From the Sector

A. Monforts Textilmaschinen GmbH & Co. KG will demonstrate a range of new advances made possible by Industry 4.0 techniques at ITMA 2019 in Barcelona, Spain, from June 20-26.

At stand D101 in Hall 2, visitors will discover the possibilities of ‘digital twin’ capability – now being made available for all Monforts machine systems – and that by exploiting the latest advanced sensor technology, comprehensive technical machine data can now be virtually mapped in the cloud in real time. The data can be easily accessed using the new Monforts Smart Support and Smart Check apps for an instantaneous status overview. All specifications relating to machine performance and the production process can be mapped, to enable vastly simplified and targeted analysis for controlled planning and production. Insights harnessed from such analysis can be used to optimise the actual production process. At the same time, potential sources of error can be anticipated and eliminated, enabling improved machine availability while considerably minimising downtime.

Parts prediction
In addition, the digital twin system provides information on the individual wear parts of a system, such as, for example, converters or gears. “Operators and mill managers are informed by Smart Check sensors when maintenance or the replacement of key components will be required, well ahead of time,” explains Monforts Vice President Klaus A. Heinrichs. “Direct access to the integrated Monforts webshop allows users to instantly order such parts when they are needed, virtually preventing machine downtime.” On request, Monforts can also virtually monitor machine performance and pro-actively alert customers to the need for preventative action. In such cases, however, data is only ever called from the cloud by Monforts when customers have given their full consent, in the interests of data security. Data from Smart Check, for example, can even be used to analyse a system’s energy requirements, allowing machine operation to be optimised by tailoring production runs to the peaks and troughs of electricity costs.

• Lenzing enters the age of digital traceability
• Transparency ensured from wood to the finished garment
• Partnership with Hong Kong based TextileGenesis™

The Lenzing Group, world market leader in specialty fibers made from the renewable material wood, is strengthening its leading position in sustainability in the textile industry. Lenzing will use blockchain technology to support its TENCEL™ branded fiber business, ensuring complete transparency and traceability for brands and consumers of its fibers in the finished garment. After evaluating various initiatives Lenzing decided to join the platform of the Hong Kong based technology company TextileGenesis™ to accomplish this ambition.

Consumers increasingly want to understand the ingredients and suppliers of the products they buy, requesting a new level of transparency and traceability. The supply chain transparency from wood to garment and home textiles will enable all customers and partners to identify TENCEL™ fibers and the respective wood source in each production and distribution step. Thanks to a QR code on the final garment, consumers will be able to detect the origin of the clothes they intend to buy.

“With LENZING™ ECOVERO™ branded fibers Lenzing was the frontrunner in physical traceability and is now entering the age of digital traceability. This milestone in transparency is a further strong commitment to sustainability”, says Stefan Doboczky, Chief Executive Officer of the Lenzing Group. “Together with TextileGenesis™, we aim to create an unmatched level of transparency for brands and consumers. With this step Lenzing will further help to green up the textile industry.”

Lenzing will carry out several pilot tests over the next few months involving partners along the entire value chain. Lenzing expects the platform to be fully operational as of 2020.

Lectra has been awarded by a jury of experts the Texprocess Innovation Award 2019 in the New Process category for its latest ground-breaking offer, Fashion On Demand by Lectra.

Fashion On Demand by Lectra automates the entire personalization process, from order reception and product development to the final cutting stages. Resulting from a four-year research-and-development process, the digital solution for on-demand production was developed based on Industry 4.0 principles.

"We are very proud to receive this prestigious award at Texprocess, the biggest international event for all fashion players. Fashion On Demand by Lectra allows companies to produce personalized clothing at the same speed as ready-to-wear and avoid overstocking by producing in precise quantities,” states Holger Max-Lang, President, Northern & Eastern Europe, Middle East, Lectra.

Fashion On Demand by Lectra is available in the form of two packages, one dedicated to made to measure, with pattern adjustments, and the other to customization, with product characteristic alterations. This turnkey solution automates on-demand production right from order reception to production development stages and the cutting room. Companies can define their desired product personalization criteria for each item depending on the package, and launch production processes right from the get-go, without interfering with their standard workflows.

