From the Sector

Albeit sustainable fashion cannot escape the general economic malaise, INNATEX at Messecenter Hofheim Rhein-Main demonstrates that the industry continues to work on viable strategies. The fully booked 57th edition of the international trade show for sustainable textiles focuses its supporting program on current discussions within the industry: public relevance and sales of green fashion.

The INNATEX order platform brings the industry’s challenges and possible solutions to center stage in its supporting programme, offering new formats, the premiere of Evolution Stage as well as topics that participants within sustainable fashion must address. Exhibitors include established brands such as Recolution, Dawn Denim, Vaude, Mela, Rotholz, Two Thirds, Reiff und Moea, as well as first-time exhibitors.

“Our trade floor is again booked up, many brands claim crowded appointment schedules – but uncertainty remains.” notes Alexander Hitzel, project manager for INNATEX. “No one knows how the market will develop. But there is one thing we can influence, namely ensuring that INNATEX offers maximum benefit, combining trade recommendations, innovation impulses, tools and space for honest discussion and dialogue“.

INNATEX Evolution Stage: Participating Brands
‘Evolution Stage – Shaping Tomorrow’s Fashion’ brings together brands that combine design, quality and future relevance, presenting them in a concept store setting. Conceived and curated by designer Jonathan Radetz, this format represents economic feasibility, applied synergies and a sales-boosting product range design at the point of sale. Chosen for this premiere are the labels Maatroom, Vidar Sport, Jungle Folk, ZAMT, Halt.Clothing, DeLin and Makesomebodyhappy.

Information and retail recommendations for an industry in turmoil
The further supporting programme picks up on issues and questions which market participants must address to remain fit for the future. These range from AI-supported strategies in the retail fashion trade to long-term developments in design and product conception to the importance of product longevity and brand building to support purchase decisions.

Nonwovens and the 9th Wonder of the World
Palm Jebel Ali – an ambitious artificial archipelago off Dubai’s Jebel Ali coast – is making a high-profile return after years of dormancy, which is good news for the construction industry and for the manufacturers of geotextiles and other engineered nonwovens who will be involved.

Initially launched in 2002, the project was to be a palm-shaped island even larger than its famed sibling, Palm Jumeirah (billed as ‘The 8th Wonder of the World’), but suffered delays and suspension following the global financial crisis of 2008. 

After remaining largely on hold for over a decade, it was formally relaunched in 2023, with construction resuming in 2024 under a revised master plan targeting completion around 2028. 

The renewed vision for Palm Jebel Ali is bolder and more sustainable. At about 13.4 square metres, the island is now designed to be more than twice the size of Palm Jumeirah, adding nearly 100 kilometres of new coastline to Dubai’s map. It includes multiple fronds, interconnected islands, luxury residential units, hotel and resort zones, marinas and extensive waterfront amenities. 

A key aim is to blend high-end living with smarter infrastructure, environmental consciousness and modern urban planning, marking a step beyond the purely spectacle-driven island developments of the past. 

Palm Jumeirah
Completed around 2006/07, Palm Jumeirah required massive engineering works to transform marine seabed into a stable platform for residential, hotel and infrastructure development. Underlying that ambition was a need to manage soil, water and structural stability in a highly demanding environment of waves, tides and fine and sometimes mobile sediments. 

One company heavily involved in this work was INDEX™26 exhibitor Fibertex, as the supplier of engineered fabrics for several of Palm Jumeirah’s containment, separation, drainage and stabilisation functions.

For the breakwater protecting Palm Jumeirah’s outer edge, a specific nonwoven grade was used as a stabilising geotextile. In effect, this fabric was laid between structural rock layers or between rock and sand zones to prevent migration of fine particles, filter subsurface flows, and preserve the intended layering.

In a marine rock-fill breakwater, designers traditionally achieve filtration with graded stone filters alone. That approach is robust but demands precise gradation and thicker sections. A high-strength, puncture-resistant nonwoven delivers the same filter/separator function in a thinner interface, while accommodating differential settlement and allowing free water flow to relieve pore pressures. 

