From the Sector

Lectra supports the transformation of fashion, automotive and furniture companies by providing them with technological solutions that accelerate their transition to a more efficient and more sustainable Industry 4.0. In February, as part of the launch of its new roadmap, Lectra confirmed the importance of CSR in its strategy and presented its new priority measures for 2023-2025. By joining the UN Global Compact, Lectra demonstrates its commitment to reaching the Sustainable Development Goals of the United Nations.

Over the last few years, Lectra has stepped up its CSR initiatives. In 2011, the company implemented a CSR purchasing charter that covered 98% of its industrial purchases in 2022, excluding Gerber Technology (which was acquired in June 2021). In 2023, the new version of our CSR purchasing charter will be extended to Gerber suppliers, with the objective of enrolling 90% of all our industrial suppliers by 2025. Lectra also favors local procurement and production, as demonstrated by the recent inauguration of its manufacturing facility in Tolland, United States.

Another example: knowing that textiles generate 90% of the CO₂ emissions produced during the total lifecycle of a cutting room, Lectra strives to offer its customers solutions that optimize the use of materials. Lectra's equipment makes it possible to achieve material saving of 5 to 10%. In addition, to better inform consumers about product authenticity and provenant, the company has also expanded its software offer to material traceability, as show by the recent majority acquisition of TextileGenesis’ capital. Lectra is committed to systematically using eco-design principles by 2025 for its new equipment platforms in order to reduce its environmental footprint.

For 2023-2025, Lectra has decided to focus on 5 key areas through 12 measures:

1. MEETING THE HIGHEST ETHICAL STANDARDS
   - Uncompromising business ethics
   - Extension of our CSR purchasing policy
2. DESIGNING ECO-RESPONSIBLE OFFERS
   - Developing eco-designed products and services
   - Supplying products and services that help reduce our customers’ impact on the environment
   - Developing safe, accessible and easy-to-use solutions
3. FOSTERING AN INCLUSIVE, DIVERSE AND STIMULATING WORKING CULTURE
   - Zero tolerance for discrimination and harassment and equal opportunities for everyone
   - A working environment conducive to employee engagement
   - Balance between work and private life
   - Sustainable development of talents, team expertise and professional careers
   - Employees’ health and safety
4. REDUCING THE ENVIRONMENTAL FOOTPRINT OF OUR ACTIVITIES
   - Reducing the environmental impact of our company's activities
5. SUPPORTING FUTURE GENERATIONS
   - Supporting the development of professional skills and the employability of future generations

The theme for the 13th edition of RISE® (Research, Innovation & Science for Engineered Fabrics) is “A New Era in Manufacturing for Sustainability.” Technology scouts, product managers, senior scientists, development engineers, and business developers will convene September 26-27 at North Carolina State University and The Nonwovens Institute in Raleigh, NC to discover the latest nonwoven innovations.

The RISE conference program features industry leaders from these companies: American Truetzschler, Berry Global, Dilo Incorporated, Evonik Corporation, Indorama Ventures USA, MANN+HUMMEL, the National Renewable Energy Laboratory, NatureWorks, The Nonwovens Institute, Owens Corning, PCI Wood Mackenzie, PolyQuest, Reifenhäuser REICOFIL GmbH, and Simplifyber. These industry experts will discuss the future of nonwoven manufacturing, advances in filter media, rPolymer developments, and sustainable applications.

Innovations that advance the nonwovens industry will be recognized with the 2023 RISE® Innovation Award. Three finalists will present their innovative products or technologies to RISE participants, Tuesday, September 26th. The 2022 award winner was DiaperRecycle, cat litter made from recycled diapers.

RISE participants have the option of touring The Nonwovens Institute’s $65 million-plus, 60,000 square-foot facilities featuring state-of-the-art equipment, pilot lines, and analytical laboratories, as well as attending an evening reception at the Lonnie Pool Golf Course Clubhouse. During the evening reception, graduate students and faculty from North Carolina State University will feature their research and technical advances with poster presentations. The tour and reception will take place Tuesday, September 26th and the tour is limited to 40 attendees.

