From the Sector

Buyers looking for premium wool fabrics will be spoilt for choice at next month’s Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Fabrics. The epicentre for those with this product on their sourcing checklist is the Premium Wool Zone, with mills from the UK, Italy, France, Peru and elsewhere located here, while the Italy Pavilion also includes a number of quality wool suppliers. Rounding out the sourcing options, and adding further quality and price variety, are the 180-plus domestic wool suppliers in hall 6.1.

Some of the notable overseas brands participating this edition include Abraham Moon & Sons, Aris Industrial, Dechamps, Dormeuil, Dugdale Bros & Co, Ferla, Fratelli Piacenza, Holland & Sherry, Huddersfield Fine Worsteds, Lanificio F.lli Cerruti DAL 1881 and Scabal. The Spring Edition of the industry’s most comprehensive sourcing platform for the spring / summer season, Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Fabrics, will feature some 3,300 exhibitors from around 20 countries covering all apparel fabrics and accessories product groups.

Growing affluence in China drives demand for premium wool fabrics

While a true global marketplace for the industry’s order writers with buyers from around 100 countries expected at Intertextile Shanghai next month, much of the demand for high-end wool at the fair comes from Chinese buyers thanks to growing affluence in the country. This is evidenced by the fact that Australian wool prices are at record highs this season, with China accounting for over 70% of Australian wool exports[1]. What’s more, whereas 15 to 20 years ago most wool imported by China was re-exported, nowadays around 60% is used to produce garments for the domestic market.

Intertextile’s number one position in China ensures that high-end domestic buyers are in abundance. “The buyer professionalism here is surprisingly high,” Mr Bob McAuley, Huddersfield Fine Worsteds’ President, explained last October. “We’re looking specifically for tailors and menswear specialty stores, and these type of buyers are definitely present.” Speaking about domestic market trends, he continued: “Retailers are not able to put all fashion in stores, so the made-tomeasure market is growing, especially in China. I’m surprised each edition how many new high-end Chinese brands we meet at this fair. There’s more menswear specialty stores opening here, whereas in the US, for example, the move is more towards going direct-to-consumer and online.”

Innovation and new-season styles added to heritage brands’ collections  

Precious metals such as gold and silver are known to have been worked into garments as long as 3,000 years ago, when they were hammered into extremely thin sheets then cut into ribbons. Modern technology has made this process much more straightforward, as well as opening up new opportunities. One of these is combining wool and silver, which Holland & Sherry will exhibit at Intertextile Shanghai. Their Argento collection of Super 200's wool fabrics applies a state of the art silver ion technology finish to superfine 13.5µ merino wool. This combination provides effective antibacterial protection, counteracting bacterial odour formation and keeping the fabrics hygienic and fresh. And because the conductive properties of silver prevent the build-up of static charge, the fabrics also benefit from anti-static properties.

While most collections in the Premium Wool Zone emphasise the brands’ heritage and tradition, like Holland & Sherry, some will be introducing new or updated collections. Dugdale Bros & Co refreshed its Royal Classic superfine Australian merino wool collection last year for the first time since 1987, adding around 30 patterns drawn directly from its original archive. Abraham Moon & Sons will showcase new fabrics at the fair for spring / summer ‘19 designed by Creative Director Martin Aveyard, which take in categories of classic, casual and contemporary, with a unique use of worsted, linen and cashmere combinations.

In addition to Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Fabrics, four other textile fairs also take place at the National Exhibition and Convention Center: Yarn Expo Spring, Intertextile Shanghai Home Textiles – Spring Edition, fashion garment fair CHIC and knitting fair PH Value.

Loop Linen has earned the Hygienically Clean Food Service designation, reflecting their commitment to best management practices (BMPs) in laundering as verified by on-site inspection and their capability to produce hygienically clean textiles as quantified by ongoing microbial testing. Loop Linen is a fourth-generation family-owned linen and uniform service company located in New Orleans suburb of Westwego.

The certification confirms the laundry’s dedication to compliance and processing linens and garments using BMPs as described in its quality assurance documentation, the focal point for Hygienically Clean inspectors’ evaluation of critical control points (CCPs) that minimize risk. The independent, third-party inspection must confirm essential evidence that:
•             Employees are properly trained and protected
•             Managers understand legal requirements
•             OSHA-compliant
•             Physical plant operates effectively

In addition, Loop Linen’s facility passed three rounds of outcome-based microbial testing, indicating that their processes are producing Hygienically Clean garments and linens and diminished presence of harmful bacteria. To maintain their certification, laundry plants must pass quarterly testing to ensure that as laundry conditions change, such as water quality, textile fabric composition and wash chemistry, laundered product quality is consistently maintained.

