From the Sector

• Bemberg™ presents a great deal of novelties with a true key-statement for sustainability: Let’s Make it Circular!
• The lifespan of Bemberg™’s regenerated cellulose fiber Cupro derived from cotton is fully circular: from the source to manufacturing.

“Sustainability is the founding pillar of our company,” says SHUNSUKE SATO, sales manager of Bemberg™ by Asahi Kasei. “Indeed, the smart fiber is made from a cotton linter which is pre-consumer material, a natural derived source, that doesn’t deplete forestry resources”.

In Bemberg™’s production the whole sustainable closed-loop process is supported by the LCA study, signed by ICEA (Istituto per la Certificazione Etica e Ambientale) and validated by President of Ecoinnovazione Paolo Masoni ex Research Director of ENEA (Ente per le Nuove tecnologie, l’Energia e l’Ambiente).

While recyclability is granted by the Global Recycle Standard - GRS certification by the renown Textile Exchange (an influential guarantee that involves the whole production process and supply chain behind the company’s smart yarns), Bemberg™ yarns are also entirely biodegradable and ecotoxicity-free - meaning that at the end of their life circle they break down into the environment leaving no trace in terms of toxic substances as attested by the Innovhub-SSI report.

A special focus deserves Velutine™ Evo, the new fibrillation finishing technology for Bemberg™ fabrics only that guarantees another level of sustainable benefits without sacrificing the Bemberg™ amazing and unique touch. As part of the company’s continuous innovation, Velutine™ Evo brings better environmental, energy and water profiles for the benefit of Bemberg™ partners in the manufacture of their ranges.
The sustainable achievements of the new finishing technology have been measured by LCA - Life Cycle Assessment study by ICEA and proved to guarantee environmental benefits such as -16.5% of greenhouses gas emissions and -21% of overall consumption of energy resources. On top of that Velutine™ Evo means also -20.5% of electricity savings, -15.9% of steam production and -19.5% of water consumption.

The first Bemberg™ partner to present a commercial collection enriched by Velutine™ Evo is the Portuguese Matias & Araújo. With an innovative spirit, dynamism and a determined entrepreneurial spirit, the company is a leading knitwear producer for the textile industry.

Bemberg™ collaborated also with the premium brand CAALO that is making its mark in the outerwear market with its Sustainably produced Functional-Luxury proposal. For SS20, CAALO uses Bemberg™ lining because of the sustainability properties and it’s unique colour.

CAALO uses as much eco-friendly and sustainable materials as possible without compromising on design or quality. This Bemberg™ lining was a perfect fit. This versatile blazer features a removable hood, hidden welt pockets, button closure, and removable cargo pockets.

Sateri has scored ‘A-‘ in CDP (formerly Carbon Disclosure Project) for Climate Change in 2019, placing it at Leadership band and the top 27% of companies in its sector, for implementing current best practices. And making Sateri World’s First Viscose Producer to Reach Leadership Band

This is the first time Sateri has participated in this annual voluntary reporting. It is also the first time that a viscose producer has reached Leadership band. Sateri attained an ‘A’ for more than half of the 11 categories that it was assessed for, including value chain engagement, Scope 1,2,3 emissions, and governance. Its ‘A-‘ overall score is higher than the ‘C’ average globally, in Asia, and in the Textiles and Fabric Goods sector; no companies in the same sector scored ‘A’.

Allen Zhang, President of Sateri, said, “We are very pleased to achieve such a commendable score on our first attempt at CDP reporting. It is a validation of our efforts and actions to combat climate change and our contribution towards decarbonising the textile industry. The CDP platform not only helps us measure and benchmark our sustainability performance against more than 8,400 companies globally, but also serves as a management tool for continuous improvement.”

Sateri has made great strides in the last year on emission reduction work. In June 2019, Sateri and the China National Textile and Apparel Council (CNTAC) jointly launched the EcoCosy® Climate Leadership Programme. The programme invites Sateri’s value chain partners to participate in the Climate Stewardship 2030 Initiative to set a decarbonisation pathway for the fashion industry to reduce the industry’s GHG emissions by 30% by 2030. Results of the first phase of the programme were published in the EcoCosy® Climate Leadership Whitepaper 2020, which was shared at COP25 in Madrid last year.

The 2019 World Textile Forum closes its doors after two successful and exciting days.