"This innovative cloud-based platform solution ensures efficient made-to-measure and customization production processes and facilitates nearshoring for companies that offer individualized products. This technology is up and running and can be used by the fashion industry on a plug-and-play basis," say the jury experts. “Since 2011, the Texprocess Innovation Award has been honoring remarkable achievements and new developments in the Texprocess product range under two categories: new technology and new process. The winners are selected based on criteria such as degree of innovation, choice of materials and environmental sustainability."

Two successful events made in Bangladesh where fashion and innovation have, once more, come together to champion change and foster sustainability.

Bangladesh has a mission: to fetch its share in the global 130 billion dollars market of smart apparel by 2025. To reach this goal, the country aims to foster modern, innovative, technology-driven apparel manufacturing and to constantly engage in supply chain conversations.

A fitting stage for these conversations was the 2nd Bangladesh Fashionology Summit that took place on day 1 of the Bangladesh Denim Expo – held on 02-03 May 2019 at the International Convention City Bashundhara. This was a platform for thinkers, innovators, experts, educators to share innovative ideas on this edition’s main theme: “Digitalization – the Next Destination”. Sessions were provided to learn more on how innovation, specifically digitalization, fits in the world of the fashion industry.

Further to an increase in cost of production, the industry is even more compelled to focusing on finding added value for products. Here is where the smart clothing market comes in, an opportunity on which a thriving community of thinkers will commit to lead the “current-generation” garment production into the “next-generation” apparel manufacturing by using latest digital technology.

The Summit has also provided a Tech Innovation Zone (Tech Innovators: Trustrace, Shimmy Technologies, Infinited Fiber, Seachange Technologies, Reverse Resource) in collaboration with Fashion For Good, a platform for innovators to meet with the other components of the eco system, and an Exhibition Zone (Exhibitors: Pivot88, Lectra, Sindabad.com, Pacific Associates, Earlycavehuman, Foursource Group GmbH, A2i-Access to Information, GoBlu, Rudholm Group, QuizRR, BRAC, SNV, SR Asia, Swiss Contact) for companies to showcase their latest innovations, paying special attention to information sharing.

• Clean Technology. Smart Factory.

Remscheid – Oerlikon invites all visitors to this year's ITMA in Barcelona on a journey into the future of manmade fiber production. From 20 to 26 June 2019, the world market leader will show all its guests its vision of a sustainable and automated manmade fiber production in a virtual 4D showroom at its 1,000 m² stand in Hall 7, A101: "Clean Technology. Smart Factory." is the motto of the future. And this is only a stone's throw away from reality at the stand. Because today Oerlikon is presenting four world premieres for efficient machine and plant concepts in a new, innovative industrial design. Together with numerous other innovations, all this forms the new DNA of the Oerlikon Manmade Fibers segment.

The challenges for the manmade fiber industry are manifold and Oerlikon shows its customers solutions:

1. Choosing the right business model
Price pressure on fiber and yarn manufacturers is growing due to global market consolidation. Here it is important to position oneself correctly. Are you producing polyester, nylon or polypropylene for the niche market and skimming off good margins with innovative products and ingenious material properties, or are you looking for business success through economies of scale in the volume market such as the constantly growing apparel sector? Oerlikon has the right answers for both business models. And the most important thing: the market leader supplies all solutions from a single source. See for yourself at the world premieres of the machine and system concepts of WINGS FDY PA6, BCF S8 Tricolor and the revolutionary eAFK Evo texturing machine.

2. Finding alternatives for good personnel
Finding good operators in the manmade fiber industry is becoming increasingly difficult, even in emerging industrial nations such as China, India and Turkey. The solution is obvious. What, for example, the automotive industry achieved years ago with the 3rd Industrial Revolution is now also taking its course in the textile industry. And at the same time it is even shifting up a gear. In the next step, automation in combination with digitization will lead to new, sustainable production. Oerlikon will be showing how automation and digitization interact at ITMA. Self-learning machines and systems, artificial intelligence (AI), remote services and edge computing are just a few of the key words in the digital half of the new Oerlikon Manmade Fibers DNA.