This process eliminates subjectivity by focusing on outcomes and results that verify textiles cleaned in these facilities meet appropriate hygienically clean standards and BMPs for full- and limited-service restaurants and other food service operations.

Hazard Analysis and Critical Control Points (HACCP) practices are examined in the Hygienically Clean Food Safety inspection process, evaluating the plant’s techniques for:
•             Conducting hazard analysis
•             Determining CCPs, monitoring their control, correcting them if not under control
•             Validating and verifying HACCP system effectiveness
•             Documenting and record-keeping to show ongoing conformance

Inspections also evaluate practices relevant to handling and processing textile products used in food manufacturing/processing establishments for adherence to U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) and Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC) directives. Introduced in January 2016, Hygienically Clean Food Service brought to linen and uniform service laundering in North America the international cleanliness standards used worldwide by the Certification Association for Professional Textile Services and the European Committee for Standardization.

“Congratulations to Loop Linen on their certification,” said Joseph Ricci, TRSA president and CEO. “This achievement proves their dedication to building their customers’ confidence that their laundry takes every step possible to prevent human illness.”

At Milano Unica, as key inspiring article, ILUNA presented an exclusive and elegant lace long dress, created in collaboration with Valery, starting from an all over textronic ultralight lace with a complex organic design completely made of recycled materials, using ROICA™ Eco-Smart family, a world-first range of responsible made premium stretch yarns, demonstrating, once more, how the two leading innovators continue their close partnership to present the most “advanced” and responsible solutions to the market today.

Nevertheless, for ILUNA smart innovation is not just a project even, at its space at Milano Unica visitors will had the opportunity to discover the new collection and also to experience and touch the latest boundaries of lace smart innovations. This season novelties include:

1. Green Label collection, the Iluna dedicated range featuring a new responsible approach in respect of the planet and people, able to deliver innovation, beauty and quality, at 360°. This season, in addition to the all over, jacquard, double jacquard and mesh offer, the line is also featuring  new stretch Galloon laces fully made with GRS certified recycled  materials, including the stretch thanks to the introduction of the unique ROICA™ sustainable yarn part of the ROICA™ Eco-Smart family. 
2. ILUNA is also proud to introduce a worldwide première: Eco- Smart family made of sustainable yarns allover laces made with NAIA cellulosic fiber by Eastmann combined with ROICA™ premium stretch sustainable yarn   realized on warp knitting jacquard looms. A unique innovation, with an interesting look & feel combined with a special softness!  
3. ILUNA has strategically included in all their stretch laces only ROICA™ Eco-Smart family of sustainable yarns since some time. The company is pleased to introduce the latest version of this yarns that are able to deliver 3 functions in one:  premium stretch, sustainability combined with the ROICA™ Colour Perfect family function offering excellent flawless and world unique colour dimensions, homogeneity.
4. For the salon, another première:  in cooperation with ROICA™ and Cupro by Asahi Kasei, Iluna is pleased to introduce ‘Smart Bucket Bag’ as a  special  limited edition gift. In origin, this was a roomy bag shaped like a bucket taller than it is wide with a rounded bottom. It first came to fashion in the 1900's, from a pouch with a string and a hardened bottom. Federica Annovazzi idea started from the traditional shape, but it went way beyond and imade it contemporary by smart materials and manufacturing. A beautifully crafted ‘double face recipe’ made  combining a luxurious Cupro fabric by Infinity with an Iluna stretch Double face Smart Bucket bag lace designed and produced with ROICA™ Eco-Smart family of sustainable yarns. The bag is manufactured exclusively by Made in Carcere a cooperative of women in rehabilitation, so creating a useful social exchange as well as a responsible and smart one. The Made in Carcere brand was founded in 2007, thanks to Luciana Delle Donne, founder of Officina Creativa, a non-profit social cooperative.
5. ILUNA can also boast its new STeP (Sustainable Textile Production) certification by Oeko-Tex, a certification that clarifies and communicates the company’s sustainable production commitment. In addition to this, all products are Oeko-Tex 100 certified.

