From the Sector

With combined regional, global, and industry specific expertise, the Vietnam International Trade Fair for Apparel, Textiles and Textile Technologies (VIATT) will make its debut from 28 February – 1 March 2024. Following the signing of a memorandum of understanding (MOU) in late March, Messe Frankfurt (HK) Ltd and the Vietnam Trade Promotion Agency (VIETRADE) announced the new international fair for the entire textile value chain. The three-day platform will be staged at the Saigon Exhibition and Convention Center (SECC), Ho Chi Minh City.

Commenting on the new event, Ms Wendy Wen, Managing Director of Messe Frankfurt (HK) Ltd, said: “With Intertextile Apparel in Shanghai a prime example, our Texpertise Network provides the ideal global framework from which to launch this diverse, comprehensive platform for the integrated textile supply chain. VIATT itself will capture the essence of Texpertise in one platform – a diverse, one-stop sourcing event for buyers across all categories, from garments, fabrics, yarns and fibres, to textile machinery, technical textiles and nonwovens, and everything in between.”

Discussing the event’s potential, Mr Le Hoang Tai, Deputy Director General of the Vietnam Trade Promotion Agency (VIETRADE), said: “Vietnam is one of the world’s leading textile producers and exporters, and going from strength to strength as one of Southeast Asia’s manufacturing hubs. Our establishment has many years of experience organising trade fairs throughout Vietnam, and together with Messe Frankfurt we are excited to help international fairgoers unlock the potential of the country’s fast-growing textile market. In addition, Ho Chi Minh City’s accessibility, and Vietnam’s proximity to other leading textile-producing nations such as Bangladesh, Cambodia, China and India, make it the logical venue to host an event of this nature.”

Many international textile manufacturers have been expanding operations into Vietnam, augmenting an already strong domestic industry. According to the Vietnam Textile and Apparel Association (VITAS), the country’s textile and garment industry achieved staggering annual growth of 20 – 26% from 2018 – 2022. Participation in international trade agreements such as the Regional Comprehensive Economic Partnership (RCEP), the Comprehensive and Progressive Agreement for Trans-Pacific Partnership (CPTPP), the EU–Vietnam Free Trade Agreement (EVFTA), and the Indo-Pacific Economic Framework for Prosperity (IPEF)[2], bodes well for future growth.

As one of the world’s biggest importers of textile machinery, and a consistent importer of fabrics, yarns and fibres, garment production is the cornerstone of Vietnam’s industry. The country utilises cotton and functional materials to produce casualwear, childrenswear, swimwear, workwear, and much more, with sportswear an especially fast-growing category, and high-utility garments expected to achieve high exports.

By linking textile players from across Asia, Europe and beyond with this market, VIATT 2024 is willing to play an important part in shaping the future of Vietnam’s industry. Next year’s fair will host an extensive mix of international and domestic exhibitors covering multiple textile sub-sectors, including garments, apparel fabrics and accessories, yarns and fibres, digital printing, home textiles, technical textiles and nonwovens, textile processing, textile machinery, and more.

Exhibitors and buyers can utilise the fair’s global business matchmaking service, where connections are made based on the specific needs of each party. In addition to the fair’s main function as an international trading platform, its fringe programme will facilitate participants’ networking with industry leaders and offer diverse market insights via various seminars, forums, and panel discussions.

The Vietnam International Trade Fair for Apparel, Textiles and Textile Technologies (VIATT) is organised by Messe Frankfurt (HK) Ltd and the Vietnam Trade Promotion Agency (VIETRADE). Covering the entire textile industry value chain, the inaugural edition will be held from 28 February – 1 March 2024 at the Saigon Exhibition and Convention Center (SECC), Ho Chi Minh City.

At ITMA 2023, EFI™ Reggiani is presenting its sustainable Reggiani ecoTERRA pigment printing line up, the high-speed EFI Reggiani HYPER and Reggiani BOLT XS direct-to-fabric printing solutions, and EFI Inèdit end-to-end digital textile workflows.

