From the Sector

John Lewis has announced a trial where customers can bring their garments, accessories and a selection of homeware back to life through an in-store repair service. To launch the trial, John Lewis and Johnsons (part of Timpson Group) are joining forces to bring their expertise for this new offering to customers.

From reviving your wedding dress, to restoring the zip on a luxury clutch or adjusting a pair of curtains, the service will offer repair and alterations, laundry, dry cleaning and more.

Launching in selected stores from 22 July, the service will accept any brand allowing customers to drop off items to be fixed, altered, cleaned or restored, and come back to collect them after they have been given a fresh lease of life for years to come.

Extending a garment’s life by just nine months can reduce its carbon, waste and water footprints by up to 30%*. Prolonging the life of clothing is a key pillar of the circular economy, and with more consumers embracing the culture of mending and repair, recent research found that more than a third of UK adults plan to increase household repairs, rather than buying new**. This is also the case with our customers, with nearly half seeing a lifespan guarantee to repair or replace any item as the most appealing added service.

The trial will launch in five John Lewis branches: Oxford, Liverpool, Cheadle, Milton Keynes and Welwyn.

John Lewis will learn what customers want during the 16 week trial - such as the type of services customers look for, type of garments most repaired and the demographics of customers seeking the repair service - in a test and learn approach.

* WRAP, Valuing Our Clothes: the cost of UK fashion
** Aviva, Ramping up: repairs, renovations and recycling

In a position paper published, the companies organised in the VDMA Textile Machinery Association comment on the ambitious EU regulations and their national implementation for the sustainable and circular transformation of the textile and clothing industry.

The production of textiles requires a large number of resources, such as water, energy and chemicals. “The members of VDMA Textile Machinery support customers with products worldwide to utilise great potential already at the textile production stage to thereby reduce CO2 emissions“, explained Verena Thies, Deputy Chairwoman of VDMA Textile Machinery.

The position statement emphasises the importance of efficient processes, circular economy and binding rules for all market participants. Besides, the position paper summarises the status of textile-to-textile recycling processes as well as the framework conditions for reprocessing of recyclates. The companies of VDMA Textile Machinery develop processes and technologies for recycling and provide the technical prerequisites for the efficient reuse and recycling of textile raw materials, whether natural or man-made fibres.
The Executive Board of VDMA Textile Machinery stresses additionally, that the new EU regulations for circular economy and their national implementation must be designed with realistic targets, measurable effects and as little bureaucracy as possible. Furthermore, market surveillance is needed to ensure a level playing field for all market participants.

On behalf of the industry, the VDMA Textile Machinery Association calls for creating better location conditions in Germany and EU as a favourable environment for innovation und competitiveness for textile machinery manufacturing to significantly advance the sustainability of the textile industry: The Textile Machinery Association strongly emphasises the need for a wide range of low-cost green energy, which is essential for the implementation and sustainable use of recycling solutions in the manufacturing industry. The association also sees the positive shaping of location conditions (the potential for skilled labour, a reduction in bureaucracy, shorter approval periods, investment security and predictability as well as a reduction in the tax burden) as a decisive factor for supporting sustainable business in the highly competitive textile and clothing industry.

Latest developments in the sustainable textile industry will be introduced and discussed at the “Cellulose Fibres Conference 2025 – New with Biosynthetics” in Cologne, Germany and online, on 12-13 March 2025. Abstract submission is now open.

In 2024, 214 participants enjoyed two conference days in Cologne or online. The highlights were 40 presentations with lively panel discussions afterwards, the innovation award “Cellulose Fibre Innovation of the Year”, an exhibition, the poster session and plenty of networking possibilities. All of this will be repeated in 2025, including new topics, new speakers and new inputs. The “Cellulose Fibres Conference 2025” will again cover the entire value chain, from lignocellulose, chemical pulp, cellulose fibres such as rayon, viscose, modal or lyocell and new developments to a wide range of applications, e.g. textiles from renewable fibres, nonwovens such as wet wipes and composites, hygiene and packaging. The conference will further address topics like circular economy, fibre-to-fibre recycling and sustainable carbon cycles, biosynthetics, new technologies and feedstocks.

