From the Sector

On the 25th of March ROICA™ by Asahi Kasei invited its strategic European partners to the Triennale Design Museum for the first ROICA™ Summit, with the aim of sharing its global strategy and to consolidate relationships that are key to the Asahi Kasei global vision of its fiber and business.

Among the speakers Senior Executive Manager Mr. Shinichiro Haga and its successor Mr. Takehiro Kamiyama, who will take on the new role after more than thirty years in the Asahi Kasei Corporation and more than three years at ROICA™. Together they opened the floor by explaining the ROICA™ business strategy, which is based on three main steps:

1. Continue to speed up ROICA™ responsible innovation  
2. Continue to speed up ROICA™ international partnerships with a strong focus on responsible innovation
3. Continue to push a new generation of communication where its story making will align with an authentic and consumer driven storytelling based on values.

Then, Mr. Shinohe Hiroaki Chief Marketing Officer Europe, introduced the new production strategy at global level  together with  its program of partnerships, plus the marketing and communication programs for the next year and beyond in synergy with Giusy Bettoni at C.L.A.S.S.

“We are extremely pleased to be here with our European partners, thanking them for the continuous valuable cooperations that made ROICA™ so special, and sharing with them which will be our next steps in order to be leading responsible innovation. This is a very precious moment, during which we are able to talk face to face and install long-lasting relationships, with the aim of supporting the apparel industry by making premium stretch becoming a key player for wellbeing values, which are extremely precious for the contemporary consumer. And this will be part of sport, lingerie, hosiery , fashion and swimwear wardrobes thanks to the ROICA™ special new generation of premium stretch innovations” affirms Shinohe Hiroaki.

Through the collaboration Payal Pratap and Bemberg™ by Asahi Kasei show a new way of making fashion, based on merging craft & tech, cutting-edge materials and deeply rooted optimism in troubled times.

With a strong focus on prints, the designer, Payal Pratap, has worked on hand-painted artworks which have then been digitized. The designs capture detailed elements and a three-dimensional depth and texture from the age-old crafts of Batik, plus powerful imagery and minute detailing from the ancient craft of Chintz printing. Batik was named after the Javanese words “Amba” which means to write and “Titik”, which translates to a dot or a point, while Chintz comes from the Hindi word “Cheent”, meaning spotted or speckled.  Both these techniques and crafts have been used in a contemporary context while creating the art works.

The prints encompass flora and fauna, bringing nature from the outside to the inside through the use of extensive flower, leaf, tree, vine and bird motifs, as an ode to sustainability. Placement prints have been engineered to make tailored jackets and structured pieces. A timeless collection comprising experimental pieces that blend the far east with India. A collection signaling holiday with a burst of colour. Bemberg™ in various avatars ranging from satins, muslins, mulmul, and silk blends have been used to create a collection with fluid drapes as well as structure.

The fabric takes printing and colour beautifully and has a slight sheen and glazed feel which resonates with chintz. The colour palette ranges from indigos, browns, rust, to burgundy brick and gold. Furthermore, Bemberg™ is an inherently sustainable ingredient, since it is made with cotton linters, pre-consumer materials derived from the cotton oil industry, and converted through a traceable and transparent closed loop process. Coming from nature and going back towards nature, the Bemberg™ fiber is also biodegradable and compostable.

• Cifra selects ROICA™ for a new generation of sportswear in the name of wellness and sustainability
• Performance Days, Hall C1 – stand N08

Cifra, a leading Italian company in Warp Knit Seamless, has chosen ROICA™ by Asahi Kasei, an international reference for premium and smart stretch, for a new generation of clothing dedicated to wellbeing, travelwear and athleisure, made with Cifra exclusive and patented technology in the name of uniqueness and sustainability.

Innovative garments for men and women that combine fashion and function, guaranteeing optimal comfort at any time of the day. Base layers, tops, leggings, jumpsuits made with natural yarns, or recycled pre and post-consumer yarns in combination with ROICA™ EF, the first recycled stretch yarn certified Global Recycled Standard (GRS) able to complete proposals that offer design, performance and responsibility.