On September 9 and 10 renowned speakers and experts from the textile business gathered in Zurich to discuss opportunities in the changing textile world. Exciting talks and keynotes illustrated new possibilities for a more sustainable and digital textile industry. While one part of the versatile program focussed on “Sustainable Sourcing” with speakers such as Robert van de Kerkhof (Lenzing AG), Heinz Zeller (Hugo Boss), Daniel Gemperle (Calida) and Anna Maria Rugarli (VF), the topic of “Digital Production” became the centre of attention later thanks to experts like Torbjörn Netland (ETH), Maximilian Kürig (Karl Mayer), Maria Neidhold (Spoonflower) and Holger Max-Lang (Lectra). They offered new perspectives on the sustainable future of the textile industry, presenting innovative sustainable production and business models. The subsequent panels furthered the knowledge exchange between both attendees and speakers and led to lively discussions.

Swiss Textile Federation, Swiss Textile & Fashion Institute STF and Gherzi Textil Organisation would like to thank all attendees and look forward to the next World Textile Forum!

TINTEX is this year recipient of the unique and prestigious annual recognition from The “Instituto de Apoio às Pequenas e Médias Empresas e à Inovação” (IAPMEI). TINTEX has been selected in recognition of its pioneering, Naturally Advanced global leadership, and the company’s superior and responsible fabric making for a fashion system that is driven by investments, transparency and fully traceable innovation.

TINTEX is pleased to open its doors as the Naturally Advanced centre of excellence in the latest IAPMEI OPEN DAY for textile leaders, protagonists, media and customers to experience, understand and enjoy the unique achievements TINTEX offers to the contemporary Portuguese textiles industry .
“We selected TINTEX to underline the importance of taking advantage of digitization and modernization at different levels in the textile industry being stunned by their commitment, shedding light on our territory’s most advanced and responsible processes and skills” José Marques dos Santos, president of IAPMEI.

In a fast moving globalized market, all companies must be able to adapt quickly and using innovation, creativity, and responsibility can help deliver successes. And here TINTEX can network between Technological Centers, Universities, and Knowledge Centers, as a strategic business and holistic imperative. And so sharing the Naturally Advanced strategy of TINTEX as a driver for change, IAPMEI recognizes this TINTEX OPEN DAY as a demonstration of practical market potential, and has partnered with CENTI  (Centre for Nanotechnology and Smart Materials the Institute for New Technologies) and CITEVE (an institution of national and international reference for the promotion of Innovation and Technological Development) as a way to guarantee this success.
 
Being able to drive material innovation, and to promote a new generation of sustainable values to contemporary fashion, active, sports and lingerie markets through responsible supply chains can be transformative for our future fashion systems, and TINTEX is proud to be selected as part of the Make Fashion Circular initiative by the Ellen MacArthur Foundation, helping  to better activate these changes across the fashion industry for all to enjoy.

The DyStar Group has released its 2017 – 2018 Sustainability Performance Report. Into its eighth edition, the report marks the progress of the global company that aspires to become the world’s most sustainable and responsible supplier of colorants, specialty chemicals, and services in the textile industry, but has also embarked on the business with food dyes and chemicals through its recent acquisition in USA.
The latest DyStar’s Sustainability Performance Report is the first of their reports prepared in accordance with the most trusted and widely used reporting framework – Global Reporting Initiative (GRI) Standards: Core Option.

The 2020 Target
2017 marks the seventh year of DyStar’s journey towards reducing the production footprint by 20% for every ton of production by the year 2020. This goal encompasses the resources used for production including energy, water, and raw materials as well as addresses their corresponding outputs – greenhouse gas (GHG) emissions, waste and wastewater. Results across most key performance indicators were positive, with four of the six 2020 targets being successfully met or surpassed.
In terms of the energy consumption and GHG emission, DyStar is farther from its original desired target primarily due to the impacts from three newly acquired production sites. However, intensive efforts are underway to ensure that the company’s less efficient acquisitions are provided the essential support to align with the rest of the company. DyStar is optimistic that all six targets are achievable by 2020.

Creating Responsible Products & Services
As part of DyStar’s long-term goal to imbed sustainability across the industry, they will also be focusing on expanding its sustainability services. This includes the opening of more Texanlab offices, an ISO 17025 certified, specialized testing laboratory across South Asia to provide end-to-end solutions throughout the whole supply chain.

Stepping Up on Cooperation with NGOs
Increasingly, DyStar is strengthening their partnerships with the Non-Governmental Organizations (NGOs). The 2017 report features an in-depth guest interview with the NGO China Water Risk, on how can suppliers like DyStar can be a role model in creating sustainable fashion.
To encourage and facilitate sustainable practices among its suppliers, DyStar also conducts sustainability-related supplier surveys. For instance, DyStar is cooperating with the Institute of Public & Environmental Affairs (IPE), one of the most established Chinese NGO, to expand the framework of their supplier questionnaire. In recognition of its efforts, DyStar received top ranking in the CITI transparency list for industrial chemicals from IPE, placing them well ahead of many other industry peers.

