From the Sector

The Autumn/Winter '25 edition of Scoop returns to Olympia West, Kensington, from 9–11 February 2025, bringing London’s largest and most anticipated curated showroom event back into the spotlight. Under the expert curation of Founder and Managing Director Karen Radley, this season promises a fresh roster of talent, featuring exciting new faces among the line-up of international designers and lifestyle brands, all carefully selected to captivate buyers and visitors in an intimate and contemporary setting.

Founded in Paris in 2017, Artlove is set to present a vibrant collection that cultivates the spontaneity of a feminine and easy-to-wear aesthetic. Committed to meticulous craftsmanship, Artlove’s clothes are inspired by the vivacious spirit of creativity, for a wardrobe imagined in Paris and to be enjoyed joyfully everywhere. Their dresses, knitwear and separates are designed in a palette of options to reflect individual personality. Each outfit is a work of art in itself, ready to be styled according to the wearer’s mood.

Also making its debut at Scoop is iconic Spanish streetwear brand Loreak Mendian. Founded in Donostia over 25 years ago, Loreak Mendian means “flowers in the mountains”, and is faithful to its roots today by advocating for the power of design to create timeless and durable pieces. Driven by culture, their collections are inspired by artistic expressions; music, art, and graphic design, balance practicality with style, offering versatile urban apparel for both men and women that embodies the spirit of sustainability.

ALIX the Label, renowned for its luxurious take on wardrobe essentials, will also be showing for the first time. Designed ‘for those with a hint of rock and roll in their DNA’, this season’s highlights include leopard-print dresses paired with crisp sneakers for a laid-back look, and bold oversized blazers that can be styled with sky-high heels for a night out.

Orfeo Paris will unveil a collection that effortlessly blends structured tailoring with dreamy feminine charm. Expect tailored blazers, chic dresses, and cosy knitwear designed with precision and a keen eye for detail. Each piece captures the essence of Parisian sophistication while remaining approachable and practical for everyday wear.

For buyers seeking new jewellery designers, Love Letter’s latest collection, The Divine Feminine, is an ode to feminine power and mystique. The line features striking jewellery pieces that harmonise celestial and earthly elements, with gemstones like rainbow moonstones, copper turquoise, malachite, amethyst, and carnelian taking centre stage. Also debuting, The Little Words Project is known for its handcrafted beaded bracelets featuring inspirational phrases. These customisable accessories promote kindness and positivity, encouraging wearers to “pay it forward” by gifting them to friends or loved ones in need of encouragement.

Travaux en Cours is set to impress with its chic and functional range of bags and hats.  Designed in France and woven in Italy, their unisex hats, crafted from durable woven paper that
mimics straw, are available in a variety of colours, making them an ideal addition to any wardrobe.

Other new designers poised to catch buyers’ attention include My Beachy Side, Artemis Muse, Fancy Palas, Mirto, and Sunny Studio. Scoop favourites, such as Cocoa Cashmere, Dr. Bloom, Dream Catchers, Sophie + Lucie, Sofie Schnoor, Quinton Chadwick, Mou, Eribe, Dedicated, and Dr. Denim, will showcase their latest collections. Meanwhile, returning brands Dixie, Pom Amsterdam, Vilagallo, Nooki, Humility, and FRNCH promise to delight with their distinctive offerings.

Jeanologia celebrates the 25^th anniversary of its pioneering laser technology at Kingpins Amsterdam, with a unique capsule collection that blends the nostalgia of traditional denim with technological advances that have revolutionized the industry. This joint celebration with Kingpins – commemorating their 10th anniversary in Amsterdam and 20th globally – highlights the global impact of laser technology through a visual installation that traces a quarter century of innovation, with a focus on the future.

The launch of Jeanologia’s first laser in 1999 marked the beginning of a new era for the textile industry, improving sustainability, quality, and efficiency. By eliminating hazardous practices like sandblasting, this disruptive technology enhanced processes and redefined the concepts of innovation and sustainability in an industry rooted in craftsmanship. Today, this technology is used in 50% of global jean production, solidifying its position as an essential tool for top manufacturers and fashion brands.

