From the Sector

Supporting the industry through innovation and creativity.

The leading denim ingredient brand hosted a special panel to discuss some of the pioneering advancements in technology that are making the fashion industry more responsible: from R-TWOTM to automated laser technology.

With the fashion industry being considered one of the world’s most polluting businesses-sectors, collaborating and knowledge sharing are key in finding solutions for a better future. Fully aware of this scenario, for the second year running, ISKO was the headline sponsor at Drapers Sustainable Fashion Forum, the authoritative event bringing together the most responsible players to discuss what can be done to tackle the industry’s environmental and social issues through innovation and creativity.

Sharing knowledge, collaborating for change.

As evidence of its pioneering Responsible InnovationTM approach, ISKO shared its founding values of creativity, competence and citizenship by showcasing the R-TWOTM program, its latest responsible achievement, in a dedicated stand.

Stemming from the mill’s holistic vision, R-TWOTM represents a great example of how reducing, reusing, and recycling strategies can be implemented in a textile business to improve its environmental performance. With the goal to create fabrics that can provide both quality and responsibility, ISKO has developed this platform, which deals with the most critical issue that apparel supply chains are currently faced with: using more than what actually needed.

A BREAKTHROUGH TECHNOLOGY FOR DYEING POLYESTER AND ITS BLENDS

Huntsman Textile Effects introduces TERASIL® BLUE W, the latest addition to our TERASIL® W/WW range of wash fast disperse dyes. TERASIL® Blue W is designed to meet all major requirements for high-performance sportswear and athleisure wear. TERASIL® BLUE W stands out as the leading disperse wash fast blue dye in the market which is not sensitive to reduction, leading to higher reproducibility, right-first-time results and operational excellence.

Polyester fiber has become the fiber of choice in the textile industry, the demand for polyester and man-made fibers is expected to rise over the long term, as sports and athleisure apparel markets expand around the world. At the same time, leading brands, retailers and mills are increasingly focused on achieving brilliant and deep shades, consistent shade reproducibility, as well as water, energy and cost savings.

With cutting-edge disperse dye technology at its heart, TERASIL® BLUE W is developed by Huntsman Textile Effects to provide the leading solution for meeting industry’s wash fastness requirements. TERASIL® BLUE W offers an attractive shade and high build-up for deep blues which stays vibrant. TERASIL® BLUE W also provides quality assurance as products are bluesign® approved and suitable for STANDARD 100 by OEKO-TEX® certified textile products(1).

Following its installation at several major yarn manufacturers in China, the first wiping robot has now been operating in India since the end of 2019. As already the case with our Chinese clients, the performance of the Oerlikon Barmag solution there demonstrates the same properties: an even, high-quality wiping process providing considerably reduced yarn break rates and higher full package rates. Regular wiping (cleaning) of the spin packs is important for process stability and yarn quality.

The performance data at the Indian yarn manufacturer was collated and evaluated over a period of three months. The results revealed that the yarn break rate has – regardless of the product – fallen by almost 30%. The former running time breaks have decreased by 10% and string-up breaks by 40%. Consequently, full package rates have risen by 3%, while waste rates have fallen by 0.2%. “Yarn breaks are always an issue; they have a direct impact on the production figures. This is where the wiping robot reveals its added value”, comments Stephan Faulstich, Technology Manager POY. The system automatically and autonomously controls the individual positions in accordance with the scheduled wiping cycles. In addition to the scheduled wiping processes, there are also events that cannot be planned or that are not immediately visible. Here, the wiping robot – as a result of its management functionalities – is able to identify issues such as yarn breaks or parallel wiping processes and to independently offer solutions. The same also applies to manual requests: if another action is simultaneously required here, the system identifies this and offers solutions.

The wiping robot operates in a cross-line manner. In contrast to manual wiping, the cleaning quality remains constant around the clock, considerably reducing the impact of the wiping on both the spinning plant process stability and on the yarn data of the spun yarn. And production times can be increased between two cleaning cycles as well: whereas repeated wiping is required after 48 hours in the case of manual wiping, utilizing the robot extends the interval between two wiping processes to up to 60 hours. The considerable increase in the spinning process efficiency achieved by the wiping robot also has a positive impact on margins. To this end, one customer deploying the wiping robot was able to reduce its production costs for the same yarn by more than 3%.