Embracing Diversity, Engaging Communities
Also, to help meet clients’ demand and demonstrate its responsibility and care in the food and beverages industry, DyStar is implementing a supplier diversity program to support businesses in the USA that are at least 51% owned by minority groups, women, veterans and people with disabilities.
Highlighting DyStar’s commitment to the communities they operate in, the company encourages volunteerism among employees, and for the year of 2017, DyStar employees devoted a total of 205 volunteer hours towards community projects, which also served as a meaningful collective experience for employees to form closer bonds.

Working Together Towards Long-Term Solutions
As an industry frontrunner, DyStar and its leaders are committed to driving sustainability across the
industry. However, significant challenges remain, and the stakeholders of this industry need to work together to derive long-term solutions. CEO of DyStar Group, Mr. Eric Hopmann emphasized, “It is imperative for the entire industry to improve collectively, not individually, and our ability to do so may determine the long-term profitability of the industry as a whole. It is my belief that effective partnerships coupled with stronger support and incentivization from leading companies within this industry could be key to creating a new – and much needed – equilibrium.”

To access DyStar’s sustainability reports, visit http://www.dystar.com/sustainability-reports/.

• Deep Insights into the Multifaceted World of Cotton
• Quality, Innovation and Digitalisation are Crucial

From the 21st to the 23rd of March, the international cotton industry came together in the historic Bremen Town Hall, under the motto "Cotton Insights". More than 500 participants from almost 40 countries came to exchange views on the latest trends in the natural raw material as part of the conference organised by the Bremen Cotton Exchange in cooperation with the Fibre Institute Bremen. The 34th International Cotton Conference provided a varied, in-depth programme which addressed the current and burning issues within the industry.

Summarising his visit to the conference, Kai Hughes, Executive Director of the International Cotton Advisory Committee (ICAC) in Washington said “The Bremen Cotton Conference is unique because it brings the diverse world of cotton together in one place. It is always a great opportunity to learn about the latest innovations, talk to cotton merchants and get an overview of the industry".

Sustainability and Cotton
This year, the conference developed into a whole week of diverse events around the entire cotton supply chain. With the “SUSTAIN” event, which was organised in cooperation with the Weser-Kurier newspaper, it was possible to build a bridge between the issue of sustainability and the end consumer.
With the focus on Africa, the emerging continent, which also has a special significance for cotton, became the centre of attention.

In his opening speech, Henning Hammer, President of the Bremen Cotton Exchange, made it clear that sustainability is also of great importance during the Cotton Conference: "The three pillars of sustainability – the environment, the economy and social issues – were already playing a role in the cotton industry when the word sustainability was far from being on everyone's lips.
Many changes that are being demanded in the sense of responsible agriculture and responsible trade take their time, many are already in the starting blocks and a lot already exists. We have a very alert, active agricultural research worldwide."

The Keynotes
The keynote session, moderated by the journalist Lisa Boekhoff from the newspaper Weser-Kurier, gave participants an overview, with an informative analysis of the current cotton situation. Kai Hughes, executive director of ICAC, emphasised in his keynote address the need to provide credible facts and figures which should be the basis for the entire supply chain. The marketing of cotton and changing consumer habits in a globalised and digitalised world were the subject of lectures by Mark Messura, Cotton Incorporated and Robert Antoshak, Olah Inc. Eugen Weinberg and Michael Alt from Commerzbank took a look at the raw material from a stock market perspective.

Traceability and Digitalisation
Digitalisation is also a cross-cutting issue that runs through the entire supply chain of the cotton industry. In his opening speech, Prof. Axel S. Hermann, Head of the Fibre Institute Bremen, emphasised the importance of digitalisation for the industry. “It enables new approaches in cotton cultivation and textile processing, but also influences consumer behaviour and thus the necessary changes in the textile industry.” The focus is on the status quo of the implementation, as well as the opportunities and risks of digitally controlled, vertically integrated procurement and sales processes and the associated challenges at retail level.

Another current topic is traceability, which is also closely linked to sustainability. More and more buyers want to know whether their suppliers are meeting the promised sustainability criteria for their products, also textile products. Consequently, the conference presented various techniques for testing the authenticity of a cotton provided in the finished textile, such as DNA testing, fingerprint analysis technique, marker methods and block-chain processes.

Cotton Quality
In addition to current subjects such as digitalisation and traceability, questions of cotton quality have traditionally been an essential element of the Cotton Conference, which was further reinforced this year with the "Spinners Seminar". The spinning mill seminar, which was carried out by the Cotton Exchange and the Fibre Institute in cooperation with the ITMF and IVGT associations, far exceeded expectations.

More than 70 participants discussed the handling of impurities in supplied cotton in the manufacturing process.
In addition, in a high-level expert session, there was an exchange of the latest research results which determine the future of cotton production and the processing of cotton into innovative products.