The EFI Reggiani ecoTERRA solution is an all-in-one solution for water-based pigment printing that requires no ancillary equipment for pre- and post-treatment. By reducing water, energy and chemicals consumption in the overall process, customers can now obtain a sustainable, direct-to-fabric printing solution. For the first time at ITMA, EFI Reggiani is presenting its full ecoTERRA line up of four models, including a 340 printing width, with speeds ranging from 150 to 600 sqm/hour. This allows customers to choose the best TCO/ROI based on output volume and speed range.
 
Reggiani ecoTERRA water-based pigment inks deliver excellent wet and dry fastness properties, sharpness in detail, and durability while also ensuring printhead longevity with reduced maintenance costs. Thanks to the enhanced polymerisation and finishing unit, EFI Reggiani ecoTERRA also provides an enhanced tactile experience and fabric softness.
 
In addition to highlighting EFI Reggiani’s sustainable product offering, the company will also demonstrate the significant productivity and efficiency advantages offered by its portfolio of high-speed, high-performance digital textile printers at ITMA 2023. Attendees will discover how mass production can transition to a digital, on-demand workflow with the high speeds and high print quality of the EFI Reggiani HYPER scanning printer and the next-generation EFI Reggiani BOLT XS single-pass textile printer.

Visitors to the booth also will see EFI Reggiani’s new proprietary end-to-end digital printing workflow and the latest enhancements to EFI Inèdit digital textile software. Inèdit, now part of EFI Reggiani, is one of the leading developers of raster image processors (RIPs) and related software for digital industrial textile printing. The EFI Reggiani end-to-end workflow with Inèdit integration boosts productivity and production capabilities for digital textile print operations while ensuring maximum security for customer’s designs thanks to two-level encryption.
 
EFI Reggiani QUERY, the user-friendly, advanced data analysis tool to measure printer performance, keep track of real costs per metre, and monitor water and energy consumption, will also be demonstrated.

On the occasion of EURATEX’ General Assembly held in Milan on 7 June, the European textile industry  discussed the relationship between innovation, sustainability and people in the industry of tomorrow. EURATEX members welcomed the Textiles Transition Pathway, released on 6 June by the Commission, as a valuable roadmap to ensure a successful green and digital transition. The meeting in Milan was also the occasion to strengthen links with textile machine manufacturers, gathering at ITMA 2023.

Hosted by Sistema Moda Italia (SMI), EURATEX meetings addressed the crucial issue of how to develop new competitive business models for the future, following the Industry 5.0 concept. In 2021, the European Commission launched “Industry 5.0”, which puts the wellbeing of the worker at the centre of the production process and the use of new technologies to provide prosperity beyond jobs and growth, while respecting the production limits of the planet.

The keynote speakers, Francesco Pinto (Chairman, Yamamay) and Claudio Cavacini (Director of Retail Industry Solutions & Strategy, Salesforce), presented how the digital transformation is affecting companies in the retail industry and how they should adapt to maintain their competitive edge. A panel session of textile machinery manufacturers debated how their companies can help delivering this transformation through state of the art machineries. They all agreed that it requires common efforts by all actors and stakeholders along the textile value chain and public support to make the necessary investments. According to Enzo Maurer, ITMA President, ITMA 2023 in Milan will exactly showcase excellence in innovation and new available technologies to make a leap forward in sustainability.

According to Sergio Tamborini, "we are particularly honored to host this event organized by Euratex, the association which is the voice of the European textile industry and its demands, especially those concerning the circular economy. Sistema Moda Italia wants to play its part and there are priorities, from legislation on extended producer responsibility (EPR) in Italy to eco-design, where textiles and clothing will act as a testing ground. SMI's goal will be to continue to encourage the debate on circularity  promoting it in all institutional settings aiming to a growing sustainable  supply chain.”

Alberto Paccanelli, EURATEX President added: “Today’s discussions showed that we are ready to take up new challenges. Nevertheless, this  transition towards a textiles 5.0 can only happen with the support of all actors, from policy makers to retailers. Today’s meeting was also the occasion to review the EU transition pathway for the textiles ecosystem, published yesterday by the European Commission. The pathway is the perfect example of a co-creation process between the European institutions and the stakeholders. We hope that other EU initiatives or legislative proposals will follow the same co-creative process.”

