From the Sector

As part of a broader initiative to reduce environmental impacts and keep ahead of evolving global chemical regulations, Active Apparel Group (AAG), manufacturer of performance apparel for the leisure/lifestyle and active market, is embracing water-based OEKO-TEX 100 Class 1 Standard Printing Inks in their manufacturing process.

Common and inexpensive inks used in the global manufacture of apparel contain a wide range of toxic chemicals, including phthalates, petroleum-based co-solvents, PVC, and other volatile organic compounds. AAG’s initiative to use OEKO-TEX approved, water-based inks creates benefits for factory workers, people living local to these factories, consumers, and everyone downstream.

AAG offers a range of printing methods to address a variety of customer needs, including:  digital printing, screen printing, and heat transfers for on-garment logos and care instructions. OEKO-TEX certified water-based inks are used for all of its digital printing and for the majority of its screen printing. These non-toxic water-based inks offer a socially and environmentally better alternative to the more commonly used Plastisol inks.

Making a sizable environmental impact, the printing service of AAG’s business is significant. Digital printing averages 25,000 meters per month with screen printing averaging 60,000 garments per month.

The use of water-based inks requires a skilled production team and training of employees is ongoing. AAG currently employs 30 people at its printing operations in Ningbo, China.

The “Cellulose Fibres Conference 2024” held in Cologne on 13-14 March demonstrated the innovative power of the cellulose fibre industry. Several projects and scale-ups for textiles, hygiene products, construction and packaging showed the growth and bright future of this industry, supported by the policy framework to reduce single-use plastic products, such as the Single Use Plastics Directive (SUPD) in Europe.

40 international speakers presented the latest market trends in their industry and illustrated the innovation potential of cellulose fibres. Leading experts introduced new technologies for the recycling of cellulose-rich raw materials and gave insights into circular economy practices in the fields of textiles, hygiene, construction and packaging. All presentations were followed by exciting panel discussions with active audience participation including numerous questions and comments from the audience in Cologne and online. Once again, the Cellulose Fibres Conference proved to be an excellent networking opportunity to the 214 participants and 23 exhibitors from 27 countries. The annual conference is a unique meeting point for the global cellulose fibre industry.  

For the fourth time, nova-Institute has awarded the “Cellulose Fibre Innovation of the Year” Award at the Cellulose Fibres Conference. The Innovation Award recognises applications and innovations that will lead the way in the industry’s transition to sustainable fibres. Close race between the nominees – “The Straw Flexi-Dress” by DITF & VRETENA (Germany), cellulose textile fibre from unbleached straw pulp, is the winning cellulose fibre innovation 2024, followed by HONEXT (Spain) with the “HONEXT® Board FR-B (B-s1, d0)” from fibre waste from the paper industry, while TreeToTextile (Sweden) with their “New Generation of Bio-based and Resource-efficient Fibre” won third place.

Prior to the event, the conference advisory board had nominated six remarkable innovations for the award. The nominees were neck and neck, when the winners were elected in a live vote by the audience on the first day of the conference.

First place
DITF & VRETENA (Germany): The Straw Flexi-Dress – Design Meets Sustainability
The Flexi-Dress design was inspired by the natural golden colour and silky touch of HighPerCell® (HPC) filaments based on unbleached straw pulp. These cellulose filaments are produced using environmentally friendly spinning technology in a closed-loop production process. The design decisions focused on the emotional connection and attachment to the HPC material to create a local and circular fashion product. The Flexi-Dress is designed as a versatile knitted garment – from work to street – that can be worn as a dress, but can also be split into two pieces – used separately as a top and a straight skirt. The top can also be worn with the V-neck front or back. The HPC textile knit structure was considered important for comfort and emotional properties.

