From the Sector

Members of the British Textile Machinery Association (BTMA) can look back on 2025 as a year marked by notable technological advances and continued progress in global trade, despite an uncertain and volatile market.

“Our members have been very active over the past 12 months and this has resulted in new technologies for the production of technical fibres and fabrics, the introduction of AI and machine learning into process control systems and significant advances in materials testing,” says BTMA CEO Jason Kent. “There’s real excitement about what can be achieved in 2026 as we look ahead to upcoming exhibitions such as JEC Composites in Paris in March and Techtextil in Frankfurt in April.”

Composites momentum
Cygnet Texkimp, for example, has been nominated for a 2026 JEC Innovation Award for its collaboration with McLaren Automotive on the ART rapid tape-deposition system. Capable of depositing dry fibre tapes at up to 2.5 metres per second with exceptional precision, ART reduces scrap, shortens cycle times and delivers structural improvements already being realised across McLaren’s composite-intensive vehicle platforms.

Cygnet is the world’s largest independent manufacturer of prepreg production machinery, alongside a broad portfolio of handling and converting systems for the composites industry. 

In addition, the company is licensed to design and build the DEECOM® composite recycling system developed by fellow BTMA member Longworth Sustainable Recycling Technologies. DEECOM® is a zero-emission, low-carbon pressolysis solution that uses pressure and steam to reclaim fibres and resin polymers from production waste and end-of-life composites.

Other BTMA members supporting the composites sector include Emerson & Renwick, which applies deep expertise in print, forming, vacuum and coating technologies to carbon fibre processing, while Airbond is a pioneer in pneumatic yarn splicing for high-value carbon and aramid fibres. Slack & Parr meanwhile supplies high-accuracy gear metering pumps across the manmade fibre market, where they process a wide range of polymers and fibres with uniformity and consistency.

Gel spinning
Further resource savings in high-end fibre processing have been realised by Fibre Extrusion Technology through the introduction of a new process for manufacturing ultra-high molecular weight polyethylene (UHMWPE). The company’s patented solvent extraction system exploits supercritical carbon dioxide. 

“Current UHMWPE systems are huge in scale and extremely complex,” says FET R&D Manager Jonny Hunter. “That makes the supply chain inflexible and limits new product development. These disadvantages have been addressed in our new FET-500 series lab and small-scale gel spinning system.”

Quality assurance
Alongside materials innovation, BTMA members are also reshaping quality assurance via digitalisation and data-driven manufacturing. Shelton Vision has significantly advanced automated fabric inspection with the latest generation of its WebSpector system. Using patent-pending image processing techniques, WebSpector now enables reliable real-time defect detection on complex patterned fabrics, including those subject to distortion, shear or stretch during processing.

Building on its leadership in plain fabric inspection, the Shelton system now adapts to intricate designs such as camouflage and delivers clean, stable images that allow full fault detection at high running speeds. While automotive interiors and one-piece woven airbags remain key applications, WebSpector systems are increasingly being supplied to producers of performance wear, fashion, denim, outdoor upholstery, mattress ticking, window dressings and even carbon fibre composites.

Continuous colour
A comparable shift from intermittent checks to continuous monitoring is taking place in colour management through the work of C-Tex. Traditionally reliant on periodic swatches, mills can now apply laboratory-level colour measurement directly in production. 

“What we are doing is taking a lab capability and putting it into production,” says Managing Director Rob Ricketts. Working with Shelton, C-Tex has combined inline defect detection with continuous colour variation analysis, enabling both parameters to be assessed simultaneously.

Importantly, this data is now shared across supply chains. When fabrics reach garment, automotive or furniture manufacturers, downstream users know exactly what they are receiving and whether it meets their requirements. 

“This visibility is a big breakthrough,” says Ricketts. “It’s well established in automotive, but now it’s coming to textiles too.”

Intuitive testing
Advanced testing remains another cornerstone of BTMA innovation. James Heal has long supplied advanced textile testing systems and its latest Performance Testing collection focuses on speed, simplicity and intuitive operation for parameters such as airflow and water resiliency. Water repellency testing has similarly been improved with the TruRain system which dramatically reduces wastewater and energy consumption.

