From the Sector

Focus on Sustainability and Climate Change

Passion for Cotton: The 35th International Cotton Conference Bremen starts on 25 March in the Hanseatic city’s historic Town Hall. But before subject-specific questions are discussed in depth in the individual sessions, the concise and inspiring keynotes by leading business experts from science and industry will draw attention to the current trends and challenges in the industry at the start of the conference. A large part of the presentations is shaped by the current discussion on environmental and sustainability issues and the resulting consequences for the global economy.

Climate Change and Sustainability

“Climate change - a storm in a teacup?” asks Kai Hughes, Executive Director of the International Cotton Advisory Committee, Washington D.C., USA, in a provocative speech. The aim of his presentation is to work out the challenges of climate change especially for agriculture and cotton production. This should form the basis for later discussion on concrete approaches and solutions within the cotton community.

With his lecture “The HUGO BOSS sustainability programme ... and what our customer has to do with it” Andreas Streubig, Director of Global Sustainability at Hugo Boss AG, Metzingen, Germany, rolls up the textile value chain from a different angle, starting at the consumer level. As a representative of a premium brand for women's and men's clothing, Streubig discusses sustainability as a strategic element of the corporate strategy and provides information on how elements of the strategy are being implemented at Hugo Boss.

Rüdiger Senft, Head of Sustainability at Commerzbank, Frankfurt am Main, Germany, looks at the changing role of banks in financing the cotton market. In addition to a general introduction to the topic of sustainability and banking regulation, Senft's presentation deals with the financing of the cotton trade from a social and ecological point of view.
The opening session on 25 March is hosted by Bill Ballenden, founder and owner of Dragontree, Swindon, UK, an online auction platform for the cotton trade. As a former cotton manager for Louis Dreyfus in Europe and Asia, Bill Ballenden has many years of experience in the industry.

Cross-Cutting Issues: Digitalisation, Gender, Value Chains

The subsequent session in the conference programme with the headline “A Wider View” is devoted to currently defining trends and important cross-cutting issues in the industry. This goes far beyond classic cotton themes.

A lecture by Mark Messura, Senior Vice President, Global Supply Chain Marketing for Cotton Incorporated, Cary, North Carolina, deals with the role of cotton in an increasingly digitally controlled supply chain. Significant keywords here are faster delivery times, vertical integration, transparency and traceability.

The presentation by Roger Gilmartin, Managing Director of Tri-Blend Consulting, Charlotte, USA, entitled “The secret recipe for timely, cost-optimised and high-quality cotton clothing” promises exciting and enlightening insights. Tri-Blend Consulting conducts studies on the performance of different cotton varieties during the entire consumption process to the finished yarn and evaluates them from an economic point of view.

Amy Jackson, from the Better Cotton Initiative, London, UK, presents ICA Liverpool's “Women in Cotton” initiative. With this commitment, the initiative aims to increase the influence of women in the cotton industry and give them a stronger voice, for example by building networks in cooperation.

Navdeep Singh Sodhi, International Strategic Management Consultant at the Gherzi Textile Organisation, Switzerland, gives an insight into the current development of the value chain for cotton, textiles and clothing in Africa. Looking ahead to the coming decades, also in view of population growth, Africa is seen as having a high potential for building economic structures to improve income and prosperity.

Thomas Schneider, Professor at the University of Applied Sciences in Berlin and active in the field of production planning and control, textile materials and materials testing will host the session. A leading light in his field, Thomas Schneider has more than 30 years of experience in scientific and application-oriented research in the textile and fibre sector, including at the Fibre Institute Bremen e.V.

As a member of the Swiss Textile Machinery Association, Saurer will give visitors the opportunity to learn about the company and to gain an overview of its spinning and embroidery offerings at ITME Africa from 14 to 16 February 2020. At the exhibition, visitors will learn more about Saurer’s extensive spinning offerings, which enable customers to process a wide range of fibres depending on their needs using ring-, worsted- and compact- or rotor-spinning technologies. Autoairo, the group’s new double-sided air-spinning machine, will also be introduced to prospective clients.

The National Council of Textile Organizations (NCTO), representing the full spectrum of U.S. textiles from fiber though finished sewn products, provides initial comments on the Phase One deal on 301 tariffs reached between the United States and China today.

“We look forward to reviewing the details of the agreement as it becomes available, including the intellectual property enforcement mechanisms agreed to by both countries.  We have long supported the administration’s efforts to re-balance our trade relationship with China that has significantly eroded our U.S. manufacturing base for decades,” Kim Glas, President and CEO of the National Council of Textile Organizations said.

