From the Sector

International experts will discuss topics along the entire cellulose fibre value chain at the upcoming Cellulose Fibres Conference, 8–9 March 2023 in Cologne and online.

How can the cellulose fibre industry contribute to the sustainability and circularity of the textile sector? How can fibre markets achieve a circular economy for their materials? What are the most sustainable technologies on the market? And, are there innovative, interesting raw materials and technologies worth exploring to meet the challenges of the coming years?

These and other questions in the field of cellulose fibres will be discussed within the program of the Cellulose Fibres Conference 2023. The two-day event will provide insights into the latest developments of the cellulose fibre sector and introduce innovative start-ups, technologies as well as novel fibre applications. A special focus will be set on the textile sector and its awaited paradigm shift towards circular economy in the following years.

Seven sessions will provide in depth views from fibre production to recycling, policy and market trends:

• Strategies, Policy Framework of Textiles and Market Trends,
• Circular Economy and Recyclability of Fibres,
• Alternative Feedstocks and Supply Chains,
• Innovation Award “Cellulose Fibre Innovation of the Year 2023″,
• Sustainability and Environmental Impacts,
• Ionic Liquids and New Technologies for Pulps, Fibres and Yarns,
• New Technologies and Applications beyond Textiles.

The full conference program is available here.

• adidas’ first new label in five decades, adidas Sportswear, built for everyday movements and occasions, will launch worldwide from 9 February 2023
• Following Jenna Ortega joining its global family, the brand also announces her as the face of the new label and its ‘All That You Are’ campaign
• The new line is fronted by AVRYN and Tiro Suit to level up the wearer’s style for the everyday

Complementing the brand’s Performance and Originals labels, the new line adidas Sportswear aims to level up the wearer’s everyday look via a range of fresh fits that use the latest performance technology to bring the same comfort and confidence to the everyday, as its performance collections have been for athletes for decades.

Actress Jenna Ortega makes her adidas debut fronting the all-new label and its Spring Summer 23 collection. Cementing herself as a next generation icon; often seen moving through the heart of culture with style, passion and purpose, unapologetically expressing all that she is and all that she stands for.

Jenna Ortega shared: “The way I express myself, whether this is vocally or aesthetically, is something I personally put a lot of energy into as I know how much power it can have in inspiring others. Embracing all that I am and all that I stand for continues to be a journey and through new experiences, I am learning and discovering more sides to myself. I am huge advocate of expressing all your different pursuits, passions, and traits, whether that is through what you do, what you wear or what you champion – which is why I was so excited to work with adidas on this new label.”

The adidas Sportswear collection offers specific performance technologies through simple cutlines, colorways and stripped back design details, with comfort running through its every fiber. The collections includes the Tiro Suit,  adidas’ iconic tracksuit silhouette with a deep heritage in football, and AVRYN, a shoe made in part with recycled materials.

Alongside Jenna Ortega, the campaign will also see a wider collective of adidas partners coming together to celebrate a comfort-first mindset and the power of self-expression, including Premier League current golden boot holder and music lover Son Heung-min, professional basketballer, off-court sketching enthusiast and self-care advocate Trae Young, Women’s Super League forward and nature lover Mary Fowler and renowned gamer and thrill-seeker Carolina Voltan.

All of AkzoNobel’s locations in North America are now operating on 100% renewable electricity – helping to drive the company’s ambition of reducing carbon emissions across the full value chain by 50% by 2030 (baseline 2018).

The milestone – reached at the beginning of the year – is the latest in AkzoNobel’s ongoing efforts to transition to 100% renewable electricity at all its sites globally, with Europe having achieved the landmark at the start of 2022.  

The transition to 100% renewable electricity in North America includes manufacturing sites, offices, warehouses and research and development facilities. However, the company is looking much further than its own operations.
Examples of how AkzoNobel is moving to 100% renewable electricity globally include:

• Self-generated renewable electricity – by installing solar panels at many of their locations and continue to make steady progress
• Sourcing renewable electricity – the electricity generated by their solar panels covers only part of their total electricity consumption needs. For the remainder, they'll continue to purchase renewable electricity with certificates of origin.

Beste x HeiQ AeoniQ™ announce their partnership with the launch of a capsule in the CARPINI collection at Milano Unica. The fabrics including HeiQ AeoniQ™ are crafted by the Italian textiles manufacturer Beste, well known for supplying high-end fabrics for premium and luxury brands.

