From the Sector

Giorgio Calculli has been appointed new managing director of ACIMIT, the Association of Italian Textile Machinery Manufacturers. A law graduate with a Master’s degree in training and employment policies, he has been on staff at ACIMIT since 2006 as head of the Association’s training, internal relations and technical department. Calculli takes over as ACIMIT managing director from Federico Pellegata, who after 25 years managing the Association has been appointed CEO of ACIMIT Servizi srl, the company set up by ACIMIT to provide services in support of associated member companies for the promotion of the Italian textile machinery industry in Italy and abroad.

“It has been a truly enriching experience,” asserts Federico Pellegata, “for which I am grateful to our associated members, ACIMIT’s Board, and the Association’s presidents who have served during my years in ACIMIT. However, my commitment to continue to promote the Italian textile machinery sector by no means ends here. As CEO of ACIMIT Servizi, I will continue to work relentlessly to ensure that ITMA, the world’s primary textile machinery trade fair, remains a representative showcase for the success of Italian manufacturers in the sector, as has been the case for the editions of the exhibition held in Italy in 2015 and 2023.”

ACIMIT managing director Giorgio Calculli comments: “I wish to thank the Board of ACIMIT for the appointment and for the opportunity to lend continuity to the work carried out by Federico Pellegata, for whom the success enjoyed at the latest edition of ITMA is only the most evident expression. I will work to further develop the membership base and ensure member companies receive maximum support from the Association in their business activities.”

Im Rahmen der diesjährigen ITMA 2023, der internationalen Textilmaschinenausstellung und Plattform für die gesamte Textilmaschinenbranche, die vom 08. bis 14. Juni 2023 in Mailand stattfand, wurde Herr Dipl.-Ing. Philipp Weigel für seine am ITM angefertigte exzellente Studienarbeit "Numerische Simulation des Struktur- und Auszugverhaltensparametrisch generierter profilierter Carbonpolymergarne" mit dem ITMA Sustainable Innovation Award in der Kategrie "Research & Innovation Excellence Award" ausgezeichnet. Er erhielt hierfür den 1. Preis, der mit 10.000 EUR dotiert ist.
 
Die Arbeit ist von großem wissenschaftlichen Interesse für die Entwicklung hochleistungsfähiger, ressourcenschonender Carbonbetonbauteile mit höchster Materialeffizienz und Nachhaltigkeit sowie für die simulative Beschreibung und digitale Auslegung der Bewehrungsstruktur.

CEMATEX-Präsident Ernesto Maurer überreichte das Preisgeld und Urkunde an die glücklichen Gewinner:nnen während der ITMA 2023 in Mailand, Italien.

Der 2. und 3. Preis ging an Absolventen des Instituts für Textiltechnik der RWTH Aachen.

Der ITMA Sustainable Innovation Award wurde von CEMATEX ins Leben gerufen, um die gemeinsamen Anstrengungen der globalen Textilindustrie zur Förderung der Nachhaltigkeit von Unternehmen durch innovative Lösungen und zur Förderung herausragender branchenspezifischer Forschung zu würdigen.
Der Preis umfasst zwei Kategorien: einen Industry Excellence Award für Textil- und Bekleidungshersteller und einen Research & Innovation Excellence Award, der für Master-Studenten offen ist.

Lectra’s Annual Shareholders’ Meeting held on April 28 appointed two new Directors, Karine Calvet and Pierre-Yves Roussel for a four-year term. They both will become members of the Strategic Committee, replacing Bernard Jourdan, Lead Director, and Anne Binder. Karine Calvet also becomes a member of the Corporate Social Responsibility (CSR) Committee.

With its new strategic roadmap for 2023-2025, the Group aims to use its expansion – mainly due to the acquisition of Gerber in June 2021 – to accelerate its growth, significantly increase the share of SaaS in its sales, and seize opportunities for external growth. Supported by the commitment of its staff and recognized by its customers, Lectra will also be at the forefront of a more sustainable future.