During 2025, the company also introduced the new Martindale Motion.
The new nine-station instrument with individual lifting heads now offers the flexibility to run each station independently for carrying out different textile tests simultaneously. Once set up, the Martindale Motion can be left running with the sample holders automatically lifting at the required evaluation points, freeing up the operator’s time to do other work without the need to return until the abrasion or pilling test is fully completed, including overnight.

Colour accuracy is addressed by the VeriVide DigiEye system which provides non-contact colour measurement and digital imaging, enabling objective data capture and rapid sharing across organisations. Recent developments include 100% LED illumination, integrated dust filtration, software-controlled lighting geometry and automated image capture, improving both precision and efficiency.

Tactility challenge
The tactile sensation experienced when touching and manipulating fabric is meanwhile a critical aspect of textile evaluation, but to date has been very subjective. One of the biggest challenges faced by designers and manufacturers is in describing and sharing information about fabric aesthetics before manufacturing, or without the costly and time-consuming process of transporting physical samples.

These limitations are being overcome with the new Sentire fabric handle tester from Roaches International.

“No two people will describe how a fabric feels in the same way and the lack of a common language to describe fabric tactility poses communication challenges across the complex global fashion and textile supply chain,” says Roaches International MD Sean O’Neill. “The Sentire has been developed to allow our customers to objectively measure qualities such as softness, smoothness, drape and stiffness and market response during 2025 has been extremely positive.”

Convergence
Bringing these developments together, Jason Kent sees a clear strategic direction emerging. 

“Across the BTMA we’re seeing a convergence of advanced machinery, intelligent software and rigorous testing,” he says. “Our members are responding to today’s challenges around efficiency, sustainability and quality, while laying the foundations for a more transparent, data-driven and resilient textile manufacturing sector. Despite market uncertainty, there is genuine confidence about what lies ahead for British textile machinery and its global customers.”

A quiet revolution in church restoration
Across Europe’s historic skylines, the silhouettes of medieval towers and Baroque spires have stood for centuries, but the fabric that keeps them watertight has rarely lasted more than a generation or two. Today, architects and conservationists face the delicate task of renewing these protective layers without altering the appearance or breathability of ancient structures. In this context, nonwoven fabrics have quietly become one of the most transformative materials in restoration behind the scenes of heritage roofs.

Traditional roofing on churches was never designed as a sealed envelope. Slate, tile and lead coverings were laid over open rafters or timber boards, relying on ventilation and sheer mass to manage moisture. When such buildings are re-roofed under contemporary conservation standards, contractors must reconcile modern performance expectations – airtightness, resistance to driving rain, and compliance with safety regulations – with the need to preserve original construction logic. This is where engineered nonwovens, with their combination of vapour permeability and water resistance, provide an elegant solution.

Invisible defence
A nonwoven underlay acts as a secondary shield beneath the outer covering, shedding any wind-driven rain that penetrates between slates while still allowing moisture from within to diffuse outwards. Its fibrous matrix creates a microscopic labyrinth of pores that block liquid water but remain open to water vapour, so that timber structures can continue to breathe much as they always have. The result is an invisible line of defence that does not interfere with the historic envelope’s ability to regulate humidity naturally.

In practical terms, the benefits are more than theoretical. Many heritage sites must remain open during works or lie exposed for long periods while leadwork and masonry are repaired. A strong, lightweight nonwoven can be laid in a day over newly stripped sections, immediately restoring weather protection and allowing carpenters and masons to proceed without interruption. On complex church roofs – often steeply pitched, ornamented with dormers and difficult to scaffold – this ability to secure a weathertight covering has proved invaluable. It reduces the need for daily tarpaulin handling, cuts labour costs and limits the risk of water ingress that might damage ancient ceilings or murals below.

Microporosity
The conservation world has traditionally been wary of modern membranes, and rightly so. Earlier generations of bituminous or plasticised underlays created sealed cavities that trapped condensation, leading to timber decay and corrosion. Nonwovens differ in that they rely on microporous structures rather than applied coatings for their performance. Because they are made from mechanically bonded fibres rather than laminated films, they remain vapour-open by design. In the language of building physics, they have “low vapour resistance yet high water holdout” – two qualities rarely achieved together in earlier materials.

