From the Sector

CARBIOS, a pioneer in the development and industrialization of biological technologies to reinvent the life cycle of plastic and textiles, announces its membership to Paris Good Fashion, the association that unites over 100 French players in the sector - brands, designers and experts - around their commitment to sustainable fashion. CARBIOS is the first recycling technology supplier to join, demonstrating the importance given to recycling to achieve textile circularity. By contributing its solution for the biorecycling of polyester, the world's most widely used and fastest-growing textile fiber, CARBIOS aims to contribute Paris Good Fashion’s mission, which focuses on concrete actions, best practice sharing and collective intelligence to accelerate change in the fashion industry.

CARBIOS will be particularly involved in the association's project to set up a working group dedicated to the development of a "fiber-to-fiber" industry, one of Paris Good Fashion's top priorities over the next five years. While only 1% of textiles are currently recycled fiber-to-fiber (circular), this working group will identify levers for significantly increasing the share of recycled fibers in the industry.  Polyester currently follows a linear model from which we need to break out: virgin polyester is made from petroleum, and recycled polyester from PET bottles. After use, most of these products end their lives in landfill or incineration. A circular, "fiber-to-fiber" industry will give new life to textiles and reduce the environmental impact associated to their end-of-life management.

The CEO of SGL Carbon SE, Dr. Torsten Derr, informed the Chairman of the Supervisory Board today that he will not extend his contract, which expires on May 31, 2025. Dr. Derr will continue his duties until the new CEO is appointed, at the latest until May 31, 2025.

“SGL Carbon is once again a strong and stable company whose profitable development I will continue to work on with all my strength until the last day. But even without me, my colleague on the Board of Management, Thomas Dippold, and the team will continue to develop the company successfully. The last almost four years have always been the achievement of the entire SGL team. SGL Carbon is now sailing in stable waters and my transformation work will therefore be completed shortly,” explains Dr. Torsten Derr.

“We are grateful to Dr. Derr for talking to us early on and in a spirit of trust. This will allow us to take our time in arranging his succession. SGL Carbon can look back on three successful financial years, is financially strong and relies on a broad-based management team that continues to drive forward the expansion of the business in strong growth markets. In our appreciative discussions, Dr. Derr has promised to complete all important projects with his usual commitment until the handover of the CEO position,” says Prof. Dr. Frank Richter.

The Supervisory Board will immediately begin the search for a successor to Dr. Torsten Derr.

The fifth edition of the Texhibition Istanbul Fabric and Textile Accessories Fair from 6 to 8 March 2024, organised by İTKİB Fuarcılık A.Ş. in cooperation with the Istanbul Textile Exporters Association (İTHİB), presented 557 exhibitors showcasing the entire range of the textile supplying section: from woven and knitted fabrics to accessories and artificial leather. A new addition was a separate hall for yarns and denim, the BlueBlackDenim hall. With this trade fair, Texhibition has more than doubled its floor space compared to the last event to 35,000 square metres.

Exhibitors
Texhibition Istanbul acts as a central point of contact for the entire international industry, with a clear focus on quality, innovation and the latest trends like the denim companies Bossa, Çalık, İsko, İskur and Kipaş at the BlueBlackDenim Hall.

Yarn companies such as Aksa, Diktaş, Ensar, Karafiber, Kaplanlar, Korteks, Migiteks, Sasa, Tepar showed the production power of the yarn sector, where the product quality, design and workmanship came together.

In addition to well-known companies such as Almodo, Bahariye, BTD, Can Textile, Iskur, Kipaş, Menderes, Söktaş, Yünsa, Zorlu, İpeker a large number of other export-oriented companies from the segments of textiles (woven fabrics, knitting) presented their latest designs and products.

Visitors
25,752 visitors came from over 112 countries, 41.8% from the European Union (including Germany, Italy, the Netherlands, Spain, Romania etc.) and Great Britain, Ukraine,26.5% from Asia (including Russia etc.), 14.8% from the Middle East (including Jordan, United Arab Emirates, Saudi Arabia) 10.7% from North Africa (including Algeria, Tunisia etc.), 3.1% from North America (United States, Canada), 3.1% from South America and other countries.

American buyers from the USA and Canada in particular, but also a large number of Mexican and Colombian buyers took advantage of the numerous match-making opportunities at Texhibition. Many B2B meetings took place and led to numerous orders being placed, including from key accounts such as Alexander Wang, Asos, Forever 21, Sainsbury's, Veronica Beard etc.

In the fringes of the EU Research and Innovation Days, the European Commission has announced 9 new European co-funded and co-programmed partnerships, including “Textiles of the Future”. These partnerships will be at the core of the Horizon Europe Strategic Plan 2025-2027, addressing the green and digital transition, and a more resilient, competitive, inclusive and democratic Europe.

EURATEX has been working towards such a partnership over the last few years. Investing in innovation is a critical component to successfully implement the EU Strategy for Sustainable and Circular Textiles. EURATEX therefore welcomes the Commission’s decision, as a measure to help their 200.000 EU textile companies to remain competitive.

The Textiles of the Future Partnership will be co-managed by the European Technology Platform for Future of Textiles and Clothing (ETP). With a deep knowledge in textiles research and a vast innovation network, ETP stands ready to bring that partnership into reality.

The Lenzing Group has created an innovative concept that contributes to the sustainable protection of our glaciers while inspiring collective action for sustainable practices and a circular economy in the nonwovens and textile value chain. The concept, which was artistically staged by the Italian artist Michelangelo Pistoletto, was presented on March 21, 2024, as part of the International Day of Forests celebrations at the Palais des Nations, the headquarters of the United Nations Office at Geneva (UNOG).

The melting of glaciers is being severely impacted by global warming. Geotextiles are used to protect ice and snow. However, the nonwovens used for this are made of fossil-based fibers, which allow microplastics1 to enter the valley via streams and may enter the food chain through small organisms and animals. Nonwovens made from cellulosic LENZING™ fibers, which are biodegradable at the end of their life cycle and can be completely recycled, are the sustainable solution to this problem.

The covering of a small area with the new material made from LENZING™ fibers was tested for the first time during a field test on the Stubai Glacier. Four meters of ice were saved from melting. This was confirmed in a study conducted by the University of Innsbruck and the Austrian glacier lift operators on the Stubai Glacier in Tyrol (Austria). In 2023, the pilot project was successfully extended to all Austrian glaciers used by tourists.

Last year, the project was also awarded first place in the prestigious Swiss BIO TOP Awards for wood and material innovations.

Lenzing takes this innovation project as an opportunity to inspire collaborative action towards sustainable practices and circularity in the textile value chain. Together with a network of innovative partners, Lenzing is working on processing geotextiles into new textile fibers giving them a second life as a garment. The use of geotextiles is usually limited to two years, after which the nonwovens would be disposed of. In the first phase of the pilot project, the recycling of nonwovens made for geotextiles use has been successfully tested and a fashionable “Glacier Jacket” has been produced, showcasing that the recycling of geotextiles is viable. Next to Lenzing, the network includes Marchi & Fildi Spa, a specialist in the field of mechanical recycling, the denim fabric manufacturer Candiani Denim and the fashion studio Blue of a Kind.

The DITF is leading the joint project "DACCUS-Pre*". The basic idea of the project is to develop a new building material that stores carbon in the long term and removes more CO₂ from the atmosphere than is emitted during its production.       

In collaboration with the company TechnoCarbon Technologies, the project is now well advanced - a first demonstrator in the form of a house wall element has been realized. It consists of three materials: Natural stone, carbon fibers and biochar. Each component contributes in a different way to the negative CO₂ balance of the material:

Two slabs of natural stone form the exposed walls of the wall element. The mechanical processing of the material, i.e. sawing in stone cutting machines, produces significant quantities of stone dust. This is very reactive due to its large specific surface area. Silicate weathering of the rock dust permanently binds a large amount of CO₂ from the atmosphere.

Carbon fibers in the form of technical fabrics reinforce the side walls of the wall elements. They absorb tensile forces and are intended to stabilize the building material in the same way as reinforcing steel in concrete. The carbon fibers used are bio-based, produced from biomass. Lignin-based carbon fibers, which have long been technically optimized at DITF Denkendorf, are particularly suitable for this application: They are inexpensive due to low raw material costs and have a high carbon yield. In addition, unlike reinforcing steel, they are not susceptible to oxidation and therefore last much longer. Although carbon fibers are more energy-intensive to produce than steel, as used in reinforced concrete, only a small amount is needed for use in building materials. As a result, the energy and CO₂ balance is much better than for reinforced concrete. By using solar heat and biomass to produce the carbon fibers and the weathering of the stone dust, the CO₂ balance of the new building material is actually negative, making it possible to construct CO₂-negative buildings.

The third component of the new building material is biochar. This is used as a filler between the two rock slabs. The char acts as an effective insulating material. It is also a permanent source of CO₂ storage, which plays a significant role in the CO₂ balance of the entire wall element.

From a technical point of view, the already realized demonstrator, a wall element for structural engineering, is well developed. The natural stone used is a gabbro from India, which has a high-quality appearance and is suitable for high loads. This has been proven in load tests.  Bio-based carbon fibers serve as the top layer of the stone slabs. The biochar from Convoris GmbH is characterized by particularly good thermal insulation values.

The CO₂ balance of a house wall made of the new material has been calculated and compared with that of conventional reinforced concrete. This results in a difference in the CO₂ balance of 157 CO₂ equivalents per square meter of house wall. A significant saving!

* (Methods for removing atmospheric carbon dioxide (Carbon Dioxide Removal) by Direct Air Carbon Capture, Utilization and Sustainable Storage after Use (DACCUS).

• Solvay’s FY 2023 financial statements reflect the Partial Demerger completed on December 9, 2023, with the Specialty businesses transferred to Syensqo classified as discontinued operations for 2023.
• New Solvay leadership team committed to drive the transformation of the company.
• Net sales for the full year 2023 at €4,880 million were down -12.6% organically versus 2022, driven primarily by volume declines. In Q4, net sales decreased organically by -18.9% from both lower volumes and prices.
• Underlying EBITDA of €1,246 million for the full year 2023 was stable (+0.2%) on an organic basis compared to a record 2022, with positive Net Pricing and lower fixed costs offsetting the drop in volumes. EBITDA in the fourth quarter was down -24.5% organically vs Q4 2022, fully driven by lower volumes, with variable costs reduction offsetting price erosion, while fixed costs decreased slightly.
• Underlying net profit from continuing operations was €588 million in 2023 compared to €740 million in 2022.
• Free Cash Flow of €561 million in 2023 (+17.3% vs. €479 million in 2022) resulting in a record FCF conversion ratio of 45.4%, thanks to the strong EBITDA performance and to the positive impact from working capital variation.
• ROCE was 20.4% in 2023, -2.5pp compared to 2022 as a result of lower profit.
• Solid balance sheet at the end of December 2023, in line with the target capital structure announced in November 2023, with an underlying net debt of €1.5 billion, which translates into a leverage ratio of 1.2x.
• Total proposed gross dividend of €2.43 per share, subject to shareholders’ approval during the next Ordinary General Meeting of May 28, 2024.
• Solvay continues to reduce its GHG emissions (-19% vs 2021, scope 1 and 2).
• 2024 Outlook: Organic growth of the underlying EBITDA of -10% to -20% compared to restated 2023; Free cash flow of minimum €260 million

2024 outlook
Across its product portfolio, Solvay expects current demand levels to continue over the next few months and, as such, expects H1 2024 volumes to be broadly in line with H2 2023. At this point, there is little visibility on the second half of the year, however there are signs that the trend in the second half could improve. Solvay expects Soda Ash prices over FY 2024 to be lower than FY 2023, consistent with the current market environment, which will affect the business margin in 2024. Pricing trends across Solvay’s other businesses are forecasted to be more resilient year on year.

Lower energy and raw materials prices should offset some of the negative pressure on the topline. More importantly, Solvay has started to implement cost savings initiatives that will start to deliver results in 2024.

For full year 2024, Solvay expects an organic growth of the underlying EBITDA by -10% to -20% versus a high comparison base in 2023, especially in H1. This translates into a range of €925 million to €1,040 million at a 1.10 EUR/USD exchange rate.

The organic growth of the underlying EBITDA is calculated from a 2023 restated figure of €1,154 million (vs a reported figure of €1,246 million).

Free cash flow to Solvay shareholders from continuing operations is expected to be greater than €260 million, in line with the cash usage prioritization presented during the Capital Market Day in November 2023. It is supported by Solvay’s ability to manage its capex and working capital to ensure the financing of its businesses and the payment of dividends while keeping the strength of its balance sheet intact.

Solvay remains committed to implement its strategic roadmap and reconfirms its 2028 targets as communicated at the Capital Markets Day of November 2023.

In a move to enhance the global competitiveness of the Turkish apparel industry, the Istanbul Apparel Exporters' Association (IHKIB) has entered into a collaborative agreement with the Worldwide Responsible Accredited Production (WRAP).

IHKIB, representing 80% of Türkiye's apparel exports, aims to facilitate and guide its members in navigating new markets and staying abreast of sectoral developments.
WRAP, a US-based non-profit organization, focuses on promoting safe, lawful, humane, and ethical working conditions within the textile and apparel industry.

Mr. Selcuk Mehmet Kaya, Chairman of the International Relations and Sustainability Committee of IHKIB, and Mr. Avedis Seferian, President and CEO of WRAP, officially inked a collaboration agreement on March 8, 2024, marking a significant step towards fostering business relations between Türkiye and the USA. The agreement focuses on a pilot project developed by IHKIB and WRAP, aiming to identify leading Turkish apparel companies exporting to the USA and encouraging these facilities to attain WRAP certification. In return, WRAP will provide in-person and virtual training at no charge to guide these facilities through the certification process. The project seeks to strengthen business ties between Türkiye and the USA, creating additional opportunities for mutual cooperation between the parties in both countries.

Members of TMAS – the Swedish textile machinery association – will display technologies in alignment with the theme of digitalisation at the forthcoming Techtextil and Texprocess 2024 exhibitions, taking place in Frankfurt from April 23-26th.

Automatic handling
The fully automated and digitised handling solutions for finished garments, home textiles and furniture of Eton Systems, for example, will be demonstrated at Texprocess.

Designed to increase value-added time in production by eliminating manual transportation and minimising handling, the individually addressable product carriers are fully managed and controlled by the latest ETONingenious™ software. This web based real-time data collection and information system continuously accumulates, processes and makes all production information instantly available to supervisors, quality control personnel and management.

Bespoke seams
Svegea will demonstrate its EC 300-XS colarette technology, which is used by garment manufacturers around the world for the production of tubular apparel components such as cuff and neck tapes and other seam reinforcements.

The EC 300-XS collarette cutter on show in Frankfurt is equipped with the latest E-Drive II system providing the operator with a very user-friendly touchscreen, providing full control of the cutting process. An accompanying FA 350 fully automatic roll slitting machine will also be demonstrated.

Digital finishing
At Techtextil meanwhile, Baldwin Technology Co. will provide full details of how its highly digitised TexCoat G4 non-contact spray technology for textile finishing and remoistening not only reduces water, chemicals and energy consumption, but also provides the flexibility to adapt to customer requirements in terms of single and double-sided finishing applications.

TexCoat G4 can reduce water consumption and chemical usage by as much as 50% compared to traditional padding application processes.

Yarn tension
Celebrating its 60th anniversary this year, Eltex will display the latest Eltex EyETM system for the continuous monitoring of yarn tension on warp beams.

The Eltex EyETM eliminates problems when warping, and also in subsequent weaving or tufting processes, monitoring the yarn tension on all positions in real-time and enabling a minimum and maximum allowable tension value it be set. If any yarn’s tension falls outside these values the operator can be warned or the machine stopped.

The Eltex ACT and ACT-R units meanwhile go beyond yarn tension monitoring to actually control yarn tension. This extends the application range greatly. The plug and play system automatically compensates for any differences in yarn tension that arise, for example from irregularities in yarn packages.

Accumulated know-how
Vandewiele Sweden AB benefits from all of the synergies and accumulated know-how of Vandewiele Group, supplying weft yarn feeding and tension control units for weaving looms to the majority of weaving machine manufacturers. It also retrofits its latest technologies to working mills to enable instant benefits in terms of productivity and control.

The company will present its latest X4 yarn feeders with integrated accessory displays (TED) as a new standard, as well as launching its own e-commerce platform – iroonline.com.

The TED function enables weft tension settings to be transferred from one machine to another, enabling a fast start-up the next time the same article is woven. The position of the S-Flex Tensioner is constantly monitored by an internal sensor – even if adjustment is made during power off.

X4 feeders are also available with integrated active tension control (ATC-W) as an option. With the ATC-W active tension control, the required tension is easily set and monitored on the integrated display. Once set, the system constantly regulates itself, ensuring consistent yarn tension during the weaving process which is constantly and accurately measured by the ATC sensor unit, sending a signal to the ATC operator unit resulting in consistently stable yarn tension at the required level.

A new promotional initiative aims to boost trade relations between Italy and India in the textile sector. 11 Italian textile machinery manufacturers will be taking part in the forthcoming technological symposia scheduled in New Delhi and Mumbai from 9 to 12 April. The two events, organized by the Italian Trade Agency and supported by the Ministry of Foreign Affairs and International Cooperation, will allow Italian companies to showcase their technologies to a selected audience of Indian textile entrepreneurs.

The textile sector is of great significance in the Indian economy, contributing more than 2% of the GDP and allowing the Country to be among the largest exporter of textile and apparel items. Moreover India represents the third largest foreign market for the Italian textile machinery industry.

In 2022 India imported Italian textile machinery for a total value of about 200 million euro. Referring to the first 9 months of 2023, the value shows a slight decrease compared to the value for the same period of the previous year, but the forecast for the current year remains positive.

Italian companies participating in the symposia, all of which are ACIMIT members, are: Autefa, Cubotex, Danitech, Lafer, Mcs, Monti-Mac, Reggiani Macchine, Salvadè, Savio, Sicam, Testa.