The Sorting for Circularity USA consortium project welcomes new partners and expands its North American geographical scope. Fashion for Good is pleased to announce the addition of lululemon as an external brand partner, joining the existing seven brand partners. They also welcome their new implementation partners Helpsy, United Southern Waste Material, Goodwill Industries International Inc., and its members Goodwill of Colorado, Goodwill Industries-Suncoast, Inc., Goodwill of the Finger Lakes, and Goodwill of San Francisco Bay. Additionally, Fashion for Good is pleased to recognise adidas as the project's lead sponsor, facilitating the complete realisation of the project scope.

Fashion for Good, together with Resource Recycling Systems, launched the Sorting for Circularity USA consortium project in January 2023. The project will conduct an extensive consumer survey to map the journey of a garment from closet to end of use, and present a comprehensive snapshot of textile waste composition generated in the United States. The insights gained from this 18-month project will help to scale collection, sorting, and recycling innovations and inform decisions on necessary investments and actions.

Within the first 6 months, the project has expanded to cover 6 key states: California, Texas, Florida, New York, New Jersey and Colorado. Additional implementation partners have also signed on to support the fibre composition data analysis: Secondary Materials and Recycled Textiles (SMART) Association, Helpsy, United Southern Waste Material, and Goodwill Industries International Inc., with its members Goodwill of Colorado, Goodwill Industries-Suncoast, Inc., Goodwill of the Finger Lakes, and Goodwill of San Francisco Bay. Resource Recycling Systems will drive the dissemination and analysis of the consumer survey together with New York State Center for Sustainable Materials Management and Syracuse University Center for Sustainable Community Solutions, and execute the textile composition analysis using Matoha’s near infrared devices with advisory support from Circle Economy.

Demonstrating the importance of pre-competitive collaboration in tackling the industry’s biggest challenges, lululemon joins Eastman, H&M and Nordstrom as key project partners, together with Fashion for Good corporate partners adidas, Inditex, Levi Strauss & Co., and Target. Adidas' lead sponsorship ensures a deeper analysis of USA textile waste infrastructure and the identification of valuable opportunities for advancement.

In the USA, textile waste is the fastest-growing segment of the country's waste stream, with 85% of discarded textiles ending up in landfills*. Understanding the composition of material, volume and location of used textiles is crucial for capturing them and sorting them for the best and highest quality end use. Moreover, the range of national and regional geographies within the Sorting for Circularity project series enables for nuanced cross-country comparisons - revealing differences in the textile waste generated and infrastructure required.

Sorting for Circularity, a framework co-developed by Fashion for Good and Circle Economy, aims to (re)capture textile waste by unlocking the feedstock potential for recycling, expedite the implementation of game changing automated sorting technologies such as near-infrared spectroscopy and advanced textile-to-textile recycling, and drive circularity within the fashion value chain. The project builds on the success of Sorting for Circularity Europe and India, which revealed insights on material composition, volume, and location of used textiles and provided a solid foundation to accelerate textile recycling in those respective geographical locations.

*United States Environmental Protection Agency (2019). National Overview: Facts and Figures on Materials, Wastes and Recycling.

PrimaLoft Inc., a leader in advanced material technology, announced the reorganization of its European sales management team. Effective June 1st, Leonardo Loro has promoted to the position of Sales Leader, Europe. Additionally, the company welcomes Mario Vlietinck as the new Territory Manager for France, Benelux & Denmark.

To further streamline operations and maximize opportunities, PrimaLoft is also implementing a territory reorganization to better align existing sales talent with market opportunities. These moves will strengthen the company’s sales strategy in the region.

Leonardo Loro will lead the European sales team and report directly to Chris Humphris, SVP, Global Sales. "With over a decade of experience as the sales and marketing manager for the southern European market, including France, Italy, Spain, and Portugal, Leonardo has demonstrated exceptional skills in building customer relationships and identifying new business opportunities. His invaluable contributions to our sales efforts make him the ideal candidate to lead and elevate our business in Europe", said Humphris. In his new leadership role, Loro will continue to manage brands in Italy and Spain, as well as military sales efforts in Europe.

Mario Vlietinck joins the PrimaLoft team and will be responsible for managing and developing business relationships with PrimaLoft brand partners in France, Benelux & Denmark. Vlietinck brings a wealth of knowledge in sales and the outdoor industry, previously serving as the head of Apparel & Footwear for Katoen Natie, as well as working for brands such as Reebok, Merrell, and Vannese. "Mario’s background in product development, business development, and international sales positions him as a great asset to our company goals,” said Humphris. Vlietinck will report to Leonardo Loro.

