From the Sector

IDEA, the North American nonwovens show, will take place in Miami from March 28th to 31st. Trützschler’s booth focuses on the needs of the American market. It's about local service, the efficient production of sustainable nonwovens and the digital support of production processes.

Tomorrow’s products are sustainable
In addition to the in-depth know-how, Trützschler Nonwovens has a broad portfolio of line concepts for the production of sustainable, biodegradable nonwovens. Cotton is an important raw material for American producers, which is why Trützschler is showing solutions for processing raw cotton, comber noils and blends of viscose and cotton. Another focus is on the Voith/Trützschler concepts for wet-laid, hydroentangled WLS and CP nonwovens. Nonwovens made from viscose fibers and NBSK pulp, the raw material for the paper industry, not only offer a good cost/performance ratio, but also a small CO2 footprint.

Digital solutions optimize the production floor
In order to ensure lasting quality, Trützschler Nonwovens presents a modular, digital work environment that systematizes, digitizes and simplifies typical work processes. With the help of Industry 4.0 technologies, line, process and quality data relevant to a production lot can be stored, aggregated, visualized and analyzed with regard to process improvements.

Trützschler USA
With its headquarters in Charlotte, North Carolina, and more than 100 employees, Trützschler USA is the first point of contact for all matters relating to American nonwovens producers. The company is able to equip and convert machines according to customer specifications (certified UL508A panel shop), carry out factory acceptance tests and a wide range of repairs in Charlotte.

For more than 70 years BRÜCKNER has been in the construction of drying and finishing lines for the textile and nonwovens industry. In the nonwovens sector, the company supplies worldwide thermofusion ovens, dryers, coating and heat-setting lines. On the IDEA 2022 trade fair in Miami, USA, BRÜCKNER presents together with its American representation FI-TECH new machine concepts and solutions for different applications in the mentioned fields.

The production of nonwovens always requires a bonding process after the nonwovens formation, where the loosely laid fibers are bonded to a resilient fiber composite. For this purpose, depending on the process, different ovens and dryers are used. BRÜCKNER supplies the necessary lines for all applications. The production program is completed by different impregnation and coating units as well as slitting and winding equipment. BRÜCKNER's customers produce geo nonwovens, filter media, hygiene and medical textiles or different fabrics for the automotive and transport industry

For the production of highloft nonwovens the double-belt thermofusion oven SUPRA-FLOW BX is used. This oven system operates according to the air-through principle and can be perfectly adapted to the product requirements in terms of flow speed, flow direction and temperature on a field-by-field basis.  
The SUPRA-FLOW BX can produce nonwovens up to a thickness of 280 mm and a basis weight of max. 8 kg/m². The available working widths vary between 2400 and 5200 mm at production speeds of up to 100 m/min.  
For geotextile projects, the POWER-FRAME stenter is usually used, which impresses with its uniformity in terms of temperature distribution as well as productivity. In addition, the fabric can be stretched in a targeted manner by transporting it in the stenter chain. This has a controlled influence on fabric width, fiber orientation and fabric shrinkage. Working widths of up to over 7 meters are not uncommon with geotextile finishing systems.

Global Fashion Summit, an international forum for sustainability in fashion, will convene core stakeholders across fashion, parallel industries, investment, policy and NGOs to forge alliances for a new era. The Summit is presented by Global Fashion Agenda, the non-profit organisation that fosters industry collaboration in fashion to drive impact, under the patronage of HRH The Crown Princess of Denmark. Global Fashion Summit: Copenhagen Edition 2022, will return in physical form on 7-8 June in the Royal Opera House, Copenhagen, Denmark.

Formerly known as Copenhagen Fashion Summit, the forum has been renamed to manifest the organisation’s global outlook and reach. Global Fashion Summit will build on the 13-year history of the renowned Copenhagen Fashion Summit by strengthening its representation and connections with diverse perspectives from across the world. Therefore, the Summit will be hosted in various key cities in the future, in addition to its flagship edition in Copenhagen.
 
Under the theme ‘Alliances for a New Era’, Global Fashion Summit: Copenhagen Edition 2022 will endeavour to form previously inconceivable alliances within the fashion industry and examine atypical cross-industry alliances, in a bid to accelerate the transition to a net positive reality.
 