ILUNA’s newest digital programs:

• ILUNA has created the new e-shop offering its exclusive materials to smaller companies looking for added values as: creativity, innovation, made in Italy and responsibility. 
• The whole collection is also visible online at its web site, previous registration, and orders can be done directly online always aiming to customers care.

Today ILUNA represents the largest European lace producer, and thanks to its journey toward the most contemporary way to innovate that includes responsibility, has also become a reference point in the international market for a lace offer that is beautiful, innovative and responsible at the same time. An alchemy of design and sustainable innovation, the only eco-fashion line that includes lace and stockings, capable of combining ethics and high quality standards with a fashion image of bright and deep colors. 

DyStar and RotaSpray successfully developed their indigo spray dyeing procedure for production on a bulk level which allows denim producers to significantly reduce their environmental impact.

The solution was first introduced at ITMA Milan in 2015. Since then, DyStar and RotaSpray have been working together to develop it further and make it available for bulk production in important Denim markets like Turkey, India and Pakistan. With the recent breakthrough, they are now announcing a salt-less dyeing solution for the denim industry. This new technology is awarded important ECO certificates and offers high flexibility for dyeing small lot sizes, reduced water usage and effluent discharge lower impact on yarn in the dyeing process and simplified recipe changes.

The new Spray dyeing technology combines DyStar Indigo Vat 40% Solution, Sera® Con C-RDA (a unique organic reducing agent) and the effective optimization of spraying parameters of the EPO patented RotoDyer® and the RotoCoater® spraying technology. Although rotary atomizers have been established for several decades in the textile industry they were mainly used for rewetting textiles with moisture. But recent cost pressure and a global demand for more sustainable solutions were motivators for the R&D of the industry and led to the recent technology leap.

On sheet dyeing ranges (slasher), with process and layout modifications, coatings including DyStar Indigo Coat, Cassulfon®, Remazol®/Levafix® and Imperon® dyes can be applied by spray dyeing as well. The spray application of fixing agents and oxidation chemicals can be integrated into sheet dyeing (slasher) as well as rope dyeing machines.

At the upcoming ISPO exhibition, SITIP are pleased to introduce BEHOT, a SITIP Heat Generating Technology for fabrics that has been licensed from the unique ROICA™ StretchEnergy™ System by Asahi Kasei and is already adopted by Santini that is offering Premium cycle wear Made in Italy since 1965.

SITIP is a leading Italian textile company specialized in high-tech and function-rich innovations for sport, technical underwear, shapewear, beachwear, footwear components, protective helmets, and in particular Velcro-receptive fabrics for mechanical fastening systems and a number of innovative technical fabrics for other industrial end-uses, all made through key manufacture technologies that include weft & warp knit fabric innovations.

Further, SITIP has more recently launched 16 unique trade brands, each one specialized in highly advanced innovation solutions designed to fit both market and the discerning needs of the contemporary consumer.

Santini is offering to the market a multi-panel thermal bib tight for the coldest winter training. Made with the special BeHot fabric by Sitip, constructed with the ROICA™ StretchEnergy™ active performance material, it not only insulates, but generates up to 2 degrees of heat as you workout as certified by CeRism, Outdoor Sport Research Centre at Verona University. Complete comfort and protection thanks to the Acquazero by Sitip treatment that ensures you stay dry even in the most challenging conditions.

The design is completed with breathable mesh braces for added comfort and a reflective pixel detail on the leg to improve visibility in low light conditions. BeHOT represents a special combination of a highly refined type of knitted construction combined with this unique ROICA™ Premium Stretch yarn function, and has been especially developed for this new high-function concept.

At the Munich Fabric Start in Munich, TINTEX proudly announced its complete switch from the use of conventional cotton and the concomitant launch of a new fabric range that is the highest expression of the new generation of cotton: Naturally Advanced Cotton by TINTEX.

This new range is able to offer an advanced smart choice of 4 different premium and responsible advanced cotton solutions such as BCI Cotton, ECOTEC® by Marchi & Fildi, GOTS certified organic cotton and Supima. These new fabrics maintain and upgrade the transparent, hi-tech and sustainable organics that are at the heart of the TINTEX DNA. They represent better, smarter ecomaterials with new levels of performance and hi-tech smarts, thanks to a first class expertise in specialist dyeing and finishing techniques, coatings and applications that use the latest research, equipment and processes to deliver it. 