At the 14th edition more than 4,500 visitors from the retail industry gathered in Mumbai from 1 to 3 June to exchange views on the latest products and solutions specifically for the Indian retail market. Exhibitors on over 7,500 m2 demonstrated where the future of the Indian retail sector is headed. This year's event offered new product segments and profiles, bringing the spotlight to sustainability and focusing on the growth of the overall industry.

The Indian retail market is one of the fastest growing retail markets in the world and a key driver for the Indian economy, something that was also reflected by numerous positive conversations where fruitful synergies were created and long-term relationships were established. Appealing retail design, shopper marketing strategies and visual merchandising were the highlights of the exhibits on the show floor. The trade visitors were also distinguished by a high level of decision-making skills and brand experience expertise.

Thomas Schlitt, Managing Director, Messe Düsseldorf India, points out: “We are very delighted with the brilliant response received from the retail industry for In-store Asia 2023. The event has yet again made its mark by bringing together relevant business opportunities for both exhibitors and visitors. In-store Asia 2023 had something for everyone looking to network and learn from peers and associates in the industry. The event has always been a key meeting point for bellwethers, innovators, distributors, brands and retailers. The 2023 edition has been greatly appreciated for the futuristic ideas and solutions presented both on the expo floor as well as through the dialogues at the convention. I am certain that the connections made here will result in great business prospects for all.”

Elke Moebius, Director Retail & Retail Technology at Messe Düsseldorf, also draws a positive conclusion: “In-store Asia has again confirmed its position as a platform for retail innovations, impressive customer journeys, and shopper-focused strategies that stage physical stores as vibrant, appealing shopping destinations that can captivate and thrill shoppers. Everyone attending here could feel this sense of new departures and investment in the Indian retail sector.”

The 3-day event was accompanied by a Convention under the heading “Humanise, Hybridise, Hyper Localise Retail Experience” where more than 30 speakers delivered talks on such topics as retail research, visual merchandising, shopper marketing and design innovations, to name but a few. Another highlight was the presentation of the coveted VM & RD Retail Design Awards, for which India’s top talents from the Retail Design, Visual Merchandising and Manufacturing sectors competed with each other in 23 distinct categories of store design and window display. At the VM Challenge, six teams of visual merchandisers from renowned brands and companies demonstrated the day before how they conceptualise and realise a shop window within one hour under a given theme and design brief.

Sustainable Chemistry for the Textile Industry (SCTI™) and Together for Sustainability (TfS) are teaming up to support and accelerate the leather and textile industry's sustainability journey through sustainable chemistry. Together they will collaborate in driving convergence in standards and methodologies and inspire industry action for a better future.

SCTI is an alliance of leading chemical companies that strives to empower the textile and leather industries to apply sustainable, state-of-the-art chemistry solutions that protect factory workers, local communities, consumers and the environment.

TfS is a member-driven initiative, raising Corporate Social Responsibility (CSR) standards throughout the chemical industry. TfS members are chemical companies committed to making sustainability improvements within their own – and their suppliers’ – operations. TfS has also launched a comprehensive program to foster defossilization of chemical value chains, providing standardization tools to enable effective Scope 3 management based on primary data and launching the TfS Guideline to determine Product Carbon Footprint (PCF).

Both TfS and SCTI share the mission to drive transformational change, and intend to collaborate on advancing the industry’s sustainability goals, leveraging the TfS Scope 3 greenhouse gas emissions (GHG) program.

Trevira CS is exhibiting for the first time at CSI Miami (Cruise Ship Interiors Design Expo Americas). Taking place on 6 – 7 June, 2023 at the Miami Beach Convention Center, CSI will bring together buyers and suppliers involved in cruise ship interiors, including interior designers, architects, outfitters, shipyards and suppliers.
 