The theme will underly all elements of the Summit. It will be represented on the Summit main stage during plenary sessions consisting of high-level keynote speeches and panels. These will bring together speakers that are often perceived as direct competitors to have transparent conversations about their mutual challenges and collaborate to discuss the actions needed to tackle the urgent issues. The programme will also include industries such as transportation, food and energy, to consider the challenges that are similarly experienced in other sectors and learn from successful solutions that are being demonstrated outside of fashion.
 
Going beyond the stage content, the Summit will apply the theme in practical terms by mobilising leaders to implement immediate actions through newly formed partnerships with solution providers and other industry players, setting long-term industry commitments, hosting leadership roundtables and creating binding industry agreements that will provoke progress based on its sustainability performance level.
The Innovation Forum will present a curated exhibition of sustainable solutions. Participating brands will be able to connect with exhibitors covering the entire value chain – from innovative materials to on-demand manufacturing. The forum’s Matchmaking service will offer small and large fashion businesses the opportunity to advance their sustainability journey by being matched directly with relevant solution providers.
There will be an in-depth assessment of the impact that the Summit and its resulting alliances have on the industry. This will be published in the aftermath of the event, examining the concrete outcomes from the Summit and providing a baseline for future forums.

Statement

On the occasion of the EU-Africa Business Summit, EURATEX is re-iterating the ambition of the European textile industry to grow its role on global markets, including the African continent.

The textile ecosystem is considered the 2^nd most globalised sector of the European economy ; it is built on globalised supply chains and fierce competition with China, US, Bangladesh, Turkey and many others. Imports are now peaking at €115 billion (ca. 60% garments and 40% textiles), with a dramatic increase of imported medical textiles (face masks) in 2020. Every year, 22 billion pieces of textile and garment products are brought into the EU Single market.

Europe’s answer to this competitive pressure must be to invest even more on quality and innovative products, made in a sustainable manner. As emerging markets evolve, the appetite for better quality, comfort and design will grow. The ability and willingness to purchase technical textiles, which offer solutions to durability and improved performance, will increase. That is where Europe can be successful. To illustrate: the EU’s exports to China have increased by 33% in 2021 (first 11 months).

In its vision paper on the future of European textiles and apparel, EURATEX has confirmed its ambition to increase the global market share of the European textile industry. Strengthening relations with nearby Turkey and North African countries is important in this regard, offering opportunities for nearshoring. The African continent at large offers trade and investment opportunities, provided the business climate is stable and transparent.

Relations with the UK and Switzerland need to be optimised; especially Brexit has caused serious damage to bilateral trade flows (-33% export to the UK during Jan-Nov 2021). The Mercosur FTA offers interesting opportunities for the European textile industry; it should be ratified as soon as possible. We need to work with the US on mutual recognition of standards and setting global environmental and social rules. We call upon India to make an honest proposal for the upcoming free trade negotiations, which will ensure full and fair access to the Indian market.

European textile and apparel companies (mostly SMEs) need to be accompanied to exploit these market opportunities. At the same time, they need to be protected from unfair competition, e.g. products who do not comply with stringent EU standards and procedures. This requires more effective market surveillance.

Bemberg™ is back at Première Vision to celebrate its 90th anniversary through its latest collections, premium partnerships with contemporary brands such as ECOALF and a brand new visual identity. The industry-leading textile fair will represent another pivotal occasion for Bemberg™ to showcase its latest claim “Crafted Elegance”, which perfectly embodies its values of preciousness, quality and refined aesthetic blended with innovation and responsible values.

Born in 2009, both the name and concept of ECOALF came after the birth of Javier Goyenche’s - founder and president - two sons: Alfredo and Alvaro. He wanted to create a truly sustainable fashion brand and believed the most sustainable action to take was to stop using natural resources in a careless way to ensure them to the next generation. Since then, Ecoalf’s mission has been to make a new generation of recycled products with the same quality and design as the best non-recycled.

Based on this design idea, the Mery dress and Patrica pants are part of Ecoalf’s FW21 collection and both made with 100% Bemberg ™ Cupro by Asahi Kasei.

The Parisian exhibition completes the company’s celebrative two-chapter journey. The first half was presented during Pitti Uomo, where Bemberg™ showed archival suits crafted by the historic Sartoria Litrico and lined in Cupro. Behind them stood the new visual image of Bemberg™, focused on exceptional beauty, one-of-a-kind uniqueness and joyful comfort.

Hypetex®, a leader in colouring carbon fibre materials, is delighted to announce that its Hypetex® Kromaskin™ field hockey stick for adidas has been selected as a finalist for the 2022 JEC Innovation Awards.