Karine Calvet is Vice-President EMEA responsible for Partners at AVEVA, a subsidiary of Schneider Electric. She began her career at CGI in 1993 and has spent most of it in IT: sixteen years in services companies, seven years in telecommunications, and six years in software. She has had leadership roles in telecommunications environments for leading global companies (CGI, Capgemini, Alcatel-Lucent, Verizon, Microsoft and currently Schneider-Aveva), focusing on digital transformation. Karine Calvet served as Head of Industry at Capgemini, then managed worldwide teams at Alcatel-Lucent as Vice-President, Eastern Europe then at Verizon as Managing Director. Her time at Microsoft strengthened her software expertise, her direct and indirect channels skills, and her experience in IT services. In the last two years, as Vice-President, Southern Europe then Vice-President, Partners and Alliances at Schneider-Aveva, Karine Calvet has worked closely with industrial companies to help them meet the challenges of operational efficiency, safety, cost management, sustainability and decarbonization by taking advantage of digitalization.

Pierre-Yves Roussel has been CEO of leading US fashion label Tory Burch since January 2019. He began his career in investment banking with HSBC in Brussels, then at Morgan Stanley in London. In 1990, he joined management consulting firm McKinsey & Company in France, where he led numerous consultancy assignments in the fashion, luxury, distribution and media sectors in Europe and Asia. In 1998, he was elected Partner then, in 2004, Global Senior Partner (Director). In 2004, he joined the LVMH Group Executive Committee as Executive Vice-President, Strategy and Operations, reporting directly to Bernard Arnault. In 2006, he was appointed Chairman and CEO of LVMH Fashion Group, one of the LVMH Group’s five branches of operational activity. From 2006 to 2018, he was Chairman of the Board of the brands Céline, Givenchy, Loewe, Kenzo, Pucci, Rossimoda, Marc Jacobs, Donna Karan, Berluti, JW Anderson and Nicolas Kirkwood. He has also been a member on several prestigious fashion juries including Andam, CFDA Fashion Incubator, and the LVMH Fashion Prize. He was a member of the management committee of the Chambre Syndicale de la Mode et de la Couture from 2010 to 2018. In 2018, he left the LVMH Group to take up the post of CEO – based in New York – of the company Tory Burch. Founded by his wife in 2004, the private family-run company has more than 350 stores worldwide, 13 retail websites, and nearly 5,000 employees.

• Carbios strengthens its Board of Directors with the appointments of Prof. Karine AUCLAIR, Sandrine CONSEILLER, Amandine DE SOUZA and Mateus SCHREINER GARCEZ LOPES
• Carbios has reached its CSR objective of 60% independent directors ahead of 2024 target date, and has increased its female representation

Carbios‘four new members to its Board of Directors:  Prof. Karine AUCLAIR, professor of Chemistry at McGill University, Sandrine CONSEILLER, former CEO of Aigle, Amandine DE SOUZA, General Manager of LE BHV MARAIS, Eataly and Home, DIY and Leisure Purchasing at Galeries Lafayette Group, and Mateus SCHREINER GARCEZ LOPES, Global Director for Energy Transition and Investments at Raizen, have all been appointed members of Carbios’ Board of Directors.  In the new structure, Prof. Karine AUCLAIR succeeds Jacqueline LECOURTIER, Sandrine CONSEILLER succeeds Jean FALGOUX, Amandine DE SOUZA succeeds Alain CHEVALLIER, and Mateus SCHREINER GARCEZ LOPES succeeds Jean-Claude LUMARET.

Three of the new members have strong, proven expertise in various industries covering fashion, retail and energy, as well as business development and senior executive management in high-growth markets and sectors around the world.  The new scientific expertise will also help enhance and advance Carbios’ research into biological solutions for the life cycle of plastics and textiles.  In addition, a sensitivity to CSR issues and proven results in this field was also a key selection factor to join the Board.  The new members’ combined strategic vision, solid industry experience and CSR commitments will support Carbios in its industrial and commercial plans.
 