Jeanologia has successfully integrated laser technology into the DNA of denim without losing sight of its classic heritage. This balance between tradition and modernity has cemented its significant impact on the industry. “Laser has enabled more sustainable production and opened up creative possibilities that were once unimaginable,” says Fernando Cardona, Head of Jeanologia's Brainbox.

25 LASER YEARS capsule collection of ‘old new designs’
To commemorate this milestone at Kingpins Amsterdam, Jeanologia will offer an interactive visual journey through the history of their laser technology and present a specially designed capsule collection to celebrate this anniversary.

This installation will showcase a special collection that captures the magic of laser by merging the classic with the modern. Patches, embroidery, and natural wear effects evoke the nostalgia of traditional denim, while the technology plays the silent protagonist behind each finish. The garments illustrate how laser allows iconic vintage effects such as stone washing, worn-out looks, washing marks, rips, and marbling effects using tools like the “Light Ripper” or “Light Scrapper.” The collection also explores the numerous creative possibilities these tools enable, including hyper realistic laser details, denim elements and bleach-like stains. This nostalgic approach invites the reinterpretation of the past through updated historical models that encapsulate the idea of continuous evolution and improvement in laser design.

This "old new designs" capsule collection symbolizes the connection between Jeanologia's legacy and its vision of a greener, more responsible textile industry, celebrating its history while inviting both the industry and consumers to be part of a more sustainable future in denim.

As part of the 25th-anniversary celebration, Jeanologia will offer a digital version of this capsule collection, with 25 digital designs that pay homage to the evolution of laser technology and its transformative impact. Visitors can also experience the unique digital design process with eDesigner software, taking home their digital garment to produce it sustainably anywhere in the world.

Jeanologia invites brands, designers, and consumers to be part of a new era of denim, where tradition and technology merge to create a greener, more innovative, and sustainable future.

A tribute to the ‘Denim Tribe’
Jeanologia does not commemorate this anniversary alone. The collections and the accompanying narrative are a shared tribute to the global community of brands, designers, and manufacturers who have embraced laser technology and contributed to its progress. “More than a celebration for Jeanologia, this is recognition of the entire industry, the ‘denim tribe’ that has courageously and responsibly adopted this technology, advancing towards a more sustainable future in fashion. Without their collaboration, we wouldn’t have achieved this impact,” emphasizes the Head of Technological Development at Jeanologia.

A digital twin supply chain has recently been established by Swedish start-up PaperTale for Sail Racing – a brand well known for its durable and long-lasting performance garments for the marine industry.

The PaperTale system for Sail Racing fully maps a complex network, beginning with farmers in Australia, moving to garment workers in Pakistan and finally reaching consumers in Scandinavia. It incorporates data collection from the three countries using NFC tags and blockchain technology to provide detailed supply chain insights and ensure regulatory compliance for the brand.

Introducing the usually anonymous factory workers responsible for each individual garment to the person buying it is what sets PaperTale apart from other tracking systems – a next level of personalisation that will make a valuable contribution to raising the debate on the true cost of textiles.

“Our system captures the supply chain of a product from cradle to grave, in real-time,” says company founder Bilal Bhatti. “By integrating it into existing planning and management systems, factories and brands can gather and verify the flow of material and their social and environmental data in real-time. Data is added to a public blockchain so it is extremely hard to tamper with, further increasing trust. When a product is finalised, consumers can scan an NFC tag or QR-code to view the entire journey a product has travelled, which craftsmen were involved in the production, and if they have been paid fairly.”

“This technology is a game-changer in that we provide verified information about the social aspects of the manufacturing process and not just information about the components of the garment,” says Bilal. “We need products and processes to be much more connected with people, especially in such a complex supply chain where a high percentage of the work is carried out by contract workers who are unregistered and often exploited.

