From the Sector

“LA FORMA”, a fashion film led by talented students from Istituto Secoli supported by exceptional companies such as Bemberg™ by Asahi Kasei who confirms once more its commitment toward education and valuable long-lasting relationship with Istituto Secoli.

From June 30th until July 2nd 2021, Pitti Uomo  returns physical and Bemberg™ shows up with 6 menswear outfits belonging to the cutting-edge collections created by young talents of Istituto Secoli.

100% Bemberg™ fabrics, produced by Tessitura Grisotto, has been used in printed version for the creation of these 6 looks comprising of shirts, padded outerwear, and quilted parts. Bemberg™ is a fiber that comes from the smart and technologically advanced transformation of cotton linter materials and converted through a traceable and transparent process. Its uniqueness comes from its exceptional qualitative characteristics such as the magnificent touch - which is soft and smooth as silk, like a second skin - brilliance and radiance. Bemberg™ also has antistatic and breathable performances and the fiber is biodegradable and compostable too.

Collaboration with fashion institute, such as Istituto Secoli, for Bemberg™ it is very important, especially in the name of the close and interconnected relationship between education and the world of Industry.  A support that is also important and continuous for Asahi Kasei as part of an intense commitment toward new generations.

Mit „Keep Moving“ zeigt EDUARD DRESSLER bei Engelhorn in Mannheim Bewegungsfreiheit in einer neuen Dimension. Anzüge in einer eigens entwickelten Bi-Stretchqualität versprechen ein neues Tragegefühl und erweitern damit die langjährige Philosophie der Marke von Komfort und Leichtigkeit um den nächsten Step.

„Wir freuen uns, mit dem Auftritt „Keep Moving“ bei unserem langjährigen Partner Engelhorn die Kunden begeistern zu dürfen“, sagt Dieter Reinert – Geschäftsführer von EDUARD DRESSLER. Die Flexibilität und Elastizität der Qualität wird sportlich mit einer sprintenden Büste im Anzug auf der Menswearfläche und im Schaufenster des Mannheimer Modehauses in Szene gesetzt.

Mit der neuen Fläche setzt sich das Label aktiv und leger in Szene und das Kollektionskonzept „Tailor Made - Casual Inspired“ wird einmal mehr besonders gut zur Geltung gebracht.

• THE NEW CASUAL ELEGANCE

„Seit Jahren verwenden wir den Running Gag: Das wird die anspruchsvollste Saison „ever“, doch dafür haben wir die anspruchsvollste Kollektion erstellt. Diese Aussage erhält in diesen Tagen eine besondere Wahrheit, denn von der ersten These ist auszugehen und von der zweiten sind wir überzeugt“, erläutert Dieter Reinert, Geschäftsführer von EDUARD DRESSLER.

Die Frühjahr/Sommer Kollektion 2021 von EDUARD DRESSLER steht für die perfekte Inszenierung von casualisierten Looks in Verbindung mit traditioneller Schneiderkunst. Dem Leitkonzept „Tailor Made & Casual Inspired“ folgend, wurde sie konsequenter und fokussierter weiterentwickelt.

Inspiriert von der baltischen Stadt Vilnius, die mit ihrer italienischen Architektur und ihrem farbenfrohen Stadtbild zu Recht als die „italienische Seele des Nordens“ bezeichnet wird, treffen Tradition und Moderne aufeinander – Werte, die den Kern der Marke und die SMART CASUAL TAILORING Kollektion widerspiegeln. Bei Accessoires und Futterstoffen sind Formen der Stadt als graphische Elemente umgesetzt zu sehen. Aussagestarke Materialien, Formen und Farben transportieren Leichtigkeit, Komfort und Performance. Helle, frische und zugleich optimistische Töne sorgen dabei für optische Kaufanreize und reichen von Beere kombiniert mit einem hellen Beige bis hin zu Grau mit Akzenten von Dunkelbraun und Hellblau.

Im Anzugbereich dominieren markante Optiken und Strukturen, die dem Kenner eine große Auswahl an Alternativen zu uni-nahen Mustern bieten. Im Look – zurückhaltend und auffällig zugleich – bestechen feine Mischungen aus edlen und dezenten Bildern. Das All-In-One Paket bietet dem Handel die  Möglichkeit, den Grad der Casualisierung individuell zusammenzustellen. Dadurch entsteht eine neue Flexibilität bei der Auswahl der Sortimente.