The breakwater itself is substantial – the Palm’s protective seawall runs around 12 kilometres in length and roughly 200 metres wide, forming a barrier that must resist wave and storm action while preventing seabed scour and internal erosion. 

The geotextile layer thus acts as a demarcation/interface between rock armour and the inner sand and gravel fill materials in order to maintain the mechanical integrity of the breakwater and reduce mixing of layers under hydraulic stress. 

The involvement of Fibertex in the project, however, went further various grades of the company’s nonwoven geotextiles were specified for the reclaimed island’s internal infrastructure, including the roads on each frond as well as drainage systems and landscaping.

Landmarks
Nonwoven geotextiles have become one of the most influential yet least recognised technologies shaping the construction of modern landmarks. Through careful control of fibre type, density and bonding method, engineers have created materials that can filter, separate, drain and reinforce in ways once unimaginable. They are now used wherever earth meets infrastructure – between layers of aggregate, behind retaining walls, beneath pavements, along riverbanks and below rail beds. Their dual nature is significant – they are strong enough to withstand immense stresses, yet porous enough to allow water to flow freely.

The idea of using textiles in soil is not new and even the Romans stabilised roads with layers of organic fibre, but nonwoven geotextiles have made it possible to apply the same principle on a scale suited to 21st Century construction. These materials first came to prominence in the 1970s and 1980s when engineers sought reliable separation layers for highways and embankments. Since then, they have quietly found their way into some of the world’s most recognisable civil works.

Runways and tunnels
In the runways of airports, for example, carefully layered structures of base course and treated subgrade lie below the concrete surface. Between these, a nonwoven layer acts as a bond breaker and separator, preventing the upward movement of fine particles and relieving stresses that could cause cracking at the surface. 

This small intervention can extend the runway’s life by decades and reduce the frequency of costly closures. At such sites, the stakes are high – aircraft weighing hundreds of tons depend on uniform support and impeccable drainage and the nonwoven layer ensures both.

In tunnels and underground rail networks, nonwovens perform a different yet equally critical function. Behind the waterproofing membranes that line the excavation, they serve as protective cushions, allowing the flexible membranes to accommodate ground movement without puncture. They channel seepage water into drainage systems, keeping the tunnel interior dry and safe. The great subterranean arteries of modern cities – their metros, deep stations and cut-and-cover highways – are lined with these unseen fabrics. When commuters move effortlessly through stations that might once have dripped with moisture, they are benefitting from the quiet performance of a nonwoven layer only a few millimetres thick.

Erosion control
In dam and reservoir construction, nonwoven geotextiles meanwhile provide filtration and erosion control in zones where fine soils meet coarse drainage aggregates. Their role here is to hold back the soil while allowing water to pass, preventing the formation of internal erosion channels that can threaten stability. Some of the most ambitious water projects in the world have relied on them to safeguard the transition between impervious cores and drainage layers. Decades after installation, many continue to perform flawlessly – illustrating their durability under constant load and hydraulic pressure.

Coastal and river protection projects, too, have embraced nonwovens. Beneath rock armour, breakwaters or sand-filled tubes, they stabilise the subsoil and prevent scour by wave action. When severe storms strike, these layers can be the difference between an intact shoreline and a collapsed embankment. In ports and estuaries where space is limited, nonwovens have enabled the construction of vertical quay walls and reclaimed land by controlling the migration of fines and maintaining hydraulic balance. They are the quiet custodians of modern coastlines, extending the life of structures that face the full force of nature. 

Quiet strength
When Palm Jebel Ali rises from the Gulf, it will stand as a further reminder that the most visionary feats of engineering depend not only on grand designs but also on the quiet strength of the materials beneath them. 