Their structural behaviour also suits the irregular geometry of historic carpentry. Whereas stiff plastic sheets can tear over uneven boarding or sharp ridges, nonwovens drape naturally around contours and resist puncture. They are also quiet under wind load, which is an overlooked comfort factor when a centuries-old tower stands in a residential quarter, and they age more gracefully than brittle films. In a craft context, this flexibility matters as much as technical data – restorers appreciate a material that behaves predictably under hand tools, that can be cut cleanly and that adheres reliably with standard tapes or battens.

Economy of disturbance
From a sustainability perspective, nonwovens also align with the ethos of minimal intervention. They are light to transport, require little energy to manufacture and can often be installed without altering existing timberwork. Because they extend the lifespan of expensive outer coverings, they reduce the frequency of disruptive roof replacements and in long-term stewardship terms, that economy of disturbance is as important as any embodied carbon metric.

Projects across Europe illustrate how seamlessly nonwovens have entered the conservation vocabulary. In medieval churches where roof spaces are inaccessible, their use has allowed designers to maintain the unventilated build-ups of the original fabric while still meeting moisture-control criteria. In Baroque structures with intricate domes, their thin profile helps maintain sightlines at eaves and cornices without introducing visible ventilation slots. Even in smaller rural chapels, they provide an insurance layer beneath reused or weathered slates, reducing the risk of localised leaks that might otherwise threaten timber vaulting or plaster ceilings.

Another virtue, often underestimated, lies in their role during construction sequencing. Because nonwovens can serve as both temporary and permanent weather protection, they simplify project logistics. Once laid, they remain in place through the entire build, so there is no wasted material or duplicated effort. In many restorations, this flexibility has shortened programme durations and reduced the environmental impact associated with single-use coverings.

Detailing
Nonwovens also lend themselves to hybrid detailing. In some restorations, they are combined with traditional sarking boards and lime-based insulation systems, maintaining a breathable overall assembly. In others, they form part of modern warm-roof solutions under lead or copper sheeting, where their stability under heat and UV exposure becomes a key advantage. Their neutrality makes them compatible with almost any heritage-appropriate finish.

A challenge lies not in proving the performance of nonwovens but in ensuring they are specified sensitively. Every church roof tells a different story – some rely on massive oak frames that demand free airflow, others contain fragile painted timbers or medieval tiles that call for careful moisture control. 

A responsible designer must therefore balance the convenience of modern materials with a deep understanding of how historic buildings breathe and move. 

When chosen wisely, a nonwoven underlay can protect centuries of craftsmanship without ever announcing its presence.

The 10th edition of Techtextil India 2025 concluded recently at the Bombay Exhibition Centre, Mumbai, with strong buyer turnout, primarily from Western India, reaching 9144 visitors across 235 Indian cities and 45 countries. Over three days, the trade fair brought together leading domestic and international brands, technology providers, institutional buyers and policymakers, reinforcing India’s ambition to emerge as a global hub for value-added technical textiles. The show hosted 216 exhibitors, featuring over 300 brands and showcased cutting-edge solutions across 12 application areas, keeping the show floor busy throughout the three days. 

As a key knowledge and sourcing platform, the fair drew decision makers from sectors such as mobility, healthcare, construction, filtration, protection and sportswear, helping bridge the gap between fibre producers, converters, brand owners and end users. Strategic support from leading industry associations and state textile departments further amplified the show’s role in driving investment and collaboration in India’s technical textiles ecosystem.

Guest of Honour, Honourable Smt R Lalitha, IAS, Director of Textiles, Directorate of Textiles, Government of Tamil Nadu, shared: “Techtextil India 2025 weaves together leading innovators, policymakers and companies to frame appropriate policies for the growing industry. I believe that man-made fibres is the sunrise sector of the future. Concepts like sustainability and circularity will give rise to better technology that could help speed up research and development in India.”

Echoing the government’s thrust on sustainability, conference sessions and special features at Techtextil India 2025 spotlighted topics such as circular supply chains, advanced recycling, bio-based materials and resource-efficient manufacturing. These discussions aligned with India’s broader vision to boost textile and apparel exports through high-value, environmentally responsible products and technologies.

For fibre and material innovators, Techtextil India 2025 served as a high-quality business and feedback platform. Mr Shyamlal Patnaik, Joint President – Global Head Speciality Business at Birla Cellulose believed: “Techtextil India is a great platform to interact with our customers. It helps us understand customer requirements, connecting us globally and strengthening our presence domestically. It also helps us to showcase our new products before genuine buyers.” 

