From the Sector

Bemberg™ gears up for Première Vision - February 11th-13th, Paris, France; with a great deal of novelties and a key statement on sustainability: Let’s Make it Circular! That’s why the Japanese brand of regenerated cellulose fibers joins the fair with two booths, one in the yarn-focused sector – Hall 6 C52 6D53 – the other one in the Smart Creation area, the curated district showcasing cutting-edge sustainable innovation for the textile and fashion business. Hall3 S14.

“We simply could not miss out on the Smart Creation Area as sustainability is the founding pillar of our company,” says SHUNSUKE SATO, sales manager of Bemberg™ by Asahi Kasei. “Indeed, the smart fiber is made from a cotton linter which is pre-consumer material, a natural derived source, that doesn’t deplete forestry resources. The strategy beyond our double presence is to highlight our deep commitment to responsible innovation to a larger target of professionals.”

Let’s take it circular! is the motto at the Smart Creation booth. The lifespan of Bemberg™’s regenerated cellulose fiber derived from cotton is fully circular: from the source to manufacturing. The whole sustainable closed-loop process is supported by the LCA study, signed by ICEA and validated by Paolo Masoni. Recyclability is granted by the Global Recycle Standard - GRS certification by the renown Textile Exchange. An influential guarantee that involves the whole production process and supply chain behind the company’s smart yarns. Bemberg™ yarns are entirely biodegradable and ecotoxicity-free – meaning that at the end of their life circle they break down into the environment leaving no trace in terms of toxic substances as attested by the Innovhub-SSI report.

On show at Première Vision some of the most recent collaborations with GRS-certified partners such as FIVEOL, SMI TESSUTI, TESSITURA UBOLDI, INFINITY, SIDONIOS, MATIAS & ARAUJO, TINTEX, IPEKER, EKOTEN, for fashion fabrics as well as PEZZETTI and BRUNELLO & G.CRESPI from lining partners.

The first Bemberg™ partner to present a commercial collection enriched by Velutine™ Evo is the Portuguese Matias & Araújo. With an innovative spirit, dynamism and a determined entrepreneurial spirit, the company is a leading knitwear producer for the textile industry.

In the Hall 6 Bemberg™ displays key commercial items developed by premium brands such as CAALO that is making its mark in the outerwear market with its Sustainably produced Functional-Luxury proposal. For SS20, CAALO utilized Bemberg™ lining because of the sustainability properties and it's unique colour.

CAALO looks to utilize as much eco-friendly and sustainable materials as possible without compromising on design or quality. This Bemberg™ lining was a perfect fit.

Intertextile Shanghai Home Textiles – Autumn Edition will return from 24 – 26 August 2020 at the National Exhibition and Convention Center (Shanghai), organised by Messe Frankfurt (HK) Ltd; the Sub-Council of Textile Industry, CCPIT; and the China Home Textile Association (CHTA). Stepping into its 26th edition, the trade fair will provide exhibitors the perfect opportunity to introduce new products and expand their distribution networks, as well as serving as a source of information and inspiration for professionals in every aspect of the industry.
 
Celebrating its 25th anniversary last August, the Autumn Edition of Intertextile attracted 1,147 exhibitors from 27 countries & regions, as well as 35,390 trade buyers from 117 countries & regions (2018: 104), reflecting the increasing internationalism of Messe Frankfurt’s textile fairs in China, and the growing opportunities for international suppliers to meet a wide range of buyers in Shanghai. The trade fair’s capacity to attract large and diverse crowds has reinforced its status as the leading business platform for the home textile industry in the Asia Pacific region.
 
In the next edition, a large collection of quality Chinese companies, as well as premier overseas brands will once again present the entire spectrum of home and contract textile products including:

• Textile editors
• Whole Home Products
• Windows & Upholstery
• Bedding, Bath, Kitchen & Table
• Carpets & Rugs
• Sun-Protection
• Wallcovering
• Digital Print & Technics
• Fibers, Yarns & Chemicals
• Textile Designs

Opportunities abound in China’s home textiles market
 
“The upcoming Autumn Edition of Intertextile is set to offer suppliers and buyers the best platform to capture new business opportunities, especially as we continue to focus on bringing together more key players from the textiles, interiors, architecture and hospitality sectors in China and internationally,” Ms Wendy Wen, Senior General Manager of Messe Frankfurt (HK) Ltd said.
 