Second place
Honext Material (Spain): HONEXT® Board FR-B (B-s1, d0) – Flame-retardant Board made From Upcycled Fibre Waste From the Paper Industry
HONEXT® FR-B board (B-s1, d0) is a flame-retardant board made from 100 % upcycled industrial waste fibres from the paper industry. Thanks to innovations in biotechnology, paper sludge is upcycled – the previously “worthless” residue from paper making – to create a fully recyclable material, all without the use of resins. This lightweight and easy-to-handle board boasts high mechanical performance and stability, along with low thermal conductivity, making it perfect for various applications in all interior environments where fire safety is a priority. The material is non-toxic, with no added VOCs, ensuring safety for both people and the planet. A sustainable and healthy material for the built environment, it achieves Cradle-to-Cradle Certified GOLD, and Material Health CertificateTM Gold Level version 4.0 with a carbon-negative footprint. Additionally, the product is verified in the Product Environmental Footprint.

Third Place
TreeToTextile (Sweden): A New Generation of Bio-based and Resource-efficient Fibre
TreeToTextile has developed a unique, sustainable and resource efficient fibre that doesn’t exist on the market today. It has a natural dry feel similar to cotton and a semi-dull sheen and high drape like viscose. It is based on cellulose and has the potential to complement or replace cotton, viscose and polyester as a single fibre or in blends, depending on the application.
TreeToTextile Technology™ has a low demand for chemicals, energy and water. According to a third party verified LCA, the TreeToTextile fibre has a climate impact of 0.6 kg CO2 eq/kilo fibre. The fibre is made from bio-based and traceable resources and is biodegradable.

The next conference will be held on 12-13 March 2025.

At the "International Conference on Cellulose Fibers 2024" in Cologne, Germany, the Nova Institute for Ecology and Innovation awarded first place in the Innovation Prize to the project partners of the EU-funded HEREWEAR project. They presented a dress made of cellulose fibers, which is entirely made of straw pulp.

HEREWEAR is an EU-wide research project that brings together partners from research and industry. They are working to establish a European circular economy for locally produced textiles and clothing made from bio-based raw materials.
The HEREWEAR consortium consists of small and medium-sized enterprises and research institutions. HEREWEAR covers all the necessary expertise and infrastructure from academic and applied research and industry from nine EU countries.

The HEREWEAR approach includes technical and ecological innovations in the production of fibers, yarns, fabrics, knitwear and garments, as well as the use of regional value chains and the circular development of fashion items.

New technologies for wet and melt spinning of cellulose and bio-based polyesters, e.g. PLA, from which yarns and fabrics are produced, form the technical basis. Coating and dyeing processes have been developed and tested as part of the project. In addition to reducing the carbon footprint of the product, another environmental goal is to reduce the release of microfibers throughout the textile manufacturing process and life cycle.

Improving the sustainability and recyclability of the developed garments is ensured by design for circularity and digitally networked production means. On-demand production is realized in so-called "microfactories", which are individualized and produce only for actual demand. This production method can be achieved through regional, networked value chains and enables the traceability of materials and manufacturing processes.

The dress presented at the award ceremony is an example of the cooperation and the different qualifications of the project partners: TNO (Netherlands Organization for Applied Scientific Research) provided sustainably produced pulp. The HighPerCell fibers were produced in DITF's spinning facilities. At the same time, designers from the fashion label Vretena created the design for the flexible, two-piece dress, which can be knitted without cutting waste. DITF textile experts worked with the designers to develop the knitting pattern. DITF textile engineers and technicians produced the knitted fabric and assembled the dress at the institutes’ technical center. DITF computer scientists and engineers created the "value chain" and "digital twins" for digital traceability of the production processes.

The innovation prize was awarded to the HEREWEAR consortiu for their joint achievement. Representatives of DITF Denkendorf and Vretena accepted the award on behalf of the EU project partners.

Freudenberg Performance Materials (Freudenberg) is showcasing solutions for the automotive, building, apparel, filtration and packaging industries at this year’s Techtextil in Frankfurt am Main from April 23 – 26.

Sustainable nonwoven for car seats
One innovation highlight at Techtextil is a novel Polyester nonwoven material for car seat padding. Also available as a nonwoven composite with PU foam, it is not only easier for car seat manufacturers to handle during the mounting process, but also ensures better dimensional stability as well as providing soft and flexible padding. It has a minimum 25 percent recycled content, for example, by reusing nonwoven clippings and waste, and is fully recyclable. Full supply chain transparency enables customers to trace and verify the content of the nonwoven and thus ensures a responsible production process. The Freudenberg experts will also be presenting several other nonwoven solutions made of up to 80 percent recycled materials that can be used in car seat manufacturing.

