develop a versatile platform of distributed neural interfaces. The technology will be able to help people with neuromuscular disorders, such as tremors, or symptoms of paralysis. Even people with spinal cord injuries could benefit from this. The technology uses external controllers to link the implanted electrodes into an intelligent network. The components communicate with each other wirelessly, exchange data, detect muscle signals and send targeted stimuli into the muscles. Implanted systems are already being used medically to provide stimulation, but the current methods require complex surgical operations that are considerably stressful for patients.

Implants for the human-machine interface
A key element of EXTEND is the implants, which are made from biocompatible platinum-iridium and silicone and are injected into the muscle through a catheter. Just three centimeters long and barely a millimeter in diameter, the tiny implant has an electrode at each end that functions as either a sensor or an actuator. External electrodes sewn into a textile ribbon supply the module with energy. This sends pulsed alternating current through the muscle tissue to the implant. “What’s innovative about this is not only the intelligent interplay between control electronics, sensors and actuators, but also the principle of modulating the alternating current to transmit data,” explains Schneider-Ickert.

Once it has been implanted and started, the sensors register the first signs of muscle tremors and pass the information on to the external components. The controller evaluates the data and sends signals through the textile electrodes to stimulate the muscle. This closes a control circuit of intelligently networked sensor and actuator components that counteracts the tremor.

The stimulus signal is not strong enough to trigger a muscle contraction directly. It is the nervous system that plays the decisive role here. This registers the stimulation in the muscle tissue and responds by stopping the commands that trigger the muscle tremor. At least that is the theory — the finer details of the relationship between tremors and signals from the nervous system are yet to be researched. “In clinical trials, however, our method is working astonishingly well. Initial trials have shown that providing the patient with stimuli for one or two hours is enough to reduce tremor symptoms for a longer period of time,” says Schneider-Ickert.

Since tremors often occur in both arms and both legs, implants can be injected and external textile electrodes placed in all the affected muscle groups. This creates a distributed sensor network. The controllers can keep track of all the implanted and external electrodes at the same time and control them in coordination with each other. All this happens in real time, with the person experiencing no delay at all.

The technology being developed in the EXTEND joint project is just as functional as conventional implant systems, but minimally invasive and therefore easier to accept and better for everyday use. The basic concept originates from a Spanish project partner. Based in this concept, the researchers at Fraunhofer IBMT designed the electrodes and implantable components and produced and integrated them in the in-house cleanroom. The scientists have 25 years of expertise in neuroprosthetics and active implants.

Exoskeletons to prevent paraplegia
For tremor patients, EXTEND brings them the hope that their symptoms can be alleviated considerably. However, the technology platform could also help people with spinal cord injuries thanks to motorized exoskeletons. This is a possible because, in cases of paralysis, the nerve fibers are often not completely cut off. They can still transmit stimuli from the brain, albeit very weakly. The sensors register the activity and transmit it to the controller, which analyzes all the signals, works out what movement the person wants to perform and activates exactly the right prostheses to support the muscles in executing the movement.

Following initial successful tests, the concepts and technologies used in EXTEND have been steadily developed, miniaturized, optimized and subjected to further implementation studies. As a result, the project has now been completed with a successful proof of concept of the miniaturized full system in humans. Fraunhofer IBMT will use the knowledge gained from EXTEND to further develop its expertise in the field of neuromuscular and neural interfaces.

Researchers have developed next-generation smart textiles – incorporating LEDs, sensors, energy harvesting, and storage – that can be produced inexpensively, in any shape or size, using conventional industrial looms used to make the clothing worn every day.
 
An international team, led by the University of Cambridge, have previously demonstrated that woven displays can be made at large sizes, but these earlier examples were made using specialised manual laboratory equipment. Other smart textiles can be manufactured in specialised microelectronic fabrication facilities, but these are highly expensive and produce large volumes of waste.

However, the team found that flexible displays and smart fabrics can be made much more cheaply, and more sustainably, by weaving electronic, optoelectronic, sensing and energy fibre components on the same industrial looms used to make conventional textiles. Their results, reported in the journal Science Advances, demonstrate how smart textiles could be an alternative to larger electronics in sectors including automotive, electronics, fashion and construction.

Despite recent progress in the development of smart textiles, their functionality, dimensions and shapes have been limited by current manufacturing processes.
“We could make these textiles in specialised microelectronics facilities, but these require billions of pounds of investment,” said Dr Sanghyo Lee from Cambridge’s Department of Engineering, the paper’s first author. “In addition, manufacturing smart textiles in this way is highly limited, since everything has to be made on the same rigid wafers used to make integrated circuits, so the maximum size we can get is about 30 centimetres in diameter.”

“Smart textiles have also been limited by their lack of practicality,” said Dr Luigi Occhipinti, also from the Department of Engineering, who co-led the research. “You think of the sort of bending, stretching and folding that normal fabrics have to withstand, and it’s been a challenge to incorporate that same durability into smart textiles.”
Last year, some of the same researchers showed that if the fibres used in smart textiles were coated with materials that can withstand stretching, they could be compatible with conventional weaving processes. Using this technique, they produced a 46-inch woven demonstrator display.