Sales Territory Reorganization
Wim Neels, VP of business development for fashion and lifestyle, will be responsible for all Fashion & Lifestyle brands across Europe, with the exception of Italy & Spain, which remain the responsibility of Leonardo Loro.

Bartosz Lassak will expand his territory responsibility to include outdoor performance brands in the United Kingdom, in addition to Eastern Europe and Turkey. He will also handle any opportunities from North Africa, as well as any brands located outside of other European coverage.

Valerie Raths Goesel will oversee the management of all outdoor performance brands in the Germany, Austria, and Switzerland region.

Mats Jengard will remain the territory manager for Scandinavia (Norway, Sweden, Finland & Iceland), focusing outdoor performance brands.

With combined regional, global, and industry specific expertise, the Vietnam International Trade Fair for Apparel, Textiles and Textile Technologies (VIATT) will make its debut from 28 February – 1 March 2024. Following the signing of a memorandum of understanding (MOU) in late March, Messe Frankfurt (HK) Ltd and the Vietnam Trade Promotion Agency (VIETRADE) announced the new international fair for the entire textile value chain. The three-day platform will be staged at the Saigon Exhibition and Convention Center (SECC), Ho Chi Minh City.

Commenting on the new event, Ms Wendy Wen, Managing Director of Messe Frankfurt (HK) Ltd, said: “With Intertextile Apparel in Shanghai a prime example, our Texpertise Network provides the ideal global framework from which to launch this diverse, comprehensive platform for the integrated textile supply chain. VIATT itself will capture the essence of Texpertise in one platform – a diverse, one-stop sourcing event for buyers across all categories, from garments, fabrics, yarns and fibres, to textile machinery, technical textiles and nonwovens, and everything in between.”

Discussing the event’s potential, Mr Le Hoang Tai, Deputy Director General of the Vietnam Trade Promotion Agency (VIETRADE), said: “Vietnam is one of the world’s leading textile producers and exporters, and going from strength to strength as one of Southeast Asia’s manufacturing hubs. Our establishment has many years of experience organising trade fairs throughout Vietnam, and together with Messe Frankfurt we are excited to help international fairgoers unlock the potential of the country’s fast-growing textile market. In addition, Ho Chi Minh City’s accessibility, and Vietnam’s proximity to other leading textile-producing nations such as Bangladesh, Cambodia, China and India, make it the logical venue to host an event of this nature.”

Many international textile manufacturers have been expanding operations into Vietnam, augmenting an already strong domestic industry. According to the Vietnam Textile and Apparel Association (VITAS), the country’s textile and garment industry achieved staggering annual growth of 20 – 26% from 2018 – 2022. Participation in international trade agreements such as the Regional Comprehensive Economic Partnership (RCEP), the Comprehensive and Progressive Agreement for Trans-Pacific Partnership (CPTPP), the EU–Vietnam Free Trade Agreement (EVFTA), and the Indo-Pacific Economic Framework for Prosperity (IPEF)[2], bodes well for future growth.

As one of the world’s biggest importers of textile machinery, and a consistent importer of fabrics, yarns and fibres, garment production is the cornerstone of Vietnam’s industry. The country utilises cotton and functional materials to produce casualwear, childrenswear, swimwear, workwear, and much more, with sportswear an especially fast-growing category, and high-utility garments expected to achieve high exports.

By linking textile players from across Asia, Europe and beyond with this market, VIATT 2024 is willing to play an important part in shaping the future of Vietnam’s industry. Next year’s fair will host an extensive mix of international and domestic exhibitors covering multiple textile sub-sectors, including garments, apparel fabrics and accessories, yarns and fibres, digital printing, home textiles, technical textiles and nonwovens, textile processing, textile machinery, and more.

Exhibitors and buyers can utilise the fair’s global business matchmaking service, where connections are made based on the specific needs of each party. In addition to the fair’s main function as an international trading platform, its fringe programme will facilitate participants’ networking with industry leaders and offer diverse market insights via various seminars, forums, and panel discussions.