On the first day of Techtextil India, Brawntex Industries Pvt Ltd announced its partnership with Kurabo Industries Ltd, a Japanese brand known for its fire-retardant fabrics. Sharing details about the new partnership and the overall expo experience, Mr Nitesh Mittal, Founder & CEO, Brawntex Industries Pvt Ltd said: “We will be representing Kurabo in India for military and industrial workwear such as oil & gas, iron & steel. We have been participating in Techtextil India for the past 7 editions. The show has been amazing as the crowd here is targeting the business needs and the footfall has been great. We could meet our partners, customers and some new ones as well. I can summarise it by saying the expo has been incredible.”

Another exhibitor, part of the Germany Pavilion, Mr Umashankar Mahapatra, Managing Director, Pulcra Chemicals, displayed sustainable chemicals for textile processing, speciality additives for man-made fibre and natural fibre industry. He stated: “This was a really effective show for us as we could connect with customers who are willing to invest in the technical textile industry. We received enquiries from the traditional market of Surat who are looking to venture into the technical textile sector. For any new business to start, the show offers right raw material – fibre, machinery and speciality chemicals. It is a very effective show that is connecting the dots.” 

Product launches and demonstrations spanned high-performance fibres, speciality yarns, functional fabrics, nonwoven solutions, coating and finishing technologies, testing equipment and process automation, reflecting the industry’s rapid move toward value-added, engineered textiles. Many exhibitors used the platform to unveil India-specific solutions tailored to mobility, infrastructure, medical, hygiene and protective applications.

Innovative products such as special fabrics for firefighter suits, crop covers, vehicle seats and airbags, bags, woven sacks/bags, parachute and clothing for special needs like defence and steel industry. Besides these, innovation in knitting technology based on various applications also drew visitor interest. 

The show had a dedicated Sporttech Pavilion in a collaboration with Concepts N Strategies. It delivered three power-packed panel discussions that drew exceptionally high footfall and dynamic participation from global buyers, sourcing leaders, and performance-textile innovators and highlighted India’s accelerating shift toward premium, scalable activewear manufacturing.

Similarly, the Indian Technical Textile Association (ITTA) powered conference surfaced advanced solutions for crop protection, coastal protection wear, the use of natural fibres with smart materials, and reinforcing better utility. Another conference in collaboration with the Society of Plastics Engineers (SPE) also held intriguing discussions on establishing circular supply chains with key topics such as PET waste to yarn, AI-based waste sorting, recycling technologies, automation and traceability of waste value chain. 

The show not only showcased advances across various categories in the world of technical textiles but also served as a platform that displayed technical textiles manufactured utilising waste, upcycling of waste into yarn, post-consumer waste for yarns and fabrics, lifestyle products from waste and more. A visitor, Ms Samidha Mayee, Manager-Brand Marketing & Sales Planning, Archroma, explaining the diverse range of products at Techtextil India said: “Techtextil India is a vast show drawing huge crowd and is an all-inclusive and comprehensive exhibition. I was happy to see everything right from the fibre, yarns, fabrics, manufacturing, processing and even the recycling of the polyester fibres.”

Unveiling the visitor experience, Mr Ashish Arya, Sales and Marketing Leader-Medtech, Thermaissance described: “It was a memorable experience for me. I have learnt how the entire processing, manufacturing and other capabilities are being employed for fabric making, especially the recycling process. The best part was the innovative products being displayed and the rapid pace of new product development. The entire setup of the event was good, including the ambience and footfall.” 

The next edition of Techtextil India will continue to build on this momentum, offering a powerful marketplace and knowledge forum for stakeholders across the value chain.

Under the banner “Texpertise Focus AI”, Messe Frankfurt will place a strong emphasis on Artificial Intelligence (AI) across its international textile and apparel trade fairs from 2026 onwards, setting a future-shaping signal for the industry. The initiative highlights the responsible use of AI along the entire textile value chain, from fibre production to the point of sale. The programme will launch at Heimtextil in Frankfurt in January 2026.