Now, the researchers have shown that smart textiles can be made using automated processes, with no limits on their size or shape. Multiple types of fibre devices, including energy storage devices, light-emitting diodes, and transistors were fabricated, encapsulated, and mixed with conventional fibres, either synthetic or natural, to build smart textiles by automated weaving. The fibre devices were interconnected by an automated laser welding method with electrically conductive adhesive.
 
The processes were all optimised to minimise damage to the electronic components, which in turn made the smart textiles durable enough to withstand the stretching of an industrial weaving machine. The encapsulation method was developed to consider the functionality of the fibre devices, and the mechanical force and thermal energy were investigated systematically to achieve automated weaving and laser-based interconnection, respectively.

The research team, working in partnership with textile manufacturers, were able to produce test patches of smart textiles of roughly 50x50 centimetres, although this can be scaled up to larger dimensions and produced in large volumes.
 
“These companies have well-established manufacturing lines with high throughput fibre extruders and large weaving machines that can weave a metre square of textiles automatically,” said Lee. “So when we introduce the smart fibres to the process, the result is basically an electronic system that is manufactured exactly the same way other textiles are manufactured.”
The researchers say it could be possible for large, flexible displays and monitors to be made on industrial looms, rather than in specialised electronics manufacturing facilities, which would make them far cheaper to produce. Further optimisation of the process is needed, however.

“The flexibility of these textiles is absolutely amazing,” said Occhipinti. “Not just in terms of their mechanical flexibility, but the flexibility of the approach, and to deploy sustainable and eco-friendly electronics manufacturing platforms that contribute to the reduction of carbon emissions and enable real applications of smart textiles in buildings, car interiors and clothing. Our approach is quite unique in that way.”

The research was supported in part by the European Union and UK Research and Innovation.

In a new study, North Carolina State University researchers found they could separate blended cotton and polyester fabric using enzymes – nature’s tools for speeding chemical reactions. Ultimately, they hope their findings will lead to a more efficient way to recycle the fabric’s component materials, thereby reducing textile waste. However, they also found the process need more steps if the blended fabric was dyed or treated with chemicals that increase wrinkle resistance.

“We can separate all of the cotton out of a cotton-polyester blend, meaning now we have clean polyester that can be recycled,” said the study’s corresponding author Sonja Salmon, associate professor of textile engineering, chemistry and science at NC State. “In a landfill, the polyester is not going to degrade, and the cotton might take several months or more to break down. Using our method, we can separate the cotton from polyester in less than 48 hours.”
 
According to the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency, consumers throw approximately 11 million tons of textile waste into U.S. landfills each year. Researchers wanted to develop a method of separating the cotton from the polyester so each component material could be recycled.

In the study, researchers used a “cocktail” of enzymes in a mildly acidic solution to chop up cellulose in cotton. Cellulose is the material that gives structure to plants’ cell walls. The idea is to chop up the cellulose so it will “fall out” out of the blended woven structure, leaving some tiny cotton fiber fragments remaining, along with glucose. Glucose is the biodegradable byproduct of degraded cellulose. Then, their process involves washing away the glucose and filtering out the cotton fiber fragments, leaving clean polyester.
 
“This is a mild process – the treatment is slightly acidic, like using vinegar,” Salmon said. “We also ran it at 50 degrees Celsius, which is like the temperature of a hot washing machine.
“It’s quite promising that we can separate the polyester to a clean level,” Salmon added. “We still have some more work to do to characterize the polyester’s properties, but we think they will be very good because the conditions are so mild. We’re just adding enzymes that ignore the polyester.”

They compared degradation of 100% cotton fabric to degradation of cotton and polyester blends, and also tested fabric that was dyed with red and blue reactive dyes and treated with durable press chemicals. In order to break down the dyed materials, the researchers had to increase the amount of time and enzymes used. For fabrics treated with durable press chemicals, they had to use a chemical pre-treatment before adding the enzymes.

“The dye that you choose has a big impact on the potential degradation of the fabric,” said the study’s lead author Jeannie Egan, a graduate student at NC State. “Also, we found the biggest obstacle so far is the wrinkle-resistant finish. The chemistry behind that creates a significant block for the enzyme to access the cellulose. Without pre-treating it, we achieved less than 10% degradation, but after, with two enzyme doses, we were able to fully degrade it, which was a really exciting result.”

Researchers said the polyester could be recycled, while the slurry of cotton fragments could be valuable as an additive for paper or useful addition to composite materials. They’re also investigating whether the glucose could be used to make biofuels.

“The slurry is made of residual cotton fragments that resist a very powerful enzymatic degradation,” Salmon said. “It has potential value as a strengthening agent. For the glucose syrup, we’re collaborating on a project to see if we can feed it into an anaerobic digester to make biofuel. We’d be taking waste and turning it into bioenergy, which would be much better than throwing it into a landfill.”

The study, “Enzymatic textile fiber separation for sustainable waste processing,” was published in Resources, Environment and Sustainability. Co-authors included Siyan Wang, Jialong Shen, Oliver Baars and Geoffrey Moxley. Funding was provided by the Environmental Research and Education Foundation, Kaneka Corporation and the Department of Textile Engineering, Chemistry and Science at NC State.