The design of the garments, created in Cifra's design office, combines a perfect shape with body mapping technology that creates dedicated ventilation zones for a feeling of comfort and freshness as well as an innovative aesthetic impact.

And when it comes to comfort, ROICA™ activates a new generation conversation linked to the demands of the contemporary consumer looking for well-being in line with the concepts of safety and healthiness emerging in all aspects of daily life. In fact, ROICA™ by Asahi Kasei is the secret stretch ingredient of the modern wardrobe, able to "activate" garments by giving comfort, beauty, quality together with responsible and certified values.

All of this translates into the synergy of development with Cifra. The products, the materials that compose them, along with the way of production and who produces them, transparency and traceability are all aspects that become an integral part of the common proposal that Cifra and ROICA™ are able to offer by joining forces.

"We firmly believe in the new generation of companies oriented towards the creation and supply of valuable products, fully respecting people and the environment, while meeting the performance required by contemporary lifestyles," says Shinichiro Haga, Senior Executive Manager of the ROICA™ Division.

• adidas TERREX athlete Laura Dahlmeier tackles Mont Blanc’s Brouillard Pillar with Thomas and Alexander Huber in the film, United By Summits
• The trio are kitted out in adidas TERREX’s new Techrock Mountaineering range
• The adidas TERREX Techrock collection gives climbers the lightweight technical wear required to defy the elements mountainside

Mountaineering is about reaching personal summits. It’s about showing your mettle, finding your freedom and winning in front of no one but yourself and nature.

It’s a version of success that adidas TERREX athlete Laura Dahlmeier is reacquainting herself with. A multiple Olympic and world champion, the German biathlete is used to the noise of winning in front of huge crowds. Now retired, Laura is reconnecting with the challenges of a sport that first gave her a taste of freedom as a child: climbing.
Laura sets herself a particularly formidable goal in United By Summits. In the film, she is joined by German climbing brothers Thomas and Alexander Huber for an ascent of Mont Blanc’s infamous Brouillard Pillar and the rarely-attempted Bonington Route made famous by British climber Chris Bonington in 1965.

For this, and any other climb, mountaineers require lightweight but rugged technical wear that ensures easy movement while defying the elements mountainside, allowing for complete focus on the rock and ice in front of them.

Introducing the adidas TERREX Techrock Mountaineering range – worn by Laura and the Huber brothers in United By Summits as they climb one of the Alps’ most demanding routes.

Keeping climbers dry is the adidas TERREX Techrock Light Gore-Tex Mountaineering Jacket, a lightweight, packable jacket with breathable Gore-Tex Active 3-layer membrane to repel water. Adjustable hood and cuffs are compatible with helmets and gloves.

For insulation on colder climbs, the adidas TERREX Techrock Year Round Down Jacket locks in warmth with adidas-patented HeatSeal baffle construction and PrimaLoft® Gold insulation in the shoulders and cuffs. Pertex® Diamond Fuse 20 Denier yarn provides resistance to abrasion along with a water-repellent DWR-finished fabric.

For rugged, weather-resistant legwear that keeps climbers moving freely on any ascent, adidas TERREX Techrock Mountaineering Softshell Pants balance comfort and protection. Flexible, wool-backed softshell fabric moves easily while a tough nylon surface protects against abrasion. A soft waistband helps prevent bunching under harnesses for an easy-moving silhouette – essential on those long climbing days.

Kitted out in this new adidas TERREX Techrock Mountaineering range 4,000 metres above sea level, Laura and the Huber brothers achieved their goals together.

The winner of the IMAGINING SUSTAINABLE FASHION competition was announced during a webinar broadcast on March 30 at 4pm attended by Giusy Bettoni, CEO of C.L.A.S.S. Eco Hub, Anna Detheridge, President of Connecting Cultures, Dio Kurazawa, Founding Partner of The Bear Scouts, Stefania Ricci, Director of the Salvatore Ferragamo Museum.
 
