From the Sector

The partnership between Filo and C.L.A.S.S., the international eco-hub founded by Giusy Bettoni, is renewed once again .
 
At the 63rd edition of Filo, “Sustainability from A to Z” — the service created by Filo in collaboration with C.L.A.S.S. and aimed at companies that want to navigate the complex world of sustainability — chooses to focus its showcase on the concept of responsible innovation and the means to expand its knowledge through technical insights, case histories, and direct testimonies. The ultimate goal, shared by Filo and C.L.A.S.S., is to support the industry and the market in making conscious choices that align with the evolving market landscape. In this regard, the proposals that C.L.A.S.S. brings to Filo as part of “Sustainability from A to Z” are closely linked to the debates and discussions taking place in the “Dialoghi di Confronto”, since they provide an additional opportunity for further insight.
 
In the space dedicated to C.L.A.S.S. at the 63rd edition of Filo, projects and solutions implemented by organizations and companies selected by C.L.A.S.S. will be showcased. This season, the focus will be on “green chemistry” and the role of “advanced” natural fibers, particularly in relation to cotton and linen. For the two fibers, companies have often adopted comprehensive innovation strategies, leading to what we define as “advanced” productions, where traceability processes have become an essential requirement.
 
In the C.L.A.S.S. space at Filo63, Cotton is represented by Supima®, a high-quality cotton grown in the United States, accounting for less than 1% of global cotton production. What makes it special compared to other types of cotton is its extra-long staple, which provides superior strength, softness, and long-lasting colour retention. To ensure the authenticity and traceability of its cotton, Supima® has introduced the AQRe™ Project (Authenticated Quality and Responsible Engagement). This cutting-edge system replaces the previous licensing program, offering a blockchain-based digital platform in collaboration with TextileGenesis™, allowing real-time monitoring of the entire supply chain. Additionally, Supima® partners with Oritain™ to conduct forensic testing, verifying the cotton’s origin at every stage of production. This advanced combination of technologies guarantees that every product bearing the SUPIMA® brand is made from high-quality American-grown cotton, meeting the market’s increasing demand for transparency and sustainability.
 
Regarding Linen, the Alliance for European Flax-Linen & Hemp will be present, the European agro-industrial organization that brings together all actors in the European Flax and Hemp supply chain starting from its fields origin.  2025 is the year of acceleration its sustainable transformation trajectory from the field to the finished product. New developments to be seen:  

• Evolution of its Flax- Linen certifications  
• Launch of a new digital Flax-Linen traceability platform: Flax-Linen traceability platform. European Certified fibres to Retaildeveloped in cooperation with   TextileGenesis - Lectra and set to launch in May 2025. This innovative blockchain-based digital tool enables tracking at every stage of production, ensuring authenticity and full transparency throughout the entire supply chain
• Publication of datasets and development of a specific B2B tool for calculating environmental footprint
• Scientific validation of the functional properties of Flax-Linen
• New Flax-Linen & Hemp sourcing platform for innovative materials and textile & technical solutions

At the C.L.A.S.S. space an Italian story about “green chemistry” will showcase featuring REVECOL® by ERCA Textile Chemical Solutions. REVECOL ® is a revolutionary 100% Made in Italy innovation that utilizes critical waste materials, such as exhausted vegetable cooking oil, transforming it into a next-generation line of safe, certified, high-performance, and competitive chemical auxiliaries designed for the entire textile industry. This unique approach allows for a CO₂ emissions reduction of up to 72% compared to traditional chemistry, setting a new industry standard. The range includes 18 auxiliaries certified according to GRS, RCS, ZDHC, bluesign®, and GOTS, ensuring high performance with a reduced environmental impact. REVECOL® is the missing certified end-to-end element that can drive sustainability, circularity, and performance in the fashion creation process, meeting the needs of a market increasingly focused on traceability and environmental responsibility.
 
Throughout Filo63, the C.L.A.S.S. team will be available to explore these innovations in depth with companies and professionals eager to gain insight into the three pioneering realities redefining sustainability, traceability, and innovation in the textile sector.

ZDHC announced the publication of the Recycled Polyester Guidelines V1.0 and Industry Standard Implementation Approach V1.0.

The use of recycled polyester has grown increasingly, growing by 3.5% to 8.9 million tonnes in 2023. In order to support the fashion industry with a framework for sustainable chemical management in the production process for bottle-to-textile and textile-to-textile recycling processes, ZDHC has developed these transformative guidelines.

Objective:
The document sets requirements, across three chapters, for recycled polyester manufacturers on key chemicals used in recycled polyester processes, the recovery and reuse of these chemicals, safe chemical storage and handling, worker safety and the environmental impacts of commercially viable processes on wastewater, air and sludge.