Leading fashion and textile industry training centre offers UK professionals hands-on experience with 3D digital design tools
 
EFI™ Optitex®, Electronics For Imaging's global provider of integrated end-to-end 2D & 3D CAD/CAM software solutions for the fashion and apparel industry, today announced its partnership with Fashion Enter Ltd. (FEL), a UK training and technical skills development centre for the fashion and textile industry. FEL has implemented EFI Optitex 3D solutions into its course curriculum.
 
Established in 2006, London-based FEL is a veritable "all-in-one" technology hub for the fashion and textile industry, offering multiple training and technical skills development services encompassing the entire design to production cycle. A not for profit, social enterprise, FEL also provides apprenticeships and adult learning through an Educational Skills and Finding Agency- and Social Enterprise London-approved technical centre supported by Haringey Council, Mayor's Good Growth Fund and online fashion retailer ASOS®.
 
To help lay the foundation for the UK's fashion and textile industry on its imminent journey towards digital transformation, FEL was determined to close the mounting skills gap in both industry and academia and offer UK professionals hands-on experience and exposure to 3D digital design tools. With a keen understanding of the market's growing need for speed, flexibility and shifting demands, in September 2019, FEL selected EFI Optitex as its 3D technology partner. FEL sought advanced 3D solutions that would enable innovative digital design courses, apprenticeships and bespoke training, including collaboration with leading fashion retailers such as Marks & Spencer®, ASOS, Next®, and many others.
 
After a short but highly intensive training period FEL implemented EFI Optitex 3D into its design and production processes, including pattern design and 3D tools for design and fitting. Since the recent implementation, FEL has already reaped the benefits of EFI Optitex 3D fully digital design, from sampling and grading, through to production. During a preliminary implementation phase, EFI Optitex 3D will enable FEL to deliver a wide range of accredited 3D design courses and forge collaborations with new customers, a result of EFI Optitex 3D's intuitive design tools, ease of use, and time and resource savings.

• Investment of Rp. 15 trillion (USD1,1 billion) in facility
• Supports development of national textile industry and ‘Making Indonesia 4.0’ roadmap

The President of Indonesia, Joko Widodo, today inaugurated Indonesia's largest integrated viscose rayon production facility, injecting a boost for the country’s textile sector and the Indonesian Government’s industrial 4.0 development strategy.

The new Asia Pacific Rayon (APR) facility is located in the same production complex as APRIL Group in Pangkalan Kerinci, Riau province, Sumatra. This co-location allows integrated operations where renewable plantation pulp supply from APRIL feeds directly to APR for viscose rayon production. The new operation represents a total investment of approximately Rp.15 trillion (USD1.1 billion).

The APR facility has an annual production capacity of 240,000 tons. The inauguration ceremony included the signing of a plaque by President Widodo and the symbolic sealing by the President of an export container with 10,190 tons of viscose rayon fibre for shipment to Turkey, one of APR’s key export markets, and another 12,000 tons to Central Java.

The ceremony was also graced by the Minister of Industry, Agus Gumiwang Kartasasmita, the Minister of Trade Agus Suparmanto, the Governor of Riau, Syamsuar, RGE Founder and Chairman Sukanto Tanoto, and Anderson Tanoto, Director, RGE.

Speaking at the inauguration, President Widodo welcomed APR's investment in the development of the national textile industry. The role of the private sector was influential in driving economic growth, alongside the stimulus provided by the Government, he said. “Our garment industry should be greater than Vietnam. We already have our own raw materials here, such as viscose rayon, to support the industry,” he said.

Economic Contribution
APR’s business aligns with President Jokowi's vision to encourage more value-added investment in the nation and the strengthening of the national textile and textile product (TPT) industry, as set out in the Making Indonesia 4.0 Road map. In addition, the production of viscose rayon will reduce dependence on the import of textile raw materials, particularly cotton, to meet domestic demand.