“When the entire product journey is visible using real-time and verified data, higher trust is created all the way from factories to consumers. Our system makes it possible to start the dialogue on the cost of sustainability, paving the way to increase incentives that result in proper wages, contracts and workplace safety. In respect of environmental sustainability, real-time data makes real-time measurement possible, which will also stimulate brands and factories to reduce emissions, water usage and pollution.”

The collaboration is further highlighted as the primary case study in a just-released white paper prepared by Deloitte, as a guide to how companies could most effectively prepare for the European Commission’s upcoming Digital Product Passport (DPP) and other related legislation.

The Salvation Army announces a collaboration with celebrity fashion stylist Rebekah Roy for Sustainable Fashion Week. Rebekah will join as special guest for an exclusive online second-hand fashion event and share expert tips on styling second-hand fashion.  The webinar will be held on Tuesday 24th September at 8 pm (BST). The partnership presents an opportunity to promote second-hand shopping and create lasting change.  
 
Listed as one of the top 100 "Most original and influential people in the UK creative and media industries” by Time Out, Rebekah is an award-winning stylist whose career boasts working on more than 75 catwalk shows, including for London Fashion Week, Rolls Royce, Ascot and Harrods. Beyond the runway, Rebekah has collaborated with iconic musicians including Duran Duran, Billy Idol, Enya, Kate Nash and Max Rae.
 
As a strong advocate for sustainability, Rebekah has also pioneered the UK’s first vegan fashion show and regularly curates the Source Fashion show at London Olympia, reflecting her commitment to a sustainable lifestyle and her vision for a fashion industry that respects our planet.
 
Sustainable Fashion Week unites the community in taking creative action; to change the fashion system from the bottom up and the programme features a series of events to take action locally and change fashion globally.  As part of SATCoL’s commitment to sustain our planet and transform lives, the 30-minute webinar with Rebekah Roy will be available to the public for free and it will encourage second-hand shopping as she shares expert tips on styling vintage looks to make your wardrobe last. In addition to this, guests will receive a free guide to take away to support them further after the event.
 
The webinar is a call to action to drive lasting change and SATCoL will take the opportunity to introduce the great work they do to help sustain the planet and give used textiles a second lease of life whilst, helping to raise vital funds for charity. The webinar will be hosted by Salvation Army Trading Company Ltd (SATCoL), who operates around 250 stores and a UK-wide clothing bank collection service on behalf of the charity. SATCoL has received industry wide recognition in fashion for their efforts to support brands and retailers to meet their sustainability goals and the webinar encourages the public to also take part in diverting more items away from disposal and to shop second-hand.

Archroma, specialist in chemicals towards sustainable solutions, Kipaş Denim, a Turkish company with a focus on integrated textile production, and Jeanologia, a sustainable textile solutions company, are collaborating to pioneer a new denim finishing process for enhanced aesthetic appeal and greater sustainability.

Combining their advanced technologies, the three textile innovators are behind the launch of Kipaş Denim’s new Contra Denim concept – a breakthrough in denim dyeing and finishing that enables brands to create stunning and long-lasting distressed looks and designs effects, including intricate patterns, whiskering and fades, through cleaner processes that save water and energy and reduce greenhouse gas emissions.

Denim has traditionally been challenging to produce, especially for black and indigo fabric with a worn or distressed look, requiring significant water usage, harmful chemicals and intensive manual labor. The Contra Denim collection is laser- and laundry-friendly, with colors that are deep and durable. Stunning wash-down vintage effects and high contrasts are achieved via washing or laser techniques.

Contra Denim is based on Archroma’s DENIM HALO, a new approach to denim production that incorporates resource-saving pretreatment that includes DIRSOL® RD and dyeing processes to produce easy-wash laser-friendly denim. It delivers a substantially reduced environmental footprint compared to the industry-standard denim finishing process while reducing yarn shrinkage and improving garment tensile strength.