The textile and apparel industry is undergoing significant transformation: artificial intelligence is reshaping workflows, enabling new business models and offering solutions for sustainability, efficient value chains and the sector’s skills shortage. Commercial market analyses estimate the global market for AI in the textile industry to reach around USD 21 billion by 2033, roughly ten times the 2023 figure. According to Eurostat, 13.5 percent of European industrial companies were already using AI in 2024, including many businesses in the textile sector. Under the communication umbrella “Texpertise Focus AI”, Messe Frankfurt will showcase exhibitor applications and content formats relating to artificial intelligence at its international textile and apparel events from 2026 onwards.
 
Artificial Intelligence as a Key Focus 
From 2026, Texpertise Focus AI will further enhance the visibility and accessibility of AI-related topics at Messe Frankfurt’s textile trade fairs. This includes curated content formats such as panel discussions, guided tours and live demonstrations featuring international industry experts. In addition, many exhibiting companies will present AI-related solutions.
 
The initiative will commence at Heimtextil from 13 to 16 January 2026 in Frankfurt am Main. AI will feature across numerous programme items, searchable online under “Texpertise Focus AI”. On Wednesday, 14 January at 3 p.m., internationally renowned thought leader in AI for design, Tim Fu, will join the Architonic Live Talk. Under the title “Woven intelligence: designing spaces in the era of AI”, Fu will discuss how artificial intelligence can support meaningful collaboration between architecture and interior design to create spaces that connect craft with computational technology. Messe Frankfurt will roll out the initiative across its textile trade fairs worldwide. Local characteristics and market-specific challenges will be integrated into the concept to ensure relevance.

Artificial Potential for the Value Chain, Sustainability and Workforce Development 
AI is transforming the textile value chain from fibre production to the point of sale and offers potential for greater efficiency, higher quality and improved resilience. In raw-material sourcing, AI systems support cultivation, harvesting and recycling through intelligent analytics and sorting technologies. In design and development, AI tools accelerate creative processes and simulate material properties, a concept reflected, for example, in the immersive installation “among all” by Patricia Urquiola at Heimtextil 2026. Production and logistics processes can also be optimised, waste reduced and supply chains made more transparent.
 
Artificial intelligence is also driving the twin transformation – the convergence of digitalisation and sustainability. Around 116 million tonnes of textile fibres are produced annually worldwide, yet only one percent of post-consumer textile waste is recycled[3]. With AI, companies can conserve resources and reduce waste. AI-based design and forecasting models help prevent overproduction, while life-cycle analyses enable environmentally conscious sourcing. Image-recognition systems sort used textiles, laying the foundation for a true circular economy. The entire spectrum of textile processing technologies will be showcased at Texprocess from 21 to 24 April 2026 in Frankfurt am Main.
 
In the workplace, AI is creating new job profiles and reshaping existing ones, in areas such as data analytics, digital design and process control. It also has the potential to ease labour shortages: according to the German Institute of Textile Technology (ITA) at RWTH Aachen University, up to 70 percent of standardised production tasks could be automated. AI can also support recruitment by enabling targeted identification and selection of qualified professionals.

Raccoon Media Group, organisers of ISPO the world’s most influential trade event for the sporting goods, outdoor and winter sports industries, confirms its commitment to ensuring an enduring impact by joining the European Outdoor Conservation Association (EOCA) as a Sustaining Member and revealing more details of the newly established ISPO Impact Fund.

Recognising that sustainability is non-negotiable, these announcements underscore ISPO’s long-term dedication to environmental responsibility, industry stewardship and collaborative action across the global outdoor community.

Tracy Bebbington, Managing Director, ISPO at Raccoon Media Group, said; “As ISPO enters a new era under new management and prepares for its next chapter in Amsterdam, it is essential that sustainability sits at the heart of everything we do. Joining EOCA and launching the ISPO Impact Fund reflect our belief in collective action and our responsibility to drive direct and meaningful change. We’re not just advocating for change; we are committed to making it happen. Not only that, we have appointed an external agency to closely analyse the carbon footprint of the event itself and we will make a solid commitment to being transparent about the footprint and, from day one, actively take steps to reduce it.”

“Respecting and safeguarding the natural environments in which we play “
ISPO is proud to announce its formal commitment as both a member and Sustaining Member of the European Outdoor Conservation Association (EOCA).  By becoming a Sustaining Member, ISPO will provide ongoing funding and strategic support to EOCA’s mission to conserve and restore wild places, support biodiversity, and enable outdoor participation that respects and safeguards nature. The partnership further aligns ISPO’s environmental values with those championed by brands, retailers and industry associations across the sector.