The fabrics capsule collection for S/S 24 includes 12 articles made with 100% HeiQ AeoniQ™, linen, and HeiQ AeoniQ™ blends, and cotton and HeiQ AeoniQ™ blends in several different proportions.
The collection is named FLOW, as related to the movement of water and air to be in tune with Nature’s balance and rhythm, with a color range including hay, black, water, caramel, violet, dust, denim, lime, and cobalt.

With this initiative, Beste becomes the first partner to incorporate the HeiQ AeoniQ™ fiber into its active fabric portfolio, and also its Tessuteka, the library that keeps all the fabrics produced by the company since 1993.

For Carlo Centonze, HeiQ’s CEO “the partnership with Beste makes total sense for all the values embodied by HeiQ AeoniQ™ that we both share, namely its commitment to circular ethics, practice and promote sustainability, and have a positive impact in the environment while also creating new business opportunities that the market and the Planet so urgently need.”

According to Giovanni Santi, Beste’s CDA president: “Beste SpA benefit company is strongly committed to developing a positive and responsible impact over the environment and the social fabric it is surrounded by. To meet this precise criterion, we use HeiQ AeoniQ™, a new biodegradable fiber developed by HeiQ, a Swiss chemical company that is Beste's constant partner in this indispensable green revolution. The introduction of HeiQ AeoniQ™, namely a fiber that is cellulosic in nature but with characteristics and performances similar to polyester ones, concerns a significant step in the reduction of CO2 emissions and plastics. It is not only a responsible choice, but it also deals with a precise and courageous positioning in the constant battle in favor of our planet by starting from the textile innovation front.”

The new Beste x HeiQ AeoniQ™ fabrics will be displayed at Beste’s booth during the Milano Unica trade show from January 31st to February 2nd, in Milan, Italy.

With the Earth population reaching 8 billion in November 2022, the need to address the issue of textile waste becomes more critical.

According to earth.org, 92 million tons of textile waste is produced every year, a number that is expected to soar to 134 million tons by the end of the decade. Around 85% of all textiles discarded in the US are said to end up in landfills, leading to land and water pollution impacting first and foremost local communities.

Archroma, a company who creates colors for fashion, decided to look at the issue creatively: what if it could create colors from waste fashion?
The company had already developed a way to turn waste from the herbal and food industry into its range of EarthColors® featured by brands such as G-Star, Patagonia, Esprit, Tom Taylor, Pangaia, UGG, and Primark. Now they are is introducing a new innovation: the FiberColors* technology.

With this technology, Archroma upcycles textile waste into colors. The colors are synthesized from a minimum content of 50% waste-based raw material.
R&D experts have developed a way to use cotton and/or polyamide and their blends (with a >95% purity) to substitute the major part of the petroleum-based raw material usually used to make dyestuff.

The resulting FiberColors* range, which is patent-pending and therefore exclusive to Archroma, includes five dyes covering a palette of timeless shades: Diresul® Fiber-Teak (brown shades), Diresul® Fiber-Ochre (olive shades), Diresul® Fiber-Maroon (bordeaux shades), Diresul® Fiber-Slate (blue grey shades) and Diresul® Fiber-Graphite (dark grey shades).

The dyes are especially suited for cellulose fibers such as cotton, viscose, linen and kapok, and can be used in continuous, exhaust, denim and garment dyeing and printing processes.

The AVK Working Group SMC/BMC and the European Alliance for SMC BMC are jointly organising SMCCreate 2023 - a conference on designing with SMC and BMC composites. The event, which offers insights into the entire product design process from idea to part manufacture, is aimed at both experienced designers and those new to the use of these materials.

Around 60 participants from all over Europe attended the first SMCCreate design conference, which took place in Antwerp in June 2022. SMCCREATE 2023 will take place in Prague (Czech Republic) on 7-8 November 2023 at the Vienna House by Wyndham Diplomat Prague; conference language is English. After a successful launch, AVK and the European Alliance for SMC BMC are looking forward to the second edition of the event and invite speakers to apply with their presentation proposals by 27 February. (Mail address: info@avk-tv.de).

The aim of the conference is to help designers and engineers choose the best material solution for their applications. Presentations will focus on best practices and industrial solutions, SMC and BMC component manufacturing, material selection and product development throughout the product life cycle, from design to sustainability.

(Mail address: info@avk-tv.de).

On January 19th, BOGNER staged an exclusive fashion show and after-show party in the Hofbräuhaus in Munich, to present the Fall/Winter 2023 collections. The guests, including VIPs, customers, press and influencers, experienced the new styles for next winter up close and personal at the historically significant location for the brand.