The proposed announcement means that 301 duties on textile inputs will remain at a 25 percent tariff. Meanwhile, penalty duties on finished apparel and textile products implemented on Sept. 1st will be reduced from 15 percent to 7.5 percent, and proposed duties on finished products set to be put in place on Dec. 15th will no longer go into effect.

“NCTO has strongly supported applying tariffs on finished products as key negotiating leverage since textile and apparel production is a key pillar of the Chinese manufacturing economy.  Finished apparel, home furnishings and other made-up textile goods equate to 93.5 percent of U.S imports from China in our sector, while fiber, yarn and fabric imports from China only represents 6.5 percent, according to government data.  Today’s announcement reduces tariffs on finished products at the same time it keeps tariffs in place on key inputs that aren’t made in the U.S. such as certain dyes, chemicals, and textile machinery. We believe a wiser approach would be to maintain penalty duties on finished Chinese products while reducing 301 duties on key inputs that are used by U.S. manufacturers. Doing so will maintain maximum leverage on China to reach a more comprehensive and enforceable intellectual property agreement, while reducing input costs for U.S. manufacturers.  As domestic textile companies fight to compete with China and their illegal trade practices, it is important that U.S. manufacturers should be the first to see penalty duties removed on inputs not made in the United States.

As we review this Phase One agreement, it is important that the administration strike the proper balance of maintaining its leverage with China by keeping duties on finished product until a final strong and enforceable deal with China is completed.  We look forward to reviewing and analyzing the deal in more detail.”

Long-established expertise and bold imagination define a state-of-the-art collection, providing an overview of the company’s complete denim services. From the idea development to the finished garment, the project was entirely envisioned, advanced and manufactured by the leading international group.

Mastery and creativity belong to Elleti Group’s character since the very beginning of its journey in the textile industry. Enhancing its unique approach, which also combines a solid tradition of excellence and the commitment towards innovation, the company returns once again to Kingpins Amsterdam Show with an exclusive new project to be presented at Transformatorhuis – Booth T7.

Inspired by six great artistic movements from the past century, Out of the blue impressions is the special capsule collection reimagining the timeless beauty of art through a unique style that breaks new ground. Twelve garments, featuring denim and more, are the result of the in-house R&D team effort and commitment to the development of one-of-a-kind solutions.

Every piece was envisioned and advanced according to a fresh and disrupting approach to art, resulting in unprecedented interpretations of much loved art periods to be realized on special canvases through specific techniques.

The Board of Directors of Autoneum Holding Ltd has appointed Matthias Holzammer, the former, long-term Head of Business Group Europe, as CEO with immediate effect. He is taking over from Martin Hirzel, who will be leaving the Company in agreement with the Board of Directors. Since the existing problems in North America are proving more challenging than expected, the Group's operating result in the second semester of 2019 will not improve, contrary to previous forecasts.

Matthias Holzammer has already demonstrated his operational expertise as the Company’s Head of Business Group Europe, which he successfully restructured from 2012 on and transformed into a highly profitable Business Group. Due to the severe operational and commercial issues in North America, the turnaround and improvement of results will take more time than expected. Matthias Holzammer will devote himself to this task with the highest priority, in order to return the Business Group and the Group back to profitability as quickly as possible. "In view of the current challenges in North America and the volatile global market environment, Matthias Holzammer is the ideal choice to lead the Company as CEO with his industry experience, knowledge of Autoneum and track record in restructuring”, said Hans-Peter Schwald, Chairman of the Board of Directors of Autoneum Holding Ltd.

Berlin - 200 exhibitors, around 1,000 visitors and over 20 speakers from Germany and abroad – the ATSG textile fair premiered in Berlin from 11 to 13 September 2019 brought together exhibitors, speakers and trade visitors from all over the world. Jason Prescott, CEO of JP Communications, said he was satisfied with the event at the Estrel Conference Center: "The first step has been taken, now we will establish the ATSG as an important event of the Berlin fashion and textile world".

The ATSG was the first fair of its kind in Germany. "There are many fashion trade fairs for sale from wholesale to retail. Berlin has so far lacked an event for companies of all sizes, including micro-brands and small fashion labels," continues Jason Prescott. The exhibited product categories included fabrics, technical clothing, mixed and knitted fabrics, home textiles, leather, natural and synthetic fibres, readymade goods and fashion accessories. Visitors to major European fashion brands as well as small, independent brands from the Berlin fashion scene were able to take a close look at raw materials and finished garments and discuss their ideas personally with the exhibitors. In parallel, China Textile Brand Show (Berlin), sponsored by Chinese Ministry of Commerce (MOFCOM), made its debut bringing in more than 150 superb Chinese manufacturers with their best collections for Germany and EU market.