Vishal Tolambia, 24, a graduate with an MA in Fashion Futures from the London College of Fashion and in Fashion Design from the National Institute of Fashion Technology India, is a Fashion Sustainability researcher and a multidisciplinary designer. In 2021, Vishal founded the organization Humanity-Centred Designs (HCD) with the aim of transforming "human-centred design into humanity-centred designs through sustainable practices to foster the Fashion Industry."
 
In his communication project, the "Fashion Affair" video proposes a speculative view of fashion dating - derived from dating apps - a tool to effectively evaluate brands and their products, in the form of augmented reality. The consumer is not only informed in real time about the brand and supply chain, but the app also becomes a platform for matching products based on individual sustainability goals and commitments. "Fashion Affair" also won the special social media contest open to the public among the finalists selected by the jury for being the most voted project by Instagram followers on C.L.A.S.S.' profile.
 
Vishal ranked first among the finalists selected by the international jury composed of:
- Anna Detheridge, Founder and President, Connecting Cultures
- Giusy Bettoni, CEO and Founder, C.L.A.S.S.
- Rita Airaghi, Director, Gianfranco Ferré Research Center            
- Paola Arosio, Head of New Brands & Sustainability Projects, Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana (The National Chamber for Italian Fashion)
- Jeanine Ballone, Managing Director, Fashion 4 Development
- Evie Evangelou, Founder and President, Fashion 4 Development
- Chiara Luisi, Sustainability Projects Coordinator, Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana (The National Chamber for Italian Fashion)
- Sara Kozlowski, Director of Education and Sustainable Strategies, Council of Fashion Designers of America
- Dio Kurazawa, Founding Partner, The Bear Scouts
- Renata Molho, journalist and fashion writer, former editor-in-chief of L'Uomo Vogue and editor-at-large of L'Uomo Vogue, Vogue Italia, Casa Vogue
- Stefania Ricci, Director, Salvatore Ferragamo Museum.

I:CO ist eine Partnerschaft mit dem Modekonzern Mango eingegangen und unterstützt das multinationale Unternehmen beim Sammeln und Wiederverwerten von getragenen Textilien und Schuhen. Die Verträge über die Zusammenarbeit wurden im März unterzeichnet. In ihren Filialen ermöglicht Mango seinen Kunden, gebrauchte Textilien und Schuhe in Sammelboxen abzugeben. I:Cos Muttergesellschaft SOEX wird ihnen künftig helfen, die gesammelten Textilien zu sortieren und weiterzuverarbeiten. Dafür werden die aussortierten Textilien und Schuhe von Mango direkt an das Hauptwerk von SOEX geliefert. Weiterhin tragbare Kleidung erhält so einen neuen Besitzer, nicht mehr tragbare Textilien werden recycelt.

Mit dieser Zusammenarbeit ermöglichen I:CO und SOEX dem multinationalen Modekonzern Mango deutliche Fortschritte im Bereich der Kreislaufwirtschaft. „Wir freuen uns auf die neue Zusammenarbeit mit einem einflussreichen Partner wie Mango. Wir sind uns sicher, dass wir gemeinsam zahlreiche Textilien wiederverwerten und so einen wesentlichen Beitrag zu einer nachhaltigeren Textilindustrie leisten können“, sagt der Soex Geschäftsführer Walter J. Thomsen.

Die Zusammenarbeit der beiden Konzerne umfasst eine Sammlung, die über die Grenzen Deutschlands hinausgeht: Auch in internationalen Mango-Filialen in Polen, Osteuropa, der Schweiz und in der Türkei sammelt I:CO gemeinsam mit Mango Alttextilien und Schuhe. Durch die Zusammenarbeit mit Mango fördert I:CO weitere Möglichkeiten für Verbraucher, Kleidung unkompliziert in die Sammlung zu geben. Denn Umfragen zeigen: 85 Prozent der Deutschen wollen, dass ihre Kleidung weitergetragen wird, fast so viele Menschen nutzen die Altkleidersammlung in Deutschland bereits. International fehlt es in der Altkleidersammlung jedoch oft an einer ausgebauten Infrastruktur und der Sammelbereitschaft der Bevölkerung.