The show in the Hofbräuhaus in Munich was a homage to Maria Bogner, style icon and wife of company founder Willy Bogner Sr., who presented her first collection in 1948, exactly 75 years ago, in a fashion show at the same location. It was she who combined fashion and function with a casual elegance and thus laying the foundation for BOGNER as an international luxury brand.

The BOGNER fall/winter 2023 collection titled "The Alpine Express" is inspired by the past glamour of train travel to exotic lands and exudes the "Loose Elegance” Bogner is known for around the world. The collections convey a sense of luxury, whether on or off the mountain.

For the third time, nova-Institute awards the “Cellulose Fibre Innovation of the Year” award in the frame of the “Cellulose Fibres Conference 2023” (8-9 March 2023). The conference advisory board nominated six remarkable products, including cellulose fibres from textile waste, banana production waste and bacterial pulp, a novel technology for producing lyocell yarns and a hygiene product. The innovations will be put to the vote of the conference audience on the first day of the event, with the awards ceremony taking place in the evening. The innovation award “Cellulose Fibre Innovation of the Year 2023” is sponsored by GIG Karasek (AT).

Here are the six nominees
Vybrana – The new generation banana fibre – GenCrest Bioproducts (India)
Vybrana is a Gencrest’s Sustainable Cellulosic Fibre upcycled from agrowaste. Raw fibres are extracted from the Banana Pseudo stem at the end of the plant lifecycle. The biomass waste is then treated by the Gencrest patented Fiberzyme technology. Here, cocktail enzyme formulations remove the high lignin content and other impurities and help fibre fibrillation. The company's proprietary cottonisation process provides fine, spinnable cellulose staple fibres suitable for blending with other staple fibres and can be spun on any conventional spinning systems giving yarns sustainable apparel. Vybrana is produced without the use of heavy chemicals and minimized water consumption and in a waste-free process where balance biomass is converted to bio stimulants Agrosatva and Bio Fertilizers & organic manure.

HeiQ AeoniQ™ – technology for more sustainability of textiles – HeiQ (Austria)
HeiQ AeoniQ™ is the disruptive technology and key initiative from HeiQ with the potential to change the sustainability of textiles. It is the first climate-positive continuous cellulose filament yarn, made in a proprietary manufacturing process and the first to reproduce the properties of polyester and nylon yarns in a cellulosic, biodegradable, and endlessly recyclable fibre.
HeiQ AeoniQ™ can be manufactured from different cellulosic raw materials such as pre- and post-consumer textile waste, biotech cellulose, and non-valorized agricultural waste, such as ground coffee waste or banana peels. It naturally degrades after only 12 weeks in the soil. Each ton of HeiQ AeoniQ™ saves 5 tons of CO2 emissions. The first garments made with this innovative cellulosic filament fiber were commercially launched in January 2023.

TENCEL™ LUXE – lyocell filament yarn – Lenzing (Austria)
TENCEL™ LUXE is LENZING’s new versatile lyocell yarn that offers an urgently needed sustainable filament solution for the textile and fashion industry. A possible botanical alternative for silk, long-staple cotton, and petrol-based synthetic filaments, is derived from wood grown in renewable, sustainably managed forests, and produced in an environmentally sound, closed-loop process that recycles water and reuses more than 99 % of organic solvent. Certified by The Vegan Society, it is suitable for a wide range of applications and fabric developments, from finer high fashion propositions to denim constructions, seamless and activewear innovations, and even agricultural and technical solutions.

Nullarbor™ – Nanollose & Birla Cellulose (Australia/India)
In 2020, Nanollose & Birla Cellulose started a journey to develop and commercialize tree-free lyocell from bacterial cellulose, called Nullarbor™. The name derives from the Latin “nulla arbor” which means “no trees”. Initial lab research at both ends led to a joint patent application with the patent “production of high-tenacity lyocell fibres made from bacterial cellulose”.
Nullarbor is significantly stronger than lyocell made from wood-based pulp; even adding small amounts of bacterial cellulose to wood pulp increases the fibre toughness. In 2022, the first pilot batch of 260kg was produced with 20 % bacterial pulp share. Several high-quality fabrics and garments were produced with this fibre. The collaboration between Nanollose & Birla Cellulose now focuses on increasing the production scale and amount of bacterial pulp in the fibre.

