From the Sector

Miles Johnson and Creative Room™ designed a capsule collection “Light on the Land”, for men and women to showcase ISKO™’s R- TWO™ program.

As the world’s leading ingredient denim brand, ISKO™ is at the forefront of the sustainable and responsible fashion movement. ISKO™, who loves to partner with likeminded designers, brands and retailers in the  industry that have a passion for Responsible Innovation™, is proud to announce its partnership with renowned British fashion designer Miles Johnson. Together they have created a visionary collection that will be launched at a private showing event on September 12th, at the Fremin Gallery in New York City.

For those who love denim and cherish the planet, this partnership is a perfect match as  Miles is known for prioritizing sustainability and responsibility in his work. Miles has held leadership positions such as Design Director at Levi Strauss & Co. and Senior Creative Director of Product Design and Development at Patagonia, Inc., where he served as a pioneer in creating clothing using sustainably sourced materials. For this capsule collection, Miles worked side by side with ISKO™’s Research & Development team utilizing the ISKO R-TWO™ program which combines a mix of reused and recycled materials. The reused cotton comes from ISKO™’s own production loss, which they continuously track and trace. This has the CCS (Content Claim Standard) certification. They combine this reused cotton with recycled polyester derived from PET bottles. Depending on the content, fabrics can have the RCS (Recycled Claim Standard) certification or GRS (Global Recycled Standard) certification.

The creative direction for the collection takes form with “Light on the Land” and the whole collection is made using low impact materials and responsible finishing techniques. Miles and the ISKO™ team carefully crafted 34 designs at the Creative Room™ in Italy. The styles incorporate responsible design principles which include:

• Minimal washing;
• Removable trims made of eco-metal;
• Natural based buttons and labels;
• Green bar tacks;
• Embroidered rivets.

Environmental messages are embroidered on six of the pieces, by the artist Giulio Miglietta. The garments are built to last and the more you wear these pieces, the more beautiful they become.

Celebrating 25 years as Asia’s leading trade fair for the interior textiles industry, Intertextile Shanghai Home Textiles opened its doors from 28 – 31 August. Covering seven halls at the National Exhibition and Convention Center, around 1,150 exhibitors from 27 countries and regions displayed their latest products and technologies for the home and contract textiles sectors (2018: 1,091).

Exhibitor highlights from 2019

•    Country and region pavilions from Belgium, Pakistan, Taiwan and Turkey
•    Expanded finished products zone: more sourcing options were available in hall 8.1 this year for finished products and a range of home décor items.
•    Finished curtain zone located in the North Hall
•    Bed, bath, kitchen and table: suppliers from China were joined by exhibitors from Australia, Austria, Denmark, Hungary, Japan and elsewhere in these product categories.
•    Whole-home and editor zones: buyers could source the latest luxury branded products and gain decoration concept inspiration in these high-end zones.
•    Textile design zone: 20 design studios from 12 countries including China, Finland, France, India, Japan, Korea, the Netherlands, Portugal, Switzerland and the UK showcased their avant-garde collections.

Able to offer an alchemy of design and sustainable features, Iluna Group with ROICA™ by Asahi Kasei join the latest edition of Première Vision with a range of developments capable of combining innovation, aesthetics and quality. "Ethical" lace and stockings, where quality standards go hand in hand with fashion content, respecting both the environment and humans, an offer already selected among the protagonists of the Sustainable Thinking Exhibition of the Salvatore Ferragamo Museum, for its value in the field of responsible innovation.

Visitors will discover the unique Black Label range: new Ultralight multicolor laces including Jacquardtronic, Textronic and raschels up to 12 colors with a 3D effect. The match between expectations of brands and retailers are met always keeping as a priority the contemporary design, that is integrated to unique strategy committed to responsibility both at corporate and product level.

• Circularity at the centre

PG DENIM, the designer project by Paolo Gnutti, is ready for several important events scheduled for the autumn with ground-breaking interpretations and a new – increasingly green – business model. The occasion is its participation in the Blue Zone at Munich Fabric Start (Munich, 3-5 September 2019), a space which is increasingly often reserved for companies and projects with a high innovation rate in the world of denim.