The Vietnam International Trade Fair for Apparel, Textiles and Textile Technologies (VIATT) is organised by Messe Frankfurt (HK) Ltd and the Vietnam Trade Promotion Agency (VIETRADE). Covering the entire textile industry value chain, the inaugural edition will be held from 28 February – 1 March 2024 at the Saigon Exhibition and Convention Center (SECC), Ho Chi Minh City.

On June 1, EREMA hosted the EREMA Discovery Day focusing on the post consumer segment from a European perspective. Live demonstrations showcased the latest machine innovations for PET and polyolefin recycling.

The invitation was accepted by around 400 customers and partners, mainly from Europe, to find out about the wide range of recycling technologies for PO and PET plastic waste. The technology that was presented and explained by EREMA experts and guest speakers during lectures in the morning, could then be seen live in-action in the afternoon when the recycling machines were demonstrated in operation. A total of six innovative recycling technologies were on display: INTAREMA® TVEplus® DuaFil® Compact, INTAREMA® TVEplus® RegrindPro® + ReFresher, the COREMA® cascade extrusion system, a VACUREMA® Inline Sheet line equipped with new EcoGentle technology, the new INTAREMA® FibrePro:IV machine, and the PCU-
TwinScrew. These allowed visitors to witness their performance and the high quality of recycled pellets that they produce.

"This wide range of technologies is necessary because the recycling process each of our customers choose depends on the type of plastic, the level of contamination of the input material, and which product will be made using the recycled pellets. Following the expansion of our Ansfelden site and with the new site nearby in St. Marien, we can now demonstrate all these processes, carry out test runs with customers' material and focus on development work independently of our Customer Centre," says EREMA's Managing Director Markus Huber-Lindinger.

EREMA is driving forward research and development work in the company's new R&D Centre. Two halls with a total area of 1,550 square metres and a new office building offering space for 50 workplaces has been built. Here, the company bundles cross-departmental test machines and laboratory facilities for post consumer and inhouse recycling applications. R&D is decentralised at EREMA. Employees from different departments handle process engineering challenges, innovations in mechanical engineering and automation technology - all with the aim of meeting customer requirements and achieving the highest possible quality of recycled pellets.  

On the evening before Discovery Day, EREMA celebrated its 40th anniversary together with customers and partners. A review covered the company's history - from the first workshop in a garage in 1983, to its position today as a innovation pioneer and one of the market leaders.

With four months until the technical textiles and nonwovens show opens its doors, floor space booked by international suppliers is already more than double the area of the previous edition, which attracted 366 exhibitors from eight countries and regions. Taking place from 19 – 21 September 2023 at the Shanghai New International Expo Centre, this year’s fair will see the European Zone return to the fairground. The high-traffic zone is set to welcome a number of new and returning exhibitors eager to showcase their products to a business-hungry domestic market.

Speaking at the fair’s previous edition in 2021, Mr Roberto Galante, Plant Manager of FMMG Technical Textiles (Suzhou) Co Ltd, said: “The Chinese market is a big opportunity for everybody, because every day the market is demanding more. The potential here is incredible, and there is more demand for overseas brands. These brands are known for their very high quality, and while China’s industry has developed very well in the past few years, it still needs support from overseas brands with high quality products. This fair is good for us, and we exhibit here every year.”

Multiple domestic and international exhibitors have confirmed their participation at Cinte Techtextil China 2023, with the European Zone playing host to FMMG and other key industry players, such as:

• Bekaert, Belgium
• Fil Man Made Group, Italy
• SANITIZED, Switzerland
• SCANTECH, France

Outside the European Zone, additional international suppliers will showcase their diverse product applications at the fairground, with categories including Coating & Bondtec (Stahl); Fibre & Yarn (Barnet); Nonwovens Equipment (Dilo); Technology & Machinery (Picanol); and Testing Equipment & Certification (TESTEX). Other European exhibitors in these categories include Autefa Solutions, Reifenhauser Heinsberg, Reifenhauser Reicofil, and SICAM.