Mit der Ausweitung der Sakkokompetenz im Bereich „Create your Look“ etabliert sich das Herrenjackett mit seiner Vielfalt an Farben und variablen Kombinationsmöglichkeiten zum Key Look der Saison. Gezeigt werden Wolle-Leinen Sakkos mit leichten, sommerlichen Bundfaltenhosen aus Leinen oder auch lässigen Jogpants aus Baumwoll-Mischungen. Kombiniert mit luftigen Leinen- oder Popeline-Hemden in sommerlichen Farben entstehen perfekte Looks im Casual Style. Sakkos aus Jersey und Wolle sowie ganzjährige und saisonale NOS-Artikel runden das Angebot ab.

Casualisierte Sakkoformen, Hybridsakkos, ultraleichte Hemdendsakkos sowie die bewährten C-Pieces lassen die Bereiche Tailoring und Outerwear weiter zusammenwachsen. Goretex, Seersucker, veloursähnliche und superleichte Baumwoll-Stretch Qualitäten bestimmen das Warenbild. Der klassische Trenchcoat erfährt ein Update und etabliert sich als transsaisonaler Mantel.

Auch bei der Hose zeigt sich die Casualisierung: egal ob konfektionierte Hose, Chino oder Jogpant. Die Modelle sind lässig, gepflegt und zeigen sich jetzt verstärkt mit Bundfalte und mehr Weite. Strick, Wirk, Hemden, Polo- & T-Shirts aus feinsten italienischen Qualitäten in frischen Farben stehen für maximale Elastizität und Formstabilität und komplementieren den Look. Die aufeinander abgestimmten Krawatten und Einstecktücher lassen unter anderem das baltische Stadtmuster erkennen und runden gemeinsam mit der Auswahl an Gürteln den Total Look im Stil der Marke perfekt ab.

CELEBRATE LIFE COLLECTION – CL . COLLECTION

Outfits für die besonderen sommerlichen Momente – sie zeigen sich differenzierter in der Ausrichtung, konsequenter in der Stilistik. Die „Celebrate Life Collection“ offeriert dem Mann ein breites Spektrum im Styling der Looks und in der Kombination der Outfits. Im Zusammenspiel mit den Farben Beige und Hellblau sowie Schwarz und Rosé entstehen lässige, ungezwungene, dem Anlass entsprechende Looks.

QUALITY AND RESPONSIBILITY

Sozialverträgliche Arbeitsbedingungen, respektvoller Umgang mit Ressourcen, Verantwortung gegenüber unseren Kunden, Partnern und Mitarbeitern ist seit jeher die Leitlinie des Handelns. Verantwortung ist für uns daher kein Trend, sondern eine gelebte Philosophie, die das Unternehmen prägt und deren Ausbau ein Wegweiser für die Zukunft ist. Insbesondere bei der Auswahl unserer Stofflieferanten setzen wir auf Partner, die besonders verantwortungsvoll und zukunftsorientiert produzieren. Mit der Lanificio DRAGO aus Biella haben wir einen solchen Partner gefunden, der traditionelle italienische Werte modern und innovativ interpretiert. Mit ressourcenschonenden Techniken und modernster Webproduktion ist es DRAGO gelungen, die typisch italienische, klassische Stilistik aufzubrechen und den Oberstoffen eine Casualisierung zu verleihen, die wir für unsere Kollektionen sehr schätzen.

Die exklusive auf dem Anspruch höchster Schneiderkunst aufgebaute Herrenmodemarke EDUARD DRESSLER steht seit 1929 für „Finest Menswear“. Im Einklang mit Werten wie Handwerkskunst, Eleganz und Kultiviertheit setzt ein international arbeitendes Designerteam neue Impulse. Für EDUARD DRESSLER arbeiten mehr als 300 Mitarbeiter, alle Kollektionen werden auf eigenen Produktionsbändern gefertigt. Seit 2004 gehört das in Großostheim, Bayern, ansässige Unternehmen zur Brinkmann-Gruppe und firmiert als Dressler Bekleidungswerke Brinkmann GmbH & Co. KG. Die 1947 gegründete bugatti holding Brinkmann GmbH & Co. KG hat ihren Sitz in Herford, Westfalen.

Artisan craft, experience and high eco-technological specialization: the great tradition of fabrics for shirts which styles the future.

Search for quality, the ability to interpret elegance and a product inspired by tradition, though always trendy: these are the distinctive traits which define the vocation of Canclini 1925, a point of reference worldwide for shirt fabric manufacturing. This expertise is implemented through dynamic creativity and 100% Made in Italy artisan  craft. These are the foundations which make the history and capability of Canclini 1925 unique, as standard bearer for everlasting style.