Nonwoven geotextiles, though unseen, remain key tools of such progress and in playing their part in shaping the 9th Wonder of the World, will once again reaffirm their place at the foundation of modern civilisation’s most ambitious landscapes.

For the third time in a row, the CHT Group has been recognized as champion of the adiFORMULATOR AWARD by adidas.

Dr. Annegret Vester, Chief Sustainability Officer, states: "We are very pleased that the CHT Group has been recognized as a leading company by adidas. With our partnership with adidas we reinforce our pro-active and long-term commitment to continuous improvement in both products and processes. This is a vital component of the CHT sustainability strategy, aligned with the UN Sustainable Development Goals.”

Nittima Kulmanoros, Brand & Retail Management, adds: “We are convinced that our success story will inspire our customers, brand partners, and other partners in the textile industry to set new standards. Our CHT B&R and regional teams are ready to share their expertise and support globally. At CHT, we are looking forward to this exciting journey together with you."

Sustainability through innovation
With innovative processes such as PIGMENTURA by CHT and the “Best Solution” concept BeSo® EFFECTIVE, CHT supports textile manufacturers in reducing costs and resources while making a positive contribution to climate protection. The increased use of renewable and recycled materials – for example, in products such as ARRISTAN rAIR – actively promotes the circular economy.

CHT Group reaffirms its commitment to sustainable chemical solutions and product stewardship
The CHT Group is sending a clear signal for sustainability and responsibility in the textile industry. With a comprehensive approach to product stewardship, the company takes responsibility for their products and ingredients respectively throughout their entire life cycle. The aim is to ensure human safety and minimize environmental risks.

Comprehensive product stewardship is the basis for successful sustainability certifications:

• ZDHC certification: More than 2,200 products certified at Level 3.
• Chem-MAP®: ZDHC Approved V3.1 Certifier (Level 1, 2 & 3).
• bluesign® technologies ag: CHT is a Global System Partner.
• SCTI membership: As a founding member of Sustainable Chemistry for the Textile Industry, CHT has been supporting transformative changes in the textile value chain since 2020.

Based on the annual data reported by Member States to the European Chemicals Agency (ECHA) under the Prior Informed Consent (PIC) Regulation, the decline is mainly due to reduced volumes of exports and imports of substances containing benzene.

ECHA’s annual report on exports and imports of chemicals that are banned or severely restricted in the EU shows that substances containing benzene accounted for approximately 51% (1.1 million tonnes) of total exports and 99% (30 million tonnes) of total imports of PIC chemicals in 2024. In 2023, 64 million tonnes of substances containing benzene were exported, with imports reaching 65 million tonnes. The decrease in their trade has led to a 97% reduction in overall export volumes and a 53% reduction in overall import volumes.

If substances containing benzene are excluded from the data, the report shows a slight increase in hazardous substance trade. Exports of other PIC chemicals increased by 7% from approximately 1.03 million tonnes in 2023 to 1.1 million tonnes in 2024. Imports of other PIC chemicals rose by 2% from approximately 378 000 tonnes in 2023 to 387 000 tonnes in 2024.

The top traded chemicals were largely similar to previous years, with substances containing benzene, benzene itself and ethylene dichloride (1,2-dichloroethane) dominating both exports and imports.

In 2024, pesticide exports increased by 34% (from approximately 173 000 to 232 000 tonnes), after two consecutive years of decline. The main contributor to this increase was chlorate, which accounted for 24% of the overall rise.

Background
Exports - 553 companies from 24 EU countries provided data to ECHA on the exports of PIC chemicals from the EU in 2024. Three EU countries (Cyprus, Luxembourg and Malta) and the United Kingdom (Northern Ireland) declared that they had not exported PIC chemicals.
Imports - 226 companies from 23 EU countries submitted data on imports of PIC chemicals into the EU in 2024. Four EU countries (Cyprus, Lithuania, Luxembourg and Malta) and the United Kingdom (Northern Ireland) declared that they had not imported PIC chemicals.