Opening Ceremony, Lectures and Fashion Show

The ATSG was opened by Chinese government representatives and international association delegates. More than 20 lectures on the three days provided the latest impulses for thought and discussion. In their lectures and panel discussions, speakers from all over the world presented current positions on topics such as "All China? Or is there more to it?", "Application examples of artificial intelligence in the fashion industry", "Optimal logistics concepts for Europe", or "The importance of sustainability in the European fashion industry".

Wilson Zhu, COO at Li & Fung, one of the world's largest trading houses based in Hong Kong, explained in his keynote speech his view on the digitization of global supply chains: "From raw materials in the textile factory to consumer tracking: In retail, every step of the value chain is determined by digitization.

Companies need to be close to consumers and their supply chains must enable a seamless flow of data and information from start to finish". Customers and their requirements have also changed: "They want to know about origin, recyclability and production standards and use their information to adjust their purchasing behavior accordingly.” Other speakers included Jeff Streader of the brand investment platform Go Global and Salman Khokhar of Brand Lab Kollective Moda. The fashion show on the second day featured creations by local Berlin labels (Damur, Danny Reinke, Aline Celi, Yoona Tech) as well as Asian brands exhibiting at ATSG.

Successful kick-off

Exhibition organiser Jason Prescott draws a positive balance: "Looking back on the three days, I am very proud of what went well. Which has been confirmed for us: We're on an exciting path, have taken our first steps here in Berlin and will continue to develop the exhibition." The creators of ATSG 2019 are taking ideas for the year 2020 with them, especially from the many intensive discussions with exhibitors and visitors: "The ATSG has offered visitors and exhibitors a unique opportunity to identify new growth strategies, look around for market partners, learn from each other and establish networks. We are very pleased that the concept was used here in Berlin," concludes Chase Vance, Director of JP Communications.

• Committed To Making a Better World

EUROBIKE, the world’s leading trade fair for the cycling industry, will include ROICA™ smart innovations into the race. Cycle retailers, brands and manufacturers will discover ROICA™ premium stretch that provides comfort and movement as it energizes.

Spearheading the premium stretch market, ROICA™ partners’ materials elevate new standards for high-tech performance that can enhance cycling products to compete responsibly. ROICA™ partners excite you as they show a fantastic range of stretch essentials for cycling clothing, gear, and apparel that offer solid performance perks.

Most importantly, visit ROICA™ partners at EUROBIKE to learn about their ongoing commitment to responsible innovation and creativity by experiencing their advanced responsible developments made with the ROICA Eco-SmartTM Family.

The ROICA Eco-Smart™ family offers two responsible made yarns with outstanding stretch performances that give free rein to designers’ creativity and guarantees the highest quality while complying to the most-cutting edge sustainable standards.

• The ROICA™ EF– GRS (Global Recycled Standard) certified - is made with 58% of pre-consumer recycled content. GRS guarantees its sustainable mission with a certification by the influential Textile Exchange*, one of the most known and recognized global players in the market.
• The ROICA™ V550   Indeed, it proudly breaks down without releasing harmful substance under the testing environment according to Hohenstein Environmental Compatibility certification. Made and engineered by Asahi Kasei R&D team, and produced in ROICA™ German plant only, the yarn offers additional and relevant circular economy advantages linked to material health as proved by a Gold Level Material Health Certificate by the Cradle to Cradle Product Innovation Institute for a safe and biological end of life cycle.

Witness ROICA™ partners as leaders in high-tech performance fabrics for the world of sports for riders that want to stand out. See, feel, imagine and learn why choosing ROICA™ is a winning decision. View the unbeatable collection of well-constructed fabric

• M.I.T.I. SpA (IT), Hall/Stand No. A7-215 partner with ROICA™ since the very beginning, develops and creates from more than 85 years, innovative stretch warp knitted fabrics for high performance sports.
• Payen – ESF (FR), Hall/Stand No. A7 / A7-219, committed to develop durable performant solutions chooses ROICA Resistance™ range of high-tech protection stretch functions.
• Piave Maitex (IT), Hall/Stand No. A7-123 presents AGAIN, the new smart and technically advanced line able to balance performances and sustainable features, formed of highly performing jerseys. Two premium sustainable ingredients have been involved for the creation of AGAIN: Global Recycled Standard (GRS) owned by Textile Exchange - premium stretch fiber ROICA™ EF and perPETual high quality sustainable polyester born from a cost-effective process that reverses engineer consumer waste PET bottles.
• SITIP SpA (IT), Hall/Stand No. A7-213 creates high-tech innovative sports fabrics that are made in Italy including BeHot fabric constructed with ROICA™, providing a new dimension to active performance.
• Sportwear Argentona S.A. (ES) Hall/Stand No. A7-322 based in Spain, these leaders in high-tech tech, optimal performance sports fabrics create specialized structures for all facets of sports including high comfort, elastic and performance.