Chapter 1
Input management covers bottle/textile feedstock and chemicals used as inputs in recycled polyester production.

Chapter 2
Process management covers best practices, including chemical recovery, safe storage and handling of chemicals for worker safety.

Chapter 3
Output management covers emissions from wastewater, sludge and air from the production of recycled polyester fibre.
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‍Expectations by ZDHC:
Brands should share these guidelines with their relevant suppliers and build in the request to implement these guidelines into their strategy and policies.
Suppliers should study these guidelines and take relevant actions to ensure implementation.
Solution providers should review the test methods and limits detailed in the guidelines.

Utilizing renewable materials* and formaldehyde-free chemistries, the industry-first Archroma NTR Printing System combines newly created pigment black and customized auxiliaries for enhanced sustainability, comfort and durability
 
Archroma, a company in specialty chemicals towards sustainable solutions, introduced the NTR Printing System to make bio-based pigment printing commercially possible for the first time. Based on renewable raw materials and designed for safer chemistry, it helps apparel and textile brands reduce their environmental footprint while producing brilliant black shades on garments that deliver both comfort and durability.

Bio-based pigment printing is an emerging technology that is attracting major interest from brands that want to use pigments derived from natural sources, such as plants, in the production of environmentally conscious textiles. Until now, however, bio-based pigments have not delivered color fastness that is comparable to synthetic pigments, and color quality and production performance have not been sufficient to support commercial-scale production.

Archroma’s NTR Printing System is the first to utilize renewable feedstock across pigment dispersion, binder and fixing agent. Crucially, it ensures good wet-rubbing and dry-rubbing fastness, with outstanding softness on all kinds of fabrics. Furthermore, it is suitable for most popular application technologies, including printing, coating and continuous pigment dyeing, with outstanding runnability for production efficiency.

“These properties make the new NTR Printing System ideal for the highly competitive denim market, where sustainability, comfort and durability are important; for knits, where very soft handfeel is essential; and on babywear, where both exceptional softness and safety are required,” Joaquin Femat, Market Segment Director for Printing, Archroma, said.

The result of more than two years of research and development, the innovative new NTR Printing System required Archroma to create customized binding and fixing agents to ensure fastness for the pigment black dispersion comparable to current petroleum-based printing systems. All three printing elements are partially based on renewable feedstock to reduce reliance on non-renewable petrochemicals. Archroma also developed the new system to avoid toxic input streams and impurities, including formaldehyde. Two successful bulk trials were conducted with Textprint S. A. and Jeanologia.

The NTR printing system comprises the following highly efficient and robust printing elements:

• PRINTOFIX® BLACK NTR-TF: A non-gelling pigment black with 79% renewable carbon content*, designed for use in textile applications with no impact on fastness levels.
• HELIZARIN® NTR-SS: A formaldehyde-free super-soft binder with 40% renewable carbon content, designed to ensure very good overall fastness levels.
• LUPRINTOL® FIXING AGENT NTR-HF: A formaldehyde-free fixing agent with 40% renewable carbon content**, designed for high wet fastness in rubbing and laundry.

All three elements are currently being evaluated for compliance with globally accepted standards like bluesign®, the Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) and Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals (ZDHC). The system also supports major industry restricted substances list (RSL) requirements.

bluesign and SCTI donate the Sustainable Chemistry Index (SCI) Methodology to ZDHC aiming to advance sustainable chemistry within the textile industry. This collaboration aims to revolutionize chemical management in the textile, leather and fashion industries, while addressing environmental impact in a holistic manner.

For decades, the use of hazardous chemicals in clothing has been a major challenge. Despite industry efforts with numerous overlapping standards and voluntary schemes - the textile, leather and fashion industries struggle with varying regulations, inconsistent data and a lack of common action. Inconsistent regulations, limited transparency, and little coordinated action hinder progress, while consumers do not receive information about the overall environmental impact of these industries.

Leading organizations in the textile sector are elevating the conversation to tackle these issues head-on with converging assessment tools.

SCTI, a group of innovative and pioneering chemical manufacturers, aims to bring positive change to the textile industry and make sustainable chemistry the norm. bluesign has extensive experience in ensuring safe and responsible chemical management, environmental and worker safety as well as resource efficiency in the production of textiles. The ZDHC Foundation, driven by major fashion brands, is on a mission to detox the fashion industry by providing tools and guidelines for sustainable chemical management.
The Start of the Sustainable Chemistry Index (SCI):
In 2022, SCTI and bluesign announced the development of the first comprehensive Sustainable Chemistry Index (SCI) for the textile industry. The pioneering work leverages best available technologies, while transcending existing chemical assessments, and introduces a one-stop-shopping tool for a broader assessment of environmental impact. Such an approach was missing. Now, the SCI introduces a standard common language for convergence and alignment throughout global textile.