3. Guarantee quality and traceability
The qualities of the fibers and yarns must meet the highest demands and their production must be traceable throughout the textile value chain. This no longer only plays an important role in the automotive industry, where safety is of paramount importance. Other branches of industry that use fibers, yarns and nonwovens also want to know where the raw materials they produce for consumer articles come from. Legal regulations are demanding this more and more frequently. Oerlikon offers optimal solutions with its DIN ISO certified manufacturing processes. More than half of the world's manmade fiber producers are convinced every day that the qualities produced on Oerlikon Barmag, Oerlikon Neumag and Oerlikon Nonwoven equipment are right – and all visitors to ITMA can do the same on site.

4. Efficient and sustainable production
In the future, the materials produced from manmade fibers must become part of a further improved global recycling economy. The recycling of polyester – with over 80% market share the most frequently used manmade fiber in the world – has not only been on the agenda since today. Oerlikon already has solutions at hand: from PET bottles to fibers and filaments, to textiles and carpets. ITMA is the next step. With the VacuFil® Oerlikon in cooperation with the subsidiary company BBEngineering presents the world premiere No. 4 – a recycling solution within a running polyester production with a waste-free approach.

Vision becomes reality
The Oerlikon Manmade Fibers segment thus demonstrates what the ITMA in Barcelona promises as the world's leading trade fair for textile machinery and plant construction: "Innovating the world of textiles – sourcing for a sustainable future". In Hall 7, A101, this is already reality.

DyStar®, the leading dyestuff and solution provider, for the first time will use the PERFORMANCE DAYS in Munich (May 8th & 9th) as a platform to showcase its innovative new products and processes, partly developed in collaboration with selected partners.
Located at Hall C6, Booth P08, show visitors will have a chance to participate in several workshops that allow direct interaction with the specialists from DyStar Group on environmental and technical solutions to improve efficiency and significantly reduce waste of valuable resources.

The workshop on the Cadira® Polyester module, for example, will highlight that reductions of 50% water usage and more than 40% of energy consumption are possible with optimized processing.

As a market leading supplier of high-quality water-based inks for digital printing, DyStar will present their renowned Jettex® reactive, acid, disperse and vat ink ranges that enable digital printers to achieve digital prints with high fastness levels, outstanding depth and sustainable processing results.

Being fully committed to sustainability, DyStar will leverage on the PERFORMANCE DAYS fair to reach out to more brands and retailers with similar goals for potential collaboration in the areas of color, color inspiration, communication and realization tools.

Two of the five workshops conducted per day will also highlight examples of successful collaborations that provided innovation and efficiency to the textile industry.

Experts from LENZING™ will present LENZING™ Lyocell, a sustainable cellulosic fiber that provides innovative solutions for workwear.

Additionally, Datacolor® will present the new ColorReader Pro, a new Ultra-Portable Color Measurement Tool for the textile and apparel industry.

DyStar cordially invites you to Performance Days Functional Fabrics Fair, where the latest trends in fabric development for the functional textile industry will be showcased.

Companies get a close-up of new consumer buying journey and explore how they can meet challenges with Lectra’s latest technologies and industry experts

Lectra cements its position as a fashion industry opinion maker by leading a much-awaited discussion on new consumer behavior at its latest fashion event, ‘Winning Over the New Fashion Consumer’ in Bordeaux-Cestas, France.

More than 75 industry insiders and market experts from 14 countries convened at Lectra’s International Advanced Technology and Conference Center (IATC) for two days to examine how the digital age is bringing about major shifts in consumer behavior. Today’s digitally attuned consumers have become co-creators in the production process, changing the fashion landscape entirely.

The keynotes, live demonstrations, and customer testimonials highlighted the importance of process digitization and data analysis for meeting new consumer needs. The event kicked off with two keynote speakers. Peter Jeavons, Managing Director of First Insight Europe, stressed the importance of using data to understand the hyperconnected fashion consumer. Craig Crawford, Strategist and Founder of CrawfordIT, outlined the arising challenges and opportunities from these changes, and urged fashion companies to embrace digital transformation internally by cultivating a conducive environment for it.

