From the Sector

Many end-users now expect recycled materials to be in textile products they purchase – and this is driving innovation throughout the industry. However, there are still many technical and economic issues facing yarn and fabric producers using recycled resources. Members of the Swiss Textile Machinery Association offer some effective solutions to these challenges.

Synthetic recycled materials such as PET can usually be treated similarly to new yarn, but there are additional complexities where natural fibres like wool and cotton are involved. Today, there’s a trend towards mechanically recycled wool and cotton fibres.

Spinning recycled cotton
The use of mechanically recycled fibres in spinning brings specific quality considerations: they have higher levels of short fibres and neps – and may often be colored, particularly if post-consumer material is used. It’s also true that recycled yarns have limitations in terms of fineness. The Uster Statistics 2023 edition features an extended range of fibre data, supporting sustainability goals, including benchmarks for blends of virgin and recycled cotton.
In general, short fibres such as those in recycled material can easily be handled by rotor spinning machines. For ring spinning, the shorter the fibres, the more difficult it is to guide them through the drafting zone to integrate them into the yarn body. Still, for wider yarn counts and higher yarn quality, the focus is now shifting to ring spinning. The presence of short fibres is a challenge, but Rieter offers solutions to address this issue.

Knitting recycled wool
For recycling, wool fibres undergo mechanical procedures such as shredding, cutting, and re-spinning, influencing the quality and characteristics of the resulting yarn. These operations remove the natural scales and variations in fibre length of the wool, causing a decrease in the overall strength and durability of the recycled yarn. This makes the yarn more prone to breakage, especially under the tension exerted during knitting.

Adapting to process recycled materials often requires adjustments to existing machinery. Knitting machines must be equipped with positive yarn suppliers to control fibre tension. Steiger engages in continuous testing of new yarns on the market, to check their suitability for processing on knitting machines. For satisfactory quality, the challenges intensify, with natural yarns requiring careful consideration and adaptation in the knitting processes.

From fibres to nonwovens
Nonwovens technology was born partly from the idea of recycling to reduce manufacturing costs and to process textile waste and previously unusable materials into fabric structures. Nonwovens production lines, where fibre webs are bonded mechanically, thermally or chemically, can easily process almost all mechanically and chemically recycled fibres.

Autefa Solutions offers nonwovens lines from a single source, enabling products such as liners, wipes, wadding and insulation to be produced in a true closed loop. Fibres are often used up to four times for one product.

Recycling: total strategy
Great services, technology and machines from members of Swiss Textile Machinery support the efforts of the circular economy to process recycled fibres. The machines incorporate the know-how of several decades, with the innovative power and quality standards in production and materials.
Stäubli’s global ESG (environmental, social & governance) strategy defines KPIs in the context of energy consumption, machine longevity and the recycling capacity in production units worldwide, as well in terms of machinery recyclability. The machine recyclability of automatic drawing in machines, weaving systems and jacquard machines ranges from 96 to 99%.

In a judgment in December 2023, the Supreme People’s Court of the People’s Republic of China ruled in favor of Rieter in a legal dispute. The case concerned the infringement of a Rieter patent by a competitor’s draw frame. Rieter protects its innovations with patents and registered designs and consistently takes action against infringements of its intellectual property.

Rieter draw frames are known for their stable operation with high sliver quality and productivity. Scanning precision and autoleveling dynamics ensure outstanding sliver evenness and thus the production of high-quality yarns. Draw frames have also been the subject of a patent litigation by Rieter in China at various levels of jurisdiction. Rieter had sued a competitor for unauthorized use of its patented draw frame technology.

In the summer of 2022, the Shanghai Intellectual Property Court confirmed the patent infringement identified by Rieter and prohibited the accused competitor from continuing to use Rieter’s patented technology. The infringing party was also ordered to pay damages to Rieter.

The culpable competitor then appealed the decision of the Shanghai court to the Supreme People’s Court of the People’s Republic of China.

In December 2023, the Supreme Court of China in Beijing upheld the Shanghai decision, confirming that the patent had been infringed. As a result, Rieter’s competitor is prohibited from selling the infringing machine types and is required to pay the damages determined by the court.

This Supreme Court decision represents a major success for Rieter in defending its proprietary technologies in China. It is further proof that foreign companies can effectively defend their intellectual property in China.

As the technology leader in spinning machinery manufacturing, Rieter invests around 5% of its turnover annually in research and development. Rieter protects its innovative products with patents and registered designs and takes consistent action against infringements of industrial property rights.

In January 2024, ERCA Textile Chemical Solutions TCS was launched as an independent entity within the ERCA Group.

The decision to make ERCA TCS a separate company stems from the desire to focus exclusively on solutions for the textile industry and to build an agile entity oriented towards responsible research and production, while continuing to leverage a solid productive and financial background from ERCA S.p.A.

ERCA TCS aims to be the unique and innovative point of reference for textile companies in terms of products and services specifically designed for the needs of a sector that is currently facing challenges and opportunities related to sustainability and responsible production.

ERCA TCS bases its activity on the principles of "green chemistry" to offer the textile industry chemical solutions that make concrete the concepts of safety, performance, and circularity. Its flagship product - REVECOL® - is born from critical waste materials (used vegetable oils) and present in abundance, which through a process attentive to environmental compatibility and safety, are transformed into a line of innovative, certified, high-performance chemical auxiliaries usable by the entire textile industry.

ERCA Group has six plants in three macro-regions: Europe, Latin America, and Asia and produces chemical specialties and auxiliaries with an approach of responsible innovation. Its production covers several markets: textile, cosmetics, polyurethanes, concrete. It has a turnover of 150 million euros and employs 350 people worldwide, 100 of whom are in the sole Grassobbio plant.

Avery Dennison, a leader in materials science and digital identifications solutions, has completed a project with NRVLD, a community-based agency comprising artists, technologists and media personalities who are passionate about disruptive innovation.

Avery Dennison created limited edition augmented reality T-shirts worn by the NRVLD Executive Team during ‘NRVLD’, an immersive event held during Art Basel Miami Beach in December 2023.

The 30 T-shirts were digitally connected via heat transfers featuring a QR code and image recognition. Visitors were transported to an immersive artwork metaverse, built by ARkivist. In addition to the AR experience, each garment was personalized with the wearer's contact details embedded in the NFC woven patch on the chest, providing a connection point for guests throughout the event. Both connected garment experiences were powered by Avery Dennison’s atma.io connected product cloud.

Avery Dennison will be showcasing this project at NRF 2024: Retail’s Big Show, from January 14-16 at the Javits Convention Center in New York. The connected T-shirts will feature alongside a host of apparel digital solutions for supply chain visibility, product tracking, and consumer engagement.

Michael Colarossi, vice president, innovation, product line management and sustainability, Apparel Solutions, Avery Dennison comments: “The trajectory of consumer experiences unmistakably leans towards digital, and brands are actively seeking innovative methods to engage consumers by merging traditional craftsmanship with digital creativity. In this scenario, AR acted as the conduit, and Avery Dennison's connected garment technology and on-garment Embelex branding turned that vision into tangible reality."

Pavan Bahl, founder of Bellwether Culture and co-founder NRVLD, comments: "In the Web3 sphere, blockchain technology enables ownership of digital goods and identity. Our collaboration with Avery Dennison showcases the potential of bridging this gap, illustrating the exciting possibilities in this space."

CARBIOS, a pioneer in the development and industrialization of biological technologies to reinvent the life cycle of plastic and textiles, has received an initial payment of €1.2 million from the French Agency for Ecological Transition (ADEME) for the OPTI-ZYME research project, carried out in partnership with INRAE2, INSA3 and CNRS4 via the TWB5 joint service and TBI6 research units, a project co-funded by the French State as part of France 2030 operated by ADEME. With CARBIOS' aim to optimize and continuously improve its unique enzymatic PET depolymerization technology, the 4-year7 OPTI-ZYME project aims to investigate the scientific and technical levers for improving the competitiveness of the process, optimizing the necessary investments and reducing its environmental footprint.

This collaborative R&D program focuses on the technical and economic optimization of process stages, while preserving the quality of the monomers obtained. These optimizations, new developments and the exploration of innovative solutions should enhance the technology's flexibility with regards to incoming waste. Raw materials could come from different sources that are currently rarely or not recycled, notably food trays and textiles, or a mix of incoming materials. It also aims to limit input and water consumption, as well as regenerate or reduce co-products and ultimate residual waste. Finally, it seeks to support enzyme optimization to maximize the process’ economic profitability and competitiveness.

The project therefore aims to achieve an overall improvement in performance, combining efficiency, quality and environmental sustainability, to benefit the Longlaville plant which is currently under construction, and future licensed plants.

In May 2023, CARBIOS, the project leader and coordinator, announced that it had been awarded a total of €11.4M in funding by the French State as part of France 2030, operated by ADEME, including €8.2M directly for CARBIOS (€3.2M in grants and €5M in repayable advances) and €3.2M for its academic partners INRAE, INSA and CNRS (via the TWB mixed service and TBI research units). This funding, which is made up of grants and repayable advances, will be paid out in several instalments over the course of the project, including an initial instalment of 15%, equivalent to €1.2 million, received by CARBIOS on 5 December 2023. The first Monitoring Committee with ADEME for the first key stage of the project will be held in February 2024 to validate the granting of the second instalment of funding.

This project 2282D0513-A is funded by the French State as part of France 2030 operated by ADEME.

Suedwolle Group introduces ACTIVEYARN®, the company’s first seasonless corporate collection: ACTIVEYARN® is composed of a selection of weaving, flat and circular knitting, hosiery and technical yarns, with advanced spinning technologies, wool blends and other natural and traceable fibres. It is a seasonless collection of yarns suitable for different occasions, to support everyone’s attitude and style.

This idea is expressed by the concept of “Get active”, which is not just about using Suedwolle Group’s products in sports applications, but about a new mindset, a changing perspective. By taking a fresh look at the company’s wide offer, ACTIVEYARN® provides new opportunities and inspiration to explore Suedwolle Group’s full potential in terms of technology, sustainability and innovations. It considers with a new point of view on the collections for knitting, weaving and technical uses, creating new connections among them and offering a mosaic of new possibilities and versatile combinations.

This theme of the collection and the new mindset may be represented in the concept of a “kaleidoscope”, symbol of the active change inspiring Suedwolle Group’s creativity.

The yarns in the ACTIVEYARN® collection embody the company’s six strategic pillars of innovation – sustainability, circularity, traceability, design, performance and technology – drivers of the entire process of design and production.

Jasmin GOTS Nm 2/48 (100% wool 19,5 μ X-CARE) is a natural, renewable and biodegradable yarn with GOTS certification that meets the company’s demand for sustainability. X-CARE, the innovative treatment by Suedwolle Group, uses eco-friendly and chlorine-free substances that make wool environmentally friendly and suitable for easy-care quality.

Tirano Betaspun® RWS FSC (41,5% wool 17,2 μ TEC RWS certified, 41,5% LENZING™Lyocell 1,4 dtex 17% polyamide filament 22 dtex GRS certified) is a fully traceable high performance yarn, suitable for sportswear and activewear.

OTW® Midway GRS Nm 2/60 (60% wool 23,5 μ X-CARE, 40% polyamide 3,3 dtex GRS certified) comes from the recycling of pre-consumer polyamide and thus is a perfect example of circular production. Suitable for weaving, it combines the added performance that comes from our OTW® patented technology applied to a high durability blend, ideal for active garments.

Wallaby Betaspun® Nm 1/60 (87,5% wool 18,4 μ TEC, 12,5% polyamide filament 22 dtex) is the result of application of latest-generation Betaspun® technology to a natural fibre like wool, allowing production of fine yarns with extra strength and abrasion resistance, ideal for seamless and wrap knitting.

Banda TEC X-Compact Nm 2/47 (100% wool 17,2 μ TEC) is a 100% natural, renewable and biodegradable yarn benefitting from the innovative X-Compact, permitting production of particularly linear yarns ideal for clean design and fabrics appropriate for today’s fashions.

Caprera GRS Nm 1/60 (45% wool 19,3 μ Non mulesed X-CARE 55% COOLMAX® EcoMade polyester 2,2 dtex GRS certified) increases the performance of the wool-based non mulesed fibre through combination with COOLMAX® EcoMade polyester. This is a material coming from recycling of post-consumer PET bottles, dyeable at low temperatures, that aids evaporation of moisture from the skin to maintain stable body temperature, enhancing the comfort of activewear and urban garments.

Twice a year ISPO recognizes innovative fibers, fabrics and components that are used to manufacture sports apparel. Two innovations from Hologenix have scored wins in the ISPO Textrends Fall/Winter 2025/2026 Awards: CELLIANT® with REPREVE® Nylon, introduced with textile solutions provider UNIFI®, makers of REPREVE®, and CELLIANT® Print. They were both Selections in the Fibers & Insulations Category.

CELLIANT with REPREVE Nylon
CELLIANT with REPREVE Nylon consists of CELLIANT infrared (IR) technology embedded into REPREVE. REPREVE creates high-quality fibers made from 100% recycled materials, including post-consumer plastic bottles and preconsumer waste. CELLIANT with REPREVE Nylon is strong and durable with great stretch and a silky hand. It is ideal for underwear, stockings, tights/leggings, socks, seamless knits, baselayers and many other categories. With CELLIANT’s ability to convert body heat into infrared energy, improving local circulation and cellular oxygenation, it also provides performance for outdoor/sportswear, outerwear, swimwear among other categories. This is the second carrier type for CELLIANT with REPREVE, as it was introduced in polyester last fall and won three awards.

CELLIANT Print
CELLIANT Print makes the natural blend of IR-generating bioceramic minerals more widely available from Hologenix as a printed coating, expanding the uses of the technology. Traditionally, CELLIANT has been embedded directly into fibers, yarns and fabrics. However, for its print applications, CELLIANT fine mineral powder can be adhered to many different fabric types as a topical coating, making CELLIANT Print a versatile and cost-effective solution. Key CELLIANT partners, such as Under Armour with their UA RUSH™ line, and KT Tape with its PRO Oxygen™ kinesiology tape utilize CELLIANT Print. Safe and CELLIANT® Print CELLIANT® with REPREVE® Nylon durable, CELLIANT Print has undergone mechanical testing for wash tests and can be confirmed to last the useful life of the product, for 50+ washes.

In cooperation with the Swiss company Haelixa, Oerlikon Manmade Fibers Solutions will, in future, be able to make the entire value chain of a textile end product transparent and hence sustainable. The two development partners are offering a solution for the comprehensive traceability of products, as required by the European Green Deal.

An essential part of the solution is the DNA marker technology developed by Haelixa that enables complete traceability of materials. These markers survive all production process steps, validating that the end product is identifiable. "This innovative technology employs distinct DNA tailored for each project, establishing a unique identity for the material," explains Holly Berger, Marketing Director at Haelixa. "Once the DNA is integrated into the material, it becomes irremovable, impervious to falsification or alteration." Handling is straightforward: the DNA marker is fed into the spinning process with the preparation oil, for example. The preparation system is modified accordingly. Further feeding options are currently being developed.

Smart factory: total transparency with atmos.io
The concept is complemented by atmos.io, Oerlikon's digital platform, which records and evaluates extensive production and process data during the yarn manufacturing process. Atmos.io gives the yarn its digital identity during its time on Oerlikon systems, from the melt to the packaged package. This technology has been used successfully for some time to monitor the production process. With atmos.io, deviations in process parameters and yarn data can be identified and rectified within a very short time, which in turn keeps the yarn quality stable and reduces waste rates.

Combining both technologies enables clear traceability of the yarn produced, even in the downstream process steps. Hence, the yarn's components, qualities, manufacturing conditions, and origin are traced beyond doubt in the finished garment. "The unique DNA carries the 'roots' of the yarn digitally recorded in atmos.io into the everyday life of the end consumer," says Jochen Adler, CTO at Oerlikon Manmade Fibers. The textile end products meet the requirements of the digital product passport required by the EU, which contains the information needed to assess their life cycle assessment and circularity. Initial long-term tests have shown 100% traceability of the yarns in the POY and FDY spinning process. If the yarn manufacturer relies on the atmos.io platform, production systems can be adapted relatively easily to use the DNA markers.

The global fashion retailer H&M has joined forces with Coloreel to introduce a pioneering approach to customized embroidery. This new partnership allows customers at the H&M Alexa store in Berlin to personalize their apparel with a myriad of expressive designs.

The program marks the start of a new and innovative in-store pilot developed by H&Mbeyond. Customers can select from a diverse library of designs that will be updated on a weekly basis.

Coloreel redefines the art of embroidery, offering an unlimited spectrum of colors at the touch of a button. The technology reduces wastewater by 97% and utilizes recycled thread, marking a significant step towards more sustainable production.

“Our partnership with Coloreel reflects our commitment to enhance the shopping experience through innovative solutions,” states Oliver Lange, Head of H&Mbeyond. “By embracing this advanced technology, we can offer our customers a unique and engaging store visit."

With the collaboration, H&M and Coloreel want to explore ways to create brick-and-mortar shopping experiences and analyze the influence that a technology like Coloreel’s has on in-store purchases.

The service is offered at the H&M Alexa store in Berlin during Q4 2023. While the service currently extends to products within the store, plans for embroidering customers’ own garments might be added later. This approach would extend the lifespan of garments, creating a positive environmental impact.

Making outdoor sports accessible to as many people as possible since 1976 through quality, innovative gear, powerhouse sporting goods brand Decathlon has launched the first product of its long-term partnership with CELLIANT® infrared technology from Hologenix® – Adult Ski Socks. They are introduced in its Wedze range of ski and snowboarding socks (“wed’ze” means ‘“a small turn on the snow” in the Savoyard dialect in the Alps where this brand is headquartered).  

Decathlon was attracted to CELLIANT’s ability to convert body heat into infrared energy, improving local circulation and cellular oxygenation to support stronger performance and faster recovery. Skiers who often suffer from muscle fatigue in the calf area will appreciate the infrared infusion and light compression attributes that were specifically chosen with this in mind. The sock was also thoughtfully designed for minimum thickness, allowing for a comfortable fit within the ski boot, without sacrificing warmth or durability. Anti-friction thread on the sole and toes helps limit irritation, and seams are intentionally positioned to eliminate discomfort. The socks are offered in a Asphalt Blue color in a variety of sizes, both online and in retail stores worldwide.