Call for Abstracts
Enterprises and research institutes are invited to contribute to the program and present their innovative products, technologies or developments. Deadline for submission is 30 September 2024.
cellulose-fibres.eu/call-for-abstracts

Call for Innovations
The conference will conclude with the innovation award “Cellulose Fibre Innovation 2025” whose winner can join the ranks of amazing innovations. The deadline for innovation submissions is 30 November 2024. The innovation award “Cellulose Fibre Innovation of the Year 2025” is sponsored by GIG Karasek.
cellulose-fibres.eu/award-application

Call for posters
The poster exhibition is highly anticipated event at the conference. Poster submissions are open until 31 January 2025.
cellulose-fibres.eu/call-for-posters

Polartec, a Milliken & Company brand and premium creator of innovative and more sustainable textile solutions announced the launch of its newly revamped website. Designed to deliver a seamless and engaging browsing experience for all, the site now caters more effectively to the company’s brand partners and its growing base of direct consumers. It also makes it easier for users to discover the Polartec performance guarantee.

The new website features a fresh new look and feel, along with significant enhancements to improve the user experience. With a strong emphasis on accessibility and user engagement, the revised site ensures that visitors can quickly find the information they need, whenever and wherever they want it. Key features include:

• Modern Design and Structure: The site’s intuitive navigation and streamlined design allow our users to access vital information quickly and easily from any entry point.
• Dynamic Animation: Integrated modern animation enhances engagement and facilitates the interactive and highly enjoyable browsing experience.
• Optimized Content: Overhauled and strategically optimized for SEO, the new content reflects our refreshed positioning while ensuring high visibility in search engine results.

Just as Polartec is dedicated to pushing the boundaries of textile innovation while prioritizing the planet, the new navigation menu reflects this commitment by ensuring fast, easy access to primary sections and important information. And, by highlighting sustainable practices, groundbreaking fabrics and exclusive textile technologies, the new website meets the needs of renowned sportswear apparel companies, top-tier athletes and everyday users alike.

• Fabrics: Explore Polartec’s extensive range of high-performance fabrics.
• Sustainability: Learn about Polartec’s commitment to sustainability and eco-friendly practices.
• Brands: The newly named Products section features our partner brands and their products
• News: Stay up to date with the latest information and company news.
• About Us: Gain insights into Polartec’s company values and mission.

Today more than ever, sustainability in the fashion sector is an imperative that is reshaping the dynamics of the sector. These are important changes driven both by increasing CSR regulations (for example, Business of Fashion revealed that, according to 87% of players, the new regulations will impact their company in 2024), and by consumers’ habits (increasingly sensitive to the topic and consequently more careful in purchasing choices). In this scenario, Lectra analyzed real-time data from Retviews – its artificial intelligence-based solution specialized in competitive intelligence and automatic benchmarking – and unveils how Retviews’ empowers brands to navigate the complexities of sustainable and optimized collection planning.

According to Retviews data, to face sustainability challenges and best orient in the current complex fashion landscape, it will be crucial for brands to keep 5 key indications in mind:

1. Planning sustainable collections
Faced with the new regulations, brands are called to rethink their strategies, without losing sight on performance. For this reason, brands are already moving to optimize and rationalize the creative processes of their collections with a view to sustainability. In particular, Retviews' real-time data analysis reveals a growing trend towards sustainability in the collections of leading brands, where there are important investments in sustainable fabrics for both upper and lower garments. In particular, in the "Top" section, shirts show the most significant growth year over year among the eco-responsible options.

2. Sustainable prices (in every sense)
In this context, the redefinition of prices requires a strategic balance between market dynamics and the consumer's willingness to pay for products redesigned in terms of CSR. Retviews data shows a significant increase in costs in sustainable top collections. However, has this shift affected stock levels?

3. Inventories: optimized management
Tracking stock levels is crucial to season management, as it helps identify best-selling items and trends, as well as identify which items would sell better at full price versus those that should be discounted.
The new premium prices for sustainable collections require optimization of the sales rate, a waste limitation to minimum and a reduction of unsold goods rate.
Analyzing the tops category - In the tops category, where sustainably made products prevail with significantly higher price points than generic tops, Retviews' real-time data reveals that sustainable collections boast a higher sell-out rate compared to non-sustainable products. This superior sell-out rate underscores consumers' willingness to pay a premium for sustainability

4. Traceability and certification of collections
Certification is essential in verifying sustainability claims, fosters trust and ensures compliance. Not only that, it is also important to understand the value of the certifications and which ones appear most frequently in the various markets so as to make targeted decisions and adapt the assortments accordingly. This also let brands to prioritize the right mix of fabrics that can reflect the desires of local consumers. Retviews data highlights a particular focus on “Recycled Claim Standard” (RCS) certification in Europe and on “Fair Trade” and “Good Cashmere Standard” certified garments in the United States.