Chinese suppliers set to complement international contingent
A comprehensive range of domestic exhibitors are eager to meet new buyers and renew old business connections at this year’s fair, including:

• Shanghai Shenda Kebao New Materials
• SIJIA New Material (Shanghai)
• Zhejiang Jinda New Materials
• Zhejiang Hailide New Material

The fair’s product categories cover 12 application areas, which comprehensively span a full range of potential uses in modern technical textiles and nonwovens. These categories also cover the entire industry, from upstream technology and raw materials providers to finished fabrics, chemicals and other solutions. This scope of product groups and application areas ensures that the fair is an effective business platform for the entire industry.

wet-green GmbH announced today that it has earned the U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) Certified Biobased Product Label for wet-green® OBE 1 tanning agent for Olivenleder®.

wet-green® OBE 1 is made of 100% biobased raw materials coming from by-products of olive growing, covered by a global patent. wet-green® OBE 1 is applied as a pre-tanning agent and replaces standard tanning technologies e.g. Chromium, Glutaraldehyde, Zeolites etc., is non-corrosive, metal-free, free of synthetic reactive tanning chemicals, formaldehyde-free, glutaraldehyde-free, bisphenol-free, syntan free, viscous, pumpable and pleasant smelling. wet-green® OBE 1 is the next generation vegetable tanning agent suitable for a wide range of leather articles and applied since many years in areas e.g. automotive, upholstery, garments, shoes and accessories.

The wet-green® tanning agent for Olivenleder® can now display a USDA label that highlights its percentage of biobased content. Third-party verification for a product's biobased content is administered through the USDA BioPreferred® Program, which strives to increase the development, purchase, and use of biobased
products.

Biobased products help address climate change by offering renewable alternatives to petroleum-based products; sequester carbon dioxide, lowering the concentration of greenhouse gasses in the atmosphere that contribute to climate change; create and expand markets; are generally safer for people and the environment than their petroleum-based counterparts; and represent incredible technological advances and innovations.

• Reactive dyes for water and energy saving dye processes with significantly shortened process time

BEZAKTIV ONE covers a broad color spectrum with tinctorial very strong dyes. This enables a cost-efficient dye process with significantly less dye and salt. The excellent wash-off behavior allows short rinse cycles at lower temperatures and therefore offers further ecological and economic advantages. The dyes are particularly suitable for durable textiles due to their good multiple wash fastness.

Cellulosic fibers are often dyed with reactive dyes, as these are commercially available in a wide range of colors that result in dyeings with high wash fastness. However, reactive dyeings require a lot of water due to the necessary rinsing processes. Due to increased ecological requirements, the development of energy and water saving processes is not just a trend, but rather a core prerequisite for new dyes.

A minimal number of rinsing baths and generally lower temperatures for dye exhaust, rinsing and soaping contribute to an overall efficient water and energy saving dyeing processes.

BEZAKTIV ONE dyes can be dyed, rinsed and soaped between 40 and 60 °C. Therefore, the BEZAKTIV ONE exhaust dyeing process is significantly shorter compared to conventional reactive dyeing processes, where temperatures between 60 and 98 °C are required. This advantage means savings in process time and higher productivity for the textile dyer.

The advantages become particularly clear when dyeing medium to dark shades with the BEZAKTIV ONE process. Due to the high fixation level in combination with good color build-up dark shades can be matched with lower dye concentrations of BEZAKTIV ONE than with conventional bifunctional reactive dyes. The addition of the auxiliary COTOBLANC SEL in the second soap bath has an additional positive effect, so that a washing process with low water and energy consumption generates excellent wet fastness properties on the textile.

Since April 2023, the testing service provider Hohenstein has been testing and certifying in two new areas in the field of protective clothing: protective suits and gloves against chemicals and infectious agents. These are covered by Regulation (EU) 2016/425 and are therefore personal protective equipment (PPE).

Protective clothing against infectious agents is used in many types of work: for example, work at sewage plants, waste disposal, animal care, disposal of hazardous waste from hospitals, etc. Workers are exposed to unknown infectious agents (microorganisms, parasites). The protective clothing should protect wearers from the mediums in which the microorganisms are contained, such as liquids, aerosols or solid dust particles.

Hohenstein tests and certifies the following types:

• EN 14605: Protective clothing against liquid chemicals: Liquid-tight (type 3) or spray-tight (type 4) as well as partial protection types PB[3] and PB[4]
• EN 13982-1: Protective clothing against airborne solid particulates: Type 5
• EN 13034: Protective clothing against liquid chemicals: Type 6 and PB[6]