Article 10 of the PIC Regulation requires importers and exporters to give information about the annual trade of chemicals listed in Annex I to the regulation to their designated national authorities by 31 March of the following year. Each EU country must then provide the aggregated information to ECHA so that it can be summarised at EU level and non-confidential information can be made publicly available.

The process, which is both economically and environmentally sustainable, has enabled the production of an underwear set made from 100% recycled nylon and LYCRA® fibre in a closed-loop system.
      
Recycling of garments made from different types of fibres has always represented a major challenge for the textile industry. In the absence of a chemical or mechanical process capable of separating and recovering the individual materials, these garments have so far become waste destined for incineration or landfill. Today, however, Radici InNova, the RadiciGroup division dedicated to research and innovation, has developed an innovative recycling process based on selective dissolution technology, capable of treating mixed textile waste — such as swimwear, tights and leggings — and recovering both nylon and LYCRA® fibre, making them available again for the production of new garments. The collaboration with The LYCRA Company and Triumph, internationally-renowned lingerie brand, has made it possible to validate the process by using the recovered fibres to create a 100% recycled lingerie set. The process, internationally patented, uses non-toxic, non-flammable and environmentally compatible solvents. It can be applied to the main types of nylon (PA6 and PA66) and is economically sustainable because it allows for the recovery of both nylon and LYCRA® fibre, regardless of their respective proportions in the fabric, as well as the solvent itself.

“Thanks to this project, textile recycling enters a new dimension, demonstrating for the first time that it is possible to recover fibers from mixed fabrics and reuse them to produce new garments. This is an unprecedented innovation that opens up revolutionary development opportunities for the textile industry. As RadiciGroup, we are proud to have conceived and achieved this important milestone together with our partners, and we are ready to take the next steps,” said Stefano Alini, CEO of Radici InNova.

“This innovative project highlights the role that elastane can have in helping to advance circularity in the apparel industry. Working closely with Radici InNova and Triumph, The LYCRA Company has demonstrated that LYCRA® fibres can retain their renowned stretch and recovery performance — providing comfort, fit and ease of movement — even when reintegrated into the spinning cycle,” commented Nicholas Kurland, Product Development Director, Advanced Concepts The LYCRA Company.

The project began four years ago, when Radici InNova launched the study of an innovative process for the dissolution and separation of mixed textile fibres. After the initial development phase, subsequent tests made it possible to recover samples of LYCRA® fibre from multi-material fabrics, which were then sent to The LYCRA Company to verify their recyclability. The next step was to demonstrate the feasibility in practice: Triumph provided its own production surplus, a fabric containing 16% LYCRA® fibre. From this material, Radici InNova succeeded in recovering both LYCRA® fibre and nylon. The LYCRA® fibre was then re-spun by The LYCRA Company, while RadiciGroup processed the recycled nylon to produce new Renycle® yarn. Using these recycled yarns (LYCRA® fibre and Renycle®), a 60-meter black fabric was created, which Triumph used to produce a coordinated lingerie set — bra and briefs — concretely demonstrating the possibility of closing the loop: from textile waste to new garments. The result achieved so far by Radici InNova, The LYCRA Company and Triumph should be considered a prototype (concept garment) designed to prove the technical feasibility of recycling mixed textiles and lay the groundwork for its future industrialization.

“Although still in its early stages, Triumph is proud to contribute to this pioneering initiative and to explore the potential of this innovative recycling technology for future applications. Our next step will focus on developing a capsule collection, while also working on solutions to ensure product identification, traceability and circularity systems, so that garments can remain in use for as long as possible and, once they reach the end of their life, can be recycled in the most appropriate way. At Triumph, we are committed to promoting innovation and collaboration in the field of sustainability. Being part of this project strengthens our belief that circularity for garments made from mixed textile fibers is possible, and we are proud to help turn this vision into reality,” said Vera Galarza, Global Head of Sustainability – Triumph.