Biocarrier for green roofs
Freudenberg is showcasing a sustainable carrier material for green roofs on urban buildings at the trade fair. The carrier is made from polylactide, i.e. from renewable resources. When filled with soil, it provides a strong foothold to root systems, enabling the growth of lightweight sedum blankets that can be rolled out to provide instant green roofs. These roofs not only help counter urban heat, they also improve stormwater management and regulate indoor temperatures.

From textile waste to padding
The company extended its circular thermal wadding product range with the release of comfortemp® HO 80xR circular, a wadding made from 70 percent recycled polyamide from discarded fishing nets, carpet flooring and industrial plastic. Because polyamide 6, also known as nylon, retains its performance characteristics after multiple recycling processes, the fibers can be used again and again to manufacture performance sporting apparel, leisurewear and luxury garments.

Packaging solutions with various sustainability benefits
Freudenberg is also showcasing products for sustainable packaging and filtration solutions. The long-lasting Evolon® technical packaging series is a substitute for disposable packaging used in the transport of sensitive industrial items such as automotive parts. The material is made from up to 85 percent recycled PET. A further highlight at Techtextil are Freudenberg’s fully bio-based solutions for manufacturing dessicant bags. The binder-free material based on bio-fibers is also industrially compostable.
In addition, the experts will be giving trade fair visitors an insight into Freudenberg’s filtration portfolio.

Turkey's leading garment machinery manufacturers and representatives have collaborated with Teknik Fuarcılık for GarmentTech İstanbul Garment, Embroidery Machines Spare Parts and Sub Industry Exhibition to host the first GarmentTech İstanbul Exhibition.

The GarmentTech İstanbul Exhibition will be held at İstanbul Expo Center (IFM) between June 25-28, 2025 and brings together all the technologies used in garment and ready-to-wear production.

The ready-to-wear and garment sector is among the locomotive sectors of the Turkish economy with both employment and export income. With 22 thousand 640 exporters and 42 thousand 434 manufacturers, the sector is among the priority sectors in the country's employment with approximately 700 thousand people working in production. Together with the retail and ready-to-wear sectors, total employment exceeds 2 million.

On the other hand, ready-to-wear and garment sector is the 3rd largest exporter in Turkey. Turkey is the 5th country in the world that exports the most ready-to-wear and garment. In 2023, the sector reached 19.3 billion dollars in exports and has a share of 7.5% in general exports.

Teknik Fuarcılık, which has more than 30 years of experience in exhibition organization and has made the ITM International Textile Machinery Exhibition a world brand, has taken action to make the success achieved by the garment and ready-to-wear sector sustainable. GarmentTech İstanbul Exhibition, which will be organized with the support of the members of the Garment Machinery Advisory Board and in cooperation with the Apparel Automation and Machinery Manufacturers Association (KOMİD), will host professional visitors and global buyers from all over the world.

The press conference of GarmentTech İstanbul Exhibition was attended by members of the Garment Machinery Advisory Board, Vice Chairman of Astaş Holding H. Kaya Aşçı, Astaş Juki Board Member and General Manager Turgay Aşçı, Chairman of the Board of Çatma Makine Yavuz Çatma, Chairman of the Board of Alba Makine Cengiz Albayrak, General Manager of Malkan Makine Alparslan Er, General Manager of Uğur Makine Temel Kamiloğlu, Tetaş Sales and Marketing Assistant General Manager Murat Eren, Malkan Makina Factory Manager Metin Kılıç and KOMID President Haluk Akın, TEMSAD President Adil Nalbant, KOMİD Members Serkon Makina Chairman İzzet Savaş, Robotech General Manager Hüseyin Çetin, Chairman of the Board of NewTech Machinery Nezir Yazıcı, LGM Foreign Trade Specialist Yiğit Sağdık Manav, Avtek Manager Oğuz Avcı and many sector representatives.