Circulose® – makes fashion circular – Renewcell (Sweden)
Circulose® made by Renewcell is a branded dissolving pulp made from 100 % textile waste, like worn-out clothes and production scraps. It provides a unique material for fashion that is 100 % recycled, recyclable, biodegradable, and of virgin-equivalent quality. It is used by fibre producers to make staple fibre or filaments like viscose, lyocell, modal, acetate or other types of man-made cellulosic fibres. In 2022, Renewcell, opened the world’s first textile-to-textile chemical recycling plant in Sundsvall, Sweden – Renewcell 1. The plant will eventually reach 120,000 tons of annual capacity.

Sparkle sustainable sanitary pads – Sparkle Innovations (United States)
Globally, around 300 billion period products are discarded every year, resulting in millions of tons of non-biodegradable waste. Since most conventional sanitary pads contain up to 90 % plastics, they do not biodegrade for around 600 years. Sparkle has designed sustainable, plastic-free, biodegradable and compostable Sparkle sanitary pads. From product to packaging, they are made up of around 90 % cellulose-based materials with top sheet, absorbent core, release paper, wrapping paper and packaging made of cellulose-based fibres. Whether Sparkle pads end up in a compost pit, are incinerated or end up in a landfill, they are a more sustainable alternative compared to conventional pads that contain large amounts of plastics, complex petro-chemical based ingredients and artificial fragrances. When tested according to ISO 14855-1 by a leading independent lab in Europe, Sparkle pads reached over 90 % absolute biodegradation within 90 days in commercial composting conditions.

Adient, a supplier of seating systems for the automotive industry, has been certified as a “Top Employer 2023” with its EMEA organization.
 
25 plants of the automotive seating supplier participated in the assessment process, including locations in the Czech Republic, Hungary, Northern Macedonia, Romania, Serbia, and Poland. All plants were assessed by the renowned Top Employers Institute in six HR domains, consisting of 20 topics, for example, People Strategy, Work Environment, Talent Acquisition, Learning, Diversity and Inclusion, and Wellbeing.

Nebahat Gueler, Vice President HR Adient EMEA: “The Top Employers certification is a recognition of our commitment at Adient to an inclusive and positive working culture, which we want to continuously develop and sustain. This is a particular challenge given the dynamic market environment of the automotive sector, in which we are constantly confronted with external difficulties and changes. The certification is a confirmation of our efforts and, at the same time, a motivation towards our goal of being a top employer.”

The Biden administration’s Section 301 penalty tariffs on finished textiles and apparel counteract China’s unfair trade advantages and give U.S. manufactures a chance to compete, two key American textile manufacturing groups told the Biden administration. Removing tariffs, the associations said, would reward China, put U.S. manufacturers at a competitive disadvantage and do nothing to reduce inflation.

In a formal submission to the U.S. Trade Representative’s (USTR) office, which is conducting a four-year statutory review of the tariffs, the associations, representing the entirety of the U.S. textile production chain, expressed strong support for the continuation of current Section 301 penalty tariffs on finished textiles and apparel imports from China and outlined the effectiveness of U.S. tariff actions.

“In some cases, such as on finished apparel, the tariffs have worked to partially offset and counteract China’s unfair trade advantages,” the groups said. “The tariffs on finished textile and apparel items are giving U.S. manufacturers the chance to compete, and we are seeing encouraging investment and growth in moving some production and souring from China back to the Western Hemisphere.”

“The CAFTA-DR [Dominican Republic-Central America Free Trade Agreement] region has seen more than $1 billion in new textile and apparel investment this year, for example, which is historic and due to the textile and apparel rules negotiated under the agreement and sourcing shifts from China,” they added. “This investment and growing U.S. imports from the Western Hemisphere is attributable in part to the 301 tariffs on finished apparel.  The tariffs on finished items in our sector are broadly supported by textile/apparel producers in the hemispheric co-production chain, and it is essential that they remain in place, absent China reforming its practices.”

The submission was filed by the National Council of Textile Organizations (NCTO) and the U.S. Industrial and Narrow Fabrics Institute (USINFI), a division of the Advanced Textiles Association (AFA).

The groups have long advocated for a fair, transparent process to remove tariffs on textile machinery, certain chemicals and dyes and limited textile inputs that cannot be sourced domestically to help U.S. manufacturers compete against China.

They also stressed that lifting the tariffs on finished textiles and apparel products from China “will solidify their global dominance in this sector for generations to come and reward their abusive behaviors, exacerbate the migration crisis, hurt domestic manufacturers and workers, undermine our ability to recalibrate essential PPE supply chains, and blunt the positive supply chains shifts and investments in the Western Hemisphere that are happening.” They added it would “do nothing to solve the inflation crisis facing U.S. consumers and manufacturers right now.”

See the full submission here.