PG DENIM at the German exhibition will be presenting important product innovations, but most notably new concepts developed for the S/S 2021 season. The focus here is on circularity, seen from a dual perspective: the product with the no longer traditional alternation of seasons, and a sustainabilityoriented approach.

Seasons meet

The new PG DENIM approach is geared towards overlapping seasonality, with less and less marked separations between projects dedicated to the spring-summer and fall-winter lines. The collections by PG DENIM can thus be increasingly defined as a “mix of products without seasonality”. Its focal points are innovation alongside the concept behind the initial idea, as opposed to just the season. This trend, explains Paolo Gnutti, CEO and R&D Head at PG DENIM, is also due to registering the fact that seasonality – in terms of environment and trends – is changing at an increasingly rapid pace. As a response to this situation, the choice has been made to design new collections starting from macro-trends and presenting fabrics for garments which are “easy to wear”, suitable for both warm and cold temperatures, in a true melting pot  of weights and sizes.

The lines for the previous season are thus reintroduced and restyled playing with weights and sizes, within a range where flock meets ultra-light fabric bases, or where vinyl is combined with typically summer weights which shift the fabric towards the world of “paper” with crispy touches, resulting in extraordinarily lightweight and strong items at the same time. Also the GARAGE DENIM has been upgraded with fluid and smoothed touched for garments which are easy to wear and have a strong personality.

Partnership with The Denim Window

The PG DENIM season is also enhanced by its partnership in The Denim Window project, which has resulted in a limited series of Creative Capsule Collections, derived from the idea of bringing together companies which had already worked or were working together, trying to highlight – through small capsule collections – the best of what had already been produced by traditional businesses. This has resulted  in three trailblazing capsules, two of which designed in partnership by PG DENIM and companies the likes of M&J Group, Cadica and Greenwear. Several copies of these collections have been made to travel the world, and – after the official presentation in July – they will have a special corner, The Denim Window, in the Bluezone at Munich Fabric Start.

The “Circular Programme” and the five “Rs” of sustainability

Also the PG DENIM approach to accountability in production processes has been enhanced by implementing the “Circular Programme”. As part of our corporate vision, Italian-style production is combined with compliance with what have become known as “the five Rs”, that is to say key concepts underlying the design and manufacturing model: Reduce (everything you are not using), Repair (everything you can), Reuse (anything available to you), Recycle (all that is left), Respect (everything around you).

This is the philosophy underlying each individual process at PG DENIM, and leading to new specific programmes which have been its business focus over the past few months:

1) Reducing the environmental impact during the fabric dyeing phase in reaction and sulphurbased processes, where the use of chemicals has been reduced by 40%, water consumption by 50% and CO2 emissions by 60%, which has also resulted in better penetration and a better result in the crocking process. This has led to producing 10 new articles which will be launched on the market.

2) Recycling all waste from processing and after use, creating a range of garments where cotton is actually obtained from regenerating these two kinds of waste. In this regard, PG DENIM for now is the only company on the market able to process with a percentage of recycled product exceeding 60% of the total, whereas the average for this kind of manufacturing is generally about 35%.

As regards regular production, on the other hand, PG DENIM follows stringent international standards, including Dtox, Reach and Gots in all its processing phases, also using BCI cottons and the Organic Cotton Standard for raw materials. Last but not least, it was recently awarded the GRS (Global Recycled Standard) certification.

For years, media headlines have declared the death of the high street at the hands of e-commerce. But, while several well-known retailers have indeed shut up shop or cut back on store numbers, a growing number of digitally native brands are investing in bricks-and-mortar spaces to complement and support their online offer.

At the last EuroShop, the World´s No. 1Retail Trade Fairtrade, were already first signs that Pure Player and online start-ups are also increasingly looking offline. 3 years later, at EuroShop 2020 from 16 to 20 February in Düsseldorf, Germany, this will now be one of the major topics of the industry.