5. Mix of sustainable fabrics
About environmental impact, fabrics also play a fundamental role. Through data-driven tools, brands are able to find valuable information on sustainable materials that are gaining tractions in collections and thus make informed and strategic decisions in the process of planning their creations.

Dongshin University from Naju in South Korea and Institut für Textiltechnik (ITA) of RWTH Aachen University will cooperate in the field of industrial digitalisation and renewable energies in the future. A cooperation agreement was signed on 9 July by Professor Dr Chun-Shik kim and Professor Dr Thomas Gries. Professor Dr Chun-Shik Kim is an expert on German-Korean economic cooperation, ADEKO board member and former advisor to the Deputy Prime Minister, Professor Dr Thomas Gries is ITA Director and Rectorate Representative of RWTH Aachen University for Korea. The co-operation marks the culmination of 15 years of ITA activities in Korea. The fruits of this cooperation are the SmartTextronics Centre and the city partnership between the cities of Aachen and Ansan.

Dongshin University in Naju, South Korea, is a renowned university specialising in innovative research and practice-oriented education. It specialises in engineering, information and communication technology and renewable energies. The university is known for its international co-operation and its contribution to regional and global development.

RWTH Aachen University is one of the leading technical universities in Europe and offers excellent research and teaching opportunities. Institut für Textiltechnik (ITA) of RWTH Aachen University is one of the largest institutes at RWTH Aachen University and is internationally recognised for its outstanding research achievements in the field of textile technology and for its industrial cooperation. RWTH Aachen University maintains close co-operation with international partners and promotes global networking in science and research.

The Circular Valley Convention is a new trade fair format organised by Messe Düsseldorf in cooperation with the non-profit Circular Valley Foundation and with scientific support from the renowned Fraunhofer Institute for Environmental, Safety, and Energy Technology called UMSICHT.

The convention looks at the circular economy from a holistic perspective: across industries and materials – and all phases of the circular economy, from smart circular design to the reuse and further utilisation of products.

As a central global platform for the circular economy, it brings together decision-makers and experts from business, academia, politics, and society in one place. Under the motto "Uniting Industries for a Circular Tomorrow", it promotes their networking in order to present and jointly develop circular solutions and processes and drive forward the transformation towards a circular economy.

Messe Düsseldorf is contributing its many years of expertise to the Circular Valley Convention stemming from a wide range of trade fairs such as K, interpack and drupa, which are closely related to the circular economy. The non-profit Circular Valley Foundation, the cooperation partner of the convention, has a comprehensive understanding of the circular economy and a large network. The scientific support provided by the Fraunhofer Institute for Environmental, Safety, and Energy Technology UMSICHT and the associated expertise round off the extensive professional support.

The Circular Valley Convention covers all phases of the circular economy: from the use of renewable raw materials to product design, manufacturing, logistics, and operations all the way through to collection, sorting, and recycling, featuring solutions for different material classes and value chains. The convention combines applied research and practice and is a content hub for top decision-makers and experts. With the guiding theme "Enabling Circular Economy", the focus is on three central topics that enable the transformation towards a circular economy:

• Enabling Value Chains: the implementation of efficient, sustainable, and cross-industry circular solution strategies to maximise the use of resources and make business models fit for the future.
• Enabling Technologies: the transfer of circular competencies such as redesign, refurbish, remanufacture & recycle. The goal is to optimise products and processes using technologies that comply with the principles of the circular economy.
• Enabling Materials: the promotion of the efficient use and recycling of various materials, aiming for the extension of product lifespans and the integration of cross-material circular strategies for the sustainable use of resources.

the Circular Valley Convention offers a three-part event format consisting of a conference, an expo, and a networking event on the evening of 12 March 2024. Over 100 high-calibre speakers are scheduled to attend the conference. More than 130 exhibitors and partners are expected to attend the expo, the marketplace for future-oriented circular solutions, which offers insights into new trends, innovations, and best practice examples.

Coloreel Group AB, a pioneering Swedish technology company known for its instant thread dyeing technology, today announced that it has filed for bankruptcy. The decision comes after the company's inability to develop its business volume quickly enough and, related to this, secure the necessary financing.

Despite many in-depth discussions with financial investors and potential industrial partners to secure additional funding, Coloreel has been unable to overcome its financial hurdles.