• Ice, style and performance

These are the keywords which describe the new eclectic creations by the Riri Group for the Fall Winter season 2020-2021: a journey through the winter, its atmosphere and its colours Mendrisio, September 2019 - Première Vision Paris (17 - 19 September) will set the stage for the new proposals for the Fall Winter 2020-21 collection by the Riri Group, a leading brand in the zip and button manufacturing sector for high couture and outdoor apparel. A preview of the new collection by the Swiss group will take place at Munich Fabric Start (3 – 5 September).

COLOURS, MATERIALS AND TEXTURES

Winter landscapes and polar tones have inspired the colours of this new collection: nuances of grey, azure and white remind us of the typical tones of ice; also dominant is the presence of blue, intense and rich in contrast thanks to the attractive green inserts; black interventions are then harmoniously inserted as part of the colour palette, creating an appealing interplay of colour references. Tapes, pullers and chains provide new pleasant tactile sensations and unexpected visual inputs, through the search for always new processing methods the iceberg effect reproduced with a laser system, the texture reminding us of snake skin, from marble effect to horn processing, and freehand diamond turning, as well as the three-dimensional drop varnishing and the stylish mother-of-pearl effect.

NOVELTIES

The guiding thread for the new “Winterstorm” collection is the use of nuanced colours and ‘ice-like’ effects, reminding us of winter landscape and climates, as in the new Decor Cristal zip with transparent chain or in the Aquatyre zip, available also in a new luminescent version. Among the new creations, the Metal 3H zip stands out: the smallest and most innovative in the collection, lightweight and with a streamlined design. The provocations for this fall-winter have reached extreme levels, with a zip made of synthetic fur and incorporated buttons, whose cover can be removed and then reapplied, to face polar temperatures with a touch of glamour. Alongside the most fashionable novelties, the research by the Riri group does not cease to surprise in the outdoor sector also as regards buttons. This is confirmed by Rislide, the snap closure with a nylon body and Zama button. The innovative b-lock pressure button – with high lateral hold – has been restyled with a silicone shaped head in three colours. As part of a collection characterised by style and performance elements, it is definitely worth mentioning Zero, also in its invisible version: this button – thanks to its elegant design, combines practicality and style without compromising on performance.

Assuming social responsibility and acting sustainably has been Autoneum's focus since it became an independent company. In order to achieve the best results possible, the Company last year has defined a number of quantitative and qualitative targets in the areas of “Sustainable Products and Production Processes”, “Fair and Attractive Workplace”, “Good Corporate Citizenship” and “Responsible Supply Chain Management” for 2025. In all these areas Autoneum has achieved important successes already in 2018.

Through the consistent implementation of environmental efficiency projects – a total of over 80 worldwide – Autoneum reduced its environmental impact further in 2018. For example, both the amount of waste (–5.9%) and water consumption (–13.4%) have fallen sharply. At the same time, various plants – particularly in Asia and North America – have expanded their recycling capacity, significantly increasing the amount of production waste reused in the manufacturing process (14.9%).

To further improve working conditions especially in production, measures were taken in all Business Groups in 2018 to enhance occupational health and safety and well-being in the workplace. A global employee satisfaction survey conducted in fall last year has confirmed the first positive effects of these measures.

A complete overview of all targets and activities during the past year can be found in the Corporate Responsibility Report 2018 and is available at www.autoneum.com/corporateresponsibility/.

• Herzog: Organic start of Industry 4.0 scenarios with an app
• Mahlo: Better production results with digital help
• Lindauer DORNIER: An addition to personalized services

On the occasion of a VDMA press conference themed “ITMA countdown” in Frankfurt, speakers from member companies Lindauer DORNIER, Herzog and Mahlo showed how Industry 4.0 solutions are going to impact the textile process chain and what technologies visitors can expect to see at ITMA 2019. The products examples of the respective companies made clear that Industry 4.0 is no end in itself but helps to improve production processes and results and supplements the range of services.

Interview 1

Interview 2