In fact, a report published by property firm JLL towards the end of 2018 predicts that online retailers in the U.S. will open 850 stores over the next five years, demonstrating the value these brands place on having a physical presence. “Everyone is saying that physical retail is dying, but online brands are opening at a pretty fast and aggressive rate,” says Taylor Coyne, Research Manager of Retail for JLL, in the report.

Despite the continuing growth in online sales, the majority of consumers still prefer the experience of shopping in-store, and more and more digitally native brands are using physical retail to their advantage.

With the recent launch of Acabada ProActiveWear, the first CBD-infused textiles are officially hitting the market. The fabric treatment behind the CBD-infused textiles was developed by Devan Chemicals, a Belgian company specialized in functional finishes for the worldwide textile markets.

Devan launched its CBD (Cannabidiol) fabric treatment at Heimtextil 2019 in Frankfurt as part of their R-Vital® range of microencapsulated active ingredients. The range contains active substances like Aloe Vera, Q10, Vitamin E, … with CBD being its latest addition. Now, only 8 months later, the first CBD-infused products are hitting the market.

High-quality organic CBD
Born in 2019, Acabada ProActiveWear is the world's first and only CBD-infused activewear brand, committed to creating innovative, luxury apparel for the proactive woman. Conceptualized in New York and produced in Portugal, Acabada infuses luxury fabric with the highest quality organic CBD, to ensure that women will look, feel and perform at their best. Thanks to the close and intense cooperation between Acabada, Devan and the Portuguese production partner, goods were in store in less than five months starting from initial contact.

With over 30 years in the apparel industry, Acabada CEO and Co-Founder Seth Baum recognized the positive effects of CBD on pain and inflammation and the fact that top athletes embrace the active ingredient as a part of their training and recovery ritual. Baum assembled a team of experienced fashion designers, including Co-Founder and CCO Katrina Petrillo, and together they created a high fashion yet innovative product that is primed to disrupt the market. "While typical CBD products such as tinctures and edibles are growing exponentially in popularity, we began to envision a product that addressed health and wellness through a different lens. By physically infusing CBD into our garments, our product live at the intersection of fashion, fitness, and wellness," says Baum. With Acabada ProActiveWear, recovery starts from the moment you get dressed by helping to fight soreness and promote healing before the first squat, lunge or crunch.

Each garment from Acabada ProActiveWear contains up to 25 grams of zero-THC, lab-certified, 99.9% pure CBD, which will allow the benefits to last through 40 high-intensity wear and wash cycles. As customers approach 40 wears and washes, they can choose to sustainably recycle their CBD-infused garments through Acabada's upcycling program, where the recycled, synthetic fabrics will be repurposed where needed as commercial materials.

In addition to launching its new and expanded website, A. Monforts Textilmaschinen GmbH & Co. KG has issued two new publications celebrating the achievements of its major customers.

The first edition of Monforts World of European Textiles profiles a range of companies at the forefront of manufacturing in Europe serving a wide range of end-use markets – from high-end silk and polyamide fabrics for the luxury brands to nonwovens and technical textiles for digital printing, protective clothing, wallcoverings and more.

The seventh edition of Monforts World of Denim meanwhile charts the latest developments from the global market leaders in denim production. Monforts enjoys a global lead in the supply of finishing technology for the denim industry and is currently extremely busy responding to the interest shown at ITMA 2019 in its new CYD yarn dyeing system for this market.

Both publications are now available to download from the new website at: https://www.monforts.de/en/latest-news-media/downloads/

• Order intake in the first• Order intake in the first half of 2019 amounted to CHF 378.3 million, 26% below the previous year period
• At CHF 416.1 million, sales were 19% down on the previous year period
• EBIT of CHF -1.2 million and net profit of CHF -3.8 million
• Implementation of cost-cutting measures proceeding according to plan
• Innovations successfully launched at ITMA 2019 in Barcelona
• Major order from Egypt signed – worth around CHF 180 million
• Completion of real estate sale in Ingolstadt (Germany) expected in the third quarter 2019
• Outlook unchanged compared to spring 2019

In the first half of 2019, Rieter posted an order intake of CHF 378.3 million (first half year 2018: CHF 511.8 million). This represents a decline of around 26% compared to the previous year period. As already reported, the main reason was low demand in the new machinery business (Business Group Machines & Systems: -34%). Rieter understands that market share remained unchanged at the previous year’s level of around 30%. Order backlog as at June 30, 2019 was CHF 295 million (December 31, 2018: CHF 325 million).