“Over the years, Intertextile has been evolving from a traditional trade fair to an immersive and interactive experience that inspires and engages attendees. Today, the fair is more than a business platform; it also delivers state-of-the-art home trends, valuable networking opportunities, as well as innovative and strategic solutions for brand development through a series of fringe programme events,” Ms Wen further explained.
 
As one of the selected exhibitors featured in the Talks & Tours series at the 2019 fair, Mr Thomas Luys, Sales Manager of LIBECO-LAGAE: “We had quite a diverse range of visitors, including an increase in e-commerce buyers, but also more traditional upholstery fabrics buyers. Our booth was also part of the Talks & Tours, so it was important to tell our story to a diverse range of visitors on this tour.”
 
 
To find out more about this fair, please visit: www.intertextilehome.com.
For more information about Messe Frankfurt textile fairs worldwide, please visit: http://texpertise-network.messefrankfurt.com.

Sustainability is part of SEEK’s internal make-up and has always been part of the team and community experience. Over 80 sustainable brands make up the brand portfolio, including players like Veja, Dedicated and Kings of Indigo. Experts will be sharing their experiences on this market-defining topic as well, with a host of live podcasts, talks and panel discussions, and will be shaping SEEK’s programme of content.
 
BIG PLAYER: the new SEEK Culture
 
SEEK is Europe’s most successful trade show for pop, street and sneaker culture. This is where the key players meet, where the looks of tomorrow are showcased, modelled and retold, where classics are celebrated, authenticity rules the roost and where icons take their positions alongside shooting stars. SEEK is essential participation for anyone looking to curate a modern, youthful and relevant range.

The shift from a niche event to a large trade show is now complete with a new logo and campaign design. SEEK has emerged from its transformation to reveal that its content and visual look are as relevant as ever!  

Together with creative agencies Karl Anders and Haebmau, the SEEK team has been working for weeks on the brand’s new branding. The result: a visual concept with a strong message.

“The handshake is the right imagery and commitment to our stance and that of the SEEK community.”

“SEEK stands for strength and business just as much as for communality and good vibes! ‘Get Along’ articulates a feeling of agreement, of moving forward and getting to grips with things. We all want to shape a positive future for our industry – as partners and by joining forces.”, explains Fashion Director Maren Wiebus.

CREATIVE CONNECTION: Karl Anders and Haebmau
 
The Hamburg-based agency Karl Anders, which was established by Claudia Fischer-Appelt and Lars Kreyenhagen, was commissioned to come up with the creative concept and design language for the logo and campaign.

“With the new look we are entering a new era for SEEK as a brand. Lots of brands have chosen a design using Helvetica in recent years,” says Claudia Fischer-Appelt, Creative Director at Karl Anders. “We are now signalling a clear shift in another direction. Confident, bold and independent. With the logo we are inviting the viewer to play with the linear layout in their head; we are breaking viewing habits, making a statement and revving things up a gear. SEEK, there it is.”
 
The artwork is the result of a process of in-depth debate with the SEEK brand that took place over several weeks both within the team and also with the support of lifestyle agency Haebmau. Workshops, research and analyses ultimately led to a new, strong brand identity. SEEK is focussed on both established and new players and stands for the WE.

“I have known SEEK since it was in its infancy, so to me it was always like a little brother of the large, successful PREMIUM. Quirky and different, always interesting but somehow not quite so imposing,” says Markus Bublitz, Executive Creative Director at Haebmau. “SEEK today is more grown-up, confident and sharper. Thanks to its position in the market, which it has conquered over the years, it no longer needs to please everyone but can afford to be controversial. This can offer space for new, creative ideas.”