All this results from an authentic family tradition which, for three generations, has been the driving force of the company, shaping each collection. This passion is at the service of tireless search in terms of style and technology which underlies the whole Canclini 1925 innovative approach. The goal is to offer, through its fabrics, an inimitable experience, “creating wellbeing” and emotion through touch alone, respecting the environment and humans.

Founded in 1925, Canclini has always been a company able to combine extraordinary creativity and product care, established as a silk factory in the Como region. This tradition was renewed in the 1960s with the shift to the cotton sector, aiming more and more at customer service, developing a partnership and trust relation. Working with Canclini 1925 means reaching into the tradition of a family which has always been passionate about its work, dynamic, creative and focused on continuous innovation.

These are distinctive and qualifying elements in the Canclini 1925 approach. An approach which, in line with the research and development pathway on which the company has always invested substantial resources, also involves considerable attention the topic of environmental and social accountability. This commitment is confirmed by numerous and prestigious certifications in the company portfolio, starting from the careful selection of raw materials to its social commitment. More specifically, Canclini 1925 has been awarded the GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standard), SUPIMA COTTON (the Pima “Gossypium Barbadense” cotton, classified as Extra-long Staple) certifications, following the Standard 100 by OECO-TEX®, BCI (Better Cotton Initiative) and GRS (Global Recycle Standard). A comprehensive range of tools which, combined with its in-house know-how and expertise capital, enhances the portfolio of Canclini 1925 branded innovations.

This accountability approach also encompasses the social area with the association “Un sorriso in più” (“One extra smile”). Founded and managed by the company, it is a non-profit organisation engaged in projects which include assistance in nursing homes to elderly persons without family ties, as well as in the support to children living difficult and disadvantaged family situations, focusing its activity on “human life quality”. The uniqueness generated by this meeting between tradition and innovation is the driving force behind corporate research, as well as the truly distinctive reason for its style and technology development. The high-performance looms and technologies used make the company strong and flexible enough for contemporary market requirements. The trademark passion of the Canclini family completes the picture within which the company operates, true to an approach which is at the same time artisan and high-tech, a point of reference in Italy and worldwide.

Thanks to its substantial manufacturing capacity, Canclini today is present on all of the most influential shirt markets worldwide, and – with its new Blue 1925 line - also in the denim world. In this way the company has succeeded in positioning itself among major players in textile manufacturing, authentically Italian because of its farsighted  business vision, care for details and production flexibility. It is the approach which – over the years - has allowed the group to take over important enterprises in the sector, for example Hausmann-Moos and Profilo Tessile, Maglificio Mida and Grandi & Rubinelli.
According to Simone Canclini, CEO of Canclini 1925: “What characterises the Canclini 1925 spirit is first and foremost genuine passion driven by our inspiring principles: quality, style and service. These elements have allowed us to become and remain a point of reference worldwide, to rediscover the everyday – basic and exciting – emotion of choosing a special shirt”.

• This new version of Modaris speeds up the time to market for collections

Paris – Lectra launches Modaris® V8R2, the latest version of its patternmaking, grading and prototyping 2D/3D solution. This new version of Modaris, the most widely used modeling solution by leading brands in fashion and apparel, offers greater speed, efficiency and precision in product development. With its powerful 3D simulation and collaboration tools, patternmakers are developing patterns faster and speeding up their decision-making procedures. By reducing or eliminating physical prototyping, product development is less expensive and the time to market is as close as possible to trend detection.

To preserve and strengthen its position as a market leader of product development software, Lectra, with this upgrade of Modaris, is giving particular focus to 3D virtual prototyping. Patternmakers can now share with their partners, 360-degree videos, accessible on any device. Designers in response are able to visualize, comment, and approve the style and fit using the new 3D Style module.

New advances have made it possible to reduce the number of physical prototypes by up to 50%. Modaris V8R2 improves the quality of the solution’s 3D simulations and expands its library with new assets (fabrics, 3D top-stitching effects, realistic scenes, lighting studios, Pantone® and Natural Color System®©,…). The solution is now compatible with Vizoo, a high-quality scanner that brings forth a heightened realism to the appearance of fabric swatches, and with other 3D solutions such as Maya, 3DS Max, Iray to make the digital renderings of the prototypes more true-to-life and accurate.

One of the innovative developments of Modaris V8R2 is a special dart feature to help patternmakers add dimension to their garments with ease. Thanks to this new feature, modifying a dart requires half the usual time, resulting in a 50-90% increase in overall patternmaking speed.