As the role of lingerie in fashion and athleisure continues to augment, the desire for garments that will meet a new set of values for contemporary consumer lifestyles will flourish.  

ROICA™ - the pioneer of innovative stretch fibres, took this year’s Interfilière visitors on an inspirational journey, aimed at encouraging weavers, designers and brands to “engineer” their portfolio of products in new and exciting ways. The company sets a whole new standard in how creativity and responsibility can come together for a new generation of wardrobe solutions dedicated to the contemporary consumer, carving out a new kind of fashion future.

Below some unique developments born from the collaboration among ROICA™ and key premium brands:

COSABELLA produced by Collezioni SRL: The brand sells in over 100 countries, with a premium collection of 2000 styles for every sector of lingerie and leisurewear. Latest styles use a delicate floral lace by Tessitura Colombo Antonio made with ROICA™ V550 belonging to the ROICA Eco-Smart™ family for their more luxurious upscaled lines.

Livy selects Iluna Group’s contemporary graphic stretch lace with ROICA™ EF for the precious “BELLAGIO” line that includes a soft triangle bralette, a padded bra, a brief and a body for optimal comfort. The must-have range has a stunning aesthetic which represents the unique appeal of this lifestyle brand.

Sarah Borghi: the worldwide known brand of luxury Italian fashion hosiery, tights, and socks. They've dedicated more than 40 years scrutinizing the finest yarns and evolving technologies and breathing flawless life into their unique range of luxurious fashion. Today, Gizeta Calze S.r.l., owner of this brand, has developed the first line made out of sustainable ingredients that will be launched at the ROICA™ booth during Interfilière. The collection, developed in Italy by Almatex, blends together key smart fibers such as ROICA™ EF and Q-Nova®, and ROICA™ V550 with  AMNI SOUL ECO®. 

Vitamin A: the Californian brand offers a unique swimwear line rooted in female empowerment. Vitamin A’s beachwear is made with the finest materials and finishes, ensuring a product that will fit and wear beautifully for years to come. Among the  incorporated more sustainable high-performance fabrics shines a unique jacquard development by Maglificio Ripa with a 3D texture made with the GRS certified premium responsible stretch ROICA™ EF and Q-NOVA® by Fulgar. Vitamin A is a member of 1% For The Planet and  donate to environmental organizations who work to protect our oceans.

Wolford was one of the first brands to explore the real value of ROICA™. Known for its exceptional European Skinwear including legwear, lingerie and bodywear, the company has been striving to develop fully degradable items at the end of the product lifecycle. On top of last year’s award for being Cradle to Cradle Certified™ at GOLD Level certification for the biological cycle, Wolford was also recognised for its technical cycle using Econyl® yarn made by Aquafil (always blended with ROICA™ V550).

Each brand Partner brings a different yarn story firmly into the limelight, and all feature ingredients from the ROICA™ portfolio of yarns respecting the company’s commitment to ‘responsible innovation’, and which all boast important sustainable certifications.

A revolutionary new system for yarn dyeing based on the proven Econtrol® dyeing system for fabrics will be introduced by A. Monforts Textilmaschinen GmbH & Co. KG at ITMA 2019 in Barcelona, Spain, from June 20-26.

This latest CYD denim processing technology integrates new functions and processes into the weaving preparatory processes – spinning, direct beaming, warping and assembly beaming, followed by sizing and dyeing – in order to increase quality, flexibility, economic viability and productivity.

“Denim finishing is a field in which Monforts has an undisputed lead and we have been working closely with our many partners in the key denim manufacturing countries of China, Bangladesh, India, Pakistan, Mexico and Brazil to develop new advanced solutions,” says Monforts Head of Denim Hans Gerhard Wroblowski. “The CYD system has been developed in response to a very strong market demand.”