On the Trevira CS stand, visitors can get an idea of the wide range of flame retardant fabrics suitable for use on board cruise ships. 53 fabrics from 20 Trevira CS customers will be on display that either have IMO certification and/or have been tested to the fire safety standards (FTP Code) required in the marine sector. Trevira CS fabrics are inherently flame retardant, meaning that their flame retardant properties cannot be washed out or lost through aging or use. This is due to the chemical structure of the polyester fiber: the flame retardant properties are firmly anchored in the fiber and cannot be altered by external influences. A surface-applied flame retardant finish is therefore not necessary.

In the marine sector, the demands placed on textiles are not only high in terms of fire protection, but also with regards to light resistance and durability. This is particularly true for textiles used in outdoor applications. These must be extremely robust, as they are exposed to moisture and sunlight. To meet these requirements, Trevira CS has launched a range of 30 new spun-dyed, UV-stable filament yarns. Besides color depth and durability, spun-dyed yarns offer another advantage: They are more sustainable because the fabrics made from them can be produced in a more environmentally friendly way than textiles that are dyed in one piece or consist of brightly colored yarns. In fabric production, a large share of resource consumption goes to the dyeing and finishing of fabrics as well as the use of chemicals and water. However, with spun-dyed yarns, these processing steps are unnecessary – the yarn immediately comes out of the spinneret in the desired color, reducing the products’ environmental impact.

The topic of sustainability is also taken up in other Trevira CS products. For example, Trevira CS fabrics are available in recycled versions. They consist of fiber and filament yarns obtained in different recycling processes. Filament yarns are produced using recycled PET bottles, they contain 50% post-consumer recycled material. Recycled fibers are obtained using an agglomeration plant and in further processing steps from residual pre-consumer waste from production. They consist of 100% recycled material (pre-consumer recycling). All flame retardant recycled Trevira® products are GRS (Global Recycled Standard) certified.
Fabrics made from these yarns are marked with the Trevira CS eco trademark. The prerequisite for this is a recycled content of at least 50%. Among the fabrics presented at the Trevira CS trade fair stand are 8 fabrics bearing the Trevira CS eco brand.

The long-term goal in developing sustainable products is undoubtedly to enter a circular economy. For this new path, an innovative Trevira CS product development was launched, producing flame retardant fibers and filament yarns from chemically recycled raw material. In this case, the basic raw material for the chemical recycling was PET bottles, but essentially it could be most any other PET recyclables, such as packaging material or even textiles. Chemical recycling involves depolymerization, a sequence of chemical reactions in which the polymer chains are broken down again into their original components, i. e. the monomers. In a further processing step, impurities are removed. Before the polymerization process is initiated, a small amount of MEG (mono ethylene glycol) is added.

The same technology used to produce the original (virgin) raw material for Trevira CS is also used here. The flame retardant modification is added during polymerization. In this way, the flame retardant properties are indelibly anchored in the polymer.

By recycling valuable materials such as packaging material, waste can be avoided. The raw material obtained from the recycling process is comparable to the original material can be used again in high-quality products.

• Project from the Global Organic Textile Standard, European Space Agency and Marple will use AI and satellite imagery to detect organic versus non-organic cotton fields
• Innovative demonstrator project explores the potential of remote monitoring to strengthen integrity and development of organic cotton cultivation
• Project will run across India with first results expected by the end of 2023

In a world first, the Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS), European Space Agency (ESA) and AI company Marple have today launched a new demonstrator project that aims to show the potential for remote satellite monitoring of organic cotton cultivation systems.

The project, to be carried out under ESA’s Business Applications and Space Solutions (BASS) programme, will train artificial intelligence (AI) to use ESA satellite data to detect cotton fields across India and automatically classify them according to their cultivation standard. By integrating standardised yield metrics, this innovative approach will also enable GOTS to generate realistic estimates of organic cotton yields in specific areas.

Integrated with existing GOTS measures, this project will enable GOTS to further enhance the integrity of organic cotton by developing advanced risk assessment technology for organic certification and preventing fraud from the beginning of the supply chain. “It is an honour and very exciting to be a partner in this ESA Demonstration Project, and it is living up to our claim to be pioneers serving the sustainable textile sector to enable continuous improvement. Technologies like this will be a game changer regarding the integrity and promotion opportunities of organic cotton.” says Claudia Kersten, Managing Director of GOTS.