Another highlight of this solution, and important nod to the globalized workforce of the fashion industry, is its ability to manage different units of measurement. With Modaris V8R2, Lectra has made it possible for patternmakers and external suppliers the guarantee of size compliance, regardless of the measurement systems used in the countries where production occurs.

Modaris V8R2 is already gaining traction among its pilot customers. Italian womenswear company GGZ was the first to endorse Modaris V8R2. “GGZ is a fast-fashion company and time and quality are of the essence for us. Modaris’s new dart feature helps us save up to 50% of pattern modification time. Additionally, 3D prototyping helps us ensure that pattern volumes and proportions correspond to our designers’ expectations early on, dramatically reducing our lead times,” attests Majla Gottardo, Patternmaker, GGZ.

“We are entering the information age, and we are catering to patternmakers who are dealing with consumers with different tastes, of all body shapes and sizes. Our patternmakers have hundreds of collections to deliver and no time to spare for errors. What we are aiming to do is making their everyday work environment easier for them, by providing the tools to streamline the development process and reduce the number of reworks to achieve the right fit the first-time,” states Céline Choussy, Chief Marketing & Communications Officer, Lectra. “All this is possible with Modaris V8R2.”

• Lectra provides fashion companies with breakthrough solution that enables them to personalize at ready-to-wear production speed

Paris – Lectra launches its ‘Fashion On Demand’ offer, empowering industry players to uncover new business opportunities brought about by the strong demand for personalization in the fashion industry. Lectra is enabling its customers to produce on demand for the first time ever with an end-to-end offer that automates the entire personalization process from product development to final cutting stages. ‘Fashion On Demand by Lectra’, based on Industry 4.0 principles, is a fruition of four years of R&D with a hundred-strong team of experts, as part of Lectra’s strategic roadmap announced in 2017. There will be a progressive global rollout starting from January 2019.

The digital revolution has prompted consumers to demand personalized products and experiences nowadays. This is an advantageous business model for fashion companies, as it allows them to accurately match supply with demand, and solve a host of problems that regular business models usually face. By simply knowing ahead of time what and how much their consumers want, companies can produce in precise quantities and avoid overstocking and markdowns. In addition, as consumers pay upfront for their orders it improves cash flow for businesses. Fashion companies can use personalization as a way to outshine their competitors and earn consumer loyalty, by offering one-of-a-kind products that make their customers feel exclusive.

While on-demand production is an attractive business model that presents little financial risk, today, fashion companies are encountering huge barriers to entry for this market. Without the savoir-faire and appropriate technology, many companies have to rely on their standard supply-chain infrastructure that lacks the flexibility to create and produce these products. As a result, they have to develop independent workflows for each product, incurring additional production costs, prolonging lead times and even jeopardizing their existing production lines. By having longer delivery times, they face the risk of upsetting their loyal customers who have paid premium prices for their personalized products.

‘Fashion On Demand by Lectra’, is a game changer for the industry. Drawing from 45 years’ experience of working with international retailers, manufacturers and brands, Lectra developed this offer to break down these barriers and empower fashion companies to meet the specific needs of their digitally savvy clientele with best-in-class solutions. ‘Fashion On Demand by Lectra’, available in the form of two packages, one dedicated to made to measure, and the other to customization, is a turnkey solution that automates on-demand production right from order reception to production development stages and the cutting room. Companies can define the product customization criteria and range for each item depending on the package (such as altering product characteristics for customization and pattern adjustments for made to measure) and launch production processes right from the get-go, without interfering with their standard workflows.

Empowering customers through industrial intelligence 2/2

“Personalization, or rather, on-demand production, is going to be an industry-wide phenomenon. It is hence Lectra’s duty, as an Industry 4.0 pioneer, to think ahead of time, and spearhead this movement. Keeping our customers’ best interests in mind, we’ve worked with renowned personalization specialists from different countries to develop this solution. With ‘Fashion On Demand by Lectra’ we’re doing the unthinkable. For the first time in the fashion industry, there will be a comprehensive personalization solution that will be able to perform under the same market conditions as the ready-to-wear segment and produce the same, if not better, results,” says Daniel Harari, Chairman and Chief Executive Officer, Lectra.

This disruptive offer gives fashion companies a 360°-view of the entire personalization process, providing them with the visibility to streamline multiple production processes and manage complex individual demands from custom order to cut piece. Thanks to the supply-chain flexibility that companies gain with this innovative Lectra solution, they will be able to expand their product range and offer more variety, be it womenswear, menswear or childrenswear, and appeal to a broader audience and jump on trends without interrupting their existing production processes. They will not have to waste time on consolidating and communicating information from one production stage to another. This ensures smooth process flows and hence, quick delivery times that can compete with those of standard products.

