From the Sector

Polartec, a Milliken & Company brand and the premium creator of innovative and more sustainable textile solutions, unveils the first of three short films which comprise the company’s multifaceted Beyond Begins Today campaign. Featuring Eva Karlsson (CEO, Houdini), Chris Parkes (Natural World Photographer), and Karen Beattie (Director of Product Management, Polartec), the first chapter explores our Planet and the intrinsic value of our natural world.

As a global initiative through which Polartec aims to raise awareness and unity around important universal themes including sustainability, diversity and positive change, Beyond Begins Today leverages static and multimedia content published on multiple touchpoints and channels throughout the year. Chapter 1: the Planet, is the first of three chapters with the second and third chapters dedicated to Product and People respectively.

Fashion for Good launches the Sorting for Circularity USA report unveiling significant findings from the project. A first of its kind in the US, the report delves into consumer disposal behaviour, textile waste composition, and the potential for fibre-to-fibre recycling within the country. It provides insights for making informed decisions for further investments, infrastructure development and the next steps towards circularity.

The U.S. Textile Waste Landscape
The United States is a global leader in textile consumption and waste generation, positioning itself as one of the largest sources of secondary raw materials for post-consumer textile feedstock. Despite this, only 15% of the textile waste generated in the US is currently recovered, with 85% ending up in landfills or incinerators.

With the impending policies in the European Union and certain American states, alongside commitments from both public and private sectors to promote fibre-to-fibre recycling, there is a growing demand for infrastructure related to post-consumer textile collection, sorting, and recycling.

Addressing Data GPS
In the pursuit of establishing a functional reverse supply chain and the necessary infrastructure, two critical areas lack data  – consumer disposal behaviour, and material characteristics of post-consumer textiles. The Sorting for Circularity USA project addressed these gaps through a comprehensive national consumer survey and waste composition analysis.

The survey revealed that 60% of respondents divert textiles, while 4% discard them, driven primarily by factors such as condition and fit. On the other hand, the waste composition analysis unveiled that over 56% of post-consumer textiles are suitable for fibre-to-fibre recycling, with cotton and polyester being the most prevalent fibre types, indicating a substantial potential for these textiles to be used as feedstock for mechanical and chemical recycling processes.

The project revealed a $1.5 billion opportunity for fibre-to-fibre recycling by redirecting non-rewearable textiles from landfills and incinerators to recycling streams. The report outlines growth strategies for the US textile recycling industry, emphasising enhanced financial value through efficiency improvements, increased commodity valuation, and policy mechanisms like extended producer responsibility schemes. Collaboration among stakeholders is crucial, including brands, government, retailers, consumers, collectors, sorters, recyclers, and financial institutions, to promote circularity, invest in research and development, and advocate for supportive policies and incentives to drive technological innovation. This redirection of textiles towards recycling underscores the substantial economic potential of embracing circularity in the textile industry.
 
There is an opportunity to build on these insights and assess the feasibility of different sorting business models and (semi) automated sorting technologies to create a demo facility suitable for closed-loop textile recycling. Ultimately, evaluating the commercial and technical feasibility of a semi-automated sorting process and identifying investment opportunities to scale solutions nationwide.

The Dibella sales team continues to grow. Since the first of May, Thomas Kmoch has been supporting customers from South Tyrol, Austria and Switzerland.

Dibella welcomes Thomas Kmoch, an experienced member of staff, to the team. Due to his previous twenty years as an authorised signatory and sales director at Damino GmbH, the sales specialist brings with him in-depth knowldge of flat linen for contract business and comprehensive industry expertise.

At Dibella, Thomas Kmoch is primarily responsible for supporting existing customers and building new customer relationships in South Tyrol, Austria and Switzerland. The company is thus further strengthening ist focus on these three regions.

By establishing touchpoint textile, drupa has created a special forum to showcase pioneering applications in digital textile printing. The highlight will be the Digital Textile Micro Factory – a fully connected, integrated process chain starting with the customer enquiry and design through to large-format digital textile printing.

touchpoint textile represents drupa’s growing expansion into new markets comprising such segments as packaging production, large-format or industrial and functional printing next to packaging production. All of these segments are undergoing the same transformation processes and offer enormous growth potential. The special forum revolves around the opportunities and challenges of digital textile printing, brings together renowned exhibitors, industry partners and brand owners and provides scope for cross-industry cooperation, new projects as well as product and manufacturing ideas. The operational content partners of touchpoint textile include the German Institutes for Textile and Fibre Research Denkendorf (DITF), as Europe’s largest textile research centre, as well as ESMA, the European Specialist Printing Manufacturers Association.

Digital Textile Micro Factory: on-demand and virtual products – on the path towards sustainable production
In cooperation with 12 partners from industry and research the DITF will demonstrate a Digital Textile Micro Factory live at drupa and, hence, a fully connected, integrated process chain from design to finished product. This will present new possibilities for digitalisation and direct customer involvement, for instance in the form of 3D apparel simulations complete with links to design networks for creative input. Digital workflows and virtual products are integrated directly in the manufacturing process. As a special highlight for all trade visitors the technology partners of this Micro Factory will demonstrate an automated on-demand production, textile printing, cutting and sorting – without any manual interaction. Such decentralised and digitally connected design and production chains will enable the textile industry to respond to customers’ requests and trends in a more targeted manner in future. This means, touchpoint textile 2024 technologically points the way to a future without shelf-warmers. In addition, the carbon footprint for the complete process from virtual development to finished product will be modelled and presented at the trade fair.  

2024 will see the design competition “drupa – textile design talents” being held for the first time. This was conceived of by the DITF and will be implemented by the partner Mitwill. This provides up-coming textile designers and newcomers with a unique opportunity to introduce their ideas and visions to a professional audience.

Broad industry support
A project as comprehensive as the Micro Factory requires many strong partners. The companies “on board” here include: Assyst/Germany (3D simulation for digital apparel twins), Mitwill Textiles Europe/France (creative design network), D.G.I. Digital Graphics Incorporation/South Korea, Multi-Plot Europe/Germany (large-format textile printing), LEONHARD KURZ Stiftung/Germany, Zünd/Switzerland (digital cutting), robotfactory/Denmark, Asco/The Netherlands (presenting an innovative buffer solution between digital printing and cutting, automated sorting of cut parts from the cutter by robotfactory) as well as Brother/Japan (for small-format textile printing and bonding technology). Vaude and berger textiles will be sponsoring the touchpoint. Another key partner is the Albstadt-Sigmaringen University that is supporting the project as a conceptual sponsor and which has set itself the clear mission to incorporate these new topics into its curriculum. This means the staff of the future will be geared up to the new challenges ahead.

Another partner of touchpoint textile is the European Specialist Printing Manufacturers Association (ESMA), which is responsible for the lecture programme. ESMA represents industrial, functional and specialist printing and acts as an organiser of educational events in the field of textile printing. At drupa speakers from research, development, and industry will address issues related to printing and finishing techniques, workflows, market developments and sustainability, to name but a few. The focus will also be on trends and applications that unlock ever new potential through the interplay of digital printing and textile printing substrates. The lectures are divided into the categories Research, Finishing, Print Systems & Hardware, Substrates, Inks & Chemistry and Software & Electronics. Assyst, for example, will deliver talks on the virtual development of apparel as well as the research project ECOShoring, which is funded by the “Deutsche Bundesstiftung Umwelt” – DBU (German Federal Environmental Foundation) and focuses on personalised and on-demand sustainable manufacturing. Other speakers represent Adobe, Balta Group, Barbieri Electronic, Brother, Centexbel, CST, DITF, Fujifilm Speciality Ink Systems, HS Albsig, Kornit Digital, Meteor Inkjet, Mimaki, Mitwill, Multiplot, Print-Rite, RWTH Aachen, Seiko Instruments, Tiger Coatings, Xaar, Zünd and the list is updated on regular basis.

drupa will be held at the Düsseldorf Exhibition Centre from 28 May to 7 June 2024.

• GOTS Version 7.0 released
• GOTS certified entities grow by 8% and expand to 89 countries
• GOTS releases Due Diligence Handbook for certified entities
• Farm-Gin Registry implemented in India, creating a direct link and better evaluation of incoming data
• GOTS collaborates with European Space Agency and Marple for AI organic cotton project
• #Behindtheseams campaign reaches 21 million+ unique individuals

The Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS), managed by non-profit Global Standard, recognises 2023 as a year of significant milestones. From expansion of GOTS-certified facilities to the release of a new standard version, GOTS remained a beacon for businesses navigating changing legislation, social and environmental demands.

Coming out of one of the strongest years for GOTS, 2023 culminated with 25 GOTS-approved certification bodies reporting a noteworthy 14,676 certified facilities (an 8% growth from 2022) in 89 countries.

Ushering in GOTS Version 7.0
As of 1 March, facilities that become GOTS-certified will operate under the new GOTS Version 7.0, released in March 2023 with a one-year transition period. GOTS Version 7.0 and its accompanying Implementation Manual provides a comprehensive solution for companies who want to produce organic textiles and be supported to ensure compliance with environmental and human rights due diligence along the entire value chain, from field to finished product.

GOTS Version 7.0 also introduced a six-step due diligence process and handbook that equips GOTS-certified operations to proactively identify, assess and mitigate adverse impacts throughout their value chains.

Looking to the future
GOTS initiated in 2023 two major projects in India, the globe’s largest producer of organic cotton. The Farm-Gin Registry was introduced for the 2022-2023 harvest season, which acts as a link between farm and gin and is a tool to strengthen integrity by collecting organic raw seed cotton data producing farm or farm group.

GOTS, the European Space Agency (ESA) and software company Marple launched a new project that aims to show the potential for remote satellite monitoring of organic cotton cultivation systems. The project trained artificial intelligence (AI) to use ESA satellite data to detect cotton fields across India and automatically classify them according to their cultivation standard. By integrating standardised yield metrics, this innovative approach will enable GOTS to generate realistic estimates of organic cotton yields in specific areas. In addition, the project is expected to empower GOTS to recognise cotton fields that have not yet obtained organic certification but possess the potential for a transition to organic cultivation. The first results of the project will be announced in June.

Educating the consumer
GOTS, in its ongoing commitment to stakeholder education, orchestrated in November an immersive 360-degree awareness and educational campaign. Successfully engaging both consumers and industry professionals, the initiative shined a spotlight on GOTS-certified companies and their products, which empowered consumers to make more conscientious choices while shopping. With an impressive turnout of over 250 certified entities, the campaign made a significant global impact, reaching more than 21 million unique individuals worldwide.

Cascale, a non-profit alliance for driving impact in consumer goods (formerly the Sustainable Apparel Coalition), announces Colin Browne as its new Chief Executive Officer, effective May 1, 2024.

Browne previously served as Interim CEO and Chief Operating Officer of Under Armour, a Cascale member. During his tenure at Under Armour, Browne oversaw sustainability efforts and, in addition, led significant transformations across supply chain, go-to-market and technology. In 2023, the company shared achievements related to its environmental footprint, product circularity, and renewable energy goals – some accomplished with Cascale’s Higg Index suite of tools.

Prior to joining Under Armour, Browne was managing director of Asia Sourcing for VF Corporation, a Cascale member that includes The North Face, Timberland, Vans, and Smartwool brands. In addition to his experience leading brands, Browne also spent four years running manufacturing plants in Thailand and began his career at Bally Shoe factories in the UK. He has lived and worked in the UK, South Korea, mainland China, the Philippines, Thailand, Hong Kong SAR, and the USA; his international experience and localized approach underscore his commitment to Diversity, Equity, and Inclusion (DEI) both in and outside of the workplace. Browne also served as the Chairman of the American Apparel and Footwear Association and was on the board of the World Federation of Sporting Goods Industries. As a member of the Worldly Board, the leader in environmental and social impact data for the apparel and footwear industry and the exclusive platform for Cascale’s Higg Index tools, Browne will ensure a unified approach to advancing sustainability initiatives across both organizations.

During his first 100 days with Cascale, Browne will connect with the organization’s 300+ members across the value chain, emphasizing manufacturer engagement and relationship building. He will also engage Cascale’s broader ecosystem of stakeholders including NGOs, governments, and academia. Browne is personally committed to Cascale’s vision to lead the consumer goods industry to combat climate change, foster decent work for all, and build a nature-positive future.

The National Council of Textile Organizations (NCTO), representing the full spectrum of U.S. textiles from fiber through finished sewn products, held its officer elections for fiscal year 2024 at its annual meeting April 9-11.
NCTO has elected Charles Heilig, President of Parkdale Mills, as Chairman; and Chuck Hall, President and CEO of Barnet, as Vice Chairman.

In addition to the appointment of a new chairman and vice chairman, NCTO elected chairs for each of its five councils. NCTO is comprised of five councils to ensure a broad representation of the industry supply chain. Each council has an allotted number of members who are elected to the association’s Board of Directors, in addition to the Executive Committee.

Elected as NCTO Chairman and Vice Chairman for 2024:

• Chairman – Charles Heilig, President of Parkdale Mills based in Gastonia, North Carolina, a leading American manufacturer of yarn and cotton consumer products.
• Vice Chairman – Chuck Hall, President and CEO of Barnet based in Spartanburg, South Carolina, a 125-year-old manufacturer of technical textiles.

Elected to the NCTO Board of Directors:

• Fiber Council – David Adkins of Lenzing; John Freeman of Nan Ya Plastics; and Melissa Stewart of The LYCRA Company
• Yarn Council – Justin Ferdinand of Kentwool; Peter Iliopoulos of Gildan; Eddie Ingle of Unifi; Eric Noe of Buhler Quality Yarns; Marvin Smith of Shuford Yarns; and Jay Todd of Service Thread
• Fabric and Home Products Council – David Smith of Milliken & Company; James McKinnon of Cotswold Industries; Blake Millinor of Valdese Weavers; Leib Oehmig of Glen Raven; Dan Russian of Sage Automotive Interiors; and Walter Spiegel of Standard Textile
• Finished Textiles and Apparel Products Council – Marisa Fumei-South of Two-One-Two New York (Alternate: Gabrielle Ferrara of Ferrara Manufacturing)
• Industry Support Council – Todd Bassett of Fi-Tech; Greg Duncan of American Truetzschler; and Jim Reed of YKK Corp.

Elected by their respective Councils to serve on the Executive Committee:
David Adkins, Lenzing; Eddie Ingle, Unifi; Marvin Smith, Shuford Yarns; David Smith, Milliken & Company; James McKinnon, Cotswold Industries; Marisa Fumei-South, Two-One-Two New York; Gabrielle Ferrara, Ferrara Manufacturing; and Todd Bassett, Fi-Tech.

NCTO Chairman Charles Heilig has elected additional executives to serve on the Executive Committee: Anderson Warlick of Parkdale Mills; Norman Chapman of Inman Mills; John Maness of Gildan; Amy Bircher Bruyn of MMI Textiles; and Jackie Ferrari of American Fashion Network.

Elected to chair the Councils:

• Fiber Council: David Adkins of Lenzing
• Yarn Council: Justin Ferdinand of Kentwool
• Fabric and Home Products Council: David Smith of Milliken & Company
• Finished Textiles and Apparel Products Council: Marisa Fumei-South of Two-One-Two New York.
• Industry Support Council: Todd Bassett of Fi-Tech

Vandewiele Sweden is spearheading a transformation in B2B operations for the industry, with a new e-commerce platform developed in Sweden. The company, a member of TMAS, the Swedish Textile Machinery Association, has taken on the task of developing the digital solution that will meet the future demands for Vandewiele Group customers worldwide.

The Vandewiele Sweden team has developed a user-friendly interface that exploits the latest "exploding view" diagrams to ensure customers can easily identify and order the components they need, all within a 1:1 digital representation. The next stage in 3D technology is set up and ready, although it awaits implementation and market readiness to fully integrate and utilize its features.

Adopting a phased approach, the company is initially introducing its IRO-branded accessories, spare parts and gauge parts, targeting textile mills, weavers and distributors. The platform has been carefully crafted to cater to the varying needs of its diverse clientele, offering streamlined direct sales and a transparent commission structure for agents and distributors.

With an ambitious logistics promise of 48-hour dispatch and leveraging third-party payment service providers like Nets, the company assures speed and reliability in every transaction.

Scheduled for launch in April, Vandewiele stands ready to introduce its new e-commerce solution to key markets, including Scandinavia, the Baltics, parts of Europe, Turkey, and India.

Stratasys Ltd. announced the launch of its Direct-to-Garment (D2G) solution for the J850 TechStyle™ printer, the newest offering in the Stratasys 3DFashion™ direct-to-textile printing technology. The first example of its application is an Urban Tattoo denim collection which will be revealed at the Texprocess exhibition in Frankfurt, Germany on April 23.

The D2G solution is ideal for customization and personalization by enabling the application of full color multi-material 3D print directly on fully assembled garments of various fabric types including denim, cotton, polyester, and linen. It allows fashion brands to facilitate personalized and bespoke designs for customers, including the ability to tailor 3D prints according to individual preferences, sizes, and styles.  

Available in two sizes, the D2G tray kits facilitate the personalization of garments ranging from jeans to jackets, enabling designers and manufacturers to adopt more sustainable practices by reducing material waste. The seamless workflow delivers ease of calibration and compatibility with various garment sizes, streamlining the production process and fostering the creation of unique, personalized apparel.

Demonstrating this innovation, the Urban Tattoo collection showcases the potential and the ease of direct-to-garment 3D printing. Working with noted designers Karim Rashid, Travis Fitch, Zlatko Yanakiev at Meshroom along with Foraeva Studio, this collection shows the transformation of ordinary garments into pieces of wearable art, imbuing them with personal identity and meaning.

Like body tattoos, Urban Tattoos promote a deeper emotional connection, encouraging the upcycling of existing garments and contributing to a more sustainable fashion ecosystem. This aligns with Stratasys’ strategy for Mindful Manufacturing™. Stratasys has been able to create a new collection that will appeal to multiple brands that reach across diverse socio-economic backgrounds.

Archroma and ColorDigital GmbH, a company in textile supply chain digitalization, are joining forces to bring the library of engineered color standards to the DMIx ecosystem of fashion brands and suppliers.

All 5,760 color references in the Color Atlas by Archroma® will be integrated into ColorDigital’s DMIx interactive collaboration platform, enabling brands to embrace almost unlimited color creativity with an assurance of color precision. Based on digital twin technology, the DMIx solution ensures that color choices are aligned across design, sourcing and production, reducing sampling costs and collection development time as well as improving color accuracy and end-product quality. DMIx marks a significant step forward in enhancing color management processes for both digital product creation (DPC) and physical production.

Sustainability is an essential factor for both Archroma and DMIx. Colors in the Archroma Color Atlas are formulated to comply with leading eco-standards while also delivering consistent and accurate color reproduction. This complements the DMIx ImpAct approach, which provides data on the environmental impact of raw materials to enable brands to select inputs that meet their sustainability targets.

A new feature on the DMIx platform is DMIx eXcite, an inspirational material and color-trend hub that uses interactive moodboards to share new color and material scenarios ahead of each season. Designers and colorists will be able to directly use colors presented in the eXcite trend reports, including colors from the Color Atlas by Archroma®, across the DMIx color and 3D technology tools.