SEEK is edgy, clean-cut and unpolished.

We are all about statement design, new classics, denim and sportswear. SEEK is the trade show event for the fashion community. SEEK knows who calls the shots; it boosts sales and is the place for the next generation of decision-makers to get together. Unlike all the others, SEEK is unconventional and the antidote to boring.

• A naturally advanced collection, a cutting-edge coloration technology, and a brand-new collaborative business model.
• TINTEX stands out at PERFORMANCE DAYS, the functional fabric fair for the sourcing in sports, work and corporate wear.
• Performance Days, Munich, November 13th -14th, 2019 –booth C08 / hall C1

The leading jersey manufacturer brings a new holistic and sustainable approach spun from the company’s DNA and woven in the mission to create Naturally Advanced fabrics.

The WEME collection - A/W 20/21
The new statement collection goes beyond intellectual and spiritual individual needs to embrace a communal vision blurring ‘we’ and ‘me’, ‘conscious’ and unconscious’, responsible innovation and creativity. Developed around the concept sub-collections ID, Superego and EGO, the range comes in electric and active tones and combines smart ingredients and processes to drive innovation by harnessing the company’s unique dyeing and finishing expertise.

The new fabrics are made from a mix of new generation fibers that enhance free movement such as REFIBRA™ by Lenzing, Q-NOVA® by Fulgar and the unique GRS certified premium stretch ROICA™ EF.  The smartcel™ powered ID sub-collection is defined by striped structures that simulate flaws on initially smooth and perfected surfaces and provides soothing, anti-inflammatory effects thanks to the inclusion of zinc oxide, provides soothing, anti-inflammatory effects. The “EGO” selection comes in rich purples, calm lilacs and feminine yellows and features natural fibers such as organic wool. The “Superego” is available in unique styles and colours, achieved thanks to Colorzen® and the Naturally Clean® finishing. Together these enhance the natural beauty of cotton and cellulosics eliminating harsh treatments and optimizing clean surfaces with vivid colors, and an exquisitely smooth hand feel. Transformed materials take such as ECOTEC® by Marchi&Fildi take the lead saving up to 77.9% in water compared with regular cottons.

COLORAU®
TINTEX’ cutting edge color technology which received the Sustainable Solution award in the May 2019 edition of Techtextil debuts in Munich. COLORAU®  was created with a Portuguese consortium constituted by premium realities and gives life to responsibly colored fabrics with antimicrobial properties, using natural dyes extracted from different types of natural plants resources that do not use salt in the production.

COLORAU® uses only compounds of natural origin such as thyme, boldo, peppermint, chestnut and gambier in the production of functional and sustainable textiles in a variety of fibers such as cotton, lyocell and wool. An eco-efficient and low temperature surface treatment improves the affinity between the textile substrate and these natural compounds. The technology features a selection of “performing” extracts for appropriate color fastness to light and washing as well as color durability and antimicrobial functionality.

CO.LAB

TINTEX is proud to announce CO.LAB, a smart and collaborative business model and a totally new supply chain developed in coordination and with the support of C.L.A.S.S.. The first sustainable and PETA-Approved collections are 100% traceable without compromising on quality and style. As co-leader and founding actor, TINTEX has invited Becri, Confetil and Pedrosa & Rodrigues, 3 leading companies, each producing specialized garment styles. The new collections are:

1. The ECOPERFORMER by TINTEX with Confetil collection meets the values of millennials and generation Z consumers. Sustainable, multitasking, gender neutral and designed to fit contemporary urban lifestyle. The collection comprises modern soft sports garment with fully transparent innovation values. The range flexes its muscles with the best sustainable and high-performative materials for comfort, ease and style. All selected fabrics are PeTA APPROVED VEGAN. Designed to win.
2. ‘LEGACY H20’ by TINTEX with Becri is 100% traceable and focuses on responsible water-management.
3. ‘SENSING SMARTS’ by TINTEX with Pedrosa & Rodrigues, a next-to-skin soft and sensual range of materials enhancing wellbeing and comfort while harnessing an innovative and responsible way of using chemical products for a greener and safest future.