The project's anticipated impact extends beyond identifying certified organic cotton fields. It is expected to also empower GOTS to recognise cotton fields that have not yet obtained organic certification but possess the potential for a seamless transition to organic cultivation, thanks to their utilisation of traditional and ecologically friendly farming practices. This would enable GOTS to bring a greater number of farmers – particularly those of a smaller size – into the certified organic sector and supply chains, creating new economic opportunities for small-scale farmers and their communities while also helping the textile sector to meet growing consumer demand for organic cotton. Guillaume Prigent, Business Development and Partnerships Officer at the European Space Agency, adds: “This project highlights how space solutions can have a positive impact on the world and is the kind of innovation that ESA supports through its Business Applications and Space Solutions programme.”

The project will run across the distinct cotton growing regions in India, with first results expected by the end of 2023.

India project builds on successful Uzbekistan feasibility pilot
The project is co-financed by GOTS and ESA, in collaboration with Marple GmbH, a German software development firm that developed the CoCuRA (Cotton Cultivation Remote Assessment) software with ESA BASS and successfully piloted it in a feasibility project in 2021 in Uzbekistan.

That venture showed how the trained AI was able to accurately differentiate cotton fields from other crops using only satellite images and sensor data, as well as whether the cotton fields were cultivated organically.

This spurred considerable interest from GOTS, which has committed to the development of cutting-edge technologies that can improve the integrity of the organic textile sector, especially cotton. Dr David Scherf, co-founder of Marple, said: “All our projects strive to leverage advanced technology for a positive impact on the environment and society. We are therefore delighted that our CoCuRA technology, which emerged from a moonshot research project, is being applied in a practical and impactful way. We are excited about the opportunity to work with the exceptional team at GOTS and further strengthen our successful partnership with ESA.”

Candour Techtex, a Melegaon JR Group company, is satisfied with the latest coating and lamination line supplied by UK’s Amba Projex and has ordered a second, wider one to meet increasing demand.

Based in High Peak near Manchester, BTMA member Amba Projex has over 40 years’ experience in the design and manufacture of special purpose technical textile machines, with coating and laminating installations around the world.

Amba will be working closely with Candour over the next five years, to establish an Indian technical textiles powerhouse capitalising on the UK technology provider’s long experience in the field.

Formerly Chandni Textiles Engineering Industries, Candour Techtex of the Malegaon JR Group assumed its new name in 2022 to reflect its focus on a wide range of technical textiles at its new plant in Malegaon in the Nashik District of Maharashtra.

The company was founded in 1986 and at its existing plant in Ankleshwar, Gujarat, produces an annual 1.2 million metres of light velvet fabrics mainly for the domestic market for apparel and light home furnishings. In 2020 it also began operations at a plastic moulded components division in Gonde, Nashik, with a capacity of 4,500 tons per annum.

Blackout fabrics
In particular, the new Amba Projex system enables blackout fabrics to be produced efficiently and at scale.

Blackout fabrics are installed in rooms where complete light shielding is required, such as in public institutions like hospitals, and retirement homes, in hotels and conference rooms, and also in the home, especially in bedrooms.

They obtain their light impermeability by a special three-layer blackout coating which works on textiles of all colours. Only the middle layer of the three coatings needs to be black for obtaining the necessary light absorption. The fabrics are usually also treated for permanent flame-retardancy, and also with water or stain-repellent finishes. In addition to locking out light and providing maximum privacy, blackout curtains also help to insulate a home and reduce energy costs, in addition to protecting furniture and carpets from fading due to sunlight exposure.

With four months until the technical textiles and nonwovens show opens its doors, floor space booked by international suppliers is already more than double the area of the previous edition, which attracted 366 exhibitors from eight countries and regions. Taking place from 19 – 21 September 2023 at the Shanghai New International Expo Centre, this year’s fair will see the European Zone return to the fairground. The high-traffic zone is set to welcome a number of new and returning exhibitors eager to showcase their products to a business-hungry domestic market.