Agus Gumiwang Kartasasmita, Minister for Industry, said: “By optimising the availability and use of raw materials originating from Indonesia, we can boost the performance of our textile sector. This is just one of several steps we are taking to continue to improve the performance and competitiveness of the labour-intensive industry.”

Basrie Kamba, Director APR, said: “The presence of APR will have a positive impact on employment and business opportunities for small and medium-sized businesses in the upstream and downstream sectors of the textiles and textile products industry. We are honoured and grateful to President Jokowi for inaugurating our new facility”.

In addition to Turkey, APR’s products are exported to 14 other countries including key textile centres such as Pakistan, Bangladesh, Vietnam, Brazil, and various parts of Europe. The products also support an expanding Indonesia fashion industry.

It is estimated that APR may generate foreign exchange revenues exceeding Rp1.77 trillion (USD130 million) annually, and reduce dependence on imported raw materials by about Rp2.01 trillion (USD149 million) annually.

Sustainable Production
APR produces sustainable viscose rayon fiber from renewable, traceable and biodegradable raw materials. The company’s raw materials are supplied by APRIL Group, which is recognised as a responsible pulp producer through national (Timber Legality Verification System) and international (Program for the Endorsement of Forest Certification/PEFC) certifications.

APR is the first viscose rayon manufacturer in Indonesia to receive the internationally recognised STeP certification from OEKO-TEX ®, an independent Swiss-based certification organisation, for the responsible manufacturing of viscose staple fibre.

APR has launched the ‘Everything Indonesia’ campaign to promote the sustainable sourcing and production of fashion from Indonesia. The aim is to support Indonesia’s resurgence as a global centre for textile manufacturing, and catalyse home-grown fashion design and creativity.

FOR POLYESTER AND “ACTIVE WEAR” COLOR TRENDS FOR WINTER 2021/2022

Archroma, a global leader in color and specialty chemicals towards sustainable solutions, is at the Première Vision exhibition to present its 'Color Atlas by Archroma®' for polyester. This very first color library for polyester brings together 1,440 colors for sportswear and athleisure, swimwear, children's clothing, shoes, as well as for fashion and home textiles. In this context of innovation, Carlin, a pioneer in anticipating trends since 1947, will present its selection of trends in active wear and will unveil the 3 hottest colors for winter 2021/2022: “In our societies now ruled by the vital need for ENTERTAINMENT, the DIVERGENT "extroverted Slashers", free-spirited and efficient, stimulate a MAXIMUM SELF-EXPRESSION which combines communicative power and contagious adrenaline.

In terms of shapes, we imagine assertive, shaked, keeled proportions, with volume contrasts: ultra-tight and stretched volumes. Concerning the materials, this refers to compact knits, fine nervous gauges (neo milano stretch pop), embossed ribs, colored furs, knitted materials, city: ultra-matte color drapery, double sides, jeans, over dye, deep dye.”

Selected in collaboration with fashion, sportswear and trend experts, the Color Atlas by Archroma® Polyester Library brings together new colors for in line with current trends, from the most neutral tones to the most vivid hues to fluorescent colors.

At this year’s JEC World, the largest trade fair for composites held from March 3-5, 2020 in Paris, SGL Carbon will focus on the topic of serial production for the automotive, aerospace and industrial sectors. The key is customized solutions with individual component designs combined with tailored materials and production processes ready for large scale production. Under the motto “The Solution Provider,” the company will present selective innovative component solutions from all three areas in Hall 6, Booth D25. Furthermore, as an example for industrial applications, SGL Carbon will showcase at the JEC world a crossbeam made of carbon fiber reinforced plastics (CFRP) used in automated Schuler press lines.