Coloreel has aimed to transform the textile industry with unique coloring and design possibilities through a sustainable and efficient thread dyeing process. The company has over 90 customers in the global market, many of them well-known brands. Over 120 granted patents across 45 markets ensure robust protection of the innovative technology.

"It is with a heavy heart that we announce the filing for bankruptcy today. We have been working very hard to introduce a new technology and new ways of working on the global textile market. Despite relentless efforts to grow the business, minimize operational costs, and secure additional funding, the challenges are too great. The board and the management are incredibly proud of what our team has achieved, and we are grateful for the support we have received from our partners, customers, and investors”, states Anders Persson, Chairman of the Board, Coloreel Group AB.

The filing also applies for the daughter company Coloreel AB.

CARBIOS and Zhink Group, specializing in two global industries, PET and textiles, announce the signing of a joint Letter of Intent to build a biorecycling plant in China using CARBIOS’ revolutionary enzymatic depolymerization technology to serve the global market. This agreement officializes collaboration towards a long-term partnership in view of a first licensing contract to build a plant with a minimum annual processing capacity of 50k tons of prepared PET waste and would contribute to accelerating a circular economy for plastic and textiles. China is a key market for CARBIOS, and this agreement would establish a presence in this dominant market.

With 67 million tons of PET produced annually, representing 61% of global production^[1], China is the world's largest PET producer. With regional and global demand for recycled PET growing, China also has the potential to take the lead in recycled PET (r-PET) production. In 2021, 58% of the world’s r-PET was consumed in Asia (with 38% in China^[2]) underscoring this region’s importance both as a major producer and consumer.

Furthermore, China is a key transformer of PET into resins and fibers used in numerous applications in the packaging and textile industries.  Most notably, China is the primary country for transforming PET into fiber, representing 78% of all PET fiber transformation in the world^[3].

For Zhink, the strategic focus is on the development of two global industries, PET and textiles, and to be a leader with sustainable competitiveness. Zhink is a major actor within the PET market with an annual production of 3 million tons of PET, serving domestic and global markets. CARBIOS has developed a enzymatic depolymerization technology that enables efficient and solvent-free recycling of PET plastic and textile waste into virgin-like products. The initial agreement between the two groups would allow Zhink to increase its recycled PET capacities and meet its sustainable competitiveness objectives by offering r-PET from enzymatic recycling: a circular recycling solution that can process all types of PET waste including hard-to-recycle waste (such as opaque and colored bottles, multilayer food trays and textile waste) while reducing CO2 emissions by 57%^[4] compared with virgin PET production. For CARBIOS, this agreement marks a significant step in the deployment of its technology worldwide and roll-out of its licensing model to achieve its ambition to become a leading technology provider in the recycling of PET by 2035. This Asia-based plant under license by Zhink would come in addition to the world’s first industrial-scale enzymatic PET recycling plant which is currently under construction in Longlaville, France.

^[1] HIS Markit 2021, Market Research Future 2021
^[2] HIS Markit 2021, Market Research Future 2021
^[3] HIS Markit 2021, Market Research Future 2021
^[4] Database ecoinvent 3.8; French scenario, taking into account the detour of 50% of PET waste from conventional end-of-life. Virgin PET: 2.53 kg CO2/kg (cradle to gate)

The Sustainability Report 2023, which is now digitally available, provides insights into the past financial year and summarizes the main ecological, economic and social developments. Sustainability is an integral part of the corporate strategy of the CHT Group.

• The CHT Group uses the terms PEOPLE, PLANET and PERFORMANCE to emphasize its commitment to the 3 dimensions of sustainability worldwide and sets itself further goals. The CHT Group consistently aligns its sustainability strategy with all three ESG dimensions
• Responsibility for sustainability lies with the Chief Sustainability Officer
• Climate protection plays a central role worldwide - the corporate carbon footprint (Scope 1-3) 2023 adds up to 456 kt CO2(e)
• The Group is pursuing the goal of becoming climate-neutral by 2045
• At the end of 2021, the CHT Group signed up to the Science Based Targets initiative (SBTi) to meet the goals of the Paris Climate Agreement and committed to the 1.5 °C target
• SBTi has validated the CHT Group's reduction targets - by 2030, Scope 1+2 emissions will be reduced by - 42 % and Scope 3 emissions by - 25 %. 82 % of sales were achieved with sustainably classified products
• In 2024 EcoVadis awards the CHT Group's sustainability management with the Gold level for the first time