The Contra Denim’s vintage looks are achieved with advanced laser marking technology from Jeanologia. Thanks to the combination of Archroma and Jeanologia technologies, manual hand scraping or potassium permanganate spraying harmful for workers and the environment are completely eliminated.

Fernando Cardona, Brain Box Team Manager, Jeanologia, said: “As a purpose-driven textile technology company, we take pride in working with partners to accompany them through their transformational processes. We are delighted to work with industry leaders such as Archroma and Kipaş Denim, who are at the forefront of responsible denim production.”

Initially producing a ContraBlack Denim collection, Kipaş Denim has now extended the Contra line to classic indigo and other colors from the DIRESUL® RDT range.

The ContraBlack collection earned a Jeanologia Environmental Impact Measurement (EIM) score of 11 on stone wash versus the ring dyeing market standard score of 67. This confirms the low impact of the ContraBlack range in both water and energy consumption, chemical impact and workers’ health.

adidas Originals and Edison Chen present the next chapter of their collaboration with the debut of an updated CLOT Gazelle in linen khaki and blue. The ongoing collaboration debuts its first global apparel range with the CLOT August Collection by Edison Chen.

As Edison Chen continues to build bridges between East and West, Chen brings together renowned Spanish football players, Vicky Lopez and Mapi Leon, and Tino El Pingüino, an influential rapper in the Latin music scene, to celebrate this new collection through a campaign that opens the door to their own imaginations. Coming together as one, each collaborator invites to experience a taste of their daily reality and the adventurous paths they tread along the way, igniting creativity and inviting consumers to step into new realms through the creative lens of Edison. With this campaign, Edison Chen was inspired to bring together fashion and cultural impact through the sport of football and music, all inspired by Chen’s extensive travels throughout Europe. The campaign embarks on a journey to create something new out of a classic with an untraditional execution for sportswear.

The CLOT Gazelle by Edison Chen arrives with premium nubuck details on a jute upper and an espadrille sole now adorned with blue stripes. The espadrille gives the shoe a luxurious touch while the khaki coloring achieves a playful, relaxing tone. Derived from the study of traditional Espadrille-making and inspired by classic Espadrille artisans, the stitching was applied to the final construction of the CLOT Gazelle, with special attention given to how the upper is assembled to the bottom. The cotton tape is all custom engineered for the shoe and beaded using an intricate process inspired by Eastern influence. Finally, the midsole is custom engineered for maximum support, highlighting the new construction process.

Fashion for Good and its footwear partners adidas, Inditex, ON Running, PVH Corp., Reformation, Target, and Zalando announce a new initiative aimed at accelerating and validating the next generation of footwear innovations. This builds on the organisation’s existing work leveraging their expertise in scouting, validation, innovation and collaboration. This initiative will address the key intervention points needed to drive footwear circularity spanning four work streams across the supply chain from materials to end of use. Industry wide collaboration will be vital to overcome the various roadblocks we face in this space. Therefore, Fashion for Good is launching a call for action, asking all relevant innovators to apply and collaborators to join in the movement.

Around 23.9Bn shoes are produced globally each year, they are often made using over 40 different components from a range of different materials including TPU, EVA, PU and rubber. The industry faces significant challenges due to this high complexity of shoe construction. This combined with a low collection rate, results in a vast majority of discarded footwear ending up in landfills. Fashion for Good sees the need to address this challenge and focus on laying the foundation for footwear circularity as well as accelerating innovation.

Therefore, Fashion for Good will double down their work in this space, building on their existing projects including the Fast Feet Grinded pilot, which tests and validates Fast Feet Grinded's footwear recycling process. Expanding on existing workstreams Fashion for Good will collaborate with our footwear focused partners, including adidas, Inditex, ON Running, PVH Corp., Reformation, Target, and Zalando

To effectively address the challenges in footwear sustainability, Fashion for Good has identified the key intervention points across the shoe lifecycle and structured work into four core workstreams:

1. Materials - Scouting and validating sustainable alternatives for footwear materials including TPU, PU, EVA, leather, and rubber
2. Design - Defining circular design in the footwear space and collectively driving guidelines to build a circular infrastructure
3. End of Use: Sorting, Disassembly, & Recycling - Developing a comprehensive data set on post-consumer footwear waste flows, including (non-)rewearable fractions, volumes, construction and composition. As well as scouting and validating solutions for repair,  end of use, disassembly and recycling of footwear
4. Traceability - Laying the foundation by amalgamating a footwear traceability data protocol to build traceability for evidence to substantiate sustainability claims

CALL FOR INNOVATIONS
Fashion for Good is on the lookout for breakthrough sustainable solutions in the footwear sector that maintain performance and durability. If you have a relevant technology, whether you're an innovator, university, or established company, can apply by 20th September 2024 here.

STOLL was also represented with a stand at this year's Pitti Filati. The flat knitting machine specialist of the KARL MAYER GROUP introduced its new trend collection NOCTURNO and developments from STOLL ITALIA, which were created in collaboration with the yarn manufacturer IAFIL Industria Ambrosiana Filati S.p.A. The digital software products of the CREATE family were demonstrated on request.

In addition to its participation as an exhibitor, STOLL, together with three other companies, led the "Training Days" project at Pitti Filati designed for the professional development of the entire community of operators.

STOLL's trade fair presentation at this year's Pitti Filati was organised by its subsidiary STOLL ITALIA and was a complete success.

The start to the premiere of the CHINA WAVE pavilion at Pitti Uomo 106: the first stop of the "2024 China National Garment Association Overseas Programme" was a complete success for the participating designer labels from China. The Chinese brands impressed the international fashion world with their exclusive and extraordinary collections at the Costruzioni Lorenesi in the Fortezza da Basso in Florence. The famous fashion journalist, Suzy Menkes, was also impressed by the creations.

The styles and current looks from from VALLEYOUTH, KB HONG BY K-BOXING, RAXXY, JDV, FENGGY, BLACKHEAD, KEYONE BY HATTERSHUB, TYPETAIL impressed buyers, fashionistas and media representatives alike with their design expertise, creativity and product quality. The combination of contemporary styles with traditional Chinese elements, as seen in the collections of KB HONG by BY K-BOXING, JDV and VALLEYOUTH, among others, attracted international audience from Italy, Germany, France, Great Britain, Spain, Saudi Arabia, the United Arab Emirates, the USA, Mexico, Canada, Australia and many more.

Among those welcomed to the pavilion was Suzy Menkes, who emphasised the combination of tradition and modernity in collections such as those from KB HONG by BY K-BOXING and VALLEYOUTH in the CHINA WAVE pavilion. VALLEYOUTH's new collection was presented by fashion photographer Acielle from style du monde at Vogue World, while fashion blogger Augusto Ferretti commented on the brands' designs as "artistic sculptures". The appearance of the famous Chinese actor and singer AYUNGA as a testimonial for the new KB HONG by BY K-BOXING collection at Pitti Uomo attracted particular attention.

Further stops of the "2024 China National Garment Association Overseas Programme" are Who's Next in Paris and TheOne Milano in Milan in September.

The next CHINA WAVE presentation at Pitti Uomo is planned for January 2025.

adidas Originals and Montreal-based design studio, JJJJound, return to present their latest collection.

Inspired by the Three Stripes’ sporting heritage and driven by a commitment to authentic storytelling, the second adidas Originals by JJJJound collection draws on quintessential footballing aesthetics with a 7 piece apparel, accessories, and footwear offering.

The apparel and accessories selection includes an all black track top and matching pair of track pants, a tonal white jersey, and a black airliner bag, as well as a co-branded football and bag set. The collection is then rounded out by a new take on the classic Samba sneaker.

Accompanying the launch of the collection is a campaign featuring football legend José Mourinho. Captured by photographer Liam MacRae amidst a backdrop of quotidian Portuguese life, the José campaign is an ode to Samba’s time honored legacy in sport and culture.