• “Fashion Goes Digital” takes the Lead in Fashion Technology
• Customers get Industry 4.0-ready as Lectra unveiled latest product offerings and shared insights at annual fashion VIP event

Lectra, the technological partner for companies using fabrics and leather, put theory into practice at its recent fashion event by unveiling their latest 4.0 Cutting Room to more than 100 privileged industry professionals.

“Fashion Goes Digital” drew industry stakeholders and market experts from 20 countries, who gathered at Lectra’s International Advanced Technology Center (IATC) in Bordeaux-Cestas, France, to examine the real-life application of digitalization in fashion.

While the topic of digitalization served as a backdrop for the event, there was a recurring theme at the forefront: fashion companies need Industry 4.0 technology and support in order to be more precise in meeting the evolving needs of their digitally savvy consumers.
Nick Chiarelli, Client Partner of Foresight Factory, shed light on new business opportunities for fashion, Nora Kühner, founder of Nora Kühner Fashion Design Consulting, used her designer perspective to decode the digital future of product development, and Fabrizio Fantini, founder of Evo Pricing, showed participants how machine learning could help fashion companies predict consumer demand and avoid waste.

“While speaking about the future challenges and trends in fashion and luxury, the trend now is to use analytics to drive the entire production process,” highlighted Stephen Taylor, Principal Director of Kurt Salmon.

Waruna Tennakoon, General Manager of Group Cutting, Brandix, and Ajith Perera General Manager of Mathliya Plant, MAS Kreeda, also shared their Lectra customer experience. Based in Sri Lanka, both companies have established themselves as the country’s largest apparel exporters, with Brandix specializing in producing intimate and activewear, and MAS Kreeda in sportswear.

“Thanks to the digital revolution, consumers are now more specific in their demands. This will cause a shift in mass manufacturing where there will be smaller-volume orders coming in at a faster rate. As a result, manufacturing models have to be more agile in the immediate future,” explained Ajith Perera, “I am happy to see that Lectra is already spearheading this change by providing us with the necessary technology to help us meet market demand.”

There was no better time to put digitalization into context than during “Fashion Goes Digital”.
VIP guests got a sneak preview of the brand new, fully automated cutting room solution for fashion and apparel. Lectra’s Cutting Room 4.0 is an embodiment of Lectra’s commitment to empowering its customers with the best solutions to thrive in this new digital era. This avant-garde technology leverages industry 4.0 principles to provide greater agility, throughput, cost efficiency and in particular scalability in order to respond seamlessly to small batches orders and shorter lead times.

Jean-Yves Collet, CEO of Treize Roches Couture, a high-end French womenswear manufacturer, provided a testimonial on why his company chose to be one of the first to adopt this new solution. He explained how Lectra’s latest technology would help Treize Roches speed up their artisanal production process to bring products faster to market.

“When we discussed the possibility of a made-to-order production project, we could really foresee the benefits both in terms of quality and productivity. Industry 4.0 solutions do not yet exist in garment manufacturing. This is why we have decided to develop an Industry 4.0 cutting room. This will allow us, in the preparatory stages to automate the processes as much as possible and improve quality, productivity and training time.”

“We have unveiled our strategy last year where we have identified Industry 4.0 and digitalization as our key drivers. Our goal for this event is to show that we are, indeed, living and breathing Industry 4.0 and we do have what it takes to help our customers succeed in this era. Our latest cutting room 4.0 shows that we are not just talking about the future of fashion anymore, we are living in it right now as we speak,” concluded Céline Choussy Bedouet, Chief Marketing and Communications Officer, Lectra.

After a successful start to the trade show season for Spring/Summer 2019 at View in Munich this December, the company, which is set to exit insolvency proceedings in spring 2018, is presenting its new collection to the industry. The management team is banking on continuity.

As in previous years, Union Knopf Menswear will be present at all relevant trade shows in Europe: at the Textile Fashion Show in London from 10 to 11 January 2018 at The Business Design Centre, London; at Preview Fabrics & Accessories from 24 to 25 January at Showroom, Nacka strand, Stockholm; at Munich Fabric Start from 30 January to 01 February 2018 at MOC, Lilienthalallee 40 in Munich (Stand H1 A02) as well as at the end-of-season Première Vision from 13 to 15 February 2018 (Stand 4F03/4G04) at the Parc des Expositions in Paris.

Union Knopf Menswear expects to exit insolvency proceedings strengthened and clearly positioned and sincerely appreciates its customers and their continued loyalty through uncertain times.