Dan Yates, Executive Director of EOCA, said: “We are delighted to welcome ISPO, and the newly expanded team at Raccoon Media Group, as a member, and importantly, a Sustaining Member of EOCA. Their commitment sends a powerful message: that major industry platforms must not only showcase innovation but actively support the landscapes and ecosystems that inspire it. ISPO’s involvement will allow us to reach more organisations, fund more conservation projects, and amplify the urgency of protecting the wild places the outdoor community depends on.”

The €1 million ISPO Impact Fund 
As part of their long-term commitment to supporting positive change, ISPO is investing one million euros into a new charitable organisation, the ISPO Impact Fund. The fund will support grassroots, charitable and non-profit initiatives that originate within the sports, outdoor and winter sports communities, or that have a direct and meaningful connection to these sectors.

The ISPO Impact Fund has been established as an independent organisation to ensure transparency, structure and the highest levels of governance expected of grant awarding bodies. The three founding trustees, Hannah Lewis, Finance Director at Raccoon Media Group, Andrew Denton, CEO at the Outdoor Industries Association, and Mark Held, founding Secretary General of the European Outdoor Group are responsible for shaping the ISPO Impact Fund to ensure high standards of fairness, transparency and responsibility.

The Impact Fund will focus on three core areas:

• Nature Conservation & Environmental Stewardship - Supporting projects that protect biodiversity, restore natural environments, and reduce the environmental impact of sport and outdoor recreation.
• Equitable Access & Participation - Enabling more people - regardless of gender, ethnicity, ability, income, or background to access and enjoy sport, winter sports and outdoor recreation. 
• Fair, Ethical & Responsible Supply Chains - Investing in initiatives that improve the welfare of workers throughout the supply chain and strengthen the processes through which sport and outdoor products are made, marketed and sold.

An independent advisory panel of industry experts and community representatives is currently being recruited to oversee the allocation of the €1 million fund, assessing all applications, reviewing their potential impact, and awarding grants based on clear and transparent criteria.

The team are actively recruiting members of this panel and welcome applications from the Sports, Outdoor and Winter sports industries. To apply, please contact hello@isposportsbusinessevents.com

“Our advisory panel will help ensure that the funding is fairly and appropriately allocated across projects which get more people active, protect the places in which we play and ensure products are ethically created. From local community initiatives to huge global projects, we expect hundreds of applications. It’s important that these are assessed for their impact so that funds can be carefully allocated, and more importantly actually invested correctly to impact change on an individual level.” said Andrew Denton.

The application process for the ISPO Impact Fund will open online in Spring 2026, with the awarded grants being announced in November at ISPO 2026 at RAI Amsterdam. 

When everyday materials are pulled, they stretch or elongate in the direction of the pull and become narrower in cross-section. We can also observe this property in two-dimensional textiles. Auxetic structures behave differently here. They have the striking property of not changing under tensile stress or even increasing their width or thickness. These properties are advantageous, for example, in protective textiles or textile filter media. The DITF are researching auxetic fabrics for various applications.

Previous research in the field of auxetic fabrics has focused on fiber composites. These structures are naturally very stiff. This makes them suitable for applications where the material only needs to be deformed once. Other research approaches have achieved auxetic properties at the yarn level that return to their original shape after tension. This negative transverse contraction can be quantified using Poisson's ratio, it assumes values from ±0 but also clearly negative values for auxetic structures. However, the effect is superimposed by other structural influences in the textile surface and is thus limited. For this reason, the DITF are researching a textile, flexible structure based directly on woven fabric that has reversible, auxetic properties.

To achieve these properties, special multi-layer fabrics have been developed that resemble the thickness structure of an hourglass in both the weft and warp directions. This geometry leads to a compression of the fabric under pressure, which is advantageous in protective clothing, for example. Impacts and other forces are significantly reduced. At the same time, the structure allows for excellent adaptation to different body shapes. Conversely, the fabric becomes wider or thicker under tensile stress. This can lead to a larger surface area or volume, as desired for filtration tasks.

The fabric structures developed at the DITF as part of the research project “Auxetic Weaving Structures” (1IF22730N) thus have an adjustable Poisson's ratio with negative values down to −2. The auxetic effect is not only effective once, but can also be reliably demonstrated under repeated stress.