Speaking at the fair’s previous edition in 2021, Mr Roberto Galante, Plant Manager of FMMG Technical Textiles (Suzhou) Co Ltd, said: “The Chinese market is a big opportunity for everybody, because every day the market is demanding more. The potential here is incredible, and there is more demand for overseas brands. These brands are known for their very high quality, and while China’s industry has developed very well in the past few years, it still needs support from overseas brands with high quality products. This fair is good for us, and we exhibit here every year.”

Multiple domestic and international exhibitors have confirmed their participation at Cinte Techtextil China 2023, with the European Zone playing host to FMMG and other key industry players, such as:

• Bekaert, Belgium
• Fil Man Made Group, Italy
• SANITIZED, Switzerland
• SCANTECH, France

Outside the European Zone, additional international suppliers will showcase their diverse product applications at the fairground, with categories including Coating & Bondtec (Stahl); Fibre & Yarn (Barnet); Nonwovens Equipment (Dilo); Technology & Machinery (Picanol); and Testing Equipment & Certification (TESTEX). Other European exhibitors in these categories include Autefa Solutions, Reifenhauser Heinsberg, Reifenhauser Reicofil, and SICAM.

Chinese suppliers set to complement international contingent
A comprehensive range of domestic exhibitors are eager to meet new buyers and renew old business connections at this year’s fair, including:

• Shanghai Shenda Kebao New Materials
• SIJIA New Material (Shanghai)
• Zhejiang Jinda New Materials
• Zhejiang Hailide New Material

The fair’s product categories cover 12 application areas, which comprehensively span a full range of potential uses in modern technical textiles and nonwovens. These categories also cover the entire industry, from upstream technology and raw materials providers to finished fabrics, chemicals and other solutions. This scope of product groups and application areas ensures that the fair is an effective business platform for the entire industry.

KARL MAYER GROUP will be presenting a WEFTTRONIC® II G at the ITMA with new features and upgrades for greater efficiency. This warp knitting machine with weft insertion produces lattice structures from high-strength polyester, which are firmly established in the construction industry in particular. With a working width of 213", it offers productivity and further advantages through design innovations. New features include weft thread tension monitoring, management and the new VARIO WEFT laying system. The component for the weft insertion aims at maximum flexibility. It allows the patterning of the weft yarn to be changed quickly and easily electronically, without mechanical intervention during yarn insertion and without limits on repeat lengths. In addition, there is less waste.

The KARL MAYER GROUP also supports its customers with well thought-out Care Solutions. The new support offers include retrofit packages for retrofitting control and drive technology for weft insertion and composite machines, and service packages that bundle various services. These include machine inspections and the replacement of all drive belts. The customer benefits from fixed prices that cover the costs of technician assignments, various discount options and transparent services.

A new solution for the vertical greening of cities is presented from the field of application for technical textiles. The core of the innovation is a grid textile produced on warp knitting machines with weft insertion by KARL MAYER Technische Textilien GmbH. The knitted lattice fabric is made of flax. It is used as a climbing aid for fast-growing plants, and after the greening phase, in autumn, it can be recycled together with these plants as biomass in pyrolysis plants to produce electricity and activated carbon. In summer, the planted sails lower the ambient temperature through evaporation effects. In addition, photosynthesis creates fresh air and binds CO2. Other important advantages are low soil requirements and flexible placement in public spaces. The greening system was developed by the company Micro Climate Cultivation, OMC°C, with the support of KARL MAYER Technische Textilien.

The KARL MAYER GROUP will also be exhibiting a sustainable composite solution made from natural fibres. The reinforcing textile of the innovative lightweight material is a multiaxial non-crimp fabric, which was also produced from the bio-based raw material flax on a COP MAX 4 from KARL MAYER Technische Textilien. The boatbuilding specialist GREENBOATS uses natural fibre composites to achieve sustainable products. The fact that it succeeds in this is shown, for example, by the Global Warming Potential (GWP): 0.48 kg of CO2 per kilogram of flax reinforcement compares with 2.9 kg of CO2 per kilogram of glass textile.