SHIMA SEIKI MFG., LTD. is exhibiting at the Knit-Tech 2024 Exhibition (1st-4th March 2024) in Tiruppur, India, in cooperation with its partner Universal MEP Projects & Engineering Services Ltd.

SHIMA SEIKI will be introducing the latest computerized flat knitting equipment to this market as proposals for sustainable production through innovative shaping technology and the latest digital solutions.

SHIMA SEIKI's lineup at Knit-Tech is headed by its workhorse N.SSR®112 garment shaping machine in 14 gauge. N.SSR®112 features innovations such as the R2CARRIAGE®, spring-type moveable sinker, DSCS® Digital Stitch Control System, stitch presser, yarn gripper and cutter, and takedown comb. Shown for the first time is SHIMA SEIKI's new N.SSR®072 computerized jacquard collar machine that can produce shaped collars efficiently based on computer-generated designs.

Design is demonstrated on SHIMA SEIKI's SDS®-ONE APEX4 design system. At the core of the company’s "Total Fashion System" concept, it provides support throughout the supply chain, integrating production into one smooth and efficient workflow from yarn development, product planning and design, to machine programming, production and even sales promotion.

Archroma has made its AVITERA® SE technology accessible to more brands and mills with the launch of AVITERA® SE GENERATION NEXT for more cost-effective sustainable dyeing of cellulosic fibers and blends.

With an improved cost-to-performance ratio for new dark and extra-dark shades, the AVITERA® SE GENERATION NEXT range helps mills produce differentiated end articles that comply with the environmental requirements of leading brands and retailers while increasing yield, improving productivity and reducing processing costs.

With high-speed low-temperature wash-off, high process reliability and great reproducibility, AVITERA® SE Generation Next allows mills to achieve water and energy savings of up to 50% and to slash CO₂ emissions and effluent discharge by up to 50% as well. It can also increase mill output by up to 25% or more. The dyes are free from arylamines, including PCA^[1], and offer fastness properties, retaining their colors through repeated home laundering and exposure to light, perspiration and chlorine.

Three new dark colors have been added to the AVITERA® SE range:

• AVITERA® BLACK PEARL SE: A greenish-cast black dye with high color consistency that can be used to correct metamerism.
• AVITERA® BLUE HORIZON SE: A deep blue element with good light fastness in medium to deep shades, as well as high oxidative fastness and high resistance to nitrogen oxides (NOx) in the atmosphere.
• AVITERA® NIGHT STORM SE: A new navy shade with a greenish cast and strong build up. It is recommended for dyeing the deepest navy and combination shades.

^[1] Non-detectable on the garment

Operating in Bangladesh since 1996, this is the fourteenth time the Japanese manufacturer is participating in DTG.

As the Bangladeshi textile industry calls for sustainable production through innovation and digitalization, the market is keen to establish effective business models that support such production. In response, for the first time in its DTG exhibition history, SHIMA SEIKI's lineup consists entirely of WHOLEGARMENT® knitting machines. Capable of knitting an entire garment in one piece without the need for linking or sewing while using only the material required to knit one garment at a time, WHOLEGARMENT® knitting is famous for promoting sustainability in the knit factory.

The company is showing its MACH2®XS153 WHOLEGARMENT® knitting machine in 15L gauge, as well as its SWG®091N2 "Mini" WHOLEGARMENT® knitting machine in 15 gauge. MACH2®XS features 4 needle beds and SHIMA SEIKI's original SlideNeedle™, capable of producing high-quality fine gauge WHOLEGARMENT® knitwear in all needles. SWG®091N2 provides opportunities in WHOLEGARMENT® knitting across a wide range of items in a compact, economical package. A different approach to WHOLEGARMENT knitting is also shown in the form of the N.SVR®183 machine. SHIMA SEIKI's global standard in shaped knitting, the N.SVR® series now features a model for producing WHOLEGARMENT® knitwear using every other needle in fine gauge. Shown in 18 gauge at DTG, N.SVR®183 is the ideal machine for flexible, entry-level WHOLEGARMENT® production, with the versatility to respond to fluctuating market demand.

