From the Sector

BTMA member Tatham has just delivered an advanced industrial hemp processing line to a major customer in Turkey and had many fruitful discussions about its machinery for the processing of natural staple fibres at the recent ITMA 2023 held in Milan from June 8-14.

The Bradford, UK-based company continues to equip mills around the world with staple fibre spinning and nonwoven technologies for manufacturing a wide range of products, while its TS system for drives and controls is suitable for retrofitting to all OEM textile machines, to provide user-friendly control systems with complete synchronisation and significant energy savings.

“We are currently fielding a lot of enquiries for technologies for the decortication, fibre opening and fabric forming of hemp,” said Tatham director Tim Porritt. “This is being driven by the sustainability of the fibre and concerns over climate change as brands seek solutions to meet their sustainability goals. As a result, there has been an explosion in the interest in hemp production, from farmers through to fibre production, and a wide range of new potential end-uses are being explored.”

Tatham offers a complete ‘Field to Fibre’ service for industrial hemp fibre production and its decortication and cleaning process has a gentle opening action to maintain the fibre length, to make it suitable for subsequent processing.

From June 8 to 14, 2023, the leading international trade fair for textile machinery manufacturing ITMA took place in Milan, Italy. In total, over 111,000 guests visited the trade fair. Groz-Beckert was able to present its innovations to more than 7,000 customers and business partners, as well as welcoming many other visitors to its booth – including over 280 students.

An international audience gathered at the Groz-Beckert booth: guests came from 84 different countries. The majority of visitors came from Italy with just under 15 percent, followed by Germany with 14 percent, Turkey with 11 percent, India with 9 percent and the USA with 3 percent. For the first time, HR specialists were on hand at the Groz-Beckert booth to look after the student groups, offering the young people comprehensive insights together with experts from the Technology and Development Center (TEZ).

Groz-Beckert presented numerous innovations from its six product divisions Knitting, Weaving, Felting, Tufting, Carding and Sewing at the ITMA. One focus of the innovations was on the topics of efficiency, process stability and sustainability. While the topic of sustainability was reflected in the products on the one hand, a separate area in the Groz-Beckert Gallery was dedicated to the topic on the other. Here it was shown what contribution Groz-Beckert is making to making its own productions and its sites sustainable.

MAS Holdings, a global apparel & textile manufacturing and tech conglomerate, headquartered in Sri Lanka, secures a stake in HeiQ AeoniQ™ as part of its Plan for Change initiative to support the development of next-generation cellulosic filament fibers to replace polyester and nylon.

HeiQ from Switzerland and MAS Holdings entered a partnership for MAS to secure a stake in HeiQ AeoniQ GmbH, a subsidiary of HeiQ Group that will produce HeiQ AeoniQ™, a climate-positive cellulosic yarn.

With this investment, MAS Holdings becomes the first manufacturer to partner with HeiQ AeoniQ™ in their efforts to provide a sustainable alternative to polyester and nylon. The investment to be made by MAS Holdings is part of the group’s strategy to drive a positive environmental impact. The MAS Plan for Change aims to generate 50% of the company’s revenue through sustainable products by 2025, revolutionizing the textile industry with a focus on innovation, sustainable sourcing, and pioneering circularity at scale.

With the closing of this deal, HeiQ and MAS agreed to a 5-year Offtake Agreement for 3,000 tons of HeiQ AeoniQ™ yarn in 2025 and 5,000 tons per year from 2026 to 2029, valued by HeiQ in the aggregate to US$ 100 million. MAS will finalize this commitment within a stipulated time period after achieving milestone 1, and a mutual plan for commercialization. HeiQ and MAS firmly believe that rapid scaling is key to facilitating the fast adoption of sustainable, circular technologies such as HeiQ AeoniQ™.

The HeiQ AeoniQ™ pilot plant in Austria is manufacturing this revolutionary continuous cellulosic filament yarn since Q3 2022, with up to a 100 tons capacity to be upscaled up to 300 tons by the end of 2023.

The HeiQ AeoniQ™ production scale-up is planned to have its definitive boost by early 2026 with the construction of an entirely new gigafactory capable of a 30,000-ton output per year, in a 250M USD estimated investment.

Polyester and nylon, two oil-based fibers, virtually non-recyclable, account for about 70% of all the global textile production, they take between 350 to 1000 years to degrade in nature, are currently close loop recycled at less than 1%, and are at the origin of 35% of the microplastics that can be found in today's oceans. HeiQ AeoniQ™ was innovated and is being hyper-scaled up to change this course of action.

Kornit Digital LTD. announced Amaze Software, Inc. – parent company of the Amaze, Spring, and Outfts platforms – has selected KornitX Workflow Solutions and Kornit MAX digital on- demand fabric and textile decoration technologies as the platform to deliver their vision. Combined with the Amaze Creator Commerce Platform, the companies will jointly bring the power of on- demand production and fulfillment to new and existing social media creators, enabling them to better monetize branded products.

Kornit’s Global Fulfillment Network helps companies like Amaze Software connect creators with high-quality garment and textile production fulfillers across the globe. The platform is backed by the KornitX workflow engine, seamlessly integrating across industry-proven Kornit MAX technology- based fabric and textile decoration systems for end-to-end production, visibility, and control.

The  Spring platform offers an opportunity for fans to make purchases directly from where they consume the creator’s content (social platforms including Instagram, TikTok Shops, Twitch, and more). This allows creators to significantly enhance engagement and cultivate a more profound brand presence.

ERCA successfully showcased their latest product during the recent ITMA 2023 exhibition, taking the opportunity to share with ITMA visitors the journey that stood behind the creation of REVECOL®.

REVECOL® transforms critical waste materials (exhausted vegetable oils) into a line of innovative and responsible chemical auxiliaries destined for the entire textile industry and its various applications, offering different characteristics: circular DNA, certification, safety, high performance, competitivity and applicability on any type of textile fiber, whether virgin or recycled.

Patagonia® and trim supplier YKK teamed up with ERCA to deploy REVECOL® in their manufacturing process. This alliance was presented to ITMA visitors as an example of what the industry can achieve through collaborative practices.

The process of sharing REVECOL® with the industry really started with the announcement of ERCA’s partnership with Patagonia® and YKK and deepened during the session Upcycling Minds Think Alike moderated by Giusy Bettoni, CEO and Founder, C.L.A.S.S. (Creativity, Lifestyle and Sustainable Synergy), and which saw the participation of Matt Swartz, Color and Material Quality Manager of Patagonia®, Fabio Locatelli, Head of ERCA, Textile Specialties Business Unit and Mike Maekawa, Sales and Business Development Manager, YKK Vietnam.

After nearly 30 years with the company, Matthew North, Commercial Director at the viscose specialty fibre manufacturer Kelheim Fibres, will retire on July 1, 2023. Throughout his long and successful career, he has played a significant role in transforming Kelheim Fibres from a supplier of standard fibres to the European textile industry into a supplier of predominantly customized specialty fibres for the hygiene, specialty paper, and textile industries.

Mark von der Becke will assume the position of Sales Director and become part of the management team at Kelheim Fibres. The 48-year-old brings extensive experience in sales, marketing, and key account management. He has held various leadership positions in renowned companies such as Hoechst, Clariant, and DS Smith in Germany, Switzerland, and China. He is known for successfully developing and implementing strategy and change programs.

Dr. Marina Crnoja-Cosic, who has been serving as Director of New Business Development and a member of the management team at Kelheim Fibres since 2020, will take on the responsibility for marketing and communications. She will now drive the further development of the marketing strategy and communication with customers and partners.

Archroma, a leader in specialty chemicals towards sustainable solutions, and Somelos, a vertically integrated textile group in Portugal, have joined forces to advance sustainable cotton processing with a new water-saving dyeing and finishing process that generates no wastewater.

Conventional cotton dyeing and finishing requires substantial water and chemical inputs and produces a large volume of wastewater. Long-lasting wash-down effects in particular, traditionally require two water-intensive processes: one to get the color intensity and one to achieve the washed-down contrast. Relying on such resource-intensive processes is of particular concern in nations affected by drought and water scarcity, like Portugal, the home of Somelos since its founding in 1958.

To address this challenge, Archroma and Somelos have now developed the New Dry Dyeing/Ox Finishing process for the production of bottoms and shirting in cotton fabrics. Based on Archroma’s Pad-Ox dyeing process, which combines oxidation and fixation into one step, and the latest technologies for washdown effects, including ozone and laser treatments, it delivers water savings of up to 97% compared to conventional cotton dyeing and finishing.

The New Dry Dyeing/Ox Finishing process only uses water to prepare the dye and oxidation baths. Archroma Diresul® RDT liquid pre-reduced sulfur dyes ensure easy washdown and direct fixation—with no need for pre-washing—delivering shorter processing, cleaner production and high wash -fastness.

The Sorting for Circularity USA consortium project welcomes new partners and expands its North American geographical scope. Fashion for Good is pleased to announce the addition of lululemon as an external brand partner, joining the existing seven brand partners. They also welcome their new implementation partners Helpsy, United Southern Waste Material, Goodwill Industries International Inc., and its members Goodwill of Colorado, Goodwill Industries-Suncoast, Inc., Goodwill of the Finger Lakes, and Goodwill of San Francisco Bay. Additionally, Fashion for Good is pleased to recognise adidas as the project's lead sponsor, facilitating the complete realisation of the project scope.

Fashion for Good, together with Resource Recycling Systems, launched the Sorting for Circularity USA consortium project in January 2023. The project will conduct an extensive consumer survey to map the journey of a garment from closet to end of use, and present a comprehensive snapshot of textile waste composition generated in the United States. The insights gained from this 18-month project will help to scale collection, sorting, and recycling innovations and inform decisions on necessary investments and actions.

Within the first 6 months, the project has expanded to cover 6 key states: California, Texas, Florida, New York, New Jersey and Colorado. Additional implementation partners have also signed on to support the fibre composition data analysis: Secondary Materials and Recycled Textiles (SMART) Association, Helpsy, United Southern Waste Material, and Goodwill Industries International Inc., with its members Goodwill of Colorado, Goodwill Industries-Suncoast, Inc., Goodwill of the Finger Lakes, and Goodwill of San Francisco Bay. Resource Recycling Systems will drive the dissemination and analysis of the consumer survey together with New York State Center for Sustainable Materials Management and Syracuse University Center for Sustainable Community Solutions, and execute the textile composition analysis using Matoha’s near infrared devices with advisory support from Circle Economy.

Demonstrating the importance of pre-competitive collaboration in tackling the industry’s biggest challenges, lululemon joins Eastman, H&M and Nordstrom as key project partners, together with Fashion for Good corporate partners adidas, Inditex, Levi Strauss & Co., and Target. Adidas' lead sponsorship ensures a deeper analysis of USA textile waste infrastructure and the identification of valuable opportunities for advancement.

In the USA, textile waste is the fastest-growing segment of the country's waste stream, with 85% of discarded textiles ending up in landfills*. Understanding the composition of material, volume and location of used textiles is crucial for capturing them and sorting them for the best and highest quality end use. Moreover, the range of national and regional geographies within the Sorting for Circularity project series enables for nuanced cross-country comparisons - revealing differences in the textile waste generated and infrastructure required.

Sorting for Circularity, a framework co-developed by Fashion for Good and Circle Economy, aims to (re)capture textile waste by unlocking the feedstock potential for recycling, expedite the implementation of game changing automated sorting technologies such as near-infrared spectroscopy and advanced textile-to-textile recycling, and drive circularity within the fashion value chain. The project builds on the success of Sorting for Circularity Europe and India, which revealed insights on material composition, volume, and location of used textiles and provided a solid foundation to accelerate textile recycling in those respective geographical locations.

*United States Environmental Protection Agency (2019). National Overview: Facts and Figures on Materials, Wastes and Recycling.

At ITMA 2023, EFI™ Reggiani is presenting its sustainable Reggiani ecoTERRA pigment printing line up, the high-speed EFI Reggiani HYPER and Reggiani BOLT XS direct-to-fabric printing solutions, and EFI Inèdit end-to-end digital textile workflows.

The EFI Reggiani ecoTERRA solution is an all-in-one solution for water-based pigment printing that requires no ancillary equipment for pre- and post-treatment. By reducing water, energy and chemicals consumption in the overall process, customers can now obtain a sustainable, direct-to-fabric printing solution. For the first time at ITMA, EFI Reggiani is presenting its full ecoTERRA line up of four models, including a 340 printing width, with speeds ranging from 150 to 600 sqm/hour. This allows customers to choose the best TCO/ROI based on output volume and speed range.
 
Reggiani ecoTERRA water-based pigment inks deliver excellent wet and dry fastness properties, sharpness in detail, and durability while also ensuring printhead longevity with reduced maintenance costs. Thanks to the enhanced polymerisation and finishing unit, EFI Reggiani ecoTERRA also provides an enhanced tactile experience and fabric softness.
 
In addition to highlighting EFI Reggiani’s sustainable product offering, the company will also demonstrate the significant productivity and efficiency advantages offered by its portfolio of high-speed, high-performance digital textile printers at ITMA 2023. Attendees will discover how mass production can transition to a digital, on-demand workflow with the high speeds and high print quality of the EFI Reggiani HYPER scanning printer and the next-generation EFI Reggiani BOLT XS single-pass textile printer.

Visitors to the booth also will see EFI Reggiani’s new proprietary end-to-end digital printing workflow and the latest enhancements to EFI Inèdit digital textile software. Inèdit, now part of EFI Reggiani, is one of the leading developers of raster image processors (RIPs) and related software for digital industrial textile printing. The EFI Reggiani end-to-end workflow with Inèdit integration boosts productivity and production capabilities for digital textile print operations while ensuring maximum security for customer’s designs thanks to two-level encryption.
 
EFI Reggiani QUERY, the user-friendly, advanced data analysis tool to measure printer performance, keep track of real costs per metre, and monitor water and energy consumption, will also be demonstrated.

Archroma, a leader in specialty chemicals towards sustainable solutions, is teaming up with COLOURizd™, an innovator specializing in sustainable textile dyeing technologies, to set a new standard for the eco-friendlier production of sustainable textiles.

The new collaboration will enable fabric mills and brands to combine Archroma pigment coloration solutions with the COLOURizd™ QuantumCOLOUR™ yarn-coloring technology to produce high-quality, high-performance textiles with maximum consumer appeal and minimal environmental impact.

Conventional fiber-reactive methods of dyeing cellulosic and synthetic yarns are multi-step resource-intensive processes that use up to 95 liters of water per kilograms of colored yarn and discharge approximately 94 liters of effluent.

In contrast, the innovative QuantumCOLOUR™ process injects pigment and a binder directly into the yarn, using only 0.95 liters of water per kilograms of colored yarn while producing zero effluent. This represents an unprecedented reduction of 98% in water consumption alongside zero wastewater discharge, zero discharge of harmful chemicals, 73% decrease in carbon footprint and 50% reduction in energy use.*

With Archroma, textile manufacturers and apparel brands can add further value to the QuantumCOLOUR™ process with tailor-made system solutions, including JUST COLOR. This formaldehyde-free** pigment coloration system is based on Archroma’s revolutionary Printofix® pigment dispersions and Helizarin® binders to deliver exceptionally soft fabrics with high fastness and durability, while also enabling energy and chemical savings and higher productivity.

* As tested by Peterson Control Union
** Below limits of detection according to industry standard test methods