Fortum, together with the sustainable fibre technology company Spinnova have today introduced the first prototype product born out of their joint development of using wheat straw in the production of highly sustainable textile fibre.

Fortum and Spinnova are showcasing the world’s first clothing made from agricultural waste, namely wheat straw, at the Textile Exchange Sustainability Conference in Vancouver, during 15-17 October. The showpieces include a knitted t-shirt, as well as a jacket and skirt made of a woven fabric on organic cotton warp.

The prototype material is unique also due to its extremely low environmental impact from raw material extraction, processing and manufacture, verified by life-cycle analysis (LCA).

“We are very excited to present this revolutionary textile. Today, wheat straw is mostly discarded or even burned in the fields. As it can now be used in numerous textile applications, this opens up huge possibilities globally. This cooperation is a tangible step towards Fortum’s strategy to build options for significant new businesses that improve resource efficiency and provide smart solutions for a cleaner world. We would like to invite more key industry players to join us in this journey,” says Heli Antila, VP, Biobased solutions at Fortum.

“We are all very proud of this amazing collaborative accomplishment! This was a very fast journey from the first trials to real, appealing fabric materials. This shows that wheat straw-based fibre is well on its way to being a drop-in product of the most sustainable kind,” says Spinnova’s CEO Janne Poranen.

Artisan craft, experience and high eco-technological specialization: the great tradition of fabrics for shirts which styles the future.

Search for quality, the ability to interpret elegance and a product inspired by tradition, though always trendy: these are the distinctive traits which define the vocation of Canclini 1925, a point of reference worldwide for shirt fabric manufacturing. This expertise is implemented through dynamic creativity and 100% Made in Italy artisan  craft. These are the foundations which make the history and capability of Canclini 1925 unique, as standard bearer for everlasting style.

All this results from an authentic family tradition which, for three generations, has been the driving force of the company, shaping each collection. This passion is at the service of tireless search in terms of style and technology which underlies the whole Canclini 1925 innovative approach. The goal is to offer, through its fabrics, an inimitable experience, “creating wellbeing” and emotion through touch alone, respecting the environment and humans.

Founded in 1925, Canclini has always been a company able to combine extraordinary creativity and product care, established as a silk factory in the Como region. This tradition was renewed in the 1960s with the shift to the cotton sector, aiming more and more at customer service, developing a partnership and trust relation. Working with Canclini 1925 means reaching into the tradition of a family which has always been passionate about its work, dynamic, creative and focused on continuous innovation.

These are distinctive and qualifying elements in the Canclini 1925 approach. An approach which, in line with the research and development pathway on which the company has always invested substantial resources, also involves considerable attention the topic of environmental and social accountability. This commitment is confirmed by numerous and prestigious certifications in the company portfolio, starting from the careful selection of raw materials to its social commitment. More specifically, Canclini 1925 has been awarded the GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standard), SUPIMA COTTON (the Pima “Gossypium Barbadense” cotton, classified as Extra-long Staple) certifications, following the Standard 100 by OECO-TEX®, BCI (Better Cotton Initiative) and GRS (Global Recycle Standard). A comprehensive range of tools which, combined with its in-house know-how and expertise capital, enhances the portfolio of Canclini 1925 branded innovations.

This accountability approach also encompasses the social area with the association “Un sorriso in più” (“One extra smile”). Founded and managed by the company, it is a non-profit organisation engaged in projects which include assistance in nursing homes to elderly persons without family ties, as well as in the support to children living difficult and disadvantaged family situations, focusing its activity on “human life quality”. The uniqueness generated by this meeting between tradition and innovation is the driving force behind corporate research, as well as the truly distinctive reason for its style and technology development. The high-performance looms and technologies used make the company strong and flexible enough for contemporary market requirements. The trademark passion of the Canclini family completes the picture within which the company operates, true to an approach which is at the same time artisan and high-tech, a point of reference in Italy and worldwide.