This new launch is confirming once more the commitment of TINTEX to its ‘Naturally Advanced’ position meaning “advancing beautiful, organic and natural materials to the next level combined with unique, hybrid ‘nature-tech’ smarts, with added value and creativity, thanks to dedicated investments that serve and secure our customer’s demands both now and in the seasons to come” says CEO Mario Jorge Silva.

The “Naturally Advanced Cotton” on Collection by TINTEX:

BCI cotton: The Better Cotton Initiative has specific aims:

• Reduce the environmental impact of cotton production
• Improve livelihoods and economic development in cotton producing areas
• Improve commitment to and flow of Better Cotton throughout supply chain.

ECOTEC® by Marchi & Fildi: a range of full-colour yarns, a smarter cotton made from pre-consumer clippings that save up to 77,9% water during manufacture. This season TINTEX is also introducing a new, finer ECOTEC® yarn called Phoenix, also GRS certified, being made from 50% ECOTEC® cotton and 50% recycled polyester. Here wellbeing credentials are guaranteed with Tessile e Salute* certification. 

GOTS Organic Cotton: The Global Organic Textile Standard GOTS is the most important standard for sustainable production of garments and natural fiber textile products from organic farming such as organic cotton or organic wool. GOTS criteria measures environmental, technical quality, toxicity and social impacts. GOTS is backed by independent certification for the entire supply chain.

Supima Cotton: Luxury, quality and craftsmanship are the benchmarks of American-grown, extra-long staple cotton. TINTEX offers 100% Supima precious fabrics and blends with tencel.

These special 4 cotton actors are made even more “advanced” by unique smart finishing as Plummy and Naturally Clean, for clean surfaces, bright colours, outstanding touch always with a very careful eye at the responsible values.  

At this year's Heimtextil, which took place from 9-12 January in Frankfurt, Trevira impressed visitors with a brand new fair concept. The company worked together with sixteen of its biggest customers to create a joint booth covering 1,305 square metres of Hall 4.2, drawing a large crowd.

Head of Marketing, Anke Vollenbröker, explained, "Thanks to our new approach and booth concept, we were able to present our brand Trevira CS in an open and welcoming manner plus highlight the good relationship we have with our customers."

Trevira CEO Klaus Holz added, "We are really pleased with the very positive feedback we have had from all sides in response to our grand Trevira CS joint booth. We would like to thank everyone who has contributed to the booth's success. The extremely positive market reaction has reassured us that this is a concept we can build on in the future."

A Trevira exhibition formed the centrepiece of the joint booth, showcasing the winning fabrics from the 2018 Trevira CS Creativity Competition, which this year featured "Colour" as its major theme. At the heart of the display, visitors could find out more about Trevira with the help of twelve tablets providing information in a variety of formats, including a staff presentation and a flyer about the new Trevira Sinfineco® brand.

Encircling this core and thereby completing the joint booth concept, sixteen major customers grouped their individual stands around this centrepiece to display their own new Trevira CS collections for residential and contract usage. The customers joining Trevira to create the booth were Baumann Dekor Ges.m.b.H., Engelbert E. Stieger AG, FIDIVI Tessitura Vergnano S.p.A., Georg + Otto Friedrich, Jenny Fabrics AG, Johan van den Acker Textielfabriek B.V., Mattes & Ammann GmbH & Co. KG, Pugi R.G. S.R.L., Spandauer Velours GmbH & Co. KG, SR Webatex GmbH / Getzner Textil AG, Swisstulle AG, Tessitura Mario Ghioldi & C. srl, Torcitura Fibre Sintetiche S.p.A., Torcitura Lei Tsu S.r.l. / Ilcat S.p.A., Vlnap a.s. / Wagenfelder Spinning Group and Wintex S.r.l..

Another major section of the Trevira booth was dedicated to the world of acoustics. Increasingly, customers are (re)discovering textiles as a way to significantly improve the quality of room acoustics, and this part of the booth also attracted numerous visitors.

A special highlight at the joint booth were the Trevira CS sports shoes, worn by Trevira staff as a key element of the brand's trade fair outfit. The shoes are an Adidas Originals Special Edition of the iconic Stan Smith Silhouette, which Adidas manufactured in cooperation with Kvadrat.

In keeping with annual tradition, the new Trevira CS Gold and Silver Club members were announced during the Heimtextil fair. The new members were presented with their awards at a formal ceremony on Tuesday evening (9 January).