Neben der neugeschlossenen Partnerschaft zwischen SOEX und Mango kooperiert SOEX bereits seit längerer Zeit mit weiteren Modeunternehmen wie H&M, um diese bei der Altkleidersammlung in ihren Filialen zu unterstützten und leistet damit einen wichtigen Beitrag, um die Kreislaufwirtschaft in der Branche zu fördern.

ISKO has signed the Dutch Denim Deal for circular denim. The Denim Deal, a public-private initiative, was launched by the Dutch government following the EU Green Deal and the Circular Action Plan and includes agreements to make the denim textile chain more circular. In the deal, more than 40 parties, such as Scotch & Soda, PVH and Soorty, are working together to improve post-consumer textiles in the denim industry and make fiber recycling the new norm. The signatories cover a wide range of manufacturing companies, brands and stores, collectors, sorters, cutters, and weavers.

The main objective is to collectively produce a total of 3 million jeans with (a minimum of 20%) post-consumer recycled cotton (PCR) by the end of 2023. In addition, all parties have agreed that they will work together towards the standard of at least 5% recycled textiles in all denim garments as quickly as possible. The Denim Deal is also an opportunity to set up a 'reverse supply chain' for recycled cotton and create a systemic change to close the denim cycle.

Although the denim industry still has a negative image due to its high carbon footprint, in recent years many good steps have been taken in the field of recycling. But these steps are on a small scale, limiting the overall impact.
"The Dutch Denim Deal fits perfectly into ISKO's circular strategy," says Marc Lensen, ISKO Head of Global Communication. "Our scale and knowledge of sustainable technological solutions will increase the overall impact and accelerate circularity in the denim chain.”

• Revenue Increases to HK$8,316 Million with Net Profit After Tax Surging Significantly
• Recording a Turnaround to HK$381 Million
• Re-Establishes ESPRIT’s Market Leadership

ESPRIT HOLDINGS LIMITED has announced its audited financial annual results for the year ended 31 December 2021, highlighted by a significant increase in both revenue and profit attributable to shareholders of the Company to HK$8,316 million and HK$381 million respectively, in which the profit attributable to shareholders of the Company also recorded a turnaround versus the loss attributable to shareholders of the Company of HK$414 million for the six months ended 31 December 2020. Gross profit margin was 48.6%, 7.0% higher than the Corresponding Period. Please refer to the Company’s results announcement for the Current Year for further details.

Such financial improvement was attributable to various reasons, including (i) the new infrastructure and strategies instituted by the current management team; (ii) improvement in sales with higher gross profit margin; (iii) positive results of efficient cost control measures; (iv) improved inventory management; and (v) growth in E-commerce.

Although revenue in the Current Year was affected by lockdowns in the Company’s major European markets during the first quarter of 2021, and due to increased restrictions on entry requirements into stores during the fourth quarter of 2021, the Group generated revenue via three main channels: E-commerce, wholesale, and owned retail stores. As the ESPRIT brand website and third-party E-commerce partners continued to trade during lockdown, a large portion of the Group’s sales were generated online. This business model allowed it to mitigate some of the negative impacts of the Pandemic in the retail segment. Another driver of growth came from selling fewer discounted products from the Company’s retail business compared to 2020.

The Group has not forgotten the ESPRIT mission and long-standing commitment to sustainability. The Company has continued to work tirelessly towards developing cutting-edge materials that set new standards in terms of environmental sustainability. The Company has formulated and further advanced its ESG strategies to establish ESPRIT as an industry pioneer. Such strategies involve the greater use of sustainable fibers, developing new and innovative product options that support a circular economy, and ensuring environmental awareness is a key message that underpins all of the Group’s projects. To achieve these objectives, the Management has identified four key pillars of growth (Sourcing and Procurement; Marketing and Product; IT, Internet, and E-commerce; and The ESPRIT Brand Story) that are paramount in maintaining the loyalty of existing ESPRIT patrons and attracting new customers.