Prof. Karine AUCLAIR is Professor of Chemistry at McGill University and holds the Tier 1 Canada Research Chair in Antimicrobials and Green Enzymes.  She has received numerous awards over the years, including the Clara Benson Award of the Canadian Society of Chemistry, the McGill Tomlinson Professorship, the Leo Yaffe Teaching Award, and the McGill Fessenden Professorship, to name a few. She is an internationally recognized bioorganic chemist with significant scientific contributions to the fields of antimicrobial resistance, biocatalysis and enzymology. Her research led to several patents notably in the clean enzymatic depolymerization of untreated, high crystallinity PET plastics for closed-loop recycling.  Her work has been published in nearly 100 peer-reviewed publications in high-impact journals, and often highlighted by the media.  As a recognized leader in her field, she is often invited to speak at industrial and academic conferences around the world, and to review theses and grant applications for worldwide institutions.
 
Sandrine CONSEILLER is former Chief Executive Officer of Aigle (the emblematic French brand committed to sustainable fashion).  Prior to joining Aigle, Sandrine was Group Marketing & Branding Executive Vice-President at Lacoste (another historic French fashion brand) from 2011 to 2015.  She contributed to the Lacoste maison turnaround with strong growth and numerous professional awards including several Cannes Lions Awards.  She was also Member of the Executive Board.  Sandrine began her career at Unilever and spent 20 years leading global businesses within various divisions, mainly in Personal Care, in Latin America, Europe, and Asia.  Sandrine is also Member of the Board of Phildar (the iconic French knitwear brand), Member of the Board of Raise Sherpa (the first philantropic endowment fund dedicated to start-ups) and is a funding partner of NEO FOUNDERS (a venture fund mentoring impact start-ups).
 
Amandine DE SOUZA is General Manager of LE BHV MARAIS (French retail, decoration and fashion department stores), Eataly (an Italian gastronomy concept franchise) and Home, DIY and Leisure Purchasing at Galeries Lafayette Group since 2018.  She has been a Member of its Executive Committee since 2020.  Amandine has 17 years’ experience in different types of companies of various sizes: from family business, to start-up,  and multinational.  She was General Manager for France at Westwing (an e-commerce start-up) from 2015 to 2018.  From 2009 to 2015, she was International Merchandise Director at Casino Group (food and non-food retail distribution).  Prior to this, she worked as a strategic consultant at Bain & Company within their Distribution and Consumer Goods Division in France and internationally.
 
Mateus SCHREINER GARCEZ LOPES is Global Director for Energy Transition and Investments at Raizen (global leader in bioenergy from Brazil), leading technology, new business development and intellectual property at the company.  He was previously Global Manager for Innovation and Business Development in Renewable Chemicals at Braskem (the largest producer of thermoplastic resins in the Americas and the world’s largest producer of biopolymers).  Before his transition to the corporate world, Mateus held several researcher and lecturer positions on Synthetic Biology and metabolic Engineering at Universities in Mexico, Germany, United States and Brazil.  He is also a Board Member of Iogen Energy Corporation, Vice-Chairman of the Board of the Brazilian Association of Bio Innovation, and Advisory Committee Member from the MIT Energy Initiative.

• Award for near-net-shape 3D meshes for use in fibre-reinforced plastics

As part of the JEC FORUM DACH 2022, the AVK Innovation Awards were presented in Augsburg on November 29th. The innovation price in the category "Research/Science" (first place) was awarded to the team of scientists Dipl.-Ing. Dominik Nuss, Dr.-Ing. Cornelia Sennewald and Prof. Dr.-Ing. habil. Chokri Cherif.