Demonstrations are performed on SHIMA SEIKI's SDS®-ONE APEX4 design system. At the core of the company’s "Total Fashion System" concept, it provides comprehensive support throughout the supply chain, integrating production into one smooth and efficient workflow from yarn development, product planning and design, to machine programming, production and even sales promotion.

SHIMA SEIKI ITALIA S.p.A., Italian subsidiary of leading Japanese computerized knitting solutions provider SHIMA SEIKI MFG., LTD., will exhibit at the 94th edition of the Pitti Immagine Filati exhibition in Florence, Italy (24th-26th January 2024). It will exhibit as part of the CustomEasy section, which involves the concept of Fashion at Work and explores customization in the presence of textile machinery and design software, represented in part by SHIMA SEIKI's lineup of WHOLEGARMENT® knitting machines and APEXFiz® design software.

The new SWG-XR® flagship machine features 4 needle beds for all-needle knitting of high quality WHOLEGARMENT® products using the company's original SlideNeedle™, in addition to a re-designed sinker system and a compact, light-weight carriage featuring 4 systems as well as auto yarn carriers. All contribute to increased productivity of more than 25% over the previous MACH2®XS machine, as well as increased product range using a wider variety of yarn for supporting knits for all seasons, and higher quality for knitting beautiful fabrics and silhouettes; even items that were impossible to knit with the MACH2® series, including punch-lace patterns, variable stitch knitting and intarsia knitting. Setting new standards for the next generation of waste-free, sustainable WHOLEGARMENT® knitting, SWG-XR® at Pitti Filati will be shown in 15L and 18L as well as a prototype machine in 22L.

APEXFiz® subscription-based design software supports the creative side of fashion from planning and design to colorway evaluation, realistic fabric simulation and 3D virtual sampling. Virtual samples are a digitized version of sample making that are accurate enough to be used effectively as prototypes. By replacing physical samples, virtual samples reduce time, cost and material that otherwise go to waste.

The product planning capability of APEXFiz® is enhanced by several web services featured as part of the SHIMA SEIKI Online Services (SHIMA online) web platform. These include SHIMA Datamall™ digital content web service that allows users to search, browse and purchase a variety of useful data for streamlining the planning and production of fashion items, as well as the recently renewed yarnbank® digital yarn sourcing web service that offers digitized yarn data by yarn companies from around the world for download and use in virtual sampling. SHIMANAVI® e-learning system is also part of the online platform.

Avery Dennison, a leader in materials science and digital identifications solutions, has completed a project with NRVLD, a community-based agency comprising artists, technologists and media personalities who are passionate about disruptive innovation.

Avery Dennison created limited edition augmented reality T-shirts worn by the NRVLD Executive Team during ‘NRVLD’, an immersive event held during Art Basel Miami Beach in December 2023.

The 30 T-shirts were digitally connected via heat transfers featuring a QR code and image recognition. Visitors were transported to an immersive artwork metaverse, built by ARkivist. In addition to the AR experience, each garment was personalized with the wearer's contact details embedded in the NFC woven patch on the chest, providing a connection point for guests throughout the event. Both connected garment experiences were powered by Avery Dennison’s atma.io connected product cloud.

Avery Dennison will be showcasing this project at NRF 2024: Retail’s Big Show, from January 14-16 at the Javits Convention Center in New York. The connected T-shirts will feature alongside a host of apparel digital solutions for supply chain visibility, product tracking, and consumer engagement.

Michael Colarossi, vice president, innovation, product line management and sustainability, Apparel Solutions, Avery Dennison comments: “The trajectory of consumer experiences unmistakably leans towards digital, and brands are actively seeking innovative methods to engage consumers by merging traditional craftsmanship with digital creativity. In this scenario, AR acted as the conduit, and Avery Dennison's connected garment technology and on-garment Embelex branding turned that vision into tangible reality."

Pavan Bahl, founder of Bellwether Culture and co-founder NRVLD, comments: "In the Web3 sphere, blockchain technology enables ownership of digital goods and identity. Our collaboration with Avery Dennison showcases the potential of bridging this gap, illustrating the exciting possibilities in this space."