Thanks to its substantial manufacturing capacity, Canclini today is present on all of the most influential shirt markets worldwide, and – with its new Blue 1925 line - also in the denim world. In this way the company has succeeded in positioning itself among major players in textile manufacturing, authentically Italian because of its farsighted  business vision, care for details and production flexibility. It is the approach which – over the years - has allowed the group to take over important enterprises in the sector, for example Hausmann-Moos and Profilo Tessile, Maglificio Mida and Grandi & Rubinelli.
According to Simone Canclini, CEO of Canclini 1925: “What characterises the Canclini 1925 spirit is first and foremost genuine passion driven by our inspiring principles: quality, style and service. These elements have allowed us to become and remain a point of reference worldwide, to rediscover the everyday – basic and exciting – emotion of choosing a special shirt”.

Miles Johnson and Creative Room™ designed a capsule collection “Light on the Land”, for men and women to showcase ISKO™’s R- TWO™ program.

As the world’s leading ingredient denim brand, ISKO™ is at the forefront of the sustainable and responsible fashion movement. ISKO™, who loves to partner with likeminded designers, brands and retailers in the  industry that have a passion for Responsible Innovation™, is proud to announce its partnership with renowned British fashion designer Miles Johnson. Together they have created a visionary collection that will be launched at a private showing event on September 12th, at the Fremin Gallery in New York City.

For those who love denim and cherish the planet, this partnership is a perfect match as  Miles is known for prioritizing sustainability and responsibility in his work. Miles has held leadership positions such as Design Director at Levi Strauss & Co. and Senior Creative Director of Product Design and Development at Patagonia, Inc., where he served as a pioneer in creating clothing using sustainably sourced materials. For this capsule collection, Miles worked side by side with ISKO™’s Research & Development team utilizing the ISKO R-TWO™ program which combines a mix of reused and recycled materials. The reused cotton comes from ISKO™’s own production loss, which they continuously track and trace. This has the CCS (Content Claim Standard) certification. They combine this reused cotton with recycled polyester derived from PET bottles. Depending on the content, fabrics can have the RCS (Recycled Claim Standard) certification or GRS (Global Recycled Standard) certification.

The creative direction for the collection takes form with “Light on the Land” and the whole collection is made using low impact materials and responsible finishing techniques. Miles and the ISKO™ team carefully crafted 34 designs at the Creative Room™ in Italy. The styles incorporate responsible design principles which include:

• Minimal washing;
• Removable trims made of eco-metal;
• Natural based buttons and labels;
• Green bar tacks;
• Embroidered rivets.

Environmental messages are embroidered on six of the pieces, by the artist Giulio Miglietta. The garments are built to last and the more you wear these pieces, the more beautiful they become.

The new advertising campaign for the Fall/Winter 2019 season exalts the most authentic spirit of the Pinko woman, a curious creature who plays with her spontaneous femininity and sensuality to give a rock ‘n roll and metropolitan vibe to the everyday life.

An iconic location, filled with magic and fascination, serves as the background of the images, vibrating with energy and determination, developed by an artistic team including photographers Mert Alas & Marcus Piggott, stylist Vanessa Reid and creative director Riccardo Ruini. Hanging between the deep blue of the London sky and the dark waters of the Thames, the Lightship 93, the wonderful fruit of attentive naval recovery and restoration works, with its bold red silhouette becomes the ideal stage for the audacious and strong femininity of the Pinko woman, embodied by the modern, fresh beauty of American model Madison Headrick.

She moves with confidence and a certain frisky attitude among the ship’s red sheets wearing some of the most iconic pieces of the Pinko Fall/Winter 2019 collection. Revealing a seductive silhouette, a suit combines pinstriped Lurex pants with a sartorial blazer showing the waisted shape exalted by a maxi bow, while the utilitarian vibe of a black washed denim ensemble is enriched by the glamorous touch of a logo belt and of the Mini Love bags peppered by metallic accents. Sparkling reflections also steal the spotlight on the tops and skirts embellished with mirror mosaics and reach the climax on the coat where bouclé wool is paired with a metallic coated fabric, which makes the Pinko woman shine bright into the darkest night.