Looking ahead, the global economy is anticipated to be negatively affected by the lingering effects of the coronavirus pandemic and the conflict in Ukraine. The already unstable logistics industry and disrupted supply chain will likely be further impacted, which in turn will result in higher logistic service costs. Despite the unfavorable global economic outlook, the Group believes that under the leadership of its current management and with the support of dedicated staff members, the Company is on track to ongoing profit growth.

Das Direct-to-Consumer (D2C) Neonyt Lab bietet vom 24. bis 26. Juni 2022 in der Union Halle im Frankfurter Ostend ein vielfältiges Programm für Brancheninsider*innen, Modelabels und Endkonsument*innen. Brands und Besucher*innen haben die Möglichkeit, ihr ganz persönliches Programm modular und individuell für ihre eigenen Bedürfnisse zusammenstellen.

Die Neonyt kehrt im Juni 2022 wieder onsite zurück – in einer neuen Location, mit innovativen Formaten und erstmals offen für Endkonsument*innen. Das Highlight: Die D2C-Modemesse „Greenstyle the store“, die in Kooperation mit der GREENSTYLE veranstaltet wird, und allen Sustainable Fashion-Fans die Türen in die nachhaltige Modewelt öffnet: Von nachhaltigen Kollektionen begeistern lassen und direkt kaufen. Das Neonyt Lab bietet außerdem weitere vielfältige Inhalte für alle Interessierten: Es bringt Einkäufer*innen, Designer*innen, Unternehmen, Brancheninsider*innen und Endkonsument*innen an einem Ort zusammen und lädt zum Vernetzen und voneinander Lernen ein. Teil des Labs ist unter anderem das Neonyt Konferenzformat Fashionsustain, in dem spannende Panels und Diskussionsrunden zum Nachdenken und Perspektivenwechsel anregen. Die Prepeek bietet Content Creators die Möglichkeit, exklusive Einblicke in die sustainable Trends der kommenden Saison zu bekommen. Auch das Thema Textilsiegel und Zertifizierungen werden im Sommer wieder ins Spotlight gerückt. Dabei immer im Fokus: das diesjährige Key Topic der Neonyt – „New Patterns”.

Let’s meet up
Die Sommerausgabe der Neonyt findet nach dem Prinzip „build your own experience“ statt. Brands können sich ihre Teilnahme am Neonyt Lab frei nach eigenem Belieben und individuellen Bedürfnissen zusammenstellen und so für die Besucher*innen ein einmaliges Erlebnis kreieren: als Speaker*innen auf der Fashionsustain-Konferenz, mit praktischen Beispielen im Showcase, beim Networking mit Social Media Professionals auf der Prepeek oder im direkten Endkonsument*innenkontakt und Fashion-Verkauf auf der D2C-Modemesse „Greenstyle the store“. Die D2C-Modemesse, organisiert von der Greenstyle ist im Sommer integrativer Teil der Neonyt. Die Greenstyle ist ein 360 Grad Konzept, das sich mit Fashion Fairs und Konferenzen im Endkonsument*innenbereich in München, Bozen, Amsterdam und Frankfurt sowie im Münchener Store als Accelerator und Netzwerk für nachhaltige und zukunftsweisende Mode etabliert hat.

„Wir können es kaum erwarten, mit unserem Format bei der Neonyt dabei zu sein. Für die Branche ist es ein echter Win-Win, dass sich die Neonyt im Juni 2022 auch für Endverbraucher*innen öffnet und mit innovativen Ideen zu einem Wandel des Konsumverhaltens und der Textilindustrie beitragen wird“, sagt Mirjam Smend, CEO & Founder Greenstyle Munich Fair and Conference. „Uns verbindet eine langjährige Freundschaft – und es wird uns allen guttun, uns endlich wieder vor Ort zu begegnen und auszutauschen. Denn: Zusammen können wir noch mehr bewegen.“