•    Composite battery enclosures for e-mobility
•    Flexible new leaf spring generation for rear axles
•    Innovative component designs for passenger airplanes, helicopters and air taxis
•    Extremely lightweight and stable transfer beam for mechanical engineering

Selective applications with focus on serial production
In the field of automotive applications, SGL Carbon will present at the JEC World composite battery enclosures as a promising new application driven by increasing demand for electric vehicles and the resulting new flexible chassis platforms. The company demonstrates a prototype of a battery enclosure based on carbon fibers. However, hybrid composites with a mixture of glass and carbon fibers are also possible.

In the aerospace sector, SGL Carbon is also expanding its portfolio of realized projects and expertise relying on the trend to use more efficient materials and processes in this industry too.
In the area of primary structure components, the company will present a demo exhibit for the door frame of a passenger airplane realized in collaboration with external partners and based on 50k carbon fiber from the SGL Carbon, which is suitable for serial production.

Live simulations and intense exchange at the booth
Visitors can experience live how their ideas can be implemented both sustainably and cost-effectively in composites thanks to simulations. Experts from the company’s own Lightweight and Application Center demonstrate the path from the concept to virtual prototypes using simulation software, with the result visible either to the entire audience or just individual visitors. To prepare, interested parties can contact the team now at the following link: https://www.sglcarbon.com/anmeldung-jec.

On March 4, 2020, the SGL Carbon stand will host its traditional get-together for customers and friends starting at 4 p.m. – no registration necessary.
 

Sicomin has partnered with GREENBOATS® on the supply of GreenPoxy® bio-based resins for the FLAX 27 - the most complete natural fibre composite project realised by GREENBOATS® to date. Sicomin’s hand lamination and infusion production processes have been optimized for natural fibre composites, providing an uncompromising performance.

GREENBOATS® has been producing innovative natural fibre composites at their Bremen facility for more than a decade, expertly crafting a range of marine and industrial products with a mission to use 100% renewable and sustainable raw materials in sandwich composite structures.  

The FLAX 27 is an 8.2m classically styled daysailer designed by renowned naval architects Judel/Vrolijk & Co. The hull, deck and internal structure of the vessel were infused with Sicomin’s very low viscosity GreenPoxy® InfuGreen 810 resin and flax fibre reinforcement fabrics.  

Vacuum infusion with Sicomin’s InfuGreen 810, produced crystal-clear natural fibre laminates with outstanding mechanical properties, whilst the closed mould process also improved working conditions in the factory. Available with a choice of hardeners to adjust the curing time as required, InfuGreen 810 also carries DNV-GL approval, providing a reassuring 3rd party confirmation of the product’s exceptional quality, performance and consistency.
GREENBOATS® typically apply a bespoke lifecycle assessment tool to optimize their projects for performance as well as sustainability. This detailed view of a project’s environmental impact and GREENBOATS® expertise in product development has now created a number of larger scale composite applications for bio-based resins.

Sicomin are looking forward to continuing to work alongside GREENBOATS® in 2020, with industrial production capacity for their market leading range of GreenPoxy® bio-based epoxies positioning the company to support the forecasted large scale growth in the natural fibre composite market.

“Our goal is to really get people excited about Natural Fibre Composites. Sicomin’s GreenPoxy® products help us create sustainable composites with no compromise in performance or appearance.” commented GREENBOATS® founder Friedrich Johann Deimann.

The GREENBOATS® FLAX 27 will be on display on the JEC planets at JEC World 2020 Paris from 3 to 5 March 2020.
 

The Oerlikon Manmade Fibers segment will be presenting itself at the Egy Stitch & Tex 2020 between March 5 and 8, 2020 in Cairo – with a clear focus on the needs of the African market. In Hall 1, Stand B2 The Oerlikon Barmag and Oerlikon Neumag experts will also be showcasing the comprehensive product and service portfolio of the world market leader for manmade fiber systems at the stand of Oerlikon’s representative ATAG Export & Import.

The spotlight of the Oerlikon Manmade Fibers segment’s trade fair attendance will be on two core technologies: the new generation of Oerlikon Barmag eAFK Evo texturing machines is to be unveiled within the African market for the very first time. It promises higher speeds and productivity with consistently high product quality, along with lower energy consumption and simpler operation vis-à-vis comparable market solutions. In particular, the numerous value-added features include two that convince with cutting-edge technology: the optimized, innovative EvoHeater and the EvoCooler, a completely newly-developed active cooling unit.

The second technology focus offers new opportunities for the Egyptian market and the Middle Eastern markets in particular: with Oerlikon Neumag’s BCF S8 monocolor and tricolor system, the segment will be unveiling its new carpet yarn production flagship. Superlative spinning speeds, up to 700 individual filaments, finer titers of up to 2.5 dpf – the performance data and technological finesse of the new system have already made a huge impression at numerous trade fairs and roadshows over the past year. The tricolor’s core component is the new, patent-pending Color Pop Compacting unit (CPC-T) for even more flexible and more even color separation. With the CPC-T, individually-controllable air pressures for each color provide pre-tangling, which accentuates the colors and hence makes more than 200,000 different shades possible. Whereas it has been very difficult to manufacture strongly color-separated or color-accentuated BCF yarns from polyamide 6 to date, this will in future be possible thanks to the CPC-T system. As a result of the new design, the CPC-T is now also suitable for processes with low yarn tensions.
 
Expanded product offering for manufacturing carpet yarns
Know-how covering all relevant technologies deployed in manmade fiber spinning plants enables Oerlikon – as the world’s only manufacturer – to expand its range of products and services for making carpet yarns. The POY- and texturing-based system concept is designed for a carpet and home textiles segment that demands particularly soft and bulky polyester yarns with BCF-like properties. Here, the aim is to produce yarns with titers of max. 1300dtex and typically more than 1,000 filaments, with typical products including, for example, 1300dtex f1152, 660dtex f1152 and 990dtex f768. The machine concept comprises the well-known WINGS HD POY winder, along with the eAFK Big-V texturing machine.

The integrated sustainable network making fashion circular, Made in Italy and 100% traceable

World leading textile manufacturer Manteco presents its sustainable path for a better future: The Manteco System. A strategy and a vision shaping the company’s sustainable imprint since 1943. The system consists in the development and engineering of a production network involving 100 partner-companies from the whole supply chain “We all team up responsibly to create premium collection based on transparent , traceable  circular economy practices,” comments Matteo Mantellassi, co-CEO of Manteco.
 
To achieve meeting the demand for fair and sustainable fashion that consumers believe in, and is expected  from our clients, the company and its partners have created and accomplished to a Protocol of Sustainable Values and Commitments in line with the highest standards of the global market.

“On a hand, the protocol preserves the unique ‘genius loci’ of our territory – it respects the heritage of all our partners, from the smaller businesses to the more structured ones - on the other hand, it works like a shared compass of sustainable values, allowing the whole supply chain behind Manteco products to stand out and be competitive on the global stage” adds Mantellassi.
 
The protocol and its monitored and traceable system cover virtuous management of resources – e.g. Water, energy and chemical products - waste management and low production impact on the environment but also responsible standards in terms of employment, quality of the working environment, equal rights and anti-discrimination policies.

One of the key  results of such commitment and sustainable development is the creation of an upgraded version of the recycled wool  MWool™: a top ingredient made from premium recycled wool process guaranteed by the Manteco System.The System works like a symphony where management, measurement and controls  are not there just to test  the quality of each single phase of processes or  products , but to make sure and offer the complete traceability of Manteco production.  From raw material, to yarn, spinning, finishing, testing and final fabric.

Some productions tips about Manteco:

•  5.3 million kg of raw materials processed annually.
•  6.860 tests on raw material per year.
•  34.400 tests on finished products.
•  100% made in Italy system completely based in the Prato district since 1943.
•  Total transparency and traceability thanks to a highly skilled management system.

With a turnover of over 91m Euro in 2019 and an annual growth of 17,80% since 2012, Manteco SpA is the 4th textile company in Italy, listed in the TOP30 companies of the Italian fashion system. “The unique Manteco system adds value to our products while highlighting the sustainable path we share with all our partners both upstream and downstream”.