Lookbook: LINK

Following its successful beginnings in summer 2018 and its expansion in January 2019, TRADE UNION will be developed yet further as a dedicated space for selected brands and agencies.
 
“TRADE UNION is very close to our hearts,” explains SEEK Director Maren Wiebus. “Being able to work together to fill a space with life, interact with customers and products, and tell authentic stories in a laid-back, relaxing atmosphere – this open-minded, collaborative approach is ultra-modern and of the minute in its simplicity. We are all in the same big boat and can consider ourselves lucky that colleagues and customers are and have become friends. Together, we can achieve a lot this way.”

It has always been integral to SEEK’s DNA to continually work with partners and friends to develop new concepts that are perfectly suited to the demands of the market. The carefully curated setting of TRADE UNION, featuring brands such as Eat Dust, Porter-Yoshida & Co and Knickerbocker, is especially popular with the top buyers.
 
Felix Engelmann has supported the concept right from the off through his marketing agency Haptiques, and is full of passion and on board again with the concept this season.
“The TRADE UNION concept really came off for us in January. We worked well with our partners; the vibe was positive and nicely relaxed. I’m expecting the atmosphere in the summer to be just as fantastic and I’m sure it’ll be a good occasion with friends, partners and employees.”
 
In July, buyers can look forward to an expanded portfolio including Red Wing Shoes, a brand from Minnesota. European Marketing Manager Rik van Dijk comments:
“We can't wait to attend the inspiring setting, because our buyers really feel at home there. We need a location where you can take a step back, find a quiet place to sit and talk to everyone. The extra space at the TRADE UNION guarantees this. We’ve only heard good things from friendly brands and we’re really looking forward to the trade show.”

On March 7th, European Commissioner on the Internal Market, Industry, Entrepreneurship and Small and Medium-Sized Enterprises has been welcomed in Prato by the mayor Matteo Bittoni and by the Councilor for Productive Activities Daniela Toccafondi, together with the economic categories for a meeting organized by the Department of Economic Development with reference to the Fashion System.

By the end of the meeting, the only company visit planned has followed, and brought to the Manteco headquarter. Manteco is a firm leader in the production of wool and recycled fabrics since 1943.  Today led by Matteo and Marco Mantellassi, Manteco is able to value territory, sharing economy, sustainability, internationalization and the use of renewable energies – not only as an investment policy but also as a distinctive element for the identification of the company as an international reference point for the fashion textile sector.

The company visit was attended by European Commissioner Elzbieta Bienkowska, Justina Morek, member of the Commissioner's Cabinet, Beatrice Covassi, director of the Representation of the European Commission in Rome, Slawomir Tokarski, director for advanced and innovative manufacturing in the general direction of the internal market and European Commission industry, MEP Hon. Nicola Danti, dr. Alberto Biginelli, Councilor Daniela Toccafondi; The Mayor of Prato Matteo Bittoni, the Mayor of the Municipality of Montemurlo, Mauro Lorenzini.

The key topic of the meeting has been the circular economy  – that is to consider very close to Manteco – along with some others explored such as the value of Made in Italy, the importance of a responsible approach to reuse and the need for a traceability system. Noteworthy the visit to the Manteco Archive, during which the focus has been on raw materials, with reference to the tradition and experience that today are perfectly combined with the strong innovative drive and creativity. Upon request of the European Commissioner, the corporate approach with a view to circular economy, km0 production system and how it fits into the productive district were also dealt with.
 
«I visited a textile company that recycles or reuses waste materials to produce wool of the highest quality: this is an excellent example of circular economy. The circular economy is an extremely interesting subject everywhere in Europe, because we are leaders in sustainability, and we want our children and ourselves to be able to live in a country that is livable in the future, so that's why it is worthwhile to show stories in Europe of success like this, which is a good practice that we are putting into practice, starting with the big industries and the energy-intensive ones » - Elzbieta Bienkowska -