Beyond just understanding the new fashion consumer, the event stressed on the importance of leveraging data to deliver customer-centric services and products. Lectra presented their responses to this challenge in the form of two new major solutions, Kubix Link and Fashion on Demand by Lectra.

Itema held the first Itema Denim Day on the 12th of April, a full day dedicated to deepen trends and challenges throughout the denim sector, with a focus on how to meet sustainable perspectives by presenting and introducing new business models and innovations. The event provided the unique opportunity to share ideas, experiences and best practices. This one-day event shed light on the most recent green innovations through a market and customer-oriented approach.

The whole supply chain was the centre of a lively debate which highlighted the connections between ethics and business, the most recent product and process innovations, key technologies, as well as a survey of the digitalisation in the value chain for the textile sector. The event also highlighted the most recent rapier, air-jet and projectile weaving innovations designed and developed by Itema for denim fabrics. The innovations presented, tailored and customized for denim production, attracted great interest from denim mills delegates attending the event, impressed by the considerable costs saving, user-friendliness and unparalleled innovative content of the Itema looms.

Sappi launches a sublimation paper optimised for glue-belt printers
The rapid individualisation and personalisation of fashion and home textiles on polyester-based materials using sublimation transfer is in high market demand. With this in mind, Sappi is expanding its portfolio of dye sublimation papers: with its silky-smooth reverse side, the Transjet Drive sublimation paper innovation enables better runnability on digital high-speed printers with a glue-belt system. This smooth printing performance increases productivity. Moreover, due to its low grammage, Transjet Drive offers weight per unit area advantages.

The new sublimation paper is specifically designed for glue-belt printers, but is also suitable for high-speed printers without a glue-belt system. Due to its specially treated reverse side, it adheres to the printing belt without slipping and can pass through quickly. The smooth reverse side also ensures that the paper does not stick to the adhesive-belt and that it slides away without leaving any residue on the belt. These special properties protect the glue-belt and save work steps such as cleaning or corrections during production. With grammages of 45 and 55 g/m², Transjet Drive also offers weight advantages. Here is another reason why this new product is attractive to customers: every ton of Transjet Drive gives you more printable paper area compared to heavier grammages.

On the surface, the paper is specially coated, so that the ink dries quickly and the final result on the textiles appears very colour-intensive. Thanks to fast drying, the webs can be rolled up again immediately after printing. Because of these properties, Transjet Drive is used especially for fashion and home textiles such as scarves, bed linen and curtains. The 55 g/m² version is also suitable for soft signage.

• New game-changing Kornit NeoPoly Technology with industry-first innovation for industrial polyester printing that prevents dye migration.
• New Kornit Avalanche Poly Pro system unveiled at events during April, commercially available immediately.

Kornit Digital Ltd. (NASDAQ: KRNT), a global market leader in digital textile printing innovation, unveiled the game-changing Kornit NeoPoly Technology, which is the industry’s first digital, industrial process for high-quality printing on polyester.

Polyester is the second largest category in the overall T-shirt market, it is key in the sport segment, and is growing in the athleisure and functional apparel segments. Currently polyester is printed predominantly by analog solutions, which creates major technological, cost and sustainability challenges.  

The new ground-breaking Kornit NeoPoly Technology addresses these challenges with a new process and ink set implemented in the renowned Kornit NeoPigmentTM process. Kornit’s new process handles polyester applications without compromising on design, run size, substrate or labor.

The breakthrough technological innovation is achieved by an innovative ink set and a physical and chemical process specifically developed for low temperature curing, and polyester enhancing functionalities developed to maintain fabric characteristics and provide superior fastness. This unique process prevents dye migration on polyester.  The inks are Oeko-Tex and Eco-Passport certified and do not contain PVCs or other toxic ingredients.

The first system equipped with the Kornit NeoPoly Technology is the new Kornit Avalanche Poly Pro, a member of Kornit’s world-class reliable, highly productive industrial platform. The single-step Poly Pro is the perfect system for the industry, enabling easy and cost effective short-runs and on-demand printing on polyester garments.