Hypetex® was commissioned by adidas to develop a market leading hockey stick differentiated from existing equipment not just by its unique pigmented carbon fibre finish, but also by its game changing hitting power and consistency. The patented range of Kromaskin™ sticks, created with support from project partners Textreme® and Marque Makers, was found to outperform competitors in a benchmark study against eight other premium hockey sticks carried out by Loughborough’s Sports Technology Institute (STI).

Hypetex® lead the design, engineering, materials, and production process development for the adidas field hockey stick project. By incorporating the stick’s finish colour within the outermost carbon fibre layer, the stick mould could be adjusted outwards, placing the highly structural spread tow materials right at the outer extremities of the mould cavity, increasing mechanical performance and maximising the structural benefits of the composite materials used.

Whilst the Kromaskin™ surface provides a stunning depth of colour with minimal finishing required after demoulding, the Hypetex® technology, including an epoxy based expanding microsphere system used in the core, delivers significant performance gains on the hockey pitch. In tests at the STI, adidas Kromaskin™ sticks had up to 16% higher coefficient of restitution (COR), meaning they will return more energy and the ball will travel faster. In addition, through the production led design and materials used, the variation in COR was 70% less than the other sticks on test, a significant reduction in the production inconsistencies common with the manufacturing of performance sporting goods.

The Lenzing Group will present the Young Scientist Award for outstanding research in the field of fibers and textiles for the first time in 2022. The Dornbirn Global Fiber Congress (GFC Dornbirn) is an ideal platform for the recently launched research competition. Bachelor’s and master’s degree students will have the opportunity to submit their scientific work in the categories of fashion and the circular economy, textile recycling and the innovative use of biobased fibers to a jury of well-known industry experts.

The jury consists of Karla Magruder (Founder of Acceleration Circularity), Friedericke von Wedel-Parlow (Beneficial Design Institute Berlin) and Dieter Eichinger (Head of Standardization and Innovation, Secretary-General of BISFA). The winning project will receive a prize of EUR 5,000. The aim is to promote the students’ work and create a platform for networking with the textile and fiber industry.

The Austrian Fibers Institute is the organizer of the 61st Dornbirn Global Fiber Congress on a not-for-profit basis. The event, due to take place from September 14 to 16, 2022, will offer an ideal setting for the presentation of the Young Scientist Award prize.

You can read more about the Young Scientist Award and the submission in the attached document.

After the C.L.A.S.S. recent evolution of its communication tools, they are really pleased to introduce Circular Systems as new C.L.A.S.S. Material Hub partner.

Circular Systems is a California based materials science company, focused on creating a net positive impact on environment, society and economy through innovation. Its circular plus regenerative technologies provide systemic solutions for transforming waste into valuable fibre, yarns, and fabrics for the fashion industry.

Textile waste and agriculture residues are a huge problem, often burned, left to rot in the fields, or sent to landfills creating massive amounts of CO2. Circular Systems is looking at these waste streams as valuable resources, turning problem into a solution by converting them into high value materials for the fashion industry. The “Lightest Touch™“ philosophy, defines their mission to retain maximum amount of embedded energy in waste inputs while creating the “highest-value outputs” with the lowest impacts. Integration of these technologies into global supply chains is key without compromising quality, thus extending the life cycle of these materials.

Circular Systems has three waste-to-fibre platforms that offer an efficient management of textile and agricultural waste:

• The Agraloop™ refines natural fibers derived from agricultural crops into textile-grade fiber called Agraloop™ BioFibre™.  A NEW Natural Fiber mindfully sourced for circularity. With our specialized processing technique, cellulose fiber from stems and leaves are purified into soft fiber bundles ready to spin into yarns. The Agraloop™ processes leftovers from various food and medicine crops including, oilseed hemp/flax, CBD hemp, banana, and pineapple.
• Texloop™ Recycling produces high-quality GRS (Global Recycled Standard) certified recycled cotton fibre called RCOT™. Texloop™ preserves fiber quality for the next generation of recycled materials and blends with GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standard) certified organic cotton and Canopy approved man-made cellulosics to create near virgin quality yarns for knitting and weaving.
• Orbital™ hybrid yarns create high-quality materials with high-performance, using organic and recycled fiber inputs. Orbital's patent-pending technology produces inherent wicking and fast dry performance materials, even with 50%-70% natural fiber composition, eliminating the need for chemical finishes to create high-performance fabrics.