Sanitized®Odoractiv 10 with patented, dual-action technology

SANITIZED AG presents a new unique dimension to odor-management for functional polyester textiles. The newly developed wash-resistant Sanitized®Odoractiv 10 has a dual-action effect: on the one hand it prevents the bacteria from docking on the textile, and on the other, it adsorbs odors whilst the garment is being worn. The underlying technology that has been further developed was awarded the Swiss Technology Award. Goodbye permastink!

Manufacturers of functional polyester textiles from all over the world face the same challenge: freshly washed garments develop an unpleasant odor even after a short wearing period. The cause of this undesirable effect is not the human perspiration itself, but the bacteria that break down the perspiration. This process of decomposition generates the characteristic sweet, pungent smell. Once the bacteria, or the odor molecules, have penetrated into the surface of the polyester textile, they remain there permanently. Machine wash cycles and special detergents will never completely eliminate them. The bacterial colonization produces a biofilm on the polyester, which not only causes unpleasant odors, but also has a negative impact on the properties of the material.

Surface modulation with anti-adhesive properties
This is exactly where the new, dual-action technology from SANITZED AG comes into play: the surface of the textile is "coated" with Sanitized®Odoractiv 10 in the padding process. This creates a protective film on the surface of the textile. The bacteria use this anti-adhesive protective film as the basis for latching onto the garment. The bacteria can therefore be completely washed out in a normal wash cycle, consequently preventing any biofilm from forming. An anti-adhesion test method was developed in cooperation with EMPA to prove this Wash Effect.

The second advantage: Sanitized®Odoractiv 10 has a high adsorbing effect. Odors are "trapped" and removed during a normal wash cycle. The new product is the result of a technology that has been further developed and was awarded the Swiss Technology Award. The odor adsorption is identified using GC-MS.

As the Product Manager at SANITIZED AG, Urs Zihlmann, succinctly puts it: "Sanitized®Odoractiv 10 marks the end of permastink in polyester textiles." Sanitized®Odoractiv 10 can be combined with other Sanitized®products, in particular with products based on zinc pyrithione. The treatment does not influence the feel of the final treated textile.

Wash-resistant, sustainable and still "no nano"
The odor-reducing function is clearly still going strong even after 50 wash cycles. This is even the case if garments are washed at 30°C, either by hand or in the machine, meaning consumers save on water and energy, not to mention that the piece of clothing will look great for longer.

As with all its other products, SANITZED AG does not use any nano technology. The Hohenstein Institute has awarded the company the rating Skin Friendly, the bluesign®registration is underway. The product also bears the label Eco Passport by OEKO-TEX®.

"The unique, dual Odor Control Function of Sanitized®Odoractiv 10 enjoys a unique position in the market and it furthermore fulfills two market requirements: the prevention of permastink and the minimization of odor intensity during wear. Almost all manufacturers of functional polyester textiles are confronted with this problem," commented Urs Zihlmann. "The new technology creates tangible added value for consumers. This is a competitive differentiating
advantage for global marketing."

As with all other products, the service provided by SANITIZED AG includes technological advice before and during production, in the definition of the verified efficacy and in the use of the Sanitized®Ingredient Brand for promotional purposes.

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Cost-efficient BCF yarn production for demanding processes with Sytec One from Oerlikon Neumag

Cost-efficient production of carpet yarns beyond commodity products can constitute a challenge. Highly standardized production systems must strike compromises with regard to throughput, quality or cost-efficiency. At the Domotex 2018, the world's largest trade fair for floor coverings, Oerlikon Neumag will present the Sytec One solution for demanding BCF processes.

The Sytec One is a BCF plant with only one end per position. Due to this single-end characteristic, it is particularly well suited for demanding production processes, such as recycled polyester or fine filaments. The reason: In the event of a yarn break, only one end breaks. All the other positions are not affected and continue to run. As a result, this plant has a higher efficiency compared with a multi-end technology plant. For example, with ten breaks a day, the efficiency of the Sytec One is still over 98%, while a threeend technology achieves only 92% efficiency.

Higher productivity due to the straight yarn path

The machine concept of the Sytec One with its absolutely straight yarn path in spinning and texturing also enables significantly higher process speeds compared to multi-end technologies. This results in a speed increase of up to 15%. In addition to standard processes, more demanding processes with higher break rates play an increasingly important role. "The product mix is critical to the choice of technology," said Martin Rademacher, vice president of sales Oerlikon Neumag. "We are in the comfortable position of being able to offer our customers both a single-end and a three-end technology."