The SCI brings new parameters to assess how chemical products improve resource utilisation in the processes they are used along the life cycle of a garment. Key building blocks include supply chain transparency, responsible sourcing, feedstock reducing fossil dependency, product carbon footprint, resource consumption, efficiency in use during textile production, end use impact and end-of-life of consumer applications. This transparent framework makes it easier for the industry to evaluate the sustainability impact of chemicals present in a garment and promote circularity.

A Collaborative Donation to Advance the Industry:
To advance and foster industry-wide collaboration, SCTI and bluesign are donating, the SCI to ZDHC as the cornerstone of its Chemicals to Zero (CTZ-A) program. CTZ-A represents the highest level of sustainable chemistry within ZDHC. In 2024, the SCI content will undergo ZDHC's stakeholder engagement and consultation processes, aiming to enhance the Roadmap to Zero Program by addressing sustainability and circularity. ZDHC will make the SCI content freely available to the public, enabling widespread adoption and impact.

The ZDHC program is well-positioned to complement the expertise of bluesign and SCTI and to scale its impact within a multistakeholder structure. This collaboration empowers manufacturers and brands to make informed, responsible choices in terms of chemicals and processes, committing to sustainable chemistry and benefiting society.

Stahl has published its 2023 Environmental, Social and Governance (ESG) Report. The report outlines Stahl's recent progress on its ESG Roadmap to 2030 and the steps the company is taking to live its purpose of Touching lives, for a better world.

Stahl’s ESG Roadmap to 2030 includes interim targets for 2023, making this a year in which Stahl reached several important milestones. For example, the company reduced its scope 1 and 2 greenhouse gas (GHG) emissions by 22% versus 2022. Furthermore, in 2023 the Science Based Targets initiative (SBTi) validated Stahl's scope 1, 2 and 3 targets, making it one of the first coatings companies on the SBTi-approved list.

To reduce its GHG emissions, Stahl is actively increasing its use of clean energy. At the end of 2023, renewable energy generation, such as solar panels, had been installed at four Stahl sites, compared to its target of three.

Measuring – and reducing – the impact of products is an important step in the company’s scope 3 emissions. As such, 353 Stahl products now have either life cycle assessment (LCA) or product carbon footprint (PCF) data, far exceeding the 2023 target of 50.
 
New ratings and certifications
In 2023, 2,161 of Stahl's products were certified by Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals (ZDHC), in line with ZDHC MRSL V3.1. These products represented 70% of the company’s sales revenue, demonstrating increased demand for coatings with a lower risk to health and the environment.

Stahl was also proud to achieve a Platinum rating from EcoVadis for the second year in a row, which places it in the top 1% of companies evaluated. Stahl also exceeded its 2023 target of an average EcoVadis rating of at least 60/100 for their top ten suppliers, with an average rating of 68/100 reported in December 2023.
Fostering a safe and welcoming work environment

A core pillar of Stahl’s ESG approach is how it supports its employees’ physical and mental well-being. The 2023 ESG Report outlines several examples of this commitment, such as improvement in its key safety KPIs for the third year in a row.

Besides keeping people safe, Stahl continues to make progress in fostering an open and inclusive workplace. For example, in support of diversity, equity and inclusion (DEI), Stahl appointed its first female leadership team member, trained 98% of its staff in DEI and established DEI committees at all Stahl sites. In addition, to strengthen communication, engagement and collaboration across the workforce, Stahl also established an internal workplace hub, MyStahl.

The announcement of a new effluent treatment plant (ETP) marks a milestone in Denim Expert's journey towards sustainability. This upcoming facility is a testament to the company's dedication to reducing its ecological footprint and safeguarding local ecosystems through advanced water management techniques.

The new Effluent Treatment Plant (ETP) being developed by Denim Expert strives for 100% wastewater recycling. As the ETP rises from concept to reality, Denim Expert embarks on a transition towards its next horizon: aligning with the Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals (ZDHC) Wastewater Guidelines Version 2.0.

Denim Expert's proactive approach to sustainability has been recognized on a global scale. The company has been named 'New Champion' by the World Economic Forum and has partnered with organizations such as the Sustainable Apparel Coalition (SAC), the United Nations Framework Convention on Climate Change (UNFCCC), and the Ellen MacArthur Foundation's Jeans Redesign program. As one of the first factories to join the Partnership for Cleaner Textile (PaCT) and in the process of implementing the 3E program, Denim Expert is dedicated to achieving 100% water reuse and full reliance on solar energy, further solidifying its commitment to driving positive environmental change.

OETI, a Member of TESTEX Group, is an official ZDHC Approved Solution Provider under the ZDHC Roadmap to Zero Programme. Expanding beyond its existing role as a ZDHC Approved MRSL Certification Body for OEKO-TEX® ECO PASSPORT around the globe, OETI now offers comprehensive ZDHC training services in India.

The ZDHC (Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals) Roadmap to Zero Programme drives sustainable chemical management in the global textile, apparel, leather, and footwear sectors. OETI's ZDHC training services empower brands, manufacturers, and other ZDHC stakeholders to master sustainable chemical management, adopting ZDHC guidelines, platforms, and solutions.

This programme delivers a comprehensive understanding of chemical management systems (CMS) and their practical implementation within the textile and leather industries. Targeting various organisational departments, including management, chemical teams, procurement, compliance, and sustainability, this training fosters collaboration within the departments regarding sustainable chemical management.

ERCA, Patagonia® and YKK announce the implementation of ERCA’s REVECOL®, a sustainable, innovative chemical agent, in YKK’s dyeing processes at their Vietnam production sites transforms common waste material, such as exhausted vegetable cooking oil, into an upcycled, certified high performance, safe textile chemical. ERCA has invested in circular practices to take waste material and use them as feedstocks to create new responsible chemical products.

Always searching for new sustainable innovations, REVECOL® caught the attention of Patagonia®. Driven by the goal to utilize non-extractive chemistry in their supply chain wherever possible, the brand teamed up with ERCA and trim supplier YKK to deploy REVECOL®.

REVECOL® LV-TS has a carbon footprint that is 72% lower* than the more conventional chemical auxiliaries produced by ERCA. Today ERCA produces a wide range of high-performance chemical auxiliaries made from used vegetable oil that are ZDHC, bluesign® approved and GRS certified.

ERCA is one of the first companies to have GRS certified chemical products, opening the door to circular chemical auxiliaries.

As part of their Sustainability Vision 2050, YKK is constantly working to deploy more sustainable chemical processes in their production. The ability to replace a commonly used dye chemical with a lower impact version was a no-brainer for YKK’s Vietnam management. REVECOL® is not only more sustainable, it is also more efficient, reducing the use of the dyeing auxiliary by 20% to 30%, thus  helping to lower YKK’s overall chemical usage.

* bluesign® Product Carbon Footprint Report

January, 3rd, ZDHC announced the release of the updated ZDHC Man-Made Cellulosic Fibres (MMCF) Guidelines Version 2.0, and its supporting document. By publishing these documents the industry shall be pushed forward increasingly innovative and sustainable fibre production.

The ZDHC MMCF Guidelines V2.0 now include the Responsible Fibre Production Guidelines, Wastewater Guidelines and Air Emissions Guidelines as three separate chapters in a single document.

Fibres are key components of production processes in the textile and fashion value chain and it is crucial to reduce the environmental impact of their manufacture. ZDHC guidelines give suppliers producing MMCF unified criteria for measuring output indicators like wastewater, sludge, air emissions and other process-related parameters.

Among other changes, this update reflects the expansion of the scope to accommodate Viscose Filament Yarn, Lyocell, Cuprammonium Rayon (Cupro) and Cellulose Acetate (Acetate). The ZDHC Man-Made Cellulosic Fibres (MMCF) Guidelines V2.0 provide an aligned approach for included fibres, including defined chemical recovery, wastewater and sludge discharge, and air emission discharge.

ZDHC continues to advocate for the improvement of processes which minimise emissions while also working towards the recovery of input substances and by-products. These dual goals, reduction and recovery, directly address the negative impact of outputs arising from MMCF production.

ZDHC MMCF Guidelines Industry Standard Implementation Approach Version 2.0: Additional Industry Support for Implementation
Along with the ZDHC Man-Made Cellulosic Fibres (MMCF) Guidelines V2.0, ZDHC has also updated its ZDHC MMCF Guidelines Industry Standard Implementation Approach. This document aims to support the implementation process of the ZDHC MMCF Guidelines V2.0, and features new implementation timelines that assist suppliers in setting their goals to achieve Foundational, Progressive or Aspirational Level on the ZDHC Supplier Platform.

In this year's "Hot Button Report" released by environmental NGO Canopy, Kelheim Fibres has once again achieved a top position with a dark green/green shirt and was able to improve its overall ranking by another 1.5 points compared to the previous year.

The Hot Button Report thus confirms the viscose speciality fibre manufacturer's leadership role when it comes to conserving Ancient and Endangered Forests. Kelheim Fibres has once again increased the proportion of FSC®-certified pulp in its production and confirmed in an audit that its supply chain is low-risk of sourcing from Ancient and Endangered Forests.

The company achieves top points in the areas of chemical management and transparency. As a member of the non-profit organisation ZDHC (Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals), Kelheim Fibres supports the goal of completely eliminating harmful substances from the textile value chain.