All Circular Systems yarns are GRS, OCS and/or GOTS certified and are in the process of developing  their own Crop Residue Standard with Textile Exchange that would relate to the Agraloop™ platform technology.

The current energy crisis is impacting on the competitiveness of the European textile and clothing industry. Because there are limited alternatives to the use of gas in different parts of the production process, production costs increase sharply. EURATEX asks the European Commission and Member States to urgently support the industry to avoid company closures. At the same time, we need a long term vision to move towards climate neutrality, while keeping the T&C industry internationally competitive.

EURATEX presented ten key requirements to Kadri Simson, European Commissioner for Energy, to develop such a vision:

1. The apparel and textile industry needs a safe supply with sufficient green energy (electricity and gas) at internationally competitive prices.
2. The transformation of industry requires access to very significant amounts of renewable energy at competitive costs. Additional investments in infrastructure will also be needed to guarantee access to new renewable energy supplies.
3. Until a global (or at least G 20 level) carbon price or other means for a global level playing field in climate protection are implemented, competitive prices for green energy must be granted at European or national levels (e.g. CCfDs, reduction on levies, targeted subsidies).
4. As the European textile and clothing sector faces global competition mainly form countries/regions with less stringent climate ambitions, it is of utmost importance that the European textile and clothing companies are prevented form direct and indirect carbon leakage.
5. EU-policy should support solutions, e.g. through targeted subsidies (for hydrogen, energy grids, R&D, technology roadmap studies etc.).
6. A dedicated approach for SMEs might be appropriate as SMEs do not have the skills/know-how to further improve their energy efficiency and/or becoming carbon neutral.
7. CAPEX and OPEX support will be necessary for breakthrough technologies, like hydrogen.
8. The Fit-for-55-Package must support the European Textile and Clothing industry in decarbonization and carbon neutrality. The EU must therefore advocate a global level playing field more than before. The primary goal must be to establish an internationally uniform, binding CO2 pricing, preferably in the form of a standard at G-7 / G-20 level.
9. EU-policy must not hinder solutions, e.g. we need reasonable state aid rules (compensating the gap between national energy or climate levies and a globally competitive energy price should not be seen as a subsidy).
10. The European Textile and Clothing industry has made use of economically viable potentials to continuously improve energy efficiency over many years and decades. The obligation to implement further measures must be taken considering investment cycles that are in line with practice. Attention must be paid to the proportionality of costs without weakening the competitive position in the EU internal market or with competitors outside the EU.

Please see the attached position paper for more information.

Archroma announced the launch of EARTH SOFT, a new softening system for textile and fashion applications, based on Archroma's latest innovation, a vegan silicone softener, Siligen® EH1, with 35% plant-based active content.

Siligen® EH1 is the latest addition in the plant-based innovations developed by Archroma in recent years, such as EarthColors® dyes and Appretan® NTR binders, as alternatives offered to manufacturers and brands looking to reduce the use of fossil fuel based ingredients without compromising performance.

The range has been developed in line with the principles of “The Archroma Way to a sustainable world: safe, efficient, enhanced, it’s our nature”. More than 35% of the Siligen® EH1 softener's active content is based on plant-based, renewable raw materials. In addition, the product features ultralow cyclic siloxanes (D4, D5, D6) which are classified by the European Chemicals Agency as “Substances of Very High Concern” due to their very persistent and bioaccumulative properties.

Siligen® EH1 is ideally suited for shirts, underwear, sportswear, towels, bed sheets, etc. as it provides an excellent wearing comfort by supporting a good moisture transportation and delivering a smooth and soft touch.

The new softener, and the EARTH SOFT system which also includes a Hydroperm® wicking agent to boost hydrophilic properties on synthetic and blended fibers, can be applied on all natural and synthetic textile fibers.

Siligen® EH1 is suitable for both woven and knitted articles. It can be applied by padding process, as well as by exhaust process as it shows a very good shear stability and a low foaming profile. It can be used on white articles and those treated with optical brighteners, as it doesn’t cause thermomigration nor phenolic yellowing.

Paul Cowell, Head of Competence Centers for Brand & Performance Textile Specialties at Archroma, comments: “The new EARTH SOFT system based on Siligen® EH1 softener adds to our growing portfolio of innovations based on natural and renewable plant-based resources. This new breakthrough innovation by Archroma helps us and our partners in the textile and fashion industry to minimize our dependence on petroleum fossil fuel products.”