With the development of the pull-off-free Jacquard weaving technology including the technological know-how in the field of highly complex 2D and 3D fabric geometries, which has been established at the ITM of the TU Dresden for many years, Dominik Nuss has succeeded in including different yarn lengths locally into the fabric structure solely through targeted variation of the fabric weave. There-fore, it is now possible to produce completely new types of fabrics without additional draping, especially spherically curved fabrics, but also large-format spiral or even curved fabrics. The fact that the required near-net-shape geometry of the component to be reinforced can be reproduced with significantly reduced preforming steps is to be emphasized.

Continuous simulation aided engineering from CAD design to integrally woven 2D and 3D preforms by means of highly complex weave development for spatial constructions is a unique at the ITM, which was indispensable for the development of these promising woven high-tech structures. This technology is completely new and has never been carried out in this way before. The fabric structures are characterised by a high innovation level due to their geometric diversity and purposes. It can be used in numerous applications and further more contributes to the development of completely new fields of application. The technology can be implemented on all Jacquard weaving machines with only an additional device and the preform geometry is only determined by the control of the Jacquard machine. The preform geometry can be used in the full working width of the weaving machine.

Professor Chokri Cherif, Institute Director of the ITM, and his team are very pleased about these continuous research success in the constantly growing research field of 3D weaving technology, which are achieved at the ITM in close cooperation with industry and users. "This award is a special honour for our institute and confirms that the many years of our excellent research in the field of near-net-shape 3D weaving for the fibre-reinforced plastics sector plays a significant role and that we are making a significant contribution to the sustainable and resource-efficient production of lightweight structures with our development".

• Stéphane Ferreira joined Carbios as Director of Operations and Executive Committee Member, on October 10, 2022.
• Frédéric Alarcon appointed Licensing Manager
• Arnaud Tillon appointed Group Marketing Director
• New areas of expertise complete the seniority of Carbios’ leadership team, following June appointments of Mathieu Berthoud as Sourcing and Public Affairs Director, Lionel Arras as Industrial Director, and Pascal Bricout as Strategy and Finance Director.
• Departure of Martin Stephan, Deputy CEO

Carbios strengthens its organization with the appointment of Stéphane Ferreira as Director of Operations. He will be in charge of the business’ global development and will steer the relationship with Carbios’ industrial and commercial partners.

Stéphane Ferreira's team will be reinforced by two new members, including:

• Frédéric Alarcon, Licensing Manager, who joined Carbios on September 5. His role is to build and deploy the process licensing model that is at the heart of Carbios’ business model;
• Arnaud Tillon, Group Marketing Director, who joined the firm on September 12. He will support the company’s development by defining and deploying the marketing strategy. He is also in charge of reinforcing the customer culture within the organization.

Martin Stephan will leave his position as Deputy CEO on October 15, 2022, after nearly six years at Carbios.

Emmanuel Ladent, Carbios’ Chief Executive Officer: "The appointment of Stéphane Ferreira as Director of Operations is excellent news for Carbios. His extensive experience in global markets will help Carbios reach a new level, by deploying the company’s proprietary technologies on a large scale. I am also very pleased with the recent arrivals of Frédéric Alarcon and Arnaud Tillon, whose respective expertise in licenses and mass-market offers will be invaluable. Lastly, on behalf of all Carbios’ teams, I want to salute and thank Martin Stephan for his continued commitment to the company’s development. His experience, expertise and skills have been key to developing partnerships which have enabled Carbios to be so close to industrial deployment and recognized as the future worldwide leader of plastics and fibers in the circular economy."

• Senior leaders appointed to grow Green Bay operations, expand in global markets

Paper Converting Machine Company (PCMC), as part of Barry-Wehmiller’s Converting Solutions platform, has filled several key roles on the leadership team in Green Bay in alignment with the platform’s strategic plan to grow local operations and expand its global footprint.

Scott Bean has joined as Executive Vice President of Operations. He will drive manufacturing capacity and excellence across the platform’s five facilities in Green Bay, as well as its European locations in Lucca, Italy; Neuwied, Germany; and Čačak, Serbia. Bean brings 20-plus years of experience leading operations at several large global manufacturers, including Milwaukee-based Rexnord and most recently, Filtration Group, where he served as a President.

Jason Hilsberg, who joined PCMC in 2003 as a Field Service Leader and has held numerous other roles, including Sales Director, has been named Vice President of Lifecycle Support. In his new role, he leads the global field service, customer technical support and equipment modification sales teams.

Kelly Morgano has joined as the Global Vice President of People. In her new role, Morgano will lead the human resources, culture, communications and people development functions, while supporting the platform’s commitment to caring for team members. She has worked in human resources for more than 20 years, most recently with Zurn Water Solutions.

PCMC and its divisions, Hudson-Sharp and Northern Engraving, have expanded their footprint in the tissue and nonwovensconverting, bag-converting and flexographic-printing equipment markets in recent years, reporting significant revenue growth in 2021. The company has been a fixture in Green Bay since 1919.

Die Verleihung der Förder- und Kreativitätspreise 2021 der Walter Reiners-Stiftung des VDMA, Fachverband Textilmaschinen an Studierende und Nachwuchswissenschaftler:innen deutscher Universitäten für Spitzenleistungen in Studium und Promotion fand am 09. November 2021 im Rahmen der Aachen-Dresden-Denkendorf International Textile Conference 2021 statt. Die bundesweit ausgeschriebenen Förder- und Kreativitätspreise wurden erneut online durch Herrn Peter D. Dornier, Vorstandsvorsitzender der Walter Reiners-Stiftung, verliehen.

Frau Dipl.-Ing. Irina Kuznik vom Institut für Textilmaschinen und Textile Hochleistungswerkstofftechnik (ITM) der TU Dresden wurde mit dem 3.000 EUR dotierten Kreativitätspreis des Deutschen Textilmaschinenbaues 2021 für ihre exzellente Diplomarbeit „Entwicklung zur umweltfreundlichen Herstellung neuartiger Chitosanfasergarne unter Einsatz von ionischen Flüssigkeiten" ausgezeichnet.

In ihrer Diplomarbeit entwickelte Frau Kuznik einen völlig neuen Ansatz zur ökologischen und ökonomischen Herstellung von Chitosangarnen. Unter Nutzung ionischer Flüssigkeiten als gut geeignetes, neuartiges Lösungsmittel für Chitosan lässt sich Chitosan mit geringen Deacetylierungsgraden sowie reines Chitin erfolgreich auflösen. In einem Nassspinnverfahren können damit erzeugte Spinnlösungen zu neuartigen Chitosan- bzw. Chitinmonofilamenten mit sehr guten morphologischen Eigenschaften hergestellt werden. Des Weiteren lässt sich die ionische Flüssigkeit mittels eines Verdampfungsverfahrens aus dem Abwasser zurückgewinnen und wiederaufbereitet werden.

• Herr Dr.-Ing. Moniruddoza Md. Ashir vom ITM wurde am 12. Oktober 2021 für seine Dissertation "Entwicklung von neuartigen textilbasierten adaptiven Faserkunststoffverbunden mit Formgedächtnislegierungen“ mit dem Innovationspreis des Industrieclubs Sachsen 2020 ausgezeichnet.
• Der Preis ist mit 5.000 EUR dotiert und wird jährlich an einen Absolventen der TU Dresden verliehen.

Die Entscheidung zur Vergabe des Innovationspreises des Industrieclubs Sachsen 2020 erfolgte im Sommer 2021 durch ein Preisgericht. Die Verleihung des Innovationspreises erfolgte im Rahmen einer Veranstaltung des Industrieclubs Sachsen im Schloss Eckberg in Dresden am 12. Oktober 2021.

In der Dissertation werden alternative Ansätze auf Basis von innovativen textilbasierten adaptiven Faserkunststoffverbunden (FKV) mit strukturintegrierten Formgedächtnislegierungen konzipiert, umgesetzt, erprobt und im Vergleich mit konventionellen technischen Lösungen evaluiert. Daher galt es, eine Vielzahl bisher ungelöster konzeptioneller sowie textil- und materialspezifischer Fragestellungen zu bearbeiten und tiefgreifend zu analysieren. Hierzu zählen die Entwicklung neuartiger Ansätze und technologischer Lösungen sowohl zur reproduzierbaren Einstellung einer anforderungsgerechten Grenzschicht zwischen der Formgedächtnislegierung in Drahtform sowie dem umgebenden Faserverbundwerkstoff, als auch zur vollautomatischen Integration des textilverarbeitbaren Aktors in die Verstärkungsstruktur. Weitere Zielstellungen bestanden in der Ermittlung von Struktur-Funktionseigenschaftsbeziehungen, dem Nachweis der funktionalen Langzeitstabilität sowie der Konzeptionierung und Erprobung von industrierelevanten Funktionsdemonstratoren. Hier wurden adaptive FVK als bionisch inspirierter Flug-, Nachgiebigkeits-, Greif-, Spann-, gezielter Flüssigkeitssteuerungs-, Wisch- und Fortbewegungsmechanismus konzipiert. Diese Demonstratoren repräsentieren alle wesentlichen Funktionalitäten der adaptiven FVK-Kinematik und lassen sich leicht auf andere industrielle Anwendungsbereiche übertragen, wie z. B. die Flugzeug-, Automobil-, Medizin-, Soft-Robotik-, Bau- oder Industrietechnikbranche.

Die Forschungs- und Entwicklungsarbeiten erfolgten in enger Zusammenarbeit mit der Industrie, wie z. B. thoenes Dichtungstechnik GmbH und Elbe Flugzeugwerke GmbH und werden zukünftig am ITM intensiv fortgesetzt. Die neu entwickelte Technologie und Strukturen werden dem Leichtbau insbesondere als Knotenelemente für Rahmentragwerke im Fahrzeugbau, in der Luft- und Raumfahrt, im Maschinenbau sowie auch in der Architektur neue Impulse verleihen. Gegenwärtig wird forschungsseitig die Anwendung dieser Strukturen für medizinische Bereiche, insbesondere orthopädische oder prothetische Hilfsmittel, vorangetrieben.

• CEO Stefan Doboczky will not extend contract and will step down at end of third quarter 2021

The Supervisory Board of Lenzing AG, a world’s leading producer of wood-based cellulosic fibers, has come to a mutual agreement with its longstanding Chief Executive Officer Stefan Doboczky to end his contract. Doboczky has informed the Supervisory Board that he will not be available for another extension of his contract. With great regret the Supervisory Board of Lenzing AG accepts his resignation and the parties mutually agreed to end the contract effective September 30, 2021.

“My sincere thanks go to Stefan Doboczky for his exceptional achievements at Lenzing. The design and implementation of the transformation of Lenzing AG into a global specialty fiber leader and the positioning of the company as a recognized sustainability champion have been major accomplishments of Stefan Doboczky over the last years”, said Chairman of the Supervisory Board, Peter Edelmann. “Thanks to his leadership, Lenzing AG finds itself today on a stable and profitable growth track with a clear commitment to become climate-neutral by 2050. And all of that in spite of the challenging environment of the COVID-19 pandemic”, said Edelmann.

Stefan Doboczky: “Developing and consistently implementing the Lenzing strategy has been the cornerstone of my work in recent years. After extensive consideration, I have decided that this is the right time for a personal change. The strategy is in place, the company is well on track – now is the ideal moment to pass on the baton. And one thing is certain: Lenzing will always have a very special place in my heart.”

Lenzing AG remains on track with its guidance for the full year 2021 as announced with the half-year results. Cord Prinzhorn has been appointed interim CEO. Prinzhorn is Member of the Supervisory Board of Lenzing AG and will be available until a successor is found. The Supervisory Board will immediately start the search process.