From the Sector

Artisan craft, experience and high eco-technological specialization: the great tradition of fabrics for shirts which styles the future.

Search for quality, the ability to interpret elegance and a product inspired by tradition, though always trendy: these are the distinctive traits which define the vocation of Canclini 1925, a point of reference worldwide for shirt fabric manufacturing. This expertise is implemented through dynamic creativity and 100% Made in Italy artisan  craft. These are the foundations which make the history and capability of Canclini 1925 unique, as standard bearer for everlasting style.

All this results from an authentic family tradition which, for three generations, has been the driving force of the company, shaping each collection. This passion is at the service of tireless search in terms of style and technology which underlies the whole Canclini 1925 innovative approach. The goal is to offer, through its fabrics, an inimitable experience, “creating wellbeing” and emotion through touch alone, respecting the environment and humans.

Founded in 1925, Canclini has always been a company able to combine extraordinary creativity and product care, established as a silk factory in the Como region. This tradition was renewed in the 1960s with the shift to the cotton sector, aiming more and more at customer service, developing a partnership and trust relation. Working with Canclini 1925 means reaching into the tradition of a family which has always been passionate about its work, dynamic, creative and focused on continuous innovation.

These are distinctive and qualifying elements in the Canclini 1925 approach. An approach which, in line with the research and development pathway on which the company has always invested substantial resources, also involves considerable attention the topic of environmental and social accountability. This commitment is confirmed by numerous and prestigious certifications in the company portfolio, starting from the careful selection of raw materials to its social commitment. More specifically, Canclini 1925 has been awarded the GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standard), SUPIMA COTTON (the Pima “Gossypium Barbadense” cotton, classified as Extra-long Staple) certifications, following the Standard 100 by OECO-TEX®, BCI (Better Cotton Initiative) and GRS (Global Recycle Standard). A comprehensive range of tools which, combined with its in-house know-how and expertise capital, enhances the portfolio of Canclini 1925 branded innovations.

This accountability approach also encompasses the social area with the association “Un sorriso in più” (“One extra smile”). Founded and managed by the company, it is a non-profit organisation engaged in projects which include assistance in nursing homes to elderly persons without family ties, as well as in the support to children living difficult and disadvantaged family situations, focusing its activity on “human life quality”. The uniqueness generated by this meeting between tradition and innovation is the driving force behind corporate research, as well as the truly distinctive reason for its style and technology development. The high-performance looms and technologies used make the company strong and flexible enough for contemporary market requirements. The trademark passion of the Canclini family completes the picture within which the company operates, true to an approach which is at the same time artisan and high-tech, a point of reference in Italy and worldwide.

Thanks to its substantial manufacturing capacity, Canclini today is present on all of the most influential shirt markets worldwide, and – with its new Blue 1925 line - also in the denim world. In this way the company has succeeded in positioning itself among major players in textile manufacturing, authentically Italian because of its farsighted  business vision, care for details and production flexibility. It is the approach which – over the years - has allowed the group to take over important enterprises in the sector, for example Hausmann-Moos and Profilo Tessile, Maglificio Mida and Grandi & Rubinelli.
According to Simone Canclini, CEO of Canclini 1925: “What characterises the Canclini 1925 spirit is first and foremost genuine passion driven by our inspiring principles: quality, style and service. These elements have allowed us to become and remain a point of reference worldwide, to rediscover the everyday – basic and exciting – emotion of choosing a special shirt”.

• Circularity at the centre

PG DENIM, the designer project by Paolo Gnutti, is ready for several important events scheduled for the autumn with ground-breaking interpretations and a new – increasingly green – business model. The occasion is its participation in the Blue Zone at Munich Fabric Start (Munich, 3-5 September 2019), a space which is increasingly often reserved for companies and projects with a high innovation rate in the world of denim.

PG DENIM at the German exhibition will be presenting important product innovations, but most notably new concepts developed for the S/S 2021 season. The focus here is on circularity, seen from a dual perspective: the product with the no longer traditional alternation of seasons, and a sustainabilityoriented approach.

Seasons meet

The new PG DENIM approach is geared towards overlapping seasonality, with less and less marked separations between projects dedicated to the spring-summer and fall-winter lines. The collections by PG DENIM can thus be increasingly defined as a “mix of products without seasonality”. Its focal points are innovation alongside the concept behind the initial idea, as opposed to just the season. This trend, explains Paolo Gnutti, CEO and R&D Head at PG DENIM, is also due to registering the fact that seasonality – in terms of environment and trends – is changing at an increasingly rapid pace. As a response to this situation, the choice has been made to design new collections starting from macro-trends and presenting fabrics for garments which are “easy to wear”, suitable for both warm and cold temperatures, in a true melting pot  of weights and sizes.

The lines for the previous season are thus reintroduced and restyled playing with weights and sizes, within a range where flock meets ultra-light fabric bases, or where vinyl is combined with typically summer weights which shift the fabric towards the world of “paper” with crispy touches, resulting in extraordinarily lightweight and strong items at the same time. Also the GARAGE DENIM has been upgraded with fluid and smoothed touched for garments which are easy to wear and have a strong personality.

Partnership with The Denim Window

The PG DENIM season is also enhanced by its partnership in The Denim Window project, which has resulted in a limited series of Creative Capsule Collections, derived from the idea of bringing together companies which had already worked or were working together, trying to highlight – through small capsule collections – the best of what had already been produced by traditional businesses. This has resulted  in three trailblazing capsules, two of which designed in partnership by PG DENIM and companies the likes of M&J Group, Cadica and Greenwear. Several copies of these collections have been made to travel the world, and – after the official presentation in July – they will have a special corner, The Denim Window, in the Bluezone at Munich Fabric Start.

The “Circular Programme” and the five “Rs” of sustainability

Also the PG DENIM approach to accountability in production processes has been enhanced by implementing the “Circular Programme”. As part of our corporate vision, Italian-style production is combined with compliance with what have become known as “the five Rs”, that is to say key concepts underlying the design and manufacturing model: Reduce (everything you are not using), Repair (everything you can), Reuse (anything available to you), Recycle (all that is left), Respect (everything around you).

This is the philosophy underlying each individual process at PG DENIM, and leading to new specific programmes which have been its business focus over the past few months:

1) Reducing the environmental impact during the fabric dyeing phase in reaction and sulphurbased processes, where the use of chemicals has been reduced by 40%, water consumption by 50% and CO2 emissions by 60%, which has also resulted in better penetration and a better result in the crocking process. This has led to producing 10 new articles which will be launched on the market.

2) Recycling all waste from processing and after use, creating a range of garments where cotton is actually obtained from regenerating these two kinds of waste. In this regard, PG DENIM for now is the only company on the market able to process with a percentage of recycled product exceeding 60% of the total, whereas the average for this kind of manufacturing is generally about 35%.

As regards regular production, on the other hand, PG DENIM follows stringent international standards, including Dtox, Reach and Gots in all its processing phases, also using BCI cottons and the Organic Cotton Standard for raw materials. Last but not least, it was recently awarded the GRS (Global Recycled Standard) certification.

A revolutionary new system for yarn dyeing based on the proven Econtrol® dyeing system for fabrics will be introduced by A. Monforts Textilmaschinen GmbH & Co. KG at ITMA 2019 in Barcelona, Spain, from June 20-26.

This latest CYD denim processing technology integrates new functions and processes into the weaving preparatory processes – spinning, direct beaming, warping and assembly beaming, followed by sizing and dyeing – in order to increase quality, flexibility, economic viability and productivity.

“Denim finishing is a field in which Monforts has an undisputed lead and we have been working closely with our many partners in the key denim manufacturing countries of China, Bangladesh, India, Pakistan, Mexico and Brazil to develop new advanced solutions,” says Monforts Head of Denim Hans Gerhard Wroblowski. “The CYD system has been developed in response to a very strong market demand.”

Archroma has recently launched at the ITMA exhibition its new Diresul® Smartdenim Blue, a liquid sulfur blue dye designed to mimic indigo.

Diresul® Smartdenim Blue liquid was developed in compliance with “The Archroma Way: safe, efficient, enhanced, it’s our nature”. The approach finds its origin in Archroma’s deep belief that it is possible to make the textile industry sustainable, economically and ecologically.

The new product will be the core of Archroma's Indigo Reflection, a coloration system that behaves like indigo, with an even more sustainable and efficient application process compared to indigo.

Research and restoring of ancient tradition to shape a denim style which is always cutting-edge, focusing on a 100% Italian supply chain and on the outstanding quality of materials and processes.

“Ciao Milano”, the new edition of the Denim Première Vision show, for the first time in Milan (28-29 Maggio 2019), includes among its protagonist the project signed by Paolo Gnutti, aka PG DENIM. The company, under Gnutti’s creative guidance, has restyled its proposals, with two clear objectives in mind: on the one hand expanding its presence on the high-end denim market, focusing more and more on a bespoke approach and on product innovation, on the other side the ambitious goal of manufacturing one million metres of fabric in the year 2019.

This path of constant research is combined with a totally integrated and 100% Italian manufacturing structure, in order to give the market not just new products, but also new “tools”, says Paolo Gnutti, R&D Head at PG DENIM:
“We are targeting the market section where production always requires thinking out of the box, which feeds the imagination of those who are asked to transform it. Our approach is often made of provocations, suggestions, reflections, through continuous research which leads us to designing frequent and always innovative capsule collections”.

A creative input which almost always results from situations and pathways which bring back the creativity of
PG DENIM, to rediscover techniques and processes of the great Italian and international tailoring tradition.

Itema held the first Itema Denim Day on the 12th of April, a full day dedicated to deepen trends and challenges throughout the denim sector, with a focus on how to meet sustainable perspectives by presenting and introducing new business models and innovations. The event provided the unique opportunity to share ideas, experiences and best practices. This one-day event shed light on the most recent green innovations through a market and customer-oriented approach.

The whole supply chain was the centre of a lively debate which highlighted the connections between ethics and business, the most recent product and process innovations, key technologies, as well as a survey of the digitalisation in the value chain for the textile sector. The event also highlighted the most recent rapier, air-jet and projectile weaving innovations designed and developed by Itema for denim fabrics. The innovations presented, tailored and customized for denim production, attracted great interest from denim mills delegates attending the event, impressed by the considerable costs saving, user-friendliness and unparalleled innovative content of the Itema looms.

With portfolio expansion and future development of the industry in sight, the organisers of Texprocess India and Gartex India have entered into a strategic alliance to form a unified industry platform ‘Gartex Texprocess India’. The event will be part of Messe Frankfurt’s Texpertise Network leveraging on the group’s strong global network and expertise in the sector.
 
Leading in both apparel consumption and exports, India holds the second largest textile manufacturing capacity globally with the textile machinery sector witnessing a growth of 8-10 percent year on year. As the world's second largest exporter of textiles and clothing projected to reach USD 300 billion by 2024, Indian apparel manufacturers are moving towards increasing their manufacturing capacities and upgrading technology, giving rise to automation garmenting processes to enter the Indian market. Having made its debut in 2016, both Texprocess India and Gartex India received tremendous response from the industry with leading associations and companies in the garment and textile machinery sector coming forward to support the shows.
 
At the internationally renowned Texprocess, exhibitors from around the world converge to present the latest machines, plants, processes and services for the manufacture of garments and textile and flexible materials. While Texprocess India was launched as a pavilion to create an innovation platform for garment-manufacturing and textile processing at Techtextil India tradeshow in Mumbai, Gartex India exhibition was held annually in New Delhi and has grown wider in scope covering not just garment and textile manufacturing value chain but has also added segments like innerwear manufacturing zone, Laundry & Denim show along the way in addition to digital textile printing, embroidery and other existing verticals. With the merger of the two strong textile trade fair brands, the organisers, Messe Frankfurt Trade Fairs India Pvt Ltd and MEX Exhibitions, aspire to work in collaboration for India’s textile industry development, facilitating global sourcing and networking in the textile value chains.

After the second day of Denim by Premiere Vision, ECO - Collaboration between companies of the EUROPEAN DENIM VALUE CHAIN was celebrated. In order to celebrate this Premium-SUSTAINABLE DENIM FABRIC, Berto teamed up with:

• BLACKHORSE LANE, maker and seller of ready-to-wear selvedge & organic raw denim jeans in London, with a focus on sustainability, community and unmatched quality;
• EVEREST, Italian company which offers an innovative sustainable range of textile treatments for the fashion industry;
• MARCHI&FILDI, spinning group located in North-Italy focused on innovation and sustainability, producer of the ECOTEC® yarns, with huge reductions on environmental impact; up to 78% in water, 56% in CO2 emissions and energy consumption. The same technology is used to produce yarns for Berto.

These companies collaborated on this exclusive project where the yarn is made through ECOTEC® System by MARCHI&FILDI, the fabric is made by BERTO, the garments are designed and made by BLACKHORSE LANE and finally washed by EVEREST.

Chittagong - Der Erfolg der Textilindustrie in Bangladesch ist auch ein Erfolg für die Frauen des Landes. Der weltweit zweitgrößte Hersteller von Konfektionskleidung benötigt ständig neue Arbeitskräfte und findet sie vor allem in den vielen Frauen, die wirtschaftliche Sicherheit und Unabhängigkeit suchen.

Es kann gar nicht genug betont werden, wie sehr die Frauen in Bangladesch von diesen Jobs profitieren. 2.85 Mio Frauen haben in der Textilindustrie Beschäftigung gefunden. Die meisten von ihnen starten als junge Hilfskräfte ohne Ausbildung und bekommen hier die Gelegenheit, ein unabhängiges Leben zu führen und sich selbst und oft sogar auch ihre Familien zu ernähren.

Während Eltern früher vor allem darauf bedacht waren, Mädchen möglichst vorteilhaft und früh zu verheiraten, können die Töchter nun signifikant zum gemeinsamen Einkommen beitragen. Ihre soziale Rolle wird dadurch ganz neu definiert, sie selbst erhalten neue Lebensperspektiven, die über das Großziehen von Kindern hinausgehen. Und indem sie Fähigkeiten erwerben, können sie sich weiterentwickeln und dadurch in Position und Einkommen aufsteigen.

Heute beträgt er Einkommensunterschied zwischen männlichen und weiblichen Arbeitern in Bangladesch mit 3% deutlich weniger als in manchen westlichen Ländern. Und Frauen besetzen zusehends auch Führungspositionen.

Engagierte örtliche Unternehmen wie der Jeans Nischenhersteller Denim Expert Ltd. gehen bei Verantwortung für ihre Arbeiterinnen noch einen Schritt weiter: Geschäftsführer Mostafiz Uddin möchte Frauen ausdrücklich fördern.

Vor zwei Jahren ist Denim Expert Ltd. HERproject™  beigetreten und hat ausgewählte Mitarbeiterinnen ausbilden lassen, die als Coaches für die weibliche Belegschaft fungieren. Im ersten Schritt erhalten die Arbeiterinnen Informationen zu grundlegenden Gesundheitsthemen wie Hygiene und Krankheiten, Ernährung, Familienplanung und Kinderbetreuung. Weitere Schritte werden folgen.

Denim Expert Ltd. begrüßt ausdrücklich auch Minderheiten. Mostafiz Uddin hat kürzlich zwei Transgender-Frauen eingestellt - als erstes Unternehmen in Bangladesch. Transgender-Menschen werden im Land immer noch sehr stigmatisiert. Dadurch, dass sie nun eine Anstellung gefunden haben, können die beiden Frauen endlich ein sozial akzeptiertes Leben führen und ihren Kollegen und Familien beweisen, dass sie sich nicht von ihnen unterscheiden.

Bangladesch bietet auch andere vorbildliche Projekte: Besonders Frauen mit einem unterprivilegierten Hintergrund landen oft in unqualifizierten und schlecht bezahlten Tätigkeiten, obwohl sie vielleicht das Potenzial für den sozialen Aufstieg hätten. Sie bekommen einfach keine Chance, weil es ihnen an Bildung fehlt.

Um das zu ändern, hat die Asian University for Women (AUW) das Projekt PATHWAYS TO PROMISE gegründet, das gemeinsam mit engagierten Unternehmern unerkannte Talente unter den weiblichen Angestellten identifiziert und ihnen die Gelegenheit bietet, einen Universitätsabschluss zu machen. Die Frauen müssen eine Reihe von Tests bestehen. Falls sie die Prüfung schaffen, bezahlt ihnen der Arbeitgeber während der fünfjährigen Universitätsausbildung ihr Gehalt uneingeschränkt fort. Denim Expert Ltd. nimmt am PATHWAYS TO PROMISE-Programm teil, und Mostafiz Uddin ist stolz darauf, dass seine Mitarbeiterin Shapla Akter nun eine akademische Laufbahn anstrebt.

Bangladesch bietet seiner weiblichen (und natürlich auch männlichen) Bevölkerung zunehmend neue Chancen. Die wertvollste Ressource des Landes sind seine jungem ehrgeizigen Bewohner, die ihre persönlichen Ziele erreichen möchten und dabei zum Erfolg der ganzen Nation beitragen.

The 9th edition of Bangladesh Denim Expo has been successfully completed at International Convention City Bashundhara, Dhaka with the aim of highlighting the importance to develop business relationships for promoting best working practices. It showcased the strength and capacity in denim manufacturing of Bangladesh.

The theme of 2-days expo held on 7th & 8th November set ‘Simplicity’ to display latest trends of denim products to the global brands and retailers. Over 5540 visitors and buyers from 1018 companies&55countries from around the world joined the expo.

The theme of this edition ‘Simplicity’ is aimed at defining a much simpler, much easier definition to understand sustainability and ecology in denim. The Founder & CEO of Bangladesh Denim Expo said that “The underlying concept of the Bangladesh Denim Expo is to fulfill the need of the international denim community, offering the opportunity to make new contacts with potential buyers, discovering new products and to gain a comprehensive overview of the latest developments available from the Bangladesh Denim Industry”.

A total of 63 exhibitors from 12 countries with Bangladesh displayed their products in the 2-day show held on 7th and 8th November 2018. As Simplicity is the core of this edition of the expo and its series of seminars also let the visitors learn about the process of the Simplicity in denim manufacturing. A total of five seminars and two panel discussions were organized in the expo where international and national experts shared their opinions. The seminars highlighted the need for ‘Simplicity’ within the entire denim supply chain.

Trend Zone
A special event ‘Trend Zone’ area, the unique space dedicated to showcase the latest denim trends and innovative products, has been expanded in this edition where visitors have been able to gain insights on denim fabrics, styling and finishing available